Gramvousa and balos or the longest day in Greece. Excursion to Gramvousa Island
An excursion to the island of Gramvousa is usually carried out in conjunction with a visit to Balos Bay, which I will discuss in the next article. In some travel agencies, it is also called "Excursion to confluence of three seas". A trip to the Gramvusa is rightfully considered an element compulsory program anyone who came to Crete. The most western point islands, the confluence of three seas with different colors of water, a Venetian fortress. All this leaves an unforgettable impression of the trip! But first things first.
Where is Gramvousa
If you look closely at the map, you will see that there are two islands with the name of Gramvousa. One - Agria Gramvousa(in translation - wild Gramvusa) in the north, and Imeri Gramvousa(i.e. "tamed Gramvousa") in the south. north island has always been and remains uninhabited, and has no historical or natural value. A south island, located in a better place, is just the subject of our trip.
Imeri Gramvousa Island
How to get to Gramvousa Island
Which is logical, you can only get to the island by sea. The main mode of transport is the ferry departing from the port in the city of Kissamos, which is the most western city Crete.
Ferry schedules vary depending on the season. But mostly, they leave once or twice around 10 am. It is also worth remembering that in tourist season there are so many people who want to visit the island that you will not have a chance to come and buy a ticket on the spot before departure. Online booking I didn't find any timetables for ferries in this direction.
Therefore, if you arrived at the peak of the season, then probably the only optimal way there will be a purchase of a tour to the island from one of the many travel agencies on the island. Because going to the port to buy a ticket will be more expensive than paying 10-15 euros for the services of a tour operator.
But if you arrived, as we did, in October or later, then there will be no such influx. And you can safely come to the port and take a ticket for the nearest ferry. The port has a large free parking so you can also come with a rented car. Just consider the distance. Still, this is practically the very edge of the island, and if you live somewhere in the Heraklion region, then the road to Kissamos will take more than two hours.
Other ferries that carry tourists to Gramvusa
There is also an option to rent a boat or arrange with the locals to take you to the island on an individual basis. But as I understand it, this is already a special case, which is not typical.
Travel by ferry
I'll tell you a little about the ferry itself. He's really big. I would say that it fits more than 500 people. The ferry is double-deck. The lower deck is almost completely closed, while the upper one, on the contrary, is covered with a canopy only in the central part.
On upper deck ferry
There are no tickets, so you can sit anywhere. But remember the sun. The ferry takes about an hour to the island. I personally managed to burn pretty decently during this time.
There is also a cafe on the ferry. At lunch you can eat normally. After all, you won’t have any other options to buy something.
Off the northwest coast of Crete, where the Mediterranean has the cleanest water, there are two uninhabited islets.
Their common name is Gramvusa.
But they also have another, more romantic nickname - pirate island.
At the end of the 16th century, at an altitude of 250 meters above the sea, one of the most impregnable fortresses in Crete was built here, and even the most famous Mediterranean pirate, Barbarossa, used to visit here.
How to get there
A visit to the pirate island is included in the tour plan to the Bay of Ballos (about the Balos lagoon), they are located nearby.
Tour price is usually 50–60 euros, and it includes travel to Kissamos, from where a pleasure boat leaves for Ballos Bay and the island of Gramvousa.
The price also includes a light lunch on the ship, a stop in the bay and landing on the island of Gramvousa, on the part where the ancient fortress is located. The entrance to the fortress is free.
From to Kissamos every 45–60 minutes Shuttle Buses, to go about an hour, the fare is 6 euros.
Those wishing to visit the island on their own must get to the port of Kissamos, where buses run from different settlements, and then take a ticket (20 euros) for one of the boats.
Excursion ships depart from 10 o'clock, to the island of Gramvousa by sea - about an hour's journey. From the place where the ships moor on the island, there is a hiking trail almost 850 m long to the fortress.
History of the islands
The Venetians built a fortress in the 70s-80s of the 16th century, the building can be called an excellent example of the art of military architecture.
The location of the fortress made it possible to defend well against attacks, as well as control the strait between western Crete (read all about the island) and the Peloponnese peninsula, guaranteeing safety in the local waters.
More than 100 years later, in 1691, the Turks nevertheless managed to conquer the fortress, not without the help of traitors who were seduced by big money. The Turks began to complete the construction of the fortress and remake it in their own way, equipping it with 70 guns.
It took the Cretans more than 130 years to recapture it, turning it into main object focused on fighting the invaders.
The fortress was built in the shape of a triangle, each side was almost a kilometer long, and on all sides the fortress was protected by high walls - two from the sea and one from the land.
Territory overview
Today Gramvusa is popular tourist attraction, which attracts hundreds of people a day.
Arriving on the island, you can stay on the beach and swim. The beaches here are wild, the bottom is rocky, but the water is clear, shimmering in various shades - from light blue to rich emerald.
The atmosphere of the pirate past is emphasized by a half-submerged ship not far from the coast.. There are several versions of its crash, but the most popular one says that the ship belonged to drug traffickers and was sunk by order of the Greek coastal security service.
Fortress of Gramvousa
But, of course, it is simply necessary to overcome the path to the fortress.
Climbing is not easy, especially if you walk in the heat, which sometimes reaches +40 degrees.
Look carefully under your feet - the steps are destroyed in some places, but the view from above is worth the effort. From here you can see from above how three seas merge.
Passing through the old gate, next to which is located a marble Griffin of the Greco-Roman period, you will come to large area with the remains of Venetian and Turkish buildings.
Looking down is a little scary - the fortress is located on a cliff 137 meters high, but truly unforgettable experience.
In. name: english Gramvousa
Gramvousa - common name two small islands at the northwestern part. Tourist excursions organize at Imeri Gramvusa or « Calm Gramvousa." The second island, Agria ("Wild") Gramvousa, is unremarkable, except for the fact that it is inhabited by many birds different types, and ship access to it is limited by underwater rocks.
Therefore, in this article we will talk about the island of Imeri Gramvusa, which in all tourist booklets is simply referred to as "Gramvusa".
In 1691, the fortress was sold to the Turks for a lot of money, but after that it was repeatedly attacked by the Cretan rebels. In 1825, their attempts were crowned with success, and the island became the center of pirate activity of three hundred rebels. They had no means of subsistence, and the only way out was to attack Turkish, Egyptian and European ships. The population of the island began to grow, a school and a church appeared here.
By 1828, piracy on the island had been eradicated by the Greek rulers, but the fame of the "pirate" island still attracts hundreds of tourists every day. summer season. The island is currently uninhabited.
1. Climbing to the top of the cliff is quite difficult - it's about half an hour uphill movement along a stone path under the scorching sun.
If you are not ready for such a load, it is better to relax on the beach below.
2. There is practically no shade at the top and a strong wind is possible. Naturally, there are no toilets or points of sale for drinks either - stock up on hats and water. Bonus - the views from the top are really impressive. It captures the spirit from the opened picture of the sea element against the backdrop of wild rocks.
3. From the shore you can see the skeleton of a pirate ship to the left of the main beach. It is not ancient at all - according to one version, it sank near the island in the 1980s and belonged to drug dealers.
4. There are few buildings on the island - the chapel of the Holy Apostles, a mobile tray with shell souvenirs and toilets.
Sunbeds and umbrellas are not available. You can hide from the sun only under rare trees.
5. The only beach suitable for swimming on the island is rocky, the bottom is not the most pleasant for entry. Take special shoes. At strong wind waves on the sea are possible, and swimming is not always comfortable.
See short video- Gramvousa from above
The end of the story of Yana Polezhaeva about her vacation in Greece, on the island of Crete in the village of Amudara. Last days Greek vacations and excursions that have been dreamed of for a long time. Links to previous parts of the review are at the end of the article. This review was written for a contest.
Excursions in Crete: Hersonissos, Balos, Gramvousa, Samaria Gorge
Day five and six - Weekend
Finally, the wind stopped, the sun peeked out from behind the clouds, and the calm sea opened its tender arms to me.
“I won’t be able to come home brown, I’ll come red or shabby, but not white!” I firmly decided.
For two days I sunbathed (ekana iliotherapy) and swam (ekana banyo).
The water temperature was 19-20 degrees, which is warmer than in our Ural river Came in July Here, by the way, there is also a rivulet, called Almiros (Salty).
Until 12 o'clock I lay on the seashore, and after three I continued "iliotherapy" on the roof of the hotel, where the prudent administrator spread out sun loungers and filled the pool.
I was lying on a Greek roof, under a Greek sky, with a bottle of Greek beer in my hand, and Greece was inside and around me. What else do you need to be happy!
Day seven - Hersonissos
Today I have planned independent trip in the city of Hersonnisos. There are two sights in Hersonnissos that I dream of visiting - a museum under open sky Lychnostatis and Reptile Rescue Center.
Armed with the map that Yana drew for this occasion, at seven in the morning I hit the road. First sat on local bus and drove to the bus station of Heraklion. There is a printed timetable at the bus station intercity buses which you can take. Hersonissos is passed by buses heading west to Malia and beyond. Since I did not know which bus I needed, at the ticket office of the bus station I asked for one ticket to Hersonissos, Lychnostatis. I was asked for what time, I answered that now.
The ticket indicates the departure time of the bus and its number. Intercity buses always green or cream (urban ones are always blue), the bus number is on the windshield. From which platform your bus departs, you can find out on the electronic scoreboards, of which there are several. The platform number appears next to the bus number when the bus is approaching for boarding.
At eight in the morning at the bus station there were only Greeks going to work and me.
The bus arrived on time, a Greek conductor came up to its door, looking more like a bouncer than a conductor, and started shouting something loudly in the direction of the station. We all - me and the Greeks - tried to give him our tickets, but he did not pay any attention to this, and then completely ran away to the station. We got on the bus and sat down. After some time, our conductor came running, jumped into the bus and again began to shout something, waving his arms, but now to us. He loudly listed several names, among which I caught Hersonissos, and half of the passengers began to get off the bus. I am behind them. We got off, the bus closed the doors and left with the remaining passengers. I was left on the platform in complete confusion, with a bunch of Greeks and an already expired ticket. It looks like my journey may end before it even begins...
But then a bus without a number drove up to our platform and my Greeks rushed into it. I am behind them.
— Hersonissos? I asked the conductor as I got on the bus. He waved his hand into the cabin.
— Hersonissos, Lychnostatis? I asked the bus driver as I moved inside. She nodded happily.
The girl driver famously drove the bus along the serpentine and, without ceasing, talked on the mobile phone.
Somewhere in the middle of Hersonissos, all my fellow travelers left, and I was left with a couple of stops. The girl-driver asked me to wait a bit while she runs away for coffee and buns.))) In parting, I asked permission to take her photo.
Lychnostatis Museum
Lychnostatis– an open-air museum of Cretan life, amazing place with a unique atmosphere. Opening hours from 9 am to 2 pm. The ticket costs 5 euros. In addition to the ticket, I was given an audio guide in Russian and a map, and I went to feel the local aura.
Entrance to the Lychnostatis Museum
Tavern "Lychnostatis"
It really is a place filled with history, as if the souls of all these things, these people in the photographs live here ... A downpour caught me in an old school building. On the wall, to strange music, old photographs of teachers, students and a school that no longer exists were broadcast in an eternal circle. I waited out the rain, sitting at a desk in the old class, and felt how they were all sitting next to me.
It is impossible to talk about Lychnostatis… I just highly recommend visiting!
Aquarium in Hersonissos
To the next destination - the Reptile Rescue Center (or simply the Aquarium) - you need to go through the whole of Hersonissos in reverse direction, it's about three kilometers along the main street. central Street at 12 o'clock was a cluster of cars, scooters and people. For three kilometers I made my way along narrow sidewalks through crowds of Russian tourists going to the beach. They say that nice beach is located somewhere on the edge of Hersonissos, and the rest of the coast is rocky. But what are the hotels here! However, I still prefer Amoudara with its pensioner hotels, unhurried European tourists and a three-kilometer sandy beach!
The Reptile Rescue Center is located in a private house, not far from bus stop No. 20. Starts working at 10 o'clock. The entrance ticket costs 6 euros. Buying an entrance ticket, you become a friend of the terrarium and then you can come for free. There are few animals, but most of them can be touched. Visitors are mostly with children. Turtles crawl underfoot.
I was immediately put on some cute little lizard for a selfie.
And then - a very large lizard ...
It was lunchtime and I was relieved to find that most lizards are vegetarians.
The owner loves his animals very much, and if you know English, he can tell you a lot of interesting things from the life of his wards.
On the way from Hersonnissos to Heraklion in the town of Gouves is the Cretan Oceanarium. I planned to visit him as part of this trip. But today was so filled with impressions that I decided to postpone the Oceanarium for the next time. And one more reason to return to Crete.
Day 8 - Balos Lagoon and Gramvousa Islands
The Balos lagoon is located on the western tip of the island of Crete and, according to local beliefs, is the place where three seas merge - the Ionian, Aegean (locally Cretan) and Libyan. On the Internet, the Balos lagoon is called the most beautiful place islands of Crete. The Gramvousa Islands are two uninhabited islets located there.
The cost of the tour is 36 euros, lunch on the ship is 19 euros. Almost three hours on the bus, one and a half on the ship and we are on one of the islands of Gramvousa. I was lucky to meet a girl from Perm on the bus who, like me, traveled alone. Her name in Greek is Aggiya, which means "holy." During conversations, five hours of travel flew by unnoticed. I haven't spoken so much in Russian all week. On the island of Gramvousa, we were given an hour to climb the mountain and take pictures against the backdrop of the views, or stay below and take a dip in the waters of the sea. We decided to do everything.
There is a flag on the mountain, just where the most gorgeous view. In order not to waste time, you need to run immediately to him. The view is truly amazing!
After taking plenty of pictures, we rushed down to plunge into the sea.
The next stop of our ship was Balos Bay. The visit plan is the same as in the previous parking lot - a mountain with views, a lagoon with awesome water and an hour of time for everything.
We, in turn, also decided not to deviate from the beaten track and do everything. To get to the mountain, you need to cross the lagoon. We walked through it white sand and the warm, shallow water warmed our feet. The mountain turned out to be higher than the previous one. In the middle of the climb there was a post with donkeys for those who still want to but can no longer climb. We could climb, and quite briskly, because at the top, as a reward, those views for which many people go to Crete. The higher we climbed, the smaller our ship became, and the people below gradually turned into ants. Here it is, a view of Balos like on advertising posters! Already breathtaking!
The confluence of the three seas has a truly strong energy. We felt it ourselves when, at the speed of mountain goats, we tirelessly rushed up and down the mountains.
Day 9 - Samaria Gorge. Last day on the island
The gorge starts in the White Mountains of Lefka Ori and ends on the south coast of Crete in the village of Agia Roumeli. The total length of the gorge is 18 km. Of these, the first 3 km you are transported by bus to the equipped entrance. There you buy a ticket, which you will need to keep with you and give at the exit. So the workers of the gorge will know that you got out safely. From the entrance to the exit of the gorge you walk 13 km. From the exit to the sea, another 2 km, which can be walked on foot or by minibus.
The first 3 kilometers of the way is a constant steep descent along a narrow rocky path. It is important to put your feet very carefully, constantly look under your feet and not take pictures on the go. Stopped - photographed, the only way. If something happens to you on this section of the path, you will have to climb up to get out of the gorge, and this climb is not easy! I came across four injured people. By the end of the descent, my legs were bent under tension, because for three kilometers I had to walk literally half-bent!
Then the road is leveled horizontally and you can start enjoying! In the second half of the way you will meet mountain streams that you will have to cross over smooth stones. Take your time and be careful.
There are medical posts, toilets and rest areas along the way. drinking water. There are a few donkey rescue stations, but they are only for emergencies. There is a huge crowd of tourists in the gorge at the same time, so it is impossible to get lost there or be left without help. Throughout all thirteen kilometers I never managed to be alone!
Time to pass the gorge is given 6-7 hours. Everyone goes at their own pace. Leaving the gorge, you need to walk to the sea, to the village of Agia Roumeli and meet your guide at the appointed time at the appointed place. He will issue a ticket for the ferry. Who does not have time to leave on time, he will not have time for the ferry. Whoever does not make it to the ship will stay overnight in the village, because you can get out of there only on a ship that runs 2 times a day. Well, or walk through the Samaria Gorge in the opposite direction.
You need to get off the ferry at the second stop. First stop is the fishing village of Loutro.
Our second stop is Chora Sfakion. From there, we take buses up the mountains to get to south coast Crete to the north.
Two people were missing on our bus on the way back.
I passed the gorge in 4 hours and had time to swim and sunbathe before the boat.
But I didn’t have time to enjoy either the views or the nature of this unique place. As always, lack of time. It seems to me that tourists come here in the composition organized excursions with only one goal - to overcome these kilometers. In order to contemplate and enjoy nature, it is better to go on your own. The cost is 42 euros, plus 19 euros - a ticket for a boat.
Returning to the hotel late in the evening, I was delighted to find that the flight had been rescheduled an hour later. And night swimming in the sea, too, finally came true!
The next morning I said goodbye to the hotel.
The airport is only seven kilometers away…
I didn't miss my plane and didn't give me a headache. hotel guide. But some part of me stayed there on the roof small hotel, on the coast of the Cretan Sea, under the Greek spring sun.
Kalimera, Hellas! Sagapao!
Thanks to Yana for such a detailed and lively review, as well as great photos! Yana's first Greek holidays - a prime example how you can perfectly plan your vacation in Greece on your own, and then get the most out of it. 🙂 Good luck in the competition!
Gramvousa Island (Crete, Greece) - detailed description, location, reviews, photos and videos.
- Tours for May to Greece
- Hot tours to Greece
Previous photo Next photo
Off the northwestern coast of Crete, which is said to have the clearest water in the Mediterranean, is a mini-archipelago of two uninhabited islands: Agria-Gramvusa and Imeri-Gramvusa. Several tourist boats land on the shore of the second one every day. Their passengers from all over the world will learn about the fascinating history of this small, but with an amazing fate, a piece of land between the Aegean and Tyrrhenian seas. Fortunately, the miniature Gramvousa, once the pride of the Venetians, and then the haven of real pirates, today is happy to share its secrets.
What to see
For the first time, people came to the shore of an island located 20 km from Kissamos a very, very long time ago. But the full development of Gramvousa began only in 1579, when the Venetians, tired of endless clashes with the Turks, built a fortress here. The castle is well preserved and remains the main attraction of the island. Throughout the history of its existence, the fortress changed owners many times, but it gained real fame in the 19th century, when pirates settled outside its walls. The Gramvousa Fortress stands on top of a hill, a 20-minute walk from the pier (comfortable shoes are required).
The island also has a relatively new attraction - the rusty bulk of the cargo ship Dimitrios P. The ship crashed against the stone shores during a storm in 1967.
On the beach next to the Church of St. George is a luxurious sand beach where you can relax after a tiring climb to the local hills. But not for long, because the excursion ship goes further - to the Balos lagoon, whose the purest water as if the palette consists of many shades. All because of the temperature difference and the abundance of currents.
Practical information
Ships to Gramvusa depart twice a day from late April/early May to October (depending on weather conditions). Pleasure boats Gramvousa and Gramvousa Express leave the port of Kissamos at 10:20 and 10:40 and return at 17:45 and 18:00, respectively. In July-August, the third ship goes to sea - "Spirit of Aphos" (12:30-19:30).
Tickets - 27 EUR, children from 3 to 12 years old - 13 EUR, up to 3 years free of charge. Catering is organized on board (for an additional fee), umbrella rental (4 EUR), and there is a children's animator on the Gramvous. Prices on the page are for November 2018.
To get to the port of Kissamos from Heraklion, you must first drive to Chania (15.10 EUR, 2 hours 45 minutes, bus every hour), and then from Chania to Kissamos (1 hour, 5.10 EUR, bus every hour).
Add a review
Track
- Where to stay: On the most developed in terms of tourism, as well as the most central and numerous archipelago Aegean Sea- the blessed Cyclades, the variety of hotels of which will satisfy every taste. On the islands of the Saronic Gulf, tourists will find a remarkable entertainment industry, while on the Ionian Islands and the Dodecanese archipelago, nature and beach-holiday fun are in the right balance. The Eastern Sporades are very beautiful and secluded, and the Northern Sporades and the North Aegean archipelago are even too secluded - people come here mainly on excursions. Everything that is in Greece can be found in the popular Crete.
- What to see: The Greek islands are a concentration of natural and historical attractions. Among the cozy bays indented coastline picturesque fishing villages lurk, centuries-old olive groves hide the ruins of ancient civilizations, snow-white walls of houses shine in the sun, and tiled roofs turn bright crimson in the evenings. And also with Greek islands you can easily get to the mainland - for example, to see firsthand the greatness
