Kremlin Rostov: description, history. State Museum-Reserve "Rostov Kremlin. Rostov Regional Museum of Fine Arts. Differences of gate churches

Museums of Rostov the Great
State Museum-Reserve " Rostov Kremlin"

It was founded on October 28 (November 10), 1883 as the Museum of Church Antiquities. It is located on the territory of the architectural ensemble of the former Bishop's House (Rostov Kremlin), which was formed mainly in the second half of the 17th century as a result of the construction activities of Metropolitan of Rostov and Yaroslavl Iona III (Sysoevich). The museum has branches: in the village of Bogoslov - the Church of St. John the Theologian on the river. Ishne (1693), a monument of wooden architecture, and in the village of Borisoglebsky - the architectural ensemble of the Borisoglebsky Monastery (XVI-XVII centuries).

The main expositions of the museum:

Art Gallery
The funds of the State Museum-Reserve "Rostov Kremlin" contain about 92 thousand items, among which the collection of Russian fine art of the 18th-20th centuries occupies a worthy place. Many works were exhibited at exhibitions in Russia and abroad: in Tretyakov Gallery, Russian Museum, Academy of Arts, State Museum fine arts them. A.S. Pushkin, at the Tate Gallery in London, the New York S. Guggenheim Museum, museums in Finland, Austria, Belgium, Germany, Spain, Japan, Korea, USA.

Old Russian art
The exposition of the department of ancient Russian art exhibited icons created in the XIII - early. XX century Most of the icons in the museum's exposition are united by their local origin, as well as their common sound of the images of saints, which distinguishes the Rostov icon from the icons of other Russian cities. Rostov for many centuries was the center of the ancient diocese, which caused a careful attitude to traditions. On the Rostov icons in the images of saints there is no psychological tension. The harmony of soft colors, calm rhythm of lines, transparent painting create soft contemplative images.

Enamel Museum
The State Museum-Reserve "Rostov Kremlin" has one of the largest collections of Rostov enamel in Russia, numbering about 2.5 thousand miniatures of the 18th-20th centuries. The beginning of the collection was laid at the end of the 19th century, but in general the collection was replenished most actively in the late 1920s, when churches and monasteries were being massively closed. In some cases, antiquities were confiscated from the sacristies of still functioning churches. The museum collection contains enamels that once adorned the church utensils of all the monasteries and temples of Rostov. Unfortunately, almost all of them have lost contact with the objects they were intended for, the latter were used as scrap of precious metal. The museum collection of Rostov enamel was replenished not only due to seizures from temples. In 1927, from the clerk F.I. Lavrentiev received about 530 items, mostly in the form of individual plates. The heirs of the largest organizers of the fishery, buyers of the early 20th century, took part in the acquisition of the collection. Furtov, Zavyalov, Kuznetsov, Vinogradov. 75 enamel miniatures came from the collection of one of the founders of the museum, A.A. Titov, who maintained a workshop for the production of enamel, and also contributed to the popularization of the craft, presenting it at various exhibitions. The collection of enamels was replenished in the 1970s - 1990s. through the acquisition of pre-revolutionary enamel from private individuals and contemporary works from the masters themselves.

Yamsky bells and bells
The inflated bell, together with bells, as an indispensable attribute of a triple harness, was an exclusively Russian national phenomenon, even a symbol of Russia for a century and a half. Appearing in the second half of the 18th century, when the Yamskaya chase was streamlined and the roads put in order, the arched bell was placed on each postal or courier troika as a signaling device that distinguished the state cart from the philistine one, and gradually went out of circulation as the network grew. railways and reduction of pit transportation. The peak of popularity of Yamsky bells falls on the first half of the 19th century. In December 1836, at the request of the Post Office, a special law was even issued prohibiting unofficial carts from ringing and causing confusion in the work of the postal service. It was then that bells appeared, the ban on which did not apply, and private owners could hang them on a horse in unlimited quantities.

Rostov the Great is an ancient city on the shores of Lake Nero. He saw many battles, was burned more than once, but survived and again and again restored and flourished. The heart of the city is, of course, the Rostov Kremlin, or rather the former residence of the Metropolitan, where today the museum-reserve is located. It is here that thousands of tourists who go to Rostov seek to get.

Rostov the Great (or Yaroslavl) has long history. The first to come to these lands were not the Slavs, but the Finnish peoples, in the vicinity even the remnants of ancient settlement Sari. But already in 862, the city of Rostov was here. This date is the earliest mention of Rostov, but not even as a settlement, but as a city.

In 911, the first Christian church was already built here, mind you, because Rus' was baptized only in 988-990. But the old faith firmly held the minds of Rostovites, and local priests had to flee, and some died at the hands of the townspeople, such as Bishop Leonty, who was later canonized.
The oldest stone church in the city is the Assumption Cathedral, built in 1162. True, the first version of the temple burned down, and the one that has survived to this day was built in 1411, and Dionysius was among the masters who designed the cathedral. There are many beliefs associated with this temple. Bartholomew was baptized here known to the world like Sergius of Radonezh. John of Kronstadt ruled the service here. And in 1913, the last Russian tsar prayed here.
And remember the modern cartoon "Alyosha Popovich", where people hid in the church from Tugarin the Serpent. It's here in this temple. And Alyosha himself, by the way, was the son of his rector.

It is worth noting that the city did not have good protection for a long time, therefore it suffered more than once from the raids of the Tatar-Mongol yoke, was burned during the period of unrest and received serious damage during the Lithuanian intervention. They fortified Rostov with the help of earthen ramparts and a fortress, but since by that time Rostov was already in the middle of the country, and the need for a fortress had disappeared, therefore, in the 17th century, it was decided to build a stone residence of the metropolitan, which we know as the Rostov Kremlin. The construction began in 1660, when Metropolitan Jonah arrived in Rostov, and for thirty years he built his brainchild.

It was a magnificent building, the amazing panorama of which delights even today. The Rostov Kremlin is good from all angles: from the remains of the city ramparts and from the shores of Lake Nero.

Churches, outbuildings, a belfry, a bailiff, a guest yard, the metropolitan's chambers, the White Chamber, eleven towers, etc. - all this is a single complex, interconnected by passages and covered galleries.

Of particular note is the belfry. It was built at the end of the 17th century and had thirteen bells. Each of them had its own name: "Swan", "Polyelein", "Hunger", which called only during the period of fasting. But the largest was "Sysa", named after the father of the founder of the Rostov Kremlin, Metropolitan Iona Sysoevich.

But very soon the bishop's court was moved to Yaroslavl, and the Kremlin, as the pilgrims began to call the court, which the relics of St. Demetrius attracted to Rostov, was left empty. All other years the Kremlin existed on the sacrifices of pilgrims and believers.

In 1883, a museum was opened on the territory of the Kremlin. Expositions were exhibited in the chambers, and the institution itself was taken under their wing by Tsarevich Alexei and the future Tsar Nikolai Alexandrovich.

Today the Rostov Kremlin is State Museum-Reserve and one of the most visited sights not only of the city, but of the whole region. And how not to visit a place that is already familiar to everyone who has ever watched the legendary film "Ivan Vasilyevich Changes His Profession". Yes, it was precisely through these passages that the thieving prince Miloslavsky ran, it was here that the "Soviet" Ivan Vasilyevich ate, and what can I say, they feasted here on "overseas, eggplant caviar."

If you are traveling on your own, you will need at least half a day to visit the Rostov Kremlin. And if you want to visit all the exhibitions, then one day may not be enough.

What's the cover charge

At the entrance to the Kremlin there are ticket offices where you can buy tickets for exhibitions.

Single full ticket(including the observation deck and the museum cinema) for all exhibitions costs 400 rubles.

You can also buy individual tickets for exhibitions and master classes. A full price list can be found on the museum's website.

Just piercing through the Kremlin costs 50 rubles.

It is proposed to purchase tickets for such an interesting event as the Bell Ringing Concert. This pleasure is not cheap - 1500 rubles per person. You can listen to the bell ringing (abbreviated version) for free, you just need to check at the box office what time the bells ring.

Exhibitions of the Rostov Kremlin

In the former bishops' chambers, there are several permanent exhibitions, but besides this, the museum is constantly changing and adding a number of portable exhibitions that are dedicated to different dates. These are exhibitions dedicated to the Great Victory, this year they are presented very widely, exhibitions of Rostov enamel and much more.
Among the permanent exhibitions, tourists can visit the exposition "Medalery Cabinet". Here are all the originals and copies of the medals, from the very first, which were awarded to the soldiers "For the Poltava battle of 1709" to the last awards of the Sochi Olympiad.

In the White Chamber (the same one where Ivan the Terrible-Bushma received ambassadors and feasted) there is an exposition of church antiquities. Here are exhibits of church utensils, crosses, old books and documents that historians and archaeologists managed to collect. The exhibition tells about the period of the XVI-XVIII centuries, and there are quite valuable items that are relics.

The exposition "Ancient Russian Art", located in eight rooms of the Samuil Corps, is somewhat similar to it in terms of subject matter. By the way, it was from this exposition that the history of the museum began. Here are frescoes, and paintings, and church vestments, and even a gilded censer, which is already four hundred years old. Looking at these luxurious exhibits. decorated precious stones and metals, you understand that people used to spare no money for the church.

The symbol of the Russian troika is the gushing bells, presented in the Yamsky Bells exposition. Here you can find out the history of where this tradition came from, what kind of bells were and how they were distinguished - after all, bell craftsmanship has become one of business cards Rostov, well, like the Tula arms factories. And here you can see the real sled.

water tower

Be sure to climb the steep wooden stairs to the Water Tower. The views from there are such that you can’t say in a fairy tale!

Enamel Museum "Rostov Kremlin" must enter into compulsory program every excursion. Each, firstly, because at one time you are unlikely to be able to appreciate the entire collection, which has more than three thousand exhibits, and secondly, here you can not only look at beautiful knick-knacks, but also try to create something yourself on a master -class.

After viewing the exposition, you can purchase products from Rostov enamel from the official factory (you can read about where the Rostov Enamel Factory is located and what you can buy in the shop at the factory here).

Exposition "Ancient past of the Rostov land" will introduce us to mammoths and prehistoric rhinos that roamed this area during the Paleolithic period, as well as to the first people and life in the Stone Age.
Several exhibition halls in the Red Chamber of the State Choir are occupied by an exposition that tells about the history of Rostov in the period from the 7th to the 15th centuries. It was during this period that the city was born, and even then it was quite large and strategically important. No wonder the princely heirs were sent here Kievan Rus so that they learn to rule, by the way, to say Rostov was a rather "obstinate" city and did not willingly obey.

Here are the weapons of the 10th century, the princely seals of Yaroslav the Wise, ancient figurines and much more.

In the church of Odigidria on the territory of the Kremlin there is an exhibition “Shining gold and azure”, which tells about the Baroque period in the church. Luxurious vestments of priests, rich icons, amazing tombstones, which are unique pieces of art in themselves, are presented here.

You can read in detail about the exposition in the museum of the Hodegetria Church here.

And if you get tired of watching a lot of museum exhibitions and want to relax, you can do this in Gostiny Dvor, located on the first floor of the Red Chamber. Here, in interactive mode you can visit virtual exhibitions and find out detailed information about the section you are interested in.

Dining on the territory of the Rostov Kremlin

On the territory you can also eat, for example, in a cozy garden house. You can find it on the territory of the apple orchard.

Hotel on the territory of the Rostov Kremlin

Few people know, but on the territory of the Rostov Kremlin there is a hotel called "The House in the Cellars". The hotel has only 24 rooms and they are rarely empty. But if you book in advance, you might be lucky. Here is the hotel website.

Official site Museum Rostov Kremlin

The Rostov Kremlin is that object cultural heritage which every tourist should visit. And having visited once, you will want to come here again and again.

Strictly speaking, the Kremlin in Rostov is not a Kremlin at all, that is, not a city fortification, but the residence of the bishops of the Rostov-Yaroslavl diocese, which in old times called the bishop's or metropolitan court. But then, because of the high walls that appeared in the second half of the 17th century, the hierarch’s courtyard began to be called a fortress, that is, the Kremlin. However, the solid walls served in those days not so much for protection, but to clearly show everyone the greatness of the Rostov diocese.

The most beautiful view of the Kremlin opens from Lake Nero. If you want to take beautiful photos, go around the Kremlin from the side of the lake.

Architectural ensemble of the Rostov Kremlin

The "Kremlin" consists of three parts: in the center of the ensemble is metropolitan court, on the territory of which there is a pond, several churches and administrative buildings were built; north of it Cathedral Square, where the Assumption Cathedral and the belfry are located; South - Metropolitan Garden adjacent to the shore of Lake Nero. The whole territory is surrounded by strong walls with 11 towers.

Most famous building Kremlin and at the same time oldest building cities - the majestic five-domed Assumption Cathedral, built in 1508-1512. The remaining buildings appeared on the territory of the bishop's court later - most of them belong to the second half of the 17th century.

Mostly architectural ensemble The Kremlin appeared during the reign of Metropolitan Jonah: the hierarch was equipping his estate and wanted it to be like the heavenly city of Jerusalem. During the time of Jonah, a two-story building also appeared Judgment Order(50-60s of the XVII century), and over the gate Church of the Resurrection, connecting the Cathedral Square with the Bishop's Court located under it with the Holy Gate, and the home Temple of Metropolitan Jonah, And Church of the Holy Savior- built around the 1670s, and the metropolitan mansions, where the residence of the church hierarch was located and his treasury was kept, as well as state mansions("Red Chamber") - also built in the second half of the 17th century, and the gate Church of John the Evangelist 1683.

The last building in the metropolitan courtyard was Hodegetria Church 1692-1693 - it already stands out among earlier churches, because it has already been given the features of a newfangled "Moscow Baroque".

The whole ensemble of the Kremlin has one unusual feature: most of the buildings are connected by passages laid on the walls. By the way, you have probably already seen them, even if you have never been to Rostov - it was through these crossings in the 1970s that the heroes of the film by Leonid Gaidai "Ivan Vasilyevich Changes His Profession" ran.

Museums of the Rostov Kremlin

On the territory of the Rostov Kremlin, several expositions are open: art, local history, historical. You can start your inspection with Chambers of State(they are also called the "Red Chamber"), where on the ground floor is located exhibition hall "Museum living room", in which guests are introduced to the collections of the museum-reserve and talk about the Rostov land. The exposition is interactive: you can choose the one you want virtual tour or watch a slideshow.

It doesn’t matter if you are interested in history and architecture or if you came to this city just to have a good weekend, it’s worth visiting the Rostov Kremlin: you don’t have to go to museums or choose only one or two expositions that interest you, you can just walk around the territory of the former bishop’s court, make beautiful photographs, climb the belfry, walk along the walls in summer and admire the surroundings.

exposition "Ancient past of the Rostov land" tells about the time from the Paleolithic era to the early Iron Age. Museum guests can see the skulls and bones of mammoths, woolly rhinoceros, reindeer and other animals that lived in these places, as well as household items of the first people: ceramics, battle axes.

A continuation of the local history theme awaits you on the second floor of the State Choir (Red Chamber), where the exhibition "Rostov land and Rostov in the 7th - 15th centuries". In four halls about one and a half thousand objects are presented, telling about different periods of the history of Rostov. Among the unique exhibits are the seal of the Kyiv prince Yaroslav the Wise and a genuine Western European sword of the 10th century.

IN Samuil Corps you can see the exposition "Old Russian Art" is a rich collection of icons of the 13th - early 20th centuries, facial embroidery of the 16th - 17th centuries, casting of the 12th - 16th centuries, wood and bone carvings of the 15th-16th centuries.

Exposition in the White Chamber "Museum of Church Antiquities"- this is the experience of the reconstruction of this museum, which existed in Rostov from 1883 to the beginning of the 1920s. Visitors can see handwritten and early printed books. weapons, objects of arts and crafts.

Exhibition in the Gallery "Russian and Western European Baroque" is a representative collection of icon painting, sculpture and arts and crafts of the 17th-18th centuries. in addition to icons, you can see sewing, fabrics, silverware.

In the pantry of the pillarless chamber there is a curious collection of inflatable bells V. You will not only learn about different types such bells, but also learn about the technology of their manufacture.

Groups by reservation have access to pantry chamber, where the archaeological collections of the museum-reserve are stored.

Rostov the Great is one of the ancient cities Russia. The interest of tourists to it does not dry out, because many sights of different eras are concentrated on its small territory. And the main tourist attraction is the Rostov Kremlin, which you can spend the whole day exploring.

History of the Rostov Kremlin

Rostov was called "Great" for a reason and stood on a par with Novgorod. It was the center of Orthodoxy and subsequently - the metropolis. Over time, it became necessary to build a residence for the metropolitan, and so in 1670 the history of the Kremlin began. According to the idea of ​​Metropolitan Iona Sysoevich, the future building was supposed to resemble a Garden of Eden, surrounded by walls. The result really turned out to be impressive: bizarre towers and magnificent domes of churches rose above Rostov. The architectural ensemble took its place on a hill, next to Lake Nero.

However, in the XVIII century, after the transfer of the episcopal chair to Yaroslavl, the local metropolitan court lost its former function: services in churches ceased, the premises of the ensemble were given over to warehouses. In the 19th century, it was decided to restore the dilapidated ensemble with the money of the merchants and townspeople. By 1883, a museum of church antiquities was opened here, and then Nicholas II took the Kremlin under his patronage. In 1953, many monuments were damaged by a strong tornado, but they were restored.

The main monuments of the Kremlin

Rostov Kremlin - what to see.

Numerous monuments are concentrated on the territory of the Rostov Kremlin, but some of them are worth highlighting:

The Assumption Cathedral appeared on this site long before the construction of the Kremlin. After that, he merged with him into one architectural ensemble. The building is made up of white stone and brick, and in style it resembles the cathedral of the same name in the Moscow Kremlin - the architects obviously borrowed ideas. A chic baroque iconostasis, installed back in the 18th century under Archbishop Joachim, has survived to this day.

Belfry of the Rostov Kremlin - one more architectural monument, built next to the Assumption Cathedral. The two structures successfully harmonize with each other, although they are separated by a whole century. But the belfry was also famous throughout Rus' for the melodious ringing of its bells. They were cast at different times: "Polyeleiny" and "Swan" appeared in 1682, "Nabatny" - in 1824. Some of them are decorated with ornaments. And one of the bells is named "Sysoy" in honor of Metropolitan Jonah Sysoevich.

Church of the Icon of the Mother of God Hodegetria.

The Hodegetria Church is one of the most picturesque churches in the Kremlin, designed in the Moscow baroque style. It differs from other similar structures of the ensemble by the presence of a balcony that passes through the second floor. Much later, after the completion of construction, triangular ornaments resembling a relief were applied to the facade of the church. The interior is decorated with stucco cartouches - this is another difference between the church and other buildings in Rostov.

The Church of the Savior Not Made by Hands is the home church of the metropolitans, connected to the Samuil building (living quarters). It is notable for the painting made by the Yaroslavl masters and the priest Timofey. The interior, in contrast to the modest facade, stood out for its richness and splendor.

Museums of the Rostov Kremlin

Some rooms of the Rostov Kremlin serve as museums. One of the most interesting expositions is kept in the White Chamber. It was created in 1993 as an attempt to reconstruct the appearance of the Museum of Church Antiquities. The White Chamber displays collections of wood carvings, iconography, church utensils, paintings, books, weapons and documents. The special pride of the museum is a unique altar cross of the 16th century. It was stolen and for almost 15 years was considered lost forever.

The cost of visiting the museums of the Rostov Kremlin.

The Hodegetria Church houses an amazing exposition in its value. Icons and sculptures of the 17th century, an extensive collection of fabrics, silver, sets of robes of clergy and items used for the celebration of the liturgy are exhibited here.

Red Chamber of the Rostov Kremlin.

There are two collections in the Red Chamber. On the ground floor there is a museum lounge where you can take a break and get acquainted with the multimedia exhibition. And on the second floor, unique items from the funds are displayed. Among them are the seal of Yaroslav the Wise, a sword from Western Europe (X century), tombs for relics, fragments of the Assumption Cathedral, ancient crosses.

Kremlin pond.

8 halls of the Samuil complex are reserved for a collection of objects of ancient Russian art. Here you can see icons dating back to the 12th-20th centuries, bone and wood carvings, covers from the tombs of the most famous Rostov miracle workers and church utensils from the Assumption Cathedral, including a water-blessing cup and a gilded censer.

Judgment order.

It is also worth visiting the museum of enamel in the premises of the Judgment Order. This is the largest collection of enamels painted in the famous Rostov technique. Among the exhibits are caskets, icons, paintings, books, crosses. The museum demonstrates the development of the craft and its evolution.

Photos of the Rostov Kremlin

Gate Church of the Resurrection of the Lord and the Holy Gates.

Resurrection Church.

Inner courtyard of the Rostov Kremlin.

Bells.

Kremlin wall.

Metropolitan garden.

Porch of the Church of the Savior Not Made by Hands.

The Rostov Kremlin complex is open seven days a week, but the museums and shop inside are closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.

In the history of Rus' there were only two Great cities - Velikiy Novgorod and Rostov the Great. Today we will find ourselves in Rostov the Great - an ancient Russian city that has left a glorious mark on our history. It is the Rostov Kremlin that is one of the most beautiful in the world, definitely evoking from the depths of the unconscious the image of a fabulous epic Russian city.

This historical place and, captivating not only with its ancient Russian flavor, but also with something special that made the heart beat faster from the very realization of where you are and what you see. Since childhood, we all know the image of the Rostov Kremlin according to the already domestic film classics “Ivan Vasilyevich Changes His Profession” and not only. Its majestic walls, towers, temples evoke an archetypal image of light, mighty Rus' in the Russian person and fill it with undivided love for their Fatherland. Lake Nero, on the banks of which the Rostov Kremlin stands, is worthy of special mention, since it evoked a lot of different exciting emotions in my soul, including during the processing of these photographs.

On the fourth day of my journey along the Golden Ring, the weather began to deteriorate, in the morning a fine, nasty rain began to drizzle, so that the whitish skies are in fact the very ones that I saw at that time. Since there is always a positive component in every event, such a gloomy context only contributed to my solemn and strict perception of this amazing architectural structure in Rostov the Great, which, perhaps, has no equal at all.

One note. Since at least two posts of different emotional components have accumulated visual material, I faced a dilemma - to talk about the Rostov Kremlin, paying selective attention to it architectural masterpieces, giving clear concise information about them, posting target photos or try to convey to you how my visit to the Rostov Kremlin went in great detail and post the photos in chronological order. In the end, I decided to use the second option, because for the reader, perhaps the integrity of the story, its logical outline and the impressions received in this continuous process are important.

Even in the most distant times, here - at the confluence of the Sara River into Lake Nero, a Finno-Ugric settlement was founded, now called "Sarsky". Four high shafts then divided this settlement into three parts. Later, in X-XI centuries a mixed population lived in this place with a significant proportion of Slavs (Slovenes and Krivichi). For more than 20 years, from 988, Yaroslav the Wise reigned in it. At the end of his short life, the city was also ruled by his younger brother Prince Boris, who became one of the first Russian saints. Sergius of Radonezh was baptized here, and one of the abbots was the father of the legendary Russian hero Alyosha Popovich. However, first things first.

Rostov remained the capital of the northeastern possessions of the Russian princes until 1125, when Prince Yuri Dolgoruky moved the center of his possessions to Suzdal. In 1207, Rostov the Great became the main city of a small specific principality. It had its own icon-painting school. Local monasteries - Petrovsky, St. John the Theologian - were the centers of book learning. Especially famous was the St. Grigorievo-Theological Monastery called “The Shutter”, where famous monks studied, including Stefan of Perm and Epiphanius the Wise. Despite the annexation of the Rostov Principality to the Moscow Principality in the 15th century, the significance of the city was preserved.

Rostov remained the center of the archdiocese, and then the metropolis, from the 11th century until the end of the 18th century. Therefore, from the earliest times city was built up with structures that would correspond to his position spiritual center vast Christian region. So, back in the 11th century, the first monastery in the Rostov land, Abrahamiev, was founded here, which has survived to this day. Large-scale construction in Rostov was also carried out in the middle of the 12th century under Vladimir Prince Andrei Bogolyubsky and at the beginning of the 13th century under Konstantin, the son of Grand Duke Vsevolod the Big Nest.

The Tatar-Mongol invasion for almost 200 years suspended, as well as throughout the territory of Rus', monumental construction in Rostov. But, starting from the 15th century, it resumes. In the middle of the 16th century - during the heyday of Russia's international trade across the White Sea, in which Rostov also participated - a large stone construction was being carried out here. The art of Rostov architects was known far beyond the Rostov land. They were invited to build in Moscow, the Kirillo-Belozersky Monastery and other places. But the most grandiose structures erected in the second half of the 17th century. This is the Bishop's House, which has been under construction since the 1660s for more than 30 years. In the 19th century, it began to be called one short sonorous word "Kremlin".

The construction of the Kremlin began after the return in 1664 of the Metropolitan of Rostov, Iona III Sysoevich, from Moscow, where he served as Locum Tenens of the Patriarchal Throne for two years. Jonah, following Patriarch Nikon, considered such buildings a means of asserting the power of the Church and metropolitan authority. Therefore, their rapid construction began in Rostov. Jonah's idea involved the creation of paradise on this site in full accordance with the biblical description: a garden of Eden surrounded by walls and towers with a pond mirror in the center.
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According to the head of the architectural department of the Rostov Kremlin A.G. Melnik, “according to the plan of Metropolitan Jonah, the ensemble was supposed to symbolize the heavenly city - the mountain Jerusalem with unprecedented clarity for that time.” And according to the Apocalypse, the heavenly Jerusalem "has a large and high wall, has twelve gates." The residence of the metropolitans is an almost rectangular fortress with walls 2 meters thick, up to 12 meters high and 12 towers.

The Kremlin was not designed for defense. Its machicules (hinged loopholes), loopholes and crevices, platbands, decorative belts and plaits perform a decorative function. And many repeating elements of traditional church architecture - five domes, columnar belts (a decorative motif of small arches), gabled pediments - create the impression of antiquity and unity of the ensemble, reflecting the greatness of the Russian Church.

In the photo to the right of the Hodegetria Church - the Assumption Cathedral behind a high stone wall and the Church of the Resurrection, and under it - the transition to Cathedral Square. The church is very beautiful, but at the time when I was there it was almost completely covered with scaffolding.
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In the center of the Kremlin - open area with a square pond in the middle, next to which flaunted in the old days Apple orchard. Along the perimeter of the picturesque asymmetric composition are civil and church buildings.
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The building of the Judgment Order was built first in the 1650s-1660s. It was the center of general administration of the diocese, and also carried the role of judicial functions.
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Already around 1670, a characteristic building was erected next to it in the “style of Iona Sysoevich” - the northern Holy Gate with the five-domed Church of the Resurrection, surrounded by a gallery. Frescoes with graceful, slender figures and an abundance of architectural and landscape backgrounds were painted around 1675 under the direction of Dmitry Plekhanov and Gury Nikitin. They depict in detail gospel events, including the suffering of Christ. The gallery of the temple is painted with scenes from the Old Testament and the Apocalypse.

Church of the Resurrection - on the right."Judgment order" - is visible a little more to the right of the Church of the Resurrection.
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On the opposite, southern side of the courtyard is the building of the metropolitan choir. Its first floor was built in the 16th century, and the second - in the early 1670s. After 100 years, in the 1770s, under Archbishop Samuil Mislavsky, a third floor was added, the building received a new classic look and was renamed the Samuil Corps. Nearby are the State mansions, which were intended to meet the sovereign. They were built in the 1670s, partially dismantled in 1840 and reconstructed in 1968-1969.
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Behind the Samuil building, the complex building of the White Canteen, erected in 1672, is "hidden". Its one-pillar interior goes back to the Moscow Palace of Facets. In 1675, a one-domed house church of the Savior on Senya was added to it. We'll take a look at it too.

To the left of the Samuil building is a two-story red building, the so-called "House in the Cellars".
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"The House on the Cellars" got its name due to the fact that it stood just on them. A two-story building adjoining the Hierarch's Chambers and the Water Tower from the north. The building is very simple and devoid of any decorating elements, only a few windows in the basement have platbands, the other two floors are completely devoid of them. Arched lintels are replaced by flat three-center ones. The second floor is made of wood, so it was often exposed to fires, after the fire of 1758, the log house stood for more than 200 years and was finally replaced in 1973-1974.
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Outbuildings of the 16th-17th centuries are adjacent to the southern and eastern walls of the Kremlin: a cookery and an acolyte, a brewery, a dryer on the glacier and storage chambers, as well as the Hierarchal Chambers, in which, according to legend, at the beginning of the 17th century, Metropolitan Filaret of Rostov, the father of Tsar Mikhail, lived Fedorovich. Almost all buildings of the Kremlin were united by transitional and "hanging" galleries.
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Hierarchical chambers in the background.
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Church of the Savior on Senya from the side of the Hierarch's chambers.
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In 1683 were built west gate with two towers and a slender five-domed gate church of John the Theologian on a high basement. The four lower tiers of frescoes are dedicated to the lives of John the Theologian and Abraham of Rostov. Of particular interest is the painted stone iconostasis, which is rare in other cities. In addition to the Church of St. John the Evangelist, such iconostases have been preserved in the Churches of the Resurrection and the Savior on Senya.

To the left of the photo is the Church of St. John the Evangelist
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It is believed that the construction of this church was the final link in the creation unique look ensemble of the sovereign residence, in the incarnation grand design the customer and creator of this ensemble is the Rostov Metropolitan Jonah. Among the temples of the Bishop's House, the Church of St. John the Theologian stands out for the exquisite harmony of its proportions and the elegance of the design of the facades. Even Y. Shamurin considered it the best architecturally of all the Kremlin churches.
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After the transfer of the bishop's chair to Yaroslavl in 1788, the Church of John the Theologian, like other house churches, was left without worship. The premises under it began to be used for wine and salt warehouses. At the same time, the outer openings of the gates were laid, the structures of the vaults were damaged, and the iron ties were sawn out. The walls of the church began to sag, the building as a whole was tilted, and by the beginning of the 19th century it was in disrepair.
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In 1698, the successor of Iona Sysoevich, Metropolitan Ioasaf Lazarevich, completed the construction of the last church in the ensemble of the Rostov Kremlin - the Church of Hodegetria. He tried to continue the building policy of his predecessor, but better times the Rostov metropolitan house had already passed: the reforms of Peter I undermined its economic power.
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The temple closely adjoins the wall of the bishop's house. The first floor was used for domestic purposes, since there were many rooms. In architectural style, the Hodegetria church is more suited to the Baroque style of the second half of the 17th century.
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Already under the successor of Metropolitan Jonah - Joasaph in 1692-1693, a separate refectory chamber was built with a pillarless church in honor of the Smolensk Icon of the Mother of God. With its slightly later design - coloring in "chess", 20 stucco cartouches and bas-relief angels and cherubs in the spirit of the Naryshkin baroque - this building stands out from the general ensemble of the Kremlin.

The Red Chamber got its name due to its beauty, and the whole palace got the same name from it.

The Red Chamber is on the left.
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The Red Chamber has two floors in its structure. On the first floor, with an area of ​​250 sq.m. there was "Khlebnaya", as well as eight residential chambers.
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The vaults of the "bread" rested on a pillar, which was located in the very center of the room and penetrated the building through and through. Light was given by ten windows located on both sides. On the second floor (it was destroyed in the 19th century) there was a refectory, painted with frescoes, the floor was covered with cast-iron plates. Next to the refectory there was a vestibule, and, like on the first floor, eight residential chambers through which one could go along the hanging galleries to the southern and western walls of the Kremlin, to the churches of St. John the Theologian and Gregory the Theologian.
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In 1675, on the spot wooden church, which burned down in 1671, the Church of the Savior on Senya was built. Initially, the church was conceived as a home church of the Metropolitan, in which solemn services were held and guests of high rank were received.
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The Church of the Savior on Senya was the main temple of the Rostov Bishops' House. In the Chronicle of the Rostov Bishops, compiled already in the 18th century, it is reported that the stone church of the Savior was preceded by a wooden church, built by the same Metropolitan Jonah and burned down in a fire in 1671.
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In 1730, the Church of the Savior on Senyah suffered from the "great" Rostov fire that destroyed half of the city. Then its wooden roof burned down and the head, soldered with white iron, “fell off” an iron cross covered with gilded copper. After the fire, on the Church of the Savior, as well as on other charred house churches, a four-pitched plank roof was built, and the head was covered with a plowshare.
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The period of truly capital and for its time high-quality restoration began with the beginning of the activities of the Commission for the Restoration of the Kremlin Buildings and the opening in 1883 in the restored White Chamber of the Museum of Church Antiquities.
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Now we are going to the Cathedral Square to the Assumption Cathedral.
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From the north, at the end of the 17th century, the cathedral part of the city square with the Assumption Church was attached to the metropolitan court. It is surrounded by a low wall.

This is the Holy Gate with the gate church of the Resurrection.
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During the archaeological excavations conducted by N. N. Voronin in 1939 and 1954-1955, it was found that the modern brick five-domed six-pillar Assumption Cathedral was built on the basis of the walls of the previous stone church. It was erected in 1161-1162 almost simultaneously with the Church of the Intercession on the Nerl. In addition to well-hewn stone blocks, stones with ornamental carvings, glazed ceramic floor tiles, remains of frescoes from 1187 and bronze door handles have been preserved from it.
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The cathedral and the belfry successfully harmonize with each other, although the time of their construction is separated by more than one century.

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The facades of the belfry are divided vertically by flat ledges - blades; and horizontally - three belts. On the lower floors there is the Church of the Entrance to Jerusalem and utility rooms.
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The top floor is open area with a four-span arcade. Each of the spans is fenced with an openwork metal lattice and completed at the top with a keeled zakomara, above each of the spans on a round drum there is a chapter crowned with a cross. A steep, narrow intra-wall staircase leads to the upper floor, revealed by tiny windows on the facade. From the spans with bells to the ground, the belfry has solid voids, which makes the building an excellent resonator. The proximity of the belfry to the open space of Lake Nero enhances the acoustic effect.
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Souvenir shop on the ground floor...
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...with a fairly traditional assortment.
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The belfry was built in two stages. Construction began in 1682. During this period, the main three-span belfry was built. By order of the Metropolitan of Rostov, Iona Sysoevich, craftsman Philip Andreev made two of the largest bells for the belfry - "Polyeleiny" and "Swan".
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The final construction of the belfry was completed in 1689. Then 13 bells were hung in one row and firmly fixed on metal hooks and a thick oak beam, except for four of them hanging on another beam attached to the main one at a right angle. In the second half of the 19th century, 2 more bells were added to them. Since then, 15 bells have been hanging on the belfry of the Rostov Kremlin.
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And this is the Church of the Savior at the Market - outside the Cathedral Square - we will see it in the second part from the observation deck of the Rostov Kremlin.
Site vidania.ru Museum-reserve "Rostov Kremlin"
Russian History website
Site Tourism in Russia
“Church of the Savior on Senyah in Rostov Veliky”, author T.L. Nikitin, publishing house "Northern pilgrim", Moscow, 2002
Wikipedia