Where are the Galapagos Islands. Galapagos Islands on the world map: an extraordinary place on Earth

- a unique place where the most kind and unusual animals in the world live. And you can meet them, stepping on the archipelago, within minutes, if not seconds.

Where are the Galapagos Islands

- the famous archipelago that inspired Charles Darwin to create the theory of natural selection. The islands are located in the Pacific Ocean off the coast South America. On the islands of the archipelago with fields of frozen lava flows, cactus forests covered with lush emerald vegetation, high mountains, transparent turquoise bays and serene tropical beaches with the purest white sand, the most unique and stunning creatures live.

For those who do not know, let's say that this mysterious archipelago is located 1000 kilometers from the coast of the continental part of Ecuador. They are right on the equator line. The archipelago is made up of volcanic islands who chose, frankly, not the most peaceful place to live. This is one of the most active parts of the earth's crust, at the junction of three constantly drifting tectonic plates. This young formation is only 5 million years old, and - judging by recent manifestations volcanic activity- it has not yet acquired its final form. Dilapidated craters, fields of hardened lava flows and placers of volcanic ash are visible everywhere.

Galapagos Islands - a brief description

The archipelago consists of thirteen islands with an area of ​​​​more than 10 square kilometers, six small and more than a hundred tiny uninhabited islets. Despite the size, each island has its own unique atmosphere, landscape and unique wildlife. Many local inhabitants are endemic not only for the entire Galapagos archipelago as a whole, but also for each island separately. Therefore, the more islands you visit, the more unique native animals you can see.

You definitely won’t be bored here: for example, one day you can watch elephant turtles mottled with traces of time, slowly waddling in the foggy haze of the local highlands. And the next - it's already fun to swim underwater with restless sea lions in the crystal clear waters of the archipelago. Or sunbathe on black lava rocks next to marine iguanas, similar to the descendants of prehistoric dinosaurs. Another option is to lurk near the Galapagos albatrosses to enjoy their mating dances, famous for their entertainment all over the world. During dances, albatrosses freeze with spread wings and a fanned tail. Then they stretch their neck, throw their heads back and begin to rhythmically stamp their paws.

Beauty of the Galapagos Islands

It is almost impossible to exaggerate the miracles that are fraught with them.

Here, every corner - including numerous shallow waters, beaches and trails - is littered with amazingly friendly and inquisitive animals, so unique that even from a distance they resemble them can not be found anywhere else in the world. Only here you can see such unique wonders of nature as, for example, tropical penguins, or boobies with bright blue paws, which seem to have been specially painted for them. Here you can also meet woodpecker tree finches - one of the few pichugas that use real tools - cactus needles, as well as male magnificent frigatebirds, in the mating season, like a balloon, inflating their red throat pouches to attract females.

The uniqueness of the archipelago also lies in the fact that in many respects it has been preserved almost unchanged since the distant 1835, when Charles Darwin first set foot on its lands. But, unfortunately, change is not far off. Incessant demand Asian countries on holothurians (the "sea cucumbers" that live in local waters) and shark fins has led to the widespread spread of illegal poaching, devastating and ruining the once incredibly rich diverse marine life water. The rapid growth of the flow of immigrants, combined with the seven-league pace of economic growth, has caused an incredible influx of people who settled on the islands of the archipelago (today, the permanent local population exceeds 30 thousand people who live on four different islands). But the worst thing is that they also brought dangerous "baggage" with them in the form of alien mammals, insects, plants and diseases. They represent serious threat for the incredibly fragile ecosystem of the archipelago.

But, among the most striking changes that have occurred in the archipelago in recent years, one can attribute the annually increasing number of tourists arriving there. Since 1991, when the archipelago was visited by no more than 40 thousand tourists, the number of hunters for local attractions has increased exactly 4 times and today is 160 thousand.

This has led to the fact that from time to time the most popular tourist trails here become so busy that they literally cannot be crowded with tourists, as on the sidewalks of the main streets. big cities. But it's not all bad. Despite the changes that have taken place, the archipelago still has quiet secluded corners where you can relax, and the local wildlife, in spite of everything, remains as friendly and surprisingly disposed to people as it was in Darwin's time.

Galapagos: wildlife of the islands

The most interesting of the "hot ten" animals, for which most tourists go to, are: the Galapagos penguin, the Galapagos flightless cormorant, the blue-footed booby, the Galapagos albatross, the magnificent frigate, Darwin, or earthen, finches (any of all 13 species), elephant, or the giant Galapagos, tortoise, marine iguana, Galapagos sea lion and fur seal. All other living creatures are welcomed as a nice bonus. All of these animals, with the exception of blue-footed boobies and magnificent frigatebirds, which are found almost everywhere, are unique endemic species that cannot be seen anywhere else on earth.

Forced to live in the hot tropics, Galapagos penguins mainly congregate on the islands of the western tip of the archipelago, where the water temperature is kept at a fairly low level due to the cold currents prevailing in the area. Galapagos penguins can be seen in various places in the archipelago, but the only areas of their breeding are only two islands - Isabela and Fernandina. In addition, these two islands are also the only breeding area for Galapagos flightless cormorants. As the name implies, these cormorants cannot fly, but use their short, underdeveloped wings to maintain balance while jumping from rock to rock. The rarest Galapagos albatrosses breed only on the island of Hispaniola, which is part of the archipelago, and nowhere else in the world (with the exception of a few pairs nesting on the small island of Isla de la Plata, whose name in Spanish means "Silver Island") located near the continental part of Ecuador). You can watch these amazing birds on the island from April to December.

The most legendary feathered inhabitants of the archipelago are ground finches, or, as they are also called, Darwins. As a result of his five-week stay on the "enchanted" islands of the archipelago, Darwin suggested that at least a dozen species of rather unremarkable little birds found here once arose from a single species that lived on the continent. It is this assumption that formed the basis major discovery in the science of that time. The basis for the guess was the various forms of the beak that the birds possessed, as well as their clear specialization in a particular type of food. Putting it all together, Darwin came to the conclusion that they developed their differences in the struggle for survival in order to carve out their own niche. Therefore, some of them hunt for small insects, while others have received an abundance of seeds and have been preserved as a result of evolution.

Other, no less amazing inhabitants of the Galapagos Islands became famous all over the world - almost as ancient as the world, elephant, or giant Galapagos, turtles.

Given the huge size of the turtles, reaching 1.5 meters in length, as well as the general impression that is created by the sight of these animals, as if overgrown with centuries-old moss, with a wrinkled head hiding in a shell and a good-natured toothless grin, they look more like people from the prehistoric era.
It is believed that at one time 15 different subspecies of elephant tortoises lived on the islands of the archipelago, which differed significantly from each other in size, shell shape and distribution area. However, 4 of them died out almost immediately after the arrival of the first people on the islands (in general, the total number of their population, which previously amounted to 250 thousand, has now decreased to approximately 15 thousand individuals).

All giant Galapagos tortoises are long-lived and mostly live to at least a centenary. This may mean that some tortoises that have survived to this day lived on the islands as early as Darwin's time. The best places to observe the giant Galapagos tortoises, according to generally accepted opinion, the highlands of Santa Cruz Island, the vicinity of Alcedo Volcano and Isabela Island, where their largest population lives, are considered. In addition, they are also found in small numbers on the islands of San Cristobal, Santiago, Hispaniola and Pinzon.

And completing the list of animals that have become real symbols of the Galapagos, the unsurpassed marine iguanas are the only lizards in the world that spend most of their time in the sea. In total, up to 300,000 marine iguanas live in the waters of the Galapagos Islands, therefore, given such a wide distribution, it is rather difficult not to see them there, rather than vice versa. Lazily basking in the sun after tiring dives, they take a motionless pose and “blow out” through their nostrils the excess salt, which is so rich in sea ​​water. That's where that white foam on the muzzles comes from.

The seas surrounding the archipelago are incredibly rich in the brightest marine life, so scuba diving here promises many amazing meetings and unforgettable experiences. And this is the best way to get to know the incredibly perky sea lions that are found almost everywhere here.

Fur seals are traditionally more elusive, but there are still a couple of places on the territory of the archipelago where an encounter with them is almost guaranteed (the best of them, where these amazing creatures can be seen with quite close range, certainly considered a seal grotto on the island of Santiago).

In addition, in the waters of the archipelago you can also swim underwater with penguins, flightless cormorants, marine iguanas, green turtles and more than 300 species of colorful fish.

As far as marine life goes, there's an almost limitless variety to be seen underwater, from common spotted eagles to yellowtail damselfish and sharks, of which the reef shark is by far the most common, but if you're lucky, you can also spot darktip reef sharks. , Galapagos gray sharks, hammerhead sharks and even the elusive whale sharks.

Nevertheless, depending on who exactly you want to see, it is important not only to choose the right place, but also the time, since the opportunities for observing and communicating with local animals vary significantly depending on the specific season and even month. For example, you can watch how green sea turtles lay their eggs in January. Get an unforgettable experience of swimming with "jet" penguins in the waters of Bartolome Island - from May to the end of September.

Humpback whales begin to move into the water area closer to June. The period from July to the end of September is considered the best for watching seabirds, as it falls on the peak of their annual activity. The peak of the season for the birth of newborn sea lions comes around August, while they become older and more active around November and during snorkeling they give tourists real heat, in general, they do not give a minute of rest. And finally, in December, giant cubs hatch from eggs. Galapagos tortoises.

Galapagos Islands — excursions, tours

In total, there are more than 60 places on the territory of the archipelago that are allowed to visit and conduct tourist excursions.

Santa Cruz (Indefatigable)

Most tours of the Galapagos Islands originate on the island of Santa Cruz, formed on the site of a huge extinct volcano. The island itself is located near the main airport of the archipelago on the island of Baltra, and its capital - the city of Puerto Ayora - is the largest settlement in the Galapagos with the most big amount residents.

Not far from the administrative center is the famous research station named after Charles Darwin, where you can get hold of valuable information about the history of the island and the work of protection environment sponsored by the International Charles Darwin Foundation. In addition, the station operates a giant tortoise feeding and conservation program that breeds juveniles of this fragile species.

But above all, the island is known for being the last refuge for the most famous and ancient bachelor in the world - “Lonely George”, an inhabitant who has become a real legend of the archipelago, the last of the representatives of the Abingdon elephant tortoise subspecies that lived on Pinta Island. In addition, while looking around the island, you can see the Galapagos shepherds, at least nine species of ground finches, Galapagos mockingbirds, fire flyeaters, and many other equally amazing birds.

A captivating path to the highlands of Santa Cruz Island, through countless farmlands, leads straight into misty forests full of a wide variety of birds. In addition, if you listen carefully, you can hear how giant Galapagos tortoises make their way through the dense thickets lining the forest. With a little luck, you can even see one of them in person. You can also see woodpecker tree finches, the most fascinating representatives of the feathered family - one of the few that use tools. In fact, these savvy finches have long adapted to use the cactus needle as a tool for getting insects and larvae from the cavities of wood.

The snorkeling experience on Santa Cruz Island also has the potential to be completely unforgettable. Cape Estrada and Las Bajas Beach are considered the best places for scuba diving on the island, although Tortuga Bay and Las Grietas Lagoon are also, without any doubt, more than good.

Santa Fe Island (Barrington)

Located in the middle between the islands of Santa Cruz and San Cristobal, Santa Fe has the most flat relief compared to the rest of the neighbors in the archipelago. With clear turquoise water lagoons and fine white sand beaches, this island could well claim to be the perfect model for a lost tropical paradise.

The island is home to several colonies of Galapagos sea lions, making it one of the best places for energetic dancing in quiet clear waters surrounding lagoons with these incredibly frisky and cheerful animals. A winding path passes through an unusual forest, consisting of 10-meter prickly pear cacti, on which the Santa Fe Island pale conolophos, an endemic subspecies, often come across. land iguanas. In addition, this by all standards unique forest is considered an excellent place to observe the Galapagos buzzards, which, sitting safely on thorny cacti, can come close enough to them. And from the steep coastal cliffs, stunning panoramic views open up.

Floreana Island (other names - Santa Maria, Charles Island) Floreana is considered the oldest settlement on the archipelago, since long before tourists, pirates and whalers loved to stop here centuries ago.

In the area of ​​Cape Cormoran, located on the north coast of the island, there are two magnificent beaches (on one of which the sand is so fine and clean that from a distance it can be mistaken for accidentally spilled flour), where green sea turtles lay their eggs between January and May . And in a secluded estuary between the beaches, a whole colony of stunningly beautiful red flamingos hides from prying eyes.

Crowning all this splendor is the "Devil's Crown" - a nearby semi-submerged volcanic cone, diving in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwhich promises a truly unforgettable experience. Here you can get up close and personal with Galapagos sea lions, green sea turtles, octopuses and myriads of colorful marine fish. If you're lucky, you can even see a hammerhead shark here.

Along the way, you should definitely visit Post Office Bay, where for a long time there is a large wooden barrel, which also serves as an impromptu mailbox. Despite the fact that it was brought here by British whalers in 1793, it is still used today. Continuing a long tradition, tourists drop their letters into it in case a person living in their neighborhood visits here - they are required to find a letter in the barrel and put it in the mailbox when they return home.

Hispaniola Island (Hood)

This remote island, located on the southeastern edge of the archipelago, is best known for being the only nesting site for the rare Galápagos albatross. Between April and December for coastal rocks At Cape Suarez, approximately 12,000 pairs of albatrosses nest alongside the blue-faced boobies. The island also hosts the largest colony of blue-footed boobies in the entire archipelago, and along the coast in in large numbers there are marine and lava iguanas. Water jets erupt like geysers to a height of up to 20 meters from the vent located here, giving the landscape a special spectacle.

Gardner Bay, located on the northeast coast of the island, is mainly remarkable for its magnificent beaches, as if powdered with the finest white sand, which is home to an entire colony of Galapagos sea lions, swimming with which is sure to bring a lot of amazing experiences. idyllic sandy shores the islands are the main egg laying area for green sea turtles, and further towards the impregnable cliff of Tortuga, under water, you can find entire constellations of bright sea fish. On the shore, mockingbirds, belonging to the endemic subspecies of the island of Hispaniola, and other unique inhabitants of the island, local lava iguanas, scurry about.

San Cristobal Island (Chatham)

In addition to the local administrative center, the city of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, San Cristobal Island also has several excellent places to observe the unique local fauna.

On Fregatbird Hill (which means “hill of frigates”), you can observe magnificent and large frigatebirds. In addition, from the hill opens great view spread out below azure bay. El Junco Lagoon, located in the mountainous part of the island, is notable for being the only freshwater body of water in the Galapagos Islands. Its surroundings are considered an excellent place for observing wading birds and other local representatives of the feathered family. A truly unique place is Cape Pitt, located on the northeast coast of the island, where all three species of gannets living on the Galapagos Islands nest.

Sea lions, mockingbirds endemic to San Cristobal Island, several species of ground finches, fire flyeaters, as well as local lava iguanas and their marine tribesmen.

Santiago Island (James Island or San Salvador)

Santiago Island is located at the intersection of the craters of two volcanoes and, according to generally accepted opinion, is considered the best place to observe the endemics of the archipelago - the Galapagos fur seals (which, apart from the island, are found only in a couple of other places in the archipelago). James Bay on the west coast of the island is considered a guaranteed place to meet these animals, where in Puerto Egas a whole colony of fur seals has chosen a place on the coast right beyond the littoral.

The long coastline of Puerto Egas, covered with frozen lava flows, is generously decorated with dilapidated, weathered rocks. Here, marine iguanas bask in the sun everywhere, and their terrestrial tribesmen in shallow water eat seaweed growing on the surface of the water. The coastal intertidal zones on the island are extremely rich in a variety of amazing living creatures, including spotted rock crabs, hermit crabs, sea sponges, four-eyed blennies, which are endemic to the island, and many shore birds (many completely unusual species of migratory birds have also been repeatedly recorded here).

Walking around the island, you can see woodpecker tree finches, several species of ground finches, fire flyeaters, Galapagos buzzards and turtledoves, as well as many other equally stunning birds. If you are very lucky, you can even see the rarest mice here - endemic to the island of Santiago, which for a long time were considered to have disappeared forever from the face of the earth, until the species was rediscovered in 1997. The island is also great for observing other endemics - Galapagos snakes, reaching a length of one meter. Despite their frightening size, they are not poisonous at all.

The place is also great for snorkeling, including with sea lions and, if you're lucky, with the almost elusive fur seals.

Bartolome Island

First of all, Bartolome is famous for the fact that it houses one of the most famous sights of the Galapagos Islands - a dilapidated pointed rock of volcanic origin Pinnacle, shaped like an index finger.

The magnificent white, crystal clear sand beach at the foot of the cliff offers excellent opportunities for swimming with penguins, green sea turtles, sea lions and countless placers of brightly colored tropical fish.

In addition, many other equally amazing animals can be observed on the island, including blue-footed boobies, red-billed phaetons, lava herons, less poetically called Galapagos green herons, fire flycatchers, marine iguanas and incredibly bright spotted rock crabs. Having reached the far end of the beach and crossed to the other side, in the shallows near the coast you can also see a lot of whitetip reef sharks that have not yet had time to grow up, lively crowding in the clear turquoise water.

From the shore to the highest point of the island (which the locals also poetically call the “Rock of Broken Hearts”), located at a height of 114 meters, leads a huge staircase of many wooden steps, surrounded on the sides by hot lava sands. It is best to climb the high stairs early in the morning, before breakfast, when a refreshing coolness reigns over the island and a breathtaking panorama of the two azure bays located at the foot opens up from the top.

Isabela Island (Albemarle)

The largest island of the Galapagos archipelago, Isabela is notable for the fact that on its territory there are six largest volcanoes, five of which are active to this day. The highest point of the archipelago, reaching 1707 meters, is the Wolf volcano, located in the northeastern corner of the island, right on the equator line.

First of all, the island is considered an ideal place to observe the giant Galapagos tortoises. In total, about 10,000 of these ancient giants live here, significantly more than on other islands of the archipelago. Moreover, in the area of ​​​​each of the five volcanoes - Sierra Negra (150 m), Sierra Azul (210 m), Darwin (305 m), Wolf (610 m) and Alcedo (1520 m) - various local subspecies of elephant turtles live. The best place to watch turtles is the foggy highlands around Alcedo Volcano. And although the path there is not close, it is still recommended to climb up in order to properly consider these amazing creatures. Most often, turtles can be found there floundering in small muddy puddles in the volcano's caldera.

Isabela is also one of two islands in the archipelago (besides Fernandina) where Galapagos penguins and flightless cormorants hatch their chicks. On the west coast of the island is Elizabeth Bay, which is also the owner of a major record, as the world's largest colony of Galapagos penguins lives on its shores.

To the north is Urbina Bay, where marine iguanas are found and one of the largest and brightest representatives of their land tribesmen in the entire archipelago - conolophas. This place is also ideal for spotting Galapagos penguins and flightless cormorants. In addition, you should definitely visit the shores of Tagus Bay, located even further north, opposite Fernandina Island. On foot from here you can climb to Lake Darwin, from the shores of which a magnificent panorama of the green sea lagoon opens, as well as Darwin and Wolf volcanoes. In addition, this place is also sure to please bird watchers, as ground finches, mockingbirds and Galapagos buzzards are quite common in the area.

Plankton-rich, clear turquoise waters off the west coast of Isabela Island attract marine mammals in abundance. Humpback whales and bottlenose dolphins can be seen most often here, but from time to time there are many other, no less remarkable species.

At the end of your trip around the island, you can get an equally amazing experience of swimming with marine iguanas in the area of ​​​​Cape Vicente Roca, where they graze under water for days on end in endless fields of seaweed.

Fernandina Island (Narborough)

Due to its remoteness from the rest of the islands, Fernandina, located on western outskirts archipelago, is very rarely included in general tourist routes, although completely undeserved. Despite its location on the far side of the archipelago, this island, rising up to 1400 meters above sea level, with a stunning caldera that stretches across a distance of almost 6.5 kilometers, is no less spectacular and colorful than any other. In addition, this island is a place of concentration of amazing animals that have become real symbols of the Galapagos.

Fernandina (along with Isabela) is one of the only islands in the archipelago where the long-awaited offspring of Galapagos penguins and flightless cormorants are born. The best place in this regard is considered to be a rocky coast near Cape Espinosa, located on the northeast coast of the island. In addition, along the path, which lies through unusually spectacular fields filled with solidified lava flows (covered with such deep cracks that it requires remarkable dexterity and maneuverability on the way), you can come to visit an entire colony of marine iguanas, the number of which is measured in literally hundreds of individuals. This colony is mainly notable for being considered the most numerous in the world.

Tower Island (Genovesa)

The Tower, one of the flattest islands of the archipelago, is quite remote from the center and is located almost on the northernmost outskirts of the archipelago. First of all, the island is famous as a real ornithological paradise. The best place, against which thousands of seabirds can be observed against a magnificent backdrop, is Darwin Bay, formed after the destruction and partial submersion of the crater of the largest volcano on the island.

Having landed on the shore, from the sandy beach you can go to the path, along the edges completely overgrown with salt bushes and mangroves, where blue-footed and red-footed boobies, magnificent frigatebirds and red-billed phaetons arrange their nests. Here you can meet unique representatives of the local feathered world, including Galapagos turtledoves, sharp-beaked, large cactus and large ground finches, as well as short-eared owls (which are representatives of a unique endemic subspecies). On the shores of the island, as, indeed, everywhere else, you can observe the ubiquitous sea lions, and at times even the elusive fur seals. While diving in the waters of the island, even hammerhead sharks are occasionally found.

The Prince Philip Steps Observation Deck, east of Darwin Bay, is great for sailing in pangas (small motor boats) and observing a myriad of seabirds. Blue-faced and blue-footed boobies make their nests on the cliffs along the edges of a winding path of stony steps leading to the platform, and frigatebirds and a huge number of red-footed boobies nest in the trees nearby. At the end of the path there is a field covered with frozen lava flows, over which Galapagos storm-petrels circle in huge flocks (and unlike other relatives around the world, they can be observed here not only after dusk, but also during the day). In addition, there are quite high chances to meet representatives of a rare local subspecies of short-eared owls.
Journey

The islands of Baltra or San Cristobal can be reached by plane from the airports of Quito or Guayaquil, located in the continental part of Ecuador. Some cruise tours depart from the shores of Baltra (the pier is a 5-minute drive from the local airport). In addition, cruise ships depart from the city of Puerto Ayora, the main tourist center of the archipelago, located on the island of Santa Cruz (which can be reached in 10 minutes by ferry or 45 minutes by bus). On an archipelago scale, this is a fairly large and modern settlement, where for the convenience of local residents and tourists there is a bank with ATMs, taxis, cafes, a cinema and a wide range of accommodation options in numerous local hotels.

The most convenient and economical way to explore the Galapagos archipelago is to take a cruise on a ship or boat with accommodation on board. When choosing such a route, you have to sail every night to the next stop, and make several landings during the day (this is just general scheme, the options here are unlimited). For two weeks of such a cruise, you can visit most of the most interesting places in the archipelago (including the most remote islands).

On most cruises, landings take place twice a day, which means that in 10 days of such a trip, you can make 20 landings, dive 10 to 20 times in local waters and swim several times on motor pangas, having visited ten different islands of the archipelago. In order to avoid crowding with other groups of tourists, as well as in order to catch the peak of animal activity, you should try to land on the shore as early as possible. During excursions to all stops tourist groups must be accompanied by a qualified guide-zoologist.

Alternatively, you can stay on one of the islands of the archipelago and make daily excursions. Various accommodation options for tourists are presented in hotels on the islands of Santa Cruz, San Cristobal, Floreana and Isabela. Several travel agencies on the islands offer day trips with visits to various places in the archipelago.

Tourist season

Whenever you go to the Galapagos Islands, the trip will certainly be extremely successful, regardless of the season, since here every season has its undoubted advantages and pleasant bonuses.

The hot and humid season with little rainfall (occasional tropical showers) lasts from December to May (the hottest and wettest months are traditionally March and April). At this time, the waters of the seas surrounding the archipelago, as a rule, are calmer and more transparent (excellent visibility under water is observed at this time at a depth of up to 20 - 25 meters), so this time is considered the best for diving and snorkeling (water temperature during the season is average is about 26 C).

A cooler, dry season with fairly strong winds (intermittently interspersed with light drizzle and fog) lasts from June to November. At this time, the water temperature in the sea drops to 19 C, and visibility under water can be considered satisfactory only at a depth of 10-15 meters). At this time, in the area of ​​the archipelago, the most high waves, which can make it difficult to land on individual islands.

Location: Ecuador
Square: 8010 km²
Coordinates: 0°30"52.8"S 91°02"05.2"W

Almost 1000 kilometers from the Republic of Ecuador, located in the northwest of the South American continent, are the unique Galapagos Islands.

Speaking dry scientific language, then the Galapagos are 13 volcanic islands that appeared as a result of almost incessant volcanic eruptions at the bottom of the sea. In addition, the archipelago includes 6 islands of non-volcanic origin and 107 rocks, and small islands of land that were washed up by ocean waves.

According to the assumptions of scientists, which cannot be considered reliable data, the very first island of the world-famous Galapagos, arose approximately “only” 7 million years ago. This suggests that the Galapagos archipelago, by certain standards, can be called relatively young. By the way, the two islands, bearing the beautiful female names of Fernandina and Isabela, are still at the formation stage, and it is quite difficult to predict what they will be in a few hundred years. The thing is that at a depth below them volcanoes constantly erupt, which means that these islands are constantly growing.

The total area of ​​the Galapagos today is almost 8,000 square kilometers, they are considered an integral part of the state of Ecuador. About 30,000 indigenous people live on the islands, although it is rather difficult to calculate the exact number of Galapagos residents: most of them are almost constantly at sea or lead the life of hermits on one of the rocky islands. It is impossible not to mention that the Galapagos Islands got their name in honor of ... a water turtle, more precisely, water turtles: galápagos is a Spanish word in the plural, literally translated into Russian as water turtles. This is where the data that will be of interest to scientists, geologists, historians and volcanologists almost end.

In Search of God

Further, the Galapagos cannot be described using only scientific terms and data, which, by and large, will not be of much interest to a simple layman or tourist who has decided to go to one of the most amazing places on our planet. To the place where the well-known scientist Darwin “discovered God”.

More precisely, exactly in the Galapagos Islands, Darwin "discovered" evolution on our planet. I would like to immediately make a reservation that only ardent admirers of the teachings of Charles Darwin adhere to this point of view. Almost all historians agree that the famous theory of evolution was formed much later. And Mr. Darwin only used the knowledge gained in the Galapagos in his work.

“Everything is now very easy for me to explain! What I saw in the Galapagos Islands, namely animals and plants, is not found anywhere else on the planet. However, many species bear some resemblance to those found elsewhere in the world. This means that evolution still takes place everywhere, practically, in an orderly and uniform way,” Charles Darwin wrote something like this in his notes. Quite a strange theory, isn't it? Yes, yes, it is precisely such conclusions that for the most part constitute the theory of evolution, to which at the moment the vast majority of scientists are skeptical.

History of the Galapagos Islands

To say that the history of the Galapagos Islands is remarkable for anything, of course, with the exception of its origin, would be too presumptuous. The Galapagos were discovered by a Spanish priest in the spring of 1535. There is nothing surprising in this, in those days when Spain was experiencing its heyday, the state often equipped various research expeditions led by church ministers, because it was they who were supposed to carry the word of God to unenlightened peoples.

Until 1832, the unique islands belonged to Spain, and then were annexed to Ecuador. Until 1936, the islands, which were located at a considerable distance from the mainland, served as a place where convicts served their sentences, who died, for the most part, from various diseases or simply became savages. In 1936, the authorities of Ecuador, realizing what wealth is located very close to them, declared the Galapagos National Park, where rich flora and fauna were under vigilant protection. 1978 was a landmark year for the Galapagos Islands; UNESCO drew attention to them, recognizing them as a world heritage. This is such a short and mostly unremarkable story that guides tell to numerous tourists.

Flora and fauna of the Galapagos Islands

Alas, it is almost impossible to describe the richness of flora and fauna that can be found in the Galapagos in one article. One has only to make a reservation that the vast majority of animals and plants that can be found on volcanic islands, in coastal zone and on sheer cliffs, are endemic. This says only one thing, they are not found anywhere else on our planet. Naturally, the symbol of the Galapagos Islands is the marine iguana, which is shown in almost all television programs dedicated to this unique archipelago. She is the only iguana who spends most of her time in the depths of the sea. At the same time, being cold-blooded, she is forced to bask in the sun. She does it with great pleasure on the coastal rocks: she is not afraid of any waves, because tenacious claws help her to hold on and take sunbaths even on very slippery stones.

Describing the endemics of the island, one should not forget about the Galapagos cormorants, buzzards, holothurians and sea lions: all these animals, like many others, live only on the Galapagos. Numerous attempts by scientists to spread them to other isolated islands, where the conditions were almost identical, ended in failure.

Naturally, it would be an unforgivable mistake to forget about the Galapagos tortoise, or, as scientists call it, the elephant tortoise. After all, it is thanks to her that the huge archipelago got its name. Alas, at the moment they are on the verge of extinction and scientists are doing their best to preserve this rare and, at the same time, interesting species of turtles, whose weight exceeds 400 kilograms and is approximately 2 meters long. In nature, these turtles, which gave their name to a number of volcanic islands, live for about 100 years. Scientists cannot calculate their exact age. Not so long ago, a Galapagos tortoise died in one of the zoos, whose age was accurately recorded - 170 years. This endemic used to be very widespread in the Galapagos, but the enterprising Spaniards, having learned the characteristics of these turtles, which could easily live in stuffiness for several months without water and food, decided to make them ... live canned food. Hundreds of them were thrown into the holds, and if necessary they were killed and boiled, from a species that is disappearing today, turtle soup.

Modern Galapagos

The most popular islands among tourists currently include: Hispaniola, Fernandina, Rabida, Pinson and Baltra. As mentioned above, the Galapagos is a National Reserve, therefore, in order to visit this place, which cannot be described otherwise than by high-flown epithets, you will have to stop in Ecuador. There are many hotels there: from economy class to five-star hotels. Unfortunately, it will not work to get to the Galapagos Islands on your own, unless the traveler decides to risk his life and overcome a distance of 1000 kilometers across the ocean, which is famous for its obstinate character and the presence of a large number of sharks in it who want to profit from warm-blooded meat. Therefore, in order to get to a place where everything is the most amazing, fantastic and “out of this world”, you will have to rent a yacht that can take the traveler to the Galapagos in 5-9 days. It all depends on the number of passengers and, of course, on the wallet of the tourist. The yachts provide a variety of entertainment during the cruise, diving in the Galapagos Islands, which are recognized as one of the seven wonders of the underwater world, fishing in the ocean and much more.

Prices for a cruise to the Galapagos range from $100 to $1,000 per day on the ship. But such amounts do not scare away tourists at all. On the contrary, buying a ticket and enjoying the beauty of the Galapagos, seeing the underwater world and its inhabitants with your own eyes is a big problem. Only in advance booked ticket will give confidence that the traveler will be able to see with his own eyes practically what the great scientist and explorer Charles Darwin saw in 1835. By the way, a long journey, despite the entertainment, is still tiring. Constant pitching, which leads to dehydration of a person suffering from seasickness, life on a ship on a strictly scheduled basis: breakfast - lunch - dinner, diving, fishing - a little boring, but the expectation of something great and hidden from the eyes of millions of people that will become available, once the yacht reaches the Galapagos, it is worth these small inconveniences.

Surprising as it sounds, there are no indigenous people on the Galapagos Islands. Mostly Ecuadorian mestizos live here - the descendants of Spanish colonists and South American Indians, who arrived here from the mainland in the second half of the last century.

And even earlier, English pirates felt good here in between robberies - the islands remained uninhabited for a long time after the discovery: they were located too far from the continent (the distance between the archipelago and Ecuador is as much as one hundred kilometers). An important role was also played by the fact that the Galapagos Islands have almost no sources fresh water.

And even now the population is small and does not exceed 30 thousand people who live only on five islands: Baltra, Isabella, San Cristobal and Santa Cruz, which is only 3.3% of the total territory of the archipelago, while the islands are inhabited only partly - in the center or on the coast, near the marinas.

The Galapagos Islands consist of thirteen large islands, six small ones and one hundred and seven rocks and alluvial territories (the total area of ​​the Galapagos is about 8 thousand km²). The archipelago is located in the Pacific Ocean, and is a province of the state of Ecuador (located 972 km to the west from it). If you carefully look at the Galapagos Islands on the map (they are located from 1° 40′ N to 1° 36′ S, and from 89° 16′ to 92° 01′ W), you can notice that in their shape they resemble a pentagon.

The Galapagos Islands were discovered at the beginning of the 16th century, when the ship of the Panamanian bishop Thomas de Berlanga accidentally deviated from the course. Recently, scientists have found that South American Indians have been here much earlier, because they found the remains of dishes and other traces of human activity.

Galapagos and volcanic activity

Like almost all archipelagos formed at great distances from the continent, the Galapagos Islands are of volcanic origin, since they were formed in the region of a transverse fault that cuts through the East Pacific Rise.

Volcanoes first appeared along this crack (from west to east), and after some time, about 5-10 million years ago, a volcanic plateau formed in one of the sections, and on it the Galapagos Islands, which have a complex configuration, winding , rocky shores, and under water - a huge number of coral reefs.

Some local volcanoes are still active. For example, the most active of them, the Sierra Negra, located on the island of Fernandina, has erupted more than twenty times since 1813.

Since people do not live here, its eruptions are dangerous only for flora and fauna. Another active volcano, Wolf, which is located on Isabella Island, erupts less frequently and is the highest point in the archipelago: its height is 1707 m.

Climate of Galapagos

The climate of the archipelago is primarily influenced by ocean currents and winds. Despite the fact that the Galapagos Islands are located near the equator, due to the cold Peruvian Current washing the archipelago, the climate here is much cooler than in other areas of these latitudes: the average annual temperature is about 24 ° C (the hottest months are from December to June). Here, as in other equatorial regions, there are two seasons: rainy (December to April) and dry (July to October).

The vital activity of the archipelago

Such a significant distance from civilization could not but have a positive effect on the wildlife of the archipelago - it is so unique and interesting that it is not found anywhere else in the world.

That is why in the 1980s body of water around the islands was declared a “marine conservation area” (it should be noted that in size it is only inferior to the Great Barrier Reef, located off the coast of Australia), and UNESCO declared the Biosphere Reserve a national park, which is located on an area of ​​​​almost 700 hectares.

And not in vain, because about sixty species of birds live on the Galapagos Islands, half of which are endemic, not only a huge number of a wide variety of fish species live in the ocean depths, but there are also many sea lions, seals, eels, rays, dolphins, huge flocks ( about 300 individuals) hammerhead sharks swim.

Despite its proximity to the equator, here you can see representatives of not only the tropical, but also the Antarctic wildlife - moss grows near the lianas, parrots fly over the heads of the Galapagos penguins, and dolphins swim next to the seals. Some animals have long been symbols of the Galapagos Islands.

penguins from the equator

Galapagos penguins are the only penguin species in the world that is quite comfortable around the equator. These birds live mainly on the islands of Isabella and Fernandina, and nest in caves and lava voids.

Since the Galapagos Islands have a very hot and dry climate for penguins, these amazing birds have had to adapt in order to survive. First of all it showed up:

• In their size, the Galapagos penguins are considered the smallest penguins in the world: an adult bird is 50 cm tall and weighs about 2.5 kg;
• In terms of numbers - no more than 2 thousand individuals live here (and their population decreases every year), and therefore these birds are considered the smallest species of the family and are even listed in the Red Book;
• On the way of life - during the day, when the air temperature reaches its maximum, the Galapagos penguins sit in the water (they avoid it only during the molt that occurs before the start of the breeding season), and come ashore at night when it gets cooler.

elephant turtles

In the territory unique reserve the Galapagos tortoise lives - the largest tortoise on Earth, which is rightfully considered one of the longest-lived vertebrate animals in the world: in the wild, Galapagos tortoises can live for more than a hundred years, and in captivity they live even longer.

For example, the oldest known turtle in the world, Henrietta, from the Australian Zoo, recently turned 175 years old (although the exact date of birth of this reptile is unknown, its approximate age has been determined using DNA tests). At the moment, the Galapagos Islands have twelve of the fifteen subspecies of these reptiles:

1. Smaller ones, whose weight ranges from 30 kg in females to 50 kg in males, have long and thin legs, a long neck and a saddle-shaped shell, which allows them to penetrate into the vegetation in case of danger and hide in it. They prefer to live on small islands, where lowlands and a drier climate prevail;
2. Larger ones, weighing from 200 to 400 kg (the difference between males and females is not as significant as in small species), have a short neck, a dome-shaped shell, the length of which is from 120 to 180 cm. They prefer to live on large islands, in high-mountain regions with a humid climate.

In previous centuries, the population of these animals has decreased significantly. The main reason is, of course, people, since the Galapagos tortoise is able to live for several months without food and water, sailors took them with them as “live canned food”. If in the 16th century their population numbered 250 thousand individuals, then in 1970 - only 3 thousand.

IN Lately thanks to captive-bred babies, the number of this species of turtles has slightly increased and, according to rough estimates, is about 19 thousand copies.

Basic moments

The total area of ​​the islands is 8010 km², the population of the Colon archipelago (this is the second name of the Galapagos) is a little more than 25 thousand people. The fame of the region was brought, first of all, by the richness of the local biosphere landscape. Nature itself took care to turn the territory of the Galapagos Islands, located far from civilization, into a real oasis comparable to paradise on Earth. Despite the proximity of the equator, there is no sweltering heat here, and all thanks to the surrounding cold current. Average annual temperature in the Galapagos it varies between 23-24 degrees, although it can be hotter. One can only dream of such conditions in which it is easy and comfortable to relax!

And the possibilities for recreation in the Galapagos Islands are very diverse. In the morning and in the afternoon, tourists prefer to sunbathe under the gentle rays of the local sun. With the onset of the evening, there is an influx of them in cafes, restaurants and other places of entertainment. The rest of the time, guests of the Galapagos get acquainted with natural attractions, of which there are a lot: these are bays, beautiful bays, majestic cliffs, capes, formidable volcanoes and, of course, rich vegetation and animal world. The latter is especially impressive: for a few days or even a couple of weeks, depending on the length of the vacation, each tourist unwittingly becomes a botanist, a zoologist, and an ornithologist. Travelers study the local nature and animals with interest, observe their growth and development in their natural environment.

An excursion into the history of the archipelago

If not for the tectonic activity on the Pacific floor, which took place about 8 million years ago, then no islands, most likely, would not have arisen here. Nevertheless, they were formed, and after some time they were inhabited by ancient people. However, direct evidence of this has not been preserved, scientists judge this only by indirect data.

The first European to set foot on their blessed land was a priest of Spanish origin, Thomas de Berlanga. This happened in March 1535, and quite by accident. He went by sea from Panama to Peru, but accidentally deviated from the course and "wandered" to this seemingly godforsaken archipelago. The involuntary discoverer and his companions saw giant tortoises here, whose name is on Spanish in the plural it sounded like "galapagos" (in translation - "elephant turtles"). So the discovered islands got a name, and they were listed on the then map of the world.

The Spaniards successfully colonized the Galapagos Islands, but for a long time they did not consider them suitable for full-fledged living. For almost the entire period of foreign domination, pirates took refuge here, making attacks on ships sailing nearby. On February 12, 1832, the archipelago changed sovereign: it was annexed by Ecuador. Three years later, an expedition landed here, which included the future author of the theory of evolution, Charles Darwin. Together with Robert Fitzroy and other young naturalists, he explored the islands in depth.

In 1936, the government declared the Galapagos a national park and took them under its protection. During the Second World War, Baltra Island hosted an American air force base, patrolling the ocean to detect enemy submarines and protecting the Panama Canal. After 1945, the United States transferred the property to the Ecuadorian government, which set up its own military base there.

In 1953, the famous archaeologist and writer Thor Heyerdahl arrived in the Galapagos Islands, searching for the legacy of the Incas, and a decade later, traces of the activities of this Indian people were nevertheless discovered. On February 18, 1973, the leadership of the republic announced the creation of a province of the same name in the Galapagos Islands with its capital in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, while Puerto Ayora is the most populous city in the region. In 1978, UNESCO added the Colon Archipelago to the World Heritage List, and in 1985 it was declared a World Biosphere Reserve. In 1986, the water area surrounding the islands was given the status of a marine protected area. Its area is 70 thousand square meters. km, and in this indicator it is second only to the Australian Great Barrier Reef.

The Ecuadorian state pays great attention to the preservation of the natural attractions of the Galapagos Islands. Area created national park covers 97.5% of the territory. Founded in 1959 in Brussels (Belgium), the International Darwin Foundation, for its part, also guarantees the preservation of the unique Galapagos system and strongly supports the scientific research conducted here. For this purpose, in 1964, a special research station was established on one of the islands - Santa Cruz. The first thing the researchers began to fight for "purity" local flora and fauna. They did a great job of removing the so-called "non-native" (imported) animals and plants from here, while at the same time strengthening the protection of indigenous species.

Fauna of the Galapagos Islands

Getting acquainted with the fauna of the Galapagos Islands, one involuntarily wonders how so many species of animals, and the most diverse ones, could gather in one place. Of course, it is impossible to present everyone in one article, so we will talk about the most famous, which have become real favorites of tourists.

If you make a kind of rating of the most popular of them, the first lines in it will be occupied by the already mentioned giant elephant tortoise, which gave the archipelago its name, the Galapagos penguin, the blue-footed booby, the magnificent frigate, the Galapagos flightless cormorant, earthen or Darwin finches, fur seal, Galapagos sea lion . The named animals belonging to endemic species are found on the islands at almost every turn. Without exaggeration, they are unique, because nowhere else on Earth can you see them.

The Galapagos penguins, in which the genes of their Antarctic counterparts clearly speak, behave interestingly, as they are constantly looking for cooler places. These are the islands in the western part of the Galapagos, where the water temperature is somewhat lower due to the predominance of cold ocean currents. However, penguins have adapted well and can be found here in different places, but for some reason they breed only on the islands of Fernandina and Isabella and on no others. The named territories, moreover, are the only ones where flightless cormorants nest. They are called so for a reason: due to the weak development of the wings, these birds are not able to fly, but, without losing their balance, they jump well from rock to rock.

Galapagos albatrosses have also chosen a nesting place for themselves, namely the island of Hispaniola: this rarest species can only be observed here and nowhere else in the world. If your vacation falls between April and December, and you visit this part of the archipelago, you can watch exotic birds live. Ground finches, on the contrary, are very common, but they are rightfully called the most legendary. Charles Darwin, when working in the Galapagos Islands, carefully examined representatives of all types of these small birds, suggesting that they have a common ancestor. To such a discovery, very important at that time, the father of evolutionary theory was prompted by the different shape of their beak. The scientist came to the conclusion that such differences were formed as a result of the struggle for survival.

The elephant turtles living here are so ancient that they are often called the same age as the universe. The sizes of these reptiles are huge, reaching a length of one and a half meters. A good-natured toothless grin and a funny head with wrinkled skin hiding in a shell every now and then give the impression of a very old age - as if these animals had moved here from the prehistoric era. Evidence has been preserved that a very long time ago another 15 subspecies were found on the Galapagos Islands, which differed in many respects from each other: both in size, and in the shape of the shell, and in the distribution area. Accident or not, four of them died out almost simultaneously with the arrival of the first people on the archipelago. If earlier the total number of giant tortoises was 250 thousand individuals, today there are about 15 thousand of them left. These animals are long-lived, living on average up to a hundred years. It can be assumed that many of them "met" Darwin himself. Want to see them up close? Then you need to Isabella Island (Albemarle), where they basically settled. Or, as an option, you can visit the surroundings of the Alcedo volcano and the highlands of Santa Cruz Island.

Another symbol of the Colon archipelago is marine iguanas. To see them, you do not need to go to any specific islands. These lizards are found almost everywhere in the local water area. It is estimated that there are about 300 thousand individuals. They spend the lion's share of the time in the water, then go ashore and bask in the sun with pleasure. Their favorite pastime is... blowing their nose. Not like people, of course, but they have no other way than through the nostrils to remove excess sea salt from the body, so do not be surprised at the white foam on their faces.

Diving enthusiasts in the Galapagos Islands are guaranteed their unforgettable encounters and experiences. Scuba diving or even without it - lovely way get acquainted with fur seals, also found in the local waters almost everywhere. There are places in the Galapagos where you can't avoid getting to know them. In this regard, the seal grotto on the island of Santiago is especially noteworthy, where you can get quite close to these amazing creatures.

In addition to iguanas, green turtles and unique colorful fish can also compete with you in scuba diving (more than 300 species live in the local waters of the latter). Encounters with reef, darktip reef and gray Galapagos sharks, and even, if you are very lucky, the mysterious whale sharks, are especially amazing.

It is no less interesting to observe the daily behavior of the inhabitants of the local fauna. Want to see how green sea turtles lay their eggs? Come in January. Do you want to swim with penguins? Welcome to Bartolome Island, but not earlier than May and not later than September. Dreaming of seeing adorable newborn sea lion cubs? Don't miss August. Well, in December you can look at the cubs of the giant Galapagos tortoises: they hatch from eggs just during this period.

Video: The underwater world of the Galapagos Islands

Environmental Safety

The Government of Ecuador and international environmental organizations traditionally urge tourists to take care of the unique biological resources of the Galapagos Islands. Under special protection are such animals as the elephant tortoise, green turtle, holothurians, sea lion, Galapagos conolophos, as well as birds: Galapagos cormorant, tree finch, Galapagos buzzard. However, environmental threats do exist, and they are mostly associated with historical circumstances.

Thus, animals and plants are unsafe, accidentally or deliberately brought to the archipelago in different time. This is especially true for cattle. Reproducing rapidly, it oppresses the local fauna, literally devastating its habitat. There are very few “own” predators on the Galapagos Islands, so local animals are often defenseless against “aliens” and often become their victims. For example, cats love to hunt finches. Of the plants, avocados, guava, blackberries, cinchona, fragrant dope, pyramidal ocher, castor beans, elephant grass and various types of citrus fruits pose a threat. Having spread widely, these plants literally “pushed out” representatives of the local flora, in particular, on the islands of Isabella, San Cristobal, Floreana and Santa Cruz.

“Emigrants” among local animals appeared, for example, with the light hand of pirates: Thor Heyerdahl found evidence of this. In one of the old documents published by him, it is said that the viceroy of Peru, having learned that sea robbers eat goats here, ordered to set the last evil dogs on them. One of the fathers of Ecuador's independence and the founder of his fleet, José de Villamil, personally gave the order to raise goats, donkeys and other domestic animals in the Galapagos, so that the future colonizers of the islands would have something to eat. The appearance of poultry here and its rapid reproduction has created a new headache for scientists, who rightly believe that their diseases can be transmitted to wild relatives with the risk of entire epidemics.

The Galapagos archipelago is also inhabited by pigs and horses, cats and dogs, mice and rats, donkeys, cockroaches, ants. Domestic predators often devastate the nests of wild birds and attack them themselves, catch iguanas and turtles. The nests of the latter are often destroyed by pigs, which, moreover, constantly dig the ground in search of roots and insects, causing tremendous damage to the unique vegetation. It is the pigs that are believed to have ousted the iguanas from the island of Santiago, and in fact, relatively recently, in the time of Darwin, they still lived there. Black rats have also become a real scourge of the Galapagos Islands. They attack small turtles as soon as they leave their nests, and as a result, for example, on the island of Pinzon, these reptiles have ceased to breed. Rodents also exterminated their local counterparts - endemic rats.

The priceless riches of the waters of the Colon archipelago are threatened by illegal fishing. Of particular concern to Ecuadorian and international organizations causes fishing for native sharks and unauthorized harvesting of sea cucumbers. A significant increase in the local population, coupled with the development of the tourism industry, has also become a cause for concern. The eyes of the world community on the problems of the Galapagos Islands were also attracted by the accident of the Jessica tanker, which caused a wide resonance, as a result of which a significant amount of oil spilled into the territorial waters.

Islands and attractions

The most populated of the thirteen main islands of the archipelago is Santa Cruz. He is the second largest after Isabella. Here is the main port of the Galapagos - the city of Puerto Ayora. Leads to him the main road, on both sides of which there are two craters, called "Gemini" (Los Gemelos). According to one version, they appeared as a result of several volcanic eruptions, according to another, these huge voids were formed by solidified lava. And next to the village is the beautiful beach of Tortuga Bay. After soaking up the sun here, you can go to get acquainted with the lava caves and unique center breeding elephant tortoises.

Santa Cruz Island is a real find for lovers of water sports. Diving, snorkelling, yachting - extreme tourists will definitely find something to their liking here. By renting a yacht, you can go to other islands of the Galapagos archipelago. Others even rent a small plane, flying to remote places and staying for a day or two, or even a week. Let's say, to the northwest, where Dragon Hill is located, which got its name from the iguanas, which were then transported to another place to save them from the dominance of dogs. Fifteen years ago, several individuals were returned here, and over the past years, the population of these animals has fully recovered, and this place itself has been made accessible to tourists.

The main attraction of Santa Cruz is considered to be the Charles Darwin Research Center, awarded in 2002 with the International Space Prize. It has an international status, and was founded with the aim of maintaining the biosphere of the archipelago, which is called the "laboratory of evolution", and its protection. Not only scientists work here, but also university professors, students and volunteers from all over the world. The center, which has branches on the islands of San Cristobal and Isabella, has developed a special program for feeding elephant tortoises and maintaining their natural habitat. These giants are kept directly on the territory of the scientific station, where their reproduction is carefully controlled. As soon as they become adults, they are released into the wild.

On the island of Santiago, in its northwestern part, there is the famous black beach of Puerto Egas, which received this color of sand due to volcanic activity, namely the subsidence of tufa. In this place, sea lions, chameleons, lizards and other animals feel at ease. Connoisseurs of antiquity will surely like the ruins of the shops of salt mining companies that existed in the past. Here you can go snorkeling or walk along the rock formations and tunnels surrounding the beach.

The Galapagos Islands also have their own Wailing Wall. It is located on Isabella Island. Briefly, the story is as follows: in 1946-1959 there was a penal colony here. Prisoners were forced to cut cheap blocks of volcanic rock, carry them a considerable distance and build a wall out of them. The work was truly hard labor, and even under the scorching sun. It is not surprising that not all those who served time here endured such torment and died. The entire scale of the work can be imagined looking at this wall: it stretches for more than 100 meters in length, and 8 meters in height. After some time, the prison was closed and razed to the ground, and they decided to leave the gigantic and sad building as evidence of the inhuman treatment of prisoners.

On Isabella, you can also observe the highest volcano of the Galapagos Islands - Wolf, whose height is 1707 meters above sea level. The crater of another volcano, Sierra Negra, is the second largest in the world in diameter (10 km). Another local volcano, Chico, showed its formidable temper in 2005. After its eruption, lava rivers and tunnels remained. Walking through them, it is difficult to get rid of the impression that you are somewhere on the moon: it is so unlike the landscape we are used to. From the top of Chico, there are wonderful views of the northern tip of Albemarle.

In the western part of the island, not far from the Alcedo volcano, there is Urbina Bay, which was formed in 1954 by strong tides. The beach is interesting for its black sand, as well as literally colorful vegetation. coastline covered with shellfish, dried corals. Diving enthusiasts are waiting for "competition" with sea lions and turtles. Fans of passive recreation will not be bored either: they will be able to view the inhabitants of the deep sea directly from the shore. It is no less exciting to watch the red Galapagos flamingos, who have chosen the salt lake Balthazar. The main thing is not to scare them, because they do not like strangers and can simply leave.

The best place on the island of Hispaniola is considered to be Cape Suarez. Here you can watch the colored iguanas, imposingly, not at all afraid of people basking in the sun. And also for birds, for example, wavy albatrosses, the colony of which is considered the largest in the world. In the northeastern part is Gardner Bay, whose delightful white beaches leave no one indifferent. Sea turtles, sea lions crawl out onto the long coast and here they create entire colonies, curious mockingbirds run back and forth. In this place you can go scuba diving or snorkeling, and even race with sea lions.

Most active volcano The Galapagos is located on the island of Fernandina - La Combre, whose height is 1476 meters. It wakes up very often, once every few years, and such a frequency of eruptions leads to the collapse of the crater. One of the most powerful took place in the summer of 2005, when steam and ash "shot" over 7 kilometers high. The eruption of 2009 brought the greatest damage: natural landscape in this part of the Galapagos Islands was on the verge of extinction, but, fortunately, the ecosystem quickly recovered.

The main attractions of the small island of Rabida, located south of the island of San Salvador, are beaches with dark red sand, which tourists love very much. Such an extraordinary color of the beaches is given by volcanic soil in combination with iron oxide contained in it. It is on Rabid that unique bakuta trees grow. There are red flamingos and pelicans on the island, and there is a large colony of sea lions on the west coast. Rabida Island is also considered the geological center of the entire Galapagos archipelago.

If you are fond of diving, then you should definitely visit the rocks "Devil's Crown", which are located near the island of Floreana. More precisely, these are not even rocks, but a stone semicircle formed by a submerged volcano, protruding to the surface of the water. Here, as if by order, the most unusual Marine life, and everyone can feel like a real Captain Nemo. Divers also dive outside the crater, swimming alongside sharks, rays and other marine predators. However, first of all, you need to be afraid not of them, but of strong undercurrents, which are not uncommon here.

National cuisine

The most popular treat in the Galapagos Islands is ceviche. First of all, seafood lovers will like it. It is prepared like this: fish and other seafood are marinated in lime juice, after which they are seasoned with hot chili peppers. Vegetables are served as a side dish to the popular fish dish.

Fans of first courses will surely like rich meat soups. What gives them piquancy is that the broths are cooked from a variety of parts of the carcasses. For one of these soups, it is called caldo de pata, they use ... veal hooves, which are pre-fried.

Do you have anything against guinea pigs? No, they will not keep you company during the meal, but ... they will act as the main ingredient for one of their most delicious dishes. It is prepared very simply: the guinea pig is also fried. This food is so delicious that only convinced vegetarians can refuse it. For them, the very nature of the Galapagos Islands has prepared a huge selection of exotic vegetables and fruits, the taste of which cannot be expressed in words - they must definitely be tasted. Tourists especially like the striped cucumber called pepinos. It has a very pronounced and spicy taste.

An excellent addition to the local culinary delights is a glass of excellent beer, which has been produced here for a long time and of very high quality. The foamy drink in the Galapagos has a lot of delicious snacks that you can try in local bars and restaurants. In general, the cuisine of the Galapagos Islands is based on classic Latin American recipes. Usually, when cooking, hot spices are mixed in various proportions, not to mention the use of components that, at first glance, seem incompatible, but the dishes of them are obtained - you will lick your fingers!

Note to tourists

To visit Ecuador and, accordingly, the Galapagos Islands, a visa for citizens of Russia, Ukraine, Belarus and Kazakhstan will not be required if the period of stay does not exceed 90 days.

The best conditions for tourists are created in the city of Puerto Ayora. The island of Santa Cruz as a whole can boast of many hotels. Single rooms with modest furnishings will cost $ 15, for suites you will have to pay from $ 100 to $ 130 per night. Connoisseurs of luxury holidays allow themselves to rent a whole private mansion, which has a swimming pool and even a marina. Such a pleasure per day will cost from $ 350 and more.

The only tourist street in Puerto Ayora stretches along the coast and bears the name of ... guess who. Well, of course, Charles Darwin. It is here that hotels, entertainment venues and souvenir shops are concentrated. Travelers are pleasantly surprised by the presence of many shops selling gold and other jewelry, and art salons. The product here is excellent, however, at exorbitant prices. Of the souvenirs, the most popular ones are T-shirts with images of representatives of the local fauna and cute caps with the inscription “Galapagos”.

When visiting the Galapagos Islands - by the way, it is paid ($ 100 in cash is paid immediately upon arrival) - you should not forget that the territory is a protected national park, and the only one in the whole country. And this means that every tourist should adhere to certain rules of conduct. Independent movement around the islands is undesirable, tourists must be accompanied by a guide. There are paved trails for moving around the area. Specially equipped platforms are used as observation posts. Talking loudly, making noise or kindling fires is strictly prohibited.

The voltage in the local power supply is only 110 volts, so take care of adapters and adapters for household electrical appliances in advance. In some hotels they can be provided upon request, but it is impossible to guess which ones in advance, so it is better to take them with you in advance. Also stock up on your own medicines, if, according to the available indications, they need to be taken regularly: most likely, it will not work to replenish your personal first-aid kit during your stay here.

Drinking tap water or cooking with it is not recommended. For these purposes, bottled water is used, which can be bought at any grocery store. Fruits and vegetables should be thoroughly washed before eating, so as not to get any intestinal infection.

Going on vacation to the Galapagos Islands, it would be useful to focus on the seasons local climate. The hottest months are from December to May. It is also considered quite humid, given the occasional tropical downpours. The hottest and wettest months are March and April. The driest and coolest season with its inherent strong winds is set from June to November.

How to get there

The Galapagos is an island territory, therefore, except by plane, it is cheaper to get here by no other means. Direct flights to the archipelago from mainland Ecuador are carried out only from the city of Guayaquil. Three airlines send their aircraft to the islands: AeroGal, LAN and Tame.

You will spend 1 hour 50 minutes on the plane. The cost of tickets depends on when they were purchased and whether the tourist got on a promotional special offer. On average, a round-trip flight will cost 350-450 dollars.

There are two airports operating on the Galapagos Islands: on the island of San Cristobal - San Kristobal, on Baltra - Seymour Airport.

Direct flights from Russian Federation to the Republic of Ecuador are not carried out. You will have to get either through one of the European capitals (for example, through Madrid), or through the United States if you have an American visa in your passport.

What connects the great Charles Darwin with a group of lost islands in the Pacific Ocean? Why are the Galapagos Islands so famous, what is special about them? The thing is unique flora and fauna, which are endemics - a local, isolated ecosystem, where different types evolved without mixing with others. Darwin's stay on these islands was the impetus for his development of the evolutionary theory of the origin of species - natural selection, which became a great discovery. Let's see where the Galapagos Islands are located on the world map.

Location and climate of the Galapagos

The Galapagos Islands on the map are located in the Pacific Ocean, in the northwest of South America, and territorially belong to the Republic of Ecuador. They are separated from the mainland by 972 km. The volcanic archipelago consists of 19 islands, it is the main attraction of Ecuador and the largest and most important world reserve. The first of them were formed about 10 million years ago as a result of the movement of tectonic plates. Proximity to the equator and the local cold Humbald Current provided the archipelago with a comfortable two-season period with a stable air temperature of +23°C: from December to May - a warm and humid season, from June to November - a cool and dry one.

Summer in the Galapagos marks the air and water temperature of + 20 ° C, while quite strong winds blow. The cold current also cools the air temperature, but saturates coastal waters with nutrient organisms that attract penguins, birds and schools of fish. The coast becomes densely populated, which attracts tourists, and albatrosses flock to the island of Hispaniola.

Warm tropical downpours are frequent during the winter months. Moisture, evaporating from the ground, creates a curtain of fog, but at an air and water temperature of + 25 ° C, humidity does not cause discomfort. Autumn is the time for divers, as the underwater world becomes more diverse and beautiful. In winter, beautiful blue-footed boobies come here to nest. Spring in the Galapagos is wonderful - numerous endemics bloom (plants that can only be found here), and the sacrament of laying eggs by Galapagos tortoises takes place on the beaches.

Discovery and history of the Galapagos

The archipelago consists of 13 main inhabited islands, 6 small and a scattering of small rocks and ledges above the surface of the water. The Galapagos Islands were discovered in the spring of 1535 by the Spaniard Thomas de Berlanga, who became the first European to set foot on volcanic earth one of the islands. His ship accidentally veered off course, following from Panama to Peru, and stumbled upon an unfamiliar archipelago. Before the astonished eyes of the travelers stood in all its glory the primitive world inhabited by giant tortoises. By the way, this is where the name came from - galapagos (Spanish), that is, “elephant turtle”.

Historical milestones

Spanish conquistadors settled on the islands, but used them as a haven for pirates who attacked passing ships, until in 1832 "power changed." The archipelago passed into the possession of Ecuador. After 3 years, the expedition of Charles Darwin landed on it with an associate, naturalist Robert Fitzroy. Thus began the era of exploration of a unique ecosystem.

The archipelago was declared a national reserve, but during the Second World War, an American air base was located on Baltra Island, which defended the Panama Canal and monitored enemy submarines in the region. Of the famous explorers, Thor Heyerdahl also visited the Galapagos, who was looking for traces of the Inca civilization there and found the same.

History of the archipelago in dates:

• In 1959, the International Fund for them was created in Brussels. Darwin, who in every possible way contributes to the study and preservation of a unique ecosystem;
• in 1964 - a research station was built on the island of Santa Cruz, which has carried out and is currently doing a great job of removing "non-native" flora and fauna in order to preserve the purity of endemic species;
• in 1973 - the government of Ecuador founded a province on the islands;
• in 1978 - UNESCO added the archipelago to the World Heritage List;
• in 1985 it became a biosphere reserve;
• in 1986 - coastal waters acquired the status of a protected area. The area of ​​\u200b\u200bocean coastal waters is 70 thousand km², it is the second largest after.

Description of the islands and attractions

The first navigation chart of the archipelago was drawn up in 1684 by the pirate Ambrose Cowley. He gave the names of the islands by the names of his acquaintances filibusters and the English nobles who patronized them. You can visit 13 islands out of 19, but only three of them have infrastructure and are built up with hotels and bungalows - Santa Cruz, Isabela and San Cristobal. The majority (90%!), On the contrary, have retained their original integrity and have been given over to animals, reptiles and birds.

The archipelago is located almost on the equator, and the area is very restless: the junction of three tectonic plates regularly generates eruptions of numerous volcanoes. But the rarest representatives of the animal and plant world have found a home here. White, black and red virgin beaches are beautiful, birds of paradise sing in the relic forests, dolphins, fur seals, turtles and even penguins frolic in the clear turquoise water of the lagoons. It's always summer in the Galapagos.

Isabela is the largest island

An area of ​​4640 m², named after Queen Isabella, who sponsored the expeditions of Christopher Columbus. The island is shaped like a seahorse and is riddled with six volcanoes that make up its surface. The highest is Wolf (1707 m), the last eruption was recorded in 1982. In its crater there is a rather large lake with islands. Isabela's other volcano, Sierra Negra, is also remarkable; its crater is the second largest in the world (10 km). The third in the ranking, Chico, erupted powerfully in 2005, and today its surroundings resemble a lunar landscape - tunnels, rivers and lava growths. The island has a salt lake Balthazar, it was chosen by flocks of red flamingos, and there is a settlement - Puerto Villamil.

Isabela Island is interesting for its history, and its main attraction is the Wailing Wall. In the post-war years, a correctional colony functioned on it. For educational purposes, prisoners were obliged to cut blocks from volcanic rock and carry them far from the place of extraction to where they erected a high wall. Hard labor under the scorching sun literally mowed down the ranks of the poor fellows, few survived in such conditions. In memory of them, a rather ridiculous wall 100 meters long and 8 meters high remained. In subsequent years, the prison building was razed to the ground, and the wall remained as a reminder of the atrocities of the overseers.

At the western tip of Isabela there is a bay and a beach, interesting with black sand. Coastal waters are literally teeming with inhabitants; turtles and sea lions are happy to keep divers company. Galapagos penguins, cormorants, iguanas, pelicans, gannets also live on the island. The slopes of volcanoes are inhabited by finches that can use tools - cactus needles, buzzards, land tortoises, flamingos and the Galapagos pigeon. But the most remarkable thing here is a scattering of small charming lagoons, where birds of paradise sing, and coastal waters are furrowed by hammerhead fish, ray fish, as well as sharks and killer whales.

Santa Cruz is the most populated

Another name is Indefatigable. This is the largest island in the form of an almost even circle (square 985 km²), the center of the Galapagos civilization with the port city of Puerto Ayora, in which 12 thousand people live. There are many entertainments prepared for tourists on Santa Cruz:

• the beautiful beach of Torguga Bay;
• diving and acquaintance with marine life;
• boat trips between the islands and on a glass bottom boat;
• flying on an airplane or paragliding;
• watching giant tortoises.

On Santa Cruz is, as mentioned above, the research center. Charles Darwin, awarded the International Space Prize in 2002. The best naturalists, scientists, biologists, as well as students and volunteers work here. And in the bay called "Black Turtle", in the thickets of the mangrove forest, the ancient giants are engaged in procreation. Finches live among the thorns of the prickly pear cactus - the main attraction of the local flora.

Fernandina - the dormant volcano

This westernmost island is essentially a periodically waking up volcano called La Cumbre (642 km²). The last two eruptions were in 2005 and 2009, the second turned out to be unusually powerful: red-hot lava and ash shot into the sky to a 7-kilometer height. The name of the island came from King Ferdinand II of Aragon, who was also the patron of Columbus. In the center of the island there is a caldera (hollow) with a diameter of 6.5 km, formed as a result of the collapse of the crater. At its bottom, a lake periodically appears, and then disappears without a trace. Tourists are not allowed in the vicinity of the caldera because of the danger of collapses.

Actually, there is almost nothing to see on it, except for the mangroves on the coast, protruding into the ocean, and the largest population of marine iguanas in the town of Punta Espinosa. The rest of the landscape is a gray, hardened lava mass. Urbina Bay has a coral reef with rich underwater life, while Elizabeth Bay is home to penguins. They share it with pelicans who hide their fish in caves.

Baltra - iguana island

During the Second World War, there was an air force base of the US Army, and now there is international Airport linking the archipelago to the mainland. Flights are operated daily by TAME. The island is home to iguanas. For the sake of the experiment, in the 1930s, biologists moved 70 individuals to the nearby island of Simor Norte, but the iguanas that remained on Baltra died unexpectedly during the war. In the postwar years at the Center. Darwin restored the population and new generations repopulated Baltra.

Bartolome - Pirate's Hideout

A tiny but charming island (only 1.2 km²) is shaped like a horseshoe. From the highest point to the west stretched a section of lava that holds a source of fresh water, which is almost non-existent in the entire archipelago. Filibusters lived in the Pirates' Cave and robbed passing ships. There is a stunning Pinnacle Rock, from the top of which offers wonderful views of the coffee-colored beach. Penguins, sea lions and turtles live at its base. Killer whales swim through an underwater tunnel connecting the sea and two bays.

Interesting sights of other islands can be seen in the table:

Threat to Galapagos Species

However, no matter how isolated the archipelago is for alien representatives of flora and fauna, the Galapagos have one enemy - man. It was he who violated the purity of endemics and endangered many of the rarest species, and some of them completely disappeared from the face of the earth. Newly arriving "conquerors" in previous centuries released domestic animals to the islands, which rampaged on protected lands. Cats ruined egg layings, pigs dug the soil, damaging the root system of plants, and goats finished them off from above, eating leaves. Defenseless animals and plants turned out to be defenseless against barbarism. But in the last century, scientists sounded the alarm and carried out a massive cleansing of nature from strangers.

Animal world Galapagos

The seclusion of the Galapagos Islands has influenced the diversity and purity of species that have been preserved here, including the work of scientists. Many inhabitants are found only in the archipelago: about 60 species of birds, many fish and marine life.

"The land of fearless animals" - so it is appropriate to call the Galapagos. On any island, everywhere you can stumble upon a colored iguana sleeping on a stone, or flirting frigatebirds, or swimming penguins, as well as sluggish turtles. Animals are friendly and trusting, because they have no enemies, because there are no predators. The world of the archipelago is amazing, where those who, it would seem, do not belong here at all - penguins and seals live.

Humbaldt penguins

In order for the Galapagos penguins to survive in an unusual climate - too warm and dry, they evolved: local ones are very small in size, only 50 cm tall. The plumage is less dense than that of the Arctic counterparts, and there is less subcutaneous fat. To reduce body temperature, the Galapagos penguin can breathe frequently with its mouth open, just like a dog.

They lead a nocturnal lifestyle, and during the day, in the very heat, sit out in the water. Mostly penguins have chosen western islands, there, due to cold currents, the temperature in the sea is lower, and they breed on Isabela and Fernandina.

Swimming among the penguins in the Galapagos:

Land elephant turtles

Galapagos tortoises are so ancient that they are jokingly called the same age as the universe. These are the largest turtles on the planet, the weight of other individuals reaches six centners, and the length is up to two meters. Giants are long-lived, most trample the earth for more than a century, but there have been cases when caught turtles lived for at least 170 years.

These vertebrate giants inhabit 7 islands of the archipelago, and their appearance differs on islands with different climates. So, in those places where there is higher humidity on the hills, the shell of turtles is dome-shaped, the neck is short, and the animal itself is large. On flat islands with a dry climate, the shell has taken the form of a saddle, the neck is long, and the size of the turtle is smaller. This example makes clear Darwin's theory of the evolution of species.

According to Darwin, the evolution of all living things is based on three basic facts: more offspring are born than can survive; representatives of different species have different traits to adapt to the conditions offered; these traits are heritable. Thus, competition within species is formed and only the strongest can survive, passing on strong genes to offspring. This is how the principle of natural selection works.

Elephant tortoises almost died out in the 20th century because they were massively exterminated for their meat and shell. Of the 250 thousand of these reptiles, only 3,000 remained in the 70s. But scientists were closely engaged in the resurrection of the population and developed a program for growing relic armored ones on special farms. The bred individuals are then released to freedom. In the XXI century, the number of Galapagos tortoises is 19 thousand, and this species is designated as vulnerable.

marine iguana

A unique animal that lives only on these islands. The only marine lizard on the planet that, due to a lack of terrestrial food, has evolved and now feeds on algae. Iguanas crawl into the water in those places where it has warmed up enough, and plunge mainly in shallow water. It is amazing that they can hold their breath for an hour, at which time the oxygen stored before diving enters only in their vital important organs. Coming out of the water, the lizard hurries to warm up in the sun as soon as possible, clinging to hot stones, otherwise it may die from hypothermia. Its powerful claws form a strong grip even with smooth stone.

land iguana

A beautiful creature shimmering with all the colors of the rainbow. It feeds on juicy prickly pear fruits and fruits. An iguana can sit under a cactus for hours and wait for the fruit to fall off. Eats it along with thorns. The reptile pulls out needles stuck in its mouth with its paw or by rotating its tongue, and with its paw it can also remove thorns from its body. Not all iguanas are iguanas, and many gray land iguanas can be found on the islands. These are hybrids - the offspring of marine and terrestrial iguanas. Aquatic representatives of the species often attack land females and mate with them. Well, it has been established whether hybrids are capable of procreation.

This is an amazing bird. During the mating season, males inflate a huge bright red bag hanging from the larynx to attract females. The name is derived from the tendency to accompany ships - frigates - in the hope of a treat. Birds cannot land on water, because once wet they cannot fly, so they always hover over the sea. Before starting to attract a female, the male builds a cozy nest.

blue-footed boobies

A beautiful and unusual bird of rather large size - females reach a height of 80 cm. Its appearance justifies the name, since the paws with blue swimming membranes. The brightness of the color is crucial when a female chooses a male for mating. Gannet laying is done every 8 months, 2-3 eggs each. Parents take turns sitting on the nest for 40 days, and the hatched chicks remain in it for more than three months.

Gannets feed on sea fish, they are excellent divers - the bird dives into the water from a height and goes vertically down to a depth of up to 25 m. It is interesting that the process of capturing fish occurs only on the way back to the surface, when surfacing. Gannets are prone to courage, the bird is not afraid of anyone, even a person, and fiercely protects the nest. The gannet is not endemic to the Galapagos, the islands are just the preferences of these birds, and you can see them in Mexico, in the Gulf of California, and on the islands.

Gabby courting a girlfriend:

Darwin's finches

At first glance, an ordinary little bird. But its importance in evolution is invaluable. On the example of finches, the great scientist derived his theory of natural selection. In short: the subspecies Darwin's finch is endemic to the Galapagos, millions of years ago, its ancestors were brought to the archipelago by a fair wind. Initially, one species of finches lived on all the islands, but under the influence of the external environment, it was forced to evolve. Different islands have their own climate and vegetation, so birds everywhere differ in the shape of their beak. In some it is thick and wide, in others it is narrow and sharp, that is, the beaks have changed in the conditions of different food production.

In 1858, Darwin's monumental work On the Origin of Species was published, which the church anathematized. From the point of view of religion, the Creator created the world, respectively, he also created 13 different finches for 13 Galapagos Islands.

The Galapagos Islands are home to many other representatives of the animal world:

• the green sea turtle is a beautiful reptile famous for always returning to its birthplace thousands of miles away to lay its eggs;
• sea ​​lions and seals - both species belong to the genus of eared seals;
• Galapagos cormorant is a land bird that has lost the ability to fly. It feeds on fish no further than 100 m from the shore, and enters the water, rotating with its whole body, as if drilling into it;
• buzzard - a falcon about 55 cm long, is the only predator of the archipelago. It feeds on lizards and small iguanas;
• white (mask) booby - has a clear rim around the beak and black edging of the wings. It always lays two eggs, but only one chick survives, the strongest, and the weaker ones are pushed out of the nest by the parents (natural selection in action!).

The Galapagos is a unique place, and scientists are putting a lot of effort into keeping the populations in a "pure" form. The archipelago is difficult, expensive and time consuming to get to, but it's worth the effort to be able to see the incredible animals and birds up close. They lived long before humans appeared on the planet as a species.