Museums of Rostov the Great State Museum-Reserve "Rostov Kremlin". Art Gallery "Khors". Stagnation times for the Kremlin

Continuing to walk around the ancient Russian city of Rostov the Great, we visit its main attraction: the State Museum-Reserve of the Rostov Kremlin.

It turned out that when we got there in the evening, the museum was no longer working. The museum staff suggested that we just take a walk around its territory, since all the buildings were already closed. Of course, this walk was not free, and we decided to come tomorrow morning, in order to slowly visit all the buildings of the architectural ensemble of the Kremlin in Rostov.

Moreover, the day today was full of new impressions. We left early in the morning and already managed to visit 2 Rostov monasteries: and.

There was still a lot of time ahead, it was too early to go to bed. Therefore, at our general meeting, we made a decision and went to Lake Nero. Passing along the Kremlin wall illuminated by the setting sun,

We went down the steep stairs.

On the far right , domes gleamed above the gray waters of Lake Nero .

We walked along the shore of this reservoir, admiring the surrounding beauty, photographing the domes of the Kremlin in the rays of the setting sun.

Returning back, we accidentally came across a small museum of antiques. It had a big name: Art Gallery"Horse" by Mikhail Selishchev.

In an ordinary village house, several rooms were allocated for the exposition. In general, it was interesting to consider something that in our time is rarely used anywhere.

But during our trip to the numerous sights of the Yaroslavl region, we have already seen a lot of old rubbish. It was shown to us in and, so this did not add new impressions to us.

But in the courtyard of the museum there were many interesting things for our boys. After examining the exhibits of the museum, my nephews were offered to shoot from a crossbow. This action added new impressions. 😆

And then the boys were given rackets to play table tennis.

Their delight knew no bounds! And then you could still relax in a hammock in the fresh air.

So the evening was very active, with jokes and laughter.

Unusual locals

Our next day was dedicated to exploring architectural complex Kremlin. We arrived at the very opening, at 9 o'clock. But it turned out that again they didn’t guess a little with the opening hours of the museum: all churches and exhibitions work here only from 10.

We had to walk around for an hour. But we were not bored - after all, everything around was so majestic and beautiful!

In the center of the Kremlin, on the pond, we saw a family of ducks.

They were taking a morning walk and solemnly, one after another, filed past us on their urgent business to a small pond to swim and dive. So funny!

My Moscow nephews were downright stunned by the opportunity to observe live ducklings so closely!

Yes, what is there to be surprised at schoolchildren, even we adults watched with delight how funny the duck baby was walking and bathing. So the time in anticipation of the opening of museums and churches on the territory of the Kremlin flew by for us unnoticed.

Kremlin

Impressive Features

An hour passed quickly, and all the museums opened their doors for us. In general, the name "Kremlin" does not quite fit here. Because at the time when it was being built, Rostov was already in the center of Rus' and did not have such an important defensive value as before. Therefore, during its construction, some features used for protection during a siege were not used.

For example, one could enter the Kremlin through wide gates. The windows, as in ordinary peasant houses, were decorated with platbands, and there were no loopholes in the towers - all this was unacceptable during the defense.

But one way or another, the Kremlin became a monument of ancient military architecture in Rus' of early, even pre-Petrine times.

The history of the creation of "earthly paradise"

The Rostov stronghold was under construction for almost 15 years. The Kremlin was built between 1670 and 1683. Metropolitan Iona Sysoevich himself was the ideological inspirer and leader of this construction.

After the implementation of this grandiose idea, the appearance of a real earthly paradise, exactly as it is described in the Bible: the Garden of Eden, surrounded by thick walls with towers, and in the center is a pond with mirror-clear water. The thickness of the Kremlin walls is 2 meters, and their height is about 12.

Approximately 100 years later, the episcopal chair was transferred to Yaroslavl, and the Metropolitan court was left without attention and proper care. Services in churches ceased, and all buildings began to be used as warehouses.

After another 100 years, it was restored, and after a while the future Russian Tsar Nicholas II took it under his guardianship and patronage, and The State Duma I decided to regularly allocate a decent amount of money for maintenance.

Unique monument of the past

The entire adjacent Kremlin territory can be divided, conditionally of course, into 3 parts independent of each other. This is clearly visible on the map of the Kremlin (it can be enlarged to better see all the buildings).

The most important central part is the Bishop's court. Assumption Cathedral on the square, which used to be called the Cathedral - is Northern part. To the south is the metropolitan garden with apple trees.

The Kremlin includes 11 towers.

Temples of the Rostov Kremlin

Magnificent Assumption Cathedral

It should be noted that the Assumption Cathedral, which we see today, was built back in 1512.

The temple became the 5th building on this site. His cross is at a height of more than 60 meters. And the first, as the story says, was the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Mother of God built here. It appeared much earlier in 991, during the reign of Prince Vladimir, and became one of the very first outstanding temples in all of Rus'.

Such an interesting fact is known, and it is documented that at one time the rector of this particular cathedral was the father of the legendary Alyosha Popovich, sung in epics and tales of the Russian hero.

According to its architectural plan, the Assumption Cathedral of the Rostov Kremlin is similar to the cathedral of the same name in nearby Moscow. It is likely that the architects who built it often traveled to the capital and took something for their work from there. During the Time of Troubles, the cathedral did not escape the fate of the entire city. It was completely plundered by enemies from the army of False Dmitry, and the metropolitan himself was captured.

The most luxurious, simply royal iconostasis was installed here back in 1736. Fortunately, it has been preserved in its original form. The founder of the Kremlin - Iona Sysoevich, many Russian princes and representatives of the clergy of Rostov are buried here.

Resurrection Church

One of the very first grandiose buildings in Rostov the Great, which appeared under Ion Sysoevich, was the Church of the Resurrection. Its foundation dates back to 1670.

On the facade of the building there are pedestrian and travel gates. This church is over the gate, and the passage under it to the house was guarded.

Her richly decorated gallery immediately catches the eye. The mural painting of the temple was made in 1675 by Yaroslavl and Kostroma masters.

Unusual arches lead inside the temple premises. They are very reminiscent.

In the Church of the Resurrection of the Rostov Kremlin, there is no wooden iconostasis familiar to us. Instead, there is a stone wall that separates the altar from the rest of the temple space.

The windows in the church are large and located high enough. It allows you to enter the temple sunlight. Together, all this creates a particularly solemn and majestic atmosphere.

And now there is still an entrance to the Kremlin walls. Is it possible to deny yourself the pleasure of walking along the ancient corridors?

From here you can better see the Kremlin buildings. The whole territory is visible at a glance.

Church of John the Evangelist

The existing Church of St. John the Theologian of the Rostov Kremlin is also over the gate. It was built a little later than the others, and became one of the last in the beautiful ensemble of the old Rostov Kremlin of the 17th century. Probably, by this time, both architects and craftsmen had gained enough experience.

Therefore, this temple, in terms of its proportions and external decoration, looks the most elegant in comparison with the rest of the buildings of the Kremlin. It looks especially beautiful from the side of the Kremlin courtyard. Here you can clearly see how the division of the facade is going on - first comes the basement, then the altar, then the temple part and beautiful drums with graceful domes.

Church of Hodegetria

The two-storey Hodegetria Church, built in 1693, is rectangular. Looks very unusual and elegant.

The church itself operated on the upper tier.

Inside, its vaults and walls are decorated with 20 unusually shaped stucco cartouches.

Now it houses a collection of sculptures, icons, silverware of the 17th century, as well as the clothes of the clergy, which were previously used in the celebration of the liturgy.

Differences of gate churches

The Holy Gates are located in the northern corner of the Kremlin fence. They were built at the beginning of the 18th century, and they led directly to the square in front of the Assumption Cathedral.

Spasskaya church-tower

In 1675, another Church of the Savior on Senya was built. It was erected on the site of a wooden church that used to stand here on a stone basement. In 1671 swipe lightning completely destroyed the wooden house. And over time, a temple was erected in its place, which stands here and now.

This church is remarkable in that its architecture contains features of the decorative ornaments of the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, but only without undue pomposity.

The Church of the Savior differs from other local churches - it has one dome. Its light drum is built on a pedestal that also has light openings. The basement turns out to be two-story. Thanks to this appearance, slightly elongated proportions, a gilded dome, raised high on a thin drum, the Church of the Savior Not Made by Hands on Senya looks like a high, beautiful tower.

And although the outside of the church has rather simple forms, not distinguished by rich details, its interior is striking in its luxury and surprising richness. Among all the other Kremlin buildings, it has no equal in this. Probably, the whole point is that this building was the home church of the Metropolitan.

From the very beginning, it was conceived for special occasions: divine services in the presence of a large number of clergy and guests of honor. The interior of the church is simply luxurious! The gilded arcade located there is especially impressive. The parapet is richly decorated with frescoes.

Each church is necessarily different from other temples of the Rostov Kremlin. Thus, the Church of St. Gregory the Theologian of the Rostov Kremlin in 1670 is distinguished by the absence of drums in it with windows for lighting.

Initially, it was built on "old stone chambers", and the entire interior space was beautifully painted by artists. But the strongest fire that occurred in 1730 destroyed the beautiful murals. Restoring historical monuments, they were replaced with stucco frames with paintings, but not so ancient.

Iridescent chimes of Rostov

The famous belfry

The famous belfry of the Assumption Cathedral, which is part of the Rostov Kremlin complex, was founded at the end of the 17th century.

According to the personal order of the Metropolitan, almost simultaneously, 13 bells of different weights were created at once. The first "Polyelein" weighed 16000 kg, the next "Swan" - 8000 kg. The largest and heaviest bell on the belfry of the Rostov Kremlin bears the name "Sysoy". Its weight is 32000 kg!

Each bell differed from the others in its tonality. The melodies produced by them were striking in their euphony and harmony. Each of them bore its own interesting name: Zazvonny, Baran, Krasny and others.

At the end of the 19th century, the belfry, its bell collection, was replenished with two more ringing bells. All 15 bells delight us so far.

An interesting fact is not only that, despite all life's drinking, all the bells have been preserved, but also that the notes of special bell tones are still carefully preserved: Georgievsky, Ioninsky and many others. There is even a special "Ring with Sysoy".

Museum of Bells

Now there is an exposition of bells and bells in the Kremlin. During the tour, we were told a lot of new, interesting and surprising things about bells, bells and bells.

There are a huge number of them here! And almost everyone has their own story, their own voice.

Earlier in Rus', bells had many different purposes, because bell ringing accompanied a person almost all his life. They called on holidays and in difficult times, reported on fires and attacks by enemies, and also called for church services.

And smaller bells were used in everyday life. They were attached to horse teams, hung around the neck of animals so that they would not get lost.

We were also allowed to ring some bells. Beauty!

Kremlin Chambers

white chamber

The White Chamber is a large, almost square building with large windows in which colored glass is inserted. Perhaps the only external decoration is a massive porch in front of the entrance.

This architectural monument was built in 1675 as a dining room of the bishop's house.

Previously, the room was decorated with frescoes. But, unfortunately, they did not survive. A long time ago there was a refectory at the Metropolitan's Spassky house church.

Now there is a museum of church antiquities. Among the exhibits are crosses, crucifixes, amazingly beautiful icons.

The main museum value is a rare, 16th century altar cross.

Also here are several types of weapons. For example, here are such clumsy (in my opinion) guns on wooden wheels.

As well as pieces of furniture, antique interiors

and here is such a funny lion, incomprehensibly showing his tongue to anyone. 😀

The chambers themselves are not distinguished by any special luxury. Their decorations are unusual windows that end with original arches with weights and two very beautiful gilded chimneys on the roof of the house.

Under a common roof with the White Chamber is the Otdatochnaya Chamber. We can say that it was like a hallway and used to be a reception area for visitors. There were no special frills here. Everything you need: icons, benches and chandeliers. There were also cabinets with beautifully painted doors. Apparently, they were used to store a variety of dishes and various items for the meal.

Red means beautiful

The architecture of the Red Chamber of the Rostov Kremlin is interesting. It is two-tiered and built in the shape of the letter "L".

Previously, on the lower floor there were a bakery and a few more living rooms. Above the bakery was a dining room. Its walls were decorated with amazing frescoes.

For the beauty of the dining room, the whole building was called the Red Chamber. It is very beautiful from the outside - the decorated porch leading to the upper floor, decorated with thick pillars, curly architraves - all this reminds beautiful palace from a fairytale.

A hotel is now open on the 1st floor, where you can relax a bit. And the second floor is occupied by an exhibition of unique items of the past. These are, for example, the seal of Yaroslav the Wise, ancient crosses, a sword of the 10th century, brought from Western Europe, and many other very, very old ones.

Church long-term construction

According to the location of the Samuilov complex, if you look at the scheme of the Rostov Kremlin, it occupies central location throughout the architectural ensemble.

It was possible to go anywhere through the hanging gallery from it: to any residential or storage room and to any tower of the Kremlin.

It is interesting that its construction stretched for centuries. As they would say now - long-term construction. The first floor was built in the 16th century. According to the surviving old documents, there were 13 chambers-rooms.

And only in the 17th century, a hundred years later (!) the second floor appeared. They were connected to each other by two narrow stairs, which were built into thick walls. Here, on the second floor, there were cells where the metropolitans lived. There were also the Cross Chamber, as well as the Judicial Chamber, a canopy. Bypassing the first floor, one could climb the high porch to the second floor.

Since then, little has been preserved here. In the 18th century, the upper floor was completely redone under the leadership of Archbishop Samuil Mislavsky, and a third floor also appeared. Hence the name - Samuilov complex.

Art objects are now on display. Ancient Rus', such as icons of the 12th century, covers from the tombs of Rostov miracle workers, church items - a water-blessing cup and a gilded censer from the Assumption Cathedral.

A few more Kremlin chambers

The two-storey house on the cellars got its name because it really stands on the cellars.

There are also hierarchical chambers, which were equipped specifically for the housing of hierarchs in them. For example, the father of the first of the tsars of the Romanov family lived here for some time. Frescoes from the 15th century have been preserved here.

A special decoration of the chambers are the numerous chimneys on the roof, which the craftsmen, with their imagination and skillful craftsmanship, turned into small delightful chimney towers.

It is known that the Hierarchal Chambers were built in the 1670s. They served as a travel palace for Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich. Naturally, the interior decoration was distinguished by a special, royal luxury.

In the wood tower, as the name implies, they dried and subsequently stored firewood.

lookout tower

And I would also advise you to go up to the observation deck of the Water Tower and admire the amazing view from the height of the Kremlin and its surroundings. I just want to warn you that the entrance here will need to be paid separately.

Yes, you still have to climb the narrow stone old steps, and then along the wooden stairs.

But you immediately forget about physical activity as soon as you find yourself OVER the Kremlin! All that remains is admiration and admiration.

All the Kremlin buildings seem so small. And you are already surprised how it was possible to get lost in such a small area out of habit. Oh, how we didn’t think so when we were trying to understand below where we are now and where we should go. 🙂

Only now, when we have risen above all the roofs, can we freely marvel at the beauty of the panorama that opens before us: with the huge Lake Nero and numerous Rostov churches and temples, which are also located outside the Kremlin.

Film, film, film

Well, in our time, the Rostov Kremlin has also become famous for the fact that episodes of some famous films were filmed here. The most famous of them is "Ivan Vasilyevich Changes His Profession", a wonderful comedy that everyone watched, probably.

And now we also have the opportunity to walk along the same famous walls.

Recall famous movie clips.

And capture the same buildings.

How much is a king's life worth

State Museum-Reserve GMZ " Rostov Kremlin"- a magnificent monument of history and architecture of the distant past in Rostov. Upon closer examination, it causes genuine admiration for the talent, imagination and skill of Russian craftsmen. Come and you can see for yourself.

The museums are open daily from 10:00 to 17:00. But the territory is open longer: on Friday and Saturday from 9.00 to 20.00, and from Sunday to Thursday from 9.00 to 17.00.

A single entrance ticket costs 550 rubles. But this does not include visiting all exhibition expositions. You can buy just an entrance ticket for 50 rubles. Well, then buy in addition to those places where it is interesting to go.

You can familiarize yourself with the prices for sightseeing the Kremlin in advance in order to understand in advance the cost of the upcoming trip. All data is current as of summer 2016.

I was very pleased that children under 16 can visit many exhibitions and objects for free. You can also order excursion programs. This is true for those who come to the Kremlin on their own.

Kremlin address: Yaroslavl region, Rostov the Great, Cathedral Square. Coordinates: 57.18445, 39.41517.

You can see where the Kremlin and the buildings on its territory are located on the map (click "+" to zoom in, and "-" to zoom out objects).

On this our trip to Rostov the Great, we stayed at the hotel:. On the site you can find many other accommodation options in the city. And look for comfortable and inexpensive living conditions on the site. Here are a lot of apartments and rooms in different parts of Rostov. You just have to choose!

We walked around the Kremlin and next to it on July 18 and 19, 2016. Other sights of the Yaroslavl region, where I managed to visit, are on this map.

And you can see this and other sights of Rostov the Great together with a professional guide by ordering an excursion program.

Address: Russia, Yaroslavl region, Rostov the Great
Start of construction: 1670
Completion of construction: 1683
Number of towers: 11 pcs.
Main attractions: Assumption Cathedral, belfry of the Assumption Cathedral, Gate Church of the Resurrection, Judgment Order, Church of St. John the Theologian, Church of Hodegetria, Church of the Savior Not Made by Hands (in the hallway), Church of St. Gregory the Theologian, Red Chamber, White Dining Chamber
Coordinates: 57°11"05.2"N 39°24"59.6"E
An object cultural heritage Russian Federation

The construction of the Kremlin in Rostov was carried out in the period from 1670 to 1683. The local metropolitan Iona Sysoevich was the customer for the construction work. According to his plan, the building was supposed to convey paradise in its full accordance with the biblical description. In religious literature, paradise is represented as a garden with a pond in the center, and the garden itself is surrounded by walls with towers.

Kremlin from a bird's eye view

In 1787, the metropolis moved to Yaroslavl, so the Rostov Metropolitan Court (another name for the Kremlin) lost its purpose and gradually fell into decay. Divine services were no longer held in the local churches, and the bishops planned to sell the entire metropolitan complex for scrap.

However, the Kremlin escaped such an unenviable fate thanks to the enlightened city merchants - the architectural ensemble was restored with the funds allocated to them (the work was carried out in the 60s and 80s of the 19th century).

View of the Rostov Kremlin from Lake Nero

In the autumn of 1883, in the Kremlin chamber called "White" was opened Rostov Museum church antiquities. The initiators of this decision were Titov A.A. and Shlyakov I.A. Since 1886, the museum came under the patronage of the heir to the imperial throne of tsarist Russia - it was Nicholas II, who later became tsar. In 1910, the State Duma finally secured the all-Russian status for the institution and decided to allocate a certain amount from the treasury for its maintenance. In 1953, due to a strong tornado, most of the monuments of the ensemble were damaged, but somewhat later they were all restored.

From left to right: Hodegetrievskaya tower, Church of St. John the Evangelist, main entrance, cash register

The territory of the Rostov Kremlin is represented by three zones. These are the Bishop's Yard, the Metropolitan Garden and the Cathedral Square. It is also located here oldest building city ​​- the five-domed Assumption Cathedral, built in the distant XVI century. majestic building shrine took the place of another, more ancient temple, at one time built of stone. The outer part of the Cathedral of the Assumption is finished with a variety of decorative details that give the building a special expressiveness.

Architectural features of the Rostov Kremlin

In addition to the Assumption Cathedral and the belfry, there were also administrative buildings on the territory of the Metropolitan's Court. One of them was the building of the Judgment Order.

From left to right: Church of Hodegetria, Assumption Cathedral, Church of the Resurrection

A two-storey building appeared here in the middle of the 17th century. Some time later, a gate church of the Resurrection with a pair of fortress towers was erected next to it. Directly under the church were the Holy Gates, which acted as the main entrance to the courtyard. Due to the small number of architectural delights in the upper part of the church, it seems formidable like watchtower. But the lower part, flowing into the arch of the Holy Doors, thanks to the icon case, tiles and brick pattern, seems simply luxurious.

Also, according to the plan of Jonah, metropolitan mansions were erected for his residence and the preservation of considerable monetary savings.

Church of the Resurrection

Initially, they were a 2-story building, but at the end of the 17th century a 3rd floor was added to them, and a century later the whole building was decorated with classic decor. Today, the metropolitan mansions are identified by the narrow windows on the first floor and the ornamental belt.

State mansions, or the Red Chamber, is another solid building that is a landmark of the Rostov Kremlin. The special beauty of the building is achieved by the porch, completed with two tents. No less valuable historical monument on the territory of the Bishop's Court there remains a complex of the Church of the Savior of the Icon Not Made by Hands.

Church of St. John the Evangelist, view from the courtyard of the Kremlin

The lower floor of this building, erected in 1675, was occupied by household services, on the upper floor there was the church building itself, the Otdatochny chambers and the Refectory. This shrine was considered the home temple of Jonah.

The Gate Church of St. John the Evangelist with five domes was built last. It became the best building of that time - it was distinguished from previous buildings by rich decor on the entire outer surface of the building. The elongation of the main part of the shrine, together with the drums, makes it visually taller. The construction of the Hodegetria Church was the final point in the formation of the ensemble of the Rostov Kremlin.

Church of Hodegetria

As for the Kremlin walls and towers, their erection was usually carried out after the construction of most buildings. As befits real fortress walls, they were equipped with loopholes. At the same time, wide window openings were cut in the Kremlin towers, which is not typical for a fortress. From the general decoration of the towers, it also becomes clear that neither the towers nor the walls played any protective role, and the loopholes served as a tribute to traditions.

From buildings economic importance special attention deserve their own brewery and bakery. Their design was quite primitive, which made both buildings stand out against the backdrop of the rich residence of the metropolitan.

Left to right: Assumption Cathedral, belfry

Modern life of the Rostov Kremlin

Today the Rostov Kremlin exists as a museum-reserve of national importance. It is also the repository of the largest collection of finift - the oldest art of painting on enamel. Arriving in Rostov in the 17th century, it has remained in demand in the city to this day.

The art gallery of the museum is represented by several halls. They exhibit portraits of the local nobility and merchants, nobles in the 18th - 19th centuries. The works of Russian artists famous in the late 18th and early 20th centuries are also kept here. Among their works there is also the avant-garde.

Red Chamber

Inside the White Chamber of the Kremlin, which previously served as a dining room for the Rostov rulers, an exposition of church antiquities has been deployed. In part, it reproduces the first exposition of 1883. In the Red Chamber, built for the great sovereigns, cutters of beads, porcelain, and ceramics are on display today. There is also a valuable exhibition called "Archaeology of the Rostov Land".

Amazing story small town- the center of the ancient principality, on the outskirts of which Moscow itself was born. In ancient Rostov the Great, many unique relics and wonderful folk crafts have been preserved. Therefore, guests who come to see the city on the shores of Lake Nero have plenty to choose from. In the Kremlin alone, there are about a dozen museum expositions. In addition, there are also several interesting museums in the immediate vicinity of Rostov: the Art Museum-Workshop of the Toporkov family in the city of Petrovsk, the Baklush Museum and the Jam Library in the village of Semibratovo, and the Porechensky Gardener Museum in the village of Porechie - Rybnoye.

Museums of the Rostov Kremlin

There are several museum collections on the territory of the Rostov Kremlin. The Museum Lounge with multimedia screens helps the visitors of the Kremlin to orient themselves in the huge flow of information, find the necessary objects, view maps of the city and its environs. It is located on the first floor of the Red Chamber. From here you can make virtual tours to any museum, monastery or historical site of Rostov the Great and the region.

In the halls of the Samuil building there is a permanent exhibition dedicated to ancient Russian art. It exhibits ancient icons, skillful casting, fine embroidery, wood and bone carvings, as well as valuable items for church services. But that's not all! The richest and most complete collection of church utensils, sculptures and icons is located in the Hodegetria Temple of the Kremlin and is called “Gold and Azure Shines”. In addition, the exposition of the old Museum of Church Antiquities, which existed in Rostov from 1883 to the early 1920s, has been recreated in the White Chamber.

Two halls of a specially created historical exposition tell about the ancient past of the Rostov land. This is a collection of unique archaeological finds made on the territory of Rostov and the region - bones and skulls of prehistoric animals and tools of labor of primitive people. And about the later development of the region can be found on the second floor of the Red Chamber. Almost 1.5 thousand exhibits are placed here, telling about the history of Rostov and the Rostov land of the 7th - 15th centuries.

One of the most popular collections of the Kremlin is the Enamel Museum, opened more than 15 years ago. Many visitors are also attracted by the collection of Yamsky bells and bells, and the medal cabinet, where rare coins and commemorative medals are exhibited.

Schedule

The Kremlin Museums are open daily from 10.00 to 17.00.

Address

It is not difficult to walk from the railway station in Rostov to the territory of the Kremlin in 15-20 minutes.

Museum of Rostov Merchants

You can imagine what a city merchant's estate of the 19th century looked like by visiting the exposition, which tells about members of the family of respected Rostov merchants Kekins. The representative of this dynasty, Alexei Leontyevich Kekin, at one time contributed a lot to the restoration work in the Rostov Kremlin and the creation of the Museum of Church Antiquities. Guests of the Museum of Rostov Merchants are greeted by masterfully recreated interiors of the estate, household items, old engravings with views of the city and portraits of Rostov merchants.

Schedule

The homestead welcomes visitors from 10.00 to 17.00. Monday and Tuesday are days off.

Address

The museum exposition is located in the house 32 on the street. Leninskaya.

Museum of the factory "Rostov Finift"

Rostov has long been famous for its enamel craft. The quality of decorative glazes made by local craftsmen is highly valued all over the world. The museum, organized at the city factory, presents the products of the best artists and designers created in different years. Interestingly, master classes are held here to teach the unique technique of painting on enamel plates.

Schedule

From Tuesday to Friday from 9.00 to 16.00, with a break from 12.00 to 13.00.

Address

The museum is located in building 3 on the Borisoglebskoe highway.

Art Gallery "Khors"

A private exhibition of works by talented artist Mikhail Selishchev captivates all visitors. Highly artistic panels and miniatures made in the complex technique of enamel are exhibited here. In addition, the gallery exhibits a collection of items of everyday life of Rostovites of the 19th - early 20th centuries.

Schedule

Daily from 15.00 to 20.00.

Address

The gallery is located in an old wooden house, not far from the Kremlin, on the street. Podozerka, 31.

Museum "Lukova Sloboda"

The modern interactive museum will especially appeal to parents with children. It is dedicated to the onion - the traditions of its cultivation and storage, folk superstitions and rituals. All museum guests are treated to fragrant tea with an onion bun. And for those who wish, master classes are held here on weaving beautiful onion braids, making dolls and amulets, as well as painting using the batik technique.

Schedule

Daily from 9.00 to 18.00.

Address

Museum "Pike Yard"

The playful theatrical program of the museum is designed for children, although it will not leave indifferent and adult visitors. The museum introduces the legends and traditions of Lake Nero, fishing tales, and also shows a puppet show "At the command of the pike."

Schedule

Daily from 9.00 to 18.00.

Address

The museum is located at 39 Dostoevsky Street.

Museum "Golden Hive"

The exposition dedicated to the development of beekeeping in Russia is located both indoors and outdoors. In the museum you can see different types of beehives, beekeeping equipment, as well as try several varieties of honey, fragrant honey gingerbread and kvass made with honey.

Schedule

Daily from 10.00 to 17.00.

Address

The museum is located on Sovetskaya Square in Rostov, in the city park.

House of Crafts

Amazingly beautiful exhibitions of black-glazed ceramics, birch bark products, lace makers, wicker products and carved wooden sculptures are presented in the House of Crafts, which is located on the shores of Lake Nero. In addition to finished products, in the museum you can see the work of craftsmen with your own eyes, as well as learn from them the technique of modeling clay and dough, making dolls, creating souvenirs from leather and birch bark, as well as painting wooden handicrafts.

Schedule

Daily from 11.00 to 19.00. Monday and Tuesday are days off.

Address

The museum is located at 16, 2nd Tolstovsky Proyezd, right next to the Slavyansky restaurant.

Craft Yard "Firebird"

If you want to learn the secrets of blacksmithing, you need to go on an excursion to the Rostov craft yard "Firebird". It not only shows the tools that are traditionally used in the Russian forge, but also gives the museum guests the opportunity to take part in the difficult process of forging.

Schedule

From 10.00 to 17.00. Monday and Tuesday are days off.

Address

Leninskaya Street, 32, in the backyard of the Kekins' estate.

Weapons museum

Directly opposite the Kremlin is a museum displaying a collection of weapons from the Great Patriotic War. In the exposition you can see the weapons used by both the soldiers of the USSR and the soldiers of the Wehrmacht.

In the history of Rus' there were only two Great cities - Veliky Novgorod and Rostov the Great. Today we will find ourselves in Rostov the Great - an ancient Russian city that has left a glorious mark on our history. It is the Rostov Kremlin that is one of the most beautiful in the world, definitely evoking from the depths of the unconscious the image of a fabulous epic Russian city.

This historical place and, captivating not only with its ancient Russian flavor, but also with something special that made the heart beat faster from the very realization of where you are and what you see. Since childhood, we all know the image of the Rostov Kremlin according to the already domestic film classics “Ivan Vasilyevich Changes His Profession” and not only. Its majestic walls, towers, temples evoke an archetypal image of light, mighty Rus' in the Russian person and fill it with undivided love for their Fatherland. Lake Nero, on the banks of which the Rostov Kremlin stands, is worthy of special mention, since it evoked a lot of different exciting emotions in my soul, including during the processing of these photographs.

On the fourth day of my journey along the Golden Ring, the weather began to deteriorate, in the morning a fine, nasty rain began to drizzle, so that the whitish skies are in fact the very ones that I saw at that time. Since there is always a positive component in every event, such a gloomy context only contributed to my solemn and strict perception of this amazing architectural structure in Rostov the Great, which, perhaps, has no equal at all.

One note. Since at least two posts of different emotional components have accumulated visual material, I faced a dilemma - to talk about the Rostov Kremlin, paying selective attention to it architectural masterpieces, giving clear concise information about them, posting target photos or try to convey to you how my visit to the Rostov Kremlin went in great detail and post the photos in chronological order. In the end, I decided to use the second option, because for the reader, perhaps the integrity of the story, its logical outline and the impressions received in this continuous process are important.

Even in the most distant times, here - at the confluence of the Sara River into Lake Nero, a Finno-Ugric settlement was founded, now called "Sarsky". Four high shafts then divided this settlement into three parts. Later, in the X-XI centuries, a mixed population lived in this place with a significant proportion of Slavs (Slovenes and Krivichi). For more than 20 years, from 988, Yaroslav the Wise reigned in it. At the end of his short life, the city was also ruled by his younger brother Prince Boris, who became one of the first Russian saints. Sergius of Radonezh was baptized here, and one of the abbots was the father of the legendary Russian hero Alyosha Popovich. However, first things first.

Rostov remained the capital of the northeastern possessions of the Russian princes until 1125, when Prince Yuri Dolgoruky moved the center of his possessions to Suzdal. In 1207, Rostov the Great became the main city of a small specific principality. It had its own icon-painting school. Local monasteries - Petrovsky, St. John the Theologian - were the centers of book learning. Especially famous was the St. Grigorievo-Theological Monastery called “The Shutter”, where famous monks studied, including Stefan of Perm and Epiphanius the Wise. Despite the annexation of the Rostov Principality to the Moscow Principality in the 15th century, the significance of the city was preserved.

Rostov remained the center of the archdiocese, and then the metropolis, from the 11th century until the end of the 18th century. Therefore, from ancient times the city was built up with buildings that would correspond to its position as the spiritual center of a vast Christian region. So, back in the 11th century, the first monastery in the Rostov land, Abrahamiev, was founded here, which has survived to this day. Large-scale construction in Rostov was also carried out in the middle of the 12th century under Vladimir Prince Andrei Bogolyubsky and at the beginning of the 13th century under Konstantin, the son of Grand Duke Vsevolod the Big Nest.

The Tatar-Mongol invasion for almost 200 years suspended, as well as throughout the territory of Rus', monumental construction in Rostov. But, starting from the 15th century, it resumes. In the middle of the 16th century - during the heyday of Russia's international trade across the White Sea, in which Rostov also participated - a large stone construction was being carried out here. The art of Rostov architects was known far beyond the Rostov land. They were invited to build in Moscow, the Kirillo-Belozersky Monastery and other places. But the most grandiose structures erected in the second half of the 17th century. This is the Bishop's House, which has been under construction since the 1660s for more than 30 years. In the 19th century, it began to be called one short sonorous word "Kremlin".

The construction of the Kremlin began after the return in 1664 of the Metropolitan of Rostov, Iona III Sysoevich, from Moscow, where he served as Locum Tenens of the Patriarchal Throne for two years. Jonah, following Patriarch Nikon, considered such buildings a means of asserting the power of the Church and metropolitan authority. Therefore, their rapid construction began in Rostov. Jonah's idea involved the creation of paradise on this site in full accordance with the biblical description: a garden of Eden surrounded by walls and towers with a pond mirror in the center.
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According to the head of the architectural department of the Rostov Kremlin A.G. Melnik, “according to the plan of Metropolitan Jonah, the ensemble was supposed to symbolize the heavenly city - the mountain Jerusalem with unprecedented clarity for that time.” And according to the Apocalypse, the heavenly Jerusalem "has a large and high wall, has twelve gates." The residence of the metropolitans is an almost rectangular fortress with walls 2 meters thick, up to 12 meters high and 12 towers.

The Kremlin was not designed for defense. Its machicules (hinged loopholes), loopholes and crevices, platbands, decorative belts and plaits perform a decorative function. And many repeating elements of traditional church architecture - five domes, columnar belts (a decorative motif of small arches), gabled pediments - create the impression of antiquity and unity of the ensemble, reflecting the greatness of the Russian Church.

In the photo to the right of the Hodegetria Church - the Assumption Cathedral behind a high stone wall and the Church of the Resurrection, and under it - the transition to the Cathedral Square. The church is very beautiful, but at the time when I was there it was almost completely covered with scaffolding.
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In the center of the Kremlin there is an open square with a square pond in the middle, next to which there was an apple orchard in the old days. Along the perimeter of the picturesque asymmetric composition are civil and church buildings.
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The building of the Judgment Order was built first in the 1650s-1660s. It was the center of general administration of the diocese, and also carried the role of judicial functions.
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Already around 1670, a characteristic building was erected next to it in the “style of Iona Sysoevich” - the northern Holy Gate with the five-domed Church of the Resurrection, surrounded by a gallery. Frescoes with graceful, slender figures and an abundance of architectural and landscape backgrounds were painted around 1675 under the direction of Dmitry Plekhanov and Gury Nikitin. They depict in detail gospel events, including the suffering of Christ. The gallery of the temple is painted with scenes from the Old Testament and the Apocalypse.

Church of the Resurrection - on the right."Judgment order" - is visible a little more to the right of the Church of the Resurrection.
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On the opposite south side courtyard is the building of the metropolitan choir. Its first floor was built in the 16th century, and the second - in the early 1670s. After 100 years, in the 1770s, under Archbishop Samuil Mislavsky, a third floor was added, the building received a new classic look and was renamed the Samuil Corps. Nearby are the State mansions, which were intended to meet the sovereign. They were built in the 1670s, partially dismantled in 1840 and reconstructed in 1968-1969.
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Behind the Samuil building, the complex building of the White Canteen, erected in 1672, is "hidden". Its one-pillar interior goes back to the Moscow Palace of Facets. In 1675, a one-domed house church of the Savior on Senya was added to it. We'll take a look at it too.

To the left of the Samuil building is a two-story red building, the so-called "House in the Cellars".
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"The House on the Cellars" got its name due to the fact that it stood just on them. A two-story building adjoining the Hierarch's Chambers and the Water Tower from the north. The building is very simple and devoid of any decorating elements, only a few windows in the basement have platbands, the other two floors are completely devoid of them. Arched lintels are replaced by flat three-center ones. The second floor is made of wood, so it was often exposed to fires, after the fire of 1758, the log house stood for more than 200 years and was finally replaced in 1973-1974.
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Outbuildings of the 16th-17th centuries are adjacent to the southern and eastern walls of the Kremlin: a cookery and an acolyte, a brewery, a dryer on the glacier and storage chambers, as well as the Hierarchal Chambers, in which, according to legend, at the beginning of the 17th century, Metropolitan Filaret of Rostov, the father of Tsar Mikhail, lived Fedorovich. Almost all buildings of the Kremlin were united by transitional and "hanging" galleries.
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Hierarchical chambers in the background.
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Church of the Savior on Senya from the side of the Hierarch's chambers.
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In 1683, the western gate was built with two towers and a slender five-domed gate church of John the Theologian on a high basement. The four lower tiers of frescoes are dedicated to the lives of John the Theologian and Abraham of Rostov. Of particular interest is the painted stone iconostasis, which is rare in other cities. In addition to the Church of St. John the Evangelist, such iconostases have been preserved in the Churches of the Resurrection and the Savior on Senya.

To the left of the photo is the Church of St. John the Evangelist
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It is believed that the construction of this church was the final link in the creation unique look ensemble of the royal residence, in the embodiment of the grandiose plan of the customer and creator of this ensemble - the Rostov Metropolitan Jonah. Among the temples of the Bishop's House, the Church of St. John the Theologian stands out for the exquisite harmony of its proportions and the elegance of the design of the facades. Even Y. Shamurin considered it the best architecturally of all the Kremlin churches.
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After the transfer of the bishop's chair to Yaroslavl in 1788, the Church of John the Theologian, like other house churches, was left without worship. The premises under it began to be used for wine and salt warehouses. At the same time, the outer openings of the gates were laid, the structures of the vaults were damaged, and the iron ties were sawn out. The walls of the church began to sag, the building as a whole was tilted, and by the beginning of the 19th century it was in disrepair.
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In 1698, the successor of Iona Sysoevich, Metropolitan Ioasaf Lazarevich, completed the construction of the last church in the ensemble of the Rostov Kremlin - the Church of Hodegetria. He tried to continue the building policy of his predecessor, but the best times of the Rostov metropolitan house had already passed: the reforms of Peter I undermined his economic power.
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The temple closely adjoins the wall of the bishop's house. The first floor was used for domestic purposes, since there were many rooms. IN architectural style, the Hodegetria church is more suitable for the Baroque style of the second half of the 17th century.
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Already under the successor of Metropolitan Jonah - Joasaph in 1692-1693, a separate refectory chamber was built with a pillarless church in honor of the Smolensk Icon of the Mother of God. With its slightly later design - coloring in "chess", 20 stucco cartouches and bas-relief angels and cherubs in the spirit of the Naryshkin baroque - this building stands out from the general ensemble of the Kremlin.

The Red Chamber got its name due to its beauty, and the whole palace got the same name from it.

The Red Chamber is on the left.
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The Red Chamber has two floors in its structure. On the first floor, with an area of ​​250 sq.m. there was "Khlebnaya", as well as eight residential chambers.
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The vaults of the "bread" rested on a pillar, which was located in the very center of the room and penetrated the building through and through. Light was given by ten windows located on both sides. On the second floor (it was destroyed in the 19th century) there was a refectory, painted with frescoes, the floor was covered with cast-iron plates. Next to the refectory there was a vestibule, and, like on the first floor, eight residential chambers through which one could go along the hanging galleries to the southern and western walls of the Kremlin, to the churches of St. John the Theologian and Gregory the Theologian.
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In 1675, on the site of a wooden church that burned down in 1671, the Church of the Savior on Senya was built. Initially, the church was conceived as a home church of the Metropolitan, in which solemn services were held and guests of high rank were received.
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The Church of the Savior on Senya was the main temple of the Rostov Bishops' House. In the Chronicle of the Rostov Bishops, compiled already in the 18th century, it is reported that the stone church of the Savior was preceded by a wooden church, built by the same Metropolitan Jonah and burned down in a fire in 1671.
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In 1730, the Church of the Savior on Senyah suffered from the "great" Rostov fire that destroyed half of the city. Then its wooden roof burned down and the head, soldered with white iron, “fell off” an iron cross covered with gilded copper. After the fire, on the Church of the Savior, as well as on other charred house churches, a four-pitched plank roof was built, and the head was covered with a plowshare.
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The period of truly capital and for its time high-quality restoration began with the beginning of the activities of the Commission for the Restoration of the Kremlin Buildings and the opening in 1883 in the restored White Chamber of the Museum of Church Antiquities.
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Now we are going to the Cathedral Square to the Assumption Cathedral.
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From the north, at the end of the 17th century, the cathedral part of the city square with the Assumption Church was attached to the metropolitan court. It is surrounded by a low wall.

This is the Holy Gate with the gate church of the Resurrection.
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During the archaeological excavations conducted by N. N. Voronin in 1939 and 1954-1955, it was found that the modern brick five-domed six-pillar Assumption Cathedral was built on the basis of the walls of the previous stone church. It was erected in 1161-1162 almost simultaneously with the Church of the Intercession on the Nerl. In addition to well-hewn stone blocks, stones with ornamental carvings, glazed ceramic floor tiles, remains of frescoes from 1187 and bronze door handles have been preserved from it.
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The cathedral and the belfry successfully harmonize with each other, although the time of their construction is separated by more than one century.

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The facades of the belfry are divided vertically by flat ledges - blades; and horizontally - three belts. On the lower floors there is the Church of the Entrance to Jerusalem and utility rooms.
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The top floor is open area with a four-span arcade. Each of the spans is fenced with an openwork metal lattice and completed at the top with a keeled zakomara, above each of the spans on a round drum there is a chapter crowned with a cross. A steep, narrow intra-wall staircase leads to the upper floor, revealed by tiny windows on the facade. From the spans with bells to the ground, the belfry has solid voids, which makes the building an excellent resonator. The proximity of the belfry to open space Lake Nero enhances the acoustic effect.
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Souvenir shop on the ground floor...
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...with a fairly traditional assortment.
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The belfry was built in two stages. Construction began in 1682. During this period, the main three-span belfry was built. By order of the Metropolitan of Rostov, Iona Sysoevich, craftsman Philip Andreev made two of the largest bells for the belfry - "Polyeleiny" and "Swan".
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The final construction of the belfry was completed in 1689. Then 13 bells were hung in one row and firmly fixed on metal hooks and a thick oak beam, except for four of them hanging on another beam attached to the main one at a right angle. In the second half of the 19th century, 2 more bells were added to them. Since then, 15 bells have been hanging on the belfry of the Rostov Kremlin.
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And this is the Church of the Savior at the Market - outside the Cathedral Square - we will see it in the second part from the observation deck of the Rostov Kremlin.
Site vidania.ru Museum-reserve "Rostov Kremlin"
Russian History website
Site Tourism in Russia
“Church of the Savior on Senyah in Rostov Veliky”, author T.L. Nikitin, publishing house "Northern pilgrim", Moscow, 2002
Wikipedia

A great rarity - the name and surname of the master has been preserved, who, apparently, played a prominent role in the design and construction process. His name was Peter Dosaev. Little is known about him, only that he was a first-class bricklayer from a family of settlers and had an eastern origin. Construction began in 1650 with the erection of administrative premises and a residential area, then the builders moved on to church buildings. Art historians single out fourteen separate monuments that have survived to this day and are part of the ensemble of the Rostov Kremlin: the Assumption Cathedral, the belfry of the Assumption Cathedral, the Holy Gates, the Gate Church of the Resurrection, Judgment Order, the Church of St. John the Evangelist, the Hodegetria Church, the Church of the Savior on Senya (or, it is also called the Savior Not Made by Hands), the Church of Gregory the Theologian, the Red Chamber, the House on the Cellars, the Samuil Corps, the White (Dining) Chamber and the towers of the Kremlin.

In archival documents, historians now and then found references to the frescoes inside the Assumption Cathedral, but the frescoes themselves were absent. Only in 1950, scientists discovered that under the upper layers of the oil paintings of the collection there is another one - the same frescoes mentioned in the archives and eyewitnesses' memoirs. Partially, the frescoes began to "appear" from under the cracked top layer in the domes, drums and girth arches. The restorers managed to “extract” fragments of the original painting in the altar, and behind the iconostases, areas were found that were not even hidden under the later layers of painting. Why the frescoes were eventually ordered to be “painted over” and whose will it was remains a mystery.

The central point of the historical ensemble, of course, is the Assumption Cathedral - it stood here even before Metropolitan Jonah began large-scale construction. This is actually the calling card of the museum-reserve. The place on which the cathedral was erected can be called truly "prayerful", although it could not have done without strange and even tragic events. The Assumption Cathedral is not the first temple building built on this territory. First wooden church was erected in 991, still under Prince Vladimir. But every time something happened to the buildings: either a fire, or suddenly, for no reason at all, the roof would collapse.

It is known for certain that Sergius of Radonezh was baptized in one of the former churches that stood on this site, and that one of the abbots at one time was the father of the famous Russian hero Alyosha Popovich. The current Assumption Cathedral appeared at the beginning of the 16th century. Whether by accident or intentionally, the building turned out to be very similar to the Moscow Assumption Cathedral. True, there are details that are specific to the Rostov Cathedral. Especially beautiful and original is the patterned arcade-columnar belt, unique for the architectural heritage of that time.

The belfry of the Assumption Cathedral became famous throughout the country after the film by Leonid Gaidai "Ivan Vasilyevich Changes His Profession" was released. Filming took place on the territory of the Kremlin, and it was inside the belfry that the famous chase scene was filmed. Descendants in excellent condition got 15 bells, of which the largest are the Polyelein bell weighing 1,000 pounds and the Sysoy bell, which weighs 2,000 pounds (by the way, Metropolitan Jonah named the bell in honor of his father).

The last, final building was the Hodegetria Church, the construction of which, according to reports, was completed in 1693. This was the point. But even when construction work was still going on, the Kremlin earned numerous praises from the highest clergy and nobility, high-ranking guests constantly came here, as if on an excursion.

The closest people to the metropolitan were the butler, the clerk and, of course, the treasurer. Each of these "top-level managers" had their own departments: the state order, the court and the brownie. In each of the divisions, officials of various ranks worked. The staff of the metropolitan was rather big - together with domestic servants, church servants and assistant boyars, they recruited about two hundred people. However, only the highest ranks lived within the metropolitan chambers. The rest (ordinary employees, servants and "black clergy") lived outside the walls of the Kremlin, in numerous settlements, which were also subject to the authority of the metropolitan.

Vladimir Icon of the Mother of God

One of the main shrines of the Assumption Cathedral is kept in the Rostov Museum.

Collection of yam bells and bells

A funny and unique collection of exclusively national Russian attributes, which have long since passed away, is stored in the Museum of Private Collections. This gift was made by the former director of the museum-reserve Vyacheslav Kim - he collected more than 2,000 exhibits, which, after his death, bequeathed to be put on public display.

Altar cross of the 16th century

Entered the Rostov Museum of Church Antiquities in 1886. In 1995, he was kidnapped and two years ago "surfaced" in a private collection in Germany, was bought by a Russian philanthropist and returned to the Rostov Museum.

Enamel collection

The largest in Russia. In total, the exposition presents about two and a half thousand miniatures. The exhibits date from the 18th-20th centuries.

Judging by the annals, the local treasury cannot be called poor. In addition to money, the assets included securities, rare books for that era, stocks of expensive fabrics from which ceremonial clothes were sewn for going out, luxurious dishes, furniture, icons and weapons. However, Metropolitan Jonah did not have time to properly settle down in a new place, as by the "will from above" the metropolis was transferred from Rostov to Yaroslavl. He was forced to relocate. Without a host, everything changed here: the retinue fled, the mansions fell into disrepair, even worship services stopped. There was a moment when the bishops thought about scrapping the Kremlin, because it was too expensive to maintain it, and there was no need to. Patrons helped save the monument - wealthy merchants donated funds for which the Kremlin was restored, and soon after the restoration, the Rostov Museum of Church Antiquities was opened in the White Chamber.

In the 20th century, difficult times came again: the revolution, Soviet power, the struggle against church institutions and religious sentiments in society. Nevertheless, worship services were held here until 1935, and then the country's party leadership decided to stop all religious activity, and transfer the Assumption Cathedral to the warehouse of a coffee and chicory factory. Almost two decades later, a powerful tornado swept through Rostov, which partially destroyed the domes of individual churches, demolished the roofs of many buildings and damaged the belfry. After that, the entire complex, including the Assumption Cathedral, was transferred Rostov Museum-Reserve, but his condition remained deplorable until the 90s of the last century. In 1991, the first divine services and restoration work began, and by now, thanks to the efforts of public organizations and sponsors, as well as thanks to state support, the Rostov Kremlin has been practically restored.

Today, Rostov is one of the main cities of the Golden Ring, and the Rostov Kremlin is under state protection. By the Decree of the President of the Russian Federation dated January 24, 1995, the Rostov Kremlin Museum-Reserve was included in the state register of especially valuable objects of cultural heritage of the peoples of Russia.