Seliger - attractive stretches for residents of large cities. Cafes and restaurants in Seliger. Museum of Nature of the Seliger Territory

July 24th, 2016 08:49 am

weekly report road trip to Seliger and its environs: to Ostashkov, a monastery in the Nilova Pustyn, to the source of the Volga, to Selizharovo and to the Okovetsky spring, to the village of Peno with the museum of the partisan Lisa Chaikina, and to the Seliger Kizhi - the churches of the Shirkov churchyard. Route map and practical information attached.

If you are planning to go to Seliger, most likely you will not miss Ostashkov. It is located about 370 kilometers from Moscow, and you can get to it through Torzhok - along the Leningrad highway or through Rzhev - along Novorizhskoye. In terms of distance, this is almost the same, but it is believed that the second option is faster. Since we generally started to Seliger from a dacha near Volokolamsk, for us the question of choosing a road was not even a question. Rzhev (mark A on the map) met our crew with such a stele with a stork's nest on top. If anything, the stork in the photo is real! :)

In the village of Khoroshevo near Rzhev, a house has been preserved in which Stalin stayed in August 1943 during his only trip to the front during the war. From here, he gave the order for the first military salute - in honor of the liberation of Orel and Belgorod. Now in this house there is a small museum, which we can’t get into in any way (this was already the second attempt). Although according to the schedule the museum should work on Sundays, we were greeted by a handwritten announcement on the fence with information that the museum was closed that particular Sunday.

But every cloud has a silver lining - we spent the time we saved on Stalin's hut driving to the Okovetsky spring (mark B on the map), to which we had to make a detour of 20 kilometers along dirt and broken asphalt roads. Remember the chronicle Okovets forest? So it's here - in the center of the modern Tver region. At the source there is a skete of the monastery in the Nile Desert, so this place is directly related to Seliger.

The Okovetsky spring is located in a forest thicket in the bend of the Pyroshny River, a few kilometers from the village of Okovtsy. This village arose after the acquisition of two miraculous icons in 1539, in honor of which a church was built on this site (the current one, however, is already in the middle of the 18th century). Okovets icons were widely known - they were even taken to Moscow to Ivan the Terrible, but after the revolution they disappeared.

The road to Seliger through Rzhev leads through the village of Selizharovo (marker C on the map), the administrative center of the Selizharovsky district. Once there was a large influential monastery here, known since the beginning of the 16th century, but now only the old church and the bell tower restored in 2009 have remained of it.

So, with several stops along the way, in the evening we got to Seliger. I will show the place where we lived towards the end of the post, but for now let's fast forward to the second day of our trip, which was dedicated to the trip to the source of the Volga (mark D on the map). The main Russian river flows in a thin stream from a forest swamp a few kilometers from the border of the Tver and Novgorod regions.

Near the source of the Volga there is a small monastery, consisting of two churches. Both buildings are from the beginning of the 20th century, although this monastery was founded under Alexei Mikhailovich.

Not far from the source of the Volga there is a place known as Olgin Khutor. This is a farm, the owners of which at the same time arranged a cafe for tourists (the only one within a radius of 20-30 kilometers), something like a museum of antiquities from various interesting junk and a mini-park on the theme of Lukomorye with a mermaid on branches and a cat on a chain. I really love such stories and people who, without loud words and millions of budgets, develop tourism infrastructure in the country and instead of going to work in big cities make the places where they live better.

First big lake, into which the Volga flows, is called Sterzh. It is believed that if you look at it from high point, you can see the core of the Volga current in the total mass of water. We didn't see. :) Not far from the shore of the lake, there is a wooden chapel on a hillock, to which once a year religious processions are held from the source of the Volga - this is 8 kilometers one way.

In the afternoon, we drove to the village of Berezovy Ryad (a branch up and to the right of the D mark on the map), located in a place called the top of Seliger. They say that whoever has not been here has not seen Seliger. The place turned out to be really picturesque.

Once upon a time there were ancient settlement, then a wooden prison, and at the beginning of the 20th century there were three churches in Berezovy Ryad. Now there is only one church, and a modern one - none of the old churches survived the past century. The current wooden Church of the Transfiguration was consecrated in 2002.

The next day was devoted to the main attraction of Seliger - the monastery of the Nil Hermitage (mark E on the map), located on the island of Stolobny near the village of Svetlitsa.

The surrounding nature of the Nilova Hermitage resembles the northern monasteries, and the architecture - rather, Petersburg. This is a whole city on the island: five churches, several dozen stone buildings, a granite embankment. By the way, the project of the main temple of the monastery was put up for the competition of projects of St. Isaac's Cathedral.

Climbing the bell tower of the cathedral, you can personally be impressed by the most replicated postcard view of Seliger.

The monastery has a small museum. It has two halls with icons, figurines of the Monk Nilus, the founder of the monastery, and all kinds of church utensils. Most of these items were collected from local residents who preserved them in Soviet times. There are no special historical values ​​\u200b\u200bhere - the museum curator honestly warns about this.

In several places on Seliger, brick huts of the late 19th - early 20th century have been preserved. Agree, brick is an unusual choice of material for mass civil engineering in forest land in those times. Guidebooks sent to look for these huts in Zaplavye and Kravotyn. The flood (about an hour and a half from the monastery on dirt roads) seemed to us a very distant option, but we reached Kravotyn (a small branch upward from the E mark on the map). In addition to brick huts, there is also a church from the end of the 18th century.

However, as practice has shown, you can see such houses in the villages of Zhar, Lyapino, Peski, closer to the Nilova Desert.

And some of them open beautiful views to the monastery.

On Tuesday, when we went to Nilova Pustyn, there were two thunderstorms, but on the whole the weather was good. But Wednesday was the only cloudy and cool day during our trip. Because of this, I had to abandon the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bdriving along Seliger on a boat, although River Station Ostashkov (mark F on the map), we still visited.

In the middle of the 19th century, Ostashkov was perhaps the most prosperous county town Russian Empire. In the modern Russian regional center, only shabby traces of this prosperity remain. former luxury. This town is sweet in its own way, but infinitely dull in its neglect: no roads, no amenities, no worthy maintenance of historical buildings. The photo is still quite a decent option, but this central Street and a view towards the central square.

However, even on the central street of Ostashkov - Lenin Avenue - there is no normal sidewalk. A purely rural approach: where the owners of the buildings overlooking the street took care of the improvement, there are areas lined with tiles, where not - there are pieces of land with puddles.

But lovers of antiquity, of course, will find a lot of interesting things in Ostashkov. Here, for example, is the house of the painter Mitin, rather pompous for a provincial artist.

And this building, which a few years ago housed the current fire station. Then the firemen moved to a new place, and this historical object mothballed. By the way, the voluntary fire brigade, created in Ostashkov in 1843, was the first in the country, so its building can be considered one of the oldest fire departments in Russia.

Trinity Cathedral of the late 17th century, which houses the main exposition local history museum. It looks, like the rest of Ostashkov, shabby.

The village of Peno (mark G on the map), to which we went the next day, is the regional center of the Tver region adjacent to Ostashkov. This settlement arose only at the beginning of the 20th century as a station settlement. So you should not look for ancient sights here, even the church is new.

In Peno, everything is connected with the name of the partisan Lisa Chaikina, the Hero Soviet Union, who was born, conducted her underground activities and was martyred on the territory of the Penovsky district. The name of Chaikina is the central street of the village and the school, the local cinema is called "The Seagull" and even on the coat of arms of the district - also in honor of the legendary partisan - this bird is depicted. There is a memorial in the center of the village. mass grave, in which Lisa Chaikina is buried with her comrades.

This girl conducted reconnaissance and propaganda activities in the rear of the Nazis, and when she was captured, even under torture, she refused to give out the location of the partisan detachment. In November 1941, she was shot on the shore of a lake in the village of Peno. An obelisk has now been erected at this site.

There is also a small museum of Lisa Chaikina in the village. In one of the three halls, the furnishings of the room in which she lived before the war are recreated.

Not far from the village of Peno, on the shore of the lake of the same name, there is another place associated with the history of the Great Patriotic War. Memorial "Ksty" - this Seliger Khatyn. On January 9, 1942, during the retreat, the Nazis shot and burned 78 local residents here - women, the elderly and children. In the center of the composition is the figure of a woman falling backwards with baby on hands.

After the Ksty memorial, we delved into the Tver forests to get to the so-called Shirkov churchyard - a church ensemble near the village of Shirkovo, about 20 kilometers of a forest road from the Ostashkov-Peno highway. This place is called the Seliger Kizhi. Well, strictly speaking, Seliger, of course, has nothing to do with it, since the ensemble stands on the shore of Lake Vselug, which is part of the system of Upper Volga lakes. But in a broad sense, all this, of course, is the Seliger Territory.
There are two churches here. Both are John the Baptist. One is brick, from the beginning of the 20th century, the other is wooden, already in 1694 (she is in the frame). It was built, as usual, without a single nail and, despite the outward simplicity of construction, it is very impressive up close with its massiveness and solidity.

Our trip to Seliger was conceived as a six-day trip, but we liked it so much that we decided to extend our stay there by one day more than planned. And to extend it not in order to go somewhere else, but simply to take a walk around the village in which we lived and its environs.
By the way, we stopped at guest house"Katerina" in the village of Zarechye ( settlements there are several with this name on Seliger, this is the District that is next to Nikolo-Rozhok) and were completely satisfied with it.

Our room is not five-star chic, but cozy.

View from our window. To the shore of Seliger (it is behind us) from here is about fifty meters.

As such, the beach in Zarechye (by the way, the locals speak with the accent on the first syllable - ZARechye) is only on the territory of the Sokol boarding house, but there are plenty of approaches to the water, so it’s easy to find a place to swim. And here you can also arrange rides for yourself on almost everything that moves on or above the water: from a rowing boat to a hydroplane. :)

There is a mini-market in the village, where before leaving we bought a “souvenir” fish for relatives.

In the neighboring village of Nikolo-Rozhok, there is a mid-18th century Assumption Church. By the way, this is known historical place throughout Seliger. Once there was an ancient settlement in the form of a horn, and then a large Nikolsky monastery (hence the name - Nikola-Rozhok). Now only one church remains.

Zarechye and Nikola-Rozhka have very pleasant surroundings with sandy shores. Many vacationers come here with tents. And most importantly, these shores are located next to strawberry and blueberry forests! :)

For a week trip to Seliger we drove 1340 kilometers (more than half was the way there and back). The road to Ostashkov via Rzhev and Selizharovo is from excellent to tolerable. Around Seliger itself, the roads are different, there are very bad ones (and this applies to both asphalt and unpaved roads). In an unequal battle with them, our car lost one of the mudguards, but on the whole it withstood the test of pits and potholes. :)

The average impression of the Seliger roads can be expressed with such a photograph. The picture was taken on the section Svapusche - Birch Row.

In conclusion, I will show you some photos from the way back. Gloomy before that, Ostashkov accompanied us home in the sun.

A sketch from Selizharovo: a tractor, Lenin and the building of the local administration.

In Selizharovo, by the way, the Volga and Selizharovka meet - the only river flowing from Seliger. If you look closely, the confluence can be seen in this picture. In good weather, you can stop there and swim. It is in the very center of the village, next to the remains of the monastery.

And really at the end a small summary by Seliger. As you can see, we really liked it there. This is a great destination to combine outdoor recreation and sightseeing, which is enough for a week-long trip. And all this is located very close to Moscow, although during our stay on Seliger we could not at all believe that we were only a few hours drive from home - it seemed that we were at least somewhere in Leningrad region or Karelia. In general, I boldly recommend the Seliger Territory to everyone, love
lam to travel around Russia. The only thing is that it is better to come here, of course, by your own car. Without it, getting here will not be so convenient, and it will be difficult to drive around local attractions.

Strictly speaking, Seliger is not a lake, but a system of lakes connected by channels. Plowed this territory in old times glacier, left depressions, which over time were occupied by water - the current Seliger. The huge lake extends in two regions: Novgorod and Tver.

Indented coastline, secluded coves, shores covered with coniferous forests, sandy beaches, many islands, clear water - there are many scenic spots for relax. Traditionally, "uncivilized" tourists rest on the banks of Seliger. Tents, fishing, leisurely walks... In short, an effective and easy way to break away from the hustle and bustle of the city and merge with nature.

On one of the islands - Stolobny - there is a unique natural and cultural landscape Nilo-Stolobenskaya desert.

Botovo

Botovo is a quiet and cozy recreation center on Lake Seliger, which allows visitors to feel the friendly atmosphere of a country cottage, gives the opportunity to live on the lake, surrounded by flowers and greenery.

Peace and quiet, which is saturated with the atmosphere of the recreation center, allow you to relax, forget about worries and switch to fishing, the opportunity to swim and sunbathe.

The recreation center Botovo is located in a secluded place on the outskirts of a small village, on the very shore of Lake Seliger, away from places chosen by noisy tourists. Private well maintained beach beautiful landscape, clean air and a large coastline give good rest on Seliger and the strength to live on.

What sights of Seliger did you like? There are icons next to the photo, by clicking on which you can rate a particular place.

Nilo-Stolobenskaya desert (Nilova desert)

Orthodox monastery on the island of Stolobny has been known since the 16th century. During its existence, he knew times of prosperity and complete devastation. Valuable as a place where the venerable elder Nil Stolobensky showed his spiritual feat (his holy relics are kept here) and as a unique architectural and natural landscape of true beauty.

The heyday of the Nile Desert came at the beginning of the 20th century. Then the classical strict buildings and the granite wall encircling them made the monastery complex look like St. Petersburg. The monastery became a monolith that harmoniously combined nature and architecture.

During the years of Soviet power, the once richest monastery was plundered. It is currently being restored from ruins. The pilgrimage trail does not overgrow on a secluded island. After all, such prayerful places comfort the soul, pacify and bring one closer to the highest truth.

In the mode, you can view the sights on Seliger only by photographs.

Okovets holy key

In the Tver region, at the bend of the Pyroshnya River, a spring springs from under the ground, which is considered sacred by Christians. This source is called Okovetsky by the name of the nearby village. Healing properties are attributed to the water of the Okovetsky holy spring, in order to drink this water and bathe in the source, hundreds of pilgrims come here every year.

There is a legend associated with finding the source. In the sixteenth century, two robbers hiding from the law in local forest, in the branches of a huge tree, two icons were revealed - the Cross of the Lord and the Mother of God with the Child. According to legend, miraculous light emanated from the icons, and soon people noticed that the icons and the spring that was beating not far from this place had healing powers. Two churches were built on the site of the appearance of the icons. Unfortunately, during the years of Soviet power, the churches were destroyed and the icons were lost.

Today, a chapel has been erected near the Okovetsky holy spring, and an open font has been built above the source itself, where everyone can plunge into the clear, icy water of the source.

The most popular attractions on Seliger with descriptions and photos for every taste. choose best places for visiting famous places Seliger on our website.

Between Moscow and St. Petersburg in the region of the Valdai Upland is one of the most beautiful lakes in Russia - Lake Seliger. Seliger is not only a lake, it is a lake region, where shady rivers flow, where there are many wide reaches, bays, channels. We can say that this is a picturesque land of water and forests. For many centuries this territory belonged to the ancient Finns. Therefore, many of the names of the local lakes and rivers originated from them. And in the Russian chronicles, Seliger was first mentioned in the twelfth century.

The Seliger Territory has a fairly vast territory, combining part of the Tver region and the outskirts of Novgorod. If we talk about the lake itself, its area is 260 square meters. This also includes 38 square meters of islands, of which there are about one hundred and sixty on Seliger. The total area of ​​the entire Seliger region is 2275 square meters.

About one hundred and ten tributaries flow into Seliger, and only one Selizharovka river flows out of it, which flows into the Volga. The lake is located above sea level at an altitude of about two hundred meters and has glacial origin, therefore, its shape is very peculiar, it is rather not a lake in the usual sense, but a chain of lakes a hundred kilometers long, between which there are narrow channels. The shores of the lake are distinguished by their picturesqueness: in some places they are covered with forest, and in some places they are bays that amaze with their beauty. The channels that separate the lakes are always followed by a stretch. There are twenty-four such reaches on Seliger.

Most big Island Seligera Khachin, with an area of ​​thirty-one square meters, is located in the central part of the lake. Nine inland lakes can be seen in its rich vegetation.

Nature and climate of Seliger.

The relief of Seliger is mostly hilly, but there are also plains. The hills rise above sea level up to three hundred meters, and above the plains - up to sixty meters. In places there are large boulders, as well as the remains of the Dnieper glaciation - sands. Along the shores of the lakes you can see many beaches natural origin. There are also steep banks, overgrown with coniferous trees: spruce and pine.

The climate of Seliger can be described as mild and humid. Average annual temperature air is four degrees above zero. It is warmest on Seliger in July. And in general, the whole summer is warm and sunny, if it rains, then they are most often short-lived. seasonal changes occur two weeks later than in the central part of Russia. The winds on the island are usually from the west and southwest. The ice cover on the lake lasts for almost five months. By the beginning of May, it is already melting. And the water in Seliger is quickly gaining temperature and in June it reaches twenty degrees Celsius, and in July it warms up to twenty-five degrees.

The vegetation of the region pleases with its diversity, here you can find plants that seem to be collected from different territories of Russia. More than others, coniferous trees are represented on the lake: spruce and pine, as well as birch and aspen. An abundance of mountain ash, bird cherry and willow. Oaks, maples, ash trees and even maple and fir trees also grow. Of the shrubs, alder, hazel, juniper, and buckthorn can be noted. Seliger is distinguished not only by the variety of trees, here in the summer you can see a huge number of flowers and herbs.

Separately, we can say that the forests of Seliger are very rich in mushrooms. Boroviks, however, can be found a little, but aspen mushrooms, boletus, chanterelles and honey mushrooms are in abundance. There are also many berry places on Seliger. Cloudberries, blueberries, blueberries, lingonberries, cranberries, as well as raspberries and even currants grow here.

Representatives of the animal world living on Seliger do not differ from the inhabitants of the forests of the central part of Russia, these are: elk, wild boar, bear, fox, wolf, hare, marten, squirrel, etc. If you decide to travel around this fertile land, then you will definitely meet gulls, herons, cranes, hazel grouse, woodpeckers and many other birds that inhabit the forests of Seliger. Perhaps you will be lucky to see swans. Quite often, snakes come across on the territory of the region. The lake is rich in fish, which attracts anglers to it. Bream, pike, perch, burbot and even eel are found here, about thirty species of fish in total.

Sights of Lake Seliger.

Seliger is interesting for its historical heritage. There are many monasteries and ancient churches on the islands of the region. As a rule, visitors start their route from the city of Ostashkov, which used to be a fishing village. The inhabitants of the city were engaged in fishing, made boats and fishing tackle, and later leather craft began to develop there. The city got its name from the name of the fisherman Eustathius.

On the island of Stolbny there is, to this day, a functioning monastery (Nilovo-Stolbenskaya Hermitage). The name of the monastery is associated with the healer and miracle worker Nile, who lived on this island. The monastery was founded in the sixteenth century. On the territory of the monastery there is a five-domed Epiphany Cathedral with a bell tower, in which the relics of St. Nile are located.

Another attraction of Seliger is the Ignach cross. As the legend says, the Tatar-Mongols began to retreat from him. However, the cross itself has not been preserved and its exact location is unknown.

> "Little Switzerland" Seliger - the city of Valdai. It is located on the shore of Valdai Lake.

In the village of Rogozha, the Seliger Museum of Nature was opened. As exhibits, it presents rare species of flora and fauna of the region.

Another interesting point worth noting. In these parts, near the village of Volgino Verkhovye, a pure spring flows, which is the source great river- Volga.

Rest and treatment on Seliger.

To spend interesting and memorable vacation days, it is not necessary to go abroad or to warmer climes. In our strip there are many beautiful and unique places which are worth visiting. Lake Seliger is rightfully considered such a place.

Water tourism.

Rafting on the Seliger rivers can be for any level of training. For experienced tourists, rafting is carried out along the rivers: Upper Volga, Berezaika, Zhizhitsa and Western Dvina. On some rivers, you must have rescue equipment with you: on Valdayka and Granichnaya. But the Osuga, Lagovezh and Tvertsa rivers are suitable for those who do not yet have rafting skills.

Mixed routes are considered the most fascinating on Seliger, they will have to go from one lake to another along channels and rivers, and in some places with portages. On Seliger, you can use various floating facilities for tourist routes: kayaks, catamarans and sailboats. In addition to rafting, there are other activities on the water: swimming, diving, windsurfing and jet skis.

Pilgrimage to Seliger.

Most often, pilgrims tend to visit the Nilova Hermitage, a sixteenth-century monastery located on Stolbny Island. At present, in the center of the monastery is the Epiphany Cathedral with a bell tower, a majestic five-domed structure. Next to it is the oldest building of the monastery, built in 1699 - the Church of All Saints, which housed the hospital wards.

Hunting and fishing on Seliger.

As mentioned above, more than thirty species of different fish live in the rivers and lakes of Seliger. Many of them are popular with fishing enthusiasts, these are: bream, pike perch, pike, perch. Also in in large numbers there are smelt and ruff. Less common are ide, crucian carp, burbot, gudgeon and others. The most valuable and amazing catch can be: whitefish, grayling, asp, chub, lamprey, loach. And if you are very lucky, you can catch an eel or a peled. It is possible that in some lakes you can catch catfish.

Hunting on Seliger is mainly for bear, wild boar, elk, lynx. Or birds: pheasant, black grouse, capercaillie, duck. However, fishermen and hunters should remember that they have a license.

Treatment on Seliger.

People come to Seliger not only for tourism, recreation, fishing or hunting. Here you can improve your health. Climatic conditions this region contribute to this. Rest on Seliger is measured, far from the hustle and bustle, you can fully enjoy the beauty of the local nature, its age-old peace.

Doctors recommend rest on Seliger to people who need sedative therapy. It will also be useful to visit these parts for people suffering from hypertension, anemia, and those who have respiratory problems. For those who have a metabolic disorder or those who suffer from gout, Seliger is also a great place to relax.

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Seliger is a legendary lake country between two capitals, the mecca of Soviet "wild tourism", the birthplace of bears from a painting by Ivan Shishkin.

Lake Seliger needs no introduction - it is one of the most popular outdoor recreation areas in European Russia. In addition to exceptional natural beauties and historical landmarks, the popularity of Seliger was also influenced by a very convenient location: the lake is located on the Valdai Hills, on the territory of the Tver and partly Novgorod region, between Moscow and St. Petersburg.

Two major highways lead from the capital to Seliger - Leningradskoye and Novorizhskoye highways. A distance of 400 kilometers without traffic jams can be overcome in four hours. It is not surprising that a good half of the numbers on the cars of vacationers are Moscow, but not only: they go to the lake from the neighboring regions - Leningrad, Novgorod, Smolensk - and from afar, even from the Volga region. True, in recent years, the concept of "Seliger" for many has become associated with the summer near-political forum, which took place on the shore of the lake. However, in fact, this is a parallel reality that concerns only the direct participants of the event and residents of nearby villages and does not affect the lives of vacationers in any way. The real Seliger is a phenomenon of a completely different scale. Some bewilderment is caused only by the fact that the forum was noisy literally next to the most important historical sight of Seliger - the Nile Desert. The holy hermit Nil Stolobensky, who fled here from the hustle and bustle of the world, hardly approves of such a neighborhood.

We will talk about the historical sights of Seliger below, but you need to start with nature. She is not just very beautiful on Seliger, but very unusual. The unusualness is due to the origin of the lake: it was formed by a glacier, which, in the course of its movement, seemed to scratch the ground, and these scratches were filled with water. As a result, Seliger is not one wide body of water, but a chain of lakes connected by channels. A peculiar lake country with a specific relief and landscape. One hundred and ten rivers flow into Seliger, and only one flows out of the lake - Selizharovka.

The coastline of Seliger is rugged and intricate, wherever you look - picturesque bays or peninsulas are everywhere, overgrown with century-old pines. From almost all sides, the lake is surrounded by magnificent pine forests, bright even in the most cloudy weather, filled with the aroma of pine needles, with summer thickets of blueberries and lingonberries, with a sea of ​​​​mushrooms in August - you can, as they say, mow obliquely. These pine forests can be considered exemplary Russian forests, if only because such a pine forest is depicted in the textbook painting by Ivan Shishkin “Morning in pine forest". The artist made sketches for it on one of the islands of Seliger - on Gorodomlya.

Islands are another feature of the lake. There are a lot of them (168 in total), and they define the landscape: they share body of water, so it is impossible to estimate its size from the shore - the lake seems small, because a piece of land always looms before your eyes. It is noteworthy that there are inland lakes on the Seliger Islands, and on some inland lakes there are also own islands, forming a picturesque landscape matryoshka. On Khachin, for example, there are thirteen lakes, stretched in a chain from north to south.

Due to the abundance of islands, Seliger does not look like a "lake-sea" at all, but the indented coastline significantly increases its length - more than 500 km. That is half a thousand kilometers of an ideal recreational area.

A sufficient number of man-made sights are inscribed in this beautiful natural space. The Nil Desert, where pilgrims flock in winter and summer, we have already mentioned. South of the island Stolobny, on which the monastery stands, is the city of Ostashkov - the only city on Seliger. Ostashkov is called (albeit with a big advance payment) “Russian Venice” - it is washed by a lake on three sides, some houses grow straight out of the water, and wonderful historical buildings are combined with the unusual atmosphere of a lake port.

36 kilometers from Ostashkov, on the shores of Lake Peno (there are many such independent lakes in the vicinity of Seliger), there is Shirkov churchyard - not even an analogue, but the forerunner of Kizhi. local wooden church more than worthy of special attention of tourists, which is still attracted by another attraction - the source of the Volga. The main Russian river begins 70 kilometers from Ostashkov, west of Seliger, near the village of Volgoverkhovye - like a completely unpresentable stream, which only enhances the effect. At the source of the Volga, St. Olginsky Upper Volga Monastery was built, so the place is popular not only among secular tourists, but also among pilgrims.

The duty epithet "unique" is suitable for almost all Seliger objects, both natural and historical. Even the villages on the lake are unusual - you will not find similar rural architecture in all of Russia. special world Seligera fascinates people, makes them return to the lake again and again, each time looking for new experiences and new opportunities for a quiet or active rest in the widest range - from yachting, fishing, hunting, cycling to studying architecture and monastic history. Therefore, we move from lyrics to specific recommendations.

Local Features

Infrastructure

The Ostashkovsky district, the eastern part of the Penovsky and part of the Selizharovsky districts that surround Seliger are included in resort area local importance(the status of the resort of this area was assigned in 1974). This does not give any special state support or protection status, but it explains why you involuntarily recall Sochi on Seliger: the “resort” infrastructure is very familiar. First of all, a weak match between price and quality.

Rest on Seliger, as on Black Sea coast, is very expensive, despite the dubious service and underdeveloped infrastructure. A full-fledged resort involves convenient transport, a civilized trade network, the ability to choose hotels and catering establishments of different price categories. From this list on Seliger, as in Adler, there is only one item - a large selection of accommodations, from chic club hotels to dilapidated private houses rented out to tourists by local residents. That is, without an overnight stay on Seliger, no one will remain even in high season, in July - but on the condition that you are ready to pay 6-8 thousand rubles a day for the most modest house on the coast and rest without any fuss, just to relax in nature, swim and wander through the surrounding forests. If you want something more, you will need a more solid amount.

There are a lot of tourists on Seliger even in winter - the benefit of camp sites with all amenities abounds and there is something to do. The ice on the lake usually rises in January and disappears by May. People ride snowmobiles and skis, sit over the holes in anticipation of a bite, go on excursions. Needless to say, how fluffy and dazzlingly white snow is here, how magnificent winter nature. In spring and autumn, the lake is also beautiful - besides, prices at camp sites are significantly reduced. Unsuccessful can be considered only the period of thaw - in November and March.

Transport

There are a lot of villages around Seliger, which, in principle, are connected bus routes. However, buses rarely run, it is inconvenient or simply impossible to get to nearby attractions: for example, you can only get to Shirkov Pogost by car. The distances here are rather big, and almost all the surrounding natural routes - like traveling along the ring of lakes around Seliger - require personal transport.

Here you need not just a car, but a cross-country vehicle. Asphalt roads around Seliger are no better than primers, especially in muddy conditions. Locals say that car engines simply fall off after two or three years of driving on such roads. So if you are going to Seliger in a car, be prepared to drive at a snail's pace and grab a full set of tools for express repairs.

It is impossible to rent an SUV in Ostashkov, such services are not yet provided. It is also difficult to find a suitable car in Tver and Rzhev (the nearest large cities), the rental car fleet is too small. The only reliable way out is to drive a car from Moscow or St. Petersburg.

The main gas stations are concentrated around Ostashkov, so if you are going to ride around the lake, you need to refuel in advance.

For those who, in principle, do not drive a car, they remain tourist buses and ships. You can stay in Ostashkov and use the offers of city travel agencies - they organize bus tours. In the summer, motor ships are added to the buses. There are many water routes along Seliger, sights (Nilova Pustyn, temples along the banks, Silver Lake) can be viewed both from the water and during stops when guides conduct excursions. In addition, the ship is the most budgetary way to get to Khachin, largest island on Seliger.

If you want to explore the lake on your own route and schedule, you will have to hire a boat. It is not so easy: a motorboat is rented only to those who have special rights, and you can ride a simple rowboat, but it is difficult to move between attractions - too long distances and strong currents. The alternative is private boats, which are now available in almost every village or camp site, especially in Ostashkov. Ads hang on every fence: from 2 thousand rubles per hour, anywhere in the lake. The largest "taxi park" of boats is located near the bridge connecting the village of Svetlitsa with the island of Stolobny.

wild tourism

The tourist fame of Seliger was created by "savages" back in those years when there was no talk of any infrastructure around the lake. Camp sites on Seliger began to grow like mushrooms only from the mid-1990s, and before that, people who came here were mostly content with tents. Before the revolution, Seliger was not at all considered a place of rest: pilgrims went to the Nilova Hermitage and other monasteries, and fishermen went about their business on the lake, supplying their catch to both capitals. So Seliger tourist is a Soviet project.

During the Soviet and post-Soviet years, entire dynasties formed on Seliger active tourists: kayakers, hikers - in general, those who left civilization for a while, putting up a tent on the shore, as in the comedy "Three Plus Two". Such tourists believe that this is “their” place, and they know every clearing here. However, there are no special staked points on Seliger, and beginners can set up camp anywhere, if it is not a private area. Private properties are usually fenced off, and you can accidentally get on them only if you get on the water.

You can put up tents directly on the shore, they don’t take money for it. This is what everyone does - they are located right by the water, since the shores are flat and sandy. It is too characteristic Seligera: sand underfoot and pine trees overhead. There is no need to go deep into the forest, moving away from the water and wonderful views.

Tourists stop at any convenient location, and on the "mainland" (as they call coastline around Seliger), and on the islands. The largest island of Khachin is 6 km wide, 9 km long. The smallest one is Kopeyka, where there is enough space for exactly one tent: I climbed out of it and immediately into the lake. It is believed that staying on the island is "cooler" than on the mainland. In essence, this is a universal rule: holidays on the islands are always more prestigious. Kayakers, who find it easiest to navigate the water, prefer to stop at the most picturesque islands. And there are a lot of kayakers on Seliger - they walk along the surface of the lake in shoals, like ducks.

For those who only want to try the “savage” vacation, there is no need to buy all the equipment: in Lately on Seliger began to organize campsites. 500 rubles per person per day, tent, sleeping bags and simple Three meals a day included in the price. One of the campsites is in Khachin, on the shore of Lake Beloe.

Catering and food

Despite the many solvent tourists in their own cars, it is difficult to find a full-fledged catering establishment around Seliger. Most of cafes and restaurants are open at camp sites and hotels, only for guests. There are no public roadside or beach establishments - except perhaps a family cafe in the village of Volokhovshchina on the island of Khachin. It is also tight with shops in the villages: summer residents are bought in cities, and local residents are served by a mobile shop that arrives on certain days. So, when planning a route, take care of supplies in advance - there are no problems with supermarkets in Ostashkov (there are even more of them than such a small town needs), you can buy everything you need.

The underdeveloped public catering is partly offset by the abundance of smoked fish, which is sold both on the roads and in the villages. It has an unusually appetizing shine with golden sides, and this impression is enhanced on an empty stomach. But be careful, and not even because the fish can be “second freshness” (this is quite easily determined by the smell): the vast majority of what is sold is not caught at all in Seliger. Greenling, mackerel, carps, even eels, which are considered the culinary symbol of Seliger, are most often imported. Fish caught in Seliger can be determined by the price: it is much more expensive. As a rule, they honestly sell bream, pike perch, perch and pike, but this should be clarified additionally. You can find Seliger eels - they differ in solid size (a meter or more in length) and, again, in price. For such a giant, they ask from 4,000 rubles, and not very large (New Zealand) are sold for 1,500–2,000 rubles.

The most common fish on Seliger is bream. In addition, there are burbots, ruffs, perch, zander, pike, tench, roach and rudd. In the spring eel is well caught.

Ecology

And savages and organized tourists every year becomes more and more, and along with them become aggravated ecological problems. Many refer to Seliger as infantile, as if the lake is a beautiful toy: they played and abandoned it, not thinking about what will happen tomorrow.

The stocking of Seliger has not been carried out for many years, and the fishermen are constantly arriving. Even the ban on catching nets does not help.

The saddest thing is garbage. Veterans of Seliger behave responsibly - they collect their garbage and throw it into containers. This is a civilized way, but some people think that leaving garbage in place is ugly, taking it with you is a chore, but burying it is the very thing. This, of course, is barbarism. Many vacationers do not strain at all and arrange dumps near their tent camps or where they come for picnics, even if they live in camp sites. As a result, instead of the famous landscapes and Shishkin's morning in pine forest we see mountains of plastic bags rising between the pines or right on the shore. Behind these mountains, all talk of uniqueness fades, " tourist gem» and exceptional value amazing lake. natural monument of federal significance runs the risk of becoming a collective garbage dump.

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Seliger is the name of a complex of lakes that are of glacial origin. This natural zone is located in the Novgorod and Tver regions of Russia. In a different way, the territory of Seliger is also called Ostashkovsky, which corresponds to the city of Ostashkov, which stands on the shore of the lake. This place has gained popularity among those who like to relax within the country. Rest on Seliger with a tent is interesting and, most importantly, affordable.

It is not difficult to get here, in addition, the infrastructure for tourists is being developed more and more every year. Those who prefer secluded pastime in nature also like to relax on Seliger. There are enough people here who come, as they say, "savage", set up entire camps or settle alone.

with tents

If you came to these parts for the first time, then this vacation option may be the most suitable. On the shores of the lakes there are many campsites where you can find a variety of tourist services. According to the reviews of visitors, resting on Seliger with a tent has both pluses and minuses. Although this question remains purely individual and depends on the personal preferences of travelers.

If we talk about the advantages of such a holiday, then this is the availability of convenient parking lots and relatively comfortable conditions in campsites. There is access to electricity, a place for tents, canteens and a landscaped area.

Keep in mind that campsites are inhabited, which is obvious, not alone, but in tourist groups. To some, this may seem like an advantage, but for someone, a disadvantage of such a holiday on Seliger.

Among the minuses is the need to pay for a place under a tent (from 150 to 400 rubles per day for one), however, such a small fee is rather charged for the convenience of living.

How to find a campsite? Just look for suitable services on local forums.

Seliger: where to stay with a tent

If you do not want to camp and prefer to pitch your own tents on the lakeside, then choose the following options. In the case when a visitor travels by car, it is best to find a tourist base or a hotel that has a decent parking lot with security. Leave the car there and look for a secluded place on the shore. Thus, the car will not become a burden, and you can rest easy. But even if necessary, you will always have the opportunity to use it.

Khachin Island

If you are interested in a truly secluded vacation as a “savage”, then most likely it will no longer be possible to travel by car. One of these places is the island of Khachin. Fans of "wild" recreation in these parts massively gather on its territory. Of course, you can’t drive there by car, so you need to leave it at the parking lot of the tourist base. It is best to get to Svetlitsa (village), where there are several such complexes. Already from there it is possible to rent a boat, on which you can get to Khachin. On the island, you can choose a free place for a tent. But keep in mind that in the summer most of the convenient sites will be occupied.

Rest on the lakes of the savage

Is it possible to rest on Seliger with a savage tent? Of course, you can do without hotels and parking lots. Just find a suitable site and set up your tent. Thus, you will get rid of the need to pay for anything other than what you really need or want, such as food and entertainment. But if vacationers choose this option, then it is still recommended to find a site in relative proximity to tourist bases. So you get convenient access and the benefits of using local infrastructure, and even more comfortable places for tents. Simply put, there is a more ennobled area and convenient landmarks for travelers.

How to find a secluded place?

Rest on Seliger with a tent still has one contradictory drawback. The most comfortable places can be occupied by both tourists and be owned or serviced by nearby hotels and camp sites. Therefore, you risk not getting a long-awaited secluded vacation.

The way out of this situation may be as follows: look for more inaccessible areas on the lakeshore, communicate with the locals and spend a certain amount of time searching for those on the Internet.

If you decide that the presence of neighbors is not a problem for you, then this issue is removed. But if it presents difficulties for you, then think about its solution.

Seliger is a whole lake complex. Among them are Sig, Peno and Volgo, etc. On those lakes that are not central, there are always fewer vacationers, and sometimes there are practically no people at all. Therefore, in remote areas of the coast, the likelihood of being alone with nature is much higher.