In which ocean is the island of the new earth. New land (in Belarusian). Disposal of radioactive waste

According to many geologists: Vaigach Island and Novaya Zemlya - are an ancient ridge -! Indeed, together they represent, albeit a curved, but solid line, which and.
On ancient maps (for example, by Mercator, which will be indicated in the article), Novaya Zemlya was a single island, and even a peninsula, which was connected to the continent in the area of the Yugorsky Peninsula, that is Ural mountains in ancient times they went in a continuous chain far to the Arctic. Legends about Hyperborea also take place here, because this ancient ridge continues north of Novaya Zemlya along the bottom of the Arctic Ocean, that is, geologically - the Urals turn out to be longer, at least another thousand kilometers!
What lands were here before the onset of cooling and the rise of the ocean - this is a question for modern scientists!

And for ordinary people - Novaya Zemlya is known, first of all, for testing the most destructive hydrogen bomb in the history of mankind, or as it is called - the Tsar Bomba! The power of the bomb was more than 60 megatons, which is about 30 thousand bombs dropped on Hiroshima! A terrible force, a well of the abyss, but life has shown that those countries that do not have nuclear weapons cannot, in principle, have an independent and independent policy! The nuclear shield is one of the few allies of Russia, it is worth sawing or disposing of the last nuclear charge or delivery vehicle, as we will actually find out - what Western democracy is worth!

The shock wave circled the globe several times! And the surface of the landfill melted and swept clean. Test details will be below.

Novaya Zemlya from the satellite, the Matochkin Shar Strait is visible

GENERAL INFORMATION
Novaya Zemlya is an archipelago in the Arctic Ocean and; part of the Arkhangelsk region of Russia in the rank of the municipality "Novaya Zemlya".
The archipelago consists of two large islands - the North and the South, separated by a narrow strait (2-3 km) Matochkin Shar and many relatively small islands, the largest of which is Mezhdsharsky. The northeastern tip of the North Island - Cape Flissing - is the most eastern point Europe.

It stretches from the southwest to the northeast for 925 km. The northernmost point of Novaya Zemlya east island the Greater Orange Islands, the southernmost - the Pynina Islands of the Petukhov Archipelago, the western - an unnamed cape on the Gusinaya Zemlya Peninsula of the South Island, the eastern - Cape Flissingsky of the Severny Islands. The area of all the islands is more than 83 thousand km²; the width of the North Island is up to 123 km,
South - up to 143 km.

In the south, a strait (50 km wide) separates from Vaigach Island.

The climate is arctic and harsh. Winter is long and cold, strong winds(the speed of katabatic (katabatic) winds reaches 40-50 m/s) and blizzards, in connection with which Novaya Zemlya is sometimes called the “Land of Winds” in the literature. Frosts reach -40 °C.
The average temperature of the warmest month - August - is from 2.5 ° C in the north to 6.5 ° C in the south. In winter, the difference reaches 4.6°. The difference in temperature conditions and exceeds 5 °. Such a temperature asymmetry is due to the difference in the ice regime of these seas. There are many small lakes on the archipelago itself; under the rays of the sun, the water temperature in the southern regions can reach 18 ° C.

About half of the area of the North Island is occupied by glaciers. On the territory of about 20,000 km² there is a continuous ice cover, extending almost 400 km in length and up to 70-75 km in width. The thickness of the ice is over 300 m. In a number of places, the ice descends into the fjords or breaks off into the open sea, forming ice barriers and giving rise to icebergs. The total glaciation area of Novaya Zemlya is 29,767 km², of which about 92% is ice cover and 7.9% is mountain glaciers. On south island- areas of the arctic tundra.

cruiser Peter the Great near Novaya Zemlya

Minerals
On the archipelago, primarily on the South Island, deposits of minerals are known, mainly ores of ferrous and non-ferrous metals. The most significant is the Rogachevsko-Taininsky manganese-ore region, according to forecast estimates, the largest in Russia.
Manganese ores are carbonate and oxide. Carbonate ores, with an average manganese content of 8-15%, are distributed over an area of about 800 km², the predicted resources of the P2 category are 260 million tons. Oxide ores, with a manganese content of 16-24 to 45%, are concentrated mainly in the north of the region — in the Severo-Taininsky ore field, the predicted P2 resources are 5 million tons. According to the results of technological tests, the ores are suitable for obtaining metallurgical concentrate. All deposits of oxide ores can be mined in an open way.

Several ore fields have been discovered (Pavlovskoye, Severnoye, Perevalnoye) with deposits of polymetallic ores. The Pavlovskoye deposit, located within the ore field of the same name, is so far the only deposit on Novaya Zemlya for which balance reserves have been approved. The balance reserves of lead and zinc in categories C1 + C2 are more than 2.4 million tons, and the forecast resources of category P1 are 7 million tons (approved by the Ministry of Natural Resources of Russia on 01.01.2003).
The content of lead in ores varies from 1.0 to 2.9%, zinc - from 1.6 to 20.8%. The predicted resources of the Pavlovsky ore field of P2 category in total for lead and zinc are 12 million tons (approved by the Ministry of Natural Resources of Russia on 01.01.2003). In addition, silver reserves are estimated as associated. The development of the deposit is possible by an open method.

The remaining ore fields have been studied much less. It is known that the Northern ore field, in addition to lead and zinc, contains as associated components silver (content - 100-200 g/t), gallium (0.1-0.2%), indium, germanium, yttrium, ytterbium, niobium .

In the South Island, occurrences of native copper and cuprous sandstones are known.

All known ore fields require additional study, which is difficult natural conditions, insufficient economic development and the special status of the archipelago.

In the waters of the seas surrounding the archipelago, a number of geological structures have been identified that are promising for the search for oil and gas fields. The Shtokman gas condensate field, the largest on the Russian shelf, is located 300 km from the coast of Novaya Zemlya.

Story
In ancient times, Novaya Zemlya was inhabited by an unknown tribe, possibly belonging to the Ust-Polui archaeological culture. It is possible that in the mythology of the Samoyeds (Nenets) it was known under the name Sirtya.

Presumably Novaya Zemlya was discovered in the 12th-13th centuries by Novgorod merchants, but there is no convincing historical and documentary evidence of this. Failed to prove the primacy in the discovery of the archipelago and the ancient Scandinavians.

From Western Europeans the first to visit the archipelago in 1553 was the English navigator Hugh Willoughby, who, by decree of King Edward VI (1547-1553), led an expedition of the London "Moscow Company" to "find the Northwest Passage" and establish relations with the Russian state.
On the map of the Flemish scientist Gerard Mercator in 1595, Novaya Zemlya still looks like a single island or even a peninsula.

The Dutch traveler Willem Barents rounded the northern tip of Novaya Zemlya in 1596 and wintered on the east coast of the Severny Island in the Ice Harbor area (1597). In 1871 the Norwegian polar expedition Elling Carlsen, a preserved Barents hut was discovered in this place, in which dishes, coins, wall clocks, weapons, navigational tools were found, as well as a written report on wintering, hidden in a chimney.

In 1671, the essay “Journey to the Nordic Countries” was published in Paris, the author of which, a nobleman from Lorraine Pierre-Martin de la Martiniere, visited Novaya Zemlya in 1653 on a ship of Danish merchants. Having descended to the shore of the South Island in three boats, the Danish sailors and Martinier met Samoyed hunters armed with bows who worshiped wooden idols.

The famous Dutch naturalist Nikolaas Witsen, in his book Northern and Eastern Tataria (1692), the first scientific work in Western Europe on Siberia and the Russian North, reports that Peter the Great intended to build a military fort on Novaya Zemlya.

The first Russian explorer of Novaya Zemlya is the navigator Fyodor Rozmyslov (1768-1769).

Until the 19th century, Novaya Zemlya was actually an uninhabited archipelago, near which Pomors and Norwegians fished and hunted. Neither one nor the other could settle and live on the islands, and Novaya Zemlya remained only a transit point. From time to time there were minor diplomatic conflicts in which Russian empire invariably stated that "The Novaya Zemlya Archipelago is in its entirety a Russian territory."

Since those who claimed it could not live on the archipelago, several Nenets families were transferred to Novaya Zemlya. More active settlement of the islands began in 1869. In 1877, the settlement Small Karmakuly appeared on the South Island. In the 1980s, Novaya Zemlya already had a small colony.

Belushya Guba Novaya Zemlya

In 1901, the famous polar artist Alexander Borisov arrived in Novaya Zemlya, where he met and took the young Nenets Tyko Vylka as his guide. During the 400-kilometer trip around Novaya Zemlya on dogs, Borisov constantly made sketches. Noticing the talent of a young Nenets who became interested in painting, Borisov taught Tyko Vylka how to paint. When the artist and writer Stepan Pisakhov was exiled to Novaya Zemlya in 1903, he also noted Vylka's talent by giving him paints and pencils.

In 1909, the polar explorer Vladimir Rusanov came to Novaya Zemlya, who, together with Tyko Vylka and Grigory Pospelov, explored the entire archipelago and compiled its exact cartographic description.

In 1910, the Olginsky settlement was organized on Severny Island in the Krestovaya Bay, which at that time became the northernmost (74 ° 08′ N) settlement of the Russian Empire.

The Novaya Zemlya expedition of 1911, exploring the South Island, came across an extinct settlement of Russian industrialists, the existence of which was not known until that time. Located on the Black Nose in a bay without a name, nowhere marked on the maps, the village was a sad sight: human skulls, skeletons, bones scattered in all directions. The crosses standing right there, apparently in the cemetery, were completely dilapidated and decayed, the crossbars fell off, and the inscriptions on them were erased. In total, the expedition counted the remains of about 13 people here. Three more dilapidated crosses rose in the distance.

Novaya Zemlya polar plane - 30s of the last century

Cape Flissing is the easternmost insular point of Europe. It is located in the northeast of the Severny Island of the Novaya Zemlya archipelago, Arkhangelsk region, Russia.

It is a rocky massif up to 28 meters high, strongly protruding into the sea. Divides coastal waters into Emergency Bay (in the north) and Andromeda Bay (in the south).
A little south of the cape The Andromeda River flows into the sea, beyond which there is Cape Burunny. To the north, along the coast, there is a relatively large river Ovrazhistaya. Further along the coast is Cape Dever, which limits the Gulf of Emergency from the north.
The cape was discovered and mapped by the expedition of Willem Barents in 1596, the name was given in honor of the Dutch city of Vlissingen. Southwest of the cape in September 1596, the ship of the expedition froze into ice - its participants had to spend the winter on the shore, building a hut from the so-called. "fin" (wood thrown out by the sea). They earned their livelihood, in particular, by hunting polar bears and seals. The following year, from fragments of the ship's hull, which continued to remain in ice captivity, they built two boats and set off on the return journey. During this return, Barents died of scurvy.
This story became the basis for the plot of the Dutch feature film "New Earth", the script of which is based on the memoirs of one of the members of the Barents team, a wintering participant Gerrit de Veer.

settlement Rogachevo Novaya Zemlya

Population
In administrative terms, the archipelago is a separate municipality of the Arkhangelsk region. It has the status of ZATO (closed administrative-territorial entity). A special pass is required to enter Novaya Zemlya. Until the beginning of the 90s. the very existence of settlements on Novaya Zemlya was a state secret. The postal address of the village of Belushya Guba was "Arkhangelsk-55", the village of Rogachevo and the "points" located on the South Island and the south of the North Island - "Arkhangelsk-56", the "points" located in the north of the North Island and Franz Josef Land - " Krasnoyarsk region, island Dixon-2 "(communication with them through Dixon was maintained). In the administrative center - the urban-type settlement of Belushya Guba, located on the South Island - 2149 people live (2013). The second settlement on Novaya Zemlya that currently exists is the village of Rogachevo (457 people), 12 km from Belushya Guba. There is a military airfield - Amderma-2. 350 km to the north on the southern coast of the Matochkin Shar Strait is the village of Severny (without a permanent population), a base for underground testing, mining, construction and installation works. There are currently no settlements on the North Island.
The indigenous population - the Nenets were completely evicted from the islands in the 1950s, when a military training ground was created. The population of the settlements is mainly made up of soldiers and builders.
According to the results of the 2010 All-Russian Population Census, the population of Novaya Zemlya is 2429 people and is concentrated in only two settlements - Belushya Guba and Rogachevo.

Kara Gate Novaya Zemlya

Flora and fauna
The ecosystems of Novaya Zemlya are usually referred to as biomes of the Arctic deserts (Northern Island) and the Arctic tundra.
The main role in the formation of phytocenoses belongs to mosses and lichens. The latter are represented by species of cladonia, the height of which does not exceed 3–4 cm.

Arctic herbaceous annuals also play a significant role. Creeping species, such as creeping willow (Salix polaris), opposite-leaved saxifrage (Saxifraga oppositifolia), mountain lichen and others, are characteristic of the scarce flora of the islands. The vegetation in the southern part is mostly dwarf birches, moss and low grass, in areas near rivers, lakes and bays a lot of mushrooms grow: milk mushrooms, mushrooms, etc.

The largest lake is Gusinoe. It is home to freshwater fish, in particular arctic char. Of the animals, arctic foxes, lemmings, white partridges, and also reindeer are common. The polar bears are coming in southern regions with the onset of cold weather, being a threat to local residents. Marine animals include harp seals, seals, bearded seals, walruses, and whales.
On the islands of the archipelago you can find the largest bird colonies in the Russian region of the Arctic. Guillemots, puffins, seagulls settle here.

nuclear test site
The first underwater nuclear explosion in the USSR and the first nuclear explosion on Novaya Zemlya on September 21, 1955. Testing of the T-5 torpedo with a capacity of 3.5 kilotons at a depth of 12 m (Chernaya Bay).
On September 17, 1954, a Soviet nuclear test site was opened on Novaya Zemlya with a center in Belushya Guba. The polygon includes three sites:
Black Lip - used mainly in 1955-1962.
Matochkin Shar - underground tests in 1964-1990.
D-II SIPNZ on the Dry Nose Peninsula - ground tests in 1957-1962.
In addition, explosions were also carried out at other points (the official territory of the test site occupied more than half of the entire area of the island). New Earth

From September 21, 1955 to October 24, 1990 (the official date of the moratorium on nuclear testing), 135 nuclear explosions were carried out at the test site: 87 in the atmosphere (of which 84 air, 1 ground, 2 surface), 3 underwater and 42 underground. Among the experiments were very powerful megaton tests of nuclear charges, carried out in the atmosphere over the archipelago.
On Novaya Zemlya in 1961, the most powerful hydrogen bomb in the history of mankind was detonated - the 58-megaton "Tsar Bomba" at the D-II "Dry Nose" site. A perceptible seismic wave resulting from the explosion circled three times Earth, and the sound wave generated by the explosion reached Dixon Island at a distance of about 800 kilometers. However, sources do not report any destruction or damage to structures, even in the villages of Amderma and Belushya Guba located much closer (280 km) to the landfill.

In August 1963, the USSR and the United States signed a treaty banning nuclear tests in three environments: the atmosphere, space and under water. Restrictions on the power of charges were also adopted. Underground explosions were carried out until 1990. In the 1990s, with the end of cold war tests have come to naught, and at present they are engaged only in research in the field of nuclear weapons systems (the Matochkin Shar facility).

Glasnost policy led to the fact that in 1988-1989 the public learned about nuclear tests at Novaya Zemlya, and in October 1990 activists from the environmental organization Greenpeace appeared here to protest against the resumption of nuclear tests on the archipelago. On October 8, 1990, at night, in the area of the Matochkin Shar Strait, the Greenpeace vessel entered the territorial waters of the USSR, and a group of anti-nuclear action activists was secretly sent ashore. After a warning salvo from the XXVI Congress of the CPSU patrol ship, the ship stopped, and Soviet border guards boarded it. Greenpeace was arrested and towed to Murmansk, then released.
However, on the eve of the 50th anniversary of the creation of the landfill at Novaya Zemlya, the head of the Russian federal agency Atomic Energy Director Alexander Rumyantsev said that Russia intends to continue to develop the test site and keep it in working condition. At the same time, Russia is not going to conduct nuclear tests on the archipelago, but intends to carry out non-nuclear experiments to ensure the reliability, combat capability and safety of storing its nuclear weapons.

Amderma Novaya Zemlya

burial radioactive waste
In addition to nuclear weapons testing, the territory of Novaya Zemlya (or rather, adjacent directly to its east coast water area) in 1957-1992 was used for the disposal of liquid and solid radioactive waste (RW). Basically, these were containers with spent nuclear fuel (and in some cases, entire reactor plants) from submarines and surface ships of the Northern Fleet of the Navy of the USSR and Russia, as well as icebreakers with nuclear power plants.

Such RW disposal sites are the bays of the archipelago: Sedov Bay, Oga Bay, Tsivolki Bay, Stepovoy Bay, Abrosimov Bay, Prosperity Bay, Currents Bay, as well as a number of points in the Novaya Zemlya depression stretching along the entire archipelago. As a result of such activities and the bays of Novaya Zemlya, many underwater potentially hazardous objects (POHOs) have been formed. Among them: the completely flooded nuclear submarine "K-27" (1981, Stepovoy Bay), the reactor compartment of the nuclear icebreaker "Lenin" (1967, Tsivolki Bay), reactor compartments and assemblies of a number of other nuclear submarines.
Since 2002, the areas where the PPO is located have been subject to annual monitoring by the Russian Emergencies Ministry. In 1992-1994, international expeditions were carried out (with the participation of specialists from Norway) to assess the degree of environmental pollution; since 2012, the activities of such expeditions have been resumed.

Cape Sedova Novaya Zemlya

DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF THE NEW EARTH
That Novaya Zemlya was known to Russians earlier than to foreigners is evidence of this by the very name "Novaya Zemlya", under which this island became known to Western peoples, and which was retained by it in all foreign atlases. Also, Russian industrialists sometimes served as guides to English and Dutch discoverers on their first voyages to the east, along the northern coasts of Russia, informing them that the coast seen in such and such a direction is “New Earth”.

Findings on its shores by the first foreign sailors of crosses and huts that fell apart from dilapidation, also proving this, at the same time testify that it has been visited by our compatriots for a long time. But the exact time when Novaya Zemlya was discovered by the Russians and in what way remains unknown, and both can only be assumed with greater or lesser probability, based on certain historical data concerning the Russian North.

One of the Slavic tribes, which has long lived near Lake Ilmen and had Veliky Novgorod as its main city, already at the dawn of its history had a desire to the north, to the White Sea, the Arctic Ocean and further to the northeast, to the Pechora and beyond the Ural Range, to the Yugorsky Territory , while gradually crowding out their indigenous inhabitants, belonging to the Finnish tribe and called by the Novgorodians with the common name "Zavolotskaya Chud".

Initially, the whole country, lying from Novgorod to the north and northeast to Ural Range, Novgorodians gave one common name "Zavolochya", since this territory was located from Novgorod behind the "portage" - a vast watershed separating the basins of the Onega, Dvina, Mezen and Pechora rivers from the Volga basin, and through this watershed, during campaigns, Novgorodians dragged ("dragged") their ships.

From the beginning of the 13th century, with the expansion of geographical information about the newly conquered country, only the lands lying between the Onega and Mezen rivers began to be called Zavolochie, while others to the northeast and east of the White Sea received separate names. So, for example, on the northern coast of the White Sea there was a volost "Tre" or "Tersky coast"; the Vychegda river basin was called the "Perm Volost"; the Pechora river basin - "Pechora volost". Beyond the Pechora and on the other side of the northern Ural ridge was the Ugra volost, which, it is believed, included the Yamal Peninsula. Part of the Zavolochye, between the Onega and Dvina rivers, was also called the "Dvina Land".

The primitive inhabitants of Zavolochye were generally separate, with a cult of idolatry, Finnish tribes - Yam, Zavolotskaya Chud, Perm, Pechora and Ugra (or Yugra):
They lived scattered, in small villages, among forests and swamps, along the banks of rivers and lakes, being engaged exclusively in hunting and fishing. Surrounded on the north by the seas, and on the south by dense forests, they were completely independent until the enterprising Novgorodians penetrated into their region.

Cape Zhelaniya - the northern tip of Novaya Zemlya

The occupation of the region by the Novgorodians was almost exclusively an act of private enterprise. Their movement here, first as conquerors - ushkuins, and then as colonizers - trading guests, went mainly along the course of the rivers, which were the only and most convenient ways of communication in this primitive region, and later the first settlements of Novgorodians were founded on them.

In the Russian chronicles there are indications that the inhabitants of Zavolochye were already tributaries of the Novgorod Slavs in the first half of the 9th century, and the Lapps (Lop) of the Kola Peninsula in the same century were their allies, who came for trade and crafts long before the Varangians were called to Rus'. But later, when the Novgorodians began to appear here as conquerors, Chud did not immediately submit to the newcomers, rebuffing them sometimes by force, sometimes paying tribute. Only since the conquest of Zavolochye by the Novgorodians did their first settlements appear along downstream Dvina, on the shores of the White Sea and the Arctic Ocean.
At the end of the 9th century, there were no Slavs at the mouth of the Dvina, since the Norwegian Viking Otar or Okhter, sent by the Anglo-Saxon king Alfred the Great to the north in order to find out how far the land extends in this direction, and in the second half of the mentioned century reached the mouth Dvina by the sea, found here the tribe of Biorms, who, in his opinion, spoke the same language with the Finns. At the same time, Okhter does not mention anything about the Slavs. Unfriendly met by the Biorms and fearful of their numbers, he did not dare to sail further up the river. The land of the Ter-Finns (Tersky coast), which he saw when sailing here by sea, was not inhabited - he saw only temporarily fishermen and hunters from the Finns who were here.

Novgorod settlements are not visible here even at the beginning of the 11th century, since in 1024 to the mouth of the Dvina, where there was a rich trading city of Chudi and where Scandinavian merchants came to trade in the summer, another Norwegian Viking, Ture Gund, who robbed this time the temple of the Chud deity Yumala. Zavolochye was known at that time to Europe under the name of Biarmia or Permia, main city which was located near the current Kholmogory.

But no more than 50 years after the destruction of the temple of Yumala by the Norwegians, the first settlements of the Novgorodians with their posadniks, who all local population more or less calmly obeys. From that time on, Chud partly merged with the newcomers, became Russified, and partly moved further to the northeast and east. At present, only the names of almost most of our northern rivers, lakes, tracts and localities of various kinds, such as Dvina, Pechora, Pinega, Kholmogory, Shenkursk, Chukhchenema, etc., remind of it.

At the beginning of the 11th century, Novgorodians also appeared on the Murmansk coast of the Arctic Ocean. This is evidenced by one Scandinavian runic letter, from which it is clear that no later than 1030, the sea bay of Lugen Fjord, not far from Tromsø, was considered the border in the north between Russia and Norway. Since it is impossible to think that the aforementioned establishment of boundaries occurred immediately after the appearance of the first Novgorodians here, it can be concluded with a greater degree of probability that they appeared here earlier, namely in the 10th century. The establishment of the border was probably caused by the already widespread activity of the newcomers. Their appearance here earlier than at the mouth of the Dvina can be explained by the fact that the Novgorodians met little resistance from the Lapps, since this semi-wild nomadic tribe did not have permanent settlements, but moved from place to place in accordance with the movement of their deer for food. Therefore, the squads of Novgorodians could meet a rebuff only from the settled Norwegians. The border was established by agreement between the Novgorod prince Yaroslav the Wise, later the Kyiv prince, with the Norwegian king Olaf Tolstoy, whose daughter Yaroslav was married to.

Without a doubt, the beginning of Russian navigation in the White Sea and the Arctic Ocean must be attributed to the time of the appearance of the Novgorodians in the Dvina Land and on the Murmansk coast. But there is no information about how far these journeys were. One must think that they were not far away, since the Novgorodians, still little familiar with the sea, had to get used to it for some time in order to embark on a distant, unknown and dangerous path. Indeed, there is reason to believe that the Novgorodians came to Murman not by sea from the Svyatoy Nos, but from Kandalaksha, between which and Kola there is only one portage, about a verst long, and it is known that the Novgorodians made their trips mainly by boat along the rivers, dragging them across the watersheds - drags.

Sunrise in the Kara Sea Novaya Zemlya

The latter assumption is confirmed by the fact that they founded Kola much earlier than the settlements on the Tersky coast of the White Sea - Ponoy, Umba and Varzuga. If the Novgorodians were going to Murman for the first time from the White Sea, then these rivers, which they could not help but notice, would also serve as the place of their first settlements. Based on the foregoing, it is unlikely that Novaya Zemlya was discovered by the Russians from this side, that is, from the side of the White Sea.

Most likely, this could have been done from the side of the Pechora or Yugorsk Territory, where the Novgorodians also penetrated early, namely in the 11th century, as indicated by the chroniclers. Like the inhabitants of Zavolochye, Yugra also submitted to the Novgorodians, but not immediately - they made repeated attempts to overthrow the yoke of the newcomers, as evidenced by the many campaigns of the conquerors here to pacify some natives:
Having contact with the inhabitants - the nomads of the Pechora and Yugorsky regions - Novgorodians could then learn and hear about Novaya Zemlya, familiar to these nomads for a long time. After all, they could penetrate there through the island of Vaygach, separated from the mainland by a narrow strait and not particularly wide from Novaya Zemlya. You can get to Vaigach in winter on the ice on reindeer, and from it Novaya Zemlya can be clearly seen in clear weather.

Whether the campaign of the Novgorodians to the Iron Gates means a campaign to the Karsky Gates, also called the Iron Gates, cannot be reliably said, since there are quite a few places with that name in the north.

Herberstein, in his memoirs of Muscovy, twice mentions some country "Engroneland", located in the Arctic Sea, beyond the Riphean and Hyperborean mountains and beyond the mouths of the Pechora and Ob, relations with which are difficult due to constantly floating ice. But is it Novaya Zemlya, mixed by Herberstein with Greenland, especially since such a mistake on his part is very possible in view of the fact that he compiled a geographical description of this part of Russia from the words of storytellers, and his personal knowledge of geography could not be particularly broad and clear? In any case, one must think that the Russians, who gave him geographical information about their country, Novaya Zemlya could not be called "Engroneland". last name he gave, forgetting her real name, reported by the Russians. And about Greenland, as an icy country and also in the ocean, he could hear in Europe.

Did the Russian discoverers of Novaya Zemlya know that it was an island and not a mainland? It can be assumed that at first it was considered the mainland, and only this can explain its name and, mainly, the presence of the word "land" in it. In the language of the northern Pomors, it means "mother coast" - the mainland. She could make such an impression on the first newcomers there or those who saw her for the first time since Vaigach. For the enterprising Novgorodians, who were irresistibly striving in their forward movement to the northeast and further, the large island that appeared before them, still unknown to them, could really seem like “land” - it was so big compared to other islands that they had seen before.

But the Novgorodians and their successors, making voyages to Novaya Zemlya, did not leave any written information about it or about their travels there. They were passed on to offspring by oral traditions and in the same way they got acquainted with her. The first printed information about Novaya Zemlya appeared only from the time it was visited by foreign navigators who sought to open the northeastern route to China and India.

Strait Matochkin Shar Novaya Zemlya

THE LIFE OF A POLAR MONK
Father Innokenty, polar explorer monk. Life on New Earth
There is a mysterious island in the Arctic Ocean - Novaya Zemlya. From Arkhangelsk it is 1200 kilometers towards the North Pole. And people live there, in relation to whom we are southerners spoiled by warmth and natural bounties. It is here, in the northernmost point of the Arkhangelsk region, that there is the northernmost Russian Orthodox church in the name of St. Nicholas, whose rector for more than 5 years has been Abbot Innokenty (Russians).
The average summer temperature there is +3, the snow melts by the end of June, exposing a moss-lichen gray-brown desert. Melt water accumulates in lakes, there are no trees at all. And in winter - endless snow, whiteness, from which, according to science, the eyes "starve". Not much is known about Novaya Zemlya: until recently, it was covered in a veil of secrecy. Nuclear test site, closed military zone. The soldiers live there with their families. There is no indigenous population: the Nenets lived here before the creation of the landfill, and then, in the 50s of the last century, they were all evicted. It is here, in the northernmost point of the Arkhangelsk region, that there is an Orthodox church in the name of St. Nicholas, the rector of which for more than 5 years has been Abbot Innokenty (Russians). "How could you volunteer to go to this northern expanse?" - ask the young clergyman. "But someone had to go!" - Father Innokenty calmly answers.
Once upon a time, at the end of the 19th century, there was a temple on Novaya Zemlya, also St. Nicholas, in which missionaries labored - monks of the Orthodox Nikolo-Karelsky Monastery. The old wooden church still exists on the banks of Belushya Bay, a kilometer from the current village. The building was assembled in Arkhangelsk and transported to this island in the Arctic Ocean. The parishioners were Nenets. More than seven years ago, the command and residents of the village of Belushya Bay asked Bishop Tikhon of Arkhangelsk and Kholmogory to send a priest. And in February 1999, Father Innokenty appeared in the military town of Belushya Guba. Due to the constant unfavorable weather, it was decided to arrange a church in the village itself, for this they allocated a large room, the first floor in a residential building - a former cafe. And the life of a parish priest flowed ...

Father Innokenty rarely visits the "mainland", mostly on study leave (the priest receives his education in absentia at a theological educational institution). According to Father Innokenty, the permanent parish of the Novaya Zemlya church is fifteen people, which is 1% of the entire population of the military camp. Mostly women. The community gathered rather quickly, and those who are can be called active and church-going parishioners. They often go to confession and take communion, gather together, observe fasts, and read spiritual literature. On many issues, they turn to the priest for advice, and problems are solved jointly. The priest himself visits military units - he is present at the oaths, conducts conversations, sanctifies the premises. Father Innokenty has many good acquaintances among the local population, mostly officers. The priest also communicates with residents on local television, and regularly delivers sermons. This is the best option for education, because, as experience has shown, a Sunday school for children cannot exist here. During the school year, on weekends, children are used to staying at home: usually the weather is very bad, and you can’t force anyone to go outside. In general, there is nowhere to go especially in the village, people get used to a sedentary lifestyle.
Father Innocent is a monk. It is more usual for a monastic to live within the walls of a monastery, among the brethren, under the direction of the abbot. Here is a completely different situation. Father Innokenty came to the Solovetsky Monastery at a fairly young age, performed his obedience in the kliros, and was tonsured a monk. Then he served in the Arkhangelsk Church of All Saints until he volunteered to go to Novaya Zemlya. Now the father lives alone, in an ordinary apartment. In order not to lose physical health at all, he goes in for sports: he goes to the gym, swimming pool, because physical activity in this climate and with a sedentary lifestyle is simply necessary. In addition, Father Innokenty is constantly studying, preparing for sessions at the theological seminary. He often conducts rehearsals with his choir (this priest loves to sing very much).

Father Innokenty realizes that he is doing an important job. Of course, life and priestly service beyond the Arctic Circle is a sacrifice, but every person must sacrifice something. The main thing is that now an Orthodox parish has appeared in that remote point, services are being held, prayers are being offered. People here are already accustomed to the church, and without it it would be hard for them. And the obedience of monk Innokenty is the work of an ordinary parish priest and missionary, on which the hardships and peculiarities of the northern island of Novaya Zemlya are superimposed.

TSAR BOMB TEST
Tsar Bomba (Big Ivan) - tests of a 50 megaton thermonuclear bomb at the Novaya Zemlya test site.
Date of explosion: October 30, 1961

Explosion coordinates:
73 degrees 50"52.93" N (Time zone "November" UTC-1) 54 degrees 29"40.91 E.

The largest hydrogen (thermonuclear) bomb is the Soviet 50-megaton "Tsar Bomba", detonated on October 30, 1961 at a test site on the island of Novaya Zemlya.
Nikita Khrushchev joked that the 100-megaton bomb was originally supposed to be detonated, but the charge was reduced so as not to break all the windows in Moscow.
There is some truth in every joke: structurally, the bomb was indeed designed for 100 megatons, and this power could be achieved by simply increasing the working fluid. It was decided to reduce the energy release for safety reasons - otherwise the landfill would suffer too much damage. The product turned out to be so large that it did not fit into the bomb bay of the Tu-95 carrier aircraft and partially stuck out of it. Despite the successful test, the bomb did not enter service; nevertheless, the creation and testing of the superbomb was of great political importance, demonstrating that the USSR had solved the problem of achieving almost any level of megatonnage of a nuclear arsenal.

Ivan is a thermonuclear device developed in the mid-1950s by a group of physicists led by Academician I.V. Kurchatov. The group included Andrei Sakharov, Viktor Adamsky, Yuri Babaev, Yuri Trunov and Yuri Smirnov.

The original version of the bomb weighing 40 tons, for obvious reasons, was rejected by the designers of OKB-156 (the developers of the Tu-95). Then the nuclear scientists promised to reduce its mass to 20 tons, and the pilots proposed a program for the corresponding modification of the Tu-16 and Tu-95. The new nuclear device, according to the tradition adopted in the USSR, received the code designation "Vanya" or "Ivan", and the Tu-95 chosen as the carrier was named Tu-95V.

The first studies on this topic began immediately after I.V. Kurchatov's negotiations with A.N. Tupolev, who appointed his deputy for weapons systems A.V. Nadashkevich as the head of the topic. The analysis carried out by the Prochnists showed that the suspension of such a large concentrated load would require major changes in the power circuit of the original aircraft, in the design of the cargo bay and in the suspension and drop devices. In the first half of 1955, the overall and weight drawing of the "Ivan" was agreed, as well as the layout drawing of its placement. As expected, the weight of the bomb was 15% of the carrier's takeoff weight, but its overall dimensions required the removal of the fuselage fuel tanks. The new beam holder BD7-95-242 (BD-242) developed for the Ivan suspension was similar in design to the BD-206, but much more powerful. It had three Der5-6 bomber locks with a carrying capacity of 9 tons each. BD-242 was attached directly to the power longitudinal beams, edging the cargo compartment. The problem of controlling the release of the bomb was also successfully solved. Electric automatics ensured exclusively synchronous opening of all three locks, which was dictated by security conditions.

On March 17, 1956, a resolution of the Council of Ministers was issued, according to which OKB-156 was to begin converting the Tu-95 into a carrier of high-power nuclear bombs. These works were carried out in Zhukovsky from May to September, when the Tu-95V was accepted by the customer and handed over for flight tests. They were conducted under the leadership of Colonel S.M. Kulikov until 1959, included the dropping of a "superbomb" model, and passed without any special remarks.

The carrier of the "superbomb" was created, but its real tests were postponed for political reasons: Khrushchev was going to the USA, and there was a pause in the Cold War. The Tu-95V was transferred to the airfield in Uzin, where it was used as a training aircraft and was no longer listed as a combat vehicle. However, in 1961, with the beginning of a new round of the Cold War, testing of the "superbomb" again became topical. On the Tu-95V, all the connectors in the reset electric automatic system were urgently replaced, the doors of the cargo compartment were removed, because. the real bomb turned out to be somewhat larger in size and weight than the mock-up and now exceeded the dimensions of the compartment (the mass of the bomb was 24 tons, the parachute system was 800 kg).

The prepared Tu-95V was transferred to the northern airfield in Vaenga. Soon, with a special white thermal protective coating and a real bomb on board, piloted by a crew led by pilot Durnovtsov, he headed for Novaya Zemlya. The test of the most powerful thermonuclear device in the world took place on October 30, 1961. The bomb exploded at an altitude of 4500 m. The plane shook, and the crew received a certain dose of radiation. The power of the explosion, according to various estimates, ranged from 75 to 120 Mgt. Khrushchev was informed about the explosion of a 100 Mgt bomb, and it was this figure that he called in his speeches.

The results of the explosion of the charge, which received the name Tsar Bomba in the West, were impressive - the nuclear "mushroom" of the explosion rose to a height of 64 kilometers (according to American observation stations), the shock wave resulting from the explosion circled the globe three times, and the electromagnetic radiation of the explosion became cause radio interference for one hour.

The creation of the Soviet super-powerful hydrogen bomb and its explosion on October 30, 1961 over Novaya Zemlya became an important stage in the history of nuclear weapons. V. B. Adamsky and Yu. N. Smirnov, who repeatedly appeared on the pages of our journal, together with A. D. Sakharov, Yu. N. Babaev and Yu. A. Trutnev were direct participants in the development of the design of this bomb. They also participated in her trial.

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SOURCE OF INFORMATION AND PHOTO:
Team Nomads
http://yaranga.su/svedenia-novaya-zemla-1/
Pasetsky V. M. The discoverers of Novaya Zemlya. — M.: Nauka, 1980. — 192 p. — (History of science and technology). — 100,000 copies.
Saks VN Quaternary deposits of Novaya Zemlya. / Geology of the USSR. - T. XXVI, Islands of the Soviet Arctic. 1947.
Robush M.S. On the Arctic Ocean. (From travel notes) // Historical Bulletin. - 1890. - T. 42. - No. 10. - S. 83-118, No. 12. - S. 671-709.
Yugarov I.S. Journal for Novaya Zemlya (climate) for 1881 and 1882 / Extracted from. and comment. M. S. Robusha // Historical Bulletin. - 1889. - T. 36. - No. 4. - S. 117-151. — Under the heading: A Year on Novaya Zemlya.
E. R. a Trautvetter. Conspectus Florae Insularum Nowaja-Semlja (lat.) // Tr. Imp. St. Petersburg. bot. garden. - 1871-1872. - V. I. - T. I. - S. 45-88. (~ 77 Mb)
Martynov V. | New Earth - military land| Newspaper "Geography" No. 09/2009
Based on the materials of "The First Russian Explorers of Novaya Zemlya", 1922, compiled by P. I. Bashmakov
http://www.pravda.ru/districts/northwest/arhangelsk/31-12-2004/49072-monah-0/
http://www.nationalsecurity.ru/maps/nuclear/004.htm
http://www.photosight.ru/
http://www.belushka-info.ru/

And the Arctic walks near Novaya Zemlya,
The Arctic is shaking.
Y. Vizbor. New Earth. 1970

The military played a leading role in the development of many remote territories of our country. Somewhere on Far North and the Far East, garrisons to this day are the main type of settlements. True, in the post-Soviet period, the number of such garrisons and the population in them have declined sharply. However, our geography textbooks still do not write anything about "military" development, even in cases where it has long been no longer a secret. This is a little surprising, since for many old-developed regions and regions of new development, parts of various law enforcement agencies perform the functions of city-forming enterprises.

Novaya Zemlya (an area of 83 thousand km 2) separates the Barents and Kara Seas. This is one of the oldest, according to the time of discovery, of the islands of the Arctic Ocean. The exact time of the discovery of the islands is unknown, most likely, it happened during the independence of Veliky Novgorod. The antiquity of the discovery of Novaya Zemlya is also evidenced by its ancient name, the Matka. Hence the name of the strait Matochkin Shar. Apparently, this name comes from the Finno-Ugric word matka - the way. Franz Josef Land was discovered at the end of the 19th century. Austro-Hungarian expedition, which set off in 1872 in search of Northeast Passage, and perhaps to reach the North Pole and in 1873 pressed by ice to the shores of a hitherto unknown land, named after the then emperor of Austria-Hungary. ZFI, as it is usually called in the North, has an area of approximately 16,000 km2 and consists of 191 islands.

The first permanent settlement on Novaya Zemlya appeared in 1877. It is called Small Karmakuly. In 1896, a hydrometeorological station was established in the Small Karmakuly, which still exists today and is the oldest polar station in Russia.

As the islands were explored, more and more bays were opened and new settlements were built. One of these settlements was the current “capital” of Novaya Zemlya, the village of Belushya Guba, founded in 1897. In addition to Belushya Guba and Small Karmakul, several more settlements were created on Novaya Zemlya before the revolution, all of them disappeared long ago.

Novaya Zemlya went through the years of the Civil War hard. Since its development before the revolution went to state funds, and their receipt in 1917-1919. ceased, the population of the islands fell into a very difficult situation.

In the 1920s, the creation of new settlements and polar stations continued. For example, on the banks of the Black Bay, the camp of Krasino is being built, the remains of which have survived to this day. In the 1930s, polar stations were built at Cape Zhelaniya, in the Russian Harbor, on the coast of Matochkin Shara (Cape Stolbovoy). At the same time, polar stations were also created at Z.F.I., in 1928 officially proclaimed part of the territory of the USSR.

In 1942, German submarines began to penetrate the shores of Novaya Zemlya and Franz Josef Land. And not only penetrate, but also defend here. On the shores of Novaya Zemlya, the Germans placed automatic hydrometeorological stations, and a polar station (Alexandra Land) was built on Franz Josef Land. The remains of this station were discovered in the 50s.

To combat the German fleet in 1942, the Novaya Zemlya Naval Base (Naval Base) was created, which had the status of a temporary one. The database included almost all existing by that time settlements and polar stations. The headquarters of the Novaya Zemlya Naval Base was located in Belushya Guba. The base was given two formations of patrol ships, several coastal defense batteries and semi-batteries, as well as anti-aircraft artillery batteries. Rogachevo airfield was built 12 km from Belushya Guba.

In July 1942, several ships of the infamous convoy PQ-17 approached Novaya Zemlya. Polar stations, ships and settlements on Novaya Zemlya were fired upon by German submarines.

In the fall of 1942, German planes bombed Belushya Guba. In the spring of 1943, I-15bis fighters were deployed at the Rogachevo airfield. The first military pilots on Novaya Zemlya lived in tents all year round. Only by visiting the islands in winter, one can appreciate the feat of these people.

In 1946, the Novaya Zemlya naval base was abolished. The ships of the Navy left the island, the guns of artillery batteries were taken out. The years of existence of the base, however, gave a powerful impetus to the development of Belushya Guba. The Rogachevo airfield provides the village with the position of the "capital of the islands". In 1947, the first Nagurskoye airfield was created on Alexandra Land, which is part of Franz Josef Land.
Belushya Guba ("Belushka").

In the 1950s, the Arctic began to be considered by the USSR and the USA as a likely theater of military operations, since the shortest route for strategic aviation between the two superpowers of that time runs through the North Pole. The newly created Air Defense Forces (Air Defense Forces of the country) are showing interest in creating positions on the Arctic islands, including Novaya Zemlya. Novaya Zemlya and Franz Josef Land are beginning to be regarded as a kind of "umbrella" covering from the north European part THE USSR.

In 1949, the first atomic explosion was carried out in the USSR at the Semipalatinsk test site. The decision to create a second, naval, test site was made in 1953. There are several reasons why Novaya Zemlya became the location for it. The paths to the islands were well known, the coast was more or less developed, wharfs and an airfield were built. However, there were vast uninhabited territories here.

In 1954, work began on the creation of a landfill. The Chernaya Bay was chosen as the first place for testing atomic weapons, where on September 21, 1955, an underwater atomic explosion was carried out. In 1957, the only ground explosion on Novaya Zemlya was carried out here. In the 80s, the shores of the Black Bay were littered with armored vehicles - tanks, infantry fighting vehicles, armored personnel carriers, on which, apparently, the effects of atomic explosions were tested. The test village is being built near the Black Bay, in the Bashmachnaya Bay. The territory between the Black and Shoe lips is built up with various kinds of structures, the purpose of which is not always possible to guess. But their number, and often their size, is amazing. In those places it is very easy to understand what the planet would have turned into if the “products” tested on Novaya Zemlya had found their combat use.

Apparently, the settlement on the shore of Bashmachnaya Bay was abandoned in 1969, when radioactive gas was released after tests in limestone. Everything in this village bears the marks of a hasty flight, even the mortar left against the unfinished brick wall. In the center of the village in the 80s there was still a monument with the inscription “In memory of our fallen comrades” (I reproduce the text from memory, I saw it once, and more than twenty years ago). The monument to fallen comrades in the center of the dead village makes a strong impression. The region of Chernaya and Bashmachnaya lips subsequently became known as the "Southern zone" of the test site; after the release of 1969 and the evacuation of the village, no tests were carried out here.

September 17, 1954 is considered the official date of the creation of the test site on Novaya Zemlya, when, in accordance with the directive of the Main Headquarters of the Navy, the test site was designated as military unit 77510. The number of the military unit is still preserved, although the test site itself is no longer subordinate to the Navy, but directly to the Ministry of Defense. This day, September 17, 1954, is considered the official day of the founding of the village of Belushya Guba. By the thirtieth anniversary of this directive, in 1984, a monument was erected in Belushya Guba “To the founders of the garrison. 1954-1984".

The Navy is creating a system of units that monitor the movement of ships in the Novaya Zemlya area. These units are located mainly at the former polar stations, although some of these stations (for example, Malye Karmakuly, Cape Zhelaniya and Cape Menshikov) continue to operate in a "civilian" mode. Attempts were made to resume the basing of warships on Novaya Zemlya, but these attempts were unsuccessful. During nine months of the year, when there is ice off the Novaya Zemlya coast, the use of these ships was impossible.

Simultaneously with the units of the Navy, units of the country's Air Defense Forces begin to deploy on Novaya Zemlya. The headquarters of the 4th Air Defense Division, as well as the headquarters of the training ground, was located in Belushya Guba. It included radio engineering, anti-aircraft missile and fighter aviation regiments located on Novaya Zemlya, the northeast of the European part of the USSR and on Yamal. Units of the 3rd Radio Engineering Regiment (RTP) are being deployed on Novaya Zemlya and Franz Josef Land. The southernmost "point" of the 3rd RTP was located on Cape Menshikov. The northernmost "points" were located on Franz Josef Land - Graham Bell and Nagurskaya, and in the second half of the 80s a "point" was deployed on Victoria Island, located between Z.F.I. and Svalbard. The “points” of the 3rd RTP on Franz Josef Land and Victoria Island were the northernmost military units Soviet Union. The anti-aircraft missile regiment covered Belushya Guba and Rogachevo, the fighter aviation regiment was based at the Rogachevo airfield and was also intended mainly to protect Novaya Zemlya itself.

Somewhat later on Novaya Zemlya and Z.F.I. the deployment of units and subunits of other arms and branches of the armed forces begins. There were units of the Strategic Missile Forces here, who monitored the test launches of missiles and the launch of spacecraft from the Plesetsk cosmodrome. Military construction units (“construction battalions”) are deployed in Belushya Guba. On Alexandra Land in the 70s, the Nagurskaya frontier post was created, which became the northernmost frontier post of the Soviet Union and present-day Russia. This frontier still exists today.

On Graham Bell Island, which is part of Franz Josef Land, there was a separate aviation commandant's office that maintained an ice airfield in working order, capable of receiving heavy aircraft.

In 1956, the creation of the "Northern Zone" of the test site in the area of the Matochkin Shar Strait began. At the western entrance to the strait with south side the Severny settlement is being built, where the main tests were carried out in the 60-70s. If the "Southern Zone" of the test site was created for testing atomic weapons, then the original purpose of creating the "Northern Zone" was to test nuclear weapons, which are many times more powerful than nuclear weapons. The main tests of nuclear weapons (hydrogen bombs) were carried out on Novaya Zemlya.

In 1957, the entire local population was evicted from the islands and the military became its undivided masters. Since that time Novaya Zemlya has not performed any economic functions. From the period of “civilian” development of Novaya Zemlya in Belushya Guba, only a few wooden buildings near the pier, on one of which there is (or was?) a wooden memorial plaque with the inscription: "The Novaya Zemlya Island Council of Workers' Deputies was located here, the permanent chairman of which was Ilya (Tyko) Vylka." In total, 298 people were resettled from Novaya Zemlya to the mainland.

From 1957 to 1999, there was no “civilian” authority in this part of the country, the commander of military unit 77510 was the highest authority on Novaya Zemlya. In fact, Novaya Zemlya and Franz Josef Land were outside the grid of the USSR administrative-territorial division, obeying directly to Moscow.

The most powerful "product" that was tested over Novaya Zemlya was a bomb of 500 megatons of TNT equivalent. This test was carried out on October 30, 1961 over the North Island. In 1962, atomic tests in the air, on land and under water were stopped. Since that time, only underground tests have been carried out on Novaya Zemlya, carried out mainly in the northern zone of the test site. The number of these tests is sharply reduced: if in 1962 there were 36 of them, then in all subsequent years - basically 1-2 per year, maximum 4 (1975). These tests were carried out from 1963 to 1984, in 1985 and 1986 they were not carried out, then they were resumed, and during the tests in 1987 a release of radioactive gas occurred. The last nuclear weapons tests at Novaya Zemlya were carried out on October 24, 1990. Since then, only non-nuclear munitions have been detonated at the Northern Test Site, mainly to maintain technical condition polygon.

In the first decades of the "military" exploration of Novaya Zemlya, the testers of atomic weapons and the defenders of the northern air barriers lived in conditions that could best be called terrible. Residential houses and barracks were mostly wooden and for the most part were barracks with no running water or sewerage. A more or less stable water supply could be established only where there were large lakes with drinking water. In all other places it was necessary to be content with water obtained as a result of melting snow. Only in the 70s and 80s in Belushya Guba and Rogachevo capital buildings were built, the construction of which took into account the "northern" standards - high ceilings, triple glazing, etc.

However, at the points built in the second half of the 50s, the living conditions until the end of their existence (the beginning of the 90s) remained basically the same. For the inhabitants of the points, Belushya Guba and Rogachevo were indeed "capitals", the service at the points was inhumanly difficult. There was no "northern romance", as some might think, in such a service. If the officers received a double or triple salary and two years of service, the soldiers received nothing. Isolation from big land aggravated by a long stay in a very small team, where all relations are aggravated to the limit, and hazing, which flourished here, as in all the Armed Forces. There were cases of escape "to nowhere", since it is impossible to leave the New Earth.

And meridians 51°30` and 69°0` east longitude from Greenwich. This land belongs to the Arkhangelsk region. Undoubtedly, it is ranked by scientists among the islands of the mainland.

The two main islands are separated by a narrow, winding Strait Matochkin Shar. Of a number of small islands, the largest is Mezhdusharsky Island. Novaya Zemlya serves as the western boundary. From the south, it is washed by the waters of the Kara Gate Strait, which separates it from the island. From the west and northwest it is washed by the Murmansk and Arctic Oceans. Within these limits, the two islands form an arc, slightly curved and bulging towards the west. Since the northern part of Novaya Zemlya has not yet been surveyed, and even the position of its northern extremity cannot yet be finally established, the total length and area cannot yet be precisely given. Its length is about 1000 km. The greatest width is not more than 130 km. The area is approximately 80,025 square kilometers. Of this number, the southern island accounts for 35,988 square kilometers, and the northern one 44,037 square kilometers. Mezhdusharsky - 282 square kilometers. All the rest are about 290 square kilometers.

The length of the coastline of Novaya Zemlya is about 4400 kilometers. The most south point- Cape Kusov nos, located on the island of Kusova Zemlya, separated from Novaya Zemlya by the Nikolsky Shar Strait. From this point, the ocean coast goes to the west, and the sea coast to the east. The ocean coast is characterized by a large indentation of the coast, forming here a huge number of bays, peninsulas and islands. The most South part The coast is indented by smaller bays. The first significant bay is the Sakhanikha Bay (between 55 - 56 ° east longitude). One of the large Novaya Zemlya lip Sakhanikha flows into the strait. Further to the west is the Chernaya Bay strait, which extends far into the island for 30 kilometers. The western and north-western direction of the coast is preserved up to Cape Cherny, starting from here, the coast turns directly to the north, and then to the north-west. It forms a vast bay between Capes Cherny and Yuzhny Goose. It has indented shores. Here is located the largest of the skeletons of Novaya Zemlya - Mezhdsharsky. It is separated from the coast of Novaya Zemlya by the Kostin Shar strait, into which one of the most significant rivers of Novaya Zemlya, the Nekhvatov, flows. The length of the river is 80 kilometers. To the north of Mezhdushary Island there are two large bays: Rogachev and Belushya Bay.

Starting from Cape South Goose Nose, the coastline runs almost along the meridian, without forming any significant bays until Cape North Goose Nose. This part of the coast, 100 kilometers long, is the westernmost part of Novaya Zemlya. It is called Goose Land. Farther north, between Cape Goose Nose and Razor Nose, is Moller Bay, which in turn is indented by many coastal depressions, which form good moorings for ships, together with places lying near the islands. Here, in the bay of Malyye Karmakul, there has been a camp for a long time, where several families of Samoyeds live in winter and summer. In the north, Moller Bay ends with a deep-lying Pukhov Bay, into the top of which the Pukhovaya River flows. Further flows the river Britvinskaya. To the north of Cape Britvin there are two large bays: the southern one - the Bezymyannaya Bay and the northern one - the Mushroom Bay, separated by a high bay from Pervousmochennaya Mountain. Further to the entrance to the Matochkin ball, the coast is flat and rocky. The entrance to the Matochkin ball presents some difficulty, since one can easily mistake for it the Silver Bay lying a little to the north. However, signs have already been placed to facilitate entry into this bay.

Following the western shore further north, we meet Silver Bay, surrounded by high mountains. Next are the lips of Mityushikha and Volchikha. They are located in a deep recess between the shore of Novaya Zemlya and Cape Sukhoi Nos. From the Dry Nose to another prominent place - the Admiralty Peninsula - the coast of Novaya Zemlya is again indented with bays. The largest of them, starting from the south, is Krestovaya Bay with several islands. Two bays of Sulmenev enter here - northern and southern - and Mashigin Bay. There are many bays from the Admiralty Peninsula to the Gorbovy Islands. There are several islands here: Pankratiev, Wilhelm, Krestovy and others.

Further, the coast gradually deviates to the east - to Cape Nassau. The eastern coast does not have as many deep bays and protruding peninsulas as the western coast. Starting from the south of Kusov Nose, the coast turns to the north. Here is the extreme southeastern part of Novaya Zemlya, Cape Menshikov. From here, the coast of Novaya Zemlya gradually recedes to the west, almost without bays, to Abrosimov Bay, which lies slightly south of 72 ° north latitude. The Abrosimova River flows into it. From the Gulf of Abrosimov, the coast of Novaya Zemlya takes the direction of the north and north-east. Here it becomes more indented up to the very Matochkin ball. From here, to the north, the coastline becomes more indented and forms in places quite significant bays, the largest of them: Chekina, Neznaniy, Medvezhiy. To the north of which lies the Krasheninnikov Peninsula and the Pakhtusov Islands (74°25` north latitude). Further, Pakhtusov discovered Cape Dalniy, lying slightly south of 75 ° north latitude. From where to Cape Middendorf the coast is almost unknown. Behind it to the north lies Ice Harbor Bay, where the Dutchman Barents wintered in 1598. Further, the coast of Novaya Zemlya rises straight along the northern meridian to Cape Zhelanie. Novaya Zemlya was first discovered by the Novgorodians, probably in the 11th century. But the first written data about it are found in the edition of Hakluyt: "The principal navigations, Voyages and Discoveries of the English Nation" (London, 1859). Here is described the first journey of the English, under the command of Willoughby, east of the North Cape, in search of a northeast passage into

Included in the Arkhangelsk region of Russia as the administrative district of Novaya Zemlya and, within the framework of local government, in the status of the urban district of Novaya Zemlya.

Geography and climate

The archipelago consists of two large islands - North and South, separated by a narrow strait (2-3 km) Matochkin Shar and many relatively small islands, the largest of which is Mezhdsharsky. The northeastern tip of the North Island - Cape Flissing - is the easternmost point of Europe.

The archipelago stretches from southwest to northeast for 925 km. The northernmost point of Novaya Zemlya is the eastern island of the Greater Orange Islands, the southernmost is the Pynina Islands of the Petukhov Archipelago, the western is an unnamed cape on the Gusinaya Zemlya peninsula of the South Island, and the eastern is Cape Flissingsky of the Severny Island. The area of all the islands is more than 83 thousand km²; the width of the North Island is up to 123 km, the South - up to 143 km.

In the South Island, occurrences of native copper and cuprous sandstones are known.

All known ore fields require additional study, which is hampered by natural conditions, insufficient economic development and the special status of the archipelago.

In the waters of the seas surrounding the archipelago, a number of geological structures have been identified that are promising for the search for oil and gas fields.

Of the Western Europeans, the first to visit the archipelago in 1553 was the English navigator Hugh Willoughby, who, by decree of King Edward VI (1547-1553), led the expedition of the London "Moscow Company" to "find the Northeast Passage" and establish relations with the Russian state.

On the map of the Flemish scientist Gerard Mercator in 1595, Novaya Zemlya still looks like a single island or even a peninsula.

In the course of his third expedition, in 1596, Barents rounded the northern tip of Novaya Zemlya and wintered on the east coast of Severny Island in the area of Ice Harbor (1597). In 1871, the Norwegian polar expedition of Elling Carlsen discovered a preserved Barents hut in this place, in which dishes, coins, wall clocks, weapons, navigational tools were found, as well as a written report on wintering, hidden in a chimney.

The famous Dutch natural scientist Nikolaas Witsen in the book "Northern and Eastern Tartaria" (1692) - the first scientific work in Western Europe on Siberia and the Russian North - reports that Peter the Great intended to build a military fort on Novaya Zemlya.

The first two were carried out by him at the Malaye Karmakuly station on Yuzhny Island, which was then the only Russian settlement on the archipelago. Its elimination could lead to the loss of control by Russia over the islands and their capture by the Norwegians.

Arriving on the coast of Moller Bay on June 19, 1887, K. D. Nosilov settled in the house of the station of the Water Rescue Society. Together with the priest Father Jonah, seconded by the Archangel diocese, sailors and several Samoyeds, he restored an Orthodox chapel damaged by a hurricane in the Small Karmakuly, which helped attract Russian industrialists from Arkhangelsk to the island. During these winterings, K. D. Nosilov explored the coast of the island itself and the mountain range that crossed it, the local flora and fauna, the directions of animal migration, and also studied the language and everyday culture of the Samoyed families resettled there.

The third wintering of K. D. Nosilov in -1891 took place on the coast of the Matochkin Shar strait, where he founded the first meteorological station on the archipelago.

New Earth. View from space.

From March 27, 1927, Novaya Zemlya, like other islands in the Arctic Ocean, was governed by a special regulation of the All-Russian Central Executive Committee and the Council of People's Commissars of the RSFSR. In 1929 they came under the direct jurisdiction of the executive committee of the Northern Territory.

After the Nenets were evicted to the mainland, by the decision of the executive committee of the Arkhangelsk Regional Council of Working People's Deputies of July 15, 1957, the Novaya Zemlya Island Council was abolished from August 1, 1957 in accordance with the resolution of the Presidium of the Supreme Council of the RSFSR No. 764 of August 27, 1956.

From 1988 to 2014, the Marine Arctic Complex Expedition (MAKE) of the Russian Research Institute of Cultural and Natural Heritage named after A.I. D. S. Likhachev under the command and scientific guidance of P. V. Boyarsky.

In 2015, hydrographers of the Northern Fleet recorded the formation of seven capes and four straits, discovered nine islands in the Russian part of the Arctic.

Population

Flora and fauna

The main role in the formation of phytocenoses belongs to mosses and lichens. The latter are represented by species of cladonia, the height of which does not exceed 3-4 cm.

Arctic herbaceous annuals also play a significant role. Plants characteristic of the scarce flora of the islands are creeping species, such as creeping willow ( Salix polaris), saxifrage opposite-leaved ( Saxifraga oppositifolia), mountain lichen and others. The vegetation in the southern part is mostly dwarf birches, moss and low grass, in areas near rivers, lakes and bays a lot of mushrooms grow: milk mushrooms, mushrooms, etc.

On the Novaya Zemlya archipelago, according to the combined data of various authors, 6 species of bumblebees were identified. On the South Island of the archipelago, 6 species of diurnal butterflies were found. The coastal position of areas can significantly limit the number of species in local fauna butterflies due to unfavorable natural and climatic conditions. The flight time of club-bearing Lepidoptera is usually very short and falls on the warmest period, while the flight time can significantly shift depending on weather conditions.

Of the animals, polar foxes, lemmings, white partridges, and also reindeer are common. Polar bears come to the southern regions with the onset of cold weather, posing a threat to local residents. Marine animals include harp seals, seals, bearded seals, walruses, and whales.

nuclear test site

However, on the eve of the 50th anniversary of the creation of the test site at Novaya Zemlya, the head of the Russian Federal Atomic Energy Agency, Alexander Rumyantsev, said that Russia intends to continue to develop the test site and keep it in working condition. At the same time, Russia is not going to conduct nuclear tests on the archipelago, but intends to carry out non-nuclear experiments to ensure the reliability, combat capability and safety of storing its nuclear weapons.

Disposal of radioactive waste

In addition to testing nuclear weapons, the territory of Novaya Zemlya (or rather, the water area adjacent directly to its eastern coast) in 1957-1992 was used for the disposal of liquid and solid radioactive waste (RW). Basically, these were containers with spent nuclear fuel (and in some cases, entire reactor plants) from submarines and surface ships of the Northern Fleet of the Navy of the USSR and Russia, as well as icebreakers with nuclear power plants.

Since 2002, the areas where the PPO is located have been subject to annual monitoring by the Russian Emergencies Ministry. In 1992-1994, international expeditions were carried out (with the participation of specialists from Norway) to assess the degree of environmental pollution; since 2012, the activities of such expeditions have been resumed.

Notes

Regional law of September 23, 2009 N 65-5-OZ "On the administrative-territorial structure of the Arkhangelsk region"
Charter of the Arkhangelsk region
Knipovich N. M., Shokalsky Yu. M.// Encyclopedic Dictionary of Brockhaus and Efron: in 86 volumes (82 volumes and 4 additional). - St. Petersburg. , 1890-1907.
labyrinth
New Earth. Book 2. Part 1. Under the general. ed. P. V. Boyarsky. M., 1998.
Unknown Arctic // Novaya Zemlya Vesti, Friday, December 06, 2013. No. 49 (417)
Charnock, Richard Stephen. Local Etymology: A Derivative Dictionary of Geographical Names. - London: Houlston and Wright, 1859. - P. 192.
Aleksandrova V. D., Zubkov A. I. Physical-geographical sketch of Novaya Zemlya.
George Blon. Great hour of the oceans. polar seas. - M., 1984. - S. 22.
Tsiporukha M.I. Seas of the Russian Arctic
Pierre-Martin de Lamartinere. Journey to the Nordic countries
All about the Novaya Zemlya archipelago. Exploration of Novaya Zemlya
All about the Novaya Zemlya archipelago. Settlement of Novaya Zemlya
Sosnovsky I. V. . The Most Submissive Report on the State of the Arkhangelsk Governorate for 1909. Arkhangelsk, 1911 (indefinite) . Project "Electronic Memory of the Arctic". emaproject.com. Retrieved January 30, 2013. Archived from the original February 1, 2013.
Nature and people, 1912, No. 21
About the municipality
Boyarsky P. "Russian Arctic" is unique (indefinite) . // Internet edition Vesti.ru(June 27, 2009). Retrieved 23 April 2016.
Donskikh, Ekaterina. Adventurer in the Arctic. How a unique scientist grew out of romance // Arguments and Facts. - 2014. - No. 9 (1738) for February 26. - S. 62. (Retrieved April 23, 2016)
Hydrographers of the Northern Fleet discovered an island near Novaya Zemlya (Russian), TASS. Retrieved October 12, 2017.
Novaya Zemlya - the history of settlement (indefinite) . arhangelsk.allnw.ru. Retrieved January 30, 2013. Archived from the original February 1, 2013.

Yakub Kolas

new land

paema

I. Lesnikova pasada

My native kut, how dear you are to me! ..

Forget it, I can't help it!

More than once, weary darogai,

Zhytstsem vyasny may be miserable,

To taba I fill my thoughts

I sleep there with my soul.

Oh, if I hatseў spachatku

Darogu live on the parade

Price yashche times, azirnuzza,

Sabrats from the stone gift,

What is the ruin of the power of the young, -

To vyasna b Mayo hatseў varnuzza.

Clear, clear! you are not for me!

Not me, you are abagrety,

I am glad to sleep your passage, -

Tsyabe forever, vyasna, hava.

Do not go back, praising melting,

Into s fast rechkay swim away.

More than once, yana, having worked in pairs,

On the wings of the sun doidze to the dark

Dyznoў dazhdzhom on the river sydze -

None of the borders of your own will not come out,

From laws written in life,

Abo on the slopes of the mists.

But who is the package for us?

Lying on a valley with snow?

You will not return, like praising melting,

To me, you are clear, young one! ..

Vos yak tsyaper, pass me

Keep a pack of that jumper,

Krynichki vuzenko box

І tree ў couples with hvaіnoyu,

Abnyaushysya tsesna over water,

Like a young woman, it’s an hour of kahannya,

Ў aposhni evening parting.

I bachu forest, I calla huts,

Dze kolіs merry dzyaўchaty

They sang songs to friendly choirs,

From works іduchy known to bors.

The languages of the healthy songs were heard,

Ў lyasah once-a-time adbіvalіs,

I am uzgorki adklіkalіs,

I rejoiced in the songs of the free.

And needles, fir-trees of centuries

Pad languages the song of the young

Maўchkom flocked ў some thought,

І ў іх tsikhusenechkі noise

It turned out to be vechernyae malenne

Ogaru, holy addalenne.

Kalya pasada forestry

I'm slacking off

Old, high forests of tsyanisty.

Here is the top of the asina round

Splicing with needles, with oaks,

And fir-trees with gloomy wings

High ў the sky stood out,

Taemna hvoyami shaptalіs.

Zasedy vague, would have been,

Yana's flocked the most,

I'm so dirty pasirali

Their conceived heads!

The forest is advancing and parting,

A green meadow is torn;

And dze jumping bends

So dear, kalya sit down,

What is simple I would love.

And at the bottom of the geta forest is cashews

Meў zelyanyusenkyya shaty

Lazy, charms and buckthorn,

Aleshyn lipkikh, verabina.

Glyadzіsh, it happened, and zdaetstsa,

What do I go through galіn living,

Through this fabric, young

No mice, no bird, not great.

The cycle is here from the forest nevyalіchka

Krynichka overgrown with grass,

Abodva beragі katorai

Lazniak, rakіtnik abstupali;

Bruіlisya ў tsyanku іх praise

І ў Meadow I mean ruin

Ishli spakoyna mizh charotaў,

Worked a lot of zavarota,

As long as the Neman did not chime.

A green meadow, like a skin to the wok,

Abrusam lush and wide

Abapal

For hatay, I'm swearing at once

Let's breathe

Z murozhnay slavnayu grass

І zzyaў on the suns ў peralivah

Pyashchotny tones. Yak in the fields

Zhyta zbazhynki easy gnuzza

And people are happy to laugh

To our primal, sweet sings

Fall to the light windy paveva, -

So gnuzza, goidaya grass,

Yak armhole breeze their affectionate,

I go to herbal praise

With the right spells of charada,

Whisper the colors between yourself,

Neby dzyachchatki young.

Ah, the meadow is wide! How alive, you

The real sleepyhead is flooded,

Uvesh staish perad vachyma,

You are sweet and troubled, like a joy,

Like our old lady,

Dze smugі blue pyalyonka

The summer hour is hazy

Think farther away.

Hotz I navollyat tsyazhka zmuchan

I was separated from native shores,

Yes, my soul azhuyu,

I think as I think

Tsyabe, my meadow and shore are native,

Dze liezza Neman srebravodny,

Oaks dze friendly charadoy

Flock, like vezhy, over water

For the latest help to the vartans

I zzyayutsya formidable zharalami.

And only here, fall of their enchantress,

Fly away, good pagodka,

Kasboy tired, spachynesh

Pack your thoughts,

Fall asleep krepka and licorice.

It's so cool here, so quick!

And the birds are loud and healthy

Smyayutstsa cute shchabyatannym

І poўnyats meadow with your sleep.

And on the oaks, like hats,

Buslavy's nests are charneyuts.

Beads are clattering, buslings

Pishchats is plaintive, like shchanyats,

We are fading away

І ask esci ў your time.

And there, dze busliki ўzduzhali,

Іх pachynayuts vabіts far away;

Yana patchouli is the power of itself,

Yana's already bred wings,

Ўgaru on the location fall,

Pavetra catch, grab

I clumsy nagas

Dancing funny over the oaks.

There, at the padsuses with beads,

І verab "і, shpakі vyaduzza;

Klapotna shchebety yasuzza

I can know in the evenings.

Ў oaks are covered with sivavaronki,

I whistle over the meadows sharp, calls

Karshun is dirty so early

I throw some confusion.

Ah, the meadow is wide! How alive, you

Grass murozhnuyu closed,

Become green with me

I zzyayesh dzіўnaya beauty!

Like two old cabets,

To which starasts unknowingly

Falling like a villain in the middle of the night,

Yak savory sleep zmykae vochy,

You take beauty and strength

I steal all my life

Dy kіne іh hellish, old ones,

Hell, like a finger, and a little bit alive

І non-proprietary anіkomu

On tsyagast zhitstsyu young man, -

So Kalya huts, near the garden,

Shіlіўshys tsіkhenka ў kutochku,

There were two old willows,

And navacola is young

Dzyareўtsy are magnificently handsome,

Pasirali was hanging into the light.

Gallo descended over parkanas,

The pear grew here with thin camps;

Pa-above parkanam lush shafts

Flocks of cherries are thick, weepy.

The garden would be, true, nevyalichki:

Two verses and three dzіchki

Dy mizh willow sticky young,

Would be their darling.

Ale yak is cheerful and sweet

Here is a bee ў vullah hamanila!

And it smelled like honey!

Pladzіl_s pcholki z skin years:

Shtoleta vullya was passing -

Grandma was trotting on the bees.

The rumble of their flocks and days and nights.

Happened, ўletka, ў hour of work

More than once there I feel the roar of the vine:

Whoa, tata! dzyadzka! the bees are out!

In the cherry villages of the kala raft!

Men gave work,

Kasbu over the river behind the bushes,

I fugitive shybka, cab hours

The bees are not angry at the forest,

Duc іh there pіlnenkka glyadzeli.

On the jumping ropes, entrusted to the gardens,

The pavets with the threshing floor flocked to the glades,

And fall pavetka prolady:

Vazok, wheels, panarades,

Old sleigh, wake, cola

І vullyaў nekalki on bees,

Yashche unfinished; sujina,

Stary tsaberak, paўasmina

І different rubbish and scrap lying around,

Hell of the sun, rain hava -

Patrebny speeches, eat out!

Gumenets, covered salomay,

Hell spent long hours;

Saloma kudlam_ hung,

Yae wind parazіmalі,

And three lads were passyagali,

On the fear of lazyachi, it happened, -

Ih geta zabaўka occupied.

And fall with a shchyt on a pavucine

Nishchymny Kolas-Siratsina

Ў zatsіshku lёgenka gaidaўsya;

For three hours I've been trembling there,

That God is holy, you know!

Budoulya, big yashche old,

With rotten, concave fear

A flock of sluts just like that

I chuts lipeў, as if on the square

Garshchok, smashed with kachargo.

Stary, paedzeny charvy,

On the side are covered with wind,

Glyadzeў hleў gety oldychynay,

Pahilay share the gill;

And on the side, ў field, not far

A flock of adzinok jumper,

Pakhilkam, bitter orphan,

Dol stubborn fear.

On a block of dwara, a hut melted

I looked zukhavata

Pamizh zapushchanay budovy,

Like a gentry zastsyankova,

That ў day is holy kala kastsela,

Chuts-chuts fall the edge of the padola,

So important is walking with parasons,

Fall down, turn like an agon,

Z darozhak ardor, sang sing

І ў look at the lads.

For hatay, the field was soiled,

Dze zhyta horasha gaidala

I grew aves, barley and buckwheat, -

It was a naughty nest! ..

My native kut, meadows, krynitsa!

Tsyaper for you I am a stranger.

That same forest, palettes,

Yes, other people live there.

My soul smells of turmoil,

That the bastards passed away,

Mae happy dzyanechki, -

Prayshla, you are very young!

Tsyaper we will kindle the hours of the shaty,

Closer we jump and huts,

Yes Mikhasya and yes Antosya,

Like it was sluggish there, like it was stinging.

II. Ranitsa ў nyadzelka

The day would be holy. Yashche hell early

The twins glared at the photo,

І zho pry stoves with a cup

Matsi flocked ... Fall by the hand

Taўklіsya dzetsi, zaminali

Abo hesitated, slept.

Uslon took his own place,

A cesta flocked on it,

I apalonik to i zela

Pa dzezhtsy boўtaў zhvava, dared

І kіdаў tsestа ў skavarodki.

Gave a squeak but a short one,

Leaking out of the noise on the patelnі,

І ў the heat became pyakelny;

І there s Iago ўvachavidki

Pyaklisya smooth tiles

Blintsov, the fall of the congratulatory,

The eel is lush, the plumpness of the taken,

I already adtul with the hand of the uterus

On the slope of the spur ...