Crete - overview by region. South Crete

Southern coast of Crete December 30th, 2016

I want to finish talking about my May trip to the island of Crete. The southern coast is less populated and has a more complex terrain. We decided that in the Rethymnon area the island is quite narrow, and we definitely need to go to the south and check in, although our youngest daughter Maya (she was 1 year and 4 months old at that time) really did not like to drive for a long time.
In the Rethymno area, from the north of the island to the south is only about 35 km (this is in a straight line). And Google Maps built a route to one of the most famous beaches south of the island - Preveli in 46 minutes.

From Rethymno to the south it is quite narrow the road goes to one of the centers of the southern coast - Agia Galini. First she walks through the hills, which are planted with olive trees, then the trees disappear and only mountains and rocks remain. Here you need to turn off the main road following the sign for Preveli and Plakias. Immediately after the turn, the road goes through the picturesque Kourtaliotiko gorge. This is where all the tourists stop and take pictures. Almost no car passes without stopping; it seems that besides foreign tourists, few people drive here. Well, of course, we stopped too:

The hiking trail starts from here, but we didn't go on it.
A thin stream flows along the bottom of the gorge. In spring it turns into a big one good river. High in the mountains of Crete there are real snowy winters. There are even ski slopes, although there are no ski resorts, since winter is unstable, short and unpredictable.
I found a video from some French people who are kiting. In the morning they race in the snow, in the evening they go down to the sea and ride there some more:

The road then passes through the village of Preveli.

She doesn't look very touristy. However, behind the village, there is a famous monastery, which is also called Preveli. There were a bunch of buses and rental cars parked here, but Maya fell asleep and we didn’t go see it. Below the monastery is a wide valley, again planted with olive trees:

Preveli Beach is famous for the fact that in the 70s there was a hippie colony here. Well, it’s simply quite picturesque and, moreover, promoted as a local attraction. There is paid parking here, we stopped by, and I went to investigate. It turned out that in order to get to the beach you need to go down a long staircase.

We didn't want to wake Maya at all. Therefore, we did not go to Preveli beach, but limited ourselves to photographing the surrounding area. It's beautiful here:

Bright colors, beautiful Mediterranean. We don't have such flowers.

In the distance, two small islands can be seen in the sea:

They are called Paximadia and are uninhabited. They can be reached from the port of Agia Galini by boat. The islands have beautiful secluded beaches.
And we, without going down to the beach, went to the village of Plakias, which lies a little to the west of Preveli.

Plakias is a small resort village stretched along the coast. There are three beaches here, there are hotels and taverns:

Plakias did not exist before the era of tourism development.
You can't hear Russian speech here, mostly German. In general, for some reason our travel agencies do not take their tourists to the southern coast of the island.

We drove to the farthest end of the village and settled down on Souda Beach:

Here we had lunch at a local restaurant overlooking the beach:

By the way, the food was very good, there was fresh fish.
There are very few people here. The end of civilization. If you go further beyond this beach, the roads there look like this:

We saw a very small piece of the southern coast, of course. The main life of the island of Crete takes place along the northern shore. In general, Crete is such a large island that in order to study it in detail you need not a week, but much more time. This is a whole separate country. Perhaps we will come back here again.
Other posts about a trip to Crete in May 2016:
Greek provincial football, Chania - Lamia.

X Although Crete welcomes a good quarter of all visitors to Greece, you can still avoid large crowds by going south coast of Crete. With rugged mountains that stretch across much of the island's middle, southern Crete remains an isolated and tranquil place.

South coast of Crete

Known for their hospitality, traditional music and healthy home-cooked food, Cretans are passionate about their independence. They often rebelled under Venetian and Ottoman occupation, with the southern fortress remaining undefeated.

With high cliffs looming over the sea, the Sfakia region remains a peacefully isolated community with settlements of gleaming white houses and secluded beaches accessible only by boat (the intrepid can try walking). Boat trips hug the west coast from the town of Chora Sfakion to via Agia Roumeli. The latter is where crowds of weary travelers stumble upon the 16 km long Samaria Gorge, the longest in Europe.

Boat trip is ideal for exploration south coast of Crete. End point Palaiochora route – small town, who retained his laid-back personality despite being chosen for popular beach Elafonisi Beach on the south west bank Krita. The resort's soft pink sands and islets certainly look very inviting and, except in high summer, serene. Paleochora can also offer a large selection of live folk music mantinades, fully expressing the strong and melancholy spirit of life on the island.

Crete is large enough to consider itself a separate country, and the island people like to distinguish themselves from other Greeks. A young guide and restaurant owner in the village of Azogyres, a tranquil hamlet 7 kilometers north of Paleochora, sums it up: “We have about 13 Cretans, 8 Greeks, 2 Englishmen and 1 Dutch living here.”

It is this sense of otherness (visually reflected in the guide's pencil-thin mustache, a relic of centuries past) that makes Cretans, especially those from the southern coast of Crete, such good company. They can entertain with originality or anecdotes, annoy with their stubbornness, and charm with their hospitality. Of course, you never get bored in their company.

The southern mountains are dotted with tiny traditional villages, an ideal opportunity to purchase local and thyme honey. At the same time, Azogyres has freshwater lagoons with wandering Nereids, the same ones from the ancient Greek myths that supposedly can steal a person’s soul for one sacred night. More otherworldly characters, the ghosts of fighters killed by the Turks in 1828, can be seen at dawn every year at the end of May over the Frangokastello fortress. This magnificent 13th century Venetian fortress is located next to calm beach east of Chora Sfakion.

Yoga lovers often visit Azogyres, although serene Agios Pavlos, a little further east on Crete's south coast, is also ideal for relaxed meditation. Just three kilometers to the west, Triopetra beach offers just one accommodation option, complete with a restaurant on a seaside terrace. Here the sense of time seems to recede, and the menu changes every day depending on the catch. Knowing full well the importance of the irreplaceable Triopetra (where regulars book rooms three years in advance), local residents protested loudly when Chinese companies wanted to build a huge port here, as always for centuries, the Cretans resisted much more desperately than the external enemy.

Triopetra's relative inaccessibility and tiny size kept her in blissful peace. But even the places that attract more visitors, such as lazy Plakias west of Preveli, stand away from the north and the resorts. Boasting one of the longest beaches in the south, Plakias has a number of small hotels and restaurants to offer, although it's the Youth Hostel Plakias (open from Greek Easter to October) that really sets itself apart.

One of the reasons why Plakias et al. southern resorts remained somewhat aloof from mass tourism - this is the stunning summer wind that throws sand at sunbathers on the beach and blows whitewash into the sea. But these same winds also drive away mosquitoes and break through the solid wall of summer heat. Now you know what is remarkable about the southern coast of Crete.

On the south coast of Crete

Previous part of the story about Crete - .

We got to Rethymnon from the port of Heraklion by rented car (about 80 km).

We chose a very interesting and unusual hotel. It is not located in Rethymno itself, but a little before reaching it (about 2 km), right on the seashore, and is old mansion Turkish aristocrat:

When we were there in 2013, the hotel was only 2-star, a little dilapidated, the interior was simple and shabby, but how colorful and atmospheric it was!

Due to the low cost, we chose a two-level luxury room with sea view:

If desired, it could accommodate 5 people; there was also a kitchen corner. Right under the windows, by the sea, there is an excellent hotel restaurant (a wonderful homemade breakfast was included in the price):

View of the bay and Rethymnon from the hotel restaurant

Black seafood risotto and king crab

Even the Greek salad here is not at all the same as everywhere else, but simply a work of art! And all this at very reasonable prices.
When I started preparing this post, I went to booking to clarify some details about the hotel. And I didn’t find him. I was very upset, started looking again, and found a 4* Thalassa Boutique Hotel in this place, in which I recognized our 2* Delfini... It was completely renovated, and now it looks luxurious, rooms with a jacuzzi and luxurious decoration, balconies with glass partition, opening a panoramic view of the sea, a well-equipped beach... and the price is about 4 times higher. I don't know if the restaurant has undergone the same significant changes. On the one hand, the hotel has certainly become much better. On the other hand, I was sad, because the place that I liked and remembered so much, and where theoretically I would like to return if I was going to Crete again, is no longer there. But, in any case, this hotel deserves attention.
The hotel offers a wonderful view of the Rethymno fortress:

And you can walk to the city itself in 20 minutes, or take a taxi in 3 minutes and no more than 5 euros.
In Rethymnon, the main attraction is, of course, the Fortezza fortress:

The fortress, like in Heraklion, was built by the Venetian Republic in 1573-1580. Currently, there is a museum on the territory of the fortress, and its monuments and sites are used for various cultural events. Inside the fortress there are the remains of several medieval Muslim temples, a prison, and an Armory.

But I liked the fortress simply because there were practically no people, the evening sun softly illuminated the ruins, it was very warm, but not hot, and incredibly calm...

And very beautiful views of the harbor of Rethymnon:

The “old town” is also quite colorful:

13th century lighthouse

In general, during the reign of the Venetian governors, the town and the island itself flourished and were enriched with beautiful architectural complexes and buildings. At that time, throughout the city, as in Heraklion, the Venetians erected fountains with fresh water, but these were not just recesses carved into the wall, but works of architectural art, for example, the Rimondi fountain, built in 1626:

Not far from the fountain is a Venetian loggia, built at the same time as the fortress:

And from the embankment you can admire the sunsets:

As for Rethymnon beach, I absolutely did not like it! We only got out there once, and were very glad that we did not settle in the city itself near such a beach. There is a lot of dark algae in the water, a general feeling of unkemptness, while there are too many people, the sunbeds are almost back to back (of course, they are paid). In general, the beaches in the Rethymnon area did not work out. Near our hotel there was “our own” piece of beach, but in 2013 it was not landscaped (judging by new photographs of the hotel, now everything is different). Nevertheless, there were some sun loungers and even a couple of umbrellas, there were no people, and so we joyfully ran to the beach to swim on the very first day. But in the sea they suddenly discovered some black spots on their legs! At first we were terribly scared, thinking that these were leeches 😊 But when we looked closer, it turned out that these were fuel oil stains! We were not the only victims - some foreigners, seeing our bewilderment, pointed out to us the sand, which had many black small inclusions. The fuel oil was washed off with great difficulty (olive oil helped), and after that I didn’t want to swim on this beach anymore, although it looked very good - it’s in the photo from the hotel above.
The hotel workers advised us of another place for swimming, which could only be reached by car, and we went there all week, sometimes even 2 times a day, but more on that later.

One of the most long trips by car I went to Chania (60 km) and then to Elafonisi beach (where it takes about 1.5-2 hours to drive from Chania!), it is located on the westernmost coast of Crete - marked on my map at the beginning of the post.
Chania is the second largest city in Crete (after the capital Heraklion) and also has an international airport.

Of course, here, as in many other cities of Crete, Venice could not be avoided.

The city of Chania is divided into two parts: the old city and the wider one new town. Old city located next to the old harbor, which is considered the most beautiful urban area in Crete, despite the bombing during World War II. On the shore of the harbor is located one of the few surviving mosques of Chania - Kuchuk Hasan - a legacy of Turkish rule (visible in the photo):

In the harbor of Chania there is one of the oldest lighthouses in the world, the symbol of the city:

Everywhere here you can feel the influence of Venice: narrow streets with houses painted with bright paint and entwined with flowers, shady courtyards, balconies and some kind of festive atmosphere:

We didn’t get to the beach of Chania, so I can’t say anything; there are no beaches in the Old Town itself. We liked the town, but we were only there for a couple of hours due to the sweltering heat and the upcoming long journey on Elafonisi.
The road itself is very picturesque and deserted:

But this is only for the time being... and then the serpentine begins, which is breathtaking in the worst sense. I regretted that we went! And the beach itself, to be honest, did not make much of an impression:

Here's what guidebooks write about the beach: “A beautiful and wide beach interspersed with pinkish sand. The lack of depth, which makes it especially attractive for families with small children.” In fact, the lack of depth results in the inability to swim! To plunge at least up to your shoulders, you have to go deep for about 10 minutes. And there is often wind there (and we caught it), and then it’s generally extremely unpleasant to plunge into the water and then get up, because... It is impossible to swim at such a depth and to wander to the shore under this wind. The return journey completed the negative - we went along another one. Never in my life have I been so scared on a serpentine road! We had to drive along the edge of a cliff, the road was practically single-lane and of poor quality at all, and then a bus came towards us! I am writing these lines, so it is obvious that we were able to separate, but iconostases along the roads in Crete are everywhere...

In Chania we finished sightseeing on the northern coast and turned towards the south. In general, on the southern coast of Crete there are many not the most significant, but noteworthy attractions. Because We were unlucky with the beach in Rethymnon; we went every day to the south of the island to swim. The sea there is different - “Libyan” (as the locals call the part of the Mediterranean Sea from Africa to the southern coast of Crete), it is colder and cleaner. We were recommended to Skhinari beach (on my map - not far from the village of Plakis in the south of the island), and this place turned out to be wonderful. But everything is in order.
The road from Rethymnon to Skhinari is not very long, but very picturesque, and we stopped several times on the way to the beach. First - in the village of Spili with a very beautiful monastery:

But what is especially noteworthy in Spili is the Venetian fountain with drinking water:

The photo does not convey the grandeur of the spectacle! And for those who like to walk along mountain paths in the gorge there are waterfalls, a river, and bridges (but I only know this from the guidebook, I haven’t been there myself).
Closer to the beach the road becomes completely rustic, the scenery is appropriate:

Skhinari beach is beautiful, with very small pebbles:

There are few people, the sunbeds are inexpensive, the water is crystal clear! It’s really colder than the sea off the northern coast of Crete, and I love it exclusively warm water. But here I was ready to put up with the temperature of the water, it was so clean and ideal. The beach is not in locality, there is practically no infrastructure: only one establishment where you can eat and go to the toilet. On the way back one day we admired this landscape:

In the same direction, relatively close, there is a very famous Cretan monastery - Preveli (by the way, the beach at the foot of the mountain on which the monastery is located is considered one of the best on the south coast - we were not there).

The Preveli Monastery is highly revered throughout Crete for its rich past and the active participation of the monks in the national liberation struggle. The earliest known date associated with the monastery is 1594, these are the numbers stamped on the monastery bell.

The monastery has a large territory and its own poultry house:

And again incredible views from the upper monastery:

Continuing the theme of beaches, I’ll tell you about another popular beach that we were unlucky with. When you have a car, you want to travel around the entire island, and we went somewhere all week. And, of course, we couldn’t help but go to Matala, a village on the southern coast of Crete.

In the Neolithic era, bays were hollowed out in soft porous rocks numerous caves, which by the time of the Roman conquest of Crete and during the period of early Christianity were used for burials. In the Minoan period, Matala, apparently, was the port of Festus, located 10 kilometers to the northeast (we went to it after Matala); in the Roman period, Matala was the port of Gortyna, located 30 kilometers to the northeast. And by the way, according to Greek mythology, Matala was the place where Zeus, in the form of a bull, transported the Phoenician princess Europa, and only then turned into an eagle and transported her further to Gortyn.

And in the 1960s, groups of hippies from many countries around the world settled in the Neolithic caves, including young Americans who refused to participate in the Vietnam War. Now you can climb into the caves, although they are fenced:

What didn’t we like in Matale?.. We were very unlucky with the weather. Yes, oddly enough, this also happens in Crete at the height of the velvet season. A very strong wind blew from the sea, which, in addition to waves, raised clouds of sand. Because the sand was not very fine, it was noticeably painful when the wind threw it over my legs and even my arms. It was impossible to be on the beach in such a situation, so we only quickly checked in near the caves and were forced to retreat, spitting and shaking off the sand.
After Matala we went inland to the ruins of Festus. Actually, we wanted to go to Festus after we saw the famous Phaistos Disc in the Archaeological Museum of Heraklion:

Phaistos disc - unique monument letters presumably from the Minoan culture of the Middle or Late Bronze Age. Its exact purpose, as well as the place and time of manufacture are not known with certainty. Some scientists question its authenticity. Many works, both by specialists and amateurs, have been devoted to the study of the Phaistos Disc, and the latter have repeatedly made statements about deciphering the inscription on its surface. However, none of the proposed readings has become generally accepted in the scientific community.

The first palace in Phaistos appeared in the early palace period (1900-1700 BC), with the flourishing of Minoan culture. At this time, Festus was at least as important as Knossos in its importance for the Minoan world (I talked about it in).

Although all that remains of the Fest are ruins, I liked it here. Most likely due to the lack of tourists, silence, detachment from the world and incredible views from the hill:

In the same direction as Festus is the village of Ayia Deka. The title is “Ten Saints” - ten Christians martyred by the Romans at the beginning of our era. In the ancient Byzantine church in the middle of the village there is a stone block - they say the same one on which martyrs were beheaded (we were not here), and in the crypt of the modern church on western outskirts villages contain the tombs of these ten saints (now empty):

In the post, I already shared my thoughts that the Greek churches are much closer to me than ours. Once again I felt it here. There was not a soul in the church; it emanated calm and tranquility.

Another (minor) attraction located in the same area - on the southern coast in the region of Chania - is the remains of the Venetian fortress of Frangokastello:

The fortress is a square castle with four towers at the corners, the best preserved in Crete:

What is remarkable is not the castle itself, of which only the walls remain, but the mystical history associated with it. During Turkish rule, on May 17, 1827, about a hundred horsemen and 600 warriors, led by Hadzimihalis Dalianis, attempted to start a war for the independence of Crete and captured the castle. The Turks (8,000 soldiers led by the commander of Crete, Musatafa Naili Pasha) besieged Frangokastello and brutally dealt with the rebels: the ground was stained with the blood of the heroically killed 335 defenders of Crete along with their commander, but the enemy side also suffered significant losses.
The events at Frangokastello and the sacrifice of Hadzimihalis and his fighters so impressed the Cretans that they became the source of stories of visions. Every year at the end of May, before the sun rises and the dew evaporates, in the Frangokastello area they see shadows that look like people walking or riding horses with weapons. The Cretans associate this optical phenomenon, which lasts up to 10 minutes, with the battle of Frangokastello, because it coincides with the date of the fight. The Cretans believe that these are the souls of the dead. The phenomenon was called Drosulites (from the Greek word for "dew"), and many tried to explain it. For example, according to one version, shadows are a mirage that appears only in spring and only in the early morning. According to another version, shadows appear as a result of refraction sunlight through the morning dew. However, there is still no clear explanation...

In general, the history of Frangokastello is interesting, but this “attraction” itself is not at all impressive, and it seems to me that going there is a waste of time.

Another disappointment of this kind is the miraculous Lake Kourna. In the previous part of the post about Crete, when I wrote about Agios Nikolaos, I mentioned that there are only two freshwater lakes on Crete: Voulismeni in Agios Nikolaos and Kourna. Qurna is the largest (of the two?) fresh lake in Crete, and for some reason it is considered one of the sights that is definitely worth seeing. It is located between Rethymnon and Chania, it was relatively not far from us, so we decided to go there.

Maybe we were there at the end of the season, and this was associated with absolute desolation?.. Although, it seems to me, it’s always like that there. There is absolutely nothing to do. Well, by the way, you can rent a catamaran...

But when there is a sea nearby, spending time here is a very strange decision. By the way, I didn’t see a single person swimming there, but there were a lot of waterfowl (geese, ducks), and I heard as a child that you can’t swim in reservoirs where ducks swim 😊 I don’t know how true this is, but you can swim in Lake Kourna It would never have occurred to me... We stayed there for 10-15 minutes, wandered along the rocky shore and then went back.

During the second part of our holiday in Crete (in Rethymnon), we went somewhere every day in a rental car. Because of this, by the way, I didn’t rest enough, a “residue” remained, and it was especially disappointing to waste time on Frangokastello and Kourna. But the roads in Crete are very picturesque. Often, returning in the evening, I found the following landscapes:

And one day, although we were tired and hungry and were in a hurry to get to the hotel, we simply stopped the car on the side of the road and walked to the edge of the cliff, because...

"Sunset. And if we don't see him, then maybe we'll be too late for life. After all, every sunset is unique in life, citizens.” (“Locomotive from Romashkovo”, G. Tsyferov).

The largest Greek island and the fifth largest in the Mediterranean, Crete (Kriti, Crete) lies 97 km southeast of the nearest point mainland Greece- Cape Maleya.

One of the most beautiful islands region, the center of formation of the mysterious Minoan civilization, it is rightfully considered one of the most interesting tourist sites in the country. Mountainous and hot, lying at the junction of three seas, it has almost the entire range of tourist attractions, from unique archaeological sites and picturesque old towns to numerous beaches, gorges and mountainous areas.

Around Heraklion

The richest agricultural areas of Crete begin southwest of the island's capital. The large rock outcrop is worth seeing here Omphalos, more often called simply the “Navel of Crete”, near the village of Ayia Varvara (Agia Varvara, in these places the pronunciation is slightly different than on the mainland), a picturesque village Ayi-Deka(Ayii Dheka, literally translated - “Ten Saints”) with the old Byzantine church and the crypt of these same saints (now empty), the richest ruins of the Roman capital of Crete and North Africa- cities Gortys not far from Ayi Dek, a town located 20 km to the west Meares- the center of the fertile Mesara plain and its ancient capital - famous.

3 km northwest of Festus, almost on the opposite hill, is another complex of Minoan ruins, known today as. The sea from both palaces looks temptingly close - now it is separated from the foot of the “royal hill” only by the airfield Timbakion airfield. Port Como now hidden by the buildings of the modern village Matala, whose Red Beach is considered one of the best in the region (the southern coast of Crete is rocky and generally cannot boast of an abundance good shores). And the caves lying above the edge of the sea are believed to be ancient graves (excavations are currently underway here, access to which is open from April to September daily, from 10.00 to 19.00; 2 euros). Archaeological research is also underway in Matale itself, but access to the excavation area is still closed. There is a good beach near the village Kalamaki(Kalamaki) a little further south, as well as on the rocky coast between capes Kastri and Litinos, but here numerous rocks and almost constant winds make swimming less comfortable.

South of the Mesara plains lie two more resort areas - Cali Limenes(Kali Limenes) and Lendas(Lendas) with numerous small beaches along the coast between them. The beaches are quite modest, and public transport very limited, since the rather steep hills of Kofinas approach the very shore here and all communication is carried out in a detour, through Mires. Many tourists are disappointed by the small beach of Lendas, but it should be borne in mind that good beaches do not lie near the village, but on the other (western) side of Cape Kefalas - there is an extensive sandy beach Ditikos(Dhytikos, or Dhiskos), very popular among nudists and with many colorful taverns and bars. You can also visit the deserted shores to the east, leading to the ruins of the ancient city Lebena, from which the foundation of the Temple of Asclepius around the warm springs that once flowed here, fragments of columns and mosaics have been preserved.

East of Heraklion

To the east of the capital, the most interesting coastal areas of Crete begin. From the old air force base in Kato Gouves you can turn inland and reach the village of Gouves, near which there are caves Skotino(Skotino) - one of the largest and most spectacular on the island (about an hour's walk from the coast; admission is free).

To the east along the coast lies a whole complex of beautiful hotels around the old seaside town - the most popular of the resorts in Crete.

And just inland of the island there are three picturesque villages - Kutulufarion(Koutouloufarion), Piskopiano(Piskopianon) and one more Hersonissos, which the Greeks simply call “old Chersonesos” - they are all famous good choice taverns and an abundance of inexpensive hotels (in the city itself during the season it is often simply impossible to find a place in a hotel).

8 km east of Hersonissos lies another resort center-, famous for its kilometer-long beach, also almost entirely framed by all kinds of taverns and bars.

An old road runs inland from here, passing through the fertile Malevisi valley, filled with olive groves and vineyards, known since Venetian times as the main center for the production of the sweet wine Malmsi, clearly similar to Malvasia. The highway then runs up the slopes of the Psiloriti mountains and goes past the famous Ideon caves(Idheon Andhron) - a competitor to Mount Dikti for the right to be called the birthplace of Zeus. Excavations are currently underway here, and although it itself cannot boast of any natural beauties, but the panoramas from here are majestic. And it rises very close highest point this mountain system and all of Crete - Mount Ida, or Psiloritis(Idhi Oros, Psiloritis, 2456 m), climbing which for an experienced and properly shod traveler will not pose any special problems. The route is well marked and usually takes 6-7 hours, including a return to the chapel of Timios Stavros (Holy Cross, 17th century).

Nearby there are excavations of an ancient settlement Tilis(Tylissos, site open daily from 8.30 to 15.00; 2 euros) with its three Minoan buildings. Unfortunately, almost all the unique finds from this site are now stored in the Archaeological Museum of Heraklion, and the excavations themselves represent only a partially uncovered area by archaeologists, hiding in the shade of pine trees.

East Crete

Leaving Malia, the highway turns inland to market town. A little higher, behind the village of Psykhro, the most sacred places of the plateau begin. Here, in the low mountain range of Dikti-Oros, is Mount Dikti (2148 meters), on the slopes of which, in the cave of the same name, Zeus the Thunderer, the supreme god of the Hellenistic pantheon, was allegedly born. Diktean cave(Dhiktean) is open daily from 8.00 to 19.00 (entrance 4 euros) and is easily accessible along a good path leading from the village of Psychro. Unfortunately, part of her ancient aura has long been “smeared” with neon lamps and concrete paths, but in the deep parts with numerous stalactites and stalagmites, the breasts of Rhea, who nursed Zeus, and Zeus himself in the guise of a baby can still be discerned.

Biggest resort area Crete, the city lies on the western shore of the Gulf of Merabelon. Some tourists are clearly surprised to find themselves in such popular resort, which does not have a single decent beach at all. But Agios Nikolaos is rather the center of the entire region, its gate and capital nightlife than the resort itself.

Therefore, many immediately go north to the pleasant beaches Elounda(Elounda) and the picturesque Spinalonga Bay, in which lies the island of the same name with ancient fortress(resisted the Turks for another 45 years after Crete itself fell), and at the bottom is an ancient city Olus, in good weather, freely visible through the waters of the shallow strait. A little further north you can find a nice (albeit small) beach Plaka, and in the interior of the island - a traditional village Bloom(Kritsa, 10 km west of Agios Nikolaos) with its folk craft workshops and colorful taverns. On the access road, 2 km before Kritsa, rises a beautiful Byzantine Church of Panayia-Kira(open daily from 8.30 to 17.30; 3 euros), inside which you can find the most complete set of 14th-15th century Byzantine frescoes in Crete (excellent and very expensive copies are sold in the shop next door). Immediately from the church the road turns to the archaeological site Lato(Thursday - Sunday from 8.30 to 14.30; 2 euros), where large ruins of a Doric city and a mountain fortress from the same period have been discovered. The sunken city of Olus was the port of Lato, and then the ancient road rose to the Lasithi plateau, which suggests that it was an important center of the cult of Zeus.

South of Agios Nikolaos, the road passes by numerous bays and capes on the southern coast of Merabelon and is immediately pressed to the shore by the Tripti (Trifti) mountains, after which the entire eastern isthmus of Crete is usually called. The first relatively large settlement on this route will be a village sandwiched in a saddle between two low peaks, just 2 km from which are the ruins of the most fully preserved Minoan city on Crete, also conventionally called Gournia.

There is a good, although rocky, beach nearby, but a little to the east, in the bay Pachia Amos(Pahia Ammos, about twenty minutes on foot), there are more comfortable beaches and excellent taverns with seafood cuisine. This is the narrowest part of the island, and from here the road forks, going across the isthmus to the south. And the northern “branch” goes to Sitia, running along rocky slopes past good shores at Cape Mokhlos and Psira Bay.

The main town and port and relatively unspoiled eastern "end" of Crete.

The main attraction in this area is undoubtedly famous beach Vai(Vai), lying east of Toplu and the town of Palekastron (Palekastron, 24 km east of Sitia). At this point, the ridges of Mount Modi (539 meters) and Shimoda (422 meters) diverge in the shape of the letter V, forming a cozy green valley overlooking the coast of Grandes Bay in the form of a luxurious sandy beach almost 6 km long. However, the main decoration of the area is the only natural palm grove in all of Europe, thanks to which this area has protected status. Despite this, the beach itself is flooded with tourists 9 months a year, and therefore the overall picture is quite unusual - on the one hand, camping is strictly prohibited here, there are absolutely no hotels (most tourists put up tents on the picturesque rocky capes in the north and south) and a not very favorable crime rate the setting, on the other hand, beautiful sand and sun loungers under palm trees create a clear illusion Caribbean Islands. However, you can stop and have lunch in Palekastrona or in the tiny villages of Angatia and Apevato, and near the beach itself, near the parking lot, there is a tavern (however, quite expensive), a cafe, and even toilets.

20 km to the south lies a mountain town (Zakros, or Ano Zakros, that is, “Upper Zakros”), near which another palace of the Minoan era was discovered.

Southeast coast of Crete

The main road from Sitia to the southern coast crosses the peninsula through a series of picturesque valleys, leading to the young resort Makriyalos(Makryialos) and the capital of the entire southern coast - Ierapetra.

Sama is a bustling modern agricultural centre, rather dull even with an ongoing modernization program that has cleared the city center of run-down houses and rejuvenated the waterfront. A fairly long beach a few kilometers east of the city limits, towards the village of Koutsounarion, as well as the island of Gaidhouronisi (or Chrissi), located 16 km from the coast, are perfect for relaxing here.

The small seaside town (18 km west of Ierapetra) is the first resort near the city that deserves real attention. After Myrtos, the main road goes deep into the island, making it difficult to communicate with small seaside resorts regions - only Keratokambos(Keratokambos) it goes to the coast again. However, nothing prevents you from reaching cozy bays Terza, Sidonia or Nea Arvi on a boat and relax on the rocky, but very picturesque local beaches. 10 km west of Keratokambos lies a cozy bay Tsoutsouros(Tsoutsouros) with a good gray sand beach, a number of resort hotels and boarding houses (however, the infrastructure itself is still poorly developed here).

South coast

Facing the coast of the Libyan Sea South part The region of Rethymno has clearly experienced a tourism boom in recent years. The once wild and inhospitable shores, known only for their cliffs and the drying winds that always blow from Africa, over the past 20 years have turned into a whole series of good beaches, especially popular in spring and autumn, when the northern coast of Crete is already frankly cool.

The best resort areas here are considered to be the village Plakias(Plakias) with a good beach and a whole string of restaurants along the coast, a town lying just above it in the hills Myrtios(Myrthios) with Taverna Plateia, which is famous for its cuisine and the most beautiful panoramas on the island from its terrace, the village Preveli(Preveli) with its good Limini beach and the famous monastery (another center of resistance - this time to the Nazis), as well as the picturesque fishing village Ayia Galini(Ayia Galini, Agia Galini), which has long turned into a beach resort always crowded with tourists.

But the coastal plain east of Agia Galini, literally hidden under the arches of greenhouses and concrete viaducts, is considered one of the “most dreary” in Crete. But immediately behind it the slopes of Ida and the ruins begin, so here you can meet a lot of transit tourists.

Western Crete

Numerous monuments of the westernmost part of the island of Crete are still little known to most tourists. Even despite the rapid development of the tourism industry in the region, the west remains (and will probably remain so for a long time) one of the most deserted parts of Crete. There are almost no sandy beaches, resort hotels or large archaeological sites. But as a place for active or ecological recreation, and close to good beaches and historical monuments, it is unsurpassed.

Around Chania

The ancient city is the second largest city of Crete and its spiritual capital.

To the north of Chania lies the large peninsula of Akrotiri, part of which is occupied by the NATO naval base "Suda". But northwestern coastline peninsula is developing rapidly as luxury resort- here you can visit an excellent beach Kalathas near the town of Horafakia and a less crowded beach Stavros with its calm shallow lagoon, and in the depths of the peninsula - monasteries Ayia Triada(Ayia-Trias-ton-Zangarolon) and Guvermet(Agios Ioanis Erymitos Gouvernetos), as well as the beautiful ruins of the monastery Catholico, literally built into a rocky gorge above a narrow harbor.

The southern coast of Chania Bay is slowly turning into one large but very calm resort area. IN Agia Marina there is a beautiful sandy beach, and an island visible a short distance from the shore Ayi-Theodori According to local legends, he is a sea monster turned to stone by Zeus because he tried to swallow all of Crete. Between the towns of Platanias and Kolymvari, Kolymvarion, the almost untouched coast is a complex “mosaic” of rocks, sandy banks and river mouths, deserted and often very windy, but very picturesque thanks to the thickets of calamus (it is often called “Cretan bamboo” here) ") and orange groves. At Kolymvari the road heads into the mountains, crossing the base of the Rodhopou peninsula. Just 1.5 km from main road lies here Gonya Monastery, famous for its resistance to the Turks (Turkish cannon balls still stick out here and there in the walls). And around it are concentrated another half a dozen ancient monasteries and temples varying degrees safety (the easiest way to get to them is from the town of Rodopos, which lies almost in the center of the “valley of monasteries”).

But the main point of attraction in the vicinity of Chania is the famous Samaria Canyon(Samaria Gorge), located in the southern part of the nome, 16 km from the administrative center. This is the longest river gorge in Europe - its length is 16 km and its width ranges from 3.5 to 500 meters. It begins with the path "xyloskalo" ("wooden staircase"), running steeply down from the southern lip of the Omalos plain - the Hermata tract. The trail then leads through the almost alpine landscape of the slopes of Mount Melidau (2133 m), the abandoned village of Samaria (now the office of the Lefka Ori Nature Reserve) and further down to the narrowest part, called the “Iron Gate”. At an average pace with stops, the descent will take only five or six hours, but appropriate footwear and clothing are necessary as the weather in the mountains is unpredictable (although it is rarely cold). And the lands stretch around Lefka Ori National Park(open from May to October, admission 5 euros), created specifically for the protection of the Cretan mountain goat Kri-Kri and other animals and plants of the White Mountains. Therefore, in addition to the gorge itself, you can find many interesting places for other types of recreation - in the vicinity of the village of Omalos there are many walking paths into the hills surrounding the plateau, passing through the most scenic spots areas.

The gorge ends in a seaside village Ayia Roumeli(Ayia Roumeli) with a good beach and taverns. But to get acquainted with south coast islands, it’s better to take a boat here and go to more interesting places- to the east, to rocky beaches Loutro(Loutro) and the impressive castle of Frangokastellon (XIII-XV centuries) on the cape of the same name to the east Chora-Sfakiona. Or to the west - to the ruins of the ancient city of Falasarna near the western point islands - towns Castellion(Kastellion, Kissamos or Kastelli Kissamou), to quiet villages Sfinari And Kambos with its cozy beaches, to the tiny uninhabited islet of Elafonisi with its magnificent turquoise lagoon and pink beaches, To picturesque town Palaiochora(Paleohora) with two excellent beaches on either side of the cape or to the deserted beach near the village Suya(Souya).

Beaches

In the south, the mountains approach the sea itself, the constant waves of which bring cooler waters to sand and pebble beaches and steep cliffs. The northern coast is famous for its wide sandy beaches and warm, calm sea ​​currents, thanks to which the water here warms up earlier than in neighboring Turkey. The western part of the island has a slightly more humid climate due to the nearby high mountains covered with lush vegetation, mountain rivers and a small lake. The eastern one is characterized by large and quiet bays, fertile plateaus and picturesque hills, and in the central part of the island they rise Rocky Mountains, on the tops of which snow remains until the end of May.

Life in the seaside towns and resort villages here is vibrant both day and night thanks to the abundance of shops, restaurants, disco bars and traditional taverns. In Crete, students who are looking for cheap hotels and the noise of discos, and respectable people accustomed to relaxing in fashionable hotels, and newlyweds, solitude seekers, and families with children. Variety of hotels, resort places and entertainment will allow everyone to choose for themselves exactly the kind of vacation that they want and can afford. The best sandy beaches, modern resorts with developed tourist infrastructure and comfortable hotels with a high level of service are located on the northern coast of the island.

The island of Crete is the mysterious homeland of the minotaur. A luxurious resort for the whole family among olive groves.

Beaches and sea of ​​Crete

The shores of Crete are caressed by three seas: in the west they are washed by the Ionian Sea, in the north by the Aegean Sea, and in the south and east by the Mediterranean. Sometimes the northern waters are called the Cretan Sea, and the southern ones - the Libyan Sea (these are parts of the Mediterranean Sea). The water warms up very quickly, so already in mid-April the first tourists swim off the Cretan shores.

Have different coating- there are sandy, pebble and mixed areas. Perhaps the most favorite beach among vacationers is Elafonisi. Couples with children come here, to the south of Crete - the entrance to the water is very smooth, and the sand is soft, light pink. Lovers snow-white sand, palm trees and silence choose east beach Wai. Divers flock to Balos Bay looking for pirate treasures in a sunken ship. In the island's capital, Heraklion, the sand and pebble beach of Paleokastro is popular. There are two notable beaches in the Chania region: Falasarna and Frangokastello (near the Venetian fortress).

Resorts of Crete

Crete is usually divided into four resort areas: Heraklion, Chania, Rethymnon and Lasithi. At each resort, tourists are guaranteed an azure sea and spacious, clean beaches surrounded by olive groves and vineyards.

Heraklion is a large city, the capital of the island of Crete. Tourists often stay in the areas of Agia Pelagia, Amoudara, Chersonossis, Stalida. From Heraklion it is convenient to go on excursions around the island and on sea cruises.

Lasithi is known for the “reserved” place for tourists, Agios Nikolaos, on the shores of Mirabello Bay. The Lasithi region is home to attractions such as the Cave of Zeus and the Valley of Windmills.

The cozy town of Chania is famous for its long beach. It is pleasant to walk along the local narrow streets, hiding from the heat in hospitable taverns.

Rethymno - picturesque resort town with several satellite villages. There is a thriving nightlife here, many colorful shops and beautiful long beaches.

Sights of Crete

The main Cretan “brand” is, of course, the Minotaur. It is impossible to do without a visit, where, according to legend, the monster lived. The myth says that the minotaur was the main trump card of the Minoan civilization - they traditionally used it to intimidate their neighbors, so much so that they annually sent seven young men and seven girls to “feed” the horned creature. Theseus put an end to the sacrifices, helped by Princess Ariadne with a ball of thread.

The Palace of Knossos was destroyed by an earthquake caused by the eruption of the Santorini volcano, 130 km from the island. It was not possible to restore it entirely - the territory of the palace is huge, its corridors, rooms and dungeons really resemble a labyrinth. and everyone can admire the ancient frescoes.

The second myth, which is also inextricably linked with Crete, is the birth of Zeus. According to legend, he was born in one of the caves, which is now called Dictey. The cave is truly impressive - it has stalactites, stalagmites, and even a beautiful underground lake.

The third myth is associated with Artemis and Athena. According to legend, the goddess of wisdom and the goddess of hunting loved to swim in the “bottomless” lake Vulizmeni. The lake is relatively small, but its depth is amazing: in the middle it is almost 64 meters! The lake is located in Agios Nikolaos.

Fans of natural attractions will also like it - the longest in Europe, as much as 18 kilometers. It is located in the Chania region and is famous for its unique flora and fauna - only here the Cretan cypress grows and the Kri-Kri goat runs around. If you are going to the gorge, do not forget about comfortable shoes. This place is very picturesque, there is even a palm forest - according to legend, the father of all date palms on the planet.

Cruises to the island, to its blue and white churches and black sand beaches, are popular. We recommend a trip to the island of Spinalonga, where half a century ago there was the largest leprosopria in Greece. Now this secluded place has turned into a find for tourists - there is an ancient fortress, narrow streets and many taverns and restaurants.

Cuisine of Crete

The cuisine of Crete is famous for its seafood and vegetables. Be sure to stop by the restaurant and try fish, octopus, shrimp and snails, which the locals call “khokhlya” or “escargot”.

Goats and sheep are raised in Crete, so the cheese and meat here are always fresh and very tasty. Try ofto - grilled lamb or goat meat; skafiani - lamb with cottage cheese; Delicious Kalitsunya pies fried in oil and filled with white cheese. Of course, you can find both horyatiki salad and moussaka in restaurants. Homemade wine, tsikoudia, and ouzo are served with the meal. You can try all these dishes at the “Cretan evening” - the tables will be laden with dishes, and national dances will delight your eyes.