People from the Stone Age. Real negritos live in the Andaman Islands! Paradise for ethnographers. Sections on this page

The book of the American scientist R. Furle "Erectus wanders between us" is devoted to a discussion of the most controversial and complex issues of modern evolutionary anthropology. Acting as a critic of the position of egalitarianism, R. Förle systematizes and cites in his book numerous scientific data on genetic, anatomical, physiological, psychological, behavioral, and cultural differences between the main races. Being a staunch opponent of the theory of the origin of man from Africa, the author, based on the data he cites from various scientific fields (including physical anthropology, population genetics, psychology, medicine, sociology, criminology), develops the concept of origin modern man from Eurasia.

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“Ancient times in the Congo are almost a completely blank slate, so that we cannot come close to understanding the condition of the Negroes in the past. At the same time, we are unable to find their ancient traces anywhere else. We don't know anything about the Negroes…”

(Howells, 1948, pp. 279, 295, 297).

"In the territory of the Negroes - the main genetic base of peoples completely different from whites and Mongoloids - we find practically no history at all." (Howells, 1959, p. 303)

According to the I-and-A theory, the current Africans evolved to the modern human anthropological type (Hss) in Africa, left Africa 65,000 years ago, migrated to Asia, replacing all then its inhabitants without mixing with them, and then lost their African alleles and acquired completely new Asian alleles. According to the I-and-E theory, Mongoloids and Caucasoids evolved separately for more than 2 million years, but from time to time interbreeding occurred between their lines, but the African line did not evolve so much as acquire signs.

All mankind evolved "up, up and further" from an ape-like ancestor, but Africans did not evolve that far for the simple reason that they remained in the same habitat in which this ape-like ancestor lived (that is, they were close to equilibrium, see . Chapter 4, Rule 10) and were not subjected to rigorous selection under the influence of the northern climate. Moreover, only a small fraction of the evolutionary change in Africans is due to the selection of traits encoded by mutations that originated in Africa. In contrast, Africans predominantly received Eurasian-originated mutations when Eurasian hominids migrated to Africa and interbred with them (Luis, 2004; Garrigan, 2007). If Eurasian hominids had never entered Africa, there would be no members of the genus Homo today.

Primate migrations from Eurasia to Africa may have begun as early as the time of the prosiminae, followed by quadrupedal apes, upright apes, australopithecines, erectus, northern Hs, and finally Hss. Over time, migrations occurred from one part of Eurasia, then from another, then, probably, in the opposite direction, this time more evolutionarily developed hominids migrated. And so on back and forth for millions of years.

Since the intervals between migrations to Africa were not so great for new and old migrants to evolve into different types, interbreeding between them, producing viable offspring, was possible and common. As usual, only the hybrids best adapted to African conditions survived. The number of more evolutionarily advanced migrants entering Africa was at all times much smaller than the number of evolutionarily less advanced early migrants with whom they could interbreed. Therefore, new migrants were absorbed and left behind very few fossils; the only evidence for their existence was the presence of their alleles in their hybrid offspring. Thus, for more than a million years, a huge number of alleles of the evolutionarily more advanced inhabitants of Eurasia fell into the genome of African primates, which is why Africans have the greatest genetic diversity (Fig. 19-2) and have no ancestors.

Upon arrival in Africa, the evolutionarily advanced hominids and their hybrid offspring displaced the less advanced hominids from their territories in Northeast Africa. The early more primitive migrants did not die out immediately, but retreated to inferior territories, their numbers dwindling, but they survived for many, many years before disappearing entirely.

Meanwhile, back to Eurasia, where the alleles were formed that allowed hominids to turn into modern people. There, too, similar processes took place, but hundreds of thousands of years earlier than in Africa. Namely, when a new allele spread in Eurasia, it was adaptive in Eurasian conditions and probably provided better resistance to cold or increased intelligence, which helped to survive more successfully. harsh winters. In Eurasia, moreover, interbreeding took place between hominids with and without new alleles, producing hybrid offspring, and just as in Africa, only the fittest survived. The difference, however, is that this process took hundreds, if not millions, of years to spread new alleles among the individuals who might have brought them to Africa. Thus, on the path of the formation of modern man, Africa has always been hundreds of thousands of years behind Eurasia.

Now the legitimate question is, "Why didn't these new alleles also arise in Africa?" No doubt some of the African-specific alleles arose there, and others may have arisen over time. But when new alleles emerged in Africa, they spread as single alleles, so that individuals who had them either succeeded or failed because they had only one allele. When alleles were brought to Africa by migrants from Eurasia, they were brought not as single alleles, one for each individual, but as sets of compatible alleles. Those with the entire set of alleles did or did not do well on the basis of the whole set being generally more favorable than a single allele. In addition, the negative effect of a small number of alleles maladaptive in Africa could be offset by the positive effects of the remaining adaptive alleles in the set. Gradually, the maladaptive alleles were to disappear. As discussed above (Chapter 14), the alleles for high intelligence were probably maladaptive in Africa and have been lost since even Africans in Northeast Africa now have very low IQs (Lynn, 2006a).

The migrants brought with them not only their genes, they also brought their culture, and because their culture was more developed, this provided them with a significant advantage. An allele with an African culture could be maladaptive, but an allele with a Eurasian culture could be adaptive even in Africa. For example, the allele that ensures the digestion of milk does not give advantages to peoples who do not keep herds of herbivorous mammals, that is, in Africa, but it is favorable in Eurasia, where herds are kept.

Early primates migrated to Africa from the Eurasian tropics and could easily adapt to African conditions. The hominids that came later migrated from a colder climatic zone, as a result of which they were not adapted to the conditions of the tropics, that is, they were not resistant to tropical diseases, and most of them did not survive for a long time, so very few fossil remains remained from them. Chapter 23 describes some of the early hominids up to the Australopithecus that may have migrated to Africa. The first migrants of the genus Homo may have been the early H. habilis, better adapted to Eurasia than to Africa, but with some advantages, such as better tools and weapons, giving an advantage also in Africa. The remains of Homo georgicus are very similar to the remains of the African H. habilis, H. ergaster and H. erectus, as well as the remains of the Heidelberg man found in Africa.

Eurasian hominids hybridized with tropical disease-resistant native hominids before becoming extinct, producing offspring with various combinations of traits from parental populations. Hybrids, possessing both resistance to tropical diseases and some progressive traits of Eurasian hominins, overcame selection and survived, gradually spreading across Africa, although evolutionarily always remaining hundreds of thousands of years behind the natives of Eurasia. The only trace of all the various migrants that have come to Africa for more than 2 million years is big variety alleles and the traits they encode found in today's Africans (Fig. 19-2). The family tree shown in Figure 26-1 shows how, starting with the four-legged great apes, Africans moved forward under the influence of waves of Eurasian hominids migrating there, introducing alleles of more progressive traits into the African gene pool.

Figure 26-1

Figure 26-2

Figure 26-2 shows the settlement areas of some African tribes (Howells, 1948, p. 271). The arrows show three migration routes to Africa (the Isthmus of Suez and the Horn of Africa) and out of Africa (the Strait of Gibraltar). Note that below the "African whites" zone lies the "Zone of mixture", stretching across the entire continent, including the Horn of Africa and most South Africa. The Hottentots and Bushmen of the Kalahari Desert are right in the middle of the "Mixing Zone". "Forest negros" (Forest negro) are Kongoids living in and around the Congo and Niger river basins, from where African Americans originate.

The Sahara desert was "an almost insurmountable barrier to the movement of man from North to South", except during the ice ages, when there was a "temperate humid climate" (Howells, 1948, p. 270). Thus, the Sahara desert was inhabited and easily overcome only during the ice ages, which drove the inhabitants of Eurasia to the South, to Africa.

Note that North Africa and what is now Egypt were inhabited by whites, and that whites must have migrated from Africa through the Straits of Gibraltar. If Africans migrated out of Africa, as the I-and-A theory claims, then it is difficult to explain how so many North Africans could turn out to be white. Indeed, the migrating Africans were not supposed to turn white by staying in Ethiopia and Egypt. It can be assumed that all Africans were black, especially in northern Africa, through which they supposedly moved on their way to Eurasia. In fact, the population of North Africa was white, and this "whiteness" decreases as one moves south and west into the Congo, which suggests that all migrations were made by whites to Africa, but not by blacks from Africa.

Barring periods of unpredictable droughts, African hominins lived under the stable conditions of a tropical climate that had existed in Africa for millions of years. The more stable the environment, the less the living creatures that live in it evolve (Chapter 4, Rule 6). That is, any new and unusual traits that emerged in Africa were probably not as favorable as the traits that African hominids already had and worked well in Africa for millions of years.

Figure 26-3

Figure 26-3 ("World Book Encyclopedia") shows climatic zones Africa. The white population of the Mediterranean coast of Africa (Fig. 26-2) could penetrate into Africa through the Strait of Gibraltar or through the Isthmus of Suez, but moving further south was feasible only when the Sahara was not a desert. But for the settlers who penetrated into Africa in the Horn of Africa and in Ethiopia, the movement to the South was possible at any time. Starting in Ethiopia, the settlement of Africa could have gone south along the East Coast to the southern tip of the continent, and then again north along the West Coast.

There are many diverse peoples in Africa, but we will consider only a few of the most diverse from the most diverse countries.

Since the Congoids are the most Simian-like Africans and live in one of the most inaccessible regions of Africa for migrants from Eurasia, they are probably the descendants of the oldest hominids that migrated to Africa. Tropically adaptive Congoid traits, such as dark, hairless skin and short, black curly hair on the head, were most likely brought to Africa by tropically adapted upright apes, possibly a species of Australopithecus. Although Hs and Hss migrated to the South as in South-East Asia, and in Africa, displaced more primitive hominids, in Southeast Asia, primitive hominids were driven to the islands and mixed with the newcomers to a lesser extent. In Africa, however, these Hs and Hss did not survive. As a result, a smaller number of alleles of these Hs and Hss got into the African genome, especially in isolated Congoids, which thus retained more features of their ape-like ancestors.

Nigerians are the African tribe most genetically related to chimpanzees (Deka, 1995). Nigeria is located on the West Coast of Africa (Fig. 17-6), which makes it difficult to reach from the Middle East, from where migrants from Eurasia could reach it, either moving through the middle of Africa or south along the coast to the tip of Africa and then back to the North along the East Coast across the equator with South American Indians than with Africans West Africa» (Haywood, 2000, p. 44). Note also (Fig. 7-3) that the Mbuti Pygmies in the Congo are at the greatest genetic distance from the peoples of Eurasia.]. Thus, in comparison with all Africans, Nigerians either received fewer infusions of Homo genes from the natives of Eurasia, or they turned out to be better adapted in this territory and only hybrids that retained more primitive traits could survive. The area where Nigerians live is "the jungle of the Congo and the Slave Coast of the West Coast of Africa" ​​(Howells, 1948, p. 270), home to chimpanzees and gorillas. This suggests that interbreeding between human and chimpanzee lineages described in the literature (Patterson, 2006; Arnold, 2006) occurred in the Congo in the West African lineage. This explains the presence of simian-like features in African Americans, originating from West Africa.

In order to understand the origin of the San and Hottentot peoples, it is necessary to briefly consider some of the inhabitants of Asia. As the number of Asian hominids increased, they spread along the coast of Asia to the West and then to Africa (Olivieri, 2006). One of these populations descended from tropical-adapted australopithecines that lived in India. Today, a small remnant of these people still live on Andaman Islands(Fig. 26-4; Coon, 1962, p. XVIII), a chain of small islands in the Bay of Bengal east of India. About 60,000 years ago, during the first ice age, the Andaman Islands were accessible from the coast of mainland India, and these people probably also lived there. They either increased their numbers and migrated to Africa, or they were forced out there by more advanced northern hominids moving south to escape the glaciation.

Figure 26-4

Although the buttocks of the woman in figure 26-4 are partially hidden, it is obvious that they are huge. Steatopygia (lit. "fat ass") is a very unusual and very primitive sign associated with the buttocks of female great apes and marmosets, swelling and turning bright red, signaling the onset of ovulation to males. Although in our case these are fat reserves, probably to help survive periods of famine, enlarged buttocks could be attractive to males, just as the swollen buttocks of females are to males of other primates. A similar influence on men was the bustle dress worn by English ladies in the Victorian era in the late 1800s. Since enlarged buttocks are associated with great apes, the presence of steatopygia in living humans suggests that the earliest migrants to Africa were apparently tropical-adapted Australopithecus from India.

If the ancestors of the Andaman Islanders came to Africa, then it should be possible to find traces of this population there. The Hottentots (aka the Coy) are a tribe closely related to the Bushmen. Both of them speak a monosyllabic "click" language. Their Y-chromosome haplogroup A is the oldest in the human lineage (Knight, 2003). The Hottentots lived in South Africa near the Cape of Good Hope. Purebred Hottentots no longer exist, some of them died out as a result of a smallpox epidemic, and the rest mixed with other Africans. But at the beginning of the 19th century, descriptions and drawings of the Hottentots were made, and we have not only their bones, as in the case of other extinct populations. Hottentot women looked more unusual than their men. Figure 26-5 shows the most famous Hottentot woman known as the Hottentot Venus.

Figure 26-5

This woman, like the native Andaman Islander (Fig. 26-4), has extremely large buttocks. In addition, this woman had extremely developed labia minora and large areolas with depressed nipples. Her face was flat, similar to a Mongoloid, except for protruding teeth and angled incisors, as in other Africans (Coon, 1962, p. 646). The brain of the Hottentots was small and had a simplified structure.

The Bushmen (or San), a pygmy tribe of hunter-gatherers living in the Kalahari Desert in South Africa, are the most primitive people on Earth. Figure 26-6 is a photograph of a Bushman man. As you can see, even their men have steatopygia. It is steatopygia that binds together the Andaman Islanders, Hottentots and Bushmen as descendants of one population.

Figure 26-6

Figure 26-7

Now let's look at another bushman (woman) in Figure 26-7 (Coon, 1962, Plate V). Although the Bushmen have some African features (large lips, flat nose, small ears, and curly hair), they also have some neotenic Mongoloid features (Cruciani, 2002), including light, yellowish skin and a flat face; these traits are adaptations to the cold and are common among the neotenic natives of East Asia. Unlike other Africans, Bushmen are monogamous, which is typical for the cold North. Bushmen also have spatulate incisors, and many newborn Bushmen have "Mongolian spots" at the base of the spine. Along with Mongoloid traits, Bushmen's DNA is 56% Middle Eastern. That is, interbreeding probably took place between the steatopygic Andaman Islander lineage with the neotenic East Asian lineage. Interbreeding took place in Asia rather than Africa, since the Bushmen originally lived in North Africa (where the Eurasian natives penetrated into Africa), before being pushed south by newly arrived migrants. Because the Bushmen were less able to fight back against other tribes, they now occupy less habitable territories in the Kalahari Desert. The desert, however, may have helped them escape malaria-carrying mosquitoes and avoid being completely destroyed by later, more advanced migrants.

Bushmen's small size may be because their tropical-adapted Australopithecus ancestors were also small, or long-term calorie restriction, a condition that makes large, energy-hungry brains burdensome. When there is not enough food, then the individuals whose body requires the least amount of energy have more chances for survival, and individuals with smaller brains consume relatively less energy. As a result, the brain size has decreased, which causes the Bushmen to have the lowest IQ (54 points) of all tested populations and the smallest brain-to-body mass ratio (even lower than that of the natives). southern islands Pacific Ocean).

As the example of the Bushmen shows, it is quite possible to be neotenous (which is not a primitive trait in humans), but to have a small brain. On the contrary, the example of the Neanderthals shows that it is equally possible to have primitive features (powerful brow ridges, sloping forehead) but still have a large brain.

“But originally they [the natives of East Africa] must have belonged to the Upper Paleolithic variety of white people with a large skull. ... People like them lived in the South of Russia in the Mesolithic and, probably, in the Middle East ”(Howells, 1959, p. 313). “To put it simply, if the skull means anything, it is the whites, and not any other aliens, who have been firmly rooted in East Africa since the late Pleistocene” (Ibid., p. 311). Thus, this is consistent with southward migrations of Caucasians to Africa.

Figure 26-8

Cro-Magnons, retreating under the onslaught of ice to the South during the Ice Ages, migrated to Africa and hybridized with the population already living there. Figure 26-8 shows a Somali (who emigrated to Russia) who has a Caucasoid appearance. Although there are Caucasoid traits, the behavior of Northeast Africans remains African, as is their IQ (Ethiopia = 63, Somalia = 68, Kenya = 72; Lynn, 2002a). The existence of Bushmen and Somalis in Africa at the present time proves that Europeans migrated to Africa in antiquity.

Thus, Africans are the descendants of at least three types of tropically adapted australopithecines: (1) Indian australopithecines with steatopygia, for example, the ancestors of the Andaman Islanders, (2) Asiatic australopithecines with neoteny and cold adapted, for example, like the negritos of the islands Pacific Ocean, and (3) more universalized australopithecines, which did not have the specializations of the first two species, but were adapted to the tropics. Some of the lines of the more universalized Africans, which did not undergo significant mixing with Europeans, retained their inherent features of the Simians (Kongoids), while others mixed much more significantly and lost their Simian features (Natives of Northeast Africa) to a greater extent. The last common ancestor (LCA) of these three Australopithecus species, probably most similar to species 3, was also adapted to warm climates, but to a lesser extent to the tropics. Living in the tropics for millions of years, Australopithecus species 3 must have retained Simian prognathism (Figs. 25–10) plus the tropical specializations of their ape-like bipedal ancestors, such as advanced sweat glands, dark hairless skin, and short, curly black head hair. Boskop

Sometimes there are "anomalies" that do not seem to fit into the theory or cannot be explained within its framework. You can view the anomaly as an annoying nuisance that you can sweep under the carpet, hoping that no one will notice, or, on the contrary, as a guiding thread to a deeper understanding of the issue. The boskop is an anomaly that any theory of human origins must decide, although it is not easy to determine which boskop theory is correct.

Figure 26-9

There is little information about the Boskop (otherwise Homo capensis), just a few skull fragments found in the Transvaal, in the northwestern part of South Africa. Figure 26-9 shows a reconstruction of the skull, where the preserved fragments are shown in darker color. Although the skull has been dated to only 30,000 to 10,000 years old, the skull bones are thick and the lower jaw is massive and protruding. It is described as "modern looking" (neotenian) because it has a high forehead and large intracranial volume and looks like a Caucasoid, but the protruding lower jaw makes it similar to African skulls (see Fig. 9-4). Its cranial index (skull width divided by length times 100) is 75.1 according to some sources and 76.19 according to others, slightly higher than the value of modern Africans (< 75, см. таблицу 9–1). Это предполагает некоторую долю европеоидной родословной. Тем не менее его внутричерепной объем определен в 1860 см, что больше значения европейцев (1441 см), намного больше значения африканцев (1338 см) и даже больше значения неандертальцев (1450 см) и люцзяньского человека (1480 см). Более того, Боскоп считается родственным готтентотам и бушменам, имеющим очень небольшой внутричерепной объем. Каким же образом обитавший в Южной Африке Боскоп приобрел такие признаки?

Taking into account some Hottentot-Bushman and some Caucasoid signs of Boskop, it can be assumed that the Cro-Magnons who reached the Horn of Africa and migrated further to the South hybridized along the way with the local population, although this does not explain the large intracranial volume.

We only know that today there are no Africans with big brains. The disappearance of large-brained Africans such as Boskop and Eurasians who contributed their alleles to Bushmen (IQ = 54, Lynn, 2006a, p. 169) and Somalis (IQ = 68, Lynn, 2002a) is evidence that the optimal the level of intelligence in Africa is much lower than in Eurasia (see Chapter 14, section “Intelligence as a Burden”). In North Africa, the lighter-skinned and somewhat more intelligent hybrids adapted best (mean IQ = 84; Lynn, 2006a, p. 80), but south of the Sahara it turned out to be darker-skinned, less intelligent individuals (mean IQ = 67; Lynn , 2006a, p. 225) and retaining more features of erectus. Thus, for all large-brained Caucasians who migrated to Africa, the excess of their brain tissue became an unbearable burden, and they had to disappear, like Boskop.

It is colder today in southern Africa, where Boskop was discovered, but not as cold as in Eurasia. The big brain was not so useful there in view of the absence of such a cold winter, when snow covers the ground for several months. Figure 26-10 shows average monthly temperatures in Bloemfontein, South Africa's coldest city (due to its elevated position), but even there temperatures rarely reach the freezing point of water.

Figure 26-10

However, there were times in the past when the temperature in Africa, at least in the highlands, was lower, and a large brain and high intelligence should have given their owners an advantage. Under such conditions, the optimal brain size in Africa should have been larger, and the large-brained northerners who migrated to Africa from cold Europe could maintain their previous brain size or even increase it. When the climate in Africa warmed up again, large-capacity brains again became a burden, and the individuals who had them died out.

Two skeletons found in Italy, in the Grimaldi cave near Menton on Cote d'Azur mediterranean sea, are another anomaly. They date back to 30,000 BC. e. and look like a Caucasoid-Negroid hybrid, but closer to Caucasoid than Boskop. One of the skeletons belonged to a woman 1.58 m tall, and the other to a teenage boy 1.55 m tall (Fig. 26–11). Negroid features of these skeletons are wide nasal passages, large teeth, forward-tilted incisors, a protruding lower jaw, a small chin and long forearms and legs, while Caucasoid features are a high forehead, features of fusion of the frontal bones, a large intracranial volume (1375 cm in a woman and 1580 cm in a boy) and protruding nasal bones.

Figure 26-11

Above the remains of Grimaldi, a Cro-Magnon skull was buried, and below them were the remains of a Neanderthal, which suggests that Neanderthals previously lived there, then hybrid Grimaldi appeared, and finally Cro-Magnons occupied this territory. A possible explanation is that the Ice Ages pushed the Cro-Magnons to Africa, where they mixed with the Africans to form the Grimaldi hybrid. When the ice receded, the hybrids spread north along the Mediterranean coast. They were later replaced by non-hybridised Cro-Magnons.

We are used to the fact that the black population of our planet was concentrated in Africa. However, short people with dark skin and curly hair, very similar to African pygmies, live not only on the Black Continent. Since ancient times, they have inhabited the Pacific Islands and Australia, where they are called Negritos (from the diminutive form of the word negro - “black”).

Scientists do not know exactly when exactly the Pacific natives settled on many large and small islands and where they came from. The mystery is this: along with black-skinned and curly-haired undersized natives, by the time they were discovered by Europeans, people of a different type also lived on these islands - taller, with relatively fair skin. But although both were at a relatively low stage of development, the black natives were complete savages.

Lots of blacks and curly

On major islands, where the Negritos coexisted with the Polynesians, travelers from Europe were struck by the contrast. The Polynesians, against their background, seemed to be quite developed tribes. Europeans were just surprised that black dwarfs were completely unwilling to adopt the cultural achievements of their neighbors and vehemently defend their way of life. They naively thought that these short people were simply unable to learn from the experience of others.

Today, there is a very strong opinion on this matter. Little black people, along with Indian Veddoids, once populated all of Southeast Asia. They belonged to the first wave of immigrants from Africa, who preserved the culture of their relatives on the Black Continent. Given that the exodus from Africa took place almost 100 thousand years ago, their relatives were in a state of deepest savagery. This level of savagery was preserved by black settlers in its original form. And when more developed waves of immigrants came from the same Africa, the little black people were forced to retreat and retreat. They were forced out of the Asian mainland, and they began to retreat to the south - to lands that later turned into islands. It is believed that then the future islands were connected by land bridges up to Australia.

Black-skinned savages survived their exodus and laid the foundation for many island peoples - Andamanese, Filipinos (Aeta), Semangs, Tapiros, New Caledonians, Melanesians, Australian aborigines and barrines. But even on the islands they were overtaken by new waves of immigrants who stood at a higher level of development. And the black natives had no choice but to retreat again. Only on the islands it was more difficult to do this. And they retreated to islands not yet inhabited or deep into the lands where this trouble caught them. Gradually, the negritos found themselves either on the most remote and useless islands, or in such inaccessible and wild places where more civilized neighbors would never want to settle.

These peoples are in such a state even today. I must say, the neighbors have not the most pleasant opinion about them. And there is a reason...

natural born cannibals

You probably read about the Andamanese in your childhood in Arthur Conan Doyle's The Sign of the Four: “They are very ugly. They have a large, irregularly shaped head, tiny, evil eyes, and repulsive features. Their arms and legs are remarkably small. They are so vicious and savage that all the efforts of the British authorities to tame them have always ended in failure. They have always been a storm of castaways. When captured, they usually kill with stone-tipped clubs or poisoned arrows. The massacre, as a rule, ends with a cannibal feast. The main villain of this story is accompanied by an Andaman native devoted to him.

And although, due to the politically correct, it is not customary to talk about the bad customs of the islanders, many negritos still have a great addiction to cannibalism. In any case, even 20 years ago, ethnographers had to take part in special meals of little black natives. In some tribes, it was customary to eat more civilized neighbors, with whom the natives fought short wars. In others, they killed their own compatriots, very often children. Among the natives, there was an initiation rite, which consisted in the fact that a young man entering adulthood had to kill the enemy, cut off his head, boil it and present it as a gift to the elders of the tribe. The gift to the bride looked similar - the same boiled and dried head. Moreover, not a single girl of the tribe would give consent to marriage until the applicant for her hand proved that he was a real man - that is, without cut off enemy heads, there was nothing to hope for.

Cannibalism flourished even where the natives had no neighbors. There, the custom was transformed into eating the flesh of the dead. Often, at first, the dead were bitterly mourned, carried from hut to hut, even buried in the ground, and then exhumed and eaten. They ate, of course, and strangers. If the natives were lucky and a ship was in distress near the islands, the survivors were finished off and their bodies were tied by the legs to a pole stuck in the seabed - so as not to be carried away by the current. The shipwreck was considered by the natives a great holiday, when you can eat plenty of human meat. When there were many dead, the bodies were boiled, smoked and harvested for future use. It must be said that it was not only negritos who sinned with cannibalism. But it was with them that this custom lingered for a very long time. It was fought (and for the most part unsuccessfully) first by the British and Dutch colonizers, and then by local governments. Cannibalism persists today, especially in remote areas. For example, in the Philippines there are mountainous areas where tourists are not allowed.

However, the natives are very reluctant to integrate into modern civilization. They try not to contact their neighbors, live very isolated, cherish their customs and do not allow strangers into their environment. They also have a difficult relationship with local authorities.

One of the Andaman Islands, North Sentinel Island, which is officially part of India, is inhabited by people standing at such a low stage of development that the authorities decided never to visit it and not to send officials there. No one knows what is happening on this island. It is small - only 72 square kilometers and no more than 500 inhabitants. All attempts by officials to land on the island failed
failure - spears were thrown at them and arrows were sent, and 10 years ago, when the natives decided that the fishermen had violated the border of their territory, they killed two people. The Government of India sent a helicopter to the island to deliver the bodies for burial, but the helicopter was attacked by a hail of arrows. And although the pilots assured that they saw the bodies of the unfortunate, laid in shallow graves, this does not mean that the fishermen were buried. It may well be that after a short “exposure”, human meat was taken out of the graves and eaten, especially since the island is very poor in fauna and the natives eat mainly fish and other seafood.

Paradise for ethnographers

Of course, not all Negritos avoid contact with civilization. Some natives managed to "fit" into the framework of modern society. But only partially. The civilization of the Negritos in the Philippines looks like this.

They hunt mainly with spears or bows, drive animals into traps, and gather. Occasionally, primitive agriculture is used - sweet potatoes are sown. The clothing of the natives is minimal - a narrow loincloth or apron (for women). But the whole body is tattooed and decorated with pig hair bracelets. Among the natives, general illiteracy flourishes. Their faith is ordinary - pagan. However, the tribes govern themselves in a special way. They put a Christian mayor at the head of the community, to whom the negritos policemen obey. And the alcalde himself submits to the mayor of the town closest to the tribe. In fact, the alcalde simply reports on the work done, and the tribe lives its own life. At the right age, boys are initiated, and at the right age, they get married. Moreover, since the role of a hunter is more important than the role of a gatherer of roots, girls eat worse and die more often. And with women, negritos have a problem. They are few. So the groom pays for the bride a huge ransom by local standards. Life passes in a constant struggle with disasters and hunger.

But ethnographers really enjoy visiting the natives. For them, this is a journey into the Stone Age.

Nikolai Kotomkin

Andamans are the indigenous population of the Andaman Islands (India), a living relic of the Stone Age that has survived to the present. By now, there are only a few hundred left. The Andamanese are believed to be the descendants of the first African migrants who left their home continent 60,000 years ago. Like some other tribes of Southeast Asia, they belong to the so-called negritos type of the Australoid race, the hallmark of which is the extremely low growth of its representatives - no more than 150 cm in adult men; also, the Andamanese are the only group outside of Africa that has female steatopygia.

Some Andamanese tribes have already disappeared (as it is believed due to diseases that came to them from outside), and two of the surviving tribes - the Jarawa and the Sentinelese - were isolated from the outside world until the end of the 20th century.

The Jarawa tribe for a long time rejected contact with researchers and the Indian population of the South Andaman Island, until the 1970s, only a few photos were taken with representatives of this tribe.


But the researchers were able to find the "key to the heart" of this tribe - free coconuts became the key: explorers' boats sailed from the sea to the Jarawa settlement and immediately threw coconuts into the water. which the Jaravians, of course, picked up.


In such a simple way, the Jarawa, convinced of the safety of their communication with other people, made contact with civilization and soon, without any fear and aggression, they allowed researchers to visit them - here are photo and video evidence of those meetings:

Now the Jarawa have finally abandoned their isolated existence and, without any fear, began to come to the villages of Indian peasants - to beg, and without knowing it, they gradually began to turn into an object of interest for travel companies.

But the inhabitants of the island of North Sentinel turned out to be a tougher nut to crack. It should be noted that the Sentinelese completely control their island with an area of ​​72 sq. km, and do not allow any of the strangers to enter it - to protect their territory, the tribe uses such weapons as a bow and poisoned arrows; so, in the 2000s, they killed several fishermen who landed on their island.

In the past, researchers have repeatedly made attempts to make contact with the Sentinelese - like the Jarawa, they tried to tame them by dropping coconuts from boats.


The Sentinelese picked up coconuts, but did not make further contact, and later reacted rather aggressively to an attempt to descend on their island - for example, in 2001 they even tried to fire arrows at an Indian Coast Guard helicopter. conducted a census of the population of the island.


After some time, the researchers stopped disturbing the Sentinelese and they still live quietly on their own island of 72 square kilometers, and the outside world had to come to terms with such amazing island sovereignty.

The beautiful dark emerald waters of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands are surrounded by pristine jungle and mangrove forest; white sandy beaches melt under the rays of crimson sunsets; friendly people - immigrants from South and Southeast Asia and ethnic groups of blacks, whose appearance on the islands is still an anthropological mystery. The geographical location of the Andamans is rather Southeast Asia: 150 km from Indonesia and 190 km from Myanmar, which is even more intriguing.

The Nicobar Islands are closed to tourists, but there are still hundreds of islands to explore.

Story

When the first settlers appeared on the Andamans and Nicobars, it is not known. According to anthropologists, stone tools have existed here for 2000 years. And experts on human migration believe that the local tribes are from Southeast Asia, from the Negrito and Malay ethnic groups. In other words, the islands have become an inexhaustible source of legends for foreigners.

The word "Andaman" is thought to be derived from the name of the monkey god Hanuman, who Hindus believe used the islands as a bridge between India and Sri Lanka. According to anthropologists, stone tools have existed here for 2000 years, but it is not known exactly when the first settlers appeared here.

The Persian traveler Buzurg Ibn Shahriyar wrote in the 10th century about a chain of islands inhabited by cannibals; later Marco Polo added that the natives had dog heads, and those found in Thanjavur (ex. Tanjore) that in the state of Tmilnad the archipelago was called Timaittivu - "dirty islands".

This information, of course, is not for a tourist brochure, but nevertheless, travelers continued to arrive: at the end of the 17th century, the Marathas, and 200 years later, the British, who used the Andaman Islands as a penal colony for political criminals. During the Second World War, some of the islanders welcomed the invasion of the Japanese military, seeing them as liberators. Despite the formation (puppet) governments of Indian politicians, the Japanese proved to be brutal conquerors.

After the independence of India in 1947, the Andaman and Nicobar Islands became part of the Indian Union. After migrating from the mainland (including Bengali refugees who fled the post-separation chaos) The population of the islands increased from a few thousand to 350,000 people. During this migration, the rights of the tribes, as well as the protection of the environment, were often neglected. And, although there is some improvement now, the situation of the native tribes still leaves much to be desired.

In 2004, the islands were devastated by an Indian Ocean earthquake, coastal aftershocks and subsequent tsunami. The Nicobar Islands were particularly hard hit: by some estimates, a fifth of the population died here, someone moved to Port Blair, and many of them still have not returned. Despite the fact that now life has returned to normal, and tourists have returned with it, there are places like Small Andaman, which guests are still in no hurry to visit (By the way, check it out).

Climate

Thanks to the sea breeze, the temperature in the Andaman and Nicobar Islands is maintained here within the range of 23-31 ° C, and the humidity is 80% all year round. It's very humid here when the southwesterly wind blows. (wet) monsoon - somewhere from mid-May to early October, and in November-December, the northeastern (dry) monsoon.

Geography and nature

The Andaman and Nicobar Islands form the Arakan Mountains, a range that begins in Eastern Myanmar (Burma) and stretches across the ocean to Sumatra in Indonesia.

The isolation of the islands has led to the evolution of many plants and animals, characteristic only for this area. Of the 62 mammals found here, 32 live only on these islands, among them the Andaman wild pig, crabeater macaque, Himalayan civet, several species of tupaya and bats. Of the 250 species of birds that live here, almost 50% can be found only in the Andamans and Nicobars, including the Nicobar bigfoot, salangan and the emerald Nicobar pigeon. Turtles lay their eggs on deserted beaches, and combed crocodiles wait in the rivers for prey. You can often see dolphins here, but dugongs, which used to be abundant in this area, are now almost never seen.

Mangrove trees form a protective barrier between sea and land. Valuable species of trees grow in the forests, for example, the famous paduk - hardwood with light and dark textures.

Things to do

Thanks to a certain isolation, transparent clear waters, magnificent corals and a variety of underwater world The Andaman Islands are considered one of the best diving spots in the world.

The main season for divers lasts from November to April, but people come here in the summer during the rainy season (June August), however, they go closer to the coast. Basically, the most favorable conditions for diving are formed in September and October. The only thing to consider is the rain.

Local diving centers offer scuba diving training courses (from 4000 rupees), courses on open water PADI (Rs 18,000) and advanced courses (Rs 13,500), as well as Divemaster training. Prices vary depending on location, number of participants and duration of the course. In general, you can dive in the Andaman Islands from a boat for 2000/3500 rupees for one / two dives. In national parks, you have to pay an additional 500 rupees per person per day.

Havelock Island is located far from the main diving centers, although the appropriate equipment and equipment can be found on Neil and South Andaman. See the relevant sections for more details.

It is much easier and cheaper to organize snorkeling lessons. Havelock Island is one of the best snorkeling destinations, with boat trips to reefs and islands not otherwise accessible in almost all tourist spots. You can also enjoy excellent snorkeling at Neil Island and Kalipura.

Due to recent coral bleaching, some reefs have been damaged, but despite this, diving here remains world-class, and more and more places are opening up.

Information

Despite the fact that the Andaman Islands are located a thousand kilometers from the mainland, they live here according to Indian time. Therefore, at 5 pm it is already dark here, and at 4 am it is already light, so people here usually get up quite early. All phone numbers you need to dial with the area code - 03192, even when calling locally. Andaman & Nicobar Tourism (IP 232747; www.tourism.andaman.nic.in; Kamarai Road (Kamaraj Road), Port Blair; 8:30-13:00 and 14:00-17:00 Mon-Fri, 8:30-12:00 Sat) Grab the helpful Emerald Islands travel booklet (100 rupees) here or at the airport.

Accommodation

The prices in this chapter are for the middle season. (from October 1 to April 30, excluding high season). Prices rise sharply during peak season (from December 15 to January 15). May to September is the low season. Camping is currently prohibited on public lots and in the islands' national parks.

Permission

Most government officials from the mainland do their two-year service in Port Blair. Due to such staff turnover, be prepared for unexpected changes in the rules and regulations for issuing permits.

All foreigners must obtain a permit to visit the Andaman Islands, which is issued free of charge upon arrival. 30-day permit allows tourists to stay in Port Blair, South and Middle Andaman , on North Andaman (Diglipur), on Long Island, North Passage, Little Andaman (excluding native territories), on the islands of Havelock and Neil. You can extend the permit for 15 days as in the immigration office in Port Blair (03192-239247; 8:30-13:00 and 14:00-17:30 Monday to Friday, Saturdays until 13:00), and at the police station on Havelock.

This permit also allows day visits to the Jolly Boy Islands. (lolly Buoy), South Sink (South Cinque), Red Skin (Red Skin), Ross, Narcondam (Narcon-dam), Interview (Interview) and Rutland, as well as the Brothers (brothers) and Sisters (Sisters).

To obtain a permit, tourists arriving by plane must present their passport and fill out a form upon arrival at Port Blair Airport. Permits are usually valid for a maximum of 30 days (be sure to check).

Tourists arriving by ship are usually met by an immigration officer at the port. Otherwise, you must go to the immigration office at Haddo Pier immediately upon arrival. (Haddo Jetty). Keep the permit for the entire duration of the trip - without it you will not be able to move around the islands. The police often ask you to show permission, especially when you go ashore on their island, and you also need to provide it when you check in at the hotel. Check current sea travel regulations at any of the following services: Andaman & Nicobar Tourism (03192-238473)

Chennai Foreign Citizens Registration Service (044-23454970, 044-28278210) ; Kolkata (033-22470549, 033-22473300)

Shipping Corporation of India (SCI; www.shipindia.com) chennai (044-5231401; Jawahar Bldg, 6 Rajaji Salai); Kolkata (033-2482354; 1st floor, 13 Strand Rd)

National parks and reserves

Additional permits are required to visit some national parks and reserves. The Tourist Board in Port Blair has a branch of the Department of Forestry (9:00-15:00 Monday-Friday, until 13:00 Saturday), where you can find out if a permit is required to visit a particular island, how you can get it, how much the service costs and whether it is possible to get it at all.

If you're planning something complicated, you'll be sent to the Chief Wildlife Warden (CWW; 233321; Haddo Road, Port Blair; 8:30-12:00 and 13:00-16:00 Monday-Friday), where is your application, consisting of a letter stating the essence of your case, the name of the ship and the dates of the visit. If you do everything in accordance with the requirements, in less than an hour you will be issued a permit.

With most day permits, the problem isn't so much red tape as it is price. Permission to visit areas such as the Marine National Park. Mahatma Gandhi (Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park), Ross and Smith Islands near Diglipur, costs Rs 50/500 for Indian citizens/foreigners. A permit to visit Saddle Peak National Park, also near Diglipur, costs 25/250 rupees.

Students who have a valid student card with them will be charged the minimum fee, so don't forget your student card.

The Nicobar Islands are closed to everyone except Indians involved in research, government work, trade.

The road to the Andaman Islands and back

Airplane

Arriving in Port Blair daily flights from Delhi, Kolkata and Chennai, although the flight from Delhi and Kolkata very often passes through Chennai. A round trip ticket costs from US$250 to US$500, depending on the time of booking. Some airlines offer one-way flights for as little as US$80, but tickets need to be booked months in advance. At the time of the study, Kingfisher Airlines had the cheapest last minute tickets to the islands. (1800 2093030; www.flykingfisher.com). You can also use the services of Air India (Chennai 0044-28554747; Kolkata 033-22117879; Port Blair 03192-233108; www.airindia.com) and JetLite (Chennai 080-39893333; Kolkata 033-25110901; Port Blair 003192-242707; www.jetlite.com).

There are no direct flights from Port Blair to South East Asia, although at the time of research, the schedule was chartered flight from Kuala Lumpur. But don't count on it too much.

Motor ship

Someone thinks that the infamous ships in Port Blair are "the only real way to get to the Andaman Islands", while someone thinks that these are just unnecessary difficulties. The truth is somewhere in the middle. Between Port Blair and mainland India there are usually 4-6 flights monthly: every other week from Kolkata (travel time 56 hours), once a week (in high season) from Chennai (60 hours), once a month from Vizag (56 hours). In Chennai, you can book tickets through the Deputy Head of Transportation (044-252268/3; Rajaji Salai, Chennai Port). Shipping Corporation of India (SCI; www.shipindia.com; 033-22482354 in Kolkata, 0891-2565597 in Vizag) sends flights from Kolkata and Vizag. Flight schedules are flexible, so please call ahead. All ferries from the mainland land at Haddo Pier.

(Phoenix Bay)

Don't take the travel time entirely for granted: Tourists have reported spending nearly 12 hours aboard a ship in the harbor at Kolkata, while others near Port Blair have waited several hours before landing. Due to delays and various sea and weather conditions, the journey may take 3-4 days. A round trip ticket can be purchased at the Phoenix Bay Ferry Ticket Office. (Phoenix Bay). You will need 2 passport photos and a photocopy of your authorization. Please visit www.and.nic.in/spsch/sailing.htm for updated information on prices and tariffs.

Classifications of places on different ships differ little. Most cheap place on a bunk bed costs 1700 - 1960 rupees, then class 2 cabins B - 3890 rupees, class 2 cabins A - 5030 rupees, then class 1 cabins - 6320 rupees, luxury cabins - 7640 rupees. Akbar also has air-conditioned dormitories, where a bed costs Rs 3,290. Tickets for more expensive seats cost the same as the plane, if not more. If you have chosen a shared cabin, be prepared to wake up to the chorus of people “sniffling” and snorting, the almost complete lack of personal space and the toilet, which after three days of travel is ... unpleasant to enter. But on the other hand, this great way get to know the locals.

Nutrition (local snacks for breakfast, thali for lunch and dinner) costs about 150 rupees a day and almost always contains rice. Take something with you on the road (especially fruits) to diversify your diet. Some bedding is provided, however if you are traveling in a shared cabin please bring your own sheet. Many travelers take hammocks with them and stretch them on the deck.

Officially, there are no ferries between Port Blair and Thailand, but try to hire one of the yachts on this route. You cannot legally cross from the Andaman Islands to Myanmar (Burma) by sea, although it is said that someone managed to do this on their own boat. But be careful: being caught for such an attempt by the Indian or Burmese fleet, you risk ending up in prison or even worse.

Bad weather can seriously mess up your plans: if the sea is too rough, ferry flights are cancelled. Have a couple of days in reserve in case you miss your flight as a result of a delay on the island (Though maybe it's not always so bad...).

Moving around the islands

Airplane

A helicopter runs between the islands. From Port Blair it flies to Little Andaman (Rs 1488, 35 minutes, Tue, Fri and Sat), Havelock Island (850 rupees, 20 minutes) and Diglipur via Mayabunder (Rs 2125 or 1915 from Mayabunder, one hour). Preference here is given to civil servants and passengers with luggage less than 5 kg, which prevents most tourists from using this service. Although you can try your luck by submitting an application to the Secretariat (230093) in Port Blair and returning to see if you were lucky at 16:00.

Ferry

Most of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands can only be reached by water. It sounds romantic, of course, but ferry ticket offices are a real hell: be prepared for waiting in the heat, slow service, trying to skip the line and brawls at the ticket office window. To keep your place in the queue and advance in it, you must either behave a little aggressively (but don't be a jerk) or be a woman (women's lines are a great success, however, they only happen in Port Blair). You can buy tickets on the day of your trip by arriving at the pier an hour before your trip, but this is quite risky in high season, and there are no guarantees on Havelock all year round. In cities like Rangat, ferry ticket office hours are fluctuating and unreliable. At the time of the study, there was a requirement to provide a copy of the permit. Arrange this before arrival.

There are regular sea services to Havelock and Neil Islands, as well as to Rangat, Mayabunder, Diglipur and Little Andaman. If all else fails, there are still fishermen who are willing to take you for 2000 rupees, for example, from Port Blair to Havelock. Timetables for boats between the islands can be found at www.and.nic.in/spsch/iisailing.htm.

Bus

All roads (and ferries) lead to Port Blair, and you will certainly spend a day or two here, booking a future trip. The main group of islands - South, Middle and North Andaman - are connected by road, ferries and bridges. Cheap public and expensive private buses run from Port Blair south to Bandur (wandor) and north to Bharatang (Bharatang), Rangat, Mayabunder and finally Diglipur, 325 km north of the capital. Around 15:00, most of the Jarawa reserve is closed to traffic, so buses whose route lies through it depart from 4:00 to 11:00.

Private jeeps and minivans

Cars run from village to village, and you can get in and out of them throughout the route. You can also rent the whole car at an inflated price.

Train

You can get a train ticket to the mainland at the railway ticket office (233042; 8:00-12:30 and 13:00-14:00) located in the Secretariat office south of Aberdeen Bazaar (Aberdeen Bazaar) in Port Blair. Hotel owners can provide their guests with all the necessary information on this issue.

Islanders

Indigenous peoples of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands make up only 12% of the population, and in most cases this percentage is declining. Onge, Sentinelese, Andamanese and Jarawa are tribes belonging to the Negritos ethnic group, which is very similar to African peoples. Sadly, over the past century, many tribes have died out. In February 2010, the last member of the Bo tribe died, taking their language with them and putting an end to the history of the people, which lasted 65,000 years.

Onge

Two-thirds of Onge Island in Little Andaman was placed under the jurisdiction of the Department of Forestry and settled in 1977. About 100 remaining members of the Onge tribe are limited to two reservations with an area of ​​25 square kilometers: Dugong Creek (Dugong Creek) and South Bay (South Bay). According to anthropologists, the decrease in the number of onge was due to a decrease in the morale of its representatives, associated with the loss of territories.

Sentinelese

Unlike other tribes living on this island, the Sentinelese resist contact with the outside world. For years, delegations have come to the shores of North Sentinel Island, last stronghold Sentinelese, carrying gifts of coconuts, bananas, pigs, and red plastic buckets to get hit by a hail of arrows. Although some natives were not so hostile. There are currently about 150 Sentinelese left.

Andamanese

Now the number of Andamanese is only about 50 people, and it seems that this tribe will not be able to avoid extinction. In the middle of the 19th century, there were about 7,000 Andamanese, but friendship with the colonialists led the tribe to death: by 1971, its number was reduced to 19 people due to epidemics of measles, syphilis and influenza. The Andamans were resettled in tiny island Straight.

Jarawa

Currently, the 350 remaining Jarawa live on the 639 sq. km on the islands of the South and Middle Andamans. In 1953, the chief commissioner proposed to bomb the Jarawa settlements, and their territories were destroyed due to the Andaman highway, deforestation and the invasion of invaders and tourists. Most Jarawa are hostile.

Chompen

Only about 250 shompen remained in the forests on Great Nicobar. This semi-nomadic hunter-gatherer tribe lives along river banks. They resisted integration and are now avoiding the territories occupied by immigrants from India.

Nicobars

The Nicobarese are the only tribe whose population is not declining and is 30,000 people. Most of them converted to Christianity and almost assimilated into modern Indian society. They live in villages where they raise pigs and grow coconuts, sweet potatoes and bananas. The Nicobars, who probably descended from the peoples who inhabited Malaysia and Myanmar, live on several islands of the Nicobar group centered on Car Nicobar (Car Nicobar), the region most affected by the 2004 tsunami.

Be careful with corals!

In general, snorkeling in the Andaman Islands should only be done during high tide. At low tide, you can accidentally step on the coral, which can irrevocably destroy this delicate organism. Even a touch with a flipper can hurt. In addition, you risk getting a painful sting from a sea urchin thorn when you set foot on the bottom. Divers should take extra care when diving near reefs. A serious impact with coral in full gear can cause environmental damage.

Port Blair

Green, calm, sometimes attractive Port Blair - the capital of the Andaman Islands - a vibrant combination of cultures such as Bengalis, Tamils, Nicobars, Burmese and Telugu. Most tourists don't stay here for long. (usually one or two days to book onward travel or go home), and at full speed rush straight to the islands. While Port Blair can't compete with the beaches of Havelock, the city's fascinating history has contributed to its outstanding attractions.

Most Port Blair hotels are located in the Aberdeen Bazaar area. The airport is located 4 km south of the city. Typically, middle-class housing is fully redeemed for the period from September to December and is included in tour packages to India.

Attractions Port Blair

Cellular Jail National Memorial (GB Pant Road (GB Pant Rd); entrance 10 rupees photo/video shooting 25/100 rupees; 8:45-12:30 and 13:30-17:00 Tue-Sun) This is a former British prison, and now a museum dedicated to all the political prisoners who once served time here. The Cellular Jail is worth a visit to understand the importance of the Andaman Islands in Indian history. The construction of the prison began in 1896 and ended in 1906. Initially, in seven buildings (some of which were destroyed by the Japanese army during World War II), diverging like rays from central tower, there were 698 cameras. Like many political prisons, the Honeycomb Prison became a kind of university for freedom fighters, who were awaited by dungeons and guards for their books, ideas and disputes.

Here on Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays at 18:45 musical and light performances are arranged. (entrance for adults/children 20/10 rupees) in English.

Anthropological Museum (03192-232291; MG Road (MG Rd); entrance 10 rupees; 9:00-13:00 and 13:30-16:30 Fri-Wed) This is the best museum in Port Blair, and the tribes that inhabit the islands are described in great detail. The glass display cases may be outdated, but they are nowhere near as ancient as the Jarawa breastplate decorated with simple geometric patterns, or the skull left under the Sentinelt canopy, or the totem spirits represented by Nicobar shamanic sculptures. Brochure for sale in the gift shop (20 rupees) about Aboriginal culture, written by local anthropologists.

Maritime Museum of Samudrik (Haddo Road (Haddo Road); entrance for adults / children 20/10 rupees, photo / video shooting 20/50 rupees; 9:00-13:00 and 14:00-17:00 Tue-Sun) The museum was founded by the Indian Navy. A variety of exhibits are exhibited here, telling about the ecosystem of the islands, their indigenous population, plants, animals, marine life. The museum has a small aquarium. Outside, there is a skeleton of a blue whale washed ashore on the Nicobar Island of Kamorta. (Kamorta Island).

Chatham sawmill (admission 10 rupees; 8:30-14:30 Mon-Sat) The factory, located on Chatham Island, which is connected to Port Blair by a road bridge, was built by the British in 1836. It was one of the largest timber processing enterprises in Asia. The plant is still operating, and although not everyone likes it (especially environmentalists), a visit here is an interesting excursion into the history and economy of the island. There is also a huge crater left from a bomb that the Japanese dropped during World War II, and a rather dull museum of the forest.

Nobody goes to Port Blair for the beach, but if you still need to lie on the sand, Corbin Bay, 7 km south of the city, is the best option. Very popular with locals and tourists, this small stretch of coast hidden behind palm trees is a great place to swim and sunbathe. The cost of a trip from the city by autorickshaw is 200 rupees. On the other hand, in addition to being a great way to travel along the coast road, you can see many Japanese bunkers left over from the Second World War.

Burmese Buddhist mission - small bell-shaped stupa (tomb), perhaps not very impressive, but it is an example of Burmese Buddhist architecture, unusual in India, and also a reminder that geographically you are closer to Southeast Asia than Hindustan.

Information

Port Blair is the only place in the Andamans where you can change currency or travelers checks. ATMs are installed throughout the city, and the Western Union office is located in the post office. Aberdeen Bazaar has several internet access points.

Aberdeen Police Station (03192-232400; MG Road (MG Rd))

Andaman & Nicobar Tourism (1P 232694; www.tourism.andaman.nic.in; Kamaraj Road Kamaraj Rd); 8:30-13:00 and 14:00-17:00 Mon-Fri, 8:30-12:00 Sat) The main island tour operator. Here you can book public housing and get permits to visit wild places. The staff is kind and unhurried.

e-Cafe (Internet at hour 30; 8:00-00:00) In Aberdeen Bazaar, right in front of the clock tower.

GB Pant Hospital (03192-233473, 232102; GB Pant Rd)

Main Postal office (MG Road (MG Rd); 9:00-19:00 Mon-Sat)

State Bank of India (MA Road MA Rd); 9:00-12:00 and 13:00-15:00 Mon-Fri, 10:00-12:00 Sat) Here you can exchange travelers checks and currency.

Neighborhoods of Port Blair and South Andaman

Ross Island

Visit Ross Island (not to be confused with the island of the same name in North Andaman)- it's like finding a Lost City hidden in the jungle like Angkor Wat; however, the ruins here are more Victorian than Khmer. To the former headquarters of the British government in the Andaman - Ross Islands (permit Rs 20)- half a day's journey from Port Blair. At one time, little Ross was affectionately called the "Paris of the East" (along with Pondicherry, Saigon, etc.). But the pretty name, the social life, and the tropical gardens were all destroyed in a double whammy in 1941: an earthquake and the Japanese invasion. (who left behind several machine gun nests that have become a local landmark).

Today, old English buildings can still be found, despite the fact that they were almost completely swallowed up by the green wave of the rapidly growing jungle. There is a small hole with exhibits and photographs of Ross Island from its heyday, and a small park where deer nibble leaves from the bushes.

Ferries to Ross Island (75 rupees, 20 minutes on the way) depart from the pier behind the Port Blair Aquarium at 8:30, 10:30, 12:30 and 14:00 every day except Wednesday. Please check the timetable when purchasing your ticket, as tides can affect the departure time.

You can also take the ferry to Viper Island at 9:30 (75 rupees), where you will see the remains of the gallows built by the British in 1867. But to be honest, this is not the most memorable excursion.

Wandur and Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park

Bandur is a small village 29 km southeast of Port Blair. There is a pretty beach here, although swimming was prohibited at the time of the survey due to sightings of crocodiles in the area. But more Bandur is known as a starting point for a trip to the Marine National Park. mahatmas (Indian/foreigner Rs 50/500). Spread over an area of ​​280 sq. km, it occupies 15 islands with mangroves, tropical forests and reefs, home to 50 species of corals. There are two places for sporkling in the park: Jolly Boy (November 1 - May 15) and Red Skin (May 16 - October 30). Accessible by popular daytime flight from Bandura Pier (Rs 450; Tue-Sun). Still, if your Andaman itinerary includes the Havelock or Neil Islands, it may be easier and cheaper to go scuba diving there - of course, if you are not going to pay crazy money. It’s just that ships don’t stay here for a long time, and you simply won’t have time to swim to your heart’s content. If you want to explore the region thoroughly, we advise you to contact Lacadives (9679532104; www.lacadives.com). There are several hotels in Vandoor. Permits can be obtained at Bandura Wharf or at the Tourist Office in Port Blair.

Buses from Port Blair to Bandur (12 rupees, 1.5 hours).

Chiriyatapu

Chiria Tapu is located 30 km from Port Blair. This is a small village with beaches and manf trees. 2km south you will find the best snorkeling outside of Havelock and Neil. This is a great place to watch the sunsets. There are 7 buses from Port Blair daily. (^10, 1.5 hours). You can also get here by ship from Sink Island. New biological park (Indian/Foreigner Rs 20/50; 9:00-16:00 Tue-Sun) not completed yet (planned to be completed in 2015), but here in the forest there are already several spacious naturally fenced areas where crocodiles, deer and warthogs live.

Sink Island

The uninhabited islands of North and South Sinca, connected by a sandbar, are part of the wildlife sanctuary in the south of Bandura. The islands are surrounded by coral reefs and are considered the most beautiful in the Andamans.

Day visits are allowed here. But, if you are not coming from travel agencies that periodically arrange group tours here, you should get permission to visit the Chief Wildlife Warden in advance. The islands can be reached by ship from Chiria Tapu (2 hours) or from Bandura (3.5 hours). Here, a permit to visit the Marine is considered valid. national park them. Mahatma Gande (Indian/foreigner Rs 50/500).

Havelock Island

White sandy beaches, turquoise shoals, dark jungles, shack-lined shores, a plethora of tourists from all over the world - this is Havelock, a tropical gem of budget tourism. In a few years, it will correspond in status to the Thai Koh Phangan (Ko Pha-Ngan) except for the nightlife. Here, in coastal hotels and resorts, a rather hectic life is in full swing, but it never comes to crazy parties under the moon. In addition to idleness, Havelock offers diving and snorkeling activities, and many tourists spend most of their time here in the Andaman Islands.

What to see and do

Havelock is the main island for scuba diving enthusiasts in the Andamans. There is no shortage of dive operators along the main tourist road. You just need to chat with some and choose the one you like the most.

The snorkeling here is simply amazing. The best way to go diving is to order dungi through the hotel (wooden boat). The trip costs from 1000 to 2000 rupees depending on the number of participants, distance, etc. -if there are many people in the group, you can be charged only 250 rupees. Snorkeling equipment can be easily obtained on Havelock - in hotels, restaurants - but usually it is of rather low quality.

Fishing is another popular activity here. It is also better to organize it through the hotel. There are several sport fishing operators in the city.

Some hotels organize jungle walks for lovers hiking and bird watching. Be careful, after the rain the soil in the forest is very eroded. From within a tropical forest is a delightful emerald cave and bird watching (especially on the edge)- a rewarding job. Note the blue-black racket-tailed drongo with its amazing tail and, for contrast, the brightly colored oriole.

Approximately 5 km from village No. 5 is Kalapathar, where there is an elephant training camp. At the time of the study, it was planned to arrange demonstrations of elephants at work. Beyond Kalapathar, the road passes another unspoiled beach and then gradually gets lost in the forest.

The most beautiful and popular sandy beach is the much praised Radha Nagar, also known as Beach No. 7. White sand, a perfect spiral of the sea wave, forest, as in the picture - this is Radha Nagar. What about sunsets? Yes, they are just great! The road to the beach, located in the northwest of the island, 12 km from the pier, lies through the inner part of Havelock - a green dream (an auto rickshaw will take you around 150 rupees). Or, if you like, you can get here from village number 1 by bus. 10 minutes northwest of the beach you will find a magnificent "lagoon" at Neil Bay, another paradise with pristine sand and clear water. In 2010, a crocodile attack happened here, so it might be worth clarifying how safe it is to swim here. In high season, you can ride elephants (adults/children Rs 25/15; 11:00-14:00 Mon-Sat) along the beach, posing and “cheesy” smiling for a photo.

elephant beach (Elephant Beach) Elephant Beach, a great place for snorkeling, is further north. Go to him for about forty minutes along the path laid by elephants. There are signs on the road, but after the rain it is quite difficult to go. The beach itself literally disappeared after the tsunami in 2004, and is now impossible to reach during high tides. Lifeguards are on duty on the shore, who make a remark to everyone who litters (God help them!).

Where to stay and where to eat

Most Havelock hotels are beach houses. They all claim to be "eco-houses" ("eco" obviously means "cheap building material"), but it is excellent value for money, especially in the low season.

All of the listed accommodations offer a tolerable tourist-oriented menu of Western and Indian cuisine. If you want something traditionally Indian, go to the food stalls in the city (Village No. 1) or the main market (Village No. 3). There is a liquor store in village number 1.

Almost all housing is located on the east coast between villages #2 and #5.

crocodiles

The tragic death of an American tourist on Havelock in April 2010, who was attacked by a saltwater crocodile while snorkeling, shocked the entire public. In many areas of the Andaman Islands, crocodiles have become part of everyday life, but in Neila Bay near Radha Nagar, where the incident occurred, crocodiles have not been seen before. Moreover, the attack took place in open ocean on coral reefs, which is considered extremely unusual. There is a lot of speculation how the crocodile ended up there. He was most likely expelled from his habitat in the mangroves in the western part of the island after losing a battle for territory. As a result, the crocodile was caught (now in the zoo in Port Blair). Since then, these reptiles have not been seen here, but this place is still treated with a great deal of caution. According to the general opinion, this was an isolated case and should not scare away people who want to swim here. However, it's important that you stay informed. Heed the warnings from the authorities, do not swim alone in the western part of the island and stay out of the water at sunset and at night.

This warning also applies to places like Corbina Bay, Wandour Beach, Baratang and all of Little Andaman.

Information

Village #3 has two ATMs side by side. You can also use extremely slow internet here. (80 per hour).

The road there and back

Ferry schedules vary, but there are always direct flights from Port Blair to Havelock and back, at least once a day, but usually two or more times. (ticket for a foreigner 195 rupees, 2.5 hours). It is best to book your ticket at least a day before your trip. The ticket office is open from 9.00 to 11.00. You can also take the more comfortable Makruzz ferry. (from 650 rupees, two hours).

Several government ferries a week run between Havelock and Neil (Rs 195). It is also the most convenient way get to Long Island (Rs 195), which, moreover, stops in Rangat, from where you can proceed by bus further to North Andaman.

Moving around the island

local bus (7 rupees) walks between the pier and the villages about once an hour, but here it is useful to get your own transport. You can rent mopeds or motorcycles (from 250 rupees per day) and bicycles (from 40 to 50 rupees per day) in your hotel or village no.3.

Neil Island

Conveniently nestled in the shadow of its more famous neighbour, Neil has everything you need to relax and more. Its beaches may not be as luxurious as Havelock's, but it's spacious and has great cycling routes. The pace of life here is unhurried. During cycling through the picturesque villages, both small and adult locals will greet you in a friendly way. From Neil Island about 40 km to Port Blair, a short ferry ride to Havelock and a few universes back home.

At the time of the study, there was no Internet and there was nowhere to change currency. There is a post office on the territory of the bazaar.

What to see and do

There are five beaches on Neil Island (numbered 1 to 5) each with its own unique charm.

Beach number 1 is the prettiest and most accessible. Located 40 minutes walk west of the marina and village. At high tide, you can do the best snorkeling on the island near the coral reef in the far (western) end of the beach. Inside the Pearl Park Resort there is a great place to watch sunsets. early evening tourists and locals gather here.

Beach number 2 is located in the northern part of the island. Here the rocks form a natural bridge, which can be reached at low tide by walking around the rocky bay. To get here by bike, take the side road through the bazaar and then turn left at the fork. Swimming is best on the beach! although its proximity to the marina is slightly annoying.

Beach number 3 is a secluded cove with sandy shores. The most convenient access to it is from the Blue Sea Restaurant. Next is a wilder beach (5 km from the village). You can get here along the village road leading to the eastern part of the island. This is a great place for walking along the coast. At low tide you can visit small limestone caves.

You can go diving with India Explorers (9474238646; www.indiascubaexplorers.com) or rent equipment for snorkeling (Rs 150 per day) at your hotel or in the city. You may be lucky and you will see a dugong on Beach No. 1 looking for food in shallow water at high tide. For 1000 - 2000 rupees you can rent a fishing boat and go snorkeling or fishing on it. The cost depends on the distance of the trip, the duration of the dives, etc.; usually several people are taken on board.

The main bazaar has a pleasant atmosphere and a lot of people gather here in the evenings. Gyan Garden Restaurant offers cooking classes (from 200 rupees). Behind the restaurant there is a path that will take you up the hill to the observation deck, from where you can see the whole island all the way to the sea.

Where to stay and where to eat

In the low season, simple bungalows on the beach are very profitable. The most popular places are Nango Beach Resort: (03192-282583; bungalows Rs 50-350, cottages Rs 600-1000) and Pearl Park Resort (03192-282510; bungalows Rs 100-250, cottages and rooms Rs 400-1600), both on beach number 1. They are like reflections of each other - this impression is created due to their close proximity and external similarity. Both offer cute thatched bungalows or less interesting but more comfortable concrete rooms. The main difference is that Tango offers sea breezes and ocean views, while Pearl Park offers sunsets and lush gardens.

A-D Beach Resort (214722; bungalow 300-700 rupees)- another great option on beach number 4.

The food on Neil Island is surprisingly good. In the market you will find cheap and delicious Bengali food.

Moonshine (main dishes 40-150 rupees) on the way to the beach number 1 - this is a favorite restaurant among tourists. Here they cook excellent homemade pasta and dishes from it. (shrimp pasta is amazing) and serve cold beer. Located in the market Chand Restaurant also popular. Here you will be served strong coffee and delicious grilled fish. Gyan Garden Restaurant (main dishes 50-200 rupees) offers a great selection of seafood dishes.

How to get and move

A ferry departs from Phoenix Bay in Port Blair every morning to and from Neil. (195 rupees, two hours). There is also a daily ferry to Havelock which departs in the morning.

Bicycle rental (from 50 rupees per day)- a great way to get around the island: the roads here are smooth, and the distances are short. An auto rickshaw will take you from the pier to beach number 1 for 50 rupees.

Middle and North Andamans

The Andaman Islands are not only sun and sand. It is also a jungle, as dense as the forests of the Amazon and ancient as Jurassic Park, as if created by Mother Nature on a whim. This densely overgrown, wild side of the islands can be seen during a long jolting bus on the Andaman Highway. (ATR). Traveling overland to Diglipur, you will find yourself on bumpy roads lined with ancient trees and overlooking ferries that surf the tannin-red rivers inhabited by combed crocodiles.

But there is also a downside to traveling the ATR: the road passes through Jarawa settlements, which puts the tribe in constant contact with the outside world. Modern India and tribal life cannot seem to coexist - every time Jarawa and visitors interact in some way, misunderstandings occur, leading to dissension and unrest, or, in the worst case, to acts of violence and death. Indian anthropologists and local human rights organizations such as Survival International are calling for the closure of the ATR. At the time of the study, the status of the highway was under discussion. Currently, vehicles are only allowed with an escort and at set times. from 6:00 to 15:00. Photography is strictly prohibited, as is stopping and interacting with the Jarawa, who are becoming more and more dependent on handouts from passing tourists.

Most interesting place north of Port Blair are impressive limestone caves (closed on Mondays) in Baratang. They can be reached by boat. (200 rupees) from the pier, which takes 45 minutes. The path lies through the picturesque mangrove forest. A permit is required, which can be issued at the pier.

Rangat - the second main city, a transport center, nothing else remarkable. If you still get stuck here, we recommend the hotel PLS Bhawar (single/double from 150/250 rupees), the best of many bad hotels. There is an ATM nearby. Ferries depart for Port Blair and Havelock Island (50/195 rupees, 9 hours) and Long Island (7 rupees), from the Yeratga pier, which is 8 km from Rangat. There is a bus to Port Blair daily. (95 rupees, 9 hours).

December to March hawksbill (moss turtles) nest on the beaches of Cuthbert Bay, a 45-minute drive from Rangat. A northbound bus will take you here. Hawksbill Nest (03192-279022; bedroom for 4 people 600 rupees, 2-bed 400 rupees, air-conditioned 800 rupees) is the only place to stay. The room must be booked at the A&N Tourism office in Port Blair. Permission (250 rupees) can be issued at the forester's office in Betapur.

Long Island

The friendly people and leisurely pace of life on Long Island make it the perfect place for those seeking peace and tranquility. There are no motorized vehicles on the island and at times it feels like you are the only tourist here.

One and a half hour walk in the jungle (not recommended after rain) will lead you to the secluded bay of Lalaji with a white sandy beach and a comfortable swimming area. By hiring dungi (deposit 1500 rupees), you can get to the bay much easier, especially if you don't like leeches. You can also rent dungas and go to North Passage Island for snorkeling in magnificent bay Merck Bay with its dazzling white sandy beach and clear water. You can also go to South Batgon from here. (South Button).

blue planet (9474212180; www.blueplanetandamans.com; room with/without bath from Rs 300/700)- this is not only a great hotel, but also an excellent example of architecture using washed-ashore bottles. Paduk grows around simple rooms, on which hammocks are stretched. Here they feed and provide very slow internet. Follow the blue arrows to get here from the pier. There are separate cottages (from 2000 to 3000 rupees) nearby. Long Island does not sell alcohol, so you will have to stock up in advance.

There is a ferry from here three times a week to Havelock and Port Blair. (Rs 195) and once a week in Rangat (8 rupees).

Mayabunder and its environs

On the "upper" Middle Andaman there are several villages inhabited by the Karens, a Burmese hill tribe who were resettled here during the colonial rule of Britain. In Mayabunder, stay at Sea "n" Sand (03192-273454; [email protected]; room from 200 rupees), is a simple cabin, restaurant and bar overlooking the ocean. Located 1 km from the city center. The inn is run by Karens Titus and Elizabeth with their extended family. This discreet place is suitable for those who want to be away from the crowds. It offers a number of day trips by boat. (500-2500 rupees per tour) which, depending on the season, may include trips to the Forty-One Caves where the Salangans build their prized edible nests, snorkeling off the coast of Avis Island, a jungle trip to the eerie Interview Island, home to a small population of wild elephants released after a closure in 1950 years of a woodworking enterprise. You will feel very strange. Permission required (500 rupees). which is best obtained through Sea "n" Sand.

Mayabunder is located 71 km from Rangat. There is a daily shuttle bus from Port Blair. (l30 rupees, 10 hours) and three times a week - ferry (on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays). There is an unreliable ATM here.

Diglipur and surroundings

Those who make it to these far northern lands will be rewarded with spectacular sights. Though don't expect much from Diglipur, the northernmost big city in the Andaman Islands, which is an elongated sandy market town with an ATM and slow internet (40 rupees per hour). You should head straight to Kalipur where you will find lodging and views of the ocean and outlying islands.

The ferry arrives at Aerial Bay Pier, which is 11 km southwest of Diglipur, the bus station and the administration building, where you can book tickets for the boat. Kalipur is located on the coast, 8 km southeast of the pier.

What to see and do

Ibis, leatherback, olive and green turtles nest on the coast of Diglipur from December to April. Tourists can help collect eggs for incubation; behind additional information contact Pristine Beach Resort. There are also several caves in the area.

Connected by a sandy strip, the twin islands look like beautiful tropical scales. Since this area is considered a marine reserve, you will need to obtain permission from the Department of Forestry to visit it. (Indian / foreigner 50/500 rupees; 6:00-14:00 Mon-Sat), which is located opposite the Aerial Bay pier. These islands are some of the best in the Andamans; and great snorkeling here. You can rent a boat to leave the village for 1000 rupees per day.

Craggy is a small island near Kalipur, where it is also nice to go snorkeling. Strong swimmers can get there on their own, or you can rent dungas (Rs 200 round trip).

Saddle Peak is the highest point in the Andaman Islands. (732 m above sea level). A walk through the subtropical forest from Kalipur to the summit and back will take 6 hours; from the top you have a magnificent view of the archipelago. It also requires permission from the Department of Forestry. (Indian 25 rupees, foreigner 250 rupees), A local guide help you not get lost - for more information, contact Pristine Beach Resort. Otherwise, follow the red arrows drawn on the trees.

How to get and move

From Diglipur, located 80 km north of Mayabunder, there is a daily bus service to Port Blair (170 rupees, 12 hours) and back, as well as to Mayabunder (50 rupees, 2.5 hours) and Rangat (70 rupees, 4.5 hours). There is also a ferry service from Port Blair to Diglipur that returns from Diglipur at night (seat/bed 100/295 rupees, 10 hours).

Buses from Diglipur to Kalipur run every half hour; an auto rickshaw costs about 100 rupees.

Small Andaman

Gaubolambe - this is the name of Small Andaman, located in the southernmost part of the archipelago, its inhabitants from the Onge tribe. Here you seem to be at the end of the world (to a tropical paradise): there are almost no tourists, the locals are so friendly that you perceive them as family, and the island itself is a lush mangrove and jungle that has existed here since the creation of the world.

Little Andaman was badly damaged during the tsunami on December 26, 2004 and is now slowly recovering. But, despite the fact that the tourist infrastructure is not yet developed here, new hotels are already starting to open. The main settlement here is Hat Bay, small town 120 km south of Port Blair, where mainly smiling Bengalis and Tamils ​​live. To the north of here you will find secluded beaches, clean and fresh.

What to see and do

Netaji Nagar 11 km north of Hat Bay and Butler Bay another 3 km north are beautiful desert (unless a cow meets by chance) beaches and great waves for surfers.

A little further from the coast in the forest there are White Surf and Whisper Wave waterfalls. (the latter involves a 4 km walk, for which we highly recommend taking a guide). You will see magnificent waterfalls and you might want to swim in their lakes, but beware of crocodiles.

The Little Andaman Lighthouse, 14 km from Hat Bay, is another worthwhile excursion. 41 m up, exactly 200 steps - and before you opens a magical view of the coast and the forest. The easiest way to get here is by motorcycle, but you can work hard and ride a bike. You could also hire an auto rickshaw and then, when the road becomes impassable, walk along the peaceful deserted beach. The walk will take no more than an hour.

Harbinder Bay and Dugong Creek are the tribal areas of the Nicobars and Onge, respectively; their visit is prohibited.

Among intrepid surfers, Little Andaman has been rumored since its opening to foreigners a few years ago. In between reefs, only experienced surfers are recommended to ride, and sharks and crocodiles are not uncommon here. Connect with the surf freak Muth (9775276182) from Havelock, he will supply you necessary information about the waves around Little Andaman and the surrounding area. There are several habitable surfer yachts that go here and take you to more remote, inaccessible places. Contact Surf Andamans (www.surfandamans.com).

How to get and move

Ferries arrive at Hat Bay Pier on the east coast; the beaches are north of here. Buses (10 rupees) go to Butler Bay whenever they want. You can rent a local jeep (100 rupees).

Water transport runs to Little Andaman from Port Blair daily. You can choose between an 8-hour night cruise on a slow ship or a 6-hour day trip on a speedboat. (seat/bed Rs 25/70).

If you are planning to fly by helicopter, this is a great opportunity for you. This way you can not only avoid the 7.5-hour boat trip, but also enjoy incredible views from above - although limiting the weight of luggage to 5 kg complicates things a bit.

How to get there? What country do they belong to? Is it important to know the answers to these questions when it comes to absolute paradise from the famous advertisement of coconut chocolate. yes, rae. . . In which there is absolutely nothing to do. . . :)

Far away... Do not think that we are now trying to dissuade you from visiting the Andaman Islands. Quite the opposite.
Travel by land, water and air for several days, apply for an Indian visa, and then a special permit, manage not to burn out on the first day under the cosmic scorching sun ... Smeared with sunscreen, crawl out of a bamboo hut for a couple of hours in the morning and evening .. .
And, most blasphemous, forget about. At all. Even the slowest.

Only in this case insight comes - all the difficulties that you have done for the sake of this beautiful moment, the moment of doing nothing. Surrounded by perfectly white sand flour, soothingly crispy underfoot, the azure surface of the ocean, which is almost invisible due to transparency while swimming, delicious coconut that daily extends your hand, and complete peace, so necessary in the frantic rhythm of our daily life.

Welcome to distant lands - to the Andaman Islands. By the way, you heard right, the Andaman archipelago belongs to India.
Only it is "seen" better from Myanmar. Between them about 150 kilometers. While the islands are removed from the "native" country by almost one and a half thousand. For those who are not indifferent to seascapes, boundless expanses and ship pitching, this distance is mere trifles.
Once a week, a ship departs from the port of Kolkata, going to the target for several days. And for those who like to travel by air, of course, the plane is only a couple of hours on the way.

Whichever option you choose, there will be a queue to get permission. However, you should not worry - it is given to almost everyone. And after a phlegmatically slapped stamp in the passport, all roads open. On any of the islands of the archipelago. Although no, not on any. I'm exaggerating. The fact is that out of more than 500, less than 50 are inhabited ...
And the rest are untouched corners where there is simply no fresh water and where, most likely, no human foot has set foot. Most of the so-called "wild" islands are still inhabited by those who are not familiar with civilization. They say that among them there are direct descendants of primitive people. Although there is no way to check this, the Aboriginal settlements are declared reservations, which are strictly guarded by the authorities, and it is forbidden to visit them.

Interestingly, in Port Blair, the capital of the archipelago, many travel agencies offer excursions to the "wild" islands. This refers to a dozen pieces of land with several nationalities (Onge, Jarawa, Sentinelese, etc.), the number of which does not exceed a couple of hundred people. These are aboriginal pygmies who got acquainted with the civilized world quite recently, and as clothes they use only loincloths and bright beads.

Tourists arriving on the islands are allowed to move away from the boat only a hundred meters. There are no fences, of course. Just outside the designated area, as the organizers of the trips assure, there is a risk of running into trouble. In the access zone Of course, the above-described "wildness" - a rare exception. And you should not be afraid of them if you purposefully go to the islands from the permitted category.

So, in 20 ferry minutes from Port Blair, perhaps the most sightseeing of them - Ross Island. Or "Paris of the East", as it was pompously called during the residences of first the French and then the British colonial authorities. It was here that the first correctional settlement for convicts was built on the archipelago. To this day, only a few walls, artistically overgrown with vines, a church on top of a hill and an old cemetery adjacent to it, have remained from the brick prisons. Guests of the island are greeted by the owners of the territory - sika deer axis, allowing themselves to be stroked.

Unlike Ross, neighboring viper island much smaller and completely covered in greenery. It got its name in honor of the ship of the same name, which was wrecked here in 1789. It was on it that the English lieutenant Archibald Blair first arrived at the Andamans in order to build prisons (one on Ross Island, the other in the capital of the archipelago). On Viper, whipping poles are preserved as relics - evidence of a sad colonial past. Because of them, this place is also called the "island of the gallows." And the path to them from the pier leads along a winding brick path.

The most peaceful of the islands - Nile. A ferry from Port Blair lands on its shores only three times a week. Its territory is considered an exclusive recreation center for wealthy ecotourists and snorkeling fans. The coral reef here has been preserved in its original form, and the island itself resembles a triangle with several bays and charming beaches. You can see them in a couple of hours by bike.
And to feel the place, it is better to stay for a week. During this time, you can relax and dive. Also eat exotic fruits. Nile, by the way, the inhabitants of the archipelago called the "food bowl." After all, it is from here that it is exported the largest number all "Andaman" fruits and vegetables.

And if this little tropical paradise gets boring, welcome to Havelock- the most popular and touristic of all the islands. You can get to it on the same ferry as to the Nile, just get off at the final one. And from the pier any rush to right place in minutes. The main attraction of the island is Beach 7, which deserves, perhaps, the highest rating on the Bounty scale.
Framed by greenery, a wide lagoon of white sand, the road to which lies through a real tropical forest, majestic and calm ocean, and, finally, a crystal blue sky...

The first days of your stay on Havelock, the surrounding landscapes do not let go of the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe complete “photoshop” of what is happening. Only forty minutes later, and we are at the elephant beach, where, of course, for a fee, you can even swim with a huge animal. A few more kilometers to the south, and we are waiting for an invariable meeting with dolphins and turtles. And overnight - in a bamboo hut with cozy hammocks on the porch. On their roofs made of palm branches, ripe mangoes fall from the trees before dawn, which are pleasant to quench your thirst during the day.
Every new day you can visit a new beach, scuba dive or snorkel, travel in the jungle. Or just sit on the sand and watch the boats that do not float, but seem to hover over clear water.

In pursuit of "shanti"
It may seem to many readers that Andamans is an absolute paradise, where you can roam endlessly. Desert, mangrove, ocean, ocean, ocean...
But all this beauty can hardly be called a tourist place in the style of the UAE, the Maldives and other popular tourist places. There are no luxury hotels, pretentious restaurants, nightclubs and any significant architectural sights on the Andamans.
People go to the Andaman archipelago to lazily cruise between the "wild" beach and the hut vibrating in the wind. However, in this case, the word "laziness" does not carry a negative connotation. Here, rather, the well-known state of “shanti”, the harmony of the inner and outer worlds, is implied. And if this makes you feel good, it means that you got to a place where it’s just good, without any conventions.

Have you ever wondered what a "bounty" is, besides a chocolate bar? But this was originally the name of a warship that was wrecked off the coast of small islands southeast of New Zealand. The very ones that later became the "Bounty", a symbol of "heavenly pleasure" ...
And if you are ready for a long and difficult trip to the Andaman Islands in order to slowly and lazily catch the poetry of beach everyday life on them, breathe in the atmosphere of freedom and engage in “doing nothing”, then you should not put it off until later. Because, most likely, such a trip will turn out to be one of the most interesting adventures in the travel list. And proof of how wonderful it is to laze around in an almost heavenly setting.