Girvas Volcano is an amazing mystery of Karelian nature. Girvas Karelia: how to get there? Story

Girvas Volcano is a relatively new landmark of Karelia. It was discovered only in the sixties of the XX century and named after the nearby village of Girvas. The history of the volcano is interesting and unusual.

When you come to admire the volcano, you will not find the usual heap with a vent here. All this is left in the distant past. Three million years ago in these places there were mountains more than six kilometers high and on one of the mountains there was an active volcano. Erupted lava flooded the district for kilometers around, and the "bombs" erupted by the volcano, according to some scientists, could reach modern Petrozavodsk, and this is more than 80 km!

About a million years ago, the volcano fell asleep and the subsequent geological processes almost razed it to the ground. The mountains turned into hills, and where there was a volcano, the Suna River carried its waters.

In the 19th century, these places belonged to the Olonets province, and the most famous sights were three waterfalls: Girvas, Kivach and Poor threshold. In addition, the Girvas waterfall was the largest and most beautiful - several cascades had a total height of 15 meters! And today, only one name remains from the Girvas waterfall!

In the 30s of the 20th century, the construction of the Palyeozerskaya hydroelectric power station began on the Suna River and the river was blocked by a dam, as a result of which the river became so shallow that the Girvas waterfall dried up completely and even the Kivach waterfall lost its former strength. But where the river dried up, scientists discovered the remains of a paleovolcano - the oldest found on Earth. So instead of one lost attraction, people received another.

You will be able to see the explosion pipe, the side slope of the left cone and the huge crater of the volcano, stretching to the northeast. The dimensions of the vent are amazing - 50x20 meters! everything in the area is covered with solidified lava flows interspersed with columnar and spherical fragments. These spherical fragments up to a meter in diameter are "unexploded" volcanic bombs.

Solidified lava flows total area more than a thousand square kilometers in size and stretch from Girvas to Svyatnavolok.

The frozen streams look simply bewitching due to the fact that each has its own shade of color - from green to black.

Having admired the frozen lava field enough, you can climb up to the forest and look at the remains of an ancient volcano from the top, even now this is a strong sight!

There are a lot of mushrooms in the forest. If you have at least a plastic bag, then it will not be difficult to fill it with mushrooms completely. If desired, here you can even find a glade for barbecue equipped with a table and a fire.

But what about the Girvas waterfall? - you ask - After all, they are talking about him now! Indeed, people come to the Girvas waterfall even today, only this is a completely different waterfall, man-made.

Now the Girvas waterfall is called the spillway of the Paleozerskaya hydroelectric power station. The spillway occurs infrequently, only in those years when the water in the reservoir rises especially high and the hydroelectric power station cannot cope with the powerful flow. Therefore, each such return is a real gift. Half an hour before the spillway, a siren begins to howl loudly, notifying everyone who is close to the old channel of the imminent descent of water.

When the gates of the dam open, a bewitching spectacle unfolds before the audience - a huge mass of water rushes down with a roar, falling from several steps. The highest of them is about 15 meters, and the total height difference reaches almost 30 meters. Compared to this cascade, the famous Kivach seems like a small threshold.

If you come here by car, you can go to one more place - an abandoned military airfield. It was active during the Great Patriotic War. Since 1960, the airfield has been used as a reserve for strategic aviation, and since 1992 it has become abandoned and unguarded.

The runway is in good condition. Its length is 2800 meters. Here you can drive a car and feel like a Formula 1 pilot.

To find the airfield, you need to go from the Kola highway and after 5 km towards the village you need to look for turns to the left. You can turn on any, they all lead to the airfield. In the photo above, from the red mark, the runway is clearly visible. On an SUV you will definitely pass in any weather. It is better to drive a passenger car only in dry weather.

How to get to Girvas volcano

You can only get here by car. If you drive from Petrozavodsk, then you need to move along the P21 (“Kola”) highway towards Murmansk to the sign for Girvas, turn off the highway and go to the village. In the center of the village, turn left. When the village houses are left behind, the bridge over the Suna and the Paleozerskaya hydroelectric power station will appear. After passing through the bridge, you will see a parking lot on the left, and the Girvas volcano on the right!

You can visit Girvas with organized tour. Below we offer a list of bases that organize excursions to the Girvas volcano.

What do we imagine when we hear the word "volcano"? Here my imagination instantly draws huge mountain with a snowy peak and maybe even a light, barely noticeable haze. And if you think a little more, it will already be a crater, looking into which, we see a lot of red, seething and, of course, very hot.

You will not see any of the above when you come to Girvas. Even close there are no such landscapes. Not now. And many, many years ago they were. It is for these "past merits" that this place is called - a volcano. My advice to you: in order to fully experience the difference between "then" and "now", you need to pack up and go see everything with your own eyes.

A bit of history

It is alleged that about 3 billion years ago everything was in the best volcanic traditions at this place: liquid flame, heat, tall mountains. It is said that the last eruption of the now subdued volcano occurred about 2 billion years ago. But what it was! According to some estimates, lava flows flowing from the vent of the volcano reached the place where Petrozavodsk is now located. And this, for a second, is a distance of 70 kilometers! So this "old man" was not a tiny volcano. The volcano was named after the village of the same name, located nearby. In Karelian hirvas means "moose". Apparently, they are found there (or were found) in abundance.

Previously, there was also a waterfall at this place, in comparison with which the Kivach waterfall is just a small threshold.

How to get to Girvas volcano

As I said, the volcano is located about 70 kilometers from Petrozavodsk. The most convenient means of transportation in this case is a car. Of course, I messed up quite a bit. local forests until I found the right turn, but now I can tell you exactly how to get there:

• By car. Everything is simple here. You need to go to the Kola highway and follow it towards Murmansk. A little more than an hour later you will see a sign with the inscription "Girvas". Turn left along it (this is if you are coming from Petrozavodsk or Kondopoga). Then another 10-15 minutes of the road, after which you find yourself in the village of Girvas. In it you reach an intersection where shops are located on all sides (this is an easily recognizable place), and at this intersection turn left. Again you drive for 10-15 minutes, leave the village and almost immediately after the exit you see a bridge and hydroelectric facilities. That way. Cross the bridge to the other side, to the left of it there will be a parking lot, and to the right is just the object of our interest: a volcano - a waterfall. The cost of visiting (it is also the cost of parking) is 100 rubles per person. In the second picture, the scheme of movement by car through the village

• On public transport. direct bus"Petrozavodsk - Girvas" no. You can get on those passing by, but there are two points: you will walk from the bus stop to the volcano (and this is very far away), and the buses do not run every day (that is, the option “we arrived there, but there is nothing to leave from there” quite likely). But if you decide - the ticket will cost within 200 rubles per person.
• You can take a taxi. The cost for one way will be up to 1000 rubles.
• Or buy a tour. Most likely, this will be an excursion not only to the volcano: also capture the Kivach nature reserve, Martial waters and a couple of other objects. Such a tour will cost about 1700 rubles. per person, and this already includes transport and all entrance fees. You can, of course, search and find a tour that shows only the Girvas volcano. Then with transport and entrance tickets it will cost up to 1100 rubles. per person. But it seems to me that if you got out on an excursion, it is better to visit to the maximum.

Opening hours and cost of visiting Girvas volcano

We can say that it is always open. Because even just having reached there by car and standing on the bridge, you already see it. And no one will forbid you to enter the territory either. But if you are for a more orderly approach, then parking for cars (and on its territory there is also a souvenir shop-cafe and a toilet) is open from 10 to 18 every day. The cost of parking one car will be 100 rubles. per passenger (if you are 4 people in the car, then you will pay 400 rubles).

No further additional contributions will be required from you. After paying for parking / visiting, you can immediately go to the volcano - waterfall. There is no specially equipped entrance to it, you just go down the path and it is in front of you.

We go - we look

I would suggest you visit this place Wear comfortable walking shoes and loose-fitting sportswear. And this is not because you cannot walk there in ordinary shoes (you can even walk in heels if you really want to), but because when you arrive there and see these open spaces in front of you, you cannot contemplate them from the side. You are drawn to go down to the very lava flows, jump from one to another, sit on the top of the third, jump over a mini-lake and finish your detour by climbing a hill along a narrow path. And in order to fully experience this place, it is better to come already prepared.

Volcano - waterfall

By the way, did I say that this volcano is also a waterfall? I wrote "was a waterfall". Now, this is not entirely accurate. In our time, he also periodically recalls the past when the floodgates of a nearby hydroelectric power station are opened to drain excess water. And then quiet and quiet place turns into a "volcano of passions."

Local residents (more precisely, one resident, he is also a caretaker) said that a couple of days ago there was one of those transformations of the volcano into a waterfall, when the hydroelectric power station once again opened the dam to dump excess water. It only remained to hope that the workers of the hydroelectric power station somehow notify the caretaker of their intentions, so that the walk along the volcano would not end for tourists with sudden rafting with overcoming the rapids. But so far there have been no such cases.

You need to understand that the way it looks now is not at all like a volcano. No mountains or eruptions. Rather, it is lava that once flowed out of the vent and, having hardened, remained there forever. It looks simply fascinating due to the fact that each layer has its own shade of color from black to green.

As I said, getting there, you cannot look at it from the side and immediately go to the lava field. And roam, roam. You jump from one place to another, look at the shades, watch the reflection of the trees in the water, sit down on one of the hillocks and listen to the forest.

After exploring the lava field, you climb a steep path into the forest. Having reached the top, once again, now from a height, you take a look at what is left of the once active volcano and understand that even in this form it looks very impressive.

In the forest incredible amount mushrooms. You don't have to put in any effort to notice them. They are here, right next to each other, to the left and to the right of the path. For local residents very lucky with such a mushroom variety. So, if you accidentally happen to have a bucket with you (well, or something remotely resembling it), then the trip can also be combined with a trip for mushrooms. And if it’s already completely full program”, then with eating barbecue. There are excellent clearings in the forest for this, one of them even with a real wooden table.

In general, there is plenty of room for imagination. The main thing is to come, and there already on the spot it will be clear what the soul lies more for.

Girvas airfield

This is, so to speak, as a bonus. Abandoned military airfield. A former military facility is located here, so it is not marked on the maps. It is located in the nearby village of the same name. Finding the airfield is a bit difficult (that's right, the military hid it on purpose). The landmark is this: if you drive from the Kola highway, then after 5 km towards the village you need to look at the turn to the left (there will be several of them). In principle, you can turn into any, it will still lead to the airfield.

On the map, up from the red "pin" the runway is very clearly visible. No need to wait for an asphalt or gravel direct road to the airfield. These are, rather, forest paths, trodden under the car. You can drive a Jeep in any weather. It’s better not to take risks on a passenger car and travel when it’s dry.

The airfield was built in 1940, and in 1941 runway reconstructed. It was active during the Great Patriotic War. Since 1960, the airfield has been used as a reserve for strategic aviation based in Besovets. And since 1992, it has become abandoned and unguarded.

Generally perfect place. The runway is in good condition. Its length is 2800 meters. Guess who's using it now? Of course, those who like to drive a car and feel like a Formula 1 pilot are all there. Well, for learning to drive a car is also a good platform.

I could not deny myself the pleasure of rushing forward / backward along the strip with the breeze. I must say that the speed is 130 km / h on the highway and the same speed, but on runway feel quite differently. On the track, you don’t seem to feel it, but on the strip there is a real feeling that you are going to take off.

Where to eat near Girvas volcano

Unfortunately, there is no food in the usual tourist form (such as a cafe or restaurant) near these tourist sites. But there are shops, and if the weather allows and there is a desire to have a snack in nature, this can be realized. Shops, I mean those that are located in the village itself. The prices there are very reasonable, but the range - you know, people in the village to all sorts culinary delights not accustomed - as simple as possible. True, sometimes freshly smoked trout is brought to stores, which is bred right there in the trout farm. So, if you have any special requests for products, grab a meal to go.

If you are interested in souvenirs, then in the parking lot you can find their minimum set. Basically, these are fridge magnets made of wood (in the form of an elk, a bear, or some other inhabitants of the fauna), as well as clay plates with views of Karelia. Magnets from 120 rubles, plates from 350 rubles.

Conclusion

If you ask my opinion: is it worth devoting one of the days of your trip to a trip to Girvas? I will say unequivocally - yes. Another day to breathe fresh air, wander through the forest, listen to the silence and just change the familiar cityscape for something else.

Karelia is a country of lakes and rivers. A place of calm and silence. It is not customary to talk about volcanoes here. They are not here in the usual way. And there are no earthquakes. But still, one volcano in Karelia deserves attention - Girvas volcano. Do not panic - the volcano has long gone out and does not pose a danger. This is perhaps the oldest attraction Karelia.

The ancient volcano Girvas in Karelia is one of the most beautiful sights. Photo — Ilya Danilov.

The track "Kola", it is also "Murmanka". 100 km from Petrozavodsk to the north. Kondopozhsky district, turn left to the village of Girvas and five kilometers along the road. Habitual, typical Karelia. Only here, among these ordinary Karelian pines, an amazing natural landmark is hidden. Ancient volcano Girvas and waterfall, exceeding the famous Kivach in power and strength. And if you can look at the volcano all the snowless season, then the waterfall reveals its secret only once a year. However, first things first.

He lived so long ago that it is even difficult to imagine - 3-1.5 billion years ago. He was active, then faded, and in parallel with this formed the local landscape, superimposing his lava flows on an even more ancient foundation. And today, the Girvas volcano is surrounded by lava layers, the thickness of which is about a hundred meters. In the canyon, all this, by the way, can be seen. For example, the vent, the explosion tube and the side slope of the left cone. The mouth of the volcano is elongated to the northeast. Well, the lava itself spread as much as a thousand square meters. So the lava field is quite huge.

Photograph of the ancient Girvas volcano in the early 20th century. Photo: Prokudin-Gorsky, processing and storage: B. Gotchatsky, National Library USA.

is an object of unique beauty. Here is solidified lava, and rocks, And sand dunes, and thick pine forests. In one place converged different eras, different eras. Here antiquity itself borders on our world.

It is all the more interesting that the volcano was discovered not so long ago - in the 60s of the last century, when the construction of a hydroelectric power station began here. During the construction process, the water level in the river dropped significantly, opening up an amazing canyon.

Thanks to the Suna River. It is her waters that fall on Kivach. She keeps many secrets not only on the waterfall sung by poets. It is on the Sun that two other once most famous Karelian padunas are located - Girvas and Poor threshold.

Poor threshold in Karelia - one of the 3 waterfalls of the Suna River

Once these waterfalls were considered the pearls of the Olonets region. Two powerful streams fell from a height of 10 meters. A little lower, the flow overcame two more smaller thresholds. Overall Height cascade was 15 meters.

But man came and turned nature back. In the 30s of the last century, two hydroelectric power plants were built on the Suna - Kondopoga and Palyeozerskaya. The dam drained the old riverbed. Girvas waterfall ceased to exist. Kivach also became smaller. People received electricity, Karelia lost the greatest natural water monuments, gaining at the same time a new one in the form of a volcano.

But to replace the old waterfall in Girvas a new one came - designed for a planned discharge of water. Yes, such that the Kivach field seems like child's play. But here's the trouble - the famous Girvas Padun comes to life no more than once a year - and then for a week or two, when the water in the reservoir rises especially high, and the Paleozerskaya hydroelectric power station cannot cope with the powerful flow. At the same moment, the Poor threshold, which lies downstream, comes to life. The water riot continues for two weeks. And then again the waterfall falls asleep, like a dragon from ancient fairy tales.

The author of these lines managed to attend the awakening of the waterfall in the spring of 2016. The spectacle is fantastic. Tons of water fall into the abyss. One threshold, the second threshold, the third threshold - there is no end to the elements. Many tourists specifically plan their trips for the opening of the gateways of the Paleozerskaya hydroelectric power station. The leaders of the hydroelectric power station are sympathetic to the desire of lovers to admire the waterfall and announce this spectacle in advance.

But today Girvas famous not only for the volcano and the waterfall. Here passes summer festival off-road sport with the same name - "Girvas". Athletes on ATVs, off-road vehicles and homemade cars first overcome sand dunes, and then rocks and frozen lava of an ancient volcano. They fall, rise, overcome water obstacles, stones - in general, both sports and art.

And Girvas was chosen by filmmakers. Filming took place here two years ago. new version the legendary film "The Dawns Here Are Quiet". Remember those moments when foreman Vaskov with his beautiful fighters guarded the Fritz? In film ancient volcano Girvas with its lavas and stone flows is shown from all sides.

IN last years the corresponding infrastructure has also appeared here - there is parking, toilets, places for garbage, benches and tables for a bivouac. Today, the ancient volcano Girvas and the waterfall of the same name rightfully bear the title of one of the main natural monuments Karelia. In our company you can always order.

The text was written by Evgeny Belyanchikov, especially for the Golden Ring of Karelia. The material uses photographs of Alexander Shishov, Vitaly Tarakanov, Evgeny Belyanchikov.

Anyone who has been to Karelia knows that in this area, literally at every step, there are amazing natural attractions. If you want to see something really unforgettable and unusual, then your path should run through the small village of Girvas. It was he who gave the name to the amazing attraction, which happy accident opened only in the 60s of the last century. You may have heard of her too. Although it is unlikely, because this place is still a scientific find, little studied by experts. So, get acquainted - Girvas volcano in Karelia.

Girvas - a volcano or not?

Having visited the area of ​​​​Karelia where the Girvas volcano is located, you cannot immediately understand that under your feet there is a crater that once erupted tons of molten magma and threw dangerous ash boulders for several kilometers. Today there is nothing left of this elemental power. Except perhaps a layer of a lava field, barely visible from above, which stretches for several kilometers and goes into the hills, which in some places received the Suna flows and became part of its shores.

The Girvas volcano in Karelia is one of the oldest on the planet. It was active more than three billion years ago, after which it selflessly went out. Nature through rains, strong wind gusts, change temperature conditions decided to wipe it off the face of the earth by destroying all actual reminders of the volcano. That is how, over time, the crater and the mouth of this mighty giant disappeared.

A group of researchers managed to detect its presence, who began to study the Karelian landscapes before the construction of the hydroelectric power station. As a result of the blocking of the channel, the water level in the Suna decreased, which led to the exposure of part of its banks. This is how the researchers came across dormant volcano. Later, it was given the name Girvas, as well as the village located nearby.

Scientists equipped expeditions several times to study the Girvas volcano in Karelia in more detail. They managed to find out that he belongs to the category of so-called " Icelandic volcanoes". Once upon a time, Girvas was a real natural disaster, as it regularly erupted hundreds of thousands of tons of volcanic magma, destroying all life within a radius of several tens of kilometers. Despite the fact that its crater and vent have been destroyed, the lava field remains. The researchers claim that it covers an area of ​​tens of square kilometers and had a powerful influence on the formation of the local flora and fauna.

The depth of lava fields in some places reaches hundreds of meters. Moreover, the researchers say that they are heterogeneous in structure. In certain areas, so-called "volcanic bombs" were found. They are an accumulation of gas, placed in a shell of solidified lava mass.

Girvas Volcano: how to get there safely and quickly?

Every year, the number of tourists who want to see such an unusual natural attraction with their own eyes is increasing. Therefore, the question becomes natural, how to get to the Girvas volcano, what transport is suitable for this?

There are several options:

1. The longest and most unpopular one is to get to the Kondopoga railway station, from where it is another 50 km to get by car or public transport to the village of Girvas. From here - a few more kilometers to the volcano itself.
2. The most preferable and safe is to start moving from the Karelian capital - Petrozavodsk. You need to leave the city in the direction of Murmansk along the P21 highway, then, following the signs, turn to the village of Girvas. Having reached its center, turn left and move until you see the bridge over the Suna. Having moved to the other side, you can leave the car in the parking lot, and on the left you will see the Girvas volcano, “coming out” of the river.

Karelia is famous for its many rivers. Especially noteworthy is the beautiful Suna, which flows in its central part. The river surprises with its wayward character. Its calm areas, which can be considered lakes, are suddenly replaced by seething rapids and waterfalls, of which there are more than fifty. It is on the Sun that the three once most famous Karelian padunas are located - Girvas, Kivach and Poor threshold.

Once upon a time, the Girvas waterfall, like both of its "brothers", were considered the pearls of the Olonets province. The cascade consisted of two powerful rapids falling from a height of more than 10 meters. A little lower, the flow overcame two more smaller thresholds. The total height of the cascade was 15 meters.

The environs of Girvas were very picturesque: high walls of rocks framed the banks of the Suna River in these places. Especially beautiful views opened from a small island in the shape of a turtle, which was located on the site of the first cascade. It was very easy to get to it by crossing a small channel.

A fragment of the Girvas (old) waterfall in the photo of the famous Russian photographer S. M. Prokudin-Gorsky. 1916

In the 30s of the last century, the construction of two hydroelectric power plants began on the Suna - Kondopoga and Palyeozerskaya. A dam was built across the course of the river, which led to the almost complete drainage of the old channel. Girvas ceased to exist, turning into a waterfall that does not exist. By the way, because of the same dam, Kivach also subsided.

Girvas waterfall (old). Girvas dam and the dry bed of the Suna.

However, sometimes old waterfall Girvas wakes up. Unfortunately, this doesn't happen often. The spillway occurs only in those years when the water in the reservoir rises especially high and the Paleozerskaya HPP cannot cope with the powerful flow. Therefore, each such return is a real gift. To get it, a fair amount of luck is required, because there is no advance warning about the upcoming spillway. Only half an hour before it, a siren begins to howl loudly, notifying everyone who is close to the old channel of the imminent start-up of water.

At the same moment, the Poor threshold, which lies downstream, comes to life. Kivach also becomes a little more powerful.

How did the new Girvas appear? After the construction of the dam and the formation of the Girvas reservoir, a canal was built to Paleozero. At the very end of this canal, the Paleozerskaya hydroelectric power station was built, and next to it, a dam with gates for idle water discharge. Streams of water washed away a huge volcanic rock covered with sand and formed a new waterfall.

Girvas waterfall is new.

1. Paleozerskaya HPP;
2. Spillway;
3. Pioneer channel;
4. Elements of an ancient volcano;
5. Parking for tourists, cafe, souvenir shop.

Today, the old waterfall is increasingly forgotten and Girvas is called the spillway of the Paleozerskaya hydroelectric power station. However, it is well deserved. The new waterfall Girvas surpassed its grandfather in all respects.

But there is one but... Most time, the spillway is closed and the waterfall is dry, which can be seen in satellite image higher.

When the gates of the dam open, a bewitching spectacle appears before the admiring spectators. A huge mass of water rushes down with a roar, falling from several steps. The highest of them is about 15 meters, and the total height difference reaches almost 30 meters. Compared to this cascade, the famous Kivach seems like a small threshold. It is especially good to observe the grandiose phenomenon from a cliff that stretches down along the entire waterfall.

For most of the year, the Girvas (new) waterfall is a stone slope, along the steps of which a small stream runs, turning into small lakes in some places. And yet, even in this state, Girvas is attractive for tourists. After all, about three billion years ago, a liquid flame raged at this place. There was a volcano, which today is called Girvas. It was discovered only in the middle of the last century, when the flow of water washed away sandy deposits and the ancient volcano appeared before geologists in all its glory.

It is hard for us to imagine, but many years ago this region of Karelia was covered with mountains over 6 kilometers high. One of them was active volcano, which erupted regularly. Last eruption According to scientists, it happened about 2 billion years ago.

Over time, the terrain has changed. The glaciers that came here "ironed" the mountains, smoothing them. The Girvas volcano was no exception, and therefore those who expect to see high volcano with a crater in the middle, disappointment awaits.

Today, only accessible fragments of the volcanic apparatus can be seen. These are the explosion pipe, the side slope of the left cone and the vent of the volcano, stretched out in the direction to the northeast. Its dimensions, 50x20 meters, are amazing. The Girvas "canyon" is filled with solidified lava flows interspersed with columnar and spherical fragments. The latter are called volcanic bombs, they reach a meter in diameter, they have gas voids inside.

Some geologists claim that volcanic bombs escaping from the Girvas vent reached the place where Petrozavodsk is today. Perhaps this is true, because the grandiose lava flows cover a total area of ​​more than a thousand square kilometers. The lava field, which includes fifteen flows, extends from the paleovolcano to Svyatnavolok. The thickness of the lava layer in some places exceeds one hundred meters.

Girvas (both the volcano and the waterfall) is beautiful at any time of the year. During the spillway, it strikes with the power of the water flow, the rest of the time it gives you the opportunity to touch one of the oldest volcanoes on the planet. The locals believe that this place has special energy, which gives him a paleovolcano. Tourists know about this and try to come here to get a boost of healing energy, which is enough for more than one year.

Photos: down along the Girvas waterfall.