Beautiful places on clean ponds. Park on clean ponds
Station " Chistye Prudy”is part of the Sokolnicheskaya line of the Moscow metro. A wonderful and surprisingly beautiful section of the capital - Chistye Prudy: the metro is nearby, a green boulevard, a magnificent pond ...
The station was built and put into operation in 1935, along with the very first section of the Sokolniki metro station - Park Kultury.
Location
This station is located between the "Red Gate" and "Lubyanka". Entry Location - Start Chistoprudny Boulevard. The territory belongs to the Basmanny district of the Central District of the capital.
Through this station, you can exit, in addition to the boulevard itself, to Myasnitskaya Street and to the square called Myasnitsky Gates.
Chistye Prudy (metro station): description
The ground hall has an original cube shape. The depth of the subway itself is more than 35 meters.
The vaults of the hall support two rows of twin pylons. Their finish is represented by smoky light Ural marble. Large cornices, behind which lighting is arranged, are hidden by vaulted supports.
The walls were faced with black granite (bottom) and gray marble only in the 90s. Previously (until 1997) there was an ordinary white tile. The floors are paved with gray and pink granite.
Passenger traffic daily at the exit is 32,000 people, and at the entrance - 29,000.
History of the station: features
The Chistye Prudy metro station was built according to an individual project. Monolithic reinforced concrete blocks were used here. At first, the station had two entrance halls on the site of the current central one.
The shape of the station's structure is a three-vaulted pylon (reconstructed in 1971).
It is also interesting that the floors at the station until 1972 were asphalt. Later they were lined with granite.
Before the construction of the transition to the neighboring Sretensky Bulvar station, and, accordingly, to another line, a bust (bronze) of S. M. Kirov (sculptor M. G. Manizer) stood at the end of the Chistye Prudy metro hall near the wall. Previously, the station was also called "Kirovskaya" in his honor. Now this statue is located at the crossing between Sretensky Boulevard and Turgenevskaya and has lost its former connection with the Chistye Prudy station.
Vestibule (hall), transfers, transitions
"Chistye Prudy" is a metro station that has a single, moreover, ground lobby. From the central hall itself there is a transition to Turgenevskaya (Kaluzhsko-Rizhskaya line).
In 2008, the completed transition to the Lyublinsko-Dmitrovskaya line through Sretensky Bulvar was opened at the station. To access this transitional gallery, you must use the escalator located at the end of the station hall.
In the very original version, it was proposed to open this crossing together with the Sretensky Bulvar station, but there was a delay in the delivery of escalators from the factory in St. Petersburg, and only one transfer was opened. The launch of the crossing from Chistye Prudy was postponed.
There is a passage to the Turgenevskaya station, to which stairs rise from the very center of the hall.
origin of name
The station "Chistye Prudy" (Moscow, metro) is so named due to the proximity to it of Chistoprudny Boulevard, as well as Chistye Prudy. The exit leads to them.
It is curious that until 1703 the pond itself was called Pogany, due to the fact that waste from slaughterhouses and shops located in these places was dumped into it. It was subsequently cleared and renamed.
The current Myasnitskaya street used to be called Kirovskaya (until 1990), so the station had the same name (in honor of the politician S. M. Kirov).
Finally, some interesting facts
- Metro "Chistye Prudy", as already noted, has a cubic-shaped ground lobby. Previously, there were similar vestibules at the Komsomolskaya (northern) and Smolenskaya stations. To date, only one has survived, at Chistye Prudy.
- This is one of the few stations with the old "METRO" sign on the lobby.
- During the Second World War, the halls of the Chistye Prudy metro station housed the departments of the General Staff and the country's air defense.
- The first fluorescent lamps illuminated this particular station of the Moscow Metro, starting in 1947.
- The area of Chistye Prudy gathers a huge number of people from all over Moscow: lovers of various styles of music, non-formal people, etc. Many people gather at the monument to A. Griboyedov, at the fountain of Chistoprudny Boulevard, sit on benches, meadows. One of the simple names for this cozy place recreation - Clean.
- Rallies, flash mobs and holidays are often held here. This is truly a cult place. And the Chistye Prudy station makes its contribution to these curious large-scale actions.
HOW TO GET TO: Art. Metro station "Chistye Prudy", "Turgenevskaya"
ADDRESS: Moscow, Chistoprudny Boulevard
This park got its name from the pond located on its territory. The most famous of the squares of the Boulevard Ring.
In summer, you can admire the beautiful alleys, take a boat ride on the pond. The words of Talkov's song come to mind: “Clean ponds, shy willows, like brides, bowed at the ponds ...” There are beautiful fountain with sculptures.
Chistye Prudy stretched from the monument to Griboyedov to the Boulevard Ring. In winter, a skating rink is flooded in the park, riding on which you can feel yourself, if not a master of sports in figure skating, then at least a candidate.
Chistoprudny Boulevard was founded in the first half of the 19th century. Before that, the Zhivoginny yard was located here, where cattle were sold.
The butchers, who did not want to pay for the slaughter of cattle, slaughtered it themselves, and threw the garbage into the nearest reservoirs, which at that time could hardly be called clean. For them, the name "Stinking Ponds" would be more suitable.
There are no shops or cafes near the park itself, so stock up on provisions in advance. Some exhibitions, sometimes even interesting ones, are constantly arranged along the central alley.
In the 90s of the last century, this park became a cult "party" place in the capital. Bohemia and informal groups of various directions gather here, as well as homeless people and gopniks. Usually, the meeting of those who came to the park to relax takes place at the monument to Griboyedov, then the whole company drinks beer and other "hot" drinks on the lawn.
For lovers of more cultural recreation The park has an aquarium. There is a lot to see there, but ticket prices are "biting", and don't count on a discount even if you are a student.
But if you come for a walk with a girl - "go broke", she will definitely like it in the aquarium. If you love more leisure, then go to the park at the All-Russian Exhibition Center.
Not a bad option go a couple of stations down to Oktyabrskaya and go to the Muzeon art park or a little further, to Shabolovskaya and take a walk in the boring garden.
Moscow, all year round
Clean ponds, shy lindens... Or willows? How right? Each of us at least once hummed this lyrical melody of Igor Talkov's song. And how many people know the sinister and bright history of this quarter of ancient Moscow, the romantic and mocking nature of this place? I was born and raised here. And I invite you to take a little walk...
So, where to start? ... Savva Ignatievich was looking for Khobotov, who had fled AWOL on skates, right here (although the scene was filmed, by the way, on the Patriarchs). And if this skating was real, the fool could not help but get caught, could not help falling during the next tour of the rink ... After all, a few steps from Chistoprudny Boulevard at the intersection with Pokrovka Street is the most dangerous and mystical intersection of Moscow. Local historians in a documentary television film on “True Mystical TVZ” said that here in the thirties, children’s cries and terrible moans were heard from under the ground (obviously, unfortunate homeless children who were digging rock deep underground for the Stalinist bunker), as after this stop the trams “ broke off the chain”, a certain force shattered the windshield, and the enraged train, not obeying the car driver, rushed right up to the Yauza ... Here the dogs, for no reason, began to snap at the owners. Here people fell dead for no apparent reason ...
My dears! .. This is all, of course, artistic semi-fiction. But in every bike there is both truth and a reflection of reality, and words and gossip just thickened the paint. For me, Chistye Prudy - native home. Because it was here that I was taken in a stroller, and here, in Ogorodnaya Sloboda Lane, I still live. So, as a native and historian, I will tell you what I can vouch for.
The most mystical crossroads of Moscow is indeed dangerous. Chemically contaminated groundwater and voids with negative energy, created before the war as a result of work on the communications support of the Defense Committee, victims and unburied bodies, of course, cannot but influence what is happening here. The dark "funnel" at the crossroads is unstable. Sometimes it's just scary to come here, sometimes everything seems calm.
However, those who come here “with a light heart” have nothing to fear. If for some reason you are sad or you Bad mood, there are unresolved problems, you think about a certain conflict situation, to this tram stop better not to get close. The effect of the resonance of the place and your condition can be unsafe. But we won't stay here for long, will we?
Ask, what was there before? Let's look closely at the map of Moscow inside the Garden Ring. Chistoprudny Boulevard and Pokrovka Street are not connected directly, but rather form a “trident”, pointed towards Zamoskvorechye, that is, towards the Yauza and the Moscow River. Trident, rivers, nothing like that? Right. Poseidon, the god of the water element, more precisely, his Slavic incarnation Dazhdbog ruled here from time immemorial.
Near the current Turgenevskaya metro station, on a small hill, there was a “pantheon”, and the sacraments themselves took place at the warm sacred springs that poured into the Rachka River where the building of the old former hotel of the architect Stasov still stands, where the “trident” of the streets “gets upset”. By the way, without any rational reasons, it is here in the building of the city estate of the late 18th century with bas-reliefs of the Sea Elder Proteus (remember the Iliad and the island near north coast Egypt, where did Odysseus go?) is the administration of one of the divisions of the Mosvodokanal.
Slavic mysteries, bathing in healing waters, wreaths on the water ... This continued until the lands were transferred to the possessions of the noble boyar Kuchka, who founded the forerunner of the future Moscow in the area of \u200b\u200bthe current Sretenka. How he angered the then overlord of Vladimir-Suzdal Rus' is unknown. But Prince Yuri Dolgoruky came to his patrimony with a punitive expedition. He killed a boyar, slaughtered his sons, raped his only daughter...
According to legend, the beaten girl walked down the aisle with the prince, “limping and groaning,” while the swollen corpses of her father and brothers floated in the sacred springs of Dazhdbog on the Rachka River. Since then, the place has become cursed ... And Prince Yuri invited his sidekick and ally Svyatoslav Olgovich “to the city of Moscow” and “a strong feast was given”, and at the same time, from the autumn of 1147, the official “annalistic part” of the history of Moscow was launched.
Centuries have passed. The ponds on the site of the swampy river and the springs that had gone deep began to be called cursed, they had a bad reputation. The bittern yelled at night, the blue gases escaping on the unsteady soils danced with unkind lights. Yes, and the place was deaf until the time of Alexei Mikhailovich. The current lane Ogorodnaya Sloboda, where I live, has preserved the purpose of these lands for local historians: vegetables for the royal cuisine were grown here. On the neighboring Myasnitskaya Street, economic activity has unfolded. Cow yard, Cattle yard. Mooing and bleating were heard here around the clock. And the merchants already threw the waste of their production - skinned bones and all sorts of offal into Poganye Ponds. Wilderness, stink ... Horror. But the era of Peter's reforms turned this drowsy place over. Alexander Danilovich Menshikov acquired the property here.
He ordered the ponds to be put in order, cleaned, fenced. On the site of the former beds, the Moscow nobility began to settle, and the “semi-power ruler” himself ordered the construction of a magnificent temple. Here is what is said about him in the Historical Guide to the Famous Capital of the Russian State, published in 1831: “The legend has preserved the name of the Menshikov Tower, and therefore the church is still called that. The architecture of this tower is quite good, it was built in 1705 and exceeded Ivan the Great by one and a half sazhens. Unheard of audacity to rise above the main Kremlin bell tower! But under Petr Aleksashka, a lot of things got away with it. He even managed to fit the ideological base under this impudence of his: "the triumph of the national-state idea and secular art over the religious dogmas of the Middle Ages."
The Church of the Archangel Gabriel became a model and "experimental projector" for the future Peter and Paul Cathedral in St. tall building in what was then Moscow. Two slender octahedrons grew out of the quadrangle, as in the temples of the Naryshkin baroque. But the temple was also given new features: the entrance is marked by a portico with twisted columns and intricate volute-buttresses... The other day I went into the courtyard of the temple. That's where the silence, peace and light serenity.
But back to history. Lush herbal ornaments, garlands and sculptures of chubby angels adorn the facades. But the completion of the tower with a spire with a gilded copper sculpture of the Archangel Gabriel seemed completely unusual for contemporaries ... Oh, tempora, o mores! About times, about customs. But the lucky star betrayed his brightest. And when with his family he was already sent into exile in Berezov, in 1723 a terrible thunderstorm swept over the Mother See. Lightning struck the spire, a strong fire broke out, the tower was badly damaged. Only at the end of the century it was restored, and instead of an unusual spire for Muscovites, a no less unusual completion was placed. Somewhat reminiscent of an amphora with a spiral cut at the top, it is draped with large leaves and covered with gilding. Even in the days of Soviet atheism, the temple was not closed, since the Antioch Patriarchal Compound is located here, de jure the territory of a foreign state. Almost like an embassy.
Another one mystical story about the storm. Remember, a few years ago, a discussion broke out in the press and in society - who gave the order for the execution royal family? On the eve of the day of memory of the Romanovs on July 18, 2008, a heavy downpour swept over the capital. In the courtyard of the former City Palace of Pioneers (the Gothic mansion of the Vysotsky merchants of the 19th century), since 1970 there has been a monument to Lenin the high school student. Broken by a gust of wind, an old ash tree fell on the sculpture. The leader fell down from the pedestal, his copper head rolled back a couple of meters, his torso was practically not injured ... Since I live literally in the next house, I was the first journalist who photographed this spectacle, only when I arrived at work I shared the topic with colleagues. Radio, television, newspapers... For many, the answer to the question posed about the authorship of the execution order was obvious after that. A couple of years later, the statue was returned to the square. But every time I pass by her in the direction of the Chistye Prudy metro station, I see that the rough whitish “welding scar” on her neck is becoming more and more noticeable.
And, in order to close the topic of mysticism, I will tell you another well-known urban legend about Chistye Prudy. The merchant Kusovnikov once lived here with his wife. He was fabulously rich, but pathologically stingy at the same time. And he was so shaking for his savings that at night, afraid of thieves, he took a bag of banknotes, got into a cab and drove around the city with his wife. But one day he was forced to leave the city for a week on business. And he did not find anything better to hide the treasured bundle in the chimney.
The yard girl decided to heat the premises for the arrival of the owner, and ... The merchant's wife had a stroke. Yes, and he, having found out that it is impossible to restore banknotes (in those terms - like bonds) in a bank, went mad and died in the yard of his own house. Since then near the "trident" summer evenings, they say, a shaking old man appears in a funny cap that goes and says: “where is my money, my money is gone ...”.
And the one to whom he meets will certainly get problems in business, or even go bankrupt.
Come visit me! I will show you the same place “near Kharitonya in the alley”, where Tatyana Larina was brought to “an old aunt, who has been ill for four years in consumption”, and a tiny private zoo with pheasants and ponies on Makarenko Street,
and a foreign house, the famous "Tea Department" on Myasnitskaya with Chinese dragons, lanterns and delicious, unique smells ...
Do you want this story in a nutshell? Well, okay ... In a nutshell. This historical "fake" of Chinese architecture appeared like this. In 1896, Li Hongzhang, the Chinese ruler and diplomat, was supposed to come to Moscow for the coronation holidays. The heads of two competing Moscow firms, tea merchants with the same name as the Perlovs, pinned special hopes on his visit, at one of which the distinguished guest was supposed to stay. It was then that S. Perlov, who sought to have this honor given to him, and the idea was born to give his house on Myasnitskaya a Chinese look. For this purpose, the architects Gippius and Klein, who were famous for their stylizations, were invited. Nevertheless, the ruler preferred the hospitality of V. Perlov, staying at his mansion on Meshchanskaya. But S. Perlov did not remain in the loser either: the operetta facade became an excellent advertisement for his trade. And until now, going to this store is a real Chinese fairy tale.
Sculptures, sculptures… There are two of them on Chistoprudny Boulevard. A few years ago, for the visit of Nazarbayev, Muscovites were presented with a "gift" - a sculpture of the Kazakh poet and thinker Abai, surrounded by stone women… Or phallic symbols- You can't tell for the snow.
And for the sake of this CIS-political politeness, a dozen trees were cut down. Lovers of Moscow antiquity went to rallies - it was useless ... However, a thinker is a thinker, albeit from a neighboring state. He turned out to be so modest and harmonious in his calm pose that locals quickly got used to his presence, and the “singing crane” fountain, which Abay looks at, even gives the place a special charm.
By the way, the scandals around the sculptures began long before that. In 1919, at the beginning of the boulevard, according to the plan of monumental propaganda, a monument to the ideologist of anarchism Bakunin was erected. It was made in a fashionable then futuristic manner. But the anarchists raised a cry, not agreeing with such an interpretation of the appearance of their teacher. A protest petition was received by the Moscow City Council, and an article “Down with the scarecrow” appeared in the press. Indeed, the figure of Bakunin holding his own head in his hands could only be understood by a very great admirer of cubism. While the cultural commissars were thinking, another spontaneous rally was held near the statue. Lomoviks and cab drivers, numbering about five thousand, staged a demonstration demanding the dismantling of the monument, due to "the extreme deformity of which even half-blind horses shied away." The authorities heeded the proletarians of the horse-drawn transport more than the political outcasts, and went forward. In 1959, a monument to Alexander Griboyedov by the sculptor Manuylov appeared on this site with a stunning bas-relief of the characters of the immortal comedy around the plinth covered with a flag cloth. With the same sad smile as in life, the brilliant playwright looks at the modern Moscow vanity of vanities near the Chistye Prudy metro station.
And another scandal erupted recently. Two years ago, when it was also the time to tune in to a dreamy mood, passers-by literally shied away from the “decoration” presented to us by the overseas avant-garde artist. Right in the center of the reservoir, he launched four pairs of white ... translucent female legs.
Not live synchronized swimming. The figures of the performers of the "dance of the little swans" lowered their heads into the pond. Something from the realm of artistic fantasies kept afloat like on a raft on the tutus of those very drowned ballerinas. “Some kind of nonsense ... - a young man shared his emotions, he looks like a businessman, - they are in vain.” The answer was found in the newspaper "Metro", lying right there on the bench. It turns out that an American artist, a certain Mark Jenkins, expressed himself in this way in our city with sculptures made of adhesive tape: “When I take my sculptures out into the street, everything around becomes art. And it's not my job to explain why and why. Everyone must search for the meaning himself. On one diagnosis, he has already stuck with adhesive tape - the guy has all the signs of megalomania. Unrecognized genius at home? What a blessing that his work drowned in the pond immediately after the first more or less serious snowfall, and the workers of Mosvodokanal raked out the remains of the masterpiece along with other garbage. Who allowed someone else's art eccentricity to be squeezed into our native urban environment? Let's leave this question as a test before the elections: officials for money are able to allow to fuck up anything.
Chistye Prudy... Ominous glory, a prestigious quarter, romantic dates, ducks... It is impossible to tear yourself away from the magical calming picture of the reflection of autumn leaves in this water surface. Maybe they will forgive us, the current ones, history, the mistakes and shameless actions of our ancestors Maybe ... If we ourselves love these Amazing places our childhood and be pure in heart. If we love our small homeland the way I love my Chistye Prudy.
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There are many places in Moscow that are perceived ambiguously. One of them is Chistye Prudy. In the middle of the wide Chistoprudny Boulevard, there is a clear pond, surrounded by old lindens, chestnuts, well-groomed bushes and neat lawns. Informal youth, fans of some football teams, just fans of hanging out, singing along with the guitar and laughing out loud like to gather here. The pond is surrounded old quarters and a few modern buildings that organically fit into the urban landscape. Above the pond and the small park adjacent to it, the energy of the old Moscow place reigns, filled with a bright and unique history.
The emergence of the pond dates back to the end of the 16th century. Moscow grew, new squares were built up and populated. The buildings erected at that time cut the small river Rachka, which previously flowed in the area of the pond. As a result, part of the river simply dried up. And the swampy part of the area, left by the former river and fed by numerous streams, gradually formed a pond.
It was originally called Pogany. Not far from it was (and is now in the same place) Myasnitskaya street. The butchers who lived on it, who fed the whole of Moscow with meat, were engaged in slaughtering and butchering the carcasses of livestock. They dumped all the waste from their activities into the pond. The water there was always a dirty brown color and exuded a fetid smell, which was especially unbearable in the summer heat. The townspeople tried to avoid this place.
Everything changed during the time of Peter I, when his associate Alexander Menshikov acquired not far from filthy pond luxury mansion. The view of the pond and the stinking smell coming from it did not please the royal favorite, and he ordered to clear the pond. After the bottom and banks of the reservoir were cleaned, Menshikov forbade the use of the pond for dumping waste from Myasnitskaya Street, and the pond itself was renamed Chistye Prudy (although there was always one pond).
Over time, Chistye Prudy became a place of rest for the townspeople. In the summer it was possible to go boating and swimming here, in the winter ice skating was arranged. From the middle of the 20th century, boating was banned, and swans and ducks settled on the calm surface of the pond, whose offspring still live there.
Now Chistye Prudy is called not only the reservoir itself, but also the park area adjacent to it. The nearby metro station bears the same name. This place, like no other, keeps the memory of the old days.
Despite the seeming tranquility, this place keeps the memory of the terrible events of history that it witnessed. It was here that during the time of Ivan the Terrible, more than 100 boyars, accused of treason, suffered a painful death. This happened on the banks of the Rachka River, long before the appearance of the pond. Even earlier, on the banks of the Rachka, there was an ancient temple of pagans, which was destroyed during the time of Christianity. Like any other, this temple possessed powerful power and its destroyers, who threw the sacred attributes of pagan worship into the water of Rachka and set fire to everything that burned, were severely punished for their deeds.
All these events could not but leave a trace on the long-suffering land of this place. Subtle natures feel anxiety, fear here, try not to linger in the vicinity of the pond. In addition, natural water sources have dried up. Now the pond is being filled with tap water, which also does not have the best effect on the energy emitted by this place.
But for those who just want to be near the water and enjoy beautiful view, Chistye Prudy is a real oasis in the center of a noisy metropolis.
