Ferrara, Italy. Parks and gardens. Modern Renaissance city

Ferrara (Italy) - the most detailed information about the city with photos. The main attractions of Ferrara with descriptions, guides and maps.

City of Ferrara (Italy)

Ferrara is a city in northeastern Italy in the Emilia-Romagna region, the capital of the province of the same name. It is located on the territory of a large plain in the valley of the Po River, 50 km from the sea. Ferrara - magnificent city art and one of the capital of the Renaissance, the historical center of which is included in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Ferrara is an excellent place for those who want to deviate a little from the traditional tourist route of Venice - Florence - Rome and get in touch with the culture and traditions of Northern Italy. Here among the winding medieval streets hidden masterpieces of art, architecture and culture. The brightest page in the history of Ferrara is associated with the Dukes d’Este, who ruled the city for 3 centuries.

Ferrara is an interesting example of urban planning, in which half the city is medieval and the other part is Renaissance. At the same time, all this is successfully combined and intersected. At that time, Ferrara was considered the most modern city in Italy. The best time to visit this wonderful place is in spring and autumn.

Geography and climate

Ferrara is located on the Padan plain in the valley of the Po River. In the north it borders with the Veneto region, in the south with Bologna. The city is located in a swampy area. Summer is hot and stuffy. Winter and autumn are cool and rainy. During the cold season, fog is common in Ferrara.

Practical information

1. Population - 132.5 thousand people.
2. Area - 404.4 square kilometers.
3. Language - Italian.
4. Currency - euro.
5. Visa - Schengen.
6. Time - Central European UTC +1 in summer +2.
7. Tourist office located in the Castle d'Este.
8. Ferrara is a rich Italian city. Therefore, here you can find many shops from budget fashion to expensive boutiques. The main shopping areas are via Mazzini (the street leading from Piazza Trento-Trieste) and via Garibaldi (the street leading from Palazzo Municipio), as well as the entire city center around the Castello d'Este.
9. In Ferrara, you should definitely try cappellacci di zucca (pasta with pumpkin), al burro e salvia (pasta with butter and sage), al ragu (pasta with meat sauce) and other Italian dishes.
10. In the evenings on main square going a large number of young people chatting noisily, drinking beer and cocktails.

Story

The history of Ferrara begins in the 5th century, when refugees began to settle here during the barbarian invasion. During the reign of the Lombards, a fortress was built here. In the 8th century, the Lombard king donated the city to the Pope. But already in the 10th century, Ferrara was handed over to the nobles of Tuscany.

In the 10th-13th centuries the city quickly grew and prospered, becoming one of the most important and largest cities Northern Italy is on a par with Venice, Florence and Milan.

In the 13th century, the d'Este family came to power in the city, under which Ferrara became one of the cultural and scientific centers Italy. The Estes determined the appearance of Ferrara for two centuries, and their court was one of the most beautiful and luxurious in Europe.

At the end of the 16th century, after the fall of power d'Este, Ferrara lost its independence and became part of the Papal State. After the Napoleonic wars, the city was occupied by the Austrians. And in 1860 it became part of Italy.

Attractions

The main attractions of Ferrara are located in the old town, which is included in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The historical center has largely retained its medieval appearance and Renaissance-style layout. All the most famous architectural and cultural monuments of Ferrara bear the stamp of the d'Este family.

Castello Estense (Este Castle) is one of the main symbols of Ferrara. This mighty stronghold was built in the 14th century on the site of a small fortress. The reason for construction was a citizen uprising. The castle stands out with its impressive proportions, towers, drawbridges and moat.

Subsequently, his protective role was transformed into a representative one. The castle thus became a magnificent ducal residence and was decorated with roof terraces at the top of the towers, marble balconies, a Renaissance courtyard (at that time entirely frescoed) and luxurious apartments. At the four corners of the castle stand out the imposing towers, symbols of the power of the d'Este family.

Most of the most popular attractions are located in the Centro Storico, which, of course, is not at all surprising. In the Middle Ages, the old city was surrounded by fortress walls. Ferrara's central square is Piazza Trento e Trieste, with the castle at one end and the cathedral at the other.

The square is car-free and often filled with market stalls. The main centers of power were located here: the ducal palace of the lords of Este; the Palace of the Bishops and the Palazzo della Ragione - the seat of civil authorities.

Cathedral of St. George - Cathedral with a beautiful facade. Its appearance is a peculiar evolution of architecture from the Romanesque lower tier, built in the early 12th century, up to the beautiful early Gothic loggia of the 16th century. Nearby there is an impressive bell tower with pink and white marble in the Renaissance style. The side that faces Piazza Trento and Trieste is an arcade with small shops and is called the merchants' loggia. Above the central loggia there is a sculpture of the Last Judgment carved in stone.

One of the highlights of Ferrara is its architecture and layout, which is frozen between the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. To get a feel for the past, just take a walk along the long Via delle Volte or other ancient streets of the old town. There are old cobblestones under your feet, and above your head there are passages between buildings that form a series of arched tunnels. Delle Volte, unlike many of these picturesque medieval streets, is not oversaturated with shops and other tourist attractions.

The eight kilometers of brick walls surrounding Ferrara's historic center are among the oldest and most advanced medieval and Renaissance defensive systems in Italy. Here you can look at all the elements that cities in the past used for their defense: moats, city gates, bastions, towers and shelters for archers. Now this is a great place for a walk.

The Archaeological Museum is located in the historic Palazzo di Ludovico il Moro, commissioned by Antonio Costabili. This is a beautiful 15th-century Renaissance palace with a courtyard and frescoes. The museum's magnificent collections mainly contain artifacts from the Greco-Etruscan and late Roman periods.

The Abbey of Pomposa is a masterpiece of Romanesque art with a beautiful high bell tower. The church was founded in the 6th century and since the mid-9th century there has been a community of Benedictine monks. The abbot's spiritual and political jurisdiction extended to all surrounding villages. The monastery had one of the most extensive libraries of that time.

The city of Ferrara in Northern Italy is the recognized capital of the Renaissance. His name is included in the UNESCO treasure lists. And not only thanks to the sights, which are unique in significance and beauty. Among its advantages are positions that distinguish it from many other objects included in famous list. Such as the names of Petrarch, Titian, Tasso, Paracelsus, Copernicus, who lived in it. As the title of the greenest city in Europe due to the number and landscape value of its parks. Even the urban development project dating back to the Renaissance is unique. Among the attractions are beautiful palaces and castles filled with masterpieces by famous masters. Such as Castello Estense, Diamond, Schifanoia and others.

“Aristocratic”, “refined” are the first associative characteristics that arise among city guests. This pattern underlies the history of Ferrara. How many northern settlements survived turbulent times of struggle for power and territory. But still he was luckier, because for three and a half centuries it was the favorite residence of the influential D’Este family.

Favorite of the D'Este family

Back in 1184, an ugly story happened, after which the d’Este family began to lay claim to the title of rulers of the city. However, intrigues, disputes, and feuds continued for three and a half centuries. This is a common thing in history. The main thing is that for Ferrara, as a future landmark of Italy, this was only beneficial.

In 1240, the citizens of the city recognized the Marquis d'Este as their master, and his family as “eternal lords.” For many years the dynasty became the mistress of Ferrara. It should be noted that many of its representatives had a political sense and cleverly used the advantageous location of the city in relations with neighbors. This led to economic prosperity. And it allowed the d’Este family to satisfy the passion for luxury. Balls, knightly tournaments, and masquerades became an everyday occurrence. All this happened on an incredible scale.

Only here was the Order of the Golden Spur created, which existed even when chivalry was becoming obsolete throughout the rest of Italy. Disputes about honor, armed tournaments, and joint reading of chivalric novels were held. In their imitation of the luxury of the Burgundian court, the d'Este family eclipsed many European ones. This was combined with disdain and even disgust towards commoners. Various forms of humiliation, punishment, torture, and execution were widely used. It’s not for nothing that those times are called the age of “enlightened debauchery.”

Still, d’Este left a positive mark on history. It was they who made the city a center of science, arts, poetry, and literature. Thus, a representative of the Nicolo III family decorated Ferrara beautiful palaces and locks, collected a collection ancient art. Leonello d'Este was not only the author of poetry, but also made the city home to many talented poets of that time. Borso d'Este provided the city with material well-being and peace. In the 14th century, the University was founded, famous for its high level of development of science and education. By the way, Copernicus and Paracelsus studied there. The Ferrara school of painting was one of the leading ones during the Renaissance.

Modern Renaissance city

Not only castles, towers, and palaces make up the sights of Ferrara. The city itself is a masterpiece. Its territory, surrounded by nine kilometers of ancient fortress walls, was built according to the classical laws of urban planning. It is equally divided into medieval and Renaissance parts, each of which represents a symbiosis of beauty, harmony and style. The brainchild of the architect Biagio Rossetti still evokes sincere admiration.

The d'Este family initially hid from external enemies, and then from the desperate people in the Ducal Palace (Palazzo Municipale castle). But then there was a riot among the townspeople, after which the family moved to Castello Estense. It was completed, strengthened, and gradually turned into an example of luxury and wealth.

Estense Castle is surrounded by a moat and four towers, called the Tower of the Marquis, St. Paul, St. Catherine and the Tower of the Lions. Behind the harsh, impregnable walls are elegant interiors, richly decorated with paintings, murals, tapestries, and sculptures. Thanks to the responsible attitude of the city administration, all Estense attractions are kept in perfect condition. There are even special devices that will protect the castle from earthquakes.

There was little room for the breadth and scope of the luxury of the d’Este family in one Estense palace, so the Palazzo Schifanoia castle was built in the eastern part of Ferrara - a magnificent structure that represents a landmark not only of the city, but of all of Italy. Like Palazzo Diamante (or Diamond Castle), the name of which reveals the architectural feature of this building - the shape of a rhombus. Now it houses the sights of the National Picture Gallery. Witness to all historical eras, the Ferrara Cathedral embodies the style of Lombard romance, popular in northern Italy at that time. This landmark is named after St. George, the patron saint of the city.

Luxury experiences for tourists

Not only visiting Castello Estenze, Schifanoia, the Cathedral, but also much more will give you a magnificent city. The Hot Air Balloon Festival excites the imagination of spectators for 10 days. The famous Palio horse race will bring vivid emotions. And after them, a colorful carnival takes place through the streets of the city. The townspeople have been keeping this tradition since 1259!

The Ferrara Under the Stars festival is gaining increasing popularity. Anyone who considers himself a talented musician takes part in it. It was attended by Goran Bregovic, Cesaria Evora, Bob Dylan, jazz player Jan Garbarek, and many other modern popular performers.

Like every city in Italy, Ferrara will provide tasty and satisfying food to its guests. In numerous trattorias, cafes, restaurants you can taste everything National dishes. There is even a Michelin-starred restaurant, an attraction that can only be visited by appointment. There are too many people willing!

This is a thriving modern shopping center near the Po River. Ferrara is located in the eastern part of the region, on the way from Padua and further to.

The first mention of a settlement with this name appeared in 757 under Pope Stephen II. The place in the valley of the Po River, not far from the confluence of the Darsena tributary, turned out to be a convenient outpost, and soon people began to flock here in search of protection from the raids of the Lombards. The favorable location of the city - at the intersection of the main routes from the Adriatic coast in the Po Valley, as well as between Romagna and the northern regions - made it the subject of constant clashes between the pope and the emperor. In Ferrara, the Guelphs, represented by the Este family, won, and in 1264 Obizzo II d'Este became the head of the Signoria.

Ruling Ferrara for three and a half centuries, representatives of this family transformed and enlarged the city. The last Duke of Ferrara from this family was Cesare d'Este. With the departure of D'Este in 1598, the capital of the duchy fell into decay.

In 1796, the city was captured by French troops and during their stay they destroyed many architectural monuments and took away bronze statues and decorations to be melted down for artillery pieces. After the expulsion of the invaders in 1815, Ferrara was again annexed to the papal dominions, and in 1860, by the will of the people, the city became part of the Kingdom of Italy.

There are few cars and motorcycles on the city streets; most citizens move along the ancient streets on bicycles. Hotels offer tourists this type of transport completely free of charge.

Ferrara weather:

Sights of Ferrara:

You can see all the sights of Ferrara in 1 day, and if you don’t go directly to all the sights, then half a day will be enough.

Cathedral of San Giorgio

The main monument of the Middle Ages remains CathedralCen Giorgio(Cattedrale di San Giorgio, XII century), dedicated to the patron saint of Ferrara, St. George. The construction of the cathedral was started by Bishop Landolfo, who announced a competition among the city nobility for the right to sponsor the construction of the cathedral. Guglielmo I degli Adelardi received this honor - his equestrian monument adorns the main (western) façade of the temple.

Master Nikolaus, an Italian architect and sculptor who worked in the 12th century, built the cathedral up to the first level of galleries - only the central nave rose above the rest.

In the 18th-19th centuries, the western facade received the exquisite decoration that we see today, but, paying tribute to Nikolaus’ talent, the Romanesque entrance he built was preserved behind the new portal.

Initially, the main thing was considered not the western entrance, but southern, facing the shopping area. It was called the Pilgrim's Gate ( Rorta dei Pellegrini), since it ended here via San Romano (via San Romano), starting from the port on the Po River. Wanderers sailing past Ferrara came to venerate St. George. Another name for the southern portal is Gate of the months(Porta dei Mesi): it is decorated with figures of people engaged in a certain activity according to the calendar.

Two-faced Janus (symbol of the Old and New Year) - January, armed horseman, probably - May (at this time they usually went on military campaigns), grape picker - September. Fragments of the southern portal have been badly damaged, and not all symbols can be deciphered.

• Cathedral of San Giorgio
• Piazza della Cattedrale
• daily 08.00–12.00, 15.00–19.00, Sun. St.

From the main facade of the cathedral corso Martiri della Liberta leads to the huge Castello Estense:

Castello Estense Castle

Previously, this place was the site of the defensive walls of the Old Town, but after the construction of the Ercole district began in 1492, the most elegant street in Ferrara was built on the site of the previous fortifications.

Construction of the castle began in 1385 after a terrible uprising caused by excessive taxes, during which the mob killed the senior adviser Tomaso da Tortona. The original plan included part of the defensive system in the north of the city - Lion Tower(Torre dei Leoni). The tower received its name back in 1248, when Azzo VII d’Este Novello defeated Emperor Frederick II himself. As a trophy, the winner brought two lions with him to the city, and ordered their symbolic images to be placed on the tower in memory of the significance of his services to the fatherland. The motto of the Este dynasty is also carved there - Semper avanti! (“Always forward!”).

Three bastions, together with the Lion Tower, formed a rectangle surrounded by two-tier walls. Initially there was a garrison in the castle, but from the 2nd half of the 15th century the castle became part of the count's residence. The Este family palace was located almost opposite and was connected to the castle by a covered passage.

Under Ercole II (1534-1559), the Palace of Justice was located in Castello. One of the towers housed prison cells. Among their prisoners were Hugo d'Este (son of Nicolo III) and Parisina Malatesta (wife of the same Nicolo III), convicted of adultery, Guido and Ferrante d'Este, accused of conspiracy against Alfonso I.

In the 16th century, construction of the castle was completed. The architect Girolamo da Carpi replaced the stone battlements with balconies and created a hanging orange garden Loggia degli Aranci, for which he ordered orange trees to be planted in holes made in the stone floor of the terrace, surrounded by a brick wall with narrow slits. They say that through them the ladies of the D’Este family spied on what was happening on the city streets. After the death of the last representative of the dynasty, the castle became the residence of the cardinals governing Ferrara on behalf of the pope. Since 1859, Castello Estense has belonged to the city authorities.

• Castello Estense
• Largo Castello, 1
• winter: Tue–Sun 09.30–17.30
• summer (1 June - 31 August): Tue–Sun 09.00–13.00 and 15.00 - 19.00
• Box office closes 45 minutes before closing.
• closed: 25 Dec, Mondays from Oct. to Feb.
• Entrance: 6 euros,
• children 12 - 18: 3 euros,
• children under 12: 1 euro.

Casa Romei

A 15-minute walk from the castle is Casa Romei(Casa Romei, XV century), the palace in which Lucrezia Borgia lived after her wedding with Duke Alfonso d'Este in 1502. The interiors have not been preserved, but in the halls you can see frescoes and sculptures from the Renaissance.

• Casa Romei
• via Savonarola, 30
• Tue–Sun 08.30–19.30

Palazzo Schifanoia

Name of Palazzo Schifanoia ( Palazzo Schifanoia) is traditionally translated roughly as “to avoid boredom” (Italian: schivar la noia).

Construction of the palazzo began in 1385 under the Marquis Alberto d'Este V. But the decisive role in the fate of the Estense ceremonial residence was played by the Marquis of Borso (1413-1471), who began work not only on the construction, but also on the decoration of the palace, attracting the most famous architects of that time - Pietro Benvenuti degli Ordini and Biagio Rossetti. He ordered the construction of the so-called Salon of the Months - the Marquis expected the Pope to award the title of Duke of Ferrara (which happened in 1471) and prepared a luxurious hall for the celebration.

The walls (540 m2) were decorated frescoes, dedicated to the 12 months of the year, and the topic is read both vertically and horizontally. The topmost strip represents the mythological cycle according to astrological treatises of that era.

At the second level, you can distinguish the symbols of the zodiac signs surrounded by triads (minor constellations). What follows are scenes from the life of Borso d’Este himself, which depict his actions different years, arranged by the months in which they occurred.

During the French occupation, the walls of the palace were whitewashed, but in 1821 the frescoes were accidentally discovered. For decades now, restoration work has been underway on the heritage, recognized as the most significant non-religious fresco cycle of the Renaissance.

• Palazzo Schifanoia
• via Scandiana, 23
• Tue-Sun. 09.00–18.00
  
• Closed: Jan 11, 6 and 11, Dec 25 and 26
• Entrance: € 6.00
• under 18 years old - free, 18 - 25 years old: € 2.00

Palazzo dei Diamanti

The only secular building in Ferrara to receive marble cladding is the Palazzo dei Diamanti ( Palazzo dei Diamanti, 1492). The name translates as “Diamond Palace” and is due to the fact that the façade of the building is decorated with 8,500 stones resembling cut diamonds. Now in the palace building there is NationalArt Gallery(Pinacoteca Nazionale), where works by artists from Ferrara from the Middle Ages to the 18th century are exhibited.

• Palazzo dei Diamanti
• Corso Ercole I d'Este, 21
• hedgehog. 9 - 19
• Entrance: 11 euros
• 6 - 18 years old, pensioners, students: 9 euros

Palio of Ferrara

The traditional Palio horse race in Ferrara was first mentioned in the code of laws of 1279. Men, women and riders on unbridled and bareback horses and donkeys took part in them. In the frescoes (15th century) of the Palazzo Schifanoia in the Salon of the Months, in the sector dedicated to April, you can see the participants of the palio, and the Duke of Borso d'Este at the head of the jury.

The race is still held annually on the last Sunday of May in Piazza Ariostea. The boys are the first to run two full circles ( Corsa dei Putti, the race is dedicated to St. Roman) and girls ( Corsa delle Putte, dedicated St. Pavel). Natives of the province of Ferrara no older than 16 years are allowed to participate. The funniest part of the holiday is the donkey races ( Corsa delle Asine, dedicated St. Maurelia). Stubborn people start whenever they want, or even don’t move at all. Until the end of the ride, the rider must not touch the ground with his feet, even if the donkey stops or suddenly lies down. It takes a lot of time and patience for the start to go according to the rules. The race is designed for 3 laps, but if after 20 minutes not a single donkey reaches the finish line, the winner is the one who has completed at least the first lap. In the last race, riders compete on thoroughbred bareback horses ( Corsa dei Cavalli, dedicated St. George). The winners are awarded the standard of the saint to whom the competition was dedicated.

Ferrara Map

I am like a magnet attracted to places associated with the Borgia surname. This period of history is very interesting, both in terms of events and in human terms. A colossal figure is Rodrigo Borgia, who dedicated his life to the goal of becoming God's vicegerent on earth, and achieved it by becoming Pope Alexander VI. He decided not only the fate of his children, but also history European countries, having begun, albeit for his own selfish purposes, the unification of Italy into a single state. The dramas that unfolded on this historical stage are breathtaking.

Therefore, when a one-day trip to Ferrara loomed ahead, I agreed without hesitation. In addition to the fact that this city is interesting because of the characters who inhabited it, it is, like an old box, filled to the brim with jewelry. This amount cultural values per square meter you will find, perhaps, only in Rome.

The city and its surroundings are of exceptional historical and material value and are under the protection of UNESCO. And for me, this is also the city where she spent most of her life, where Lucrezia Borgia, the only daughter of Pope Alexander VI (Borgia), died and was buried. Her fate is tragic, like the history of this entire family.

Preparing for the trip and choosing what to visit first in Ferrara, I realized that I would need to return there again and again. It is simply impossible to examine in one day everything that is worthy of being examined, because EVERYTHING needs to be examined there.

Going out to cathedral square(piazza Catedrale) and seeing the Cathedral (Cattedrale), the thought once again occurred to me that humanity - that is, we, if we cannot create at least a small semblance of what opened before my eyes, then we must at least to preserve this Divine beauty for those who will live after us.

This is exactly what the Ferrara people are doing now. On May 20, 2012, a strong earthquake occurred in the region near Bologna, which also affected Ferrara. And a year later, traces of this disaster are visible everywhere.

My heart sank when I took pictures in the Basilica of St. Francesco (chiesa di S. Francesco). Treacherous cracks, like deep wrinkles on a beautiful face, dot the walls. Most of the basilica is closed to the public as restoration work is underway. A small part of the altar is open from the side entrance for believers and tourists.

Here are some photos from the basilica.

Wandering around the city, you notice scaffolding everywhere and rejoice at it. Thank God, everything is gradually being restored. In the courtyard of the Estense Castle (castello Estense), an exhibition of photographs taken in different places in the region around Ferrara was dedicated to the anniversary of the earthquake, depicting a terrible picture of destruction. We can only hope that if something like this happens again, it will be in 500 years, because the last strong earthquake in Ferrara happened in 1570.

Fortunately, the cathedral was not damaged at all. Architects say the oldest buildings - the cathedral dates back to 1135 - have elasticity. A somewhat unusual term when applied to buildings.

Wander around the Ferrara Cathedral with me, rejoice in the fact that we can still admire the miraculously preserved beauty, and mentally thank the old MASTERS. People knew how to build.

The porch of the central part of the Cathedral is decorated with the Loggia of the Blessing with a statue of the Madonna and Child in her arms, episodes from the Gospel, sculptures of people and animals.

The Cathedral's bell tower was designed in 1412 by the architect Leo Baptiste Alberti, but remained unfinished. It displays the classic Roman taste of colored stone, four blocks of masonry separated by a projecting border on which rise arches standing on columns decorated with decorative elements.

WITH south side the gallery of the Trading Rows is visible with traces of two blocked ancient doors - the Stayo door and the door of the Seasons. They were laid to place shops along the wall.

The interior of the cathedral was rebuilt several times, but in the first span of the vestibule the original sculptures of the Atlanteans, two sarcophagi dating from the 5th and 6th centuries, and a vessel for holy water from the times of the Roman Empire were preserved.

Its walls are covered with gilded plaster, made at the end of the 16th century. And the inside of the dome is decorated with frescoes depicting the scene of the Last Judgment (work by Bastianino 1577-80). It reminded me of the dome of the Sistine Chapel, painted by Michelangelo.

Having paid tribute to the Cathedral, I almost ran to the Estense Castle (Castelo Estense). He is the person and business card Ferrara.

Its construction began in 1100, and included three construction periods, completely different in style and time, carried out by the owners in accordance with their needs, and gave it the appearance that we now see.

I don’t presume to say 100 percent, but, in my opinion, now this is the only castle in Italy surrounded by a defensive moat filled with water. Local residents say that monstrous carp live in it, but no matter how hard I looked, I couldn’t even see a tail, the water was too dirty.

On the site of the castle, a Watchtower was first erected, then Marquis Nicolo II rebuilt the tower into a fortress, creating a foundation and building wide bastions, which was a new word in defensive technology of that time.

Four more towers were designed, but they would be built by the Estense family, who created the Fortress as defensive structure from external enemies, on the one hand, and as a refuge for oneself for protection from one’s own subjects, who repeatedly rebelled against their rulers, on the other.

In 1385, during a civil uprising, a mob tore apart the judge of elders and tax advisor, the ruthless tax collector Duke of Marche. After this, the Duke quickly collected his belongings and moved inside the castle to live with his entire family.

The third phase of construction work was started by Erkole II in the period 1534-1559. At this time, the tower battlements of the castle will be removed, hanging balconies and thereby increasing its height, and the ancient Ponfolio canal will be covered with earth, making another, secret canal underneath it, supplying water to the defensive moat around the castle.

I walked across the drawbridge into the castle courtyard and took a photo of the view from there. Now you can imagine yourself in the place of a 15th century security guard, looking into the embrasure of a medieval fortress :)

And what an antique lead lamp with mica bindings hanging under the ceiling in the passage!

High on the inner wall is an ancient torch, bearded with age-old dust, as if forgotten by the duke's careless servants.

Wells with drinking water in the castle courtyard you have already seen in the photo above (an exhibition of photographs dedicated to the anniversary of the earthquake). And these are the covers on them. It is clear that they closed it, otherwise someone would swim across the ditch at night, sneak inside and pour poison into the well - and that would be the end of the duke and his family. What is unusual is that the lid is covered with nets; usually they are covered with heavy stone slabs. And the wells were filled with water by four underground pools that collected rainwater.

I did not inspect the exhibition of the castle, although my hands were itching to buy a ticket, because there are stunningly beautiful frescoes that decorate the Playing Hall, the Aurora Hall, the famous ducal kitchens, and there is even a prison where very famous prisoners were kept. As I was told, the exhibition is very large, you need to spend more than 4 hours on it, which I did not have. This is the number one reason to return to Ferrara.

And my goal is to find the house of Romei (casa Romei), which was visited by Lucrezia Borgia, and, located next to it, the Monastero del Corpus Domini, or the monastery of Clarisse (Monastero Clarisse), where her resting place is located.

Directly opposite the Cathedral, the hungry eye of a tourist and a terrible sweet tooth spotted a delightful display case with cakes and very cute boxes, in which the same trained eye identified something I had never seen before. Well, of course, these are local Ferrara sweets.

Whenever possible, I try to bring home something purely locally produced as a souvenir - cheese, wine. In Ferrara it is PAMPAPATO, a local chocolate sponge cake made from flour, butter, honey, almonds and nuts and other confectionery delights, covered with chocolate glaze on top, remaining soft inside, and stored for almost 4 months.

I saved a box for home, and I myself enjoyed tasting this same pampapato and another unusual cake, which is also made only in Ferrara, and only in this PASTICCERIE (pastry shop).

Do you know what is used as a cake decoration? Pasta, yes, Italian tagliatelle, dried and sprinkled with sugar. The inner layer in them consists of almonds, nuts and honey. Delicious.

The lovely lady who works at this pasticerie told me that the pastry shop has belonged to the ORSATTI family for more than 150 years, and for the fifth generation it is not only making such goodies as pampapato, but also baking bread. Look at what an unusual shape it is, this Ferrara bread...

Having learned that I write about Italy and came here specifically to write about Ferrara, they gave me a wonderful gift. Young representatives of the Orsatti family not only continue the business, but also published a book dedicated to the business that the family is engaged in. A very elegant edition, made with great love and on beautiful paper, accompanied by rare photographs. I received this book as a gift. It's called "Stories of Courageous Men."

I am pleased to include in the article a photograph of a pastry shop with a nice lady working there, and a photo of the book, and a photo of the Ferrara bread from it, since we ate ours without even having time to photograph it.

This bread, like almost all Italian bread, tastes very different from our native one. It's like paper. I declare with full responsibility: our bread is the most delicious, especially black.

I wandered through the streets of Ferrara, taking pictures of the corners I liked along the way. IN historical center With rare exceptions, any Italian city has almost no greenery. Stone, cobblestone, narrow streets, tiled roofs. But the streets of Ferrara are so narrow that you can only find cafes with tables outside in the central square. On some vias, a pedestrian needs to be very careful when two oncoming cars are passing nearby.

And here is casa Romei. What an impregnable, stern house, long and tall. It has been preserved in its original form since the 15th century. But through the forged, slightly open gates one can see a beautiful inner green courtyard with a well in the center, which bears a very proud name - the Garden of Honor.

The name of this house was inherited from the first owner, a wealthy banker, who built it in 1445. After his death, the house will be donated to the Clarisse convent. Lucrezia Borgia and her son Hippolytus II visited him. The house was completely abandoned, and only in 1952 the state bought it and brought it back to its original form.

When I saw the beautiful frescoes in the Hall of the Sibyls (Sala delle Siville) and in the Hall of the Prophets, I was glad that they had not completely perished during the years of war and desolation.

The walls of the hall are decorated with frescoes in the form of figures of twelve women located inside a rose garden, handing over a scroll with prophecies about the coming of Christ. The Sibyls represent the perfection of women, comparable to the figure of the Holy Virgin Mary. They belong to the brush of Lombard artists Andrea di Pietro and Giovanni Galeazzo and date back to the mid-16th century. They are unique.

It turned out that it was impossible to photograph the frescoes, even without a flash. That’s why I’m posting photos from the Internet, those that I managed to find.

For me everyone new town The one you manage to see is always connected with the people with whom fate brings you together. They are the ones that animate my memories. Sometimes these are meetings that you remember all your life.

So Ferrara gave me several gifts. I'm lucky :)

A sweet, slender, dark-skinned woman spoke to me in pure Italian.

Natalina Correggioni, of African mother and Italian father, works as a guide at this museum. She accompanied me around the first floor of the exhibition, telling and showing me amazing things.

An hour flew by like 5 minutes, and with great regret I left my charming and erudite companion.

I have one regret: I didn’t find any photographs of the banker’s bathtub. It’s a pity... At that time there weren’t very many people who liked to bathe, but this bath, honestly, deserves attention. A container in the floor measuring 2 by 3 meters, about 70 centimeters deep, with a hole for water drainage, was NEVER lined with marble, because Ferrara does not have its own marble. It was lined with terracotta tiles, which have not survived to this day. To my question - what if the banker couldn’t afford to bring marble and tile his own bathtub, Natalina just smiled.

The second floor of the house with enfilades of rooms and a magnificent fireplace room deserves epithets with many exclamation marks. The painting of the ceilings in one of the halls reminded me of the paintings in the Palazzo Vecchio a Firenze in Florence.

The young girl guide explained with regret that it would not be possible to even buy a book with photographs, the contract with bookstore. The money was spent on restoration after the earthquake. “We’re not as famous as other museums, it’s only been five years since we hung the sign outside. Many Italians don’t know about our existence, not to mention tourists.”

Well, it’s 15-30, time for churches to open in the afternoon. You can go to the monastery.

The Church of Corpus Christi - Clarissa Monastery is located almost next to Romea's house. Since the church belongs to an active monastery, the door to it is always closed.

Excitedly, I pressed the bell button and asked if I could tour the church. They explained to me where the entrance was, and I walked around the building on the left side, found the front door, and rang the bell again. The door opened and I went inside.

A small cozy church with magnificent paintings and sculptures on the walls, with St. Catherine flying through the air under a blue dome, would have resembled an elegant trinket of a society lady, if not for the lattice dividing the internal space of the church in two on the left in the depths, behind which I saw two friendly faces in black monastic robe.

The sisters of the monastery—one older, the other younger—invited me to look around the church, warning me not to take pictures. How upset I was. The sisters noticed this and asked what happened. I explained to them that I was writing about the Borgia family and, in particular, about Lucrezia, and I came to Ferrara only to visit the monastery.

If my camera had let me down, I probably wouldn’t have survived it.

But the photos turned out well. and you can admire the interior decoration of the Church of Corpus Christi.

This church is also associated with the name of Saint Catherine of Bologna. I will definitely tell you about it separately.

I was accompanied by my second sister, Mariagrazia, just a child, as it seemed to me at first. Clean clear eyes, kind smile...

I went into the second hall of the church and stopped at the altar of amazing work, in front of which six light ancient marble slabs lay in the floor, on the surface of which it is already difficult to make out the names and family coats of arms engraved in Latin, erased over 500 years of walking on them.

“Tomba of Lucrezia Borgia is in the top row in the middle,” said the sister’s voice. She still stood inside that part of the room that was fenced off by bars.

“We leave the monastery only to visit the doctor and to vote in the elections. I've been here for 18 years. I was 21 years old when I came here against the wishes of my parents. I play guitar and piano, and through music I came to God.”

We talked and talked with Sister Maria, and I didn’t want to leave. For a long time, I saw a truly peaceful and happy person in front of me.

There was a moment when I wanted to ask her to take a photo as a souvenir, but then I realized that this was not necessary. The words she said to me are etched into my heart, and her eyes are etched into my memory.

Now, as I write these lines, on the table in front of me lies a small book in Italian, “The Catechism of St. Catherine,” on the back cover of which, at the very bottom, is written the email address of Sister Mary in small letters. Thank God, the monastery keeps up with the times, I hope we don’t get lost.

With what peace in my soul I left the walls of the monastery. No wonder I was so drawn here.

Thanks to Lucrezia Borgia.

After 5 centuries, it was as if she extended her hand to me and led me to a place where, without expecting it, I found a new friend. Maybe my gratitude to her will be that small drop that will overflow the cup, and all her sins will be forgiven... Sins?

The article about Lucrezia Borgia will be continued in the near future.

Opening hours of the Ferrara museums discussed in the article.

Romea House Museum

Via Savonarola, 28-30 Ferrara

opening hours

Monday 8.30-14.00

Tuesday-Friday 8.30-19.30

Saturday 14.00-19.30

Sunday 8.30-14.00

Adult tickets €3.00 free for EU residents and over 65s

tel. ticket office 0532 234130

I brought a lot of photographs from Ferrara.

You can still wander through its streets, breathe this amazing air saturated with art .

1. monika

Emilia-Romagna is located in the east of the Padan Plain, in the Po delta. Around the 12th century. the river has changed its course, and now it flows 5 km north of Ferrara. All the main historical attractions of Ferrara are located compactly. The city is surrounded by green meadows, through which a network of bicycle paths is laid.

KNIGHTS OF FERRARA

The Italians themselves often call Ferrara a “metaphysical city,” meaning its lucky lot in history. Ferrara also knew periods of decline, it did not escape wars and plague epidemics, but it always retained its beautiful appearance.

The first settlement on the site of Ferrara at the ford across one of the branches of the Po River in its delta - Po di Volano, according to archaeologists, arose approximately in the 4th-5th centuries, when the inhabitants of Aquileia fled to remote places Apennine Peninsula from the barbarians who destroyed the Western Roman Empire. Since 568, the inhabitants of these places voluntarily came under the rule of the geographically close and economically strong Byzantine Ravenna. To protect against the Lombards, a fortress was even built on the site of the future Ferrara, which the Lombards nevertheless took, but could not hold for long. The first written mention of a city with the name Ferrara dates back to 753, it is contained in a report on the transfer of lands in the Po Delta to the rule of Pope Stephen II, after they were conquered from the Lombards by the Frankish king Pepin the Short.

There are several legends about the origin of the city's name. According to the most ancient of them, the builders of the city decided to name it in honor of Ferrara (or Frara) - the charming daughter of Marco, the most skillful and knowledgeable builder of the city. According to another version, the name comes from the Latin word “ferrum” - “iron”; here, on the banks of the Po, the hammers of blacksmiths have actually been knocking since ancient times. According to the third, from the durum wheat variety “farro”, it grows well in these places. According to the fourth, from the aquatic plant “farraria”, it grows abundantly in the Po Delta. In the chronicles of the Middle Ages there is information about fairs held in the Padan Valley twice a year, called “Feriarum Area”. "Feriarum" in Latin means "vacation", and this concept, in general, for the peasant is synonymous with the time of fairs. Then in spoken language these two words merged into one - “Ferrara”. Among these versions, historians have not chosen the only “correct” one. Perhaps because between all versions one can find connections, although implicit, but all in one way or another characterizing this particular place where this particular city arose.

The heavenly patron of Ferrara, Saint George, was, as you know, a knight who defeated the dragon. And in this city there was a merging of the symbol, spirit and real deeds of the city’s rulers. The Ducal House of d'Este, an ancient aristocratic Italian family, ruled Ferrara from 1268 to 1598. Anything happened in the history of the reign of this house, and in terms of their personal qualities the d'Este were, naturally, different people. But they intrigued in the struggle for power and they fought no less than other high-born persons of Italy. Representatives of almost all generations of this noble family had one more worthy feature in common - they were all adherents of the ideas of enlightenment, generous patrons of science and art. And all the time that the Dukes d'Este were in power, they all tirelessly cared about the prosperity and splendor of Ferrara. In 1391, one of the first universities in Europe opened in Ferrara. Its graduates were the physicist Amato Lusitano, mathematician, writer and philosopher Celio Calcagnini, astronomer Domenico Maria Novara and his great student Nicolaus Copernicus, alchemist and physician Paracelsus, Girolamo Savonarola and many other outstanding scientists and thinkers.Famous poets and artists worked at the court of the Dukes of Ferrara: Ludovico Ariosto, Torquato Tasso, Andrea Mantegna and Titian, Giovanni Pico della Mirandola and Pietro Bembo In the middle of the 15th century, the famous Ferrara school of painting took shape (Cosimo Tura, Ercole de Roberti, Francesco del Cossa and others), which was characterized by symbolic images (especially in frescoes), complex techniques in the transmission of light and prospects.In the XV-XVI centuries Ferrara gained a well-deserved reputation as one of intellectual centers countries.

"ERCOLE EXPANSION"

Ferrara also has a reputation as “the first modern city in Europe”. In this case, this means its rational layout, which received not only in the history of the city, but also more broadly in the history of world urban planning the name “Ercole expansion.”

This term arose on behalf of Duke Ercole I d’Este (1431-1505), who entrusted the creation of “ ideal city» to the outstanding architect of his time, Biagio Rossetti (1447 - ca. 1516), with the task of doubling its area as a result of expansion to the north, maximum improvement and decoration. It is to these two people that Ferrara owes most of all that the city is now included in the UNESCO World Heritage List (since 1995). Rossetti was a brave and decisive man, but he always acted deliberately.

Before you start creating new plan Ferrara, he carefully studied its old part and managed, taking into account all the subtleties and nuances of the existing architectural heritage, to find a harmonious balance between the existing by the 15th century. medieval structure and buildings of the latest architecture for that time, as well as old ones significantly rebuilt according to the canons of the Italian Renaissance. Moreover, if something was demolished, it was only in cases of extreme necessity and taking into account practical benefit from such actions. New straight and wide streets were laid, oriented relative to the old Roman roads. They were framed by a network of narrow streets and dead ends, and the ancient cramped quarters through gradual expansions opened onto spacious, bright squares and green corners. And no one could blame Rossetti for violating the laws of perspective or encroaching on the creations of his predecessor architects. As a result of his work, two important city highways appeared in the new part of the city - Corso Ercole d'Este, running from south to north, and from west to east there was an even wider street, now divided into several streets. These highways intersect at an intersection Angels, facing three palazzos: Turchi di Bagno, Prosperi Sacrati and Palazzo di Diamante (Diamond Palace).

And so it happened in Ferrara that, surprisingly organically, without leaving the impression of eclectic dissonance, the Romanesque style, Gothic and Renaissance coexist, often in the same building. And on another, larger scale, historical Ferrara is practically two cities: medieval and Renaissance, that is Old city and the “Ercole expansion,” plus, of course, New Age and modern buildings. Along with the castle of the Dukes of Este, Castellano Estenze, located in the Old Town, majestic, but also a little fabulous in its appearance. Another landmark of Ferrara, equal in fame to the castle, is the Diamond Palace, so named due to the marble cladding of the walls in the shape of repeating diamond faces. This autograph Rossetti is far from the only one in Ferrara. The city is included in the list of the most aesthetically integral Italian museum cities, coupled with its museum collections, usually housed in the interiors of the palazzo. And here is how the Russian art critic Pavel Muratov (1881-1950) wrote about Palazzo Schifanoia gg.) in his book "Images of Italy": "If only one palace of Schifanoia had survived from the entire former city, then even then the Dukes of Ferrara would have deserved acquittal at the strictest court of history. On the walls of Schifanoia frescoes have been preserved, which in many respects are nothing equal neither in Lombardy, nor in Umbria, nor even in Tuscany.”

Modern Ferrara is a major transport hub in Northern Italy. As for its atmosphere, the city is friendly and artistic. Among the series of festivals, carnivals and other celebrations that take place here, the Street Art Festival and Ferrara Under the Stars, musical concerts and performances starting late in the evening, have become world famous.

SIGHTS OF FERRARA

■ Vaults pedestrian street, sections VII-XI and XII-XIV centuries.

■ Castellano (castle) Estenze, or San Michele (XV century).

■ Fortress wall (XII-XVI centuries).

Religious buildings:

■ Basilica of St. George outside the wall (founded in 647).

■ monastery of St. Anthony (XIII century).

■ Cathedral dedicated to St. George (Duomo di Ferrara, XII-XIV centuries).

■ churches - San Romano (XV century), now the Duomo Museum, Our Lady of the Ford (founded in 971, main building - XV century), Our Lady of Consolation (founded in the XII century, building - XVI century) , Archangel Michael (XV century), San Francesco (XVI century), San Christopher Carthusian monastery (XV-XVIII centuries) and others.

■ Synagogue (XVII-XVIII centuries).

■ Palazzo dei Diamanti, or Ludovico il Moro, - Diamond Palace (XIII-XV centuries).

■ Palazzo Municipio (XVI-XVIII centuries, early 20th century façade in neo-Gothic style).

■ Palazzo Paradiso (XIV century).

■ Palazzo Schifanoia (XI-XV centuries), city museum, national Pinakothek.

■ Palazzo Costabili (XV century), National Archaeological Museum of Ferrara.

■ Palazzo Turchi da Bagno (XV century),

■ Museum of Paleontology and Prehistory.

■ Palazzetta Marfisa d’Este (XVI century), collection of art and antiques, sculpture, painting and furniture from the 16th-18th centuries.

■ Palazzo Prosperi-Sacrati (XVI century), museum exhibitions.

■ Palazzo Massari (XVI century), Giovanni Boldini Museum, City Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art Filippo de Pisis, Museum of 19th Century Art.

■ House of Romea (XV century), Museum of painting and sculpture from various churches and palaces of Ferrara, destroyed at different times.

■ House of Ariosto (XVI century), Museum of the famous Italian poet Ludovico Ariosto.

Other museums:

■ Jewish Museum.

■ Museum of Natural History.

■ Museum of Antique Furniture.

Parks and gardens:

■ Massari.

■ Pareschi.

■ Bassani.

■ Botanical garden.

■ Ferrara is one of the few cities whose heating system uses local geothermal springs.

■ Ferrara and Venice fought among themselves more than once, despite the fact that they generally maintained good relations with each other, War of 1482-1484. between them remained in history under the common name “War over Salt.” Venice, which had a monopoly on salt production, categorically did not like the fact that it was encroached upon by Duke Ercole I d’Este, who built saltworks at the mouth of the Po. Peace was concluded on August 7, 1484 on terms that satisfied both sides.

■ The Church of Our Lady of the Ford in Ferrara is an object of pilgrimage. According to local legend, here in 1171, on Easter Day, a “Eucharistic miracle” happened during the cutting of the host - an unleavened wheat cake, an analogue of the Orthodox prosphora, a thick scarlet liquid splashed out of it, and several drops of it fell on the vault above the altar. Of course, these drops were considered to be the blood of Christ, into which red wine is transformed during the rite of the Eucharist.

■ Ferrara is the hometown of the famous Italian film director Michelangelo Antonioni (1912-2007), and he is buried here. The foggy landscapes of Ferrara decorate his elegiacally poignant film, consisting of four short stories about love, “Beyond the Clouds” (1995).

■ The Palio of Ferrara is a running competition and a donkey and horse race, and in the latter, the victory of the animal is not so much important as the rider, since the rider is not in the saddle and may well drop out of the competition long before the finish. The history of the holiday dates back to 1259, when the victory of Azzo VII d'Este over the city of Cassano d'Adda was celebrated. The Palio is the standard for which competitors compete.

In 1279, the date of the race was associated with St. George's Day, April 23, and the Day of the Assumption of the Virgin, August 15. In 1600, the Pope replaced this riot of passions with decorous processions, but in 1933 the tradition was resumed. The Palio is currently held in May. On the first Sunday of the month, competitions for children's and youth teams are organized. The Palio culminates on the last Sunday in May with adult races and horse races. The most fun part of the Ferrara Palio is, naturally, the donkey races, which stop every now and then, apparently perplexed at how strange people are behaving...

GENERAL INFORMATION

City-commune and administrative center in the province of the same name in the region of Emilia-Romagna, Italy. UNESCO World Heritage Site.

First written mention as a city: 753, before that it was known as the village of Borgo di San Giorgio.
Administrative division: 4 districts.
Language: Italian plus the local so-called East Emilian dialect.
Currency unit: euro.
Ethnic composition: 82% - Italians, immigrants - 8% (people from Eastern Europe, Africa and from). Religions: Catholicism -79%, other Christian denominations - 3%, Judaism - 2%, Islam and other religions.
River: Po di Volano (Po branch).
Channels: di Burana, Botticelli.
Immediate international airports: Marco Polo (Venice), Guillermo Marconi (Bologna). In Ferrara - Michele Allasia Airport for domestic flights.

NUMBERS

Area: 405.16 km2.
Population: 133,959 people (2014).
Population density: 330.6 people/km2.
The most high point: 9 meters above sea level.

CLIMATE

Temperate continental.
Average January temperature: +3°C.
Average July temperature: +24°C.
Average annual precipitation: 652 mm.
In spring and autumn, dense fogs are common in the city.

ECONOMY

Industry: petrochemical, engineering, glass, clothing, footwear, food (especially flour milling and sugar), production of semi-finished aluminum products. The economic structure of the city is dominated by medium and small businesses.

Service sector: banking and transport services, trade, tourism.