Arezzo is one of the most charming cities in Italy. Arezzo in Italy: the city of gold and the cradle of the Etruscan civilization

In the last part of the story about Arezzo, my hands (and feet during the walk) finally reached the main attraction that distinguishes it from all other Tuscan cities. I'm referring, of course, to Piazza Grande, a piazza so steeply sloping that it looks as level and flat as an LG Flatron TV screen.

Arezzo sightseeing map, the walking route from the last part of the report is marked with a green line.

But not all at once, we will follow the sequence. First, from I went down back to the central streets of Arezzo. On the way I came across a herd of mysterious animals. Sheep?

Even abstracting from the sights, Arezzo is an extremely pleasant place to walk. The streets here are what I need for my exacting taste.

Monument to Ferdinand III Grand Duke of Tuscany. Ruled by Tuscany in the late 18th early 19th centuries, a descendant of the Medici.

A feature of Arezzo is the commemorative plaques on buildings with bas-reliefs of people who glorified this place. Never seen anything like it in Italy.

Indispensable for any city in Italy, the office of the communists, in Arezzo they are located in the very center of the city.

The well is not easy, but a literary attraction. This is the one Tofano well from the Decameron. One night, a rich townsman, Tofano, locks himself away from his wife, who at night goes on dates with her lover to this well. No matter how much she begs him, he refuses to let her in. Then she pretends to throw herself into the well, but in fact she throws a huge stone into it. Tofano runs out of the house and rushes to the well, and meanwhile the wife enters the house, locks herself from her husband and shames him on the whole street. The people gather at the well and begin to resent the behavior of the "alcoholic" Tofano, who drunkenly hangs around at night and even slanders his wife. As a result, the whole world beats the face of a loser husband.

Boccaccio ends the story with such a moral: "A fool puts up - only more shameful. Long live love, but don't give a damn about money!"

Exit to the main street of Arezzo Corso Italia, which descends from Prato Park down towards the railway station.

The first building on this street Palazzo Pretorio. Since the 13th century, the residence of the commander of the local city militia has been located here. The walls of the palace are decorated with the coats of arms of all the captains and commissioners of Arezzo from the 14th to the 18th century. All the coats of arms (yes, the building itself) look suspiciously fresh, I suspect that Mussolini's restorers had a hand in it.

We turn off Corso Italia along the covered gallery and...

We find ourselves on Piazza Grande. And, here it remains only to be silent and admire this strange, but still beautiful place. Here, tell me, how did the townspeople arrange parades with such a bias, for example? Or, how to properly place tents for the fair here? Marvelous!

Around the square are numerous shops of antique dealers.

A year ago, before my trip, all the buildings of Piazza Grande were picturesquely decorated with numerous shields with coats of arms. But now they, unfortunately, have been removed, I don’t know forever or temporarily.

As I have already said, this Sunday all over Arezzo the people held small celebrations for themselves.

And this is perhaps the most canonical view of Piazza Grande. On the left is the church with the long name of Santa Maria della Pieve, a little later we will drop into it. Its 13th-century Romanesque apse overlooks the square. It came out a bit small, but still it is clear that one of the columns of the apse has a bend in the form of a "knee". For what? Farther away, against the backdrop of an ancient church, is an almost "modern" 17th-century baroque courthouse. Please note that the architect had to invent the original semi-circular staircase in order to overcome the slope of the square. And, finally, on the right rises the Gothic building of the Laic Brotherhood (Palazzo della Fraternita dei Laici), members of the brotherhood played a significant role in the life of Arezzo. Three architectural style In one place!

Of course, Roberto Benigni could not help shooting Piazza Grande in his film. As with other filming locations in Arezzo, the location is marked with a sign with footage from " Life is Beautiful".

Of course, there are much fewer tourists than in, but Arezzo cannot be called a completely unpopular place.

Antique shops bring their share of color to the surroundings of the square.

Departing from the square are the typical streets of Arezzo that I liked so much with steep climbs.

Vasari, who, as you remember from, is a native of Arezzo, also had a hand in decorating the square. Long building with galleries Loggia Vasari- his handiwork.

We take another look at the fantastic square and move on to the next attraction.

If before that all the churches of Arezzo, including the cathedral, did not impress me too much with their appearance, then Church of Santa Maria della Pieve(Uspenskaya in Russian), rehabilitated Arezzo in this regard. It's very cool, I think! Alas, alas, it is impossible to photograph its stunning facade in its entirety.

All columns are different.

Before entering the church, we lift our heads to look at the Romanesque figurines of the calendar. You can try to guess where, what month is depicted, the main thing is not to block the passage to the church for other tourists or parishioners.

Ascension of the Virgin.

The crypt contains the relics of St. Donata. "How is it, they're in the same sort of as are?" - the attentive reader will ask. That's right, and in the cathedral too. Just in time, St. Donata was divided, and the head went to Santa Maria della Pieve. From the wiki article, I understood that in the Middle Ages there was a conflict in Arezzo between the bishop and the townspeople, and this church was the stronghold of this struggle. Probably, the local burghers were very happy when they got such an important trophy in the war with their bishop.

Of the ancient murals of the church, little has survived. One example is Saints Francis and Dominic.

Well, it remains only to walk back from the center to the station along Corso Italia.

Chiesa dei Santi Michele e Adriano.

In terms of the picturesqueness of its streets, Arezzo may well compete with.

Chiesa di Sant'Agostino.

I explored the main beauties of Arezzo, and here at Sant Agostino I asked myself the difficult question, have lunch, then go around all the churches in the eastern part of Arezzo and calmly return to Florence or ... or make a small adventure with a trip to another region of Italy. But more on that in the next story.

I invite you to read my other stories about traveling in Italy.

Trip to Italy for May holidays 2015:
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One might wonder how small quiet Italian cities, at times, become, if not the center of the universe, then no less significant in science, culture and art for many centuries. One of these is Arezzo, Italy. This amazing city with charming urban landscapes has gathered on its streets and squares a lot of sightseeing and memorable places that can tell a lot about the pages of both the distant past and the present.

Is it not a curious fact that the town became the cradle of such a formidable and painful invention for not very diligent students in musical institutions - the science of solfeggio. The authorship of this invention belongs to the medieval Benedictine monk Guido d'Arezzo, who decided that playing from memory and using the available methods of transferring music is not very convenient. For this purpose, so that it would be clear and simple for everyone, I “designed” on a sheet a musical staff with four rulers and circles - notes. In total, as you know, there are seven of them.

What is interesting

Already later, three centuries later, the city gave not only Italy, but the whole world a brilliant poet, the brilliant Petrarch. The main Italian poet did a lot to popularize such a genre as a sonnet, plus everything was improved by him, if he did not come up with a parallel technique for writing poetry in both Latin and Italian.

Then, two centuries later, the painter Giorgio Vasari was “sent” to the city, who became the creator of a special, as it is now commonly called, Tuscan style of writing. His creations managed to significantly enrich the country. big amount amazing buildings.

Speaking of great personalities closely associated with Arezzo, one cannot fail to mention modern creators. At one time, the town was honored by the attention of the director R. Benigni. A film with a life-affirming message was filmed on its streets, which glorified the city at the Cannes Film Festival. Life is Beautiful won a lion and three Oscars.

Do you really need more examples to understand the city should not be overlooked during a trip to Italy, besides, there is a lot more interesting here.

Arezzo is a city located in the Tuscany region, in the center of Italy, is one of the oldest settlements. The city is relatively small, the last census showed that almost one hundred thousand people live in it. Of course, not a millionaire city, but nevertheless, a much larger metropolis can envy the number of tourists. It is no coincidence that today Arezz is a major tourist center. The city is also famous far beyond its borders for the production of jewelry.

From the history

Historical research shows that the first settlements on the territory of Arrezo appeared in the sixth century before our millennium. Trade with neighbors was the main occupation of the townspeople, thanks to its intensive course, the city grew literally before our eyes, and soon it was already one of the twelve city-states in Etruria.

Traces of the former Etruscan city bear the remains of the surviving ruins of the walls of the fortress of the wall, the necropolis of Poggio del Sol, as well as bronze sculptures of Chimera and Minerva. After a while, approximately in the year 300 BC, the city was invaded by the Romans, as a result of the capture, it was renamed Arretium. The development of the colony was carried out on a colossal scale, which allowed the city to increase the population by the beginning of the new century to almost one hundred thousand people.

At that time, this was a very significant indicator, which put Arretium in the top three largest cities, the first, of course, were Rome and Naples. Buildings grew, the territory of the city increased. A huge building of the amphitheater was built here, many public institutions, public baths.

When the Roman Empire fell, the significance of Arezzo did not change in any way, because it was conveniently located between Rome and the river valley. Later, the city was among the first in the state to come under the control of the Lombards. They considered it necessary to make the central part of the city on a hill, for this they first started building a castle. At the end of the 10th century, Arezzo was admitted to the Holy Roman Empire. It would seem that times of prosperity and prosperity came for the city, but it was a period of economic and cultural decline.

Changes in better side began to occur only decades later, when Arezzo formed a commune in the eleventh century. Only two centuries later, a period of cultural flourishing began here. The city was renewed and grew before our eyes. In place of the old ones, it was decided to build new city walls, then the Basilica of Santa Maria della Pieve was erected. Also, this time is marked by the construction of the cathedral, as well as one of the first universities in the country. The genius of F. Petrarch was born here, it happened in 1302. With this fact alone, the city is already attracting close attention.

By the end of the fourteenth century, the city came under the control of the Florentine Republic. This could not but affect its socio-political and cultural development. In the sixteenth century, to strengthen military value city, it was decided to rebuild its central part. The result of this "modernization" was not only the appearance of a whole complex of protective structures, but also the destruction of a number of cultural and historical heritage sites - there was no place left for the episcopal cathedral and the commune's palace.

Then, no less significant stages took place in the development of the city. Of particular note is the stage of construction of communication lines. This allowed the city in the nineteenth century to have a good connection with many cities and rural settlements, not only in the Tuscany region, but throughout the country.

How to get there

• There is no airport in Arezzo, if you are going to fly there by plane, then the airports of Florence and Pisa are closest to this city.
• But you can get here by rail, there is an excellent railway connection with Tuscan cities, for example, with Florence. You will have to spend about an hour on the road, the average ticket price is 10 euros; you can also quite successfully get here by train from Rome. The whole journey will take no more than two and a half hours, a ticket will cost an average of 15 euros.
• Buses depart here, making long-distance flights. This is the most practical option, as this type of transport is sent to Arezzo from almost every locality in the country.

Intracity transport

The city has a sufficient number of municipal buses that will allow you to visit different places in the village and see all the sights of Arezzo. It is considered the most suitable route (namely for those who came specially to the city on travel vouchers), called the "Historic Center" (Centro Storico). It, as it is easy to understand by the name, passes in close proximity to the main sights of Arezzo.

The city itself is not so big, here it is quite possible to get by on foot in order to see individual historical sights. Especially the center, as the objects are not separated from each other by large distances, moreover, there is a sufficient number of sidewalks and pedestrian zones. However, here it must be borne in mind that the city is not located exactly above sea level, but is stretched along a hill, so it will be necessary to apply here and there physical activity on the leg muscles. Keep in mind that the city is located on a hill, so walking through it will require some physical effort.

In the case when you are clearly not a fan of walking, but rent a car for walking, you need to know where you can leave it. To do this, there are municipal parking lots, which are located in front of the entrance to the Old Town. For such a service, you will have to pay a little more than 10 euros, the car can stay for this fee all day.

Hotels

There are enough rooms to stay in Arezzo, there is a fairly large number of various hotels, for example, private pensions and rural hotels with three and even four stars. Of course, you should not count on some very luxurious services in most establishments, as a rule, they work according to the usual scheme - the guest must have an overnight stay and breakfast.

However, this in no way diminishes their dignity, especially since there are many drinking and eating establishments in the district. For an overnight stay in such a room, you will have to pay from 50 to 80 euros. A night in a hotel with, for example, four stars will cost more - up to 125 euros. For those who wish to use an exclusive room, for example, in a restored villa, the pleasure will cost 60-80 euros more.

Here you can book the most popular hotels at affordable room rates:

• Hotel Minervafrom. The price is 4.6 thousand rubles. Address: Arezzo Via Fiorentina 4
• Etrusco Arezzo Hotelfrom 4.6 thousand rubles. Address: Arezzo Via A. Fleming 39
• Hotel L’Aretinofrom 5.8 thousand rubles. Address: Arezzo Via Madonna del Prato 83
• Casa Volpifrom 5.4 thousand rubles. Address: Arezzo Via Simone Martini 29
• Hotel Ceccofrom 3.5 thousand rubles. Address: Arezzo Corso Italia N° 215

Cuisine and restaurants

It's no secret that the inhabitants of Italy are not only very skilled chefs and confectioners, but also specialists who love their work. Arezzo residents are no exception. They are excellent inventors of authentic dishes, trying to be gastronomic successors of their predecessors. Among the traditional local dishes, which are in their own way calling card- soups with bread

They prepare, for example, “aquacotta”, one of the soups, with the addition of mushrooms, and the other - “ribollita” - with a wide variety of vegetables, it turns out something like a stew. Beef steak is always prepared for visitors here. If desired, it can always be accompanied by a vegetable salad with a glass of wine, by the way, also of traditional local varieties. To visit Arezzo and not try traditional pizza and pasta is simply unforgivable.

For those who want to get to know the urban cuisine closer, in all, so to speak, tastefulness, there are special “tasting menus” - this is when you are offered mini-sets of dish options that are served as Balkan “mezes”.

shopping

For lovers of antiques, there will always be a time and a place where you can admire the collections of antiques with pleasure, which vary in size and age, but most importantly - in price. On the first weekend of each month, the biggest one in Piazza Grande is organized here swap meet. More than half a thousand sellers participate in the auction, who exhibit not only consumer goods, but also antiques that are really significant in antiquarian and artistic terms.

The walk is best done on foot, but if you rent a car, you can identify it in the parking lot, which is located near the Cathedral - this is the closest place.

Here you can buy the most various souvenirs about the city. They are located nearby and are sold in any kiosk or shop, of which there are quite a lot in the center of the Old Town. If you're looking for the freshest "terroir" produce, Piazza Sant'Agostino is the place to be. Here, three times a week: Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday, agricultural products are delivered for sale from fields and farms.

Visit Arezzo and do 5 things!

Seasoned tourists say that if you've been to Arezzo and haven't done five things, it means you haven't seen and understood this city enough. What do they advise?

• It is necessary to pronounce the words “Maria! La chiave!" where Roberto Benigni shouted them.
• Give a rose to the horseman, thereby cheering him up at one of the Saracen Tournaments.
• Visit the house of the brilliant Italian poet Francesco Petrarca.
• Be sure to find time for a cultural run through one of the main attractions - the Vasari frescoes.
• Try aquacotta and appreciate not only the mushroom soup, but also the sides of fine Italian wine.

Festivals

• Tourists rightfully consider it the brightest and richest event in the city, which every year attracts thousands of spectators - the Tournament of the Knights of the Saracens. It takes place twice a year. The first time the tournament starts on the third Sunday of June, and the second time on the first Sunday of September. Knights, dressed in costumes of the Middle Ages, representing their city quarters, are in a stubborn competition, trying to get ahead of each other in shooting accuracy. To do this, they need a clear defeat of a wooden target. Spectators also take an active part, cheering the participants and competing among themselves in the best attire.
• In the summer, here in Arezzo, you can participate in a theater festival.
• Unfortunately no Lately music festival ArezzoWave, so it is now held in one of the suburbs of Florence.

Attractions

The main attractions of the city are concentrated, as in most cities, in the historical center.

Piazza Grande, also known as Piazza Vasari, is the most attractive square in Arezzo. It is located at the junction of roads, about two hundred meters from the Duomo; surrounded by the same as itself medieval buildings and religious buildings.

Twice a year, the Gistra del Saracino, well-known outside the city and very popular tournament of knights, is held here. The tradition originates from the distant Middle Ages. Riders in medieval armor compete in shooting accuracy at a wooden target.

Tourists will not remain indifferent from going to the market, which is located on the same square. The summer theater festival Arezzo Festival is also held here. Slightly away from central square you can see the towering Lodge Vasariane. It is one of the most attractive buildings; it began to be built in the sixteenth century.

Surprise and amaze the arched church facade of Santa Maria, a building built in the twelfth century, the Romanesque style and twelve reliefs made of marble, which mean the months of the year, are especially attractive. It is impossible not to look at the bell tower, which symbolizes the city, built two centuries later.

No less elegant is San Francesco - the church, where those who wish can admire the colossal work of Francesca, the frescoes are especially attractive - ten compositions that complement each other. The master dedicated this large-scale work to the Holy Cross.

Other attractions

You can also see amazing church buildings, such as Santa Maria delle Grazie and others.

• The cathedral, proudly stands on a hill, which attracts attention even more and seems to be watching everything that happens, has a monumental stone facade. There are also many marble bas-reliefs made by a first-class master. Of particular note are the delightful frescoes of Francesca.
• Roman amphitheater. A very fascinating sight, returning to the old days. He is the main witness to imperial rule. Here one can only imagine the entertainment of distant ancestors.
• Palace of Priors. To see this magnificent creation of human hands, built in the twelfth century, you need to go to the western part of Freedom Square.
• House of Vasari. Acquired by the owner in the middle of the sixteenth century. Located at Via XX Settembre.
• Medici Fortress - once a defense structure, built in the sixteenth century. It occupies part of the territory of the hill of St. Donat.
• Praetor Palace. This building is a complex of amazing and original architectural design buildings.
• Theater of Petrarch. It is the main theatrical institution of the city. You can visit it if you walk six hundred meters in a southwest direction from Cathedral along Via Guido Monaco.
• Prato park. This is one of the most beautiful and oldest parks in the city, it is comfortably spread out along the hill between the cathedral and the fortress.

Churches

• Our Lady in Grad. A very beautiful building, located on the square of the same name, on the street, where there is a steep climb.
• St. Michael the Archangel, located on the square of the same name.
• Saint Augustine. It occupies the territory of the square of the same name Sant'Agostino). It began to be laid back in the thirteenth century, then it was reconstructed two centuries later.
• Saint Dominic. It can be seen on the square with the same name, for this you need to walk two hundred meters from the Cathedral in a northerly direction.
• Our Lady of Mercy. It is located outside the historic center.
• Holy Annunciation. You can find it if you walk along via Giuseppe Garibaldi.
• Parish Church of Our Lady. It is considered by the townspeople the most elegant building.
• Monastery of Saints Flora and Lukilla.
• Mary Magdalene. Those who wish can visit the Museum of the Cathedral here. It has a sufficient number of various artifacts. Big interest evokes, for example, the vase "Efronius Crater" from visitors. It very picturesquely depicts the exploits of the mythical hero Hercules.

Museums

• Archaeological. There are a lot of different exhibits that tell about the Etruscan and ancient Roman times.
• Medieval and modern art. It widely shows the canvases of painters and sculptures of local masters for the period of the thirteenth - eighteenth centuries.
• Ivan Brusky. The house is named after the founder of the museum. Here is a lot of antique interior items.

Finally

A country like Italy has a lot of amazing places, Arezzo is only a small part of the entire cultural heritage. But there are so many interesting things here.

In Arezzo, there is an opportunity to walk along the streets and squares where the shooting of “Life is Beautiful” took place; prudently hung signs with photos speak of these places. You can imagine how the inhabitants of the street feel, on which tourists do not stop enthusiastically repeating after the hero of the film “Maria! La chiave!

Isn't it interesting to visit the House of Vasari, around the corner which he himself designed and furnished with a brilliant painter. Or look at the house of another genius - Petrarch, who sang Laura. You can get into the house only by pre-registration, or at a very good request.

Many people dream of looking at the city from above. medieval fortress, which was built in the sixteenth century and proudly rises above the town.

Arezzo(Arezzo, Tuscany, Italy) is located at the intersection of the four valleys (Valdarno, Valdichiana, Val Tiberina and Cosentino) that make up this province. Precisely due to its geographical location in the heart of Italy, Arezzo is a meeting place for different civilizations and cultures. The city was badly damaged during the Second World War, but many masterpieces are still preserved here.
A visit to Arezzo is interesting for people who are deeply passionate about art. It was here that the “stave” method was invented - a method of recording music “in circles on five rulers”, the great Petrarch was born here and the artist Vasari worked.
If you are somewhat tired of the crowds of tourists and the noise of motorcycles - you are here, in Arezzo.
All guidebooks also mention that the Oscar-winning Italian film "Life is Beautiful" directed by Benigni took place here.

Arezzo - how to get there

By train - from Rome (2 hours), from Florence (1 hour 15 minutes),
By bus - from Cortona (1 hour), from Sienna (1 hour 15 minutes).
By car - the A1 highway runs a few kilometers from the city, you can leave the car at the municipal parking lot at the entrance to the Old Town.
Arezzo is a small town, easy to explore on foot.
The map of Arezzo is presented in the picture on the right.

Attractions Arezzo

You should start your tour of Arezzo in Piazza San Francesco, the highlight of which is the Gothic Church of San Francesco(Chiesa di San Francesco). The church was created in the XIII century and rebuilt in 1318-77. in the forms of Umbrotuscan Gothic. The facade remained unfinished: the bell tower dates back to the 16th century.
In the vast deserted Gothic interior with chapels from the 14th century and the Renaissance, the remains of wall frescoes made in the 14th and 15th centuries stand out. Opposite is a round carved window in the form of a rose - roson - with a beautiful stained glass window by Guillaume de Marsilpat.

One of the masterpieces of the Italian Renaissance has been preserved in the choir stalls: a cycle of frescoes based on " Legends of the Holy Cross» (Vera Croce), made by Piero della Francesca in 1453-66. This cycle was inspired by the Golden Legend of Blessed Jacopo da Varagine. After the last restoration, an extraordinary wealth of color and light appeared, which Piero achieved through the use of various techniques, as well as through a deeply and in a new way rethought the concept of space and perspective. The scenes of the frescoes represent the history of the cross on which Christ was crucified.
Above the choirs stretches the Crucifix with the image of San Francesco by the Master of San Francesco (XIII century). Also noteworthy are the Guasconi Chapel with frescoes by Spinello Aretino (c. 1400) and the Tarlati Chapel. Here is the Annunciation, which is attributed to both Luca Signorelli and Bartolomeo della Gatta. Details on the website www.pierodellafrancesca.it

IN abbey church , erected by the Benedictines in the 13th century and expanded in the middle of the 16th century, Vasari (the bell tower was built in 1650), the Crucifix by Segna di Bonaventura and the monumental altar by Giorgio Vasari have been preserved.
On the territory of the former monastery, to the right of the church, there is an elegant kiostr (monastery courtyard) of the 15th century.

On Corso Italia, which has been the main city thoroughfare since time immemorial, are the church of San Michele (XIII century) with a bell tower of the XIV century; the palaces of Palazzo Bacci and Palazzo Altucci: the tower house of the 13th century and the palace of Palazzo Camayani-Albergotti of the 14th century.

Next to the palace rises the so-called tower Torre della Bagazza(1351), which during the time of fascism was used as a "lictor tower" (lictors - a guard and escort service in ancient Italy).

Opposite the tower house stands out one of the most significant examples of the Romanesque style in Tuscany - the parish Church of Santa Maria(Pieve di Santa Maria), the construction of which began in 1140 and continued, with the introduction of Gothic elements, until the first decades of the XIV century. In the 16th century, the church was rebuilt according to the design of Vasari and was completely restored at the end of the 19th century. Its beautiful facade is made in the Romanesque style under the influence of the Pisan-Luccan school (XIII century). The central portal is decorated with the image of the Months, a powerful bell tower (1330) with windows separated by columns is called the tower of "hundred holes". The majestic interior houses the font of Giovanni di Agostino and a polyptych by Pietro Lorenzetti (1320-24)

Piazza Grande, which is also called Piazza Vasari, is one of the most picturesque squares in Italy (interestingly, it has a slope of almost 30 degrees). In June and September there are Knightly Tournaments of the Saracens(Giostra del Saracino, the third Sunday of June and the first Sunday of September - an unusual, colorful and memorable event); every month (on the first Sunday of the month) the famous Antiques Fair is held (http://www.fieraantiquaria.org/).

The attractions of the square are: the Public Fountain (XVI century), the Court Palace and the elegant Palace of the Confraternity of Novices, the lower floor of which was built in gothic style, and the upper one is in the Renaissance style. Worthy of attention is the Palais des Loggias, designed by Vasari in 1537.

On Via Pileati, a continuation of Corso Italia, are the monumental Praetor Palace (XIV-XV centuries) and the alleged Petrarch's house(Casa Petrarca, at the intersection of Via dei Pileati and Via del Orto), which now houses the Petrarch Academy of Literature, Arts and Sciences.

Passing along the boulevard Passegio del Prato with the ruined Fortress of the Medici, you get to Cathedral (Duomo), the construction of which began in the XIII century and was completed at the beginning of the XVI century. Inside the cathedral are gothic arch San Donato, "Magdalene" fresco by Piero della Francesca and the cenotaph of Bishop Guido Tarlati (1330) The Diocesan Museum houses three wooden Crucifixes (13th century), the amazing "San Girolamo in the Desert" by Bartolomeo della Gatta, and precious jewelry .
Nearby, in a small secluded square surrounded by trees, stands the church of San Domenico, inside which is placed the grandiose Crucifixion, an early work of Cimabue.

An excellent example of Tuscan mannerism is Vasari's house where Giorgio Vasari lived. This house was created according to his own project (1540-48).

From here, bypassing the church (XI-XII centuries) Santa Maria in Gradi (rebuilt in 1592 by the architect Ammannati). you can get to Museum of Medieval and Modern Art, which is housed in the Renaissance palace of the Palazzo Bruni-Ciocchi piece, as it is called, the Customs Palace (XV century). The palace is located at a monumental crossroads, complemented by palaces from the 14th century and the Renaissance.
The museum was born from the merger of the municipal collections and the collections of the Brotherhood of the Hermits. It offers the most detailed overview of the painting of Arezzo and Tuscany from the 14th to the XLX centuries. Here are works by Giorgio Vasari, Margarito Darezzo, Spinello. Aretino, Luca Signorelli, Bartolomeo della Gatta, Ludovico Carracci. The Madonna della Misericordia by Parri di Spinello is exhibited here. as well as painting from the 17th century (Grechetto, Pietro Benvenuti) to the 19th century, which is represented by the Tachi artists Giovanni Fattori and Telemaco Signorini. In addition, the museum exhibits jewelry, bronze sculptures, majolica (one of the richest collections in Italy), weapons, coins and medals.

On the old street "Via Sacra", which enclosed the medieval city in a semicircle, there is the church of Santissima Annunziata. This is a Renaissance building with an unfinished facade and an elegant three-arched window (XVI century). Inside is the venerated terracotta sculpture Madonna and Child by Michele da Firenze (c. 1430).

Archaeological Museum of Patrons is located in the former monastery of San Bernardo, partly located on the ruins of a Roman amphitheater (117-138 AD). The collection of the museum is represented by works from private collections of the 18th-19th centuries and objects discovered during recent excavations. In addition to the department of Etruscan and Hellenistic cultures, the museum houses objects found in the lands of Arezzo (Eifronios spiral bowl), Valdikiana (Attic amphora) and Casentino. In the department of Roman culture, the so-called coral vases, or “sealed lands”, Aretine tableware made of ceramics covered with red paint, as well as the Attic Cup of Duris, glassware and jewelry (a male portrait made in the technique of cryography - painted with gold ink) deserve attention. on parchment), numismatics, Etruscan and Roman bronzes. The museum has departments dedicated to prehistory and paleontology.

Outside the city, on the site of the ancient "Fons Tect" stands the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, built in 1435-44. In front of the austere Gothic church is an elegant vaulted portico designed by the architect Benedetto da Maiano. Inside is a marble central altar and glazed terracotta by Andrea della Robbia, which contains frescoes by Parri di Spinello.
Behind Alpi di Poti is 18.5 km to the east the Abbey of Sai Veriano, a Romanesque church from the 11th century.

Arezzo - a bit of history

The Arretium, about which there is information dating back to the 4th century BC, was perhaps one of the 12 powerful Etruscan lucomonies. It became a Roman military center and established itself under Emperor Augustus. In the 1st century BC. here the production of “sealed land” (“ter-ra sijillata”) develops, which falls into decay along with the city at the beginning of the 2nd century.
The economic and urban revival begins in the 12th century during the period of communal administration, a university was founded here. In 1289, after the defeat of Campaldino, which Dante mentions, the city falls under the influence of Florence. which is sold for the first time in 1337, and then, finally, in 1384. During this period, the decline of the city begins, which damages artistic and cultural independence.
A new impetus to development arises during the period of the Unification of Italy and, above all, after the construction of the Florence-Rome railway (1862-66).

Stones of Arezzo
from stones made by centuries,
that keep the echoes of speeches,
the screams of victims with their necks bared...
and the repentance of their executioners...
from the stones on a quiet, impassive night,
from their trembling in the squares,
idle reality freezes,
vanity turns to dust...

this city, conceived by the antique,
greedily drinks from the flow of currencies ...
fat birds peck at trifles,
that can't fit into the pasted
poster comfort at the gate ...
discern behind a smiling face
mannequins ringing showcases,
yours, Arezzo, forgotten with haste
for the aging of sweet wines,

for fermenting flirting and singing
on your paved squares,
faint voice of innocent decay,
the ashes of the slain prisoner ...
Author — Elena Serebrovskaya-Migliori

On a hill, at the junction of four fertile valleys. The city gave the world such famous people as Guido d'Arezzo (c. 990-1050), the inventor of the modern system of musical notation, the poet Francesco Petrarca (1304-1374) and Giorgio Vasari (1511-1574) - artist, architect, author of the monumental biographical work "Biographies of the Greatest Painters, Sculptors and Architects". The name of another native of Arezzo (Arretium), adviser to Emperor Augustus and patron of the arts Gaius Cylnius Maecenas (70-8 BC), became a household name. Despite the abundance of historical and cultural monuments, Arezzo was away from tourist routes. Narrow streets and the charming squares of the city became and became popular thanks to the director Roberto Benigni, who filmed scenes from the Oscar-winning film Life is Beautiful in Arezzo. After the release of the picture on the screens, interest in the city increased significantly.

History of Arezzo:

These places were inhabited even in the Paleolithic era - nearby, in the town of Olmo, when laying a railway tunnel, they found a human skull, whose age is more than 50,000 years. The ancient Arretium (VI-IV centuries BC) was presumably inhabited by the Umbrian tribe. The city was famous for the production of ceramics and bronze, as well as the famous Aretin vases in ancient times. Under the Romans, the city grew strongly in the southeast direction, baths, a theater, and an amphitheater appeared. Arretium became the third most important city after Capua and retained its importance until the 2nd century, when civil strife gradually led the prosperous city to decline. In 575, the city fell under the rule of the Lombards, then the Franks, after the collapse of the Frankish state, it was revived again. To a large extent, this was facilitated by the canonization of the second Bishop of Aretina, Donato. He was martyred in 304, was buried in the town of Pionta and became the heavenly patron of the city under the name of St. Donata. In the 9th century, by decision of the church authorities, the residence of the bishop was located in Pyonta. During the XIII-XIV centuries, most of the religious and civil buildings were built and the appearance of the city was formed, which is preserved to this day. In the XIV century, the city lost its independence, fell under power and was included in the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. The new signors, the Medici, cared not so much about the interests of the Aretinians, but about asserting their own power.

How to get to Arezzo:

• By plane: the nearest airports are in and .
• By train: The railway station of Arezzo is located on the edge of the old town. Trains come here from cities like and.
• By car: The easiest way is to leave the car in one of the municipal parking lots (€10 per day), and then walk along historical center Arezzo on foot.

Getting around in Arezzo:

Arezzo railway station is located on piazza della Repubblica (Piazza Repubblica). Northeast of piazza della Repubblica goes via Guido Monaco (Via Guido Monaco), which leads to the Basilica of San Francesco. The city center was formed on the tops of two hills - San Pietro (where piazza del Duomo) and San Donato (where the Medici fortress is located). A little lower down the slope is the most old district cities. Its southern part is occupied by the ruins of the amphitheater and the Archaeological Museum. Via Garibaldi (Via Garibaldi) repeats the outlines of the fortress walls of the beginning of the XIII century. There is no public transport within the historic center. To walk around Arezzo, it is better to put on comfortable shoes: the city is located on a hill.

Attractions Arezzo (Arezzo):

Arezzo - small town, his old center it is easy to get around one walk for three hours.

Tourist itinerary in Arezzo:

The route starts from the Arezzo station and goes through Old city, past all the sights.

• Length route - 4.2 km.
• Time per route: about 2 - 3 hours, excluding museums.
• Start: Piazza Grande
• Ending: Archaeological Museum, near the train station. (you can do it in reverse order if you came by train).

Piazza Grande

Arezzo can be called the center of urban lifepiazzaGrande(Piazza Grande). In ancient timespiazza Grande was a forum, in the Middle Ages - a market. This trapezoid-shaped square acquired a modern look in the 13th century, when it was within the city.

Palazzo Cofani Brizzolari

On the south side rises a massive Palazzo Cofani Brizzolari(Palazzo Cofani-Brizzolari, XV century, pectavr. XX century), combined with an older gear tower(La Torre, XII century). Opposite the one overlooking the square via Borgunto (Via Borgunto) is located well(Pozzo) with a gable roof (XV century, reconstructed in the XX century). Along the eastern side lined up are characteristic low medieval buildings with wooden balconies, among which a battlement tower stands out. Palazzo Lappoli(Palazzo Lappoli, XIV century).

Palazzo Loge Vasariane

The north, high, side of the square is completely occupied by a long light building with a loggia - this is a Renaissance Palazzo Loge Vasariane(Palazzo delle Logge Vasari), built in the 16th century according to the plans of the same Giorgio Vasari. It is easily recognizable by the arched gallery on the lower floor.

Palace of the Brotherhood of the Laity

On the left, it is adjacent to a small Palace of the Brotherhood of the Laity(, 1460). Astronomical watch(1552) on the facade show the time of day, days of the week, the phases of the moon and the movement of the sun.

• Palazzo della Fraternita dei Laici
• Piazza Grande
• Working hours: hedgehog. 10:30 - 18:00, Tue. and cf. 11:30 - 17:30
• Entrance: €3

Neighboring building with a semi-circular staircase - Palazzo dei Tribunale(Palazzo dei Tribunale, 18th century).

Chiesa Santa Maria della Pieve

To his left is a Romanesque church Santa Maria del la Pieve(Chiesa Santa Maria della Pieve, XII-XIII centuries), one of the most impressive monuments of the Areti Middle Ages. the apse of the church overlooks the square. The western portal on the opposite side of the building (to get to it, you have to go around the church on the left) is decorated with a bas-relief with allegorical images of 12 months. In the presbytery, the most ancient part of the temple, there is polyptych Sienese painter Pietro Lorenzetti (1320). The interior is being decorated frescoes masters of the school of Giotto. In the crypt, in a 14th-century reliquary, the skull of St. Donatus, heavenly patron of Arezzo.

Palazzo Pretorio

Not far from piazza Grande, on the corner Via dei Pileati(Via Pileati) and via Albergotti(via Albergotti), rises majestic Palazzo Pretorio(Palazzo Pretorio, XIV c., reconst. XVI century), the former residence of the podesta (head of the city administration). on the facade of the building you can see shields with the coats of arms of the podestas that ruled the city since the 15th century. Now the municipal library is located here.

House of Petrarch

Next to m Petrarch(Casa di Petrarca, XIII c., reconstructed. 1948). There is a small museum, a library and the Academy of Petrarch here.

• Casa Museo del Petrarca
• Via dell'Orto 28
• Apr. - Oct: weekdays 11:30 -16:30, holidays 10.30-17.30
• November - March: weekdays 11.30-15.30, closed. and holidays 10.30-16.3. Closed on Tue, Wed. and thw.
• Entrance: €4, reduced €3.

One of the most notable buildings in the Old Town - gothic Cathedral(Cattedrale di Arezzo, XIII century), located on the top of the hill of San Pietro. The neo-Gothic facade was already made at the beginning of the 20th century according to the project of the local architect Dante Viviani. stands on the steps of the stylobate monument to Ferdinand I de Medici(1595). Inside the cathedral, the gravestone of Pope Gregory IX (XIV century), the Tartlati Chapel (1330) and the fresco of Piero della Francesca "Mary Magdalene" (1460) have been preserved. In the 16th-17th centuries, the interior was decorated with stained-glass windows and frescoes by Giorgio Vasari's teacher Guillaume de Marsiglia.

Bishop's Palace of Arezzo

Opposite the cathedral is located Bishop's Palace(Palazzo Vescovile, Piazza Duomo 1, 13th century, rebuilt in the 18th century), in front of which stands monument to Ferdinand I de Medici(Pietro Francavilla, 1595), Grand Duke of Tuscany (1549-1609). IN episcopal palace there is a museum of sacred art:

• Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra
• Palazzo Vescovile, Piazza Duomo 1, Arezzo
• Opening hours: daily 10 - 18
• Entrance: €3 full, €2 reduced

Il Prato and Medici Fortress

Right behind the cathedral begins the most famous garden of Arezzo, Il Prato(Il Prato), which stretches up to Medici fortresses(Fortezza Medicea, Antonio da Sangalla the Younger, 1560). It crowns the top of another Aretin hill - San Donato. Once between these hills there was a Roman forum, and during the period of French domination, a garden was arranged here, solemnly opened in 1809. since then, Il Prato has become a favorite place for walks of the townspeople. on holidays, horse races are held here, they launch Balloons, magicians perform.

Chiesa di San Domenico

In the church San Domenico(Chiesa di San Domenico, XIV century) a wooden crucifix by the Florentine painter Cimabue (XIII century) is kept.

• San Domenico
• Via di Sassoverde 59, 52010, Arezzo

Casa del Vasari

House of Vasari(Casa del Vasari) is located on via XX Settembre. The artist bought this house in 1540, arranged it according to his taste and lived in it until his move to Florence 14 years later. Now there is a museum in the house, the exposition of which is the painting of the 16th century (mainly of the Tuscan school), as well as frescoes and portraits by Vasari himself.

• House of Vasari
• Via XX Settembre, 55
• daily08.30–19.00, holidays until 13.00, Tue - closed
• Admission €4
• Valid for 2 days.

Palazzo Comune

Via Ricasoli(Via Ricasoli) separates piazz Duomo(piazza Duomo) from Piazza della Liberta(Piazza dela Liberta), on which stands Palazzo Comune(Palazzo del Comune, 1333). The building belonged to various administrative bodies of the city and underwent several cardinal reconstructions. from the 14th century, the side façade overlooking the via Ricasoli, everything else was changed in the XV-XVI centuries and in the 1930s.

Basilica of San Francesco

From via Ricasoli via A.Cesalpino(via A. Cesalpino) leads to Piazza San Francesco(Piazza San Francesco), on which one of the most famous churches of the city is located - Basilica of San Francesco(Basilica di San Francesco, XIV century). Its facade is unfinished, but the interior contains many valuable works of art, which, unfortunately, have suffered greatly from time to time.

In the 20th century, only the famous cycle of frescoes "The Legend of the Life-Giving Cross" by Piero della Franceschi (1456), which adorns the wall of the main chapel, was restored.

• Basilica of San Francesco
• Piazza San Francesco 4
• Mon-Fri 09.00-18.30, Sat 09.00-17.30, Sun 13.00-17.30
• Entry €8
• With a ticket to the Basilica, you can visit the Casa Museo Ivan Brischi (Corso 14, Arezzo) on a special basis. price - 1 euro. www.fondazionebruschi.it
• Combined ticket (San Francesco + Casa Vasari + Museo Medievale + Museo Archeologico) - €12. Valid for 2 days.

Badia delle Sante Flora e Lucilla

Via Cavour leads to Abbey of Sante Flore e Lucilla(Badia delle Sante Flora e Lucilla), rebuilt in the 16th century by Giorgio Vasari. In the interior of the church, the paintings by Andrea Pozzo (1702) create the illusion of a vault of a non-existent dome.

• Abbey of Sante Flore e Lucilla
• Piazza della Badia, 3
• Opening hours: 8:00 - 19:00

Archaeological Museum of Arezzo

Archaeological Museum ( Museo Archeologico) is located in the building of the former Benedictine monastery (XV century), built on the ruins of an ancient amphitheater (II century). The exposition presents antique vases, Etruscan and Roman sculpture, archaeological finds in Arezzo and its environs.

• Archaeological Museum
• Via Margaritone, 10 (near the station)
• daily 08.30–19.30, on holidays - until 14.00
• Entrance: € 6
• Combined ticket (San Francesco + Casa Vasari + Museo Medievale + Museo Archeologico) - €12.Valid for 2 days.

Museum of Medieval and Modern Art

At the Museum of Medieval and Modern Art ( Museo Statale d'Arte Medievale e Moderna) contains a collection of Aretine sculpture, ceramics and paintings (including works by Luca Signorelli and Giorgio Vasari), as well as local coins, medals and seals.

• Museum of Medieval and Contemporary Art
• Via San Lorentino, 8
• Tue–Sun 08.30–19.30, Mon - closed
• Combined ticket (San Francesco + Casa Vasari + Museo Medievale + Museo Archeologico) - €12.Valid for 2 days.

Map of Arezzo:

There are different types of tourists. Someone goes for sea pleasures with diving, the beach and other related things. Others have a weakness for a "civilized" vacation - somewhere in the center of a European city, with an accompanying "star" hotel and a view of the Eiffel Tower from the window. Third - do not feed bread, let me touch various antiquities with my own hands. It is especially good if they are from the Middle Ages - in this case, the admirer has a strong sense of admiration for the fruits of culture that has made its way through dark times. You can easily experience this in Arezzo - perhaps the most medieval of all Italian cities.

However, traces of the ancient Roman civilization are well preserved here ...

At the same time, it is impossible not to notice that several Apennine settlements can compete in the nomination "Ancient Roman" Arezzo. Among them are Pompeii and. The first fell out of the jury's field of vision even after the well-known incident with the volcano, and the second such rivalry is not allowed by the state. Rome is Rome. Even if it's ancient.

Monuments of the goddess Minerva in Arezzo are quite common. Photo venividi.ru

But Arezzo was the generally recognized Etruscan capital - Titus Livy wrote about this in his historical writings. It still exists in this status, which is especially pleasing to those interested in the history of the Roman period. Quite a lot of evidence of the former greatness of Arezzo has been preserved. For example, sections of the city walls (rather massive, by the way), ruins ancient necropolis(on Poggio del Sole), bronze sculptures and many more like that. Under the Romans, the city became very strong, acquired a significant number of thermae, a theater, and other privileges associated with its status. He successfully held the defense against the barbarians, until, finally, in the 5th century he was conquered by the Lombards.

Arezzo is famous not only for references to the glorious imperial past, but also for the quite useful deeds of its glorious natives. Among them is Maecenas Gaius Tsilny, whose name has become a household name in our time. He really sincerely adored various arts and contributed a lot to their development, which caused the respect of other patricians. Here Petrarch, the founder of romantic sonnets, and Guido D'Arezzo, the Italian monk, who owns the musical notation, were born. As a result, the Russian show business is simply obliged to beat the holy man with daily bows. Unless, of course, its representatives use musical notation, which periodically raises serious doubts.

@alberto_sadini

90 kilometers northeast of the more famous one - and you are in Arezzo. The city was significantly damaged during the Second World War, after which many sights were partially restored - this was done quite efficiently, and you won’t even notice the difference between the masonry of the 12th century and the 60s of the past. And there are a lot of masonry, walls, stone houses and paved squares. So it will really be something to look at.

Getting to Arezzo, or to another "medieval" small city, of which there are plenty in Italy, you begin to doubt the hopeless darkness of that era. Of course, contemporaries knew better - the Inquisition and all that - but from the point of view of architecture, this is definitely not the worst period. Most of all there are churches and cathedrals, which can be explained by the peculiarities of the era. Many priceless buildings have been preserved in Arezzo, each of which is a unique example of medieval architecture.

For example, the Basilica of San Francesco, which houses the famous series of frescoes "The Legend of the Holy Cross". Appearance The buildings are quite simple, but the interior decoration is worth dwelling on separately. First, the frescoes already mentioned: 10 scenes that have been relatively recently restored depict the story of the search for and finding the cross on which Jesus was crucified. Created using the latest visual techniques for that time, the frescoes are distinguished by the quality and atmospheric narration. It is best to walk around the basilica with an audio guide, which can be ordered in advance, or at the box office - Piazza San-Francesco, 4.

Basilica of San Francesco in Arezzo. Photo by @gc_di_her

Arezzo is one of the oldest cities in Tuscany, a real keeper of centuries dormant here. Reverence and awe should seize anyone who walks along its pavements - after all, Boccaccio in his Decameron described precisely these places. On via del Orto, the same octagonal well is still standing, into which the wife of one of the townspeople allegedly threw herself. And almost nearby - at the crossroads of via del Pileate and via del Orto - there is another century-old landmark: the house of the great Petrarch. Here was born the one who was destined to reform the European poetic genre, and at the same time give the world one of greatest stories love - the poet's feelings for Laura are still considered by many to be the standard. Although, according to the testimony of contemporaries, Petrarch saw her only a few times in his life. Or maybe he didn't see it at all. That's it.

House of Petrarch. Photo venividi.ru

Stunned by the power of platonic love, let's go up the street to Piazza Duomo, where we will see gothic cathedral Cattedrale, which was erected for two incomplete centuries. The famous long-term construction that has survived to this day - the facade is still not finished. Be sure to visit the monastery of St. Bernardo (S. Bernardo), which was erected on the ruins of an ancient Roman amphitheater. For its intended purpose, the monastery was used from the 17th century until 1937, when the Archaeological Museum was established in it. Incidentally, giving him the name of the already mentioned Gaius Cylnius Maecenas. And those who are familiar with citizens by the name of "Medici" from the school history course can see with their own eyes the embodiment of their greatness - the fortress of the same name (Fortezza Medicea). The citadel inspires very, very, and still looks like a solid confirmation of the legitimacy of the power of the Duke of Tuscany.

Corso Italia is home to Arezzo's pride, Pieve di Santa Maria, which has the most unusual façade in the city. The galleries placed in a semicircular extension are decorated with a large number of columns - the higher they are, the closer they are to each other. A very impressive sight, and if you also take into account the fact that inside are the relics of St. Donato, the patron saint of Arezzo, immediately imbued with respect and admiration for the work of medieval architects.

Pieve di Santa Maria. Photo svoiludi.ru

Arezzo also chose Roberto Benigni for location shooting - the tragic plot with a relatively happy ending "Life is beautiful!" unfolded right here. The correctness of this statement becomes clear and applicable to Arezzo at some sacred moment - for example, after rain. Washed, clean and quiet town pacifies and thereby creates a certain message - "everything will be fine." Even the local city cemetery - contrary to its sad purpose - becomes like a concentration of some light sadness collected by previous generations. Located next to the Medici fortress, it is a real necropolis, the "city of the dead." Upon closer inspection, small facades turn out to be cells for burials, where funeral candles burn, and arched walls silently guard the local peace. The cypress trees planted here, rushing up, also make an impression ... Once again you are convinced of the correctness of the expression: appreciate life - look how terrible its absence is.

@visit_arezzo

IN unique city simply must be its own unique area. Piazza Grande is exactly what you were looking for, dear lovers of medieval streets, houses, taverns and everything else that accompanied the era of minstrels and knightly tournaments. The square fascinates not with its size or the balanced outline of the lines - on the contrary, with its randomness. First, it is tilted at an angle of 30 degrees. As a result, it is very convenient to hold here, for example, parades or fairs - just look, something with wheels will roll downhill. Secondly - and this is already a purely aesthetic pleasure - once you get on it, you seem to find yourself about seven centuries ago. Colorful coats of arms and houses of various sizes, among which rises a jagged stone tower (all this is also fairly tilted) cause a vague expectation of the equestrian detachment of knights leaving with a full gear. And this is definitely happening. And strictly on the first Sunday of September.

The same area. Photo by @alberto_sodini

"Giostra del Saracino" is a politically incorrect "Saracenic holiday", which is a jousting tournament. They prepare for it for a long time and interestingly, honing various methods of handling edged weapons, namely, with a spear. The purpose of the fun, which has the status of the most important urban entertainment, is as follows. In the far corner of the square, an effigy is installed (movable around its axis), symbolizing an Arab. who holds a shield in his left hand, and in his right - three balls of lead, connected in a kind of mace, hanging on ropes. The challenger put up against the dummy must hit a steel shield with a spear, and then dodge the balls flying in full accordance with the laws of physics. The one who succeeds, receives a prize - the "Golden Spear" and glory with respect. In general, the holiday is very atmospheric and cute: the streets are filled with ladies in medieval costumes, trumpeters, standard-bearers and tourists. If possible, be sure to visit this holiday - there will be something to remember. Oh, and don't forget about the antique fairs that are held here every first Sunday of the month. On them it is quite possible to pick up something curious as a gift or in a home collection.

And one more small but useful note - in addition to the medieval spirit, jewelry craft has been preserved and successfully developed here along the way. Arezzo is very rich - after all, it is the largest in Europe and one of the largest centers in the world for the production of gold and silver products. Here, accordingly, there is an opportunity for tourists to choose for themselves or friends an excellent little thing that will remind them of a visit to this beautiful city.