Manor Vyazyoma. Pushkin Moscow region. Museum-Estate Big Vyazemy

Manor Vyazyoma(Russia, Moscow region, Odintsovsky district, Bolshiye Vyazemy), a little away from Mozhayskoye highway

How to get there? Directions public transport: With Belorussky railway station by electric train to Golitsyno station, then by bus No. 38, No. 39, No. 50 or fixed-route taxi No. 38, No. 39, No. 79 to the stop "Institute" (3rd stop) or 20 minutes on foot (~ 1 km). By bus or car: 44 km of Mozhayskoye Highway.

Driving directions

For the first time this name is found in documents of the 16th century, starting from 1556. Under Ivan the Terrible, Vyazemy was the last station before Moscow along the Great Smolensk Road. At the end of the XVI century. here was listed "a church with five peaks and a stone dam near the pond" - according to the Piskarevsky chronicler. At the same time, a belfry of the Pskov type was built, uncharacteristic for these places in its architecture. When the Vyazemy went to Boris Godunov is unknown; the first mention of this is dated to 1585-1586. Under Godunov, there was a boyar house in the village, numerous services, and orchards. But the village still owes its fame to the Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord.
The monumental, four-pillar temple on a high arched basement is extraordinarily beautiful. On the sides, the building has two aisles, completed with rows of kokoshniks and small domes. The facades are divided by shoulder blades into three strands and completed with semicircular zakomaras. Slit-like windows in profiled embrasures frame the archivolts. On three sides, the building goes around the promenade on the arcades. The temple is completed with canonical five domes.

At the end of the 17th century, or rather, in 1694, the estate in Vyazemy was granted by Peter I to his tutor, Prince B.A. Golitsyn "for salvation during the Streltsy revolt". The new owner did not consider Vyazemy as his main fiefdom, he gave the main attention to another granted estate - Dubrovitsy.
manor house was built "May 1st day 1784" by the great-grandson of B.A. Golitsyn - retired colonel Nikolai Mikhailovich. The strict architecture of the building is already somewhat archaic for the end of the 18th century. and seems more likely to belong to the time of Peter the Great. The outbuildings were built earlier than the main house: the left one in 1771, the right one in 1772.
locals They called the Golitsyn Palace - "The House of Spades Queen". The prototype of the heroine of the Pushkin story was Princess N.P. Golitsyna is a powerful woman who enjoyed exceptional influence at court, who lived to almost a hundred years of age. Big Vyazemy was owned by her son, Boris Vladimirovich Golitsyn. Thus, the "Queen of Spades", contrary to popular belief, has never been the mistress of Vyazem. But she often came here, exercising vigilant control over the property of her kind.
Now all the manor buildings have been repaired, in the main manor house - a museum, a temple - given to believers.

1. main house
2. Guest wing
3. Kitchen outbuilding
4. Church
5. Belfry
6. gatehouse
7. church fence
8. horse yard
9. Outbuildings in the horse yard
10. Monument to A.S. Pushkin
11. regular park

The plan of the estate in 1949 according to the measurements of E.P. Shchukina

Archival materials of the Vyazemy estate

Personalities

B.V. GOLITSYN, 1769-1813, son of Brigadier Prince Vladimir Borisovich and Princess Natalya Petrovna, born Countess Chernysheva, elder brother of the Moscow Governor-General, His Serene Highness Prince Dmitry Vladimirovich, born January 6, 1769; began service in 1781 in the Semyonovsky regiment, in which he served until 1796, to the rank of colonel. During the Polish War of 1794 he was awarded the Order of St. George 4th class. In 1798 he was promoted to major general, and the following year to lieutenant general. This was the era of the short-lived, but rich in surprises, reign of Paul I, in which extraordinary graces were often followed by an equally quick disgrace of the face, which even the day before enjoyed honors and influence. Prince Golitsyn, apparently, did not escape the fate of many: on March 24, 1800, he was dismissed from service, “for ordering to beat the drum in front of the house of the German consul in Riga Trompovsky for so long that the baby of this Trompovsky died of fright.” Upon the accession to the throne of Emperor Alexander, he was again taken to the service (March 26, 1801) and then successively made chief of the Pavlovsky Grenadier Regiment (1802) and infantry inspector of the Smolensk inspection. Participated in major battles Patriotic War 1812 and was wounded near Borodino; from this wound he died in Vilna on January 6, 1813; buried in the church of the village of Bolshie Vyazemy, Moscow province.
Prince Golitsyn was single, but he left two daughters "Zelensky", of whom one was married to Professor S.P. Shevyrev, and the other, Anna Borisovna, behind the Tver governor Bakunin. Princess Tat. You. Golitsyna, his brother's wife, "out of kindness, took these orphans to her and raised them, but they hid their existence from the old princess (the prince's mother," princesse moustache ")."
In Russian literature, Prince Golitsyn is known as a novelist, poet and critic. Having received an excellent home education, he excellently studied foreign, especially French, literature and was fluent in the language of Molière and Racine, as evidenced by a number of his literary-critical writings in French.
In Russian literature, Golitsyn wrote under the pseudonym Dm. Pimenov and published critical articles and poems in magazines of that time. In 1809 he published in Moscow, Duc de la Rochefoucauld's Moral Discourses, trans. from French", about which S. N. Glinka says: "He very successfully translated Rochefukold's thoughts and printed them under a false name."
According to the recall of the same Glinka, Prince Golitsyn was a truly Russian man in his soul and in his convictions. “I want to study in Russia in Russian,” he said, and be Russian. I read a lot in French and, to my shame, studied little Russian. Cato the Elder set to work on the Greek alphabet; some condemned him for it, but not me. Coming to the Russian teaching, I will say in Russian: "live for a century, learn for a century." He convinced Merzlyakov to teach him Russian literature, Kalaidovich - Russian history. Prince B.V. Golitsyn started Russian evenings at which everything Russian was read, and the owner of the house had the reputation of being stopped when he mixed French with Russian. As a magnificent dancer, he had the nickname "Boris-Yestris"; according to a contemporary, he was "very good-looking, smart and in his time received an education like a few."

(From a portrait painted by Isaba; property of Prince N. I. Obolensky, in Moscow)

V.V. Suslov Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord and belfry, in the village of Vyazemakh, Moscow province, Zvenigorod district

V.V. Suslov Monuments of ancient Russian architecture, c. 2, St. Petersburg, 1896

The designated village, Vyazemsky camp, is located 15 versts to the south-east. from the city of Zvenigorod, near the Smolensk tract, at the Vyazemka River (1). It belonged to Tsar Boris Fedorovich Godunov (d. 1605), and after his death it was assigned to the Palace Department.
At the end of the XVI century. there was a stone church in the name of Life-Giving Trinity, whose construction time remains unknown (2). In 1680 she was added to the Zagorodskaya tithe.
In addition to the Trinity Church, in the village of Vyazemakh were located in the XVI century. a temple in the name of Nicholas the Wonderworker with side chapels (Athanasius of Alexandria, Sergius of Radonezh and the noble princes Boris and Gleb) and the monastery of John the Theologian. Both temples were destroyed in the 17th century, along with peasant households, by Lithuania.
In cadastral books of 7139 - 7141 (1631-1633) - among other things, it is mentioned: "... yes, under the village of Vyazemoy, the sovereign's pond is a stone dam, ...".
Under 7154 (1646) it is indicated that “in the village of Nikolsky, on Vyazem, the Church of the Life-Giving Trinity, and in the limit the Church of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker, and other limits are empty without singing ...” (3).
According to the scribe books of the steward Ivan Afrosimov, and clerk Ivan Vasilyev 183, 184 and 185 (1675 - 1677) - “the village of Nikolskoye, Vyazema, too, on both sides of the Vyazema river, and in the village a stone church in the name of the Life-Giving Trinity, but at that the church has two stone limits w: the limit of the Annunciation Holy Mother of God, yes, the limit of the Archangel Michael was not consecrated, but near that church is the place that was the monastery of John the Theologian, and the church place of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker from the limits, ... ".
7202 (1694) March 23, by decree of the great sovereigns, the palace village of Vyazemy was granted to the boyar, Prince Boris Alekseevich Golitsyn, in the patrimony, and in the same year it was approved for him by a refusal book. At that time in the village, in addition to the Trinity Church, there was wooden church in the name of Nicholas the Wonderworker with all church utensils (4). In 1701, Prince Boris Alekseevich Golitsyn divided the estates between his children, Princes Alexei, Sergei and Vasily. The latter got the village of Nikolskoye - Vyazemy, where in 1702 there was a stone church in the name of the Transfiguration of the Lord.
After Prince Vasily Borisovich Golitsyn, the estate was owned by his son, Prince Mikhail Vasilyevich (d. January 13, 1749), and from him passed to his widow - Prince. Avdotya Mikhailovna with her children, Princes Nikolai, Vasily and Alexander. The latter in 1755 divided the estate among themselves, and the village of Vyazemy went to Prince Nikolai Mikhailovich Golitsyn (5).
We find some indications about the village of Vyazemakh, among other things, in the diary of Marina Mnishek (6), which says: “On May 2, the queen had her overnight stay in Mozhaisk, and Pan Voevoda in the village of Vyazeme, 6 miles from Moscow. This village belonged to the deceased Tsar Boris. It has a palace, quite extensive, surrounded by a front garden and dug in with a moat with slingshots. Near the palace is a stone church, very handsome; the icons and candlesticks in it are rich and of excellent workmanship.” Elsewhere it is described that “the palace is wooden, but beautiful and even magnificent. The door locks in it are gilded with pure gold; the stoves are green, and some are surrounded by silver bars.” In the diary of the Polish ambassadors Olesnitsky and Gonsevsky (16o6) it is indicated that “in Vyazem there is a stone church; its fence, with six sharp wooden towers, looks like a fortress” (7).
In the existing descriptions of the village of Vyazemy, it is strange that there is no mention of the Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord before 1702. The timing of its construction thus becomes conjectural. Local residents attribute the construction of this church to Tsar Boris Godunov and date it to the same time as the construction of the Ivan the Great Bell Tower in Moscow. This legend, judging by the general architectural forms and details of the temple, is quite probable, which is partly indicated by the crown preserved on the middle dome.
The Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord survived almost in its original form - only the staircase leading to the second floor of the church was destroyed. Based on local guidelines, it was open and led directly to the middle arch of the upper gallery. According to these instructions, the staircase in the drawings has been restored.
The church in question has the usual, in its time, structure; with two aisles, a sub-church and a two-story open gallery. It was built, apparently, all of white stone, at least the front sides of the church, with the exception of drums and zakomara of the main quadrangle, are lined with white stone. The upper parts are made of brick without cladding. It is difficult to say whether the church was originally covered with vaults, or, as at present, with a hipped roof. By analogy with other church monuments of the same period, we have to speak in favor of the first.
The exterior decorations have rather shallow profiles, which by their nature, like the depressions on the pilasters (above the gallery), indicate some influence in the construction of Italian architecture.
West Side the temple is somewhat elongated and therefore special arches are arranged under the snare drums. In the church aisles, the drums are each placed on four arches, some of which go in a north-south direction, while others (creeping) in the reverse order and rest on the cheek surfaces of the first. The door from the gallery to the northern aisle has been expanded. The walls separating the altar from the church, to which the iconostasis is attached, are low and look like a barrier. The construction of the church is quite correct in terms of symmetry and dimensional accuracy, which is relatively rare in ancient Russian churches.
A few sazhens from the temple, to the northwest, there is a very interesting stone belfry. It has been completely preserved in its original form, with the exception of the upper covering of the walls, which has not survived at all. The restoration of the roofs is shown in a perspective view of the building. The platform of the belfry and the stairs are supported by a duct vault that is open from the outside. From the platform of the belfry, stone gutters were carried through the railing. The belfry is made of bricks; horizontal cornices are made of stone slabs and their profiles resemble the architraves of the church itself. According to the general impression, the belfry seems to have been built simultaneously with the church. There are currently no bells in the belfry and the building seems to be somewhat neglected.

1. Semenov "Geographical and Statistical Dictionary" vol. I 1862, p. 585
2. We find an indication of this church in the parish books of the Patriarchal Kaz. Order for 7136 (1628) and in the census books from the city of Dmitrov, the Borisoglebsky Monastery of Archimandrite Pitirim. V and G. Kholmogorovs "Historical materials about churches and villages of the XVI-XVIII centuries", vol. III
3. Under 7164 (1655), it is said that "on December 8, the patriarch (Nikon) went to the sovereign's palace village of Vyazema to meet the sovereign ..."
4. It was stated above that the Church of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker was destroyed by Lithuania; here again it refers to the existing church of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker; whether the church was only destroyed or rebuilt, it is not clear from the file
5. V. and G. Kholmogorovs “Historical materials about churches and villages of the 16th - 18th centuries”, no. III, pp. 195 - 200
6. Ustryalov "The Legend of Contemporaries about Dimitry the Pretender"
7. Ibid p. 123 The aforementioned palace and towers do not currently exist

S. Veselovsky Manor Bolshiye Vyazemy

While living in Zakharov, the Pushkins often visited Bolshie Vyazemy located nearby. Here everything was covered with ancient legends about former owner these places to Boris Godunov. “They also point to ponds, as if dug at his command ... Probably, the young Pushkin was often told about the former tsar - the owner of the village. Thus, we meet, - notes P.V. Annenkov, - even in Pushkin's childhood with objects that were later revived by his genius.
One of the sources in the work of the poet on "Boris Godunov" was the "History of the Russian State" by N.M. Karamzin. It also mentions Bolshie Vyazemy. Reading about the "military fun" of False Dmitry that took place here, about the passage of Marina Mnishek through this area, Pushkin could supplement these descriptions with his memories of this area.

A visitor to Bolshie Vyazem can even now pay attention to a small column of gray stone standing near the church fence, which is interesting in its design. This is a monument on the grave of N.S. Pushkin, who died in Zakharov in 1807. The death of his younger brother is one of the painful impressions of the great poet's childhood. He mentions her in the outlines of the plan for the autobiographical notes he marked.
In Pushkin's time (since 1803), Bolshiye Vyazemy belonged to B.V. Golitsyn. Having received a brilliant education abroad, Golitsyn made a military career, in particular, fighting under the banner of Suvorov. However, in the reign of Paul, having risen to the rank of lieutenant general, he was forced to retire.

Having settled in Moscow, B.V. Golitsyn studies Russian history, is fond of collecting ancient manuscripts, spending most of the year in Bolshiye Vyazemy.
An English traveler who visited Moscow in 1805 writes: “We spent the evening at Prince. Boris Vladimirovich Golitsyn. Here I saw all your poetry: Zhukovsky, Kokoshkin, Merzlyakov and many, many other poets and prose writers of yours. The owner was unusually kind, affectionate and friendly with everyone... Sometimes I wonder where Moscow got so many friendly people from!” In 1811 B.V. Golitsyn hosted the well-known writer de Stael, who had fled from France, an opponent of Napoleon.

He was very close to I.I. Dmitriev, and A.F. Merzlyakov belonged to the circle of his friends and often visited Bolshiye Vyazemy. Merzlyakov awakened B.V. Golitsyn's interest in the monuments of Russian literature and folk literature. On the initiative of B.V. Golitsyna A.F. Merzlyakov at the beginning of the year began in his Moscow house for public readings on literature and theory fine arts. These readings were a great social event and the first public lectures in Russia. They were interrupted by the war with Napoleon.
Since the beginning of hostilities, B.V. Golitsyn left for the army. During the Battle of Borodino, he was under M.I. Kutuzov and, passing his orders to the troops, was seriously wounded. Ashes B.V. Golitsyn, who died from a wound in January 1813, was transported to Bolshiye Vyazemy and buried in a local church.
After the Battle of Borodino, the Russian army stopped in Bolshiye Vyazemy for the night. M.I. lived in the manor house. Kutuzov. In one of the letters, he says: “I am at Vyazem, but since there is no position here, General Bennigsen went back to look for a place where it would be more convenient to give a battle.”

The mother of B.V. Golitsyn, Natalya Petrovna, “The Queen of Spades”, repeatedly visited Bolshie Vyazemy. Indeed, as Tomsky tells in A.S. Pushkin, “went to Paris and was there in great fashion. People ran after her to see "La Venus moscovite" (Moscow Venus). Daughter P.G. Chernyshev, envoy to the English and French courts, N. P. Golitsyna spent her youth abroad, participated in court evenings. N.P. Golitsyna was immensely power-hungry and arrogant. As A.S. Pushkin, "she hosted the whole city, observing strict etiquette and not recognizing anyone by sight." At the same time, N.P. Golitsyna, according to her contemporaries, was “a great master of organizing her affairs”, significantly increased the family’s fortune, and the management of the Bolshiye Vyaz farm was more subordinate to her than to the owner of the estate B.V. Golitsyn.

On April 7, 1834, a month after the publication of the story, A. S. Pushkin wrote in his diary: “My Queen of Spades is in great fashion - the players pont for three, seven and ace. At court, they found a similarity between the old countess and Prince. Natalya Petrovna and, it seems, they are not angry ... "N.P. Golitsyna outlived the great poet by only a few months. She died in December 1837 at the age of 97.
Prof. M. Ya. Mudrov, an outstanding therapist, had close relations with the Golitsyn family. He often spent the summer at Bolshiye Vyazemy. Mudrov was one of the most famous doctors in Moscow and was considered an unsurpassed diagnostician. L.N. Tolstoy writes in "War and Peace" that, having visited the sick Natasha Rostova, "Mudrov determined the disease even better" than other celebrities of Moscow.

Bolshiye Vyazemy is located on the big Smolensk road. According to the famous historian I.E. Zabelin, this name means "in general, a tie or connection, the union of one locality with another, or, rather, one path with another." From time immemorial, this road has connected Moscow with the West, ambassadors and merchants passed along it. The last pit station before entering Moscow was located in Bolshiye Vyazemy. In the play "Dmitry the Pretender and Vasily Shuisky" A.N. Ostrovsky mentions the stay of the father of Marina Mnishek here.
A.I. drove along this busy road every summer in his youth. Herzen. Talking in "Past and Thoughts" about trips to Vasilyevskoye, he recalls how "a few versts from Vyazema, the headman of Vasilyevsky was waiting for Prince Golitsyn, on horseback, at the edge of the forest, and accompanied by a country road."

Bolshiye Vyazemy is also associated with N.V. Gogol, who in the summer of 1849 visited Professor S.P. Shevyrev and read to him the first chapters of the second volume of Dead Souls.

is not just a territory uniting several central regions countries: Vladimir, Kaluga, Moscow, Ryazan, Smolensk, Tver, Tula, Yaroslavl.

is the land of picturesque and truly Russian nature: coniferous and deciduous forests, clear lakes and rivers Fresh air and harmonious, familiar to us from childhood climate.

- These are slow-flowing rivers with wide floodplains, occupied by water meadows. Dense, dark, overgrown with moss, like enchanted spruce forests. Magnificent broad-leaved forests, consisting of huge oaks, ash-trees, maples. These are sunny pine forests and cheerful, pleasing to the eye birch forests. Dense thickets of hazel on a carpet of tall ferns.

And beautiful clearings strewn with flowers exuding intoxicating smells replace huge islands impenetrable thickets, where tall fluffy spruces and pines live their measured centuries-old life. They seem incredible giants, which slowly make way for uninvited guests.

In the thicket everywhere you can see old dried-up snags, which are so bizarrely curved that it seemed that there, behind a hillock, a goblin lurked, and a pretty kikimora peacefully dozes near the stone.

And endless fields, leaving either in the forest or in the sky. And around - only the singing of birds and the chirping of grasshoppers.

This is where the largest rivers of the Russian Plain: Volga, Dnieper, Don, Oka, Western Dvina. The source of the Volga is a legend of Russia, the pilgrimage to which never stops.

IN middle lane more than a thousand lakes. The most beautiful and popular of them is Lake Seliger. Even the densely populated Moscow region is rich the most beautiful lakes and rivers, sometimes not even mutilated cottages and high fences.

The nature of the middle lane, sung by artists, poets and writers, fills a person with peace of mind, opens his eyes to amazing beauty native land.

Famous not only for its literally fabulous nature, but also historical monuments. This - face of the Russian province, in some places, in spite of everything, even retained architectural appearance XVIII-XIX centuries.

Most of the cities of the world-famous Golden Ring of Russia are located in the middle lane - Vladimir, Suzdal, Pereslavl-Zalessky, Rostov the Great, Uglich, Sergiev Posad and others, ancient landowners' estates, monasteries and temples, architectural monuments. Their beauty cannot be described, you have to see it with your own eyes and, as they say, feel the breath of the deep antiquity.

But the most fruitful and happy for me was my acquaintance with the middle zone of Russia ... It took possession of me immediately and forever ... Since then, I have not known anything closer to me than our simple Russian people, and nothing more beautiful than our land. I will not exchange Central Russia for the most famous and stunning beauties the globe. Now, with a condescending smile, I recall youthful dreams of yew forests and tropical thunderstorms. All the elegance Gulf of Naples with his feast of colors, I will give for a willow bush wet from the rain on sandy shore Oka or beyond the winding river Taruska - on its modest banks I now often live for a long time.

Written by K.G. Paustovsky.

Or you can just climb into some remote village and enjoy nature far from civilization. The people here are very welcoming and friendly.

in one of the finest autumn days, we went to Bolshiye Vyazyomy, to look at the majestic Spaso-Preobrazhensky Church, the atmosphere of the manor house, the stable building and the landscapes surrounding it all. The origin of the word "Vyazyoma" is not exactly established. There are two main theories. According to the first, the word comes from the Slavic “viscous”, perhaps this is due to the viscous banks of the river flowing through the territory of the estate, bearing the name Bolshaya Vyazemka, similar to the estate. Another theory relates the word "vyazema" to the Finno-Ugric roots, characteristic of the hydronymy of the Russian North (the Kama, Lakshma, Lekshma, Padma rivers).

Monument to A.S. Pushkin. 1999
sculptor Yu.S. Dines, architect A.V. Klimochkin.

Manor park. Autumn.

Back in 1585, Tsar Fyodor Ioannovich granted Bolshie Vyazemy to the patrimony of Boris Godunov, and from the beginning of the 90s of the 16th century, Boris Godunov began large-scale construction in his new possession. At that time, a wooden palace, a boyar's house, numerous services were built in the estate, orchards were planted. By the end of the sixteenth century, a five-domed church in the name of the Transfiguration of the Lord with a belfry was built on the estate.

The whole complex of manor buildings was surrounded by a wooden wall with five towers. Additionally, the walls were reinforced with a moat. Thus, by the end of the 16th century, the entire complex was a well-defended, powerful fortress. Up to now fortifications the estates did not reach, it is understandable, the need for them disappeared a long time ago.

Church of the Transfiguration of the Savior in the village of Bolshiye Vyazyomy

In the era of troubled times, Bolshiye Vyazyomy became the residence of False Dmitry - here was his country palace and here, on the way to her fiancé in the spring of 1606, Marina Mnishek stopped with her retinue of many thousands. After her departure, a terrible fire broke out on the estate, destroying more than half of the village. In one of the fires of the Time of Troubles, the wooden palace of Boris Godunov also burned down.

Pricht's house

Church school. The building is modern.

Lower Golitsyn pond, on the river Bolshaya Vyazemka. Also known as the Sovereign's Pond.

After the coming to the kingdom of Mikhail Fedorovich, in 1618, the Vyazemy were assigned to the palace department. And in 1694, Peter the Great granted the estate to Prince Boris Golitsyn, "for salvation during the Streltsy rebellion." Despite the fact that the prince rarely came here, considering Dubrovitsy his main estate, the prince put a lot of effort into the revival of Bolshoi Vyazy. He restored the devastated Trinity Church, re-consecrated the church into Preobrazhenskaya, and rebuilt the palace. According to the diaries of Peter the Great, the emperor visited Bolshie Vyazyoma in 1701 and 1705. The manor house in Bolshiye Vyazemy was built on May 1, 1784 by the great-grandson of Prince Boris Golitsyn, retired colonel Nikolai Mikhailovich Golitsyn. The bas-relief on the pediment of the house speaks about the date of construction.

Further there will be many pictures of the interior decoration of the manor house, which is probably more correct to call a villa.

The War of 1812 did not cause much damage to the estate. After the Battle of Borodino, on the way to Moscow, the Commander-in-Chief of the Russian Army, Mikhail Illarionovich Kutuzov, stopped in Bolshie Vyazemy. A few hours after his departure, Emperor Napoleon arrived at the estate. Dracoon and infantry corps were placed in Golitsyn's palace. In memory of those days, a commemorative sign in honor of the stop of two armies in the Patriotic War of 1812.

Sign in memory of the stop in Vyazemy of two armies during the Patriotic War of 1812.

In 1882, a new owner appeared in the estate - the son of His Serene Highness Prince Dmitry Borisovich Golitsyn. Since its appearance, the estate has returned to its former livability. In 1908, the new owner arranges in the vicinity of the estate suburban village, under which a part of the land is allocated, separated by the railway. Over time, the current city of Golitsyno was formed on the site of the village. Dmitry Borisovich Golitsyn became the last owner of the Bolshie Vyazemy estate.
The changes that 1917 brought to Russia did not bypass the Golitsyn estate.

We rise to the second floor. There are many more pictures of the interior of the manor house.

In the autumn of 1918 and in the spring of 1919, more than 60 items of cultural and historical value were taken from the estate to the National Museum Fund, among which was an engraving depicting the family tree of the Golitsyn princes. The family jewels of the Golitsyn family were later transferred to the Armory. A unique collection of books, more than 30 thousand volumes, collected by Dmitry Vladimirovich Golitsyn, was distributed among the libraries. The estate was used as a colony for the homeless, then as a sanatorium for the old Bolsheviks, a school for pilots and paratroopers, a tank school, and an evacuation hospital. By the way, during the First World War, there was also an infirmary with 50 beds.

Former stable. It is currently undergoing restoration.

After the closure of the hospital, the zootechnical institute of horse breeding was located on the territory of the estate, which was personally supervised by Semyon Mikhailovich Budyonny, who repeatedly came to the estate. In 1952 he laid the foundation stone for the new building of the Institute.

School of Arts, formerly the building of the Institute of Horse Breeding.

Not far from Bolshiye Vyazy there is the Zakharovo estate - the former estate of the grandmother of the great Russian poet Maria Alekseevna Gannibal. Here, in the grandmother's estate near Moscow, the future poet for the first time saw the beauty of Russian nature, peasant round dances, heard folk songs, got acquainted with peasant life. These first childhood impressions shaped his life views. In these places near Moscow, he began to write his first poems.

The grave of Pushkin's brother - Nikolai, who died at the age of six.

Nearby are several other ancient tombstones.

The story of Alexander Sergeevich's love for Natalia Goncharova is also connected with Bolshoi Vyazemy. It was here, in the estate, at one of the balls hosted by Prince Golitsyn, that Pushkin first saw Natalya Nikolaevna Goncharova. The estate of Bolshie Vyazemy is found more than once in the works of Alexander Sergeevich Pushkin. It is believed that in the novel "Eugene Onegin" Zakharovo serves as a prototype for the Larin estate, and Bolshiye Vyazyomy became the basis for describing Onegin's estate. Now the estate of Bolshie Vyazemy, like the estate of Zakharovo, is part of the State Historical and Literary Museum-Reserve of A. S. Pushkin. In the Golitsyn Palace, among the interiors of the 18th-19th centuries. Golitsyn readings "History of the Fatherland" are held. You can get to the estate from the Belorussky railway station by train to the stop "Golitsyno station". About 1 km walk from the station. You can also get from the station by bus or fixed-route taxis. Do not try to get off at the station "Malye Vyazemy" you will get lost and get lost. By car, you need to go along the Mozhaisk highway. Before entering the village of Vyazemy, turn left before the bridge, and after about 200 meters turn right to the parking lot at the Church of the Transfiguration.

After a tour of the estate of grandmother A.S. Pushkin in Zakharovo, we went to the neighboring Bolshie Vyazemy. This is the former estate of the princes Golitsyn, which remembers Boris Godunov, Marina Mnishek, Kutuzov and Napoleon. A. S. Pushkin also often visited here, who visited the local church and used the rich library of the Golitsyns.

Museum of Boris Godunov in Bolshiye Vyazemy

We arrived just in time for two o'clock in the afternoon, when the duty tour begins. The inspection began with the restored building of the horse yard, which now houses the Boris Godunov Museum.

Posted by Nina and Natasha, travelers (@shagauru) May 11, 2017 at 1:06 PDT

Here we were told that in troubled times Marina Mnishek stopped in Vyazemy on her way to her fiancé Dmitry Ivanovich. Here she received gifts from him. After her visit, many royal buildings in Vyazemy burned down, including the wooden tower.

Manor Bolshie Vyazemy

From the horse yard we went to the Transfiguration Cathedral.

As I already said in the story about the Zakharovo estate, brother A.S. was buried near him. Pushkin Nikolai, who died suddenly at the age of six. Now you can get to the upper temple only during the feast of the Transfiguration of the Lord on August 19th.
During the time of Peter the Great, Vyazemy was considered a palace estate. In 1694, the emperor presented these possessions to his tutor, Prince Boris Alekseevich Golitsyn, who also owned the Dubrovitsy estate. Peter the Great visited these places twice. Bolshie Vyazemy belonged to the Golitsyn family until the revolution of 1917. The great-grandson of Boris Alekseevich Nikolai Mikhailovich Golitsyn, after many years of military service, received at his disposal a rather large estate of Vyazema. Here he decides to engage in agriculture and the arrangement of the estate. First in 1771 and 1772. two stone outbuildings are being built. One housed the kitchen, and the other was the people's quarters. Now one of them is under restoration, and the second was just recently opened for visits.

A garden was laid out between the outbuildings. Later, in 1784, a strict rectangular stone house with a gazebo was built on the high bank of the upper pond.

At the same time, a stone fence was being erected around the temple, and next to the main house a park was laid out with three radial alleys diverging in different directions.

Lindens, elms, larches and pines are planted in the manor park.

In addition, Nikolai Mikhailovich is building a greenhouse where apricots, plums and cherries are grown. Big Vyazemy were summer residence Golitsyn, he usually came here in May, and left in the late autumn. In addition to a well-deserved rest in the countryside, he tried to constantly replenish his knowledge in the field of horticulture and vegetable growing, read articles on the agricultural technology of cultivating various crops and immediately put this knowledge into practice. He also tried to improve the life of local peasants by building huts with glass windows and heating through a chimney. It was Nikolai Mikhailovich who laid the foundation for the famous library in Bolshiye Vyazemy and began to collect paintings and various art objects, which, after the revolution, went to the museums of our country.

In 1797 Emperor Paul the First visited the estate with his retinue. On the occasion of the visit of the august person in Vyazemy, a magnificent dinner was arranged in the main dining room.

Nikolai Mikhailovich had no children, so the estate passed to his brother, and then to his nephews Boris Vladimirovich and Dmitry Vladimirovich Golitsyn. Their mother, Natalya Petrovna, was an amazing woman for her time, and it is believed that it was she who served as the prototype of Pushkin's famous "Queen of Spades". Natalya Petrovna was born and lived a lot abroad, she was a very educated and prominent lady, one of Catherine the Great's favorite ladies-in-waiting. She considered the Golitsyn family to be the most noble and eminent and was very proud that she managed to intermarry with him by marrying. They say that her admiration for the surname was so strong that when she began to praise the granddaughter of Jesus Christ, she asked if the savior was from their Golitsyn family. Natalya Petrovna enjoyed the respect of all emperors and royal persons, who congratulated her on all important dates in life and showed her special reverence. She was also familiar with European monarchs, some even actively looked after her, because in her youth she was unusually beautiful. However, with age, she developed a mustache and beard, and Natalya Petrovna received the nickname "the mustachioed princess." Golitsyna was a very imperious and tough woman, she raised her children in strictness, and her son, the Moscow governor-general, even at an advanced age, having grandchildren, did not dare to sit down without the permission of his mother. The princess lived for 93 years and retained clarity of mind until the end of her life. Her room in the palace in Vyazemy is perhaps the most beautiful.

A.S. Pushkin was familiar with her, and from his friend, great-nephew Goli-tsyna, he learned the legend about the combination of three cards, which always made it possible to win. This combination was allegedly told to him by Natalya Petrovna. So the image of the "Queen of Spades" appeared in the poet's head.

One of her sons Boris Vladimirovich, judging by the portraits, was a rare handsome man, participated in the war of 1812 and was seriously wounded at Borodino.

After some time, never recovering from his wounds, he died, leaving two illegitimate daughters from some gypsy. His brother's wife sheltered the orphans at home, but carefully concealed their existence from the mother-in-law of Natalya Petrovna, who would definitely not approve of her son's relationship with a woman of dubious origin. Bolshiye Vyazemy after the war of 1812 passed to Dmitry Vladimirovich Golitsyn, whose monument can be seen in the manor park.

In addition, there is a memorial sign about the stop in Vyazemy of the Russian and French armies.

After the battle of Borodino, when our army was moving towards Moscow, the commander-in-chief M.I. Kutuzov. For accommodation, he chose the hall of a foreign library. In Vyazemy provided medical care mortally wounded Bagration. After the Russian army left the estate, it was occupied by the French. Emperor Napoleon stopped in the same hall of the library on the ground floor. Now in the recreated room on one of the walls there are portraits of the heroes of the war of 1812.

During our tour, there was a rehearsal of a symphony concert in the hall, which sounds especially harmonious within the walls of a noble estate. The French did not ruin the estate much, perhaps because Golitsyn was a Freemason, like Napoleon. And between the representatives of this movement there was a certain respect for each other. You can understand that the Golitsyns belong to Freemasons by the pattern on the stove tiles, I didn’t even know that this floral ornament, it turns out, is one of the Masonic symbols.

In the room in front of the foreign library, the reception room of the French emperor was recreated with portraits of his generals.

In each hall of the palace there are many interesting items and very beautiful furniture.

When we go up to the second floor, we already see a lot of stuffed animals on the stairs.

This is due to the fact that the last owner of Vyazem from the Golitsyn family, Dmitry Borisovich, was the head of the royal hunt until the revolution, after which the whole family emigrated. Bolshiye Vyazemy suffered the usual fate of most noble estates: first, a colony for homeless children was located here, then a sanatorium for party workers, an airfield and a tank school. During the Great Patriotic War, the Germans almost reached Vyazem, and our army placed a hospital in the main house. Only in the middle of the 20th century did they think about creating a Pushkin museum in Bolshiye Vyazemy and Zakharovo.

The restoration of buildings and the reconstruction of interiors is still ongoing, but even now this is a very interesting and beautiful place, associated with many of the biggest names and events in our history. In addition to the main exposition, historical costumes, porcelain and lace are exhibited in the palace.

Separate rooms are dedicated to the children's corner, where you can see toys, books and children's entertainment from the pre-revolutionary period.

Downstairs, we also examined the hall of the exhibition of wooden sculpture by the modern author G.Ya. Burkova.

Park and territory of Big Vyazem

After visiting two estates, we were so hungry and tired that we decided to have a little rest in a local buffet. But when we went out, we saw that the weather had improved, and we decided to take a little walk around the estate. We went to the ponds. On the other side you can see the bridge on the dam built by Boris Godunov.

Then we went to the parking lot, having cast a farewell glance at the majestic and so beautiful Transfiguration Church.