Everest first. Who was the first to conquer Everest? Financial side: how much does it cost to conquer Everest

A man lives in Nepal who conquered the “top of the world” 21 times, and amazing spiders live on the very top, which was once the seabed. The mountain is still growing, has not even two, but four official names and, by the way, is not the highest in the world.

(Total 10 photos)

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1. Himalayan spiders

Even high in the mountains, where there is barely enough oxygen to breathe, we cannot hide from the spiders. Euophrys omnisuperstes, better known as the Himalayan jumping spider, hides in nooks and crannies and the crevices of Everest, making it one of the highest living creatures on Earth. Climbers found them at an altitude of 6700 meters. These spiders are able to feed on almost everything that can fly so high. With the exception of some species of birds, they are the only living creatures that permanently live at such an altitude. True, in 1924, during a British expedition to Everest, a previously unknown species of grasshoppers was found here - now they are on display in the British Museum of Natural History.

2. Record climbing Everest - 21 times

Appa Tenzing, also known as Appa Sherpa, was able to conquer the top of the world 21 times. Its first ascent took place in May 1990, after three earlier unsuccessful attempts. Apparently, having learned all the secrets of climbing, Appa continued to conquer Everest every year - from 1990 to 2011. He repeatedly stressed that the effects of global warming are clearly visible in the mountains. Appa is concerned about the melting of snow and ice, which makes climbing the mountain more difficult, as well as the safety of his people, after his home village was flooded by a melted glacier. Appa made his last four ascents of Everest as part of ecological expeditions.

The conquest of Everest is not as romantic as it might seem at first glance. Thanks to the significant development of the tourism industry, there has been a significant increase in the number of ascents to the highest mountain in the world. So, in 1983, only 8 people reached the top, and in 2012, 234 people got there in just one day. It is not surprising that traffic jams and even fights happen when conquering Everest. So, in 2013, climbers Ueli Stack, Simon Moreau and Jonathan Griffith got into a fight with Sherpas after the latter asked them to stop climbing. The Sherpas accused the climbers of causing the avalanche. A dispute began, which, on emotions, turned into a fierce fight using stones. It came to death threats, but the climbers returned to the base camp, where the rest of their “colleagues” took their side. Even the Nepalese army had to intervene in the incident - then both sides of the conflict signed an agreement on its peaceful settlement.

4. 450 million years of history

Although the Himalayan mountains formed about 60 million years ago, their history begins much earlier. 450 million years ago, limestone and rocks were part of the sedimentary layers that were located below sea level. Over time, the rocks at the bottom of the ocean came together and began to move upward at 11 centimeters per year. Now, fossils of sea creatures can be found at the top of Everest. They were first discovered in 1924 by guide Noel Odell - thus it was proved that the top of Everest was once under water. The first rock samples from the world's summit were brought back by Swiss climbers in 1956 and by a team from America in 1963.

5. Controversy about height

What is the exact height of Everest? It depends on which country you are on. China has stated that it is equal to 8844 meters, while Nepal claims that it is 8848 meters. This dispute is due to the fact that China believes that the height should be equal only to the height of the rock, excluding meters of frozen snow from the total. Like it or not, it remains a double-edged sword, but the international community still includes snow in the height of the mountain. China and Nepal came to an agreement in 2010, finalizing an official height of 8,848 meters.

6. Everest is still growing

According to the latest measurements, both China and Nepal can be wrong about the height. In 1994, a research team found that Everest continues to grow at 4 millimeters a year. The Indian subcontinent was originally an independent landmass that collided with Asia to form the Himalayas. But the continental plates are still moving and the height of the mountains is rising. American researchers in 1999 installed special equipment that allows you to monitor its change. Their more accurate measurements could result in the mountain's official height being changed to 8,850 meters. Meanwhile, other tectonic activity is causing Everest to shrink, but the combined results still keep it growing.

7. Everest has several names

Most of us know the mountain under the names of Everest and Chomolungma. last name came from Tibet, which means "Divine (qomo) mother (ma) of life (lung)". But these are not the only names by which the mountain is known. So, in Nepal it is called Sagarmatha (“Forehead in the sky”), and it itself is part of the Nepalese Sagarmatha National Park. The mountain owes the name Everest to the British surveyor Andrew Waugh, who was unable to find a single generally accepted name even after carefully studying all the maps of the surrounding area and communicating with its inhabitants. Andrew decided to name the mountain after the geographer who worked in India, George Everest, the leader of the British team that first explored the Himalayas. Everest himself refused such an honor, but nevertheless, British representatives in 1865 changed the name of the mountain. Previously, it was simply called the 15th peak.

8. Traffic jams from people

Climbing Everest will cost you several thousand dollars, but the number of people who want to conquer the summit is steadily growing. In 2012, German climber Ralf Dujmovitz took a photograph of hundreds of people queuing up to climb. By the way, due to bad weather and in a long line Ralph had to turn back at one of the passes called the South Col. And on May 19, 2012, those wishing to climb to the top of the mountain were forced to stand in line for about two hours - 234 people climbed Everest in one day. However, on the same day, four people died during the ascent, which caused some concerns about the safety of conquering the summit, and railings were installed by specialists from Nepal to deal with traffic jams. Now the issue of mounting the stairs at the top is being discussed.

There are many photographs showing the beauty of Everest from every possible angle, but there are also back side medals: photos of the huge amount of garbage left behind by climbers. According to some estimates, there are about 50 tons of waste of various origins on Everest, and their number is growing in proportion to the number of visits. On the slopes of the mountain you can see used oxygen tanks, climbing equipment and other waste products of climbers. In addition, the mountain is "decorated" by the bodies of dead climbers - because of the difficulties in transporting them, the victims of an unfortunate set of circumstances remain lying on the slopes. Some of them serve as a guide for other climbers. So, Tsevang Palzhora, who died in 1996, "marks" a height of 8500 meters and even received the nickname "Green Shoes" - for his conspicuous bright green shoes. Since 2008, a special ecological expedition (Eco Everest Expidition) has been climbing the mountain every year, the purpose of which is to combat the pollution of Everest. At the moment, thanks to this expedition, more than 13 tons of waste have been collected. In 2014, the government of Nepal introduced a new rule that every climber must bring at least 8 kilograms of waste with him when descending the mountain - otherwise the $4,000 deposit will be lost. There is also the Everest 8848 creative project: its artists turned 8 tons of waste into 75 works of art, even using the remains of broken tents and beer cans. In this way they are trying to draw attention to the pollution of the mountain.

10. Everest is not the highest mountain on Earth

Despite the fixed title, in fact Everest is not the highest mountain in the world. Mauna Kea, an inactive volcano in Hawaii, rises "only" 4205 meters above sea level, but another 6000 meters of its base are hidden under water. When measured from the ocean floor, its height is 10,203 meters, which is almost one and a half kilometers more than Everest.

Everest is also not the most "convex" point on the planet. Dormant volcano Chimborazo in Ecuador reaches an altitude of 6267 meters above sea level, but is only one degree from the equator. Since our planet is slightly thicker in the center, the sea level in Ecuador is located further from the center of the Earth than in Nepal, and it turns out that Chimborazo is the highest point on Earth in terms of stereometry.

The highest point of Everest (or Chomolungma) is located at 8848 meters above sea level. Exploration of this mountain peak, located in the Himalayas, began as early as the 1850s, when English surveyors working in India were creating maps. By the way, the name "Everest" was given to the top of the British geographer George Everest, who led one of the first expeditions in that area. In the same period, it was established that Chomolungma is the highest mountain, although specific data on its height were constantly being adjusted, being in the range from 8839 meters to 8872.5 meters.

Representatives of the Sherpa people are the most frequent guests of Everest as expedition guides. They also own almost all climbing records. For example, Appa Tenzing has been on top of the world 21 times.

Naturally, such a peak could not but attract the attention of climbers from all over the world. However, many obstacles arose in the way of those wishing to conquer Everest, including a ban on the part of most countries in which there are climbing routes to Chomolungma, for foreigners to visit them.

In addition, the problem of breathing at high altitude presented a significant difficulty, since the air there is strong and does not saturate the lungs with oxygen in the required quantities. However, in 1922, the British Finch and Bruce decided to take a supply of oxygen with them, which allowed them to reach an altitude of 8320 meters. In total, about 50 attempts were made to climb, but none of them were successful.

The first conqueror of Everest

To date, more than four thousand people have conquered Everest, while about two hundred climbers have died on its slopes.

The base camp was set up at an altitude of 7800 meters back in March, but the climbers set out to conquer the summit only in May, having spent two months acclimatizing to high mountain conditions. As a result, Edmund Hillary and Sherpa climber Tenzing Norgay set out on May 28. In one day they reached a height of eight and a half kilometers, where they pitched a tent. The next day at 11:20 the highest peak of the planet was conquered.

Heroes of the expedition expected worldwide recognition: Queen Elizabeth II of Britain granted Hillary and expedition leader John Hunt a knighthood, and in 1992 New Zealand issued a five-dollar banknote with a portrait of Hillary. Tenzing also received the St. George Medal from the British government. Edmund Hillary died of heart failure in 2008 at the age of 88.

It is believed that Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Norgay Tenzing were the first to conquer Everest. But if you look into the details, you still cannot be absolutely sure of this. Perhaps the first to reach the summit of Everest were George Mallory and Andrew Irvine.

Top of Everest: who was the first in fact?

On May 29, 1953, Edmund Hillary and Norgay Tenzing became the first people to summit Mount Everest. Before going down to their group and celebrating the ascent, Edmund and Norgay set up a cross on the top of the mountain and had a bite of candy.

The couple were hailed as heroes all over the world, Edmund Hillary was knighted, and Tenzing Norgay was awarded the George Medal, one of the highest awards established by the British government.

What these two men have accomplished is truly fantastic and quite impressive, and this article does not in any way purport to challenge their accomplishment.

Edmund Hillary and Norgay Tenzing

However, Hillary and Norgay were far from the first to attempt to summit Everest. After Mount Everest was recognized as the highest in the world in 1856, the goal of many was to reach the top of this giant. After all, it's hard to deny yourself the feeling that you're on top of the world.

Many groups of climbers argued about the best way to climb, and in 1885 a book was published that told that it was possible to conquer the mountain, but very difficult.

Climbers planning an ascent knew firsthand the dangers posed by snow, faults and heights, and on such a high mountain as Everest, all these dangers can only be multiplied.

George Mallory and Guy Bullock

In 1921, George Mallory and Guy Bullock went on a British expedition to survey the mountain. It is worth mentioning that Mallory was the first European to set foot on Everest. They climbed to over 7,000 meters but were not ready for further ascent.

However, during this expedition, climbers saw a possible route from the North Col to the summit and recorded its coordinates for future expeditions.

In 1922, Mallory decided to follow this route again and climb above the North Col. But this time he fell under an avalanche, which almost killed him, but took the lives of seven Sherpas.

George Mallory and Andrew Irwin

After, in 1924, another expedition followed. Again, this was a British expedition, and again, Mallory's goal was to reach the summit, but this time with Andrew Irwin, who, unlike Mallory, was not familiar with the Himalayas and who lacked the experience of climbing the Himalayas. great heights. But nevertheless, Mallory continued to praise him, arguing that "you can rely on Irwin in everything."

Moreover, given the fact that Irvine was the most familiar with oxygen equipment, compared to anyone Mallory had ever had to work with. Andrew improved the equipment somewhat, making it simpler and lighter. George Mallory and Andrew Irvine set off to conquer the summit on an almost windless morning on June 8, 1924.

Noel Odell, the third member of their group, claims to have seen the pair leaving the camp towards the summit at 8168 meters, as well as in the area of ​​the Three Steps (a series of stone ledges) through which one can reach the summit.

This was the last time they were seen alive and one can only guess what happened there. However, there are some clues that will help lift the curtain on the mystery and clarify what happened to Mallory and Irvine.

Ice ax Irvine

In 1933, members of another British expedition found an ice ax buried in snow and gravel 230 meters from the steps. Given the fact that the 1933 expedition was the first since 1924, the ice ax must have belonged to Irvine or Mallory.

And indeed, after research and verification of equipment logs, it turned out that the ice ax belonged to Irwin.

How and why the ice pick, a priceless piece of equipment, was left far behind Irwin's body is anyone's guess.

Some argue that this proves that this is where Irwin and Mallory fell off, while others suggest that they planned to go down for this ice ax.

In 1960, a Chinese climber reported finding what he described as a body sitting upright in a rock shelter on the northeast ridge, suggesting that this was Irwin's body.

Again, few Europeans used this route, as access to this route was closed by the Chinese government in the 1950s. Therefore, any bodies of Europeans at that height must have belonged to members of expeditions made before the 1950s. However, this body, discovered by a Chinese climber, was never found again.

George Mallory's body

In 1975, another Chinese climber claimed to have found a body in old English clothes that began to crumble at any touch. In 1999, the body was found again and it was determined that the body belonged to George Mallory. Irwin's body has still not been found.

Irwin and Mallory's empty oxygen tank

Members of the 1999 expedition, in addition to Mallory's body, found several other interesting finds. Irvine and Mallory's empty oxygen tanks were found near the First Stage, suggesting a problem with the oxygen equipment.

With no oxygen, most likely, Irwin and Mallory were at a low ebb and unable to make sound decisions or do anything. Without using oxygen, the chances of injury increase several times.

Also interesting is how Mallory died. Serious rope wounds indicate that he fell, but managed to catch at the last moment, or was caught by Irvine. But what ultimately killed him were injuries from other falls, including a head injury.

It is absolutely clear that Mallory fell from a height, which led to death. However, the fall injuries weren't the only ones Mallory, or perhaps Irwin, had to endure.

The blood on Mallory's collar appeared, most likely due to soaking clothes from the wound. This suggests that he was injured before the fall. How this affected the ascent - no one knows.

Mallory's personal effects

But there's something else that makes us scratch our heads: Mallory's personal belongings. He was found with the expected set of items - his watch, rope, goggles and a list of equipment. But one thing, which later caused a lot of reflection, was missing.

Mallory took a photo of his wife with him to Everest, which he promised to leave on the top of the mountain, so that his wife could be with him on the top. But when Malory's body was discovered, there was no photograph in his pockets.

But one cannot immediately say that he reached the top and left it there, perhaps at some point he wanted to get a photo to look at it and the photo was blown away by the wind or completely lost. We can only guess.

Unravel the mystery of this ascent will help the body of Irwin and his camera, which he carried with him. Despite a large number of expeditions, Irwin's body was never found. Perhaps it will be found, but today Irwin is considered missing.

So what happened to Irwin and Mallory? Were they the first to summit Everest? As mentioned earlier, this is a mystery shrouded in darkness, which puzzles the entire climbing society to this day.

There is not enough evidence that they were at the top, but on the other hand, we cannot deny this version either.

One can only hope that one day Irwin's body will be found and his camera will tell us what really happened there. For now, it remains a big secret.

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Everest - the highest mountain in the world

Everest (or, as it is called in Nepal, Chomolungma) rises to 8848.43 meters above sea level. Climbing Everest is a real dream for every climber, but, no doubt, also a very dangerous adventure, since a huge number of people died trying to conquer this peak. The highest point on our planet is known today to every schoolchild. But the history of the discovery of Everest and the fate of many brave people who tried to conquer it often remain a mystery to the general public.

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The shocking truth

Resembling in shape a pyramid that has risen many kilometers above sea level due to the movement of lithospheric plates, Everest rises above Asia right on the border of China and Nepal. This peak is rightfully considered one of the most magnificent in beauty, but at the same time, tragic and dangerous places in the world. Its rocky silhouette invariably attracts numerous brave and courageous conquerors who try to reach the summit at the cost of great efforts, and sometimes even at the cost of their own lives. Unfortunately, many climbers have remained forever among the snows and rocky gorges. Over 235 climbers and local residents died while trying to conquer the highest peak the globe(although the exact number of those who died today remains unknown, because not all of them officially registered their ascent). The difficulty lies not only in the increased atmospheric pressure and rarefied air, which cannot be breathed for a long time, but also in the danger of the route itself. Nevertheless, despite all these difficulties, many people continue to risk their lives in order to spend a few minutes on top of the world. There is something in it that irresistibly attracts brave climbers ...

How much does it cost to climb Everest?

This question is very popular today. Everyone knows that high-altitude expeditions require not only serious physical and tactical training of the participants, but also considerable investments. The average price is about $30,000 if you go by yourself or with your organized and independent group. travel companies offer their own expeditions, and the price for their services is about $60,000. The price of a VIP level expedition, which includes permanent Internet access and telephone connection, is often higher than $90,000. In general, it all depends on the guide and the quantity and quality of services included in the package. However, when choosing an instructor and a company, it is important to consider not only the price and image of the company. It is always best to study this issue on your own and very carefully. In particular, it will not be out of place to pay attention to whether the package includes the cost of the flight and the services of Sherpas. The fact is that sometimes you have to pay for the participation of local “helpers” on the spot when you are already at the base camp, therefore, in order to avoid unexpected surprises, it is always better to study the details in advance.

Why so expensive?

The government of Nepal imposes a mandatory fee on all foreigners who wish to climb Mount Everest. Depending on the size of the group and the time period, the fee can vary from $11,000 to $25,000.

Many readers will probably be indignant: “Where are these prices from??!” But, on the other hand, judge for yourself: even with such fees on the slopes - tens of tons of garbage; when climbing Everest, more than 200 people died ... Imagine what would happen if this fee was not charged - the number of climbers, of course, would increase dramatically, and the peak would begin to look like something terrible.

Another important point is the correct selection of the necessary equipment, which also costs a lot of money. The cost of guides, instructors and sherpas often depends on the size of the group, so prices change from year to year.

Everest Facts

1. Everest, part of the chain Himalayan mountains, is 29,035 feet (8848 meters) high.
2. A sedentary volcano Hawaiian Islands, Mauna Kea, ranks first in the ranking of the highest mountains in the world, not counting sea level.
3. Everest is more than 60 million years old, it was formed due to the tremors of the Indian tectonic plate in the direction of Asia. Due to seismic activity in the region, Everest is about a quarter inch (0.25") taller every year.
4. The peak is located right on the border line of Nepal to the south and China, also known as Tibet, to the north.
5. Chomolungma (translated from Tibetan) literally means "holy mother of the universe."
6. To keep warm, climbers are encouraged to use oxygen at the summit. As for food, it is good to eat a lot of rice and noodles even before the ascent, since you will need a serious supply of energy for such an expedition. On average, climbers burn over 10,000 calories daily, and this number doubles while climbing to the top; throughout the expedition, its participants lose from 10 to 20 pounds of weight.
7. In the entire history of attempts to conquer the summit, it is officially known that 282 people (including 169 Western climbers and 113 Sherpas) died on Everest from 1924 to August 2015. If we talk about the causes of death, then 102 climbers were injured while trying to climb without the use of additional oxygen. Most of the bodies to this day remain in the snow and gorges, although Chinese officials reported that many bodies were removed. Snowfalls and rockfalls are the most common cause of death, followed by avalanches in second place and altitude sickness in third place.
8. The youngest person ever to reach the summit is an American high school student named Jordan Romero. He made his ascent at the age of 13, on May 23, 2010 (he climbed the peak from the north side).
9. 14 climbers managed to cross from one side of the peak to the other.
10. Wind speeds at the summit can reach 200 miles per hour.
11. On average, it takes about 40 days to complete the ascent. The fact is that the human body needs some time to get used to being at such an altitude above sea level and acclimatize immediately before climbing.
12. The first climbers who managed to climb the peak of Everest without the use of additional oxygen in cylinders were Reinold Messner and Peter Hubler (Italy) back in 1978. Later, 193 climbers who followed suit also managed to reach the summit without resorting to additional oxygen (this is 2.7% of all ascents to the peak). There is 66% less oxygen in every breath at the top of Everest than in a breath taken at sea level.
13. To date, there have been about 7,000 ascents of the peak of Everest, more than 4,000 people have participated in all known routes.
14. The oldest climber who managed to conquer the mountain was Miura Yuchiro (Japan), who made the ascent at the age of 80 on May 23, 2013.
15. There are 18 different official climbing routes to the summit of Everest.
16. The first woman to summit Everest was Japanese climber Janko Tabei (1975).
17. In order not to fall off rocks and glaciers, climbers use nylon ropes with a diameter of 10 millimeters. Special metal spikes (“cats”) are put on the soles of the boots to prevent slipping. In addition, ice axes are used, which can stop a possible fall on a rocky and icy surface. In terms of clothing, climbers opt for thick suites that are filled with goose feathers.
18. Sherpas are the collective name for people who live in western Nepal. Initially, several centuries ago, they migrated from Tibet. Today, they help climbers prepare for the ascent by helping carry food, tents, and other supplies to intermediate camps located above the base camp.
19. Climbers begin using oxygen tanks at 7,925 m (26,000 ft). but in this way only 915 m (3000 ft) of difference is achieved in how they feel. In principle, at an altitude of 8230 m (27,000 ft), a person would feel like being at 7315 m (24,000 ft) above sea level, which, in fact, would not be significant difference in the well-being of climbers.
20. Peak temperatures can drop as low as -62C (80F below zero).

Story

Everest appeared on the earth's surface about 60 million years ago. The mountain has quite long history"the first climbers", starting with an unsuccessful attempt, which was made back in 1921 by the British expedition of George Mallory and Guy Bullock. Much later, in 1953, the highest peak of the Earth was nevertheless conquered by a brave bunch of Italian climbers Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. The history of ascents and new achievements continues to this day. But the highest peak in the world is not only vantage point or a serious challenge for climbers, but also a home for the highlanders, the Sherpas, who have lived there for over 500 years. This small nation is the best guides and porters for tourists and professionals who decide to defy fate and climb the highest and most difficult peak of our planet to climb.

Where is Everest located?

Everest is not only the highest mountain, it is also the highest point located on the border of two countries. The mountain is located between the territories of China and Nepal, but its peak is in China, or rather, in the Tibet Autonomous Region. Everest is part of the Himalayas and is only one of the nine peaks of this mountain range. Interestingly, the Himalayas are made up of the thirty-nine highest high peaks in the world, so Everest has many younger "brothers". Together they form a fence between the plateaus of the Tibetan and Indian subcontinental plates.

The entire mountain system is located in South Asia and passes through Pakistan, Bhutan, Tibet, India and Nepal. This was the reason that Everest has several names. In Tibet it is called "Chomolungma", the Chinese version of the name is "Shèngmǔ Fēng". The locals in Darjeeling call it "Deodungha" which translates to "Holy Mountain". For many years it was believed that the highest peak of the world is in the Andes, and only in 1852, a mathematician from India was able to open the world to really the highest mountain.

How did he get his name?

The highest mountain was discovered by George Everest, who served as the Indian General Secretary, in 1841. Since then official name, which was given to the highest peak of the Earth, came from the name of the discoverer. Prior to that, in different countries the peak was called differently, based on local languages ​​and dialects. But since the highest point of the planet should have a single and understandable name for everyone, the name of the one who officially discovered it became recognized at the international level.

What country is Everest in?

At various points in its history, Everest has been considered part of both China and Nepal. After the annexation in May 1959, relations between Nepal and China became absolutely friendly, and the fact that the border between the countries is at its peak highest mountain world, is a symbolic confirmation of this. Therefore, theoretically, the peak that is closest to space does not belong to one particular country, but is the common property of Nepal and China. Every tourist who decides to at least look at Everest from the outside, not to mention climbing to the top, can choose at his own discretion which side is more convenient to do it. But it is fair to say that the view from Nepal is much more beautiful, and climbing is an order of magnitude easier.

What is the height of Everest?

Imagine that you live in a world where there is no Mount Everest, it has not yet been discovered, and at school the teacher tells you that the highest mountain is the one called Kanchenjunga, or Dhaulagiri, for example. Even in the 19th century, many were convinced that the highest point on our planet is anything but Everest. Only in 1852 was it confirmed that Everest is the highest point on our planet. The height of the mountain is 8848 meters above sea level and increases by 4 millimeters annually due to plate movement. In addition, earthquakes in Nepal can move Everest and even change its height. So, modern scientists continue to argue that none of the measurements of the height of Everest, either from the Chinese or from the Nepalese side, is correct. Chomolungma continues to grow. The continental plates do not stand still, they are constantly pushing Everest higher and higher.

Curiously, the exact height of the mountain is still a matter of dispute. Back in 1856, when British explorers first measured the height of the peak with a theodolite, it was recorded as 8,840 m (or 22,002 feet). Currently, the official height of Everest is 8.848 m (29.029 ft). To imagine how high Everest is, it is enough to understand that its highest point is located almost at the level of a fighter plane flight. Therefore, it is not at all surprising that the slopes of this mountain are not inhabited by animals and birds due to high pressure and rarefied air. However, Everest is home to one rare species of spider that hides in the crevices of the mountains. This insect feeds on other frozen insects that get to the top with winds and snow masses.

Neighborhood

The Everest massif consists of several individual peaks such as Changse at 7,580m (24,870ft), Nuptse at 7,855m (58,772ft) and Lhotse at 8,516m or 27,940ft. At the time of the discovery of these peaks, it was very difficult to measure the height of a mountain peak with accuracy. At that time, special devices called theodolites were used to measure height, the weight of which was more than 500 kg (1.100 pounds), and the forces of 10-15 people were required to move such a device. Several attempts were made to measure the exact height of Mount Everest, and only in 1949, shortly before the first ascent, was it finally possible to obtain accurate data.

The nearest place where people live is Rongbuk, Buddhist temple which was founded in 1902. It was reconstructed not so long ago after being completely destroyed in the 70s of the last century, during civil war. Currently, this place becomes the last living quarters on the path of climbers to the top of the world. In Rongbuk, you can stay in a small hotel and even dine in a tiny restaurant.

About height

For almost three hundred years, the highest known point on Earth was Chimborazo, a volcano in the Andes. Its height is "only" 6.267 meters. In the 19th century, this version was destroyed, as the new champion became known to the world - the peak of Nanda Devi in ​​India with a height of 7.816 meters. It may seem ridiculous, but today Nanda Devi only ranks 23rd in the list of the highest mountains in the world. But there is a reason that the listed peaks were indeed the highest points of the world known at that time: after all, Nepal, which is called the roof of the world for a reason, was closed to everyone for a long time.

Everest is officially one of the most polluted mountains in the world. due to the lack of infrastructure and the presence of a constant influx of tourists. Numerous groups leave behind a huge amount of garbage, ranging from simple food bags to oxygen tanks and old equipment, which are stored and accumulated for decades on the slopes of this mountain, considered sacred to local residents.

Scientists keep finding remains marine life, which were fossilized in the structure of rocks 450 million years ago, at a time when the surface of Everest was not yet a peak or mountain, but remained part of the seabed. The Himalayas formed only 60 million years ago. The record holders for visiting the peak of Everest are two Sherpas: Apa Sherpa and Tashi Purba, who managed to climb the peak 21 times, having the opportunity to admire the alpine landscape of the Himalayan mountains from the highest point.

Mortality

Unfortunately, Mount Everest turned out to be a very difficult place to climb and is rightfully considered one of the most dangerous peaks on Earth. The danger lies in the record low temperatures ah and air with a low oxygen content, frequent landslides and avalanches that took many lives of local residents and climbers who decided to overcome this height. The greatest tragedy in the history of Everest occurred in 2014 when a huge avalanche killed 16 local Nepalese guides. It happened near one of the base camps. The second largest was the tragedy of 1996, when 15 climbers did not return from the ascent.

These people died for various reasons, some due to the use of inappropriate equipment, others due to lack of oxygen in cylinders or unexpected changes. weather conditions which made it impossible to return to the base camp. The third in terms of the number of victims was the unsuccessful expedition of 2011, when 11 people remained forever in the snows of the Himalayan mountains. All of them are buried in the snow and ice of Everest. Avalanches and rockfalls are the most common causes of death on the slopes of Everest.

Everest base camps

For those who decide to climb Everest, there are, as mentioned earlier, two options - start climbing from China or follow the Nepalese route. In order to get used to atmospheric pressure and acclimatize at altitude, two main base camps are equipped. In any of them, each tourist will be able to spend the necessary amount of time for the body to get used to the new conditions, since acclimatization in this case will help prevent altitude sickness. Both camps have doctors who can advise climbers and assess the health of each before climbing. Staying for some time at the base camp helps to avoid health problems associated with pressure changes.

The southern camp is located on the Nepal side, and the Northern camp is on the Tibetan (Chinese) side of Everest. Despite the fact that the northern camp in summer days can even be reached by car, the camp on the south side is becoming more and more popular. And, of course, all the inhabitants of the surrounding villages, who were previously engaged in agriculture and animal husbandry, are now fully focused on providing visitors with everything they need. They help in transporting things and supplies to the upper intermediate checkpoints, in cooking, and offer various products. In addition to the main intermediate camps on the way to Everest, there are several others located both before and after the main two. They are intermediate stations on the way to conquer the top of the world.

The supply of food and equipment to the southern base camp is carried out by Sherpa porters, since transport links in this region are not possible. Food, medicine and everything needed is delivered with the help of yaks, local beasts of burden.

ascent

If you think that everyone can climb Everest, you just have to really want to, you are very mistaken. Firstly, it is very expensive, about $60,000. Climbing the highest mountain in the world is not just a fun adventure. It is important to understand that this is not an ordinary cozy tourism, but a challenge and the risk of mortal danger. Every year, several tourists die in an attempt to conquer this rocky peak: someone falls into an abyss or a gap between glaciers, someone cannot withstand high temperatures, and someone falls ill with altitude sickness.

Naturally, for such a difficult test, you will need serious preparation and a huge amount of special equipment: shoes, clothes, tools and gadgets. Also required large group experts and assistants for the proper organization of the trip and many years of experience in climbing other peaks. But if we talk about the process itself, then it is, of course, unusually exciting. Regardless of which route you choose, it is recommended that you travel with a Sherpa companion. Today, the region is home to approximately 3,000 Sherpas, all of whom are top-notch guides, helpers, and porters, as well as mountain climbers. In short, the Sherpas are a nation of highlanders. If you've seen the famous photograph of the first human ascent of Everest, you'll understand how amazing, indescribable with words, the feeling at the top can be. As Tenzing Norgay admitted, "I wanted to jump, dance, these were the best feelings in my life, because I stood above the whole world."

The most popular season to climb Everest is spring. Autumn expeditions are less popular. By far the most popular way to climb Everest is through a guided expedition. This ensures that there is a professional with the group who knows the most reliable route to the top. In addition, you can rely on his knowledge and experience even in the most unpredictable situations, he is a reliable support and support for the group. The guide will be able to explain to the participants everything they need to know before starting the ascent, help them choose necessary equipment and will check the physical condition, as well as the health status of the participants, in advance.

Plan

The very first step in climbing Everest is to begin proper preparation, including getting serious experience climbing other peaks. These are very important requirements, since such an expedition is quite risky and dangerous and requires certain skills. It starts in one of the base camps (on the southern or northern slope), which is selected depending on the route and climbing plan. So, to get to the base camp, located at an altitude of about 5,000 m (16,000 feet) above sea level, participants will need about a week. Here they can talk to experienced guides, check their physical condition and get some rest before climbing Everest. Then, for an additional fee, climbers can resort to the help of Sherpa mountaineers, who will help bring the necessary equipment, food and oxygen cylinders to intermediate camps.

How long does it take to climb Everest?

Of course, climbing to the top of the world does not mean walking along picturesque snow-covered slopes. For less trained climbers and for those who have at least a minimal risk of developing any disease, the acclimatization period for medium height(in the base camp at an altitude of 5100 meters above sea level) in some cases it can reach 30-40 days. For a whole month you will be surrounded by Sherpas and your companions until your body gets used to the pressure of the atmosphere and the lack of oxygen. Only then can you continue climbing. On average, when it comes to tourist expeditions, the duration of the entire ascent (from the moment you arrive in Kathmandu to being at the highest point on the globe) will be about 60 days. When everything is prepared, it will take about 7 days to climb from the base camp to the summit. After that, another approximately 5 days will be spent on the descent to the base camp.

First person to summit Everest

Although Edmund Hillary was the first person to set foot on the top of the world, many attempts to climb Everest were made long before him. Back in the twenties, a special expedition of the newly created Everest Committee developed the most optimal routes lift. It is not surprising that the members of this expedition were the first to set foot on the summit. sacred mountain”, what Everest was for the locals. And yet two very different people, Sir Edmund Hillary and Nepalese climber Tenzing Norgay, jointly made the first successful ascent to the summit with south side and finally they were able to find themselves where no human foot had ever set foot before them.

In 1953, when this outstanding event finally happened, China closed Everest to any visits, and the world community allowed no more than one expedition per year. In conditions of low temperatures, constantly tormented by strong gusts of wind, Tenzing and Hillary, despite the need to stay in one place for several days in a row, were still able to conquer the highest point on the planet. Edmund Hillary dedicated his achievement to the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II of Great Britain, and it was best gift in honor of a landmark event in the UK. Although Hillary and Tenzing spent only 15 minutes on the mountaintop, those 15 minutes today are comparable only to the first steps on the moon.

The youngest person to ever reach the summit is an American eighth grader from California. He was only 13 years old on the day of the ascent. A resident of Nepal, a 15-year-old girl named Min Kipa Shira, became the second in the ranking of the youngest climbers who managed to conquer Everest. Her ascent was crowned with success in 2003. The oldest man to summit Everest was 80-year-old Miura Yuchiro from Japan, and the oldest woman was Tamae Watanabe from Japan, who climbed at the age of 73.

Video

The 1953 expedition, with which Hillary and Tenzing climbed, ended with a 15-minute stay on the mountain. Norgay left candies in the snow, and Hillary stuck a cross given to him by Army Colonel John Hunt, leader of the British expedition.

Tenzing Norgay (left) and Sir Edmund Hillary (right) during their historic ascent of Mount Everest in 1953. (Associated Press).

Sir Edmund Hillary and fellow climbers in 1953 during the first confirmed ascent of mountain peak Everest. ( New York Times).

Sherpa Tenzing Norgay stands on top of Mount Everest on May 29, 1953 after he and his partner Edmund Hillary became the first people to reach the highest point on Earth. (Edmund Hillary/Royal Geographical Society via Associated Press).

From left to right: Colonel John Hunt, Tenzing Norgay (known as Tenzing Sherpa) and Edmund Hillary. They rejoice, having returned to England, as the first people who conquered Everest. (George W. Hales/Hulton Archive via Getty Images).

Sir Edmund Hillary (left) and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay smile after climbing Mount Everest in 1953. This photograph is undated and was used as a handout.
Nepalese Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and his friend Sir Hillary, who passed away on January 11, 2008. He was called a great philanthropist and friend of Nepal. Hillary, who, together with Tenzing Norgay, conquered Everest in 1953, spent most of his life by helping the Sherpa communities in Nepal, including by setting up projects to build hospitals and schools. (Norgay Archive via Reuters).

Facilities mass media photograph the statues of Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, timed to coincide with the 60th anniversary of the successful ascent of Everest. Kathmandu, Nepal, 29 May 2013.
Hillary and Tenzing were the first people to set foot on the summit of Mount Everest on May 29, 1953. (Niranjan Shrestha / Associated Press).

Kancha Sherpa, member of the 1953 expedition that included Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary. They conquered the top of the highest mountain in the world. Amelia Rose Hillary, granddaughter of New Zealand mountaineer Edmund Hillary, and a crowd of well-wishers near a horse-drawn carriage during the Everest Summitteers procession during the Everest Diamond Jubilee Celebration. Kathmandu, 29 May 2013.
On May 29, Nepal celebrated the 60th anniversary of the first ascent of Mount Everest. (Prakash Mathema/AFP/Getty Images).

Aerial view of the center, the western shoulder of Everest and Mount Nuptse (right 8848 m), May 15, 2003 at the Nepal-Tibetan border. (Paula Bronstein/Getty Images).

Buddhist prayer flags flutter in strong winds blowing towards the snowy peaks of Mount Everest (center) and Lhotse (right), near the village of Tengboche on the way to Everest in Nepal, May 14, 2003.
A team of 12 climbers from the Indian Army, Royal Nepalese Army and Nepalese Sherpas scale Lhotse on Tuesday, setting a record for the most climbers on a technically difficult peak in one day. (Gurinder Osan / Associated Press).

Drinks, rice and flour are offered at the end of the puja ceremony to the climbing team on April 7, 2003 at Everest Base Camp in Nepal.
Puja is a Buddhist ceremony performed to bless the group and their equipment for finding a safe mountain pass. Buddhist prayer flags radiate from the center of the pole. (Erich Schlegel/The Dallas Morning News via Associated Press).

British mountaineering photographer Jonathan Griffith ascends the headwaters of Mount Everest on April 27, 2013. (AFP/Getty Images).

An aerial view of Mount Everest in a range of about 140 km (87 miles), northeast of Kathmandu, January 14, 2011.
The government has said it plans to double the number of foreign visitors who come to Nepal each year to one million tourists in 2011. (Prakash Mathema/AFP/Getty Images).

Members of the E3 99 Everest Extreme Expedition climb a 19,500-foot glacier crevice on Mount Everest in Nepal on May 13, 1999.
They check vital signs and collect Additional information about hypoxia and acclimatization. (Associated Press).

Climbers pass through the treacherous Khumbu Icefall, which lies on their way to Everest near Everest Base Camp. Nepal, 18 May 2003.
The safety of climbing to the top depends on the weather. Many teams, including a joint Indo-Nepalese, Korean and Japanese team, have abandoned their attempt to climb the world's highest peak. (Gurinder Osan / Associated Press).

View of the Khumbu Icefall, which is the first obstacle on the way to climbing Everest. View from Everest Base Camp in Nepal, May 17, 2003. (Gurinder Osan / Associated Press).

International climbers descend the Khumbu Icefall on their way back from Base Camp on May 22, 2013 after climbing Mount Everest.
May is the most popular month for climbing Everest due to more favorable weather. Earlier this month, 80-year-old Japanese Yuichiro Miura became the oldest conqueror of Everest. And Raha Moharrak is considered the first woman from Saudi Arabia, which also climbed to the highest peak. (Pasang Geljen Sherpa/Associated Press).

Aerial photography of Everest Base Camp. Big tent city, full of climbers at an altitude of 18,000 feet, which is located at the foot of Everest on the border of Nepal and Tibet. May 15, 2003.
A record 1,000 climbers plan to summit Mount Everest to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the first successful ascent of the world's highest mountain. (Paula Bronstein/Getty Images).

A golden glow at the top as the sun sets behind the tallest mountain in the world, which is located in the center of the frame. View from Kalapathar, on the way to Everest, Nepal, November 15, 1983.
Thousands of climbers and mountain lovers gathered in Kathmandu to take part in various celebrations on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the first ascent of Everest, which was made by Edmund Hilary and Tenzing Norgay on May 29, 1953. (Bikas Das / Associated Press).

Japanese professional skier and mountaineer Yuichiro Miura, aged 80, advances against the backdrop of an icefall towards base camp C2 on the way to the highest peak in the world, Mount Everest. Nepal, 16 May 2013. (European Pressphoto Agency).

80-year-old Japanese skier Yuichiro Miura stands on top of Mount Everest. He became the oldest person to climb highest mountain in the world on May 23, 2013.
Miura, who has already climbed the peak when he was 70 and 75 years old, reached the peak at 9:05 am local time, according to officially confirmed data. (MIURA DOLPHINS Co., Ltd via Associated Press).

Japanese climber Yuichiro Miura displays a victory sign upon arrival at the airport after climbing Mount Everest. In Kathmandu on May 26, 2013.
Miura, who has had four heart surgeries, reached the summit of Everest last Thursday and became the oldest person to scale the world's highest mountain. He first climbed Everest in 2003 and repeated the feat five years later. Miura broke the record of the previous oldest climber, Min Bahadur Sherkhan of Nepal, who reached the summit at the age of 76 in 2008. (Navesh Chitrakar/Reuters).

Two people (lower left) are standing next to campground at the foot of Earth's highest peak, Everest. Tibetan autonomous region, Chinese People's Republic, October 13, 2011.
Tibet is a vast land with harsh land, arid, brown plateaus and majestic mountain ranges. Religion is an integral part of life for Tibetans, so many take part in religious pilgrimages hundreds of kilometers to visit the region's monasteries and sacred places. (Barbara Walton / European Pressphoto Agency).

Members of an expedition climbing Mount Everest (locally known as Chomolungma) make a slow climb up the mountainside on May 19, 2005. (Suolang Luobu / Associated Press).

This image shows mountain guide Adrian Bellinger of the Alpenglow Expedition on May 18, 2013 in Nepal. Climbers head to the summit of Mount Everest, in the Khumbu region of the Himalayas.
Last Wednesday, May 29, 2013, Nepal celebrated the 60th anniversary of the summit of Mount Everest by honoring the climbers who followed in the footsteps of Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. (Adrian Ballinger/Alpenglow Expeditions via Associated Press).

Mount Everest or Sagarmatha (top of frame) is the highest peak in the world at 8848 meters. A bird's eye view of the 6,812-meter Ama Dablam mountain (below), on April 22, 2007. (Desmond Boylan/Reuters).

Climbers advance towards the summit of Everest on May 18, 2013 in the Khumbu region of the Nepalese Himalayas.
In Nepal, the celebration of the 60th anniversary of the conquest of Everest was held on May 29, 2013. (Adrian Ballinger/Alpenglow Expeditions via Associated Press).

Pictured are unidentified climbers descending Everest on May 19, 2009.
A group of top Nepalese climbers are planning a risky expedition to clean up Everest. Decades of climbing the most high peak the world took their toll. “Everest is losing its beauty,” says 30-year-old Namgyal Sherpa. “The top of the mountain is currently littered with oxygen tanks, old prayer flags, ropes and abandoned tents. For several years, at least two corpses have been lying here.” (AFP/Getty Images).

Tents glow like clouds at dusk at Everest Base Camp in Nepal on May 22, 2003.
Many teams postponed the climbing attempt due to bad weather, but some managed to reach the top of Chomolungma from the south side. The Indian-Nepalese army team was the first to rise this season on Thursday morning. (Gurinder Osan / Associated Press).

Climbers climb the mountain range just below Hillary's Step on May 18, 2013 as they make their way to the summit of Everest in the Khumbu region, in the Nepalese Himalayas.
Sixty years ago, Sir Edmund Hillary and his partner Tenzing Norgay became the first people to set foot on the summit of Mount Everest, the highest point on earth. It happened on May 29, 1953. (Adrian Ballinger/ALPENGLOW EXPEDITIONS, via Associated Press).