Interesting facts: Majestic mountains of Kyrgyzstan. Communism Peak where is located

Communism Peak, which today bears the name of Ismoil Somoni, has changed its name many times, being exposed to historical trends. Today it is the highest point in Tajikistan, located in the northwestern part of the Pamirs. Previously, he was considered the most high peak USSR, reaching a height of 7495 m.

This is not only the highest, but also the most beautiful peak in the entire post-Soviet space. It was discovered in 1928 during a joint scientific expedition of Soviet and German scientists.

After the collapse of the USSR, Tajikistan was recognized as an independent country, and it was decided to rename this peak in honor of the founder of the Tajik state, Ismoil Somoni.

Pamir mountains

Pamir is a set of unique blue and white mountains. Only flying over them, you can see in detail the rows of ridges, many snow-white peaks of which are decorated with hanging glaciers, and bright green valleys.

If you look at the Pamir mountains from the bottom up, you get the feeling that they touch the sky. From a height, it immediately becomes clear that the Pamirs are a kind of knot, in all directions from which the most impressive mountain systems in the world diverge. In addition, here you can find a large number of archaeological sites, including even well-preserved sites of primitive people.

Peak Communism. Where is the top?

The discovery of the location of the peak began with a detailed study of the Pamir Mountains by a group of Russian-German researchers. The first information about the peak of Communism was received in 1876, when a military expedition was introduced into the Pamir mountains.

Since that time, Russian scientists began an intensive study of these mountains for useful minerals. Special attention expeditions attracted peaks occupying central region when crossing the ridges of Peter the Great, Karategin, Darvaz. Later, the area adjacent to this peak was repeatedly explored by other expeditions, which mapped most of the ridges and peaks located in the Pamirs. However, none of them was able to penetrate into the central region, directly adjacent to the ridge of the Academy of Sciences. The passage was difficult due to the fact that there were a large number of glaciers on the mountain slopes, occupying almost the entire area. Thus, the region of Communism Peak, located on the western side of the Peter the Great Ridge, remained unexplored for a long time, despite all the interest of scientists.

Top Features

Communism Peak is a mountain that differs from the rest of the Pamir mountains by its impressive appearance and is a rock-ice pyramid with four pronounced sides, outwardly resembling a square. The southwestern wall of the peak is located above the Belyaev Glacier and breaks off at a height of several kilometers, due to which it is not only very steep, but also dangerous. However, this is not all the difficulties that one has to face when climbing.

At an altitude of 600-800 m there is a rocky bastion, the steepness of which reaches approximately 80°. It is in this part of the peak that the most difficult of all climbing routes laid to date. Distinctive feature these peak walls is their uniqueness specifications, combining large elevation differences (up to 2500 m). The absolute height of the peak is 7495 m.

Pamir plateau

The Pamir Mountains are almost entirely on the territory of Tajikistan, occupying almost the entire area of ​​the country. It is noteworthy that only 1/10 of it falls on the valleys. The highest of the Pamir mountains is Communism Peak. In the western and northwestern parts of the mountains from the top of the peak, there is the largest high-mountain plateau, the length of which reaches 12 km.

southwestern part the top is cut off by steep walls, and all its remaining sides are occupied by large glaciers.

Climbing the peak

Since the peak of Communism is a mountain resembling a square in its shape, each side of which presented certain difficulties for climbing, they mastered it in different time and from different angles.

The first development took place on the eastern side of the peak. It was carried out by Yevgeny Abalakov in 1933 as part of the Tajik-Pamir expedition sent by the Academy of Sciences of the USSR to climb Stalin Peak (the first name of the mountain). An automatic weather station was installed at the top. Due to this, the opening of Stalin Peak was considered completed, and it was recognized as the highest peak of the USSR. However, the first ascent was extremely difficult. During it, two members of the expedition died, and only Evgeny Mikhailovich Abalakov reached the top.

It was only in 1968 that Eduard Myslovsky managed to climb Communism Peak from the western wall. In the same year, a woman climbed the peak for the first time - master of sports Lyudmila Agranovskaya.

Nameless peak

In the study of a special survey, which was carried out during the expedition to the Pamir Mountains, it was found that one of the highest peaks of the peak reaches a height of 7495 m. map by the German expedition. However, they had some questions regarding the mismatch of heights. Communism Peak, which was 7495 m high, was much higher than Garmo Peak, which was 6650 m high.

This issue was resolved only in the course of complex expeditions carried out throughout 1931, when various detachments of climbers and topographers finally managed to penetrate the area of ​​the Garmo node from different sides of the peak. Comparing the results of the research, scientists came to the conclusion that these are different peaks, and the peak is located more than 20 km north of Garmo Peak. So the nameless peak was finally discovered and mapped. Communism Peak became the highest point in the USSR.

Since the ascent to the peak coincided with the celebration of the 55th anniversary of the birth of Stalin, the peak received its first name in honor of the leader of the peoples.

Renaming a peak

Kaufman Peak was considered the highest peak in the USSR during the reign of Stalin. But since the expedition was carried out thanks to the support of the tsarist general, it was decided to rename Kaufman Peak with the advent of Soviet power to Lenin Peak.

In 1932, the Tajik-Pamir expedition discovered another peak, measuring the height of which, scientists found that it was 400 m higher than Lenin Peak.

After Yevgeny Abalakov climbed the summit and returned to the camp, he sent a telegram about his achievement to Moscow, saying that the peak was named after the leader of the peoples - Stalin. It was this name that was safely applied to everything geographic Maps and decorated them until 1962, when it was decided to rename Stalin Peak as Communism Peak. However, it should be noted that this name also did not take root. And the peak was later renamed again.

After the collapse of the USSR, Tajikistan turned into independent state and in this regard, he again renamed the peak of Communism into the peak of Ismail Somoni - the founder of the Tajik nation and a rather large Samanid state. It is this name that the peak continues to bear to this day.

mountains and mountainous areas USSR

In the European part of the USSR, there are the Khibiny, Carpathians, mountains of the Crimea and the Urals. In the Asian part of the country, there are much more mountainous areas of interest to climbers. From the south, the Caucasus Mountains adjoin the European part of the country, in Central Asia there are the Pamirs and the Tien Shan. Altai is located in the southeast of the West Siberian Plain ( Altai mountains). The Sayan Mountains and the mountain ranges of Transbaikalia stretch in the border regions. IN Eastern Siberia and on Far East mountainous areas occupy a large space. Mountains Soviet Union different in origin and age, geological structure, the composition of their constituents rocks. The youngest mountains (Alpine and Pacific folding) - Ukrainian Carpathians, Crimean mountains. The Greater and Lesser Caucasus, the Pamirs, the ranges of Kamchatka and Sakhalin. The mountains of middle age (Mesozoic folding) are the Chersky, Stanovoy, Verkhoyansky, Sikhote-Alin ridges. The old mountains (Late Paleozoic folding) include Ural mountains, Tien Shan, part of the ranges of Transbaikalia. Below is short description mountainous regions of the USSR, which are of interest to climbers.

Khibiny located on the Kola Peninsula. These are ancient, destroyed mountains, the peaks are smoothed, the slopes are steep. In wide valleys - lakes. The highest point is Chasnachorr (1191 m).

Carpathians. On the territory of the USSR there is a part of the mountain arc of the Carpathians - the Ukrainian Carpathians. These are medium-altitude mountains separated by narrow picturesque valleys. The ridges stretch in parallel, have gentle slopes. The highest point of the Ukrainian Carpathians is Hoverla (2061 m).

Crimean mountains stretched for almost 150 km along South Shore Crimea, have the character of a low plateau, breaking off to the sea with almost sheer walls. Main ridge The Crimean mountains are composed of limestone. They are broken by cracks, through which water penetrates deep into. Voids, caves, funnels, failures appear. The highest point is Roman-Kosh (1545 m).

Caucasus- predominantly Mountain country. It stretches between Black and Seas of Azov in the west and the Caspian Sea in the east. northern border Caucasus consider the Kuma-Manych depression; for the south - accepted state border USSR with Turkey and Iran, going from the Black Sea to the Caspian. The Caucasus is divided into two parts - North Caucasus and Transcaucasia, the border between which is drawn along the watershed ridge Greater Caucasus and along the river Psou. The Greater Caucasus is located in the central part of the Caucasus ( Caucasian Range) with many peaks exceeding 5000 m and covered with eternal snows and glaciers. The lower parts of the slopes of the Greater Caucasus are mostly covered with dense broad-leaved forests, higher - fir-spruce (in the west) and pine (in the east), even higher - subalpine and alpine meadows. In the south, the Suram Range connects the Greater Caucasus with the Lesser Caucasus ranges, which are significantly inferior in height to the Greater Caucasus and do not have glaciers. The Greater Caucasus is a complexly built mountain system, consisting of a number of mountain ranges and spurs. Its length is about 1500 km, width up to 180-160 km. The main part of the mountain system of the Greater Caucasus is made up of the Main, or Dividing Range, and the Side Range accompanying it from the north, cut by the upper reaches of the rivers into separate links. In the eastern half of the Greater Caucasus, east of the river. Ardon) the massifs of the Lateral Range are higher than the Dividing Range. Along the strike, the Greater Caucasus is divided into three parts: Western Caucasus, Central Caucasus and East. The boundaries between them are the cross sections passing through Elbrus and Kazbek - ancient extinct volcanoes. Between Elbrus (5642 m), which is the highest point of the Caucasus and Kazbek (5033 m), is the highest, glacier-covered Central Caucasus. Many peaks exceed 5000 m - Dykhtau (5204 m), Shkhara (5058 m) and others. More than 200 peaks are higher than 4000 m, 15 of them exceed the highest point Western Europe- Mount Mont Blanc (4810 m) and 30 - height 4500 m - Ushba (4696 m), Gestola (4860 m), Katyntau (4970 m) and others. Peaks and ridges are sharp, sharp, composed mostly of granites and crystalline schists. Mountain-glacial forms are characteristic: glacial cirques, trough-shaped valleys, etc. The Western Caucasus is lower than the Central. Highest point- Dombay-Ulgen (4046 m) at the headwaters of the Teberda River. The landforms are also sharp, rocky. The Eastern Caucasus (eastern Kazbek) is higher than the Western one, but inferior in height Central Caucasus. Many peaks exceed 4000 m. The highest points are Tebulosmta (4493 m) on the Side Ridge and Bazardyuzyu (4466 m) on Vodorazdelny. The ridges of the Greater Caucasus in their middle part are covered with eternal snows. The height of the snow line is from 2850 m in the west to 3800 m in the east. total area glaciation reaches 2000 km2, of which 144 km2 is occupied by the glaciation of the Elbrus massif. The total number of glaciers is about 1400, some glaciers exceed the length of 12 km - Dykhsu, Bezengi, Karaugom, Lekzyr, Tsanner. The mountains of the Lesser Caucasus (Transcaucasia) consist of the southern marginal ranges, which are folded chains in the north and northeast, and the inner region, which is part of the Armenian Highlands, which continues into Turkey and Iran. The peaks of the Lesser Caucasus are not high, the exception is the city of Aragats (4090m). The Caucasus Mountains are a great place for the development of mountaineering. There are conditions for climbing up to the highest category of difficulty.

Ural (Ural Mountains)- a low mountainous country stretching along the border of Europe and Asia for a distance of more than 2000 km. The width of the Urals varies from 60 to 150 km. By the nature of the relief and other natural features The Urals are divided into Northern, Middle and Southern. In the Northern Urals, two of its sections are distinguished under the name of the Subpolar and Polar Urals. The Polar Urals stretches from Konstantinov Kamen to the upper reaches of the river. Khulgi. Its highest point is Pai-Er (1499 m). Subpolar Urals located between the upper reaches of the river. Khulgi and the latitudinal segment of the river. Shchugor. It consists of two parallel ranges: Research with the highest peak of the Urals - Mount Narodnaya (1895 m) and Narodno-Itinsky ( average height 1300-1400m). The Northern Urals stretches in the meridional direction from the river. Shchugor to Oslyanka (1122 m), Middle Ural- from the city of Oslyanka to the city of Yurma (1002m). The Southern Urals is located between the latitudinal sections of the river. Ufa and r. Ural. Highest point Southern Urals- Yamantau city (1640 m). Almost in all regions of the Urals there are rocks of various profiles.

Pamir- a mountainous country in the southeast of Central Asia. It is limited in the north by the Zaalai Range; in the east - the Kashgar Range; in the south - at the foot of the Hindu Kush; in the west - the river valley. Panj (upper reaches of the Amu Darya). In the northwest, it includes the upper parts of the Mukeu and Obikhingou river basins. Most of Pamir belongs to the USSR (Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous region and part of the Garm region of the Tajik SSR). The eastern and southern outskirts of the Pamirs are located on the territory of China and Afghanistan. Most high ridges Pamir: in the east - the Kashgar ridge with the highest point of the entire Pamir - the peak of Kongur (7719 m), in the west - the ridge of the Academy spider with the highest point of the Soviet Pamir - the peak of Communism (7495 m); in the north - the Zaalai Range with Lenin Peak (7134 m); in the south, the Hindu Kush adjoins the Pamirs with altitudes of more than 7000 m. The relief of the Eastern Pamirs, despite the huge absolute altitude(over 6000 m), is characterized by relatively low relative heights (1800-2200 m), rounded outlines of mountain ranges and massifs, separated by wide flat-bottomed valleys located at an altitude of 3700-4200 m, and endless basins. Conventionally, the border between the Eastern and Western Pamirs is drawn along the line connecting the meridional Zulumart ridge with the Usoy dam on the river. Murghab. In the northern part of the Eastern Pamirs there is a vast basin of the lake. Karakul, bordered from the south by the Muzkol ridge (the highest point is the peak of Soviet officers, 6233 m). To the east of the Muzkol ridge lies a basin occupied by the Rangkul and Shorkul lakes. The southwestern part of the Eastern Pamirs is crossed by parallel latitudinal ridges of the North and South Alichur and eastern part Vakhansky, reaching 6504 m at the peak of Snezhnaya Glyba. The relief of the Western Pamirs is characterized by parallel ridges, elongated from the northeast to the southwest. To the south of the Zaalaysky ridge are located: the Peter the Great ridge with Moscow peak (6785 m), Darvazsky with Arnavad peak (6088 m), Vanchsky, Yazgulemsky with Revolution peak (6987 m), Rushansky, Shungansky and Shakhdarinsky with Karl Marx peak (6726 m). The ridges of Peter the Great, Darvazsky, Vanchsky and Yazgulemsky are adjacent in the east to the meridional ridge of the Academy of Sciences. The sharp jagged ridges of the ridges of the Western Pamir rise above the bottoms of the valleys by 2000-3000 m or more (the peak of the Revolution rises 4200 m above the Bartang valley). Deep valleys, located at an altitude of 2000-3000 m, look like narrow gorges with steep rocky slopes. There are ancient glacial landforms - "ram's foreheads", trough valleys. Extensive rubbly screes at the bases of slopes and alluvial fans are characteristic. The total area of ​​Pamir glaciation within the borders of the USSR is 8041 km2. The number of glaciers is 1085. Mainly two types of glaciers are developed - cirque and valley glaciers. The height of the snow line varies from 3800 m in the northwest to 5200 m in the area of ​​the lake. Karakul and in the Muzkolsky ridge. largest center glaciation is the ridge of the Academy of Sciences with the adjoining ridges of Peter the Great, Darvaz, Vanch and Yazgulem. 40% of the glaciers of the Soviet Pamirs are concentrated here. The Fedchenko glacier (length 77 km), glaciers Grum-Grzhimailo (36 km), Garmo (27 km), Sagran (24 km) and others originate in the Peter the Great Ridge. The glaciation of the Zaalai Range also reaches large sizes.

Pamir-Alai- unites mountain systems located in the southeast of Central Asia, south of the Ferghana Valley. Includes Alai, Turkestan, Zeravshan, Gissar ranges and their western spurs, Pamir and southwestern spurs of the Peter the Great ridge. Between the Zeravshan and Gissar ranges there is a mountain junction - the Fann Mountains, which carry significant glaciation. The highest peaks of this node are Chimtarga (5494 m), Bolshaya Ganza (5415 m), Chapdara (5197 m), Bodkhana (5304 m). There are many long glaciers in the Pamir-Alai. Zeravshansky glacier - 25 km, Preobrazhensky glacier - 16 km, etc.

Tien Shan. Tien Shan, or Heavenly Mountains, is a powerful mountain system in Asia, located between 40-45 ° N. sh. and 67-95 ° in. d. West Side located within the USSR, the eastern - in China. The highest points are Pobeda Peak (7439 m), which rises on the border of the USSR and China, Khan-Tengri Peak (6995 m) is located on the territory of the USSR. Within the USSR, the Tien Shan mountains stretch for 1200 km. Western Tien Shan. In the region of Khan-Tengri - Pobeda Peak, the main ranges of the Tien Shan diverge. To the west, the ridges diverge fan-shaped. A more northern branch is isolated: the Kungei-Alatau ridge, bordering the Issyk-Kul basin from the north, and the Zailiysky Alatau ridge lying to the north, as well as the Chu-Ili mountains. All these ranges belong to the Northern Tien Shan. The northernmost ridge of the Zailiysky Alatau with the peak of Talgar (4973 m) is undergoing significant glaciation. The height of the mountains here exceeds 4000 m. The most famous peaks are Metallurg Peak (4800 m), Aktau (4270 m), Iintau (4820 m), Ordzhonikidze Peak (4440 m), Frunze Peak (4450 m), Pogrebetsky Peak (4219 m) and others. To the south-west of Khan-Tengri stretches the Kokshaal-Tau ridge, and to the west Terskey-Alatau, which limits the lake basin from the south. Issyk-Kul. The area enclosed between the ranges of Kokshaal-Tau, Ferghana, the eastern segment of the Kyrgyz Range, Terskey-Alatau, is referred to as the Central Tien Shan. highest heights observed in the Central Tien Shan. In the Tengri-Tag ridge, in addition to Khan-Tengri peak, there are Chapaev peak (6371 m), Shater peak (6636 m), Gorky peak (6050 m). In the Kokshaal-Tau ridge there is the second seven-thousander of the USSR - Pobeda Peak (7439 m), to the west of Pobeda Peak rise 6920 m and 6740 m. Despite the fact that the snow line is highest in the Central Tien Shan (up to 4200 m), due to the high altitude of the mountains, the largest glaciation (about 2500 km2) is observed in the Khan Tengri region, where the South Inylchek glacier reaches about 60 km in length, Kaindy glacier - 28 km, Semenov glacier - 18 km. There are many valley, cirque and hanging glaciers.

Altai- a mountainous country in Western Siberia. In the northeast, Altai is in contact with the Kuznetsk Ala-Tau and with Western Sayan, the western foothills connect it with the uplands of the Kazakh hilly hills, to the southeast it goes beyond the USSR, where it is called Mongolian Altai. Within the USSR, from the border mountain node Tabyn-Bogdo-Ula (Tabun-Bogdo - 4653 m), the system of Southern Altai ridges stretches to the west in the latitudinal direction, and to the east - the Saylyugem ridge - the system of Eastern Altai. Inside the arc formed by these main ridges, a complex fan of ridges of the Central Altai is scattered. The Southern Altai, which separates the Black Irtysh and Lake Zaisan from the Bukhtarma basin, reaches 3900 m in the eastern part. The ranges that make up it are called Tarbagatai, Sarym-Sakty and Narymsky. Eastern Altai with a height of 3000-4000 m is a group of ridges - Saylyugem, Chikhachev and Shapshal ridges, stretching along the watershed of the Ob and Yenisei. The Chulyshmansky and Kuraisky-Aigulaisky ridges depart from them to the north-west, the spurs of which fill the space between the river. Katunyo and Teletskoye Lake. Central Altai is represented by two long mountain ranges. The southern chain consists of the Yuzhno-Chuysky ridge, separated from it deep gorge Argut, the Katunsky ridge and the Kholzun ridge lying behind the Katun valley. In the Katunsky ridge is the highest point of the Soviet Altai - double-headed mountain Belukha (4506 m). In addition to Belukha, peaks rise; peak 20 years of October (4167 m), peak 50 years of the CPSU (4000 m), Sapozhnikov peak (3950 m), etc. The total area of ​​Altai glaciation is 596 sq. km. km. Two types of glaciers are mainly developed - cirque and valley glaciers. Glaciers are concentrated in several centers of glaciation; from Belukha mountain radially descend 6 large glaciers: Mensu (11 km), Katunsky (8 km), Bolshoi Berelsky (8 km), etc.

Mountains of Kamchatka. In the middle part of the Kamchatka Peninsula there are two parallel ridges - Seredinny and Vostochny. The main ridge-Sredinny (with heights of 1500-2000 m) - begins to the north of the river. Plotnikova and runs along the entire peninsula. Max Height The middle ridge reaches 3621 m (extinct volcano Ichinsky). The eastern ridge is a system of ridges, elongated one after another along the entire peninsula - the Ganalsky Vostryaki ridge (the highest point is the city of Yurchan - 2060 m), the Valagin ridge, which does not rise above 1500 m, and the Kumroch ridge with a volcanic peak 2375 m high. East Coast Kamchatka is strongly dissected and represents a volcanic highland. There are about 120 volcanoes in Kamchatka, 22 of them are active. The highest point of Kamchatka is the highest active volcano Eastern Hemisphere - Klyuchevskaya Sopka(4850m).

Evgeny Marushevsky

freelancer, constantly travels the world

Many people will confidently show the highest mountain in the world. However, what about the second highest mountain after Everest?

Here are three points of view on which mountain to consider the second.

All mountains are in the Himalayas.

If there is a place in the world that deserves to be called the hall of the mountain kings, then this is right here.

Michael Palin

This is how a famous actor and traveler spoke about Karakorum. It is here that the second highest mountain in the world is located, if you count from sea level - Chogori or K2.

Located on the border of China and Pakistan, it is located in the state of Kashmir and belongs to mountain range Karakoram. Its other names: Dapsang, Godwin-Austin.

It is noteworthy that there was a long dispute regarding K-2, to which mountain system refer her. Since the Himalayas and the Karakorum practically consist of one chain of mountains. As a result, a conference of scientists who gathered on this occasion decided to attribute Mount Chogori to Karakorum.

The height of the mountain is 8611 meters above sea level. This is only 237 meters below Everest. But if the highest mountain in the world could be conquered even by disabled people in prostheses and elderly climbers, then Chogori belongs to the most difficult system for climbers.

Peak name

The second name of Mount Chogori is K2. The letter K stands for Karakorum. Contrary to popular belief, the numbering has nothing to do with the height of the top. Just in this way, a European explorer marked the mountains in front of him:

• K1 - Marchebroom,
• K2 - Chogori,
• K3 - Broad Peak,
• K5 - Garshebrum I,
• K4 - Garshebrum II.

Of all the names, only K2 stuck.

By the way, on Soviet maps until 1960 the mountain was named after Godwin Austen. Further name - Chogori.

Interestingly, the Pakistani government charges climbers about $900 for climbing Mount K2.

Chogori - killer mountain

For the first time I encounter a mountain that cannot be climbed from any direction. Everest was a walk compared to K2.

Reinhold Messner

Why was Chogori called the killer mountain? Because not everyone she lets in to her peak. According to statistics, every fourth climber who dares to climb a dangerous mountain does not return home.

At the moment, Mount Chogori has been conquered only 300 times, of which about 70 attempts were the last for climbers. In terms of danger among the "eight-thousanders", that is, mountains with a height of 8000 m or more, K2 ranks second after the infamous Annapurna. The death rate of the summit is about 25%.

Why such a high death rate?

The features of the human body are such that when climbing to a height of more than 6000 meters, the body goes into survival mode. Sleep and rest, although they do not restore strength, but save their remnants, serve as energy savings.

If climbing a mountain depended only on a person, then one could still understand the failed climbing attempts. But at such a high altitude, much also depends on wind speed, accidental failures in crevices or frostbite, an avalanche, or simply diseases that arose due to lack of oxygen.

At altitudes above 6000 m, the oxygen content is less than 1/3 of the permissible value without risk to human health. And the temperature conditions on the mountain are severe: -50 ° C with warm air from Tibet! If it is not there, you have to be content with -60 ° C.

The icy surface of the mountain, unpredictable climate, the most technically difficult terrain for climbers lead to the fact that the mountain takes every fourth daredevil.

A history of ups and downs

The first attempt to conquer Chogori was made in 1902. Six Europeans led by E. Ekenstein and A. Crowley ventured to climb to a height of 6525 m.

The first expedition was not successful. Stormy weather prevented their plans from being realized. However, thanks to this attempt, it was possible to collect key information about the state of the Godwin-Austen glacier, which served as a reliable foundation for the chain of further ascents.

Seven years later, there will be a second attempt to climb the unconquered Chogori by an expedition led by the Duke of Abruzzi. But it also ends badly.

Progress was made in 1938, when the Americans set a record - 7925 m, and the next year - 8382. Tragic death members of the expedition, including Dudley Wolf, forced the climbers to turn back.

Victory in the Conquest of Chogori

The first successful ascent became possible only in 1954. Only a quarter of a century after the first attempt. The first climbers who conquered Chogori were the Italian climbers Lino Lacedeli and Aquile Compagnoni. From camp 9 they continued their ascent when they ran out of oxygen just 150 meters from the summit. Then, in spite of everything, the Italians continued on their way and were the first to reach K2.

The first lone climber to conquer Chogori without oxygen was Messner Reingold.

The first woman to climb K2 was Wanda Rutkiewicz (1986). If we take into account the ascent of Chogori without oxygen tanks, then the first woman was Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner.

Russian climbers conquered the second highest mountain in the world in 1997. And in 2007, the Russians made an incredible difficult climb By western slope mountains that no one has yet climbed.

The second highest mountain in the world in the ranking of mountain systems

If we compare mountain systems with each other, we get the following table of the highest mountains:

After Everest, which has a height of 8448 m, the second highest mountain that does not belong to the Himalayan system of mountain ranges is Communism Peak in the Pamirs, its height is 7495 m.

A Brief History of Ismail Somoni Peak

In the USSR, it was considered the highest mountain. Location of Communism Peak - Tajikistan. Today the mountain bears the name of Ismail Somoni.

Communism Peak was discovered in 1920 and mistakenly thought it was Garmo Peak. However, during the research, inconsistencies in height were found, so the mountain was renamed Stalin Peak.

The first ascent to Stalin Peak (former name) was made by Yevgeny Abalakov together with the Pamir expedition. Among women climbers, the first was Lyudmila Agranovskaya.

And in 1986, a winter ascent to the mountain was made for the first time.

The second highest mountain in the world: a comparison between the continents

The second highest mountain is in South America- Aconcagua. It is also the highest mountain in the southern and western hemisphere.

Aconcagua is located in the Andes mountain range. Its height is 6962 m.

Climbing Mount Aconcagua is easy. Most often, climbers climb the northern slope. On the other sides of the mountain, the climb will be more difficult.

The first person to conquer the six-thousander Aconcagua was an Englishman. His name was Edward Fitzgerald. He climbed the mountain with an expedition in 1897.

website- Over 90% of the territory of our country is covered with mountains, because it is not for nothing that Kyrgyzstan is called the country of celestial mountains. Their uniqueness lies in the fact that the highest peaks of seven thousand meters, small heights, and incredibly beautiful landscapes are concentrated in a small area. In total, there are 14 peaks higher than 6000 m and 26 peaks higher than Mont Blanc (4807m), the highest point in Europe, on the territory of Kyrgyzstan. Our mountains belong mainly to the Tien Shan mountain range, a relatively smaller part is located in the Pamirs.

The name "Tien Shan" is translated from Chinese as "Heavenly Mountains"

The first mention of the Tien Shan Range appeared in antiquity. According to ancient writings and travelers' notes, expeditions to these places have been made since ancient times, but now they all look more like legends than reliable facts. For the first time, the Russian explorer Pyotr Semenov spoke about the secrets of the Tien Shan in the middle of the 19th century, thanks to which he received a second surname, Tien Shansky. The name "Tien Shan" is translated from Chinese as "Heavenly Mountains". The Tien Shan Range is the most long spine(2800 km) not only in Kyrgyzstan, but throughout Asia, in the central part of which are the highest peaks of our country - Pobeda Peak (7439 m) and Khan Tengri Peak (6995 m). In addition to them, there are 40 more peaks over 6000 meters high on the ridge.

Pobeda Peak - the highest peak of the Tien Shan

The highest point of the Tien Shan is Pobeda Peak (7439 m), discovered in 1943, the northernmost seven-thousander of the planet, located on the Kyrgyz-Chinese border, in the Kokshaal-Too ridge, east of Lake Issyk-Kul. It is called the most inaccessible, the most formidable seven-thousander - this peak makes very high demands on the physical and moral preparation of the climbers. The history of conquering Pobeda Peak is full interesting facts. In 1936, a group of climbers climbing Khan Tengri, then considered the highest peak of the Tien Shan, noticed that another mountain rises nearby, rivaling Khan Tengri in height. Two years later, an expedition of climbers headed to her famous researcher Tien Shan, Professor A. A. Letavet. Leonid Gutman, a participant in the ascent of Khan Tengri in 1936, was the head of the assault group of the expedition.

On September 19, 1938, three of the group of Professor A. A. Letavet climbed the mysterious peak and named it the peak of the 20th anniversary of the Komsomol. Experts compared photographs taken in 1938 by Gutman and in 1958 by V. Abalakov and found that they were taken from the same place. Thus, it was possible to prove that the climbers from the Gutman expedition were the first to conquer Pobeda Peak. Thus, Pobeda Peak was discovered - the highest peak of the Tien Shan.

Khan Tengri: "Bloody Mountain" or "Lord of Heaven"

Not far from Pobeda Peak rises Khan-Tengri Peak (6995 m). Its name, translated from Turkic, means "Lord of the Sky" or "Lord of the Heavens". Until recently, the height of Khan Tengri was 6995 m above sea level, but according to the latest data, the height is 7010 m, however, some people are suspicious of this. Some argue that this height is determined taking into account the thickness of the ice, others see the reason in the title of "Snow Leopard", because in order to get it you need to conquer five peaks, not four, with a height of over 7000 meters in Central Asia.

At the peak of Khan-Tengri (Kan-Too means "Bloody Mountain"), a capsule is buried that contains a message from the previous climbers who conquered the mountain to the future. Each new climber who has risen to a height digs out a capsule and writes his message in pencil - it is impossible to write with ink - writes his name, date of ascent and buries it again. Despite a large number of accidents, many climbers are still trying to climb the Kan-Too peak.

Pamir-Alay - seven-thousander mountains of Kyrgyzstan

Pamir - "The roof of the world", the highest mountain system in the entire post-Soviet space, spread over an area of ​​60,000 square meters. km and is a highly branched network of ridges covered with eternal snows and boundless intermountain valleys that make up the Pamir Highlands. However, Kyrgyzstan owns only the most extreme region - the northern slopes of the Zaalai Range and the northern parts of the Pamir-Alai, which include: the Alai Valley, as well as the Turkestan and Alai Ranges.

Sacred mountain Sulaiman-Too

The sacred mountain in the city of Osh, which in June 2009 became the country's first World Heritage Site. The mountain is a five-domed calcareous remnant, elongated from west to east. Its length is more than 1140 m, width - 560 m. Since ancient times it had a sacred meaning, as evidenced by the preserved petroglyphs. Today, Mount Sulaiman-Too is a kind of Mecca, which is the last hope for many of its visitors. Most of which are women. Someone asks Sulaiman-Too for well-being for the family, someone - for health, someone - for procreation. People believe in the magical properties of the ancient sanctuary.

Mountain peaks:

Aitmatov Peak
A mountain peak in Kyrgyzstan, located in the central part of the Kyrgyz Range, in the region of the Salyk glacier. The height of the peak is 4650 m. The mountain got its name in 2000 in honor of the outstanding Kyrgyz writer Chingiz Aitmatov. Until now, it has been unnamed.

Vladimir Putin Peak
The peak is located in the Tien Shan mountain system. It is located on the territory of the Chui region. Named in 2011 in honor of the second President of the Russian Federation Vladimir Vladimirovich Putin.

Boris Yeltsin Peak
The peak is located on the Terskey Ala-Too ridge of the Tien Shan mountain system. It is located on the territory of the Issyk-Kul region. Renamed in 2002 in honor of the first President of the Russian Federation Boris Nikolaevich Yeltsin.

Peak Lenin
Mountain peak located on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. One of the "seven-thousanders" - the highest peaks of the former USSR. One of the highest peaks of Central Asia, located in the Pamir mountain system.

Free Korea
A peak located in the Tien Shan mountains in the Kyrgyz Range, in the Chui region, on the territory of the Ala-Archa National Park. Its height, according to various sources, is 4740-4778 meters.

Peak Semyonov
Mountain peak in the Central Tien Shan. The highest point of the Saryzhaz ridge (5816 m). It rises above the valley with the Northern Inylchek glacier. The peak was named after Petr Petrovich Semyonov, who explored the Central Tien Shan in 1857.

Crown Peak

Corona Peak (4860 m) is located on the territory national park Ala-Archa. Six peaks from afar resemble a crown, which explains their name. Mountain slopes reach a height of 600 meters, the northern slope - 900 meters.

In the section on the question Tajikistan 93% of the mountains, what, the highest peak, height and what is the name. given by the author Gennadij Klemmer the best answer is Pamir.
Pamir - the highest mountain system in the south of the former USSR (former USSR), now - the territory of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. It covers an area of ​​about 60,000 sq. m and represents extensive network ever-snowy ridges and vast intermountain valleys, forming the Pamir Highlands.
The highest point of the Pamirs is the Kongur peak (7719) located in China, and on the territory post-Soviet space- Ismail Samani peak (7495 m). Discovered in 1928. First mistakenly identified with Garmo Peak. Later, the mistake was corrected and from 1932 to 1962 the mountain was called Stalin Peak, from 1962 to 1998 - Communism Peak, from 1998 - Ismail Samani Peak. It is the highest peak of the entire former USSR.
Other "seven-thousanders" of the Pamirs are Lenin Peak (7165 m), discovered in 1871, named Kaufman Peak. In 1928 it was renamed Lenin Peak, since July 2006 - Abuali Ibn Sino Peak (in honor of Avicenna), also known as Ibn Sina Peak.
Peak Korzhenevskaya - height 7105 m. Discovered in 1910 by the Russian geographer N. L. Korzhenevsky and named after his wife Evgenia Korzhenevskaya.
Independence Peak (Taj.: Kullai Istiqlol) - height 6974 m, opened in 1928, until July 2006 it was called Revolution Peak (Taj.: Kullai Inqilob).

Answer from workable[guru]
Once called Communism Peak
Pamir is a traditional region of tourism and high-altitude mountaineering. Here, two Pamir seven-thousanders majestically soar into the sky: Ismail Samani (Communism) peak - 7495 m and Evgenia Korzhenevskaya peak - 7105 m. They are very popular with climbers all over the world.
More than twenty routes of various difficulty categories have been laid to the peak of Ismail Samani
Another seven-thousander In the east - Lenin Peak (7134 m),