Excursions in Istanbul on your own. Gastronomic tours in Istanbul in Russian. Tram stop - Kabatas
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Gulshat Zakirova
There is no other way to discover new places that evokes as much emotion as walking with local resident capable of showing the innermost corners of his city. My recent trip to Istanbul for the wedding of a close friend can be compared to re-reading your favorite book - the plot and characters are familiar for a long time, but as soon as you take a fresh look, the story sounded completely different.
On the eve of the wedding, me and the bride's relatives were invited to dinner in the family of Turker - the groom. The future relatives of my friend greeted us warmly and seated us at the table with treats. Dishes changed one after another in an accelerated mode, and while I was leaning on bereki, traditional puff pastry pastries stuffed with cheese and meat, delicious sweet peppers baked in the oven and drenched in yogurt, which I left for a snack, had already been taken away. After about forty minutes, we had eaten our fill, and we were invited to sit on the sofa and drink tea with homemade baklava. Only then they began to ask us if we had been to Turkey before what we were doing, what we managed to see in Istanbul.
As it turned out later, in Turkey it is not customary to talk at the table: eat until it gets cold. And conversations are conducted over tea, which, according to tradition, is drunk in several glasses per evening. How different it is from our feasts with unhurried conversations under a glass - another and not tea at all.
The next day, we were very worried, while my friend and her chosen one were getting married according to Muslim laws, that is, they were undergoing the rite of "nikah". The marriage is concluded by a mullah, only two witnesses are allowed to the ceremony - always men. A small festive dinner, where women sat separately from men, completed the official part of the day, and within a couple of hours after gaining a new status, my friend and her husband were in a hurry to show us the city. It is worth noting here that the real wedding, which gathered more than 350 guests, took place a couple of months later. The official registration of marriage in the registry office was a few days before the “nikah” and was much less important for the spouses than a religious ceremony.
We didn’t have much time to get acquainted with the luxurious imperial Istanbul, so we immediately went to the city center to Sultanahmet Square. Climbing a steep hill in one of the cobbled streets of Istanbul, we were puzzled when Turker invited us to enter a wooden door with holes in it, which was indicated by the sign “Painting exhibition”. What was our surprise when behind this unsightly entrance was a workshop and an exhibition of works by the famous Turkish artist Ilhami Atalay! Having got acquainted with the master himself, who came out to us in a dressing gown stained with paint, having warmed himself at the stove, having examined the oriental motley, full of rich colors of the picture, we went further.
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Even on this day, we took the funicular to the observation deck over the Golden Horn Bay, dined at fish restaurant with very affordable prices (while less knowledgeable tourists ate the same fish at exorbitant prices in a nearby establishment), rode along the Bosphorus and admired the magnificent sunset over Sea of Marmara. And throughout it all long day we did not leave the feeling that our guide meets his acquaintances everywhere. Not understanding Turkish conversations, we were sure that they were charging for parking, indicating the best way to get to the sights, and good friends of Turker weighed "with a slide" Turkish delight in the market. Our astonishment knew no bounds when it turned out that they were all strangers to him. Such is the mentality here: a compatriot is almost a brother, and this equally applies to residents small village, and to the inhabitants of an almost European metropolis - Istanbul.
Istanbul - magnificent city with very ancient history. Many call it the "Cradle of Civilization", and this very accurately reflects reality: artifacts from all times and peoples of our civilization, starting with the Egyptians, are concentrated here. Many people travel the world cheap. Turkish airlines with a change in Istanbul. In this case, it is not difficult to take two different ones instead of one ticket with a transfer and stay at least a day and a half in Istanbul. Please note that there are 2 airports in Istanbul: "Ataturk" near the center and "Sabiha Gokcen" far on the outskirts.
This is where you need to start your acquaintance with Istanbul. The program is designed for 1.5 days.
A stunning museum on 4 floors, representing all times, starting with the Egyptians. It consists of three museums - the main building, the museum ancient east and the Tiled Pavilion - and contains more than a million exhibits from various eras. Entrance 20 lire (7.5 dollars) open 9-19.
Living in the center of Istanbul is expensive. For example, a bed in a 6-bed room will cost from $12 (with breakfast). It is better to take care of accommodation in advance, for example, through the booking.com website.
I have wanted to visit Istanbul for a long time. And here is a chance I had, even if only for one day. There are many sights in Istanbul, and you can’t see everything in one day. Therefore, I had to choose. I really wanted to see the oceanarium, but for the first time it was decided in favor of a walk through the historical part of the city.
I always thought that a walk around Istanbul in November is a chance to see the city without crowds of tourists, after all, it’s not the season. But I was wrong. There are a lot of tourists there. At 7 am, getting off at the Sultanahmet tram stop, we managed to wander around the almost empty city for an hour. Then people began to arrive, buses brought groups of Chinese and elderly Germans. By lunchtime, there was simply nowhere for an apple to fall. Huge queues lined up for all the sights.
The weather in Istanbul in November is deceptive. It was cold in the morning, I even put on a scarf, hat and gloves. And at noon, at least go in one T-shirt. The temperature in the morning is 11 degrees, in the afternoon above 20. Green and blooming city you won't see in November. For this, you need to go to Istanbul in April - May, when the Tulip Festival takes place. That's when the city is buried in flowers. Nevertheless, Istanbul is colorful at any time of the year.
So, Istanbul is located on the banks of the Bosphorus Strait, bridges across which separate Europe and Asia here. Until 1930 the city was called Constantinople. The vast majority of the inhabitants are Muslims, so at every step you can meet mosques and hear the singing of the mullah calling for prayer. If I'm not mistaken, there are only about 3 thousand mosques in Istanbul!
Our walk started from the hippodrome square next to the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, where three famous monuments stand:
Next to the obelisks is the entrance to blue mosque- one of the main symbols of the city. This huge mosque with six minarets was built in 7 years (1609-1616) with money from the treasury of the 19-year-old Sultan Ahmet. The young sultan wanted to propitiate Allah and emphasize his belonging to Islam. However, he died a year after the construction of the mosque at the age of 27 from typhus. His crypt is located next to the Blue Mosque. The mosque got its name for decorating the interior with blue tiles. Entrance to the mosque is free.
We leave the mosque and get to Sultanahmet Square. Most a large number of tourists accumulate here. But in the early morning there are not so many people. But street vendors and barkers on excursions are already here.
Sultanahmet Square. Trader of Turkish bagels - simits.
Sultanahmet Square is very beautiful. On the one hand, it is decorated Blue Mosque, and on the other hand the famous Hagia Sophia - Hagia Sophia Museum. This is a former Orthodox cathedral, founded by Emperor Alexander the Great, which, after the capture of the city, was turned into a mosque. Four minarets were added to the cathedral, and Christian frescoes were plastered over. And only in 1935 the wise Attaturk made a museum out of it. The frescoes and mosaics have been restored. Today, Christian and Muslim images coexist in the museum. Unfortunately, we did not manage to get inside this time because of the huge queues. Admired only from the outside:
We move on. Another attraction in the immediate vicinity is. It's ancient underground reservoir Constantinople. Reserve was kept here drinking water in case of a city siege. There is still water in the cistern, although not so much. But freshwater fish swim in it, there are quite large specimens.
Many tourists come here to the weeping column for the fulfillment of desires and to the head of the Gorgon Medusa, shrouded in many legends.
We head towards the Galata Bridge.
The Galata Bridge spans the Golden Horn and connects the old and new European parts of Istanbul. It is always crowded here and ferries and boats depart from here for a walk along the Bosphorus.
There is a unique and memorable atmosphere on the embankment near the Galata Bridge. Something is fried, sold, juggling, fishing, inviting somewhere.
On the Galata Bridge itself, there are a huge number of fishermen catching small fish. The bridge is two-level. On the upper level there is a roadway and fishermen, on the lower level there are restaurants. Walking along the lower part of the bridge, you see in front of you a lot of fishing lines from the upper level. On the other side of the bridge, you can walk along a small fish market and climb the Galata Tower. In the area of the Galata Bridge, a famous Turkish dish is sold everywhere - balyk ekmek. This is fried fish in half a loaf with vegetables, onions and lemon sauce. To be honest, balyk ekmek did not impress, but, probably, it depends on the cook.
Back in Old city and moving in the direction from the bridge, we got to the Egyptian market. We walked along the rows with Turkish sweets, dried fruits, spices, teas and nuts. It could be a fun walk, if not for the main drawback - a lot of people.
Gulhane Park is a historical city park next to the Topkapı Palace. Once upon a time, only the Sultan, his wives and close associates could admire him. In those days, many beautiful roses were grown here. Now there are many benches, fountains, gazebos and bridges. But the park is especially beautiful in the spring, when everything blooms and many flowers are planted here.
Unfortunately, we did not have the opportunity to meet the sunset here and spend the evening in one of the restaurants near the Galata Bridge. Therefore, we got into the Istanbul tram and moved towards the airport. Next time, and I'm sure there will be more, I will definitely add the Istanbul Oceanarium to the list of places to visit.
I marked all the places I described on the map:
Despite its huge size, it has several compact historical districts, so walking around the city on your own is quite realistic. You just need to plan your itinerary well.
The main attractions of Istanbul are concentrated in Sultanahmet area(and next to it). Therefore, if you are limited in time, go only to this area. Here you will see an underground reservoir "" and. And on the shores of the Golden Horn Bay, there is an old railway station, the terminal station of the Orient Express. All these sights of Istanbul can be seen independently in one day. For more details, see our route Excursions "" - it is dedicated specifically to the Sultanahmet district.
Our route in the Beyoglu area is marked with a red marker. The dotted line indicates funicular rides.
If you can allocate more time for excursions around Istanbul, then after the Sultanahmet district the next day it is best to go and get acquainted with Beyoglu district. This part of the city is located on the other side of the Golden Horn from the Sultanahmet district. You can get there by crossing the bay on foot along the Galata Bridge or by driving the same distance on the high-speed tram-metro.
What can you see in the Beyoglu area? Here on the Galata hill is the "Tunel" - one of the oldest underground funiculars in the world, which will take you to the top of this hill, pedestrian and main Town Square city of Taksim. A little aside, at the foot of a hill on the shore of the Bosphorus, is the second main palace Istanbul - Dolmabahce. It takes a long time to walk to it, so it is better to drive here by tram-metro. You can also go down to the palace from Taksim Square on another underground funicular (it’s called the funicular). You can also see all the main attractions of the Beyoglu region and its environs in 1 day.
is not just huge covered market, this is a whole city, with its streets and squares.
Our route in the Beyazit area is marked with a red marker. The dotted line indicates the road to the aqueduct, we did not go to it, but it is worth seeing.
If you can find one more day for self-guided tours in Istanbul, then on the third day you can visit Beyazit district located near Sultanahmet. Of the interesting things, there is a central large one, Beyazit Square (it houses a mosque, a mausoleum and the main old complex University of Istanbul, on the territory of which there are many interesting buildings, the entrance is free). From Istanbul University, you can walk to the Suleymaniye Mosque (one of the largest and beautiful mosques city, it is necessary to go inside). Next to the mosque is another interesting attraction - the ancient aqueduct. By the way, it has survived quite well. Returning back to the Suleymaniye Mosque, you can walk further towards Eminonu Square, where the new Yeni Cami Mosque, the “Egyptian Bazaar” of spices, the pier and the Sirkeci train station are located.
Naturally, the rest free time you can ride a boat along the Bosphorus (you can board a pleasure boat at the Eminonu pier) or visit one of shopping centers city (we recommend visiting the Forum shopping center, you can get to it by metro).
I continue my story about independent travel across Turkey.
I decided to spend the second day in Istanbul more calmly. Planned for myself a visit to the Galata Tower, the Grand Bazaar and a ferry ride to the Eyup area. Next on the program is the funicular ride up the hill, which offers a picturesque view of the Golden Horn Bay.
In total, today I will have at least two observation decks, which I adore and try to find an opportunity to climb higher in every city.
If you have not yet read my reports on the first day spent in Istanbul, then welcome - and.
Galata tower.
The tower was built in the 14th century to watch over the entrance of the Bosphorus.
Well, let's go and watch 🙂 .
The tower can be reached by tram, but I decided to walk along the Galata Bridge again to see the fishermen who were crazy about their hobby. Amazing people!
Narrow winding streets lead to the tower.
From time to time the tower is lost between the houses, but I orientate myself by some “gardens” and make my way to it.
Entrance costs 25 lire. For this money, you do not have to walk upstairs. Enter the elevator, a couple of seconds and you are already at the highest point.
There is a cafe on the top floor of the Galata Tower. The most favorite tables of visitors, of course, are by the window.
Here it is, Istanbul, with a 360-degree view. The photo is hard to see, but there, on the horizon, the Sea of Marmara is already visible.
Istanbul is divided not only by the Bosphorus. The Golden Horn Bay also brings its share of traffic jams. He is in the photo below. Why the bay has such a name, I will tell you a little later.
On the left is the Bosphorus, on the right is the Golden Horn. And there in the distance is the Sea of Marmara and the entrance to the Bosphorus.
Turned Google Maps upside down on purpose to show the vantage point.
In the morning, I did not even suspect that in the evening I would again be near the Galata Tower. But more on that later.
Eyup area. Observation deck.
Since there are a lot of berths in Istanbul, ferries are not so easy to deal with. For a very long time I could not figure out where the ferries to Eyup depart from. For the same pioneers, I enclose a map.
The two red dots on the map are the ferry landings to Eyup. If you are on the Eminenu pier, then you need to go far beyond the Galata Bridge. The pier will be near the parking lot.
If you are on the other side of the Golden Horn, that is, on the Kadikoy pier, the desired pier will be to the left of the bridge.
There are no token matics nearby, so you need to take care of buying a token in advance. There is always a schedule on the pier. Thus, it can be calculated that the travel time from Kadikoy to Eyüp is 40 minutes.
The ferry plays a role fixed-route taxi, cruising from coast to coast, constantly crossing the Golden Horn Bay. Such a transfer can be used as boat trip. The cost of the trip is standard - 4 lira.
The ferry is much smaller than yesterday's pleasure one, but there is also a cafeteria with delicious tea.
A few photographs.
A real submarine, only an old one.
On the pier I take a picture of the ferry schedule as a keepsake and go to the funicular. There is an opinion that Eyup is one of the most religious districts of Istanbul. I can neither confirm nor deny this opinion. Here I felt as comfortable as in the tourist Sultanahmet.
Teleferik nothing more than a funicular. It is located at the foot of the hill a little further from the pier.
Guess the cost of the funicular ride? That's right - 4 lira.
I forgot to say that the hillside is a Muslim cemetery. personally me given fact didn't bother at all. Then I even slowly joined the French tourist group and walked with them through the cemetery.
At the top of the hill is the famous coffee house Pierre Loti with a very picturesque terrace. The observation deck is nearby.
The Golden Horn Bay is so named because of its steep bend.
It's cold in Istanbul tourist season has not started yet, so almost all the tables in the cafe are free.
And here is large group French comrades, with whom I went down to the pier.
Of course, it was possible to use the funicular again, but walking is much more interesting.
Grand Bazaar.
Whether you plan to shop at the Grand Bazaar or not, it's worth stopping by. The large market is attractive primarily for its color. The range of goods is quite diverse: leather goods, carpets, dishes, clothes, jewelry.
The construction of the market began in 1453, at one time it was even the center of the slave trade.
And I kept walking, looking at the beautiful ceiling, absolutely not paying attention to the local barkers.
By the way, in the Grand Bazaar area, the most profitable currency exchange.
After visiting the Grand Bazaar, I didn’t have any special plans left, but the daylight was not even going to end in the evening and I had to come up with something.
It was then that a “brilliant” idea came to my mind - to see the Sea of Marmara. On the map, the distances seemed quite sane. I had to cross the Sultanahmet area and get off at Kennedy Cadesi.
In fact, it turned out that the entire avenue was closed by some kind of construction site. I saw the Sea of Marmara only from afar.
As I walked towards the sea, I looked around. It seemed to me that the price level in this part of Sultanahmet is somewhat lower.
I don't know what kind of houses they are, but they are very nice.
A walk along the embankment did not work out for me and I decided to return to the Blue Mosque. I didn't have time to see everything yesterday. Right behind the mosque is the Hippodrome square. Another name is Sultanahmet Square.
In ancient times, horse races were held on the square, stands for spectators stood on both sides. Today, treadmills are under a five-meter layer of earth.
There are two obelisks in the square. I recognized one of the obelisks, it is from the Karnak temple. When we were in, the guide told the group about this obelisk.
At the entrance to the square is the German Fountain. If you look inside, you can see a gilded mosaic.
By this time, I was pretty hungry and decided to move towards the Galata Bridge to eat at one of the fish restaurants.
Passing by the park, Gulhane decided to stop by for a while. Near the entrance is a fountain-book.
I think it must be wonderful here in the summer. In early spring greenery is not enough.
In Istanbul, there is nowhere to hide from chestnuts, boiled corn and bagels. Even in the park.
I did not choose a special restaurant on the Galata Bridge. I went to the one that seemed to me prettier.
IN good weather nice to sit outside. I chose interior as it was quite cold and windy.
In Turkish cafes and restaurants, all waiters and cooks are men. Perhaps such work is considered exclusively male in Turkey. Girls work as cashiers in stores, but I have never seen adult working women.
After lunch and dinner, I thought for a while about what to do with myself. The legs asked for a hotel, and the soul demanded spectacles (there were no problems with bread at all). Having expanded the map of Istanbul and having studied the sights again, I decided to look at the old aqueduct.
Aqueduct of Valens.
Everything would be fine, only the city began to rapidly plunge into twilight. I made my way to the aqueduct through some Turkish slums, wandered for a long time and finally saw it.
The Valens Aqueduct is part of the Istanbul water supply system. The bridge, as it were, connects two hills, and pipes for water were previously laid along the top. The building was built in the III century. Just think how old he is!
Special illumination gives ancient building some special charm and I was even glad that I decided to look at the aqueduct in the evening.
