Kola region in ancient times - Murmansk and Murmansk region. Favorite Russia: Kola Peninsula. Murmansk

Kola region in ancient times

On the Kola Peninsula, as well as in the North of Europe in general, people appeared much later than in the South. Only after the retreat of the glacier, about 8 thousand years ago, the conditions necessary for human life were formed here. At the same time, the warm Atlantic Gulf Stream played an important role, which, by heating the northwestern shores of Europe, changed the climate of our Arctic. Forests, grasses, mosses appeared on the Kola Peninsula. Deer, elks, arctic foxes, squirrels, waterfowl began to be found, in the seas - fish and seals.

And yet the conditions of the Far North remained harsh and required tireless, systematic work.

Hunters and fishermen who came from the south settled on the seashores, near the mouths of rivers and small bays, where there was drinking water and it was easier to get food. The main fishing tools were bows with arrows, spears and harpoons. They knew how to block small rivers and catch fish with tops - traps woven from willow twigs or thin pine roots. The dwellings were semi-dugouts, in which fire was constantly maintained.

In the 4th - 3rd millennia BC, groups of people ethnically close to the tribes of the Volga-Oka interfluve came to the Arctic and settled along the banks of rivers and lakes of the inner part of the Kola Peninsula. Since their walls were decorated with deep pits and impressions of a comb stamp during the manufacture of pottery, they received the name of the tribes of the pit-comb ceramics culture.

The aliens already used boats and nets, bone fishhooks, and improved (with a rotating tip) harpoons in fishing. IN sea ​​bays they hunted seals and seals, and on land - deer and elk.

At the end of the 2nd - beginning of the 1st millennium BC, the climate of the Arctic changed again, becoming warmer and drier. Thick deciduous trees covered the North up to the Khibiny. At that time, the tribes of the culture of asbestos ceramics came to the Kola Peninsula from the Northern Urals (in the manufacture of vessels, they added crushed asbestos to the clay for strength, and an ornament in the form of a grid was applied to the walls), belonging to the Finno-Ugric group. These were people of small stature (men on average 155 cm) with a relatively wide face.

As a result of the mixing of newcomers with the old population of the region, a Finnish-speaking people - the ancient Sami - gradually developed. In their physical appearance, they resembled Europeans, but they also carried subtle features of oriental origin. The Norwegians called them "Terfinns" "Tersky Sami" (according to the then name of the Kola Peninsula "Ter" or "Tre"), the Russians called them "Lop", "Lapps".

The Saami occupied most of the territory of the peninsula and, depending on the habitat, were called differently: goblin, i.e. forest, lop (to the south-west of modern Kandalaksha), upper lop (in the area of ​​Imandra and Notozero), Konchan lop (to the north-west of the Kola Bay), Terek lop (east of the peninsula).

The first written information about the Saami came to us from the Norwegian navigator of the 9th century AD Oter, who sailed along the coast of the Kola land: “This whole country is deserted,” he wrote, “and only in a few places do terfinns live, who are engaged in hunting, fishing and catching birds."

The descriptions of the Russian pioneers are more detailed, according to which the Saami did not have huts, lived “in stone clefts”, ate “only animals - ... animals and birds and sea fish”, did not know either bread or vegetables; clothes were sewn from the skins of wild deer. They did not yet have domestic reindeer breeding. Hunting played an important role in the economy. But the main source of livelihood was fishing: in spring and summer - near the sea coast (in small bays and estuaries), and in autumn - in lakes rich in whitefish, pike, perch, grayling, trout. The Sami lived in clans, were pagans and worshiped their gods - seids, to whom they sacrificed part of the hunting prey. At the head of tribal groups were elders, who at the same time performed the duties of priests.

The Novgorodians were the first of the Russians to pave the way to the Far North. So, the chronicle tells about the Novgorodian Uleb, who in 1032 with his people reached White Sea, however, back "few of them came." Due to the lack of roads further Lake Onega I had to use rivers and small channels, sometimes dragging ships overland, making my way through forests and swamps, which made the path difficult and dangerous.

Fur

Furs, which were in great demand on the market, attracted Novgorodians to the “midnight countries”. Russian nobility and foreign merchants willingly bought the furs of sables, beavers, martens, and squirrels. In addition to furs, Novgorodians were interested in the fat of sea animals, walrus tusk, and valuable fish species.

Primitive barter with the peoples of the North was extremely profitable. Local residents, "begging for iron" (metal things), paid for a knife or ax with furs, which cost several times more.

Following the industrialists, Novgorod officials came to the Tersky coast, who imposed tribute on the Saami: from each Saami hunter - five squirrel skins a year. This payment was not heavy, but meant the recognition by the Saami of their dependence on Novgorod.

The first evidence of the existence of tributary relations between the Saami of the Kola Peninsula and Novgorod is contained in the chronicle under 1216, where among the noble Novgorodians Semyun Petrilovich is mentioned - "Tersky tributary" - a tribute collector from the Terek land. It is known that Prince Alexander Nevsky and his son Andrei sent people to the "Terskaya side" to catch gyrfalcons - birds used for hunting.

However, the rights of Novgorod the Great in the Arctic were disputed by the Norwegians, or, as they were called in Rus', "Murmans". In 1251, Alexander Nevsky managed to conclude an agreement with them, which determined the procedure and amount of tribute collection from the Saami. But this agreement was often violated, as a result of which clashes broke out between the Russians and the Norwegians, sometimes real wars for dominance in the Far North. Large and successful, for example, was the campaign of the Novgorodians against the "Murmans" in 1323, when, following the ships along the northern coast, the Russians, Karelians and Saami penetrated far to the west, captured and burned the palace of the ruler of Norway.

In 1419, 500 Murmans per sea ​​vessels- “beads and augers” - attacked the Karelian churchyard in the lower reaches of the Varzuga River and, having ruined it, went to the Dvina, but the coast-dwellers, “two augers Murman izbish”, the rest of the ships fled.

Ultimately, in a stubborn struggle, Novgorod the Great defended its polar possessions.

In the middle of the 15th century, the first Russian settlements appeared on the Tersky coast - Varzuga and Umba. The settlers came from the southwestern Pomorye, which was part of the Novgorod land.

The settlement of the Tersky coast by Russian people took place without any noticeable clashes with local residents, since no more than a thousand Saami lived on the Kola Peninsula during this period, and there were many unused fishing grounds everywhere. Some areas were sold by the Sami to the Russians.

Russian settlers - Pomors - noticeably overtook the Saami in the field of production and life. They brought with them a more complex system of social relations. All this could not but affect the development of the Saami society. Thanks to the exchange of goods with the Russian population, metal products, fabrics, fishing gear made of hemp yarn, and agricultural products penetrated into the Saami economy. The Saami got the opportunity to borrow production skills, to join Russian culture.

As a result of communication with the Russian population, religious ideas are gradually changing among the Saami, individual ownership of fishing grounds is emerging, the tribal system is weakening and disintegrating.

Thus, the inclusion of the Kola Peninsula in the Novgorod land and the rapprochement of the Saami with the Russian people became an important stage in the development of the region.

The settlement of the Kola Peninsula began a very long time ago. Archaeologists have discovered sites of people of the Stone Age. They belong to 7-11 thousand BC. The ancestors of the modern Saami appeared here in 2000 BC. Saami (Lapps) - indigenous people Kola Peninsula - since ancient times they have been engaged in reindeer herding, hunting, and fishing. Trade and the development of crafts in Europe required the development of new territories in order to use their natural resources. The first Russian settlements appeared on the peninsula in the 9th-11th centuries. The chronicles speak of the fabulous riches of Murman: furs, fish, deer, sea animals. In the XI century. Novgorodians on their ships have already plowed the waters of the White and Barents Seas.

In the X-XII centuries. Novgorodians took possession of a vast territory north of the Gulf of Finland and the Kola Peninsula to the Pechora basin. Already in the 1st half of the 12th century, the volost Tre (Tersky coast of the White Sea) was listed among the Novgorod lands, and in the 13th century the Russian villages of Varzuga and Kola were mentioned. The Russians quickly settled the coast of the peninsula, mastered the sea routes around the Tersky portage (as the Kola Peninsula was called in the annals). The appearance of Russians not only contributed to the development of the region, but also ensured the protection of the indigenous population from the raids of Western conquerors.

At a later time (1589-1591, 1611, several times in the 18th and early 19th centuries), Swedish and Danish troops, English pirates came to the land of Murman. They burned villages, robbed the population and monasteries, killed civilians. There is an ancient Sami legend that the Sami managed to defend their land, and the blood they spilled turned into a stone eudialyte (Lapp blood). In 1854-1855, during the Crimean War, the English fleet burned Kandalaksha, Keret, Strelna, Kola, but could not capture the coast.

In the 16th-18th century, the Kola Peninsula played a prominent role in the Russian economy. But by the beginning of the 19th century, the economic development of the region slowed down due to the discovery of new trade routes despite the huge natural resources peninsulas.

In the 17th century, the Sami began to breed deer. Before that, they simply caught wild deer and used them as vehicle and in food. Fishing was rapidly developing on the Murmansk coast. By the end of the century, 200-250 thousand pounds of fish were caught annually. In 1803, the White Sea Company for the extraction of fish and sea animals was formed. By the middle of the 19th century, up to 500 Pomeranian ships began to come to Murman annually, which caught more than 400 thousand pounds of fish. At the same time, about 5 thousand people lived on the Kola Peninsula by the beginning of the 19th century, and about 9 thousand people at its end.

Since the 1860s, Murman has become a shore of hope for many. The Russian authorities wanted to populate the border coast and, in order to attract and support settlers-colonists, were ready to provide them with various benefits and privileges. At the invitation of the Russian Tsar, about one and a half hundred immigrants from Norway, as well as from Finland, arrived here. Thus, large settlements of Norwegians were formed in Tsyp-Navolok on the Rybachy Peninsula, and Finns in Ura-Guba (Kola District).

The local history museum of Murmansk has an exhibition about Finnish and Norwegian settlers, their life and work on a permanent basis. The exhibition is called “Murman – the Shore of Hope. History of colonization. 1860-1940". Here you can learn about the fate of individual colonial families after the revolution, during the Great Terror and the Second World War, about life in the post-war and 90s. The exhibition has been assembled over the course of three years by the Norwegian Varanger Museum, which was joined by research institutes in Murmansk, Arkhangelsk, Rovaniemi, Helsinki and Tromso.

The central regions of the Kola Peninsula remained covered in a fog of uncertainty for a very long time. All the maps available before 1840 were incorrect in principle. And only in the summer of 1840, the route of A.F. crossed the middle part of the Kola Peninsula. Mendeldorf. The map of his route from Kola to Kandalaksha turned out to be a fairly accurate depiction of the Imandra basin.

Advanced geographical exploration The Kola Peninsula began only in the second half of the 19th century with the expeditions of N. Kudryavtsev (1881) and S. Rabo (1884), Finnish scientists V. Ramsay, A. Chilman and A. Petrelius (1887-1889). The topographer of the Finnish expedition A. Petrelius was the first to make a semi-instrumental survey of the Imandra basin. Geologist N.V. Kudryavtsev, along with geological observations, made sketches, collected interesting materials on the topography and toponymy of the region.

Culture of the Kola North

The main stages in the development of the culture of the Kola Arctic are generally accepted historical periods: the ancient world (Stone Age: Paleolithic, Mesolithic, Neolithic), the ancient world, the Middle Ages, modern times, modernity.

The formation of culture on the Kola Peninsula begins in the VI millennium BC. There are more than two hundred monuments on the territory of the Kola Peninsula mesolithic time. They are concentrated mainly along the sea coast, in bays at the confluence of the rivers Pechenga, Zapadnaya Litsa, Rynda, Kharlovka in the sea, on the Rybachy Peninsula. Chisels, knives, scrapers, arrowheads were found in these territories.

IN Neolithic era (5-3 thousand BC) culture is formed under the influence of the Finno-Ugric peoples, who moved north from 6 to 3-2 thousand BC. This is the time of formation of the ancient Saami cultural and historical community. The Neolithic culture of the Kola Peninsula is widely represented. These are camps at the mouth of the Kola, Tuloma, Ura-Guba rivers, on the rivers Kharlovka, Ponoy, Varzuga. It is distinguished by a high level of development of fisheries for sea animals, fishing, processing of skins, and construction of dwellings. The surviving rock carvings are sources for studying mythology and artistic activity of the ancient inhabitants of the Kola Arctic. These are rock carvings on the Rybachy Peninsula, on the Umba River and Kanozero. They depict game animals - deer, fish, birds, as well as male and female figures. The Sami language belongs to the northern branch of the Finno-Ugrian language.

Ancient world The culture of the peoples of the Kola Peninsula (copper, bronze, iron ages) is characterized by the rapid development and enrichment of culture through contacts with ancient civilization. The petroglyphs of that time were enriched with images of large groups of people, scenes of developed seafaring. Two of the most mysterious phenomena of the ancient world also belong to the Bronze Age: the construction of cult monuments - seids and the worship of these sacred stones and labyrinths made of stones on the ground near the water. Period 1 thousand BC - the first centuries A.D. is considered the highest flowering of the ancient Sami culture.

medieval culture The Kola Arctic covers approximately 14 centuries, starting with the great migration of peoples (3-4 centuries AD), the collapse of the Great Roman Empire in the 5th century. (476 - the last Roman emperor is overthrown) and ends in the 17th century. The medieval culture of the Saami is manifested in myths, fairy tales and art crafts. Saami myths are cosmological (about the creation of the world, space), eschatological (about the end of the world), totemic (deer), heroic, natural. Fairy tales - historical, magical, everyday. Fine, arts and crafts - fur products (fur mosaic), painting and appliqués on leather, beadwork, weaving from fabric, yarn, natural materials, birch bark products, wood and bone carving.

The distinguishing feature of this period is formation of Pomeranian culture. Natives of Novgorod, Staraya Ladoga, Rostov-Suzdal lands begin to develop the Kola Peninsula and by the beginning of the 12th century they settled north coast. It was the Pomors who called this region “Murman”.

In the XII century, the territory of the Kola Peninsula was subordinated to Novgorod. In the 15th century, Novgorod and its lands were annexed to the Moscow principality, and the Kola Peninsula became a strategic territory in protecting Russian lands from invaders. Moscow's ban on the distribution of land on the Kola Peninsula to private ownership served to develop monasteries(Kandalaksha, Trifono-Pechengsky), who were the only landowners in the northern territories.

Northern monasteries became not only distributors of Slavic culture in the developed lands, but also major shipbuilding centers. This was especially characteristic of the Solovetsky (founded in 1425) and Pechenga monasteries.

The administrative center until the XIX century. was a fortress-fort Kola. The first mention of the parish of Kolo dates back to 1264. In 1565, the Kola prison was built, named for its location at the mouth of the Kola River, which gave its name to the entire peninsula. In the XV-XVII centuries. Kola is the starting point for sea voyages for fishing to the islands of Svalbard (Grumant) and New Earth. Kola turned into a medieval settlement, whose inhabitants were engaged in crafts, trade or hired work from entrepreneurs. At the end of the 16th - beginning of the 17th century, the Kola region was repeatedly attacked by the Swedes. In 1582, the Moscow government sent a governor to Kola to organize the defense. With the introduction of the voivodship administration, Kola became the administrative center of the region. The Kola Uyezd included Lapland and North Karelia. With the construction of fortifications, Kola acquired the appearance of a city. Inside the prison there were churches, a governor's courtyard, an office, a prison, a guardhouse, warehouses and part of residential buildings. Kola received city status in 1784.

The absence of serfdom, the weak influence of urban culture, a specific way of life based on the sea industry, as well as the fusion of Slavic pagan ideas and Christian faith determine originality of Pomeranian culture. Vivid examples of Pomeranian artistic culture are wooden architecture (the church in the village of Varzuga, built in 1674), arts and crafts (chip birds, wooden toys, Pomeranian roes), oral folk art and musical folklore (epic texts, themes and genres of oral folk art, as in the middle lane). The sociocultural activity of the Pomors is also represented in the specifics of folk holidays and rituals that combine the ancient Slavic faith in the forces of nature and Christian traits. The Pomors brought a common Russian culture to the north. The presence of a dialect in the language, the originality of culture, customs, rituals (2 cycles - autumn-winter and spring-summer), rituals, holidays, features of artistic culture.

3. The development of culture on the Kola Peninsula in modern and modern times

The culture of the New Age in Russia begins to take shape at the end of the 17th century and includes the eras of the Enlightenment, Romanticism and Positivism. However, regional variants, as a rule, do not fit into this framework, developing unevenly and with an emphasis on traditional forms.

As for the Kola Peninsula, until the middle of the 19th century, it remained a sparsely populated area, the population of which was the Saami, Russian Pomors, and since 1887, Komi-Izhma and Nenets, developing pastures for reindeer herding. At the end of the 19th century, there were 19 permanent settlements on the coast of Murman. In the spring, White Sea fishermen arrived. The main activities remained marine fisheries and trade.

The most significant event of the late XIX century. was foundation of the city of Aleksandrovsk-on-Murman 1899 (now - Polar). It was a commercial and military port, which became the county center, where administrative institutions were transferred from Kola: the police department, the treasury, the hospital and the pharmacy. Were built, berths, warehouses, people's house, post and telegraph office, city school, residential buildings. Among the buildings stands out the five-domed church of St. Nicholas of Myra. At the beginning of the 20th century, ships of many polar expeditions - G. Brusilov, V. Rusanov and E. Toll - went to the Arctic from Aleksandrovsk. During the First World War, ships of the Arctic Ocean flotilla stood here. The foundation of Alexandrovsk was the beginning of the formation of the military sphere. The development of the trade and fishing sector was facilitated by the creation in 1871 of a cargo-and-passenger sea shipping company - the Partnership of the White Sea-Murmansk Express Shipping Company.

Regular voyages of passenger ships along the western coast of the Arctic Ocean attracted scientists and researchers to these parts. In the 19th century, active scientific and economic development of the Kola Peninsula began. Expeditions to the Kola North were organized, and articles on history, ethnography, geography, and archeology were published. The largest expedition in the XVIII century. was the Great Northern Expedition, carried out from 1733 to 1743 under the leadership of Bereng.

A new stage begins in the development of artistic culture. If in the Middle Ages it was inextricably linked with the mythology of the indigenous people and the religion of the Pomors (northern architecture, icon painting), then by the end of the 19th century. everything changes. This is due to the arrival of a research expedition to the Kola Peninsula, which included artists and writers. Representatives of the Moscow school of painting, who often visited the White Sea and Murman since the 1890s, are considered to be the pioneers of the Russian north: I. M. Pryanishnikov, K.A. Korovin, V. A. Serov, M. A. Vrubel, A. M. Vasnetsov, and M. V. Nesterov, A. E. Arkhipov. The artists who connected their work with the north were Vasily Krainev and Alexander Borisov.

Newest time(the era of Modernism and Postmodernism in world culture, and the Soviet and post-Soviet eras within the culture of Russia) on the Kola Peninsula is characterized by a stormy industrial and cultural development and significant changes in the way of life of the inhabitants of the north. The construction of cities, the railway led to a change in the composition of the population, which was enriched by workers, builders of mining plants. The industrial cities of Monchegorsk and Khibinogorsk appear. 1930s The Kola Peninsula is a zone of exile for repressed citizens and special settlers. This played a big role in the formation of culture, because. among the special settlers there were many doctors, teachers, scientists, artists.

The First World War and the Civil War, the intervention significantly reduced the merchant and trawl fleet of the north. After the liberation in February 1920, the expulsion of the interventionists and the White Guards from Murmansk and the restoration of Soviet power in the region, merchant and fishing vessels were nationalized. During the first two five-year plans, the Kola Peninsula turned into a large industrial region with enterprises, new cities, and important construction projects.

In addition, the Kola Peninsula is becoming the main naval base in the north of Russia. 1937 - date of creation Sevefleet.

Founded in October 1916 new town- Romanov-on-Murman, after the February Revolution, renamed Murmansk. The development of culture is concentrated around the capital of the Kola Arctic - Murmansk, which in the Soviet period was the largest naval and commercial and industrial base in the north. This circumstance predetermined the main professions of the townspeople, and, accordingly, the formation of industrial, educational, scientific, artistic, cultural and leisure spheres.

The artistic sphere is represented by works of fine, musical, theatrical art and literature. Fine arts have developed greatly. Marine painters are actively working in the post-war period. In 1965, the Union of Artists was formed in Murmansk .

Murmansk Regional Museum of Local Lore - the oldest museum in the region, founded on October 17, 1926. The museum is engaged in acquisition, storage, popularization of historical and cultural monuments of the Murmansk region. There are 17 exhibition halls here. The exposition "Nature" tells about the richness of the bowels of the Kola Peninsula, about the Kola super-deep well, listed in the Guinness Book of Records, about the flora and fauna of the region. The voiced diorama "Bird's Market", a diorama with imitation of aurora borealis and, of course, the aforementioned dry aquarium "Life of the Barents Sea", as well as materials about the resources of the Barents and White Seas, the activities of the Lapland, Kandalaksha and Pasvik nature reserves, the Polar-Alpine Botanical garden-institute, etc.

Murmansk Regional Puppet Theatre. It was founded in 1933. This is the oldest theater in Murmansk. The puppet theater focuses on Russian fairy tales, legends and traditions of the Saami, fairy tales of the peoples of the world.

Drama theater of the Northern Fleet. It was organized in 1936 in the city of Polyarny. After 10 years he moved to Murmansk. In the postwar years, People's Artist of the USSR Mikhail Pugovkin played here. Murmansk Regional Drama Theater created in 1939 on the basis of a branch of the Leningrad Bolshoi Drama Theater. M. Gorky. The theater was headed by S. A. Morshchikhin, artistic director, and A. V. Shubin, chief director. The official opening of the theater took place on February 1, 1939 with the play "Consul General". During the Great Patriotic War, T. G. Savina became the artistic director of the theater. For many years, the theater has been playing on the stage of the House of Culture. S. Kirov and, finally, in 1963 he moved to a new building on Lenin Avenue. With the arrival in the same year of the troupe of the chief director, student of G. A. Tovstonogov, V. V. Kiselev, a new stage in the creative life of the team begins.

The beginning of history Murmansk State Regional Universal Scientific Library is a meeting of the II Plenum of the Murmansk Regional Committee of the All-Union Communist Party of Bolsheviks dated November 28 - December 1, 1938, at which it was decided "... to organize a regional library in which to create a reference and bibliographic department on issues of a party-political and legal nature ..." In the first post-war For years, the library fund was 17 thousand copies and it was considered the largest book depository in the region. At that time, the main task of the library was to form funds, taking into account the specifics of the Murmansk region. As of January 1, 1949, the amount of literature in the library fund is 101,685 copies. In the interior design of the Library, works of arts and crafts created by local artists based on northern motifs were used. Today, the Murmansk State Regional Universal Scientific Library - the main library of the Kola Peninsula - is the largest cultural, educational, local history, information, and leisure center of our region.

Naval Museum of the Northern Fleet. It was founded in 1946. It is the youngest of the naval museums in Russia, but the materials collected in it are unique. According to its profile, the museum is military-historical. The museum collects, studies and stores naval monuments: weapons, naval flags, banners, orders and medals, documents, items of military paraphernalia, personal belongings of sailors who served in the Northern Fleet in different years. There are also models of submarines, surface ships and aircraft from different years. The museum funds include about 65 thousand exhibits. The expositions tell about the origin of the naval forces in the north of Russia, the creation and development of the Northern Fleet, its role in the Great Patriotic War, its significance in the post-war period to the present day.

Museum of the History of the Murmansk Shipping Company. It was opened in 1977. There are three halls: "The history of the development of the icebreaking and transport fleet", "Ships and people of the nuclear fleet", the diorama "Development of the Northern Sea Route". Many models of icebreakers and transport ships of the shipping company are exhibited in the halls of the museum. Many different instruments taken from old sea vessels are exhibited.

Murmansk Regional Art Museum. The only museum of fine arts in the Arctic. The museum was opened in 1989 in the very first stone building in Murmansk, erected in 1927. Currently, the art museum has more than 4 thousand items. The collection is based on works of contemporary domestic fine arts. A significant place in the collection is occupied by a collection of works by Murmansk artists, which gives a fairly complete picture of the development of fine arts in the Kola North in 1960-1990, of the most characteristic trends in the creative activity of the Murmansk branch of the Union of Artists. In the section of decorative and applied arts, samples of Russian art crafts are presented.

Regional center of art crafts. About 30 exhibitions a year are held in the halls of the center. Here you can see the products of the Sami craftsmen - cloth embroidered with beads, drawings on leather, wood, bone; products of Pomeranian antiquity - chipped birds, woven birch bark, hand-patterned weaving, knitwear, Pomeranian costume, "roe", amulets made of rye dough, lace.

Oceanarium opened in 1992. This is the northernmost aquarium in the world. It hosts performances with sea seals and excursions on the theme of the underwater life of the northern seas.

Coordinates : 68° N sh. 36° in. d. /  68° N sh. 36° in. d.  / 68; 36 (G) (I)

Kola Peninsula(mouth. Murman, Cola, Ter listen)) is a peninsula in the northwest of the European part of Russia, in the Murmansk region. It is washed by the Barents and White seas.

In the western part are mountain ranges Khibiny (height up to 1200 m) and Lovozero tundra (height up to 1120 m). In the north - tundra vegetation, to the south - forest tundra and taiga.

Borders

The Kola Peninsula occupies a little less than 70% of the area of ​​the Murmansk region. The western border of the Kola Peninsula is defined by the meridional depression, which runs from the Kola Bay along the Kola River, Imandra Lake, Niva River to Kandalaksha Bay.

Story

Physical and geographical characteristics

Geographical position

The Kola Peninsula is located in the far north of Russia. Almost the entire territory is located beyond the Arctic Circle.

In the north it is washed by the waters of the Barents Sea, in the south and east by the waters of the White Sea. The western boundary of the Kola Peninsula is the meridional depression, which runs from the Kola Bay along the valley of the Kola River, Lake Imandra and the Niva River to Kandalaksha Bay. The area is about 100 thousand km².

Climate

The climate of the peninsula is varied. In the northwest, warmed by the warm North Atlantic Current, it is subarctic marine. Towards the center, east and southwest of the peninsula, continentality increases - the climate here is moderately cold. Average January-February temperatures range from minus 8 °C in the northwest of the peninsula to minus 14 °C in the center; July, respectively, from 8 °C to 14 °C. Snow falls in October and completely disappears only by mid-late May (in mountainous areas in early-mid June). Frosts and snowfall are possible in summer. Frequent on the coast strong winds(up to 45-55 m / s), in winter - prolonged snowstorms.

Hydrology

There are many rivers flowing along the Kola Peninsula: Ponoy (the most long river on the peninsula), Varzuga, Kola, Yokanga, Teriberka, Voronya, Umba, etc.

There are a large number of lakes, the largest are Imandra, Umbozero, Lovozero.

Geological structure


In the western part of the Kola Peninsula, which has a dissected relief, the territory reaches greatest heights. There are separate mountain ranges with flat tops, separated by depressions: Khibiny and Lovozero tundra. Their heights reach 900-1,000 m. (397 m), consisting of separate chains stretched from northwest to southeast along the central part of the peninsula.

The Kola Peninsula occupies eastern part Baltic crystalline shield, in the geological structure of which powerful strata of the Archean and Proterozoic take part. The Archaean is represented by highly metamorphosed and intensely dislocated gneisses and granites, in places cut through by pegmatite bodies. Proterozoic deposits are more diverse in composition - quartzites, crystalline schists, sandstones, marbles, partly gneisses interbedded with greenstone rocks.

Minerals

In terms of the variety of mineral species, the Kola Peninsula has no analogues in the world. About 1000 minerals have been discovered on its territory - almost 1/3 of all known on Earth. About 150 minerals are found nowhere else. Deposits of apatite-nepheline ores (Khibiny), iron, nickel, platinum metals, rare earth metals, lithium, titanium, beryllium, building and jewelry and ornamental stones (amazonite, amethyst, chrysolite, garnet, jasper, iolite, etc.), ceramic pegmatites , mica (muscovite, phlogopite and vermiculite - the world's largest reserves).

Relief and nature

Flora and fauna

Infrastructure

The cities of Murmansk, Apatity, Severomorsk, Kirovsk, Ostrovnoy, Kola and Kandalaksha and the urban-type settlements of Safonovo, Kildinstroy, Revda and Umba are located on the peninsula.

The Russian Northern Fleet's bases of Severomorsk and Gremikha are located on the peninsula. Severomorsk is the headquarters of the Northern Fleet.

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An excerpt characterizing the Kola Peninsula

In St. Petersburg, Helen enjoyed the special patronage of a nobleman who occupied one of the highest positions in the state. In Vilna, she became close to a young foreign prince. When she returned to Petersburg, the prince and the nobleman were both in Petersburg, both claimed their rights, and for Helen a task new in her career presented itself: to maintain her close relationship with both without offending either one.
What would have seemed difficult and even impossible for another woman never made Countess Bezukhova think, not without reason, apparently, she had a reputation as the smartest woman. If she began to hide her actions, to extricate herself by cunning from an awkward situation, she would thereby ruin her business, realizing herself guilty; but Helen, on the contrary, immediately, as true great person, who can do whatever she wants, put herself in the position of rightness, in which she sincerely believed, and all others in the position of guilt.
For the first time, as a young foreign face allowed herself to reproach her, she, proudly raising her beautiful head and turning half-turn to him, said firmly:
- Voila l "egoisme et la cruaute des hommes! Je ne m" attendais pas a autre chose. Za femme se sacrifie pour vous, elle souffre, et voila sa recompense. Quel droit avez vous, Monseigneur, de me demander compte de mes amities, de mes affections? C "est un homme qui a ete plus qu" un pere pour moi. [Here is the selfishness and cruelty of men! I didn't expect anything better. The woman sacrifices herself to you; she suffers, and here is her reward. Your highness, what right have you to demand from me an account of my affections and friendships? This is a man who was more than a father to me.]
The face wanted to say something. Helen interrupted him.
- Eh bien, oui, she said, - peut etre qu "il a pour moi d" autres sentiments que ceux d "un pere, mais ce n" est; pas une raison pour que je lui ferme ma porte. Je ne suis pas un homme pour etre ingrate. Sachez, Monseigneur, pour tout ce qui a rapport a mes sentiments intimes, je ne rends compte qu "a Dieu et a ma conscience, [Well, yes, maybe the feelings he has for me are not entirely paternal; but from for this I should not refuse him my house. I am not a man to pay with ingratitude. Let it be known to your highness that in my intimate feelings I give account only to God and my conscience.] - she finished, touching her hand to raised high beautiful breasts and looking at the sky.
Mais ecoutez moi, au nom de Dieu. [But listen to me, for God's sake.]
- Epousez moi, et je serai votre esclave. [Marry me and I will be your work.]
- Mais c "est impossible. [But this is impossible.]
- Vous ne daignez pas descende jusqu "a moi, vous ... [You do not condescend to marry me, you ...] - Helen said, crying.
The face began to comfort her; Helen, through tears, said (as if forgetting) that nothing could prevent her from getting married, that there were examples (there were still few examples then, but she named Napoleon and other high persons), that she had never been the wife of her husband, that she was sacrificed.
“But laws, religion…” the face was already giving up.
- Laws, religion ... What would they have been invented if they could not do this! Ellen said.
The important person was surprised that such a simple reasoning could not occur to him, and he turned for advice to the holy brothers of the Society of Jesus, with whom he was in close relations.
A few days after that, at one of the charming holidays that Helen gave at her dacha on Kamenny Island, she was introduced to a middle-aged, with snow-white hair and black sparkling eyes, charming m r de Jobert, un jesuite a robe courte, [r Mr. Jaubert, a Jesuit in a short dress,] who for a long time in the garden, by the light of illumination and by the sound of music, talked with Helen about love for God, for Christ, for the heart mother of god and about the consolations brought in this life and in the next life by the one true Catholic religion. Helen was touched, and several times she and Mr. Jobert had tears in their eyes and their voices trembled. The dance, to which the gentleman came to call Helen, upset her conversation with her future directeur de conscience [guardian of conscience]; but the next day mr de Jobert came alone in the evening to Helene, and from that time began to visit her frequently.
One day he took the countess to a Catholic church, where she knelt before the altar, to which she was led. A middle-aged charming Frenchman put his hands on her head, and, as she herself later told, she felt something like a breath of fresh wind that descended into her soul. It was explained to her that it was la grace [grace].
Then the abbot was brought to her a robe longue [in a long dress], he confessed her and remitted her sins to her. The next day, a box containing the sacrament was brought to her and left at home for her to use. After a few days, Helen learned to her pleasure that she had now entered the true Catholic Church, and that in a few days the pope himself would find out about her and send her some kind of paper.
Everything that was done during this time around her and with her, all this attention paid to her by so many intelligent people and expressed in such pleasant, refined forms, and the pigeon purity in which she now found herself (she wore all this time white dresses with white ribbons) - all this gave her pleasure; but because of this pleasure, she did not miss her goal for a moment. And as always happens that in a matter of cunning, a stupid person leads smarter ones, she, realizing that the purpose of all these words and troubles was mainly to convert her to Catholicism, to take money from her in favor of the Jesuit institutions (about which she hinted), Helen, before giving money, insisted that she be subjected to those various operations that would free her from her husband. In her conception, the significance of any religion consisted only in the fact that, in satisfying human desires, to observe certain decorum. And for this purpose, in one of her conversations with her confessor, she urgently demanded from him an answer to the question of the extent to which her marriage binds her.
They sat in the living room by the window. There were dusk. Flowers smelled from the window. Helen was wearing a white dress that showed through her shoulders and chest. The abbot, well-fed, but with a plump, smoothly shaven beard, a pleasant strong mouth and white hands folded meekly on his knees, sat close to Helen and with a thin smile on his lips, peacefully - admiring her beauty with a look from time to time looked at her face and expounded his opinion to their question. Helen smiled uneasily, looked at his curly hair, smooth-shaven, blackening, full cheeks, and waited every minute for a new turn in the conversation. But the abbe, although obviously enjoying the beauty and intimacy of his companion, was carried away by the skill of his craft.
The reasoning of the leader of conscience was as follows. In ignorance of the significance of what you were undertaking, you made a vow of marriage fidelity to a man who, for his part, having entered into marriage and not believing in religious significance marriage, committed blasphemy. This marriage did not have the double meaning it should have. But in spite of that, your vow bound you. You backed off from him. What did you do with it? Peche veniel or peche mortel? [A venial sin or a mortal sin?] Peche veniel, because you did an act without ill intent. If you now, in order to have children, would enter into a new marriage, then your sin could be forgiven. But the question again splits in two: the first ...

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE KOLA PENINSULA

The Kola Peninsula is located in the extreme northwest of the European part of Russia and makes up most of the Murmansk region (this section provides only the most necessary general information about the Kola Peninsula for tourists, since its natural conditions, population, economics and history is the subject of extensive literature).

RELIEF OF THE KOLA PENINSULA

The Kola Peninsula is located on the northeastern tip of the Baltic crystalline shield, composed mainly of the oldest crystalline igneous rocks: granites, gneisses, diabases. The main features of the relief of the Kola Peninsula are due to numerous faults and cracks in the crystalline shield. The relief of the peninsula also bears traces of the powerful impact of glaciers, which smoothed the tops of the mountains and left a large number of boulders and moraine deposits. According to the nature of the relief, the Murmansk region can be divided into two regions: Western and Eastern. It is generally accepted that the border of these regions passes through the valley of the Voronya River, Lovozero, Umbozero and the valley of the Umba River. The relief of the western part is more complex than that of the eastern part. Through Western part there is a deep meridional depression occupied by the valleys of the Kola and Niva rivers and Lake Imandra. In the north Western District a high plateau (up to 250 m) abruptly breaks off towards the Barents Sea, forming rocky shores up to 100 m high, indented bays- fiords. To the south-west of the Murmansk coastal plateau lies the wide Tulomo-Notozero depression, in which the basins of the Lotta, Tuloma and Notozero rivers are located. South of the Tulomo-Notozero depression - the Central mountainous region, located between state border Russia and Lovozero. River valleys and lakes divide this ridge into separate massifs - tundra (on the Kola Peninsula, not only vast treeless expanses of the tundra belt zone, but also treeless mountain ranges are called tundra). Roslin, Tuadash, Greasy, Chuna, Monche, Volchi, Khibiny and Lovozero tundras stand out for their height.

To the south of the mountainous region lies the Southern Lake Lowland, stretching from the border with Finland to the middle reaches of the Umba. This spacious lowland is occupied by vast swamps and numerous lakes. Elevations up to 500 m high are also found here. In the northwest, the lowland is bounded by tundras - Korva, Vuva, Liva, Zayachya and Nyavka, in the southwest - by the heights of Rikolatva and Kelesuaiv. From the southwest, the lowland is closed by the Kandalaksha (600 m) and Kolvitsky (780 m) mountains, adjacent to the Kandalaksha beret and falling steeply to the White Sea. A significant part of the lowland is occupied by the Pirenga river basin, consisting of lakes connected by short channels (lakes and rivers Yena, Kokh, Kalozhnoe, Chalma, Upper and Lower Pirenga lakes).

The eastern region of the Kola Peninsula can be divided into three parts according to the relief: northern, central and southern. The northern part is a plateau, abruptly breaking off to the Barents Sea and the throat of the White Sea. The plateau is crossed by many gorges and transverse fissures, through which the Kharlovka, Iokanga, Vostochnaya Litsa, and Ponoy rivers flow. To the south, the plateau gradually rises to 300 m and abruptly breaks off to the central marshy lowland. This edge of the plateau is called the Keiva Ridge. South of Keiva in the central part eastern region the Central marsh plain is located, occupying the upper and middle reaches of the Ponoi and the upper reaches of the Varzuga and Strelna. The southern part is a plain, plane tree, and in some places in the form of terraces, falling to the shores of the White Sea. There are pools on the plain downstream Varzuga, Strelna, Chapomy, Chavangi.

VEGETATION OF THE KOLA PENINSULA

There are three zones of vegetation on the Kola Peninsula: tundra, forest-tundra and forest. The tundra zone occupies a coastal strip 30–60 km wide in the north and northeast of the peninsula. The main vegetation here is mosses, lichens, creeping varieties of dwarf birch and willow. Through the valleys major rivers woody shrubs are found. The forest-tundra zone stretches in a strip from 10 to 60 km south of the tundra. The characteristic vegetation is a birch crooked forest with an admixture of spruce and undersized pine. Various types of shrubs and mosses are found in abundance. In relatively dry places, reindeer moss covers the soil and stones with a thick layer. In the forest-tundra, there are extensive berry fields (lingonberries, cloudberries, blueberries, crowberries) and a lot of mushrooms (boletus, boletus, volnushki, russula).

All South part peninsula belongs to the forest zone. Here are pine-spruce forests with an admixture of birch, aspen, mountain ash, willow, alder. The forests of the Kola are heavily swamped, so shrubs and herbaceous moss vegetation are widespread in them. The south-west of the Murmansk region and the basins of Umba, Varzuga, Strelna are especially wooded. In mountainous areas, vertical zonality of vegetation cover is observed. Up to a height of 300-400 m there is forest vegetation, heights of 400-600 m are occupied by birch crooked forests and shrubs, and above 600-650 m only rare shrubs and lichens grow.

ANIMAL WORLD OF THE KOLA PENINSULA

Diverse animal world Kola Peninsula. Taiga and tundra animals are found here: bear, wolf, hare, marten, fox, squirrel, elk, reindeer, wolverine, arctic fox, lemming-pied. In recent years, muskrat and mink have been acclimatized, and beavers have been released. Seals, seals, bearded seals and other marine animals live in the waters of the White and Barents Seas. There are about 200 species of birds on the peninsula. A lot of sea birds: gulls, guillemots, guillemots, puffins. On the northern coast there are large bird colonies. In the tundra live white and tundra partridges, in the forests - hazel grouse, capercaillie, black grouse. 10 species of ducks, geese, swans nest on the lakes. The Kola Peninsula is an area where there are a lot of mosquitoes, midges and gadflies. The seas washing the peninsula, lakes and rivers of the Kola are rich in fish.

There are over 110 species of fish in the Barents Sea, of which 22 are commercial (cod, haddock, sea bass, saithe, herring, flounder, etc.). There are sharks, dolphins and even whales in the sea, pike, perch, grayling, whitefish, char, vendace in rivers and lakes. Particularly valuable is salmon, which has long been fished on the peninsula, in large lakes there is a trout. There are two nature reserves on the Kola Peninsula: Kandalaksha and Lapland. They preserve untouched samples of the nature of the North, create conditions for the preservation and increase in the number of rare animals and birds. The Kandalaksha Reserve occupies a significant part of the Kandalaksha Skerries, Veliky Island and the Kem-Ludsky Archipelago in the Kandalaksha Bay of the White Sea. The reserve also includes the Seven Islands archipelago and the Ainovy ​​Islands in the Barents Sea. The territory of the reserve includes the corners of the North, diverse in natural conditions and wildlife, where there is the northern taiga, tundra, and forest-tundra crooked forests, rocky and sandy shores of the islands, high cliffs of the sea coast with huge bird colonies.

The reserve was founded in 1939. One of its main tasks was to study, preserve and increase the number of the eider, the most valuable northern bird. Currently, on the islands of the Kandalaksha Skerries (the reserve includes about 50 islands), there are more than 3,000 eider nests. In the Lapland Reserve, located west of Monchegorsk, natural complexes northern taiga and mountain tundra of the Kola Peninsula. All characteristic Kola landscapes are represented here, with the exception of the sea coast and flat tundra. One of the main tasks of the reserve is the protection and study of wild reindeer. In 1960, there were about 1,400 deer in the reserve.

CLIMATE OF THE KOLA PENINSULA

The climate of the Kola Peninsula differs significantly from the climate of other northern and polar regions of our country. The North Cape branch of the Gulf Stream, which invades from the northwest, brings heat with it, due to which it is warmer on the northern coast of the peninsula in winter than in the middle zone of the European part of Russia. It can be said that on the Kola north and south changed places: the washing northern shores The Barents Sea does not freeze all year round, and in the south of the White Sea peninsula it is ice-bound in winter. Three climatic zones can be distinguished within the Kola Peninsula: the sea coast, central region And mountain part. The climate of the northern sea coast is determined by the influence of the Barents Sea. The average air temperature of the coldest month (February) ranges from -6-12°C, the warmest (July) +12-13°C. In the regions of the central part, the climate is continental, with relatively warm summers and stable winters. From the coast to the interior of the continent average annual temperatures go down. The most continental climate points are Yena and Krasnoshchelye. The average January temperature in Jena is -14.3°C, in Krasnoshchelye -13.7°C. In the upper reaches of the Ponoi River, especially low temperatures are observed (up to -50 ° C). The mountainous climatic region has colder summers, relatively mild winters, and a lot of precipitation. The maximum average monthly temperature (July) is +10°C, the minimum (January) is -13°C.

The temperature on Kola is subject to frequent changes: thaws are possible in any winter months, and frosts in summer. This is due to the fact that cold air masses coming from the northeast collide with warm air currents over the peninsula. The Kola Peninsula belongs to areas with excessive humidity (about 80%). The least amount of precipitation falls in the north (up to 400 mm), the most in the proud regions (up to 1000 mm). Most of The peninsula lies north of the Arctic Circle, so here in the summer the sun does not set for a month and a half, and in winter the polar night lasts for the same time. Spring is rather late. The snow melts in late May - early June, at the same time the lakes open up. Summer comes stormily and quickly, since its beginning coincides with the establishment of the polar day. At the end of June, flowers bloom, young foliage appears on the trees, night frosts stop (sometimes there are several cold nights during the summer). In the mountainous areas, spring and summer are delayed for a while: when all the trees in the lowlands are already green, buds are just swelling there. The polar summer lasts 2.5-3 months: from mid-June to the end of August-beginning of September. During this short time, the diverse and rich vegetation cover of the mountains and plains of the Kola Peninsula comes to life. During the summer, there are drastic changes in the weather. The weather is especially changeable in the mountains, where rains and fogs are frequent. Most of the precipitation in the mountains falls in the summer.

Autumn comes in late August - early September. In the last week of August, many trees turn yellow, and there are more and more night frosts. At this time, mosquitoes and midges disappear, especially numerous in July and early August. Snow falls at the end of September, and even earlier in the mountains. However, a stable snow cover falls only by the first decade of November. The air temperature drops rapidly at the end of September. In September, sometimes in August, you can already observe the northern lights, one of the most amazing and beautiful natural phenomena. Rivers freeze in mid or late November, covered with ice a little earlier small lakes. Only in the rapids areas freeze-up is delayed by 1.5-2 months, and powerful rapids do not freeze all winter. The thickness of ice on rivers and lakes ranges from 70 to 110 cm. The snow cover is uneven and depends mainly on the terrain and the prevailing winds in the area.

November is already a winter month, when very coldy. The day is significantly reduced, the whole of December and the beginning of January the sun does not appear over the horizon. In March and April, the day lengthens, the weather becomes quite stable, the snow is covered with a strong crust, the air temperature, especially in the mountains, rises (in the Khibiny, for example, the average temperature in March is -9 ° C, April -2 ° C). In the evening and at night, however, a significant drop in temperature is possible (down to -30°C and below).