Vasco da Gama, Portuguese navigator of the era of great geographical discoveries. Great navigators left Lisbon

See, understand, enjoy, love!

Colors, shapes, aromas, tastes add up

into vivid pictures in memory, so that later we

could look at them all my life"

About the country, its history and people

Portugal is one of the oldest countries in Europe with rich history. Portugal is a charming country that can be called a quiet European province, where virgin nature serenely coexists with a developed tourist infrastructure, and respect for national customs coexists peacefully with pan-European traditions.

The country of great navigators Portugal is located in the western part of Iberian Peninsula. In the south and west it is washed by the waters of the Atlantic Ocean, on land it borders on Spain. Portugal includes the Azores, located in the Atlantic Ocean about 1,450 km west of Lisbon, and the island of Madeira, 970 km southwest of Lisbon, which are autonomous regions of Portugal. The area of ​​the country, together with the islands, is 92.39 thousand square meters. km.

The name of the country comes from the name of the Roman settlement of Portus Cale at the mouth of the Douro River. In 1139, Portugal became an independent kingdom from Spain. At that time, it occupied only the northern third of its modern territory. In 1249, the last Muslim ruler in the south of the country was expelled, and since then its borders have changed little. The era of conquest began in the 15th century, when Portuguese maritime explorers such as Bartolomeu Dias, Vasco da Gama, Ferdinand Magellan traveled around the world, making great geographical discoveries. By the 16th century, the territories they discovered formed a huge empire that stretched from the coast of Brazil to Africa and Asia. It was during this era that the economy of Portugal reached its greatest prosperity.

In 1910, the monarchy was overthrown in Portugal, and in 1974 a democratically-minded military junta put an end to the dictatorial regime that had existed since 1926. Portugal is one of the few countries in Europe that was not occupied by Nazi troops during World War II.

The constitution adopted in 1976 declared Portugal a parliamentary republic with direct elections and universal adult suffrage.

By handing over the last of its overseas territories, Macau, Macau, which it had held since 1680, to Chinese rule in 1999, Portugal ended a long and sometimes turbulent colonial era in its history.

The events of Portuguese history had a huge impact on the culture of the country and introduced the features of Moorish and Oriental styles into architecture and art. Traditional folk dances and tunes, especially lyrical fado, do not lose their significance to this day, which can be seen and heard right on the streets. According to one version, the name fado comes from the Latin word fatum, which means fate. The melodies of the songs harmoniously combine Moorish, African and Brazilian melodies, the theme of loneliness, longing and foreboding of a sad fate runs through all the songs, but this does not mean that this type of music is suitable only for melancholics. The ability to sing of sadness, to turn it into an object of admiration is one of the national traits of the Portuguese, and it is not without reason that for several centuries almost every family in this country has been waiting for sons and husbands who set off to conquer the sea, and the journey could end in the most unpredictable way.

The population of the country is mono-ethnic, 99% of the 10.8 million population are Portuguese. Many peoples have settled on the Iberian Peninsula for a long time. The most ancient inhabitants - the Iberians - were undersized and swarthy. Over the centuries, the appearance of the Portuguese was formed under the influence of the Celts, Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, as well as Germanic tribes (Visigoths and Alemanni).

Portugal is a monolingual country. Official language- Portuguese. It is spoken by more than 200 million people worldwide on three continents: Eurasia, Africa and South America. This language has similarities with Spanish, since both belong to the Ibero-Romance subgroup of the Romance group of languages, however, with a similar grammatical structure, there are significant differences in pronunciation between them. The formation of the language was greatly influenced by the Germanic tribes and the Arabs (Moors), from whom the Portuguese language borrowed many words, as well as the contacts of travelers, discoverers and merchants with Asian peoples.

National features: Do not question the historical greatness of the country - the Portuguese are proud of their past, especially against the backdrop of the modest place that the country occupies today. The Portuguese are very painful to compare them with the Spaniards, despite the similarity of languages, characters and national cultures. Bullfighting is also popular here, but, unlike the Spanish bullfight, where the bull is killed, in Portuguese the animal is pacified by a team of unarmed fighters (forkados).

In this country, the percentage rural population- one of the highest in Western Europe, many foreigners work at its factories, construction sites and fields, including from Ukraine. Average annual income per capita: 22,500 USD (data from the World Bank, 2011). Average life expectancy is approaching 80 years. As in other countries, women in Portugal live longer, almost 82 years, while men still do not reach 76. The retirement age is 65 years, and the actual retirement age is 61-62 years.

Portugal is a country of great sea voyages, grandiose geographical discoveries and tart port wine. Mild climate, fresh forest and meadow aromas, light ocean breeze And endless expanses Atlantic, unique architecture in the Manueline style and strong coffee… All this deserves to get to know this interesting country better.

Wgetting to know Porto

They say about the cities of Portugal: they pray in Braga, they work in Porto, they party in Lisbon. My acquaintance with Portugal began from Porto. Porto, the second most populated city in Portugal with a population of 240 thousand inhabitants, gave its name not only to port wine, but to the whole country. The historical center of Porto is located on the right bank of the Douro River, a few kilometers from its confluence with the Atlantic Ocean. The city center has been declared a World Cultural Heritage by UNESCO.

Porto is well known for its entrepreneurial spirit, distinctive culture and local cuisine. The city is often called northern capital Portugal. Porto is home to the largest university in Portugal (about 29,000 students).

One of the most striking sights of Porto is the Clerigos Tower - the highest in Portugal - 76 meters or 225 steps. The baroque church was built for the brotherhood of clerics ("Clerigos") by the architect Nicola Nasoni according to the Roman scheme. Its construction began in 1732 and ended in 1750 with the construction of a monumental staircase. July 28, 1748, despite the fact that the building was not yet fully completed, the church was opened for worship. Torre dos Clerigos has become the symbol of the city of Porto. It has been a National Monument since 1910.

The city is famous for the production of different brands of port wine. We visit one of the ancient "port wine houses" - Galem, get acquainted with the history and features of the production of this popular drink. And, of course, we taste some varieties, and whoever wants to buy the wines they like. Warming up the appetite with tasting wines, we begin our acquaintance with Portuguese cuisine in one of the restaurants, where we enjoy the national fish dish called “bacalau”.

Having refreshed ourselves with “bacalau” and tasting port wines, we walked with pleasure along the embankment of the Douro River, where such pretty boats float.

Four bridges are thrown across the Douro River, connecting the historical part of the city with Vila Nova de Gaia, a small neighboring town where the world-famous port wine is stored. One of the bridges (by Louis the First) was built according to the design of Gustave Eiffel: a two-tier structure of impressive size seems openwork and light.

On the highest point of the old city, the Se Cathedral was built. Erected in the 12th century on a granite rock, it originally served as a fortress. Later it was rebuilt, but it has retained its severe appearance to this day. Inside the cathedral is not very interesting. Decor lovers will be impressed by the luxurious silver altar, the construction of which took 800 kg of silver, and the patio, lined with the famous Portuguese azulejo tiles.

Cathedral Square offers a beautiful view of the city.

From the cathedral to the river, the descent goes through the poorest district of Porto. The area of ​​luxurious villas is located near the ocean. You can get here on the current tram-museum, which has not changed since 1930. It's called the Electric Machine Museum. However, each of Porto's trams can serve as an exhibit: inside the vehicle is upholstered in wood, the driver drives it while standing, for the simple reason that there is no seat for it. When the tram reaches the end point of the route, the driver moves from the head to the tail, where there is also a cab, and drives his car in a “reverse course”: the rails in Porto end in a dead end. The most scenic route runs along the ocean coast. From the windows of noisy and old trams you can see fashionable villas, chosen by wealthy people from all over Europe.

Porto, like other Portuguese cities, is distinguished not only by its peculiar architecture, but also by the fact that many houses are lined with multi-colored tiles.

From the early Middle Ages to the 17th century, there was a law that forbade the aristocracy not only to build, but also to stay in the city for more than three days. Even the king did not have his residence in Porto. He was visiting Bishop's Palace built by Nicolo Nazzoni. It is a masterpiece of 18th century Portuguese Baroque architecture. The port city is located all on the hills, it has many funny houses and streets.

It was also interesting to visit the store and a kind of book museum Livraria Lell - the oldest in Portugal and one of the most incredibly beautiful bookstores in the world. Unusual, simply fabulous interior, which is located on two floors of the store. Spectacular and massive decoration of the walls, ceiling, everything is made of noble wood using original and unusual carvings, combined with the surprisingly curved lines of the red staircase that leads to the second floor. No less impressive is the magnificent ceiling made of expensive stained glass. Book Shop located five minutes walk from the city center.

This pretty fountain caught our attention.

It is impossible not to mention the visit to Sao Bento train station. In addition to its direct destination, Sao Bento Station is interesting for its wall-paintings, lined with azulejos tiles in white and blue tones. The largest of them is made of 20 thousand tiles and decorates the waiting room. This panel completely occupies one of its walls. The painting depicts episodes from the history of railways, as well as important moments in the history of Portugal.

When leaving Porto behind the fortress walls, my first meeting with Atlantic Ocean. I go knee-deep into the ocean, the water is quite cool, but you can still take a dip.

Two days in Lisbon

Lisbon is the capital of Portugal and the country's largest city. 570 thousand people live in it. It is located on the right bank of the Tagus River, which flows into the Atlantic Ocean. Its history goes back about 20 centuries. Lisbon was built on seven hills, like Rome and Moscow. Just like Moscow, Lisbon is patronized by George the Victorious. The city became the capital of the state in 1147 after the liberation from Arab colonization. Lisbon owes this to the first king of Portugal, Alfonso Henriquez. The main city of the country was founded by the Phoenicians as a stop at the crossroads of sea routes and named Alis Ubbo - a blessed bay. The city was under the control of the Roman Empire, the Moors, the Spaniards.

We begin our acquaintance with the center of Lisbon - one of the main attractions. In the 18th century, bullfights and public executions took place here. We visit the park of Edward VII and the monument to the Marquis de Pombal. This is a large green meadow with neatly trimmed bushes of the correct geometric shape.

Lisbon - modern European city, located on 15 hills. Walking on it you have to constantly go up and down from the hills. We climb one of the hills, where with the help of a guide we get acquainted with the Moorish fortress of Sant Jorge. Once upon a time, Portuguese kings lived here, and now only a shell with pine groves inside is left of the castle. But this is the highest point of Lisbon and the views from here are appropriate. From the fortress walls you can see a strange structure - openwork frames of arches sticking into the sky. In order to capture the views of the Tagus River and the ancient district of Lisbon Alfama, we walked along the esplanade and climbed the rampart old fortress. The fortress of San Jorge (St. George) has been a fortification covering the mouth of the Tagus River since ancient times. In 1147, King Alphonse Enriques converted the fortress into a royal residence. In 1511, King Manuel I built himself a palace outside the fortress, and here he placed an armory and a prison. During the earthquake of 1755, the fortress was very badly damaged, and only in 1938, under Salazar, the ruins were restored, and only a few details were preserved, reminiscent of the original Moorish Alcasava, later - royal residence where Vasco da Gama celebrated with pomp the success of his trip to India. The fortress walls have been restored and now you can walk around them old quarter Santa Cruz. Various exhibitions are arranged in the fortress towers, telling about the history of the fortress and the whole city. WITH observation platforms offers a magnificent view of Lisbon.

Picturesque streets with houses covered with painted tiles scatter from the fortress in different directions. Benches are carefully placed in the middle of each lift. Most of the streets lead to Alfama - the oldest quarter of Lisbon, which, being built on rocky ground, survived the earthquake without much damage. Here once was the center of the Roman city, and later - the center of the Moorish city. Jews also lived in Alfama until their expulsion in the 16th century. ABOUT metropolitan city it doesn’t remind you of anything: Alfama is more like a fishing village, where the housewives clean fish right on the street and scribble on antediluvian sewing machines, and ropes with linen are tied to orange trees growing right on the steps. Going for a walk in Alfama, tune in to the fact that, most likely, you will get lost - this intricacies of streets practically defies logic.

We go down from the castle on a retro tram running along route No. 28, which resembles the transport of the beginning of the last century, and go on a tour of the city center. We pay tribute to how our tram famously climbs the hills and rushes along the narrow winding streets with a frightening rattle. At one of the moments of the trip, we easily reach the wall of a neighboring house with our hands.

We get off at the bus stop and before us opens an amazing view of the capital. In Lisbon, such observation terraces are called miradores. We found ourselves on the best of them - Miradouro de Santa Luzia. We approach the fence and freeze in admiration. No wonder Lisbon is called the “White City”: in front of us is a whole block of like toy, sun-drenched snow-white houses with orange tiled roofs.

There are many in the city interesting buildings unusual architecture.

We descend to Commerce Square, which is considered one of the most beautiful squares in Portugal. Here, before the earthquake, there was a royal palace built in 1511 by Manuel I. In its center, on a high plinth, rises an equestrian statue of the reformer king José I, whose minister was the Marquis de Pombal. The majestic Arc de Triomphe, decorated with bas-reliefs and statues famous people and connecting the square with Augusta Street, was completed in the 19th century. Then the square got its present name "Commerce Square" due to its proximity to the port, which is the main source of trade in the city. From here you have a magnificent view of the Tagus River, to which you can go down the stairs. Two square towers rise from the south side of the square, and buildings of ministries and banks frame the square on three sides.

The next point of our trip is the Belem area. Where the Tagus flows into the ocean, stands the Belem (that is, Bethlehem) watchtower, and a little closer to land rises the monastery of Jeronimos - an excellent example of the main national style - Manueline, that is, Gothic mixed with Arabic script, sea knots and astrolabes. Two world-famous Portuguese are also buried here - Vasco da Gama (who set off from the Belem Tower, setting off in search of an alternative route to India) and Luis Camões. True, only one tomb remained of Camões, the poet himself died of the plague and was buried in some kind of lost common grave.

Nearby is the coffee shop Casa dos Pastéis de Belém, where they make the best sweets in the city, and perhaps in the country.

Next to the monastery is the Bethlehem Tower (Torre de Belen), built in the 16th century, the symbol of Lisbon. This is one of the best examples of the Manueline style, the tower is under the protection of UNESCO. It is decorated with lanterns, openwork Venetian balconies, stone carvings, a statue of the Madonna of the Navigators under a huge canopy and a sculpture of a rhinoceros. From the inside, the tower looks quite gloomy - there used to be a prison here. The quadrangular Belen Tower is known as a monument to the Portuguese Age of Discovery. The tower, built in 1515-1520 and designed in the Manueline style, is a classic symbol of all of Portugal. This tower was erected in honor of the glorious military and maritime past of Portugal and rises on the spot where caravels once set off to distant lands.

Not far from the Tower on the embankment of the Tagus River in the direction of the April 25 Bridge is the Monument to the Navigators.

What is Lisbon remembered for, in addition to its historical sights? First of all, original architecture that combines different styles. We fell in love with its squares and streets, lined with tiles of various configurations and colors. His numerous souvenir shops with all kinds of colored tiles and products from it did not leave indifferent. The city also has one of the largest oceanariums. With pleasure we rode along the famous tram route No. 28 along its steep streets and with no less pleasure - under the ground on the metro in modern cozy carriages, admired the original interior of its stations.

It's time to say goodbye to hospitable Lisbon. We are passing through one of the most long bridges Europe. 45 months after the start of work (half a year ahead of schedule), on August 6, 1966, a solemn opening ceremony took place in the presence of the highest officials of the state. The structure was named "Salazar Bridge" in honor of the then dictator of Portugal. Shortly after the Carnation Revolution, the bridge was renamed in honor of the day when this event took place - the April 25 Bridge.

Royal Sintra

In the morning we leave Lisbon and head to Sintra. At 27 km from Lisbon at the foot of the low coastal mountains of the Sierra da Sintra is located small town Sintra, which has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995. The Portuguese themselves consider it the main attraction of the country, the pearl of Portugal. Back in the 8th century, the Moors appreciated the defensive significance of this place and built a fortress here. In 1147, Afonso I Henriques drove out the Arabs and for the next 600 years the city was the summer residence of the Portuguese kings.

Among luxury parks, centuries-old forests, bewitching landscapes, amazing palaces, castles, monasteries rise on the hills.

Located in the city itself National Palace Sintra, and in the adjacent mountainous and forested area on a hill - the Palacio da Pena Palace and the dilapidated Castle of the Moors.

Near the station there is a beautiful city hall.

Before climbing the mountain to the Palacio da Pena Palace, we walk with pleasure in the urban part of Sintra, built up with old mansions. The streets wind whimsically and often end with steep stairs, steps lead to observation terraces, which offer stunning views of the mountains and the ocean. The urban landscape abounds with green forests, exotic flowers and exquisite palaces.

In the city you can find many castles and palaces that have been preserved in their originality. These castles contain an important historical and artistic collection, which attracts Portuguese and foreign artists to the city. Interesting and original are not only castles and palaces, but also houses in this fabulous city.

The proximity of the ocean and the mountain ranges provide humid, cool and slightly windy weather, which is great for relaxing even in very hot summers. That is why, already in the 15th century, the summer residence of the royal family of Portugal became fairytale castle Palacio da Pena, which, together with its luxurious park, crowns one of the highest hills of Sintra. Located 450 meters above the city of Sintra, it is one of the most significant examples of Portuguese architecture of the Romantic period. Rising on a rocky hill, it surprisingly harmonizes with the surrounding landscapes, combining lush vegetation and rocky cliffs.

The palace was founded in 1839 when the husband of the Portuguese Queen Maria II Ferdinand II of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha (1816 - 1885) purchased the ruins of the Jerome Monastery and began to rebuild them according to his romantic taste in order to create here summer residence. In order to realize his fantasies, Ferdinando II turned to a German friend, Baron Eschwege, for help and appointed him the construction manager. And since in the 19th century, romantically minded architects no longer hesitated to mix different styles, then the castle, like a three-dimensional puzzle, was assembled from German and Portuguese towers, Moorish arches and courtyards, and Indian domes. And to top it off, they painted it all in bright colors, which delights not only adults, but also children. The whimsically eccentric architecture of the palace combines Moorish, Gothic and Manueline motifs and the spirit of the castles of Central Europe. The palace stands on the top of the mountain, it can be bypassed along the perimeter along a special path. Ferdinand II also built here one of the most spectacular parks in Portugal, which was designed and planted for over 4 years, starting in 1846.

This one is the most beautiful and romantic castle Portugal is jokingly called "Snow White's Palace" and is often compared to the Bavarian Neuschwanstein. Pena Palace can be reached by bus number 434 from the city center for 4.5 euros, but you can also get on the path on foot.

We climb the rock where the fortress built by the Moors between the 9th and 10th centuries is located. During the capture by the Christians, the fortress surrendered without a fight. After the 15th century, the fortress lost its strategic importance. From above, a wonderful landscape opens up: among the sea of ​​greenery, you can see the blue ocean and white-red roofs. settlements and capitals.

We go down on foot to feel the beauty of the surrounding nature more strongly. The entire slope of the mountain is littered with huge boulders, as after a collapse or rockfall. It is not clear how tall trees can grow on these stones.

I pass by the ruins of an old Moorish fortress - once life was stormy here, and now only dilapidated stone walls remind of its former greatness.

Royal Sintra will forever be remembered as one of the most harmonious places in the world, combining and beautiful landscapes, created by mother nature, and man-made palaces and castles, created by talented architects. Lord George Gordon Byron, admiring the beauty of Sintra, called it a paradise, and then forever immortalized the town in the famous poem “Great Paradise”.

Resort towns of Cascais and Estoril

After lunch we head to the westernmost point of Europe - Cape Roca. The path to it runs along the "Portuguese Riviera", with a visit to the resort towns of Cascais and Estoril. Although Lisbon stands on the coast of the ocean, there are no beaches in the city and those who want to plunge into the depths of the sea or just relax on the coast, Lisbon people go to these nearby resort cities. These cities are very nice and cozy.

15 km west of Lisbon is located great resort— Estoril. It has a unique microclimate: warm and sunny summers, moderate temperatures the rest of the year. It is from the resort of Estoril that the tourism industry of Portugal originates. A little over a century ago, the amazing beauty of nature and the mild Atlantic climate attracted the world's elite and representatives of famous aristocratic families to Estoril. Magnificent sandy beaches, clear water and hotels inaccessible to a mere mortal are traditionally in demand among people of considerable income. lovers active rest will enjoy an incredible variety of water sports activities, including 8 newest water parks, and beautiful golf courses.

Her Majesty the Queen of England often rests in Estoril, and the notorious Linda Evangelista has chosen a villa for herself. We pass by the hotel where our first and only President of the USSR, Mikhail Gorbachev, had a rest.

Located just a few kilometers from Estoril and 20 kilometers from Lisbon, Cascais is a typical example of Portuguese architecture with brightly colored tiled roofs and white walls lined with colorful ceramic tiles.

The name Cascais comes from the word cascale - "small stone". The city has a rich historical and architectural ensemble: a museum of history, maritime museum, churches and chapels of the 15th century. There is a monument to Don Pedro in the Central Square.

IN small town there are other monuments. We liked this sculptural warrior.

I really liked this unusual pretty bouquet.

A very attractive walk upper city with a beautifully maintained city park and the romantic castle of the Aristocrat.

If you move further from the city along the rocky coast, you will find yourself in Guinsha - the realm of wide dunes with frequent storm winds. This piece of untouched nature real paradise for windsurfers. Here is the picturesque cliff of Boca de Infierno (“the mouth of the underworld”): the sea has washed out a hole in the rock, and now “infernal stew” is constantly boiling in these stone jaws.

capeCabo deRoca

The mountain road leads to a cliff from which a dizzying panorama of the ocean and coastal cliffs opens. This is the most western point Europe, Cape Cabo de Roca, which became a landmark only in 1979. Before that, the "end of the world" on the Iberian Peninsula was considered the Spanish Cape Finisterre (lat. "end of the earth"). A rock 140 meters high, like the prow of a ship, protrudes into the ocean. Ignoring the protective barrier, I approach its edge. Standing at the very edge, I listen to the solemn music of the ocean and fill with its energy. Probably, the great Portuguese navigators, standing on the western shores of their native continent and peering into the boundless ocean distances, asked themselves the question: “What is beyond these distances?” and to find the answer to this question they went on long sea voyages.

We overcame here a difficult journey by bus through many European countries from the westernmost point of our native Ukraine, the Transcarpathian city of Chop (48º05′ N, 22º08′ E). We take a photo for memory with our yellow-blue national flag next to a stone stele, on which the coordinates (38º47′ N, 9º30′ W) are carved and the inscription “ Onde a terra acaba e o mar comeca….". Shrouded in mist or illuminated by the bright sun, this place is one and only, where, as the poet Camões said: TOthe earth ends and the ocean begins» , - this is how the words carved on a stone stele sound in translation.

This is a memorial stone.

As evidence of my presence in such a charismatic place, I purchase a personalized certificate from the Cape service center that I really was here. On reverse side in different languages, including Russian, the following words are written: “ I certify that I was at Cape Roca in Sintra, Portugal, at the most western point European continent, at the very edge of the world, “where the earth ends and the ocean begins”, where the Spirit of Faith, Love and a thirst for adventure prompted the Portuguese caravels to set off in search of a new world» .

The souvenir shop has a lot of different products about staying in the westernmost point of Europe, especially a lot of souvenirs with drawings on various ceramic products. I choose a fridge magnet in the form of a small ceramic tile with the image of a cape as a memento of visiting this unique place.

But the main thing that we take away from this place is the memories of what the westernmost point of our native European continent looks like. The turquoise smoothness of the Atlantic caresses the eye, and the menacing rocks evoke legends of tragic, unrequited love.

We have reached the extreme point our native continent, and with this I conclude my story about the journey through the Iberian Peninsula, my "Iberian Romance".

The African port of Ceuta, captured by the Portuguese in 1418, became the first springboard for the implementation of the Atlantic expeditions. The main initiator and inspirer of the development of new lands was the Portuguese Infante Enrique (Henry). The nickname "Seafarer" given to him by his contemporaries testifies to the role he played in initiating long-distance sea voyages. The main task that Henry the Navigator set was to find out how far south of Africa the lands of Muslim states stretch.

It was supposed to lay a trans-African trade route bypassing the countries of Islam. Travels were also motivated by the search for the mythical Christian kingdom of Prester John. Some thought it was on Far East, others in the South. Wealthy merchants and shipowners were involved in organizing the expedition. The first significant geographical discoveries of Portuguese navigators were the island of Madeira (1419) and the Azores (1427).

Geographical searches in the Middle Ages were held back in part by myths about the existence of the limits of the earth - boundaries, the crossing of which is mortally dangerous for humans. One of these limits was considered Cape Nun off the coast of modern Morocco. Starting from the 20s. 15th century this line was regularly crossed by Portuguese navigators. As a result, the myth about the limits of the ecumene was dispelled. After Captain Gil Eanesh reached Cape Bojador in 1434, the speed of sea progress to the south averaged one degree per year. In 1446, Captain Dinis Dias reached the territory of Senegal; a year later, another Portuguese captain, Alard Fernandez, advanced almost to the coast of Sierra Leone.

Travel has been supported catholic church. According to the bull of 1455 of Pope Nicholas I, all lands and seas open south of the cape Bojador, passed into the possession of the Portuguese king Afonso V and his descendants. Since that time, the royal authorities of Portugal have set the task of laying an enveloping Africa sea ​​route to India. The context of the relevant papal decisions was determined by the fall of Constantinople in 1453 and the capture of the old trade routes Ottoman Turks. In this regard, Afonso V was instructed to make geographical map peace.

In 1456, Captain Diogo Gomes reached the territory of modern Cape Verde. From the 60s. 15th century there is an active development of the African coast of the Gulf of Guinea, from where the Portuguese caravels delivered gold and ivory to Europe. However, the death in 1460 of Infante Enrique led to a sharp decline in the number of Portuguese travels.

A new impetus to the travels of Portuguese sailors was given in 1469 to the merchant Fernand Gomes the right to a monopoly on trade in the Gulf of Guinea. In exchange, Gomes undertook to explore 100 miles to the south for five years. Moving further south Portuguese sailors crossed the equator. The development of the Southern Hemisphere began.

Further development of the lands of southern Africa was facilitated by the opening in 1481 by King Juan II of a trading post on the Gold Coast. In 1482, the Portuguese entered the mouth of the Congo River, and by 1486 they reached the territory of Namibia. In 1488, an expedition led by Bartolomeu Dias reached the southernmost point of Africa, which he called "Cape of Storms." Rounding the African continent from the south, the European expedition traveled for the first time from the Atlantic to the Indian Ocean. Almost at the same time, Pierre de Covilhã, secretly sent by the Portuguese king to search for the kingdom of Prester John, came overland to Ethiopia and India. The information he collected proved that there was a sea route from Europe to Asia. These discoveries of Portuguese travelers refuted the notions of encirclement that had prevailed since the time of Ptolemy. indian ocean dry land on all sides. The Cape of Storms was renamed Cape Good Hope, indicating the hope of reaching India by sea route.

100 great geographical discoveries Balandin Rudolf Konstantinovich

SEA ROUTE TO INDIA (Portuguese sailors)

SEA ROUTE TO INDIA

(Portuguese sailors)

Theoretically, the route from Portugal to India around Africa was opened already at the end of the life of Henry the Navigator. Documentary evidence of this has been preserved: a map of the world larger than human height. It was compiled in the monastery of Murano near Venice, and it was called the Great Venetian, or Fra Mauro map. It depicts Europe, Asia and Africa; the ocean extends around the entire inhabited land, and it is possible to reach India from Western Europe, rounding Africa.

Of course, the map travel only mentally. However, in true geographical discoveries, thought precedes deeds. The large Venetian map clearly showed that the implementation of the eastern sea route from Europe to India requires only time, money, perseverance and a bit of luck.

Here it is appropriate to recall the saying: overseas a heifer is a half, but a ruble is transported. No matter how cheap precious spices are in India, it turned out that the tempting path was too far. Wouldn't it be easier to trade through intermediaries on the already beaten caravan, river and sea routes through the Mediterranean and Black Seas?

Such doubts of the Portuguese were quite reasonable. However, quite unexpectedly, their commercial and political competitors, the Spaniards, had their say. They decided to get to the east, sending their ships in the opposite direction - to the west! And they quickly achieved success (not realizing that they did not reach Asia).

But why did the Portuguese follow the eastern route to India for almost a century, abandoning the search for the western route?

An essential role was played by the fact that Henry the Navigator and his successors used maps that depicted a round Earth and, naturally, a flat one (it is a difficult task to depict the surface of a ball on a flat sheet). And what is there, on the other half of the globe, except for the desert ocean? There was no reliable data on the real size of our planet at that time.

... After Cape Bojador, the southern tip of Africa became a critical frontier for Portuguese sailors. The main natural obstacles were the Benguela Current, storms and southeast trade winds. For light ships under sail, it was not easy to overcome these obstacles. Once upon a time, a flotilla equipped by Pharaoh Necho chose the path - by chance - the most convenient way to go around Africa: clockwise. If moving to reverse direction along the coast, then in the west you meet the resistance of a warm current. It runs northward between the Cape Verde Islands and the mainland. True, then swimming is favored by a large warm Guinean current, washing from the northwest to the southeast and then to the south, the shores of the bay of the same name. Sailboats can go this way quite quickly. But behind Cape St. Martin (at the latitude of St. Helena), a branch of the cold and powerful Benguela Current moves north along the continent.

For this reason, the simplest, most convenient and fast track from the northwestern tip of Africa to the south lies not in a straight line and does not run along the coast, but is directed across the Atlantic Ocean, to the southwest, then along the Brazilian current to the south and, finally, to the east. (Approximately such a course was chosen by Vasco da Gama). This is how the principle of space-time relativity manifests itself in geography: movement in the direction of the prevailing winds and currents of the World Ocean passes faster than along a shorter path, but against atmospheric and sea currents.

This example clearly shows how great importance had knowledge in the history of navigation natural conditions, in the first place - the direction and strength of air and water masses. Not surprisingly, such information was kept strictly secret.

So, the discovery by the Portuguese of the sea route from Western Europe to South Asia lasted ... 85 years. Its beginning is usually considered the capture of Ceuta in 1415, and the end is the autumn of 1499, when Vasco da Gama returned to Lisbon after visiting India.

The first half of this discovery was completed in 1462, two years after the death of Prince Henry, when his sailors entered the Gulf of Guinea. Regular expeditions in this direction began only in 1470. After 5 years, it was possible to move to the Southern Hemisphere, however, only two degrees, to Cape St. Catherine.

The next two expeditions were led in 1482 by Diogo Can. In four years, he was the first European to delve more than 20 degrees into the Southern Hemisphere, exploring one and a half thousand miles of the African coast, right up to the Namib Desert.

A significant thrust to the south was made by the skilful navigator Bartolomeu Dias (Bartolomew Dias). His flotilla (of three small ships) left Lisbon in 1487, began to explore the shores south of the mouth of the Congo River (Zaire) and went south further than Diogo Cana along the desert lands, passing the zone of the Southern Tropic. A strong oncoming current and a storm forced Dias to deviate to the west, towards the open ocean.

They were carried far to the south of the continent's outskirts (this, of course, they could not know). Although it was summer in the Southern Hemisphere (January 1488), it was getting colder. Their ships were not adapted for sailing in cold seas, the crew did not have proper clothing. The sailors were most afraid not even of a storm, but of death from the cold. Finally, the storm subsided, warmer. Dias headed east. For several days they could not see the land. Diash rightly decided that they rounded the outskirts of the mainland, and turned the ships to the north.

Only on February 3 did they manage to reach the shore. Several half-naked shepherds were grazing cows in the meadow. Seeing the strangers, the natives began to shout and wave their hands. With a shot from a crossbow, the Portuguese killed one of them, the rest fled.

Having named the bay Shepherd and having collected fresh water, the Portuguese headed east. However, the team began to grumble, tired of the difficult voyage, demanded to return to their homeland. Dias begged to wait another three days. The coast turned gently to the northeast. Dias was sure that now the way to India was open. Alas, in order to avoid a rebellion of the team, the captain was forced to give the order to turn back. The only consolation for him was a stone pillar (padran) erected by his expedition with a cross on the farthest point of the African coast for Europeans.

According to the 16th-century Portuguese historian João Barros, Dias “felt such a feeling of bitterness, such grief, as if parting with his beloved son, doomed to eternal exile; he recalled the danger with which both for himself and for all his subordinates he went such a long way only to put up this stone pillar, and God did not let him do the most important thing.

Having passed a cape in southern Africa, around which they fell into a strong storm, the Portuguese called it Tormentosu ("Stormy"). But when Dias, returning to Lisbon, reported his expedition to King Juan II, he decided that there was no need to disturb the navigators in advance, who now had a way to India, and renamed Stormy into the Cape of Good Hope.

However, there was little hope of reaching India by this route: it turned out to be too difficult and long. The King of Portugal did not rush to send a new expedition. He was forced to do so only by changed circumstances.

In March 1493, Christopher Columbus returned to Spain, announcing his discovery of the islands of Asia across the Atlantic Ocean (for which he took the islands of the Caribbean). Pope Alexander VI (“the most perfect incarnation of the devil on Earth,” according to Stendhal) by his decree divided the world across the Atlantic Ocean in such a way that Portugal got the lands south of the equator, and Spain - to the north ...

For the Portuguese, it became clear: it was necessary to master the eastern route to India. In 1497, a new expedition was organized with the aim of circumnavigating Africa and reaching the coveted (for merchants) India. The new king, Manuel I, appointed the noble courtier Vasco da Gama as its head. This enterprise was considered honorable and responsible, but extremely difficult and associated with possible hostilities. Vasco da Gama, five years earlier, showed his resourcefulness, courage and determination in the fight against French privateers (pirates in public service). Perhaps this is what the king remembered when he determined the head of the expedition - more military and commercial than consistent. In addition, an authoritative diplomat was required in case it happened to conclude trade and political agreements with the rulers of Asian countries. Vasco da Gama was not an experienced sailor. In all other respects, his candidacy was quite suitable. And excellent captains and navigators, of which there were many in the country, could lead the ships.

In July 1497, Vasco da Gama's flotilla (four large ships) went to the ocean. They headed south and, passing the Cape Verde Islands, instead of entering the Gulf of Guinea, began to go around it from the west, moving further and further away from the mainland. This made it possible, approaching the latitude of the Cape of Good Hope and using the currents, to turn to the east, relatively easily and quickly reaching the southern tip of Africa.

In Shepherd's Harbor, Vasco da Gama made a peaceful bargain with the natives, receiving a fat bull and ivory bracelets in exchange for red caps and bells. Moving further to the north-northeast, the Portuguese met more and more civilized tribes who mastered agriculture and metallurgy, and established trade relations with the Arabs.

In the Zambezi Delta, the Portuguese were forced to stop for a month to repair ships. Many of the sailors were seriously ill with scurvy, and several died. Scurvy was one of the terrible enemies of sailors until the second half of the 18th century, or rather, not the disease itself, but ignorance of its causes and measures to combat it. Even among the lush tropical vegetation, Europeans often died from this disease, never realizing that there were cures for it around - nutritious plants containing vitamin C.

Going further north, the Portuguese increasingly met the ships of Arab merchants, who exported slaves, ivory, ambergris, and gold from these areas. Realizing that the Europeans were their competitors, the Arabs did everything possible to make it difficult for them to navigate. IN major port Mombasa, located near the equator, it came to an armed conflict. Vasco da Gama showed determination and cruelty, ordering the torture of prisoners and capturing merchant ships like a real pirate.

At the next stop in the harbor of Malindi, Vasco da Gama was friendly met by a local sheikh (who was at enmity with Mombasa) and gave them an experienced Arab pilot Ahmed Ibn Majid, an expert on navigation. He ordered to take a course to the northeast, into the open ocean. With a favorable monsoon and sea currents, they quickly reached the coast of India and on May 20, 1498, stood in the roadstead near the large city of Calicut (not to be confused with Calcutta, located on opposite side peninsulas of Hindustan). True, their business did not go very well. Almost all foreign trade in Calicut was controlled by the Arabs. (They greeted the aliens with the words: "What devil brought you here?")

Nevertheless, Europeans managed to acquire spices, precious stones, silk fabrics. Unable to pay customs fees, Vasco da Gama seized noble hostages (also a common pirate trick) and exchanged some of them for Portuguese sailors captured in the port and his cargo detained at customs.

The return journey to Lisbon was completed without much incident. In the summer of 1499 the expedition ended. Only two ships and less than half of the sailors returned. Delivered goods fully paid off the costs of the enterprise and even brought some income.

They rejoiced in the royal palace: the eastern sea route to India was finally opened, promising the flourishing of trade and the enrichment of the country and its rulers. Vasco da Gama received honors and congratulations.

And in the modest homes of the sailors who died in the voyage, sorrow reigned. No one glorified nameless young people who did not return to their homeland. “But they were the backbone of the expedition ... - correctly noted the American historian G. Hart. “They, along with Vasco da Gama, are also heroes of the opening of the sea route to India.”

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Porto is one of the oldest Portuguese cities. The name of the country comes from it, formed from the merger of two words: the Latin "portus" - "port" and the Greek "kalos" - "beautiful".

This was the name of two settlements that were once located on the banks of the Douro River. Greek on the right, Roman on the left. The left and right banks of Porto are connected by six bridges. One of them was designed by Gustave Eiffel, the author of the Eiffel Tower.

Porto is the birthplace of Henry the Navigator. Thanks to this prince, Portugal in the 15th century entered the era of great geographical discoveries. Portuguese sailors opened up to Christendom lands thousands of miles from Europe, and subjugated territories many times larger than theirs to the Portuguese monarchs. European possessions.

Porto is considered by many to be the most picturesque city in Portugal. And it is impossible not to agree with this. You can wander through its narrow streets for hours. And everywhere you can feel the connection of Porto with the sea. And it's not just the air saturated with the smell of iodine... Even in the city squares there are not the usual pigeons, but seagulls...

Most of the Portuguese border runs along the sea, so maritime traditions for Portugal are not an empty phrase. In this country, much is connected with the sea, in particular its name. The sea is not only naval battles, long trips, unknown countries and endless beaches. The sea is also fishing and fishermen.

Fishing has played such an important role in the life of the Portuguese for centuries that in one of the modern districts of Porto they erected a one-of-a-kind monument - a monument to the fishing net.

In recent years, Portugal catches much less fish than before - the European Union has introduced strict quotas. But this did not lead to any deficit. And in every seaside town or village there is always a market where they sell the freshest fish of today's catch.

What I couldn’t imagine was that in Portuguese fish market, in the most fishy area of ​​the Algarve, it will be so quiet and peaceful.

The variety of assortment is amazing. The favorite local fish is dried cod, as the Portuguese say "bacalau". Strange as it sounds, they bring it from Norway. And generally always brought from the Nordic countries. The quota for cod is small, so we have to bring it in from Scandinavia.

In the morning, a kilogram of sardines costs four euros, and in the evening - already two. Poorer people come and buy everything in bulk, so that nothing is wasted.

Large fishing vessels go fishing in almost any weather - both in calm and in a storm. For owners of small boats, today's excitement means downtime. But then they had time to carefully check the gear and put them in order.

Some of the fishermen are really fiddling with gear. But the vast majority of seafarers use their unexpected leisure in a more pleasant way. They fill coastal pubs where they drink beer and cut into cards.

And the storm, by the way, has been going on for the fourth day. And all these days they probably tell their wives in the morning that they went to work. In one tavern, a fisherman advised me to definitely get acquainted with Sebastian. He is the oldest fisherman. I went to sea even under the dictator Salazar. Why Salazar - old man Sebastian, according to the stories of the same sailor, under Henry the Navigator he caught fish.

The history of Portugal is inextricably linked with the era of great discoveries. In the 15th century, having gained a foothold on land, the Portuguese also wanted to have complete dominance at sea. Attempts to explore the seas and oceans began. This era was opened by Prince Enrique, the legendary Henry the Navigator.

The youngest son of the Portuguese king João I did not accidentally get the nickname Navigator. Settling on the Sagres Peninsula, he gathered cartographers, astronomers and shipbuilders around him. And in the local fortress he opened a school of navigation.

In 1416, a long and well-organized sea expedition was launched under the leadership of Henry the Navigator. It should be noted that Henry the Navigator himself, paradoxically as it may sound, never went to sea. He was only the organizer of these campaigns.

For many years, a lighthouse built on Cape Sau Vincente, near Sagres, helped sailors not to break on the rocks. Now it's just a memorial. Its height is 61 meters, and the beam length is 90 km. This is the largest lighthouse in Europe.

Henry the Navigator admonished his captains: "No danger that you meet can be greater than the reward that awaits you." After the death of Henry, the distant expeditions that he initiated did not stop. One of them, in July 1497, went in search of a sea route to India.

The work of Henry the Navigator was continued by a young courtier of noble origin, Vasco da Gama. Only he actually took part in sea voyages. Da Gama became the first European to sail around the Cape of Good Hope and reach the shores of India. He returned to Portugal with hundreds of bags of Indian spices, which were valued in Europe more than gold.

More than five hundred years ago, on the site of the monastery of Sant Jerónimos, there was a chapel of Henry the Navigator. In it, before his sailing to India, Vasco da Gama prayed. And here, upon his return, he was met by King Manuel I. In honor of the opening of the sea route to India, this monastery was founded. Here, in the monastery of Sant Jerónimos, the remains of Vasco da Gama were eventually transferred.

The greatest poet of Portugal, Luis de Camões, who dedicated the poem "Lusiada" to the journey of the famous navigator, is buried in the same walls.
Da Gama died during his third campaign in India in 1524. He was originally buried in the city of Cochin, in the first Catholic cathedral built by the Portuguese in India. They still show his empty grave there.

Discovering new lands, Portuguese navigators declared them the property of the Portuguese crown. By the end of the 16th century, Lisbon was subject to an entire empire, stretching from Brazil in the west to the Chinese coast in the east.

Scattered throughout this space are formidable forts - like the one towering over Praia, the capital of the current Republic of Cape Verde, and until the seventies of the last century - the Portuguese colony of Cape Verde Island.

The guns of these forts helped to keep the local population in submission and repel the encroachments of other European powers, who more than once tried to lay hands on the Portuguese colonies.

A living memory of the era of great geographical discoveries and the colonial empire serve as islands of Portuguese-speaking Christian culture, interspersed in a strikingly foreign environment.

So in the Chinese Aomyn, the former Portuguese colony of Macau, there are almost more statues of the Madonna "" and Catholic saints than Buddhist statues.

In Malaysian Malacca, there is a quarter where all the signs are in Portuguese, and in the courtyards of the houses there are Catholic altars. The descendants of the Portuguese live here. However, the Portuguese blood flowing in their veins is so diluted with Malaysian that outwardly they do not differ from the indigenous population.

Brazil is a huge fragment of the Portuguese empire, both in area and in population many times greater than the former metropolis. Nevertheless, the symbol of Rio de Janeiro - the statue of Christ towering over the city - is an exact copy of the statue that adorns Lisbon.

Macau, Malacca, Cape Verde, Rio de Janeiro and many other places on the globe where people of different races speak Portuguese are separated from Portugal by thousands of kilometers of sea routes. The feat of the people who explored these paths is worthy of admiration. After all, they sailed on ships not much larger than the current fishing launches.

Cape San Vicente (Cabo de São Vicente), the extreme southwestern point of Europe, is the main attraction of the Portuguese province of Algarve. There are always many tourists here. They take pictures, carelessly approaching the very cliff, “Here I am, at the end of the world!”, feast on German “Wurstchen” at the “Last Sausage Before America” kiosk, and seventy-meter cliffs crash into the ocean surface around. One is like the bow of a ship, the other is like a protruding tongue, and all together like a clawed stone paw that wants to reach the horizon. “Shshshtotam, shshshtotam…” the waves say. What's there? In the south - Africa, in the west - America, any student will answer you.

Ever since Cape San Vicente was a frontier for Europeans inhabited world, and they did not know either Africa (with the exception of the northern part of the mainland), or America, a little more than five centuries passed. For our planet, this is one moment. Picturesque rocks, which tourists photograph today, have not changed, but people's ideas about the geography of the Earth have changed dramatically.

The second half of the 15th century is considered the beginning of the era of the Great Geographical Discoveries: they follow one after another, as if someone had prepared the triumph of navigation in advance. And indeed it is! It is difficult to say how much later Europe would have learned that there are other lands beyond the immeasurable water desert, if not for a man whose name is not known to everyone - the Portuguese Infante Enrique (Henry) the Navigator (Infante Dom Нenrique o Navigator). Just as in cinematography, audience love goes to famous actors, and the director, the true inspirer and organizer of the action, often stays in the shadows, the names of legendary discoverers are well known in the history of navigation. Everyone has heard of Vasco da Gama, Columbus, Magellan… but Enric the Navigator? During his life, he made only three close voyages and did not discover any new lands. Nevertheless, Enrique the Navigator rightfully deserved his honorary title.

Cape San Vicente

Infante Enrique (1394-1460), the third son of King João I of Portugal and Philippa of Lancaster, distinguished himself in his youth during the capture of the North African port of Ceuta (this sea campaign of 1415 marked the beginning of the Portuguese expansion in North Africa). After the Ceuta company, the Infante had no shortage of tempting offers of a military and diplomatic career. However, the descendant of the Portuguese and the nephew of the English kings retires into the wilderness, to the very south of Portugal, and, becoming the governor of the province of the Algarve, equips sea expeditions one after another. For what? In order to penetrate from the sea to the western coast of Africa, and if you're lucky - to find a sea route to the East, to India, where there is an abundance of what is worth its weight in gold in Europe - spices. Infante Enrique seemed to foresee the future: after the Ottoman Turks defeated Byzantium in the middle of the 15th century, the way to the East by land was closed to Europeans.

What country, if not Portugal, should look for a sea route to the land of spices? The “Cinderella of Europe”, pushed to the very edge of the continent, having no access to the Mediterranean Sea that unites peoples, already inhabited a thousand years ago, Portugal faces only the ocean, from which, unlike the sea, there was no use, except that fishing is not far from coast. Who dares to sail south along the African continent beyond the legendary Cape Nun (from the Portuguese "nao" - no), if, according to the ancient authority in the field of geography Ptolemy, Africa - a deadly desert - froze to Antarctic ice and you can't get around it. Even more hopeless is the way to the west across the boundless ocean, teeming with unprecedented monsters.

Sea monsters. Illustration from Cosmogarfia by Sebastian Münster. 1550

But not only superstition and fear of the unknown did not allow sailing ships to go far to the sea. It was no less difficult for the sailors of that time to go on an ocean voyage than it is for a modern person to make a space flight. The art of navigation was in decline, the experience of the sailors of antiquity and the Vikings, who reached at the end of the 10th century to North America, has been largely forgotten. The imperfection of the ships, the lack of good maps and more or less accurate navigational instruments, inept and fearful sailors - this is what Enrique faced when he started his sea expeditions. What was to be done? Learn to navigate!

How interesting and contradictory this strange prince is ... His motto was the words "Talent for good deeds." Severe and ascetic, he did not start a family and in 1420 became the supreme master of the knightly Order of Christ, the successor to the Knights Templar, dissolved in 1312. Infante Enrique was a romantic dreamer who eagerly listened to the stories of captains about distant lands, a fanatical missionary who sought to spread Christianity around the world, a tough businessman who established a successful trade in African slaves. But most importantly, he was an intelligent organizer and a perspicacious researcher. Secluded in Sagres, just east of Cape San Vicente, Enrique the Navigator created the first navigational school in Europe.

Here is how Stafan Zweig describes it in the novel “Magellan. Man and his act” (1938):

“According to, perhaps, the romanticizing reports of the Portuguese chronicles, he ordered the delivery of books and atlases from all parts of the world, called on Arab and Jewish scientists and instructed them to make more accurate navigational instruments and tables. He invited every sailor, every captain who returned from a voyage, and questioned him in detail. All this information was carefully kept in a secret archive, and at the same time he equipped a number of expeditions. Infante Enrique tirelessly contributed to the development of shipbuilding; in a few years, the former barcas - small open fishing boats, the crew of which consists of eighteen people - turn into a real naos (Portuguese name for a caravel - M.A) - stable ships with a displacement of eighty, even a hundred tons, capable of sailing even in stormy weather open sea. This new type of ship suitable for long-distance navigation also led to the emergence of a new type of sailors. To help the helmsman is the "master of astrology" - a specialist in navigation, who knows how to understand portolans (navigation charts - M.A.), determine the compass deviation, and mark the meridians on the map. Theory and practice creatively merge together, and gradually, in these expeditions, a new tribe of sailors and explorers grows from simple fishermen and sailors, whose deeds will be completed in the future.

Portuguese caravel

From 1416 until the death of the Infante in 1460, dozens of ships sailed into the ocean at his will and at his (and in fact the Order of Christ) funds. The ships set off from a convenient harbor in the city of Lagos (Lagos), which is east of Sagres. The first voyages were made on single-masted barges, from the 1440s on three-masted caravels with slanting “Latin” sails. On the white sails of the caravels, a scarlet cross was inscribed - a sign of the Order of Christ.
The captains did not dare to turn back: the infant, enraged by failures, was more terrible for them than any sea monster. Why Enrique did not personally participate in the voyages remains not entirely clear. Perhaps it was believed that it was fitting for a person of royal blood to swim only with the military, and not with research purposes. Perhaps the Infante himself believed that he was more needed on land than at sea.

Nuno Goncalves. Altar of San Vicente (1456-67).
Right in the second row - Enrique the Navigator

Infante Enrique and the school of navigation on the secluded shore were legendary among contemporaries. What can we say about later times, when after pirate raids and the Great Lisbon earthquake of 1755, there was no trace of the school left - only a strange stone disk resembling a wind rose. They write that Enrique was a cripple, a gloomy hunchback, that he never went to sea at all, that the navigation school did not exist at all, that some secret order operated under the guise of the school ...

Portrait of Enrique the Navigator.
Fragment of the San Vicente altar.

But back to reality. What were the results of the expeditions? It may seem that among the amazing discoveries of the subsequent decades, they are rather modest. Roughly, as a flight to the moon compared to landing on Mars. But it was these voyages that became the first step towards conquering the ocean. In 1419, the island of Madeira was discovered (in general, by chance, the ships would not have dared to sail so far to the west if they had not been blown away by a storm), in 1427, Diogo Salves reached the Azores. In 1460, Diogo Gomes discovered some of the islands of the Cape Verde archipelago. After many unsuccessful attempts in 1434, Captain Gil Eanish managed to move south along the African continent, rounding the fatal Cape Bojador (26 ° north latitude). The cape seemed for a long time to be an insurmountable barrier, because in this place a shoal stood out far into the sea, and the sailors did not dare to move away from the coast in order to bypass it. Chroniclers report that the captain brought the infanta from this momentous voyage wild roses plucked south of Cape Bojador (Cabo Bojador).

Slave market in Lagos

The psychological barrier was taken, and the following expeditions moved further and further south. By 1444, caravels from Lagos had crossed the southern border of the Sahara and reached the fertile and populated coast of Africa. Enrique's dream came true to penetrate the African mainland, bypassing the desert by sea! Since that time, voyages along the African coast have become purely commercial - gold was brought to Portugal, "white gold" - ivory and "black gold" - slaves. The slave market in Lagos flourished. Alas, here the infant was the first in Europe!

Enrique the Navigator did not see the main fruits of his efforts. In 1486, Bartolomeu Dias reached the southern tip of the African continent and circled it. Vasco (Vashku) da Gama (it is significant that he was born in the same 1460, when Enrique died) fulfilled the plan of the Infante and in 1498, bypassing Africa, sailed to Calcutta. In 1500, Pedro Alvares Cabral discovered Brazil. The Portuguese navigators did something that Infante Enrique could not have imagined: in 1543 they reached Japan! The achievements of Portugal could have been even more significant if King Juan I had not rejected the proposal of the Genoese Columbus in 1485, and King Manuel I in 1515 had not rejected the project of his compatriot Fernao Magalhaes, who, already like Fernando Magellan, switched to the service of Spain. As a result, the voyages of Columbus and Magellan were made under the Spanish flag and for the Spanish crown.

Monument to Enrique the Navigator in Lagos.

From the “Cinderella of Europe”, Portugal turned into the queen of the seas, but not for long: already in the 16th century, its decline began. The era of the great geographical discoveries is the highest rise in the history of this country. Portugal remembers to whom it owes the fact that it has become for mankind a springboard to the Atlantic, and honors Enrique the Navigator. In 1960, on the 500th anniversary of the Infante's death, two monuments were erected in Portugal. The first is a monument to Enrique the Navigator in the historical center of Lagos, near the river embankment, along which his ships went out into the ocean. We know how Infant Enrique looked like in his mature years thanks to the Portuguese artist Nuno Gonçalves. In the grandiose altar of San Vicente (1456-67) there is a portrait of Enrique the Navigator, accurately recreated from a lifetime miniature from the “Chronicle of the Conquests of Guinea” of 1453. Immortalized in dark bronze, Enrique appears the same as Nuno Goncalves portrayed him - proud, intelligent, strict.

Monument to the discoverers in Lisbon.

Monument to the discoverers in Lisbon.

The second monument - "Padrao dos Descobrimentos" (monument to the discoverers) - is installed on the waterfront of Lisbon, at the mouth of the Tagus River. This is a 52-meter tower in the shape of a caravel, on board which the famous Portuguese ascend: kings, knights, priests, captains, cartographers, artists, poets. Among them are Vasco da Gama, Luis de Camões (Luis de Camoes), the author of the poem “Luisiades” celebrating the discovery of India, Fernando Magalhães-Magellan, artist Nuno Goncalves. Figures flow around the deck on both sides, and in front, on the bow of the ship, stands Enrique the Navigator with a model of a caravel in his hands. He looks to where the Tagus flows into the ocean, as if he is trying to see unknown lands beyond the horizon: in the south - Africa, in the west - America.

Marina Agranovskaya
Author's photo

Fado Mar português with lyrics by Fernando Pessoa