The history of the colonization of the Kola Peninsula in folklore, the lives of Russian saints and historical documents. The history of the legendary Russian settlements in the Arctic

The settlement of the Kola Peninsula began a very long time ago. Archaeologists have discovered sites of people of the Stone Age. They belong to 7-11 thousand BC. The ancestors of the modern Saami appeared here in 2000 BC. Saami (Lapps) - indigenous people Kola Peninsula - since ancient times they have been engaged in reindeer herding, hunting, and fishing. Trade and the development of crafts in Europe required the development of new territories in order to use them natural resources. The first Russian settlements appeared on the peninsula in the 9th-11th centuries. The chronicles speak of the fabulous riches of Murman: furs, fish, deer, sea animals. In the XI century. Novgorodians on their ships have already plowed the waters of the White and Barents Seas.

In the X-XII centuries. Novgorodians took possession of a vast territory north of the Gulf of Finland and the Kola Peninsula to the Pechora basin. Already in the 1st half of the 12th century, among the Novgorod lands, the volost Tre (Tersky coast White Sea), and in the 13th century, the Russian villages of Varzuga and Kola are mentioned. The Russians quickly settled the coast of the peninsula, mastered the sea routes around the Tersky portage (as the Kola Peninsula was called in the annals). The appearance of Russians not only contributed to the development of the region, but also ensured the protection of the indigenous population from the raids of Western conquerors.

At a later time (1589-1591, 1611, several times in the 18th and early 19th centuries), Swedish and Danish troops, English pirates came to the land of Murman. They burned villages, robbed the population and monasteries, killed civilians. There is an ancient Sami legend that the Sami managed to defend their land, and the blood they spilled turned into a stone eudialyte (Lapp blood). In 1854-1855, during the Crimean War, the English fleet burned Kandalaksha, Keret, Strelna, Kola, but could not capture the coast.

In the 16th-18th century, the Kola Peninsula played a prominent role in the Russian economy. But by the beginning of the 19th century economic development region has slowed down due to the opening of new trade routes despite the huge natural resources peninsulas.

In the 17th century, the Sami began to breed deer. Before that, they simply caught wild deer and used them as a vehicle and for food. Fishing was rapidly developing on the Murmansk coast. By the end of the century, 200-250 thousand pounds of fish were caught annually. In 1803, the White Sea Company for the extraction of fish and sea animals was formed. By the middle of the 19th century, up to 500 Pomeranian ships began to come to Murman annually, which caught more than 400 thousand pounds of fish. At the same time, about 5 thousand people lived on the Kola Peninsula by the beginning of the 19th century, and about 9 thousand people at its end.

Since the 1860s, Murman has become a shore of hope for many. The Russian authorities wanted to populate the border coast and, in order to attract and support settlers-colonists, were ready to provide them with various benefits and privileges. At the invitation of the Russian Tsar, about one and a half hundred immigrants from Norway, as well as from Finland, arrived here. Thus, large settlements of Norwegians were formed in Tsyp-Navolok on the Rybachy Peninsula, and Finns in Ura-Guba (Kola District).

IN local history museum In Murmansk there is an exhibition about Finnish and Norwegian settlers, their life and work on a permanent basis. The exhibition is called “Murman – the Shore of Hope. History of colonization. 1860-1940". Here you can learn about the fate of individual colonial families after the revolution, during the Great Terror and the Second World War, about life in the post-war and 90s. The exhibition has been assembled over the course of three years by the Norwegian Varanger Museum, which was joined by research institutes in Murmansk, Arkhangelsk, Rovaniemi, Helsinki and Tromso.

The central regions of the Kola Peninsula remained covered in a fog of uncertainty for a very long time. All the maps available before 1840 were incorrect in principle. And only in the summer of 1840, the route of A.F. crossed the middle part of the Kola Peninsula. Mendeldorf. The map of his route from Kola to Kandalaksha turned out to be a fairly accurate depiction of the Imandra basin.

An in-depth geographical study of the Kola Peninsula began only in the second half of the 19th century by the expeditions of N. Kudryavtsev (1881) and S. Rabo (1884), Finnish scientists V. Ramsay, A. Chilman and A. Petrelius (1887-1889). The topographer of the Finnish expedition A. Petrelius was the first to make a semi-instrumental survey of the Imandra basin. Geologist N.V. Kudryavtsev, along with geological observations, made sketches, collected interesting materials on the topography and toponymy of the region.

Coordinates : 68° N sh. 36° in. d. /  68° N sh. 36° in. d.  / 68; 36 (G) (I)

Kola Peninsula(mouth. Murman, Cola, Ter listen)) is a peninsula in the northwest of the European part of Russia, in the Murmansk region. It is washed by the Barents and White seas.

In the western part there are the Khibiny mountain ranges (up to 1200 m high) and Lovozero tundras (up to 1120 m high). In the north - tundra vegetation, to the south - forest tundra and taiga.

Borders

The Kola Peninsula occupies a little less than 70% of the area of ​​the Murmansk region. The western border of the Kola Peninsula is defined by the meridional depression, which runs from the Kola Bay along the Kola River, Imandra Lake, Niva River to Kandalaksha Bay.

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Physical and geographical characteristics

Geographical position

The Kola Peninsula is located in the far north of Russia. Almost the entire territory is located beyond the Arctic Circle.

In the north it is washed by the waters of the Barents Sea, in the south and east by the waters of the White Sea. The western boundary of the Kola Peninsula is the meridional depression, which runs from the Kola Bay along the valley of the Kola River, Lake Imandra and the Niva River to Kandalaksha Bay. The area is about 100 thousand km².

Climate

The climate of the peninsula is varied. In the northwest, warmed by the warm North Atlantic Current, it is subarctic marine. Towards the center, east and southwest of the peninsula, continentality increases - the climate here is moderately cold. Average January-February temperatures range from minus 8 °C in the northwest of the peninsula to minus 14 °C in the center; July, respectively, from 8 °C to 14 °C. Snow falls in October and completely disappears only by mid-late May (in mountainous areas in early-mid June). Frosts and snowfall are possible in summer. Strong winds (up to 45-55 m/s) are frequent on the coast, and lingering blizzards in winter.

Hydrology

There are many rivers flowing along the Kola Peninsula: Ponoy (the most long river on the peninsula), Varzuga, Kola, Yokanga, Teriberka, Voronya, Umba, etc.

There are a large number of lakes, the largest are Imandra, Umbozero, Lovozero.

Geological structure


In the western part of the Kola Peninsula, which has a dissected relief, the territory reaches its highest heights. There are separate mountain ranges with flat tops, separated by depressions: Khibiny and Lovozero tundra. Their heights reach 900-1,000 m. (397 m), consisting of separate chains stretched from northwest to southeast along the central part of the peninsula.

The Kola Peninsula occupies the eastern part of the Baltic crystalline shield, in the geological structure of which thick strata of the Archean and Proterozoic take part. The Archaean is represented by highly metamorphosed and intensely dislocated gneisses and granites, in places cut through by pegmatite bodies. Proterozoic deposits are more diverse in composition - quartzites, crystalline schists, sandstones, marbles, partly gneisses interbedded with greenstone rocks.

Minerals

In terms of the variety of mineral species, the Kola Peninsula has no analogues in the world. About 1000 minerals have been discovered on its territory - almost 1/3 of all known on Earth. About 150 minerals are found nowhere else. Deposits of apatite-nepheline ores (Khibiny), iron, nickel, platinum metals, rare earth metals, lithium, titanium, beryllium, building and jewelry and ornamental stones (amazonite, amethyst, chrysolite, garnet, jasper, iolite, etc.), ceramic pegmatites , mica (muscovite, phlogopite and vermiculite - the world's largest reserves).

Relief and nature

Flora and fauna

Infrastructure

The cities of Murmansk, Apatity, Severomorsk, Kirovsk, Ostrovnoy, Kola and Kandalaksha and the urban-type settlements of Safonovo, Kildinstroy, Revda and Umba are located on the peninsula.

The Russian Northern Fleet's bases of Severomorsk and Gremikha are located on the peninsula. Severomorsk is the headquarters of the Northern Fleet.

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An excerpt characterizing the Kola Peninsula

In St. Petersburg, Helen enjoyed the special patronage of a nobleman who occupied one of the highest positions in the state. In Vilna, she became close to a young foreign prince. When she returned to Petersburg, the prince and the nobleman were both in Petersburg, both claimed their rights, and for Helen a task new in her career presented itself: to maintain her close relationship with both without offending either one.
What would have seemed difficult and even impossible for another woman never made Countess Bezukhova think, not without reason, apparently, she had a reputation as the smartest woman. If she began to hide her actions, to extricate herself by cunning from an awkward situation, she would thereby ruin her business, realizing herself guilty; but Helen, on the contrary, immediately, like a truly great person who can do whatever she wants, put herself in the position of rightness, in which she sincerely believed, and all others in the position of guilt.
For the first time, as a young foreign face allowed herself to reproach her, she, proudly raising her beautiful head and turning half-turn to him, said firmly:
- Voila l "egoisme et la cruaute des hommes! Je ne m" attendais pas a autre chose. Za femme se sacrifie pour vous, elle souffre, et voila sa recompense. Quel droit avez vous, Monseigneur, de me demander compte de mes amities, de mes affections? C "est un homme qui a ete plus qu" un pere pour moi. [Here is the selfishness and cruelty of men! I didn't expect anything better. The woman sacrifices herself to you; she suffers, and here is her reward. Your highness, what right have you to demand from me an account of my affections and friendships? This is a man who was more than a father to me.]
The face wanted to say something. Helen interrupted him.
- Eh bien, oui, she said, - peut etre qu "il a pour moi d" autres sentiments que ceux d "un pere, mais ce n" est; pas une raison pour que je lui ferme ma porte. Je ne suis pas un homme pour etre ingrate. Sachez, Monseigneur, pour tout ce qui a rapport a mes sentiments intimes, je ne rends compte qu "a Dieu et a ma conscience, [Well, yes, maybe the feelings he has for me are not entirely paternal; but from for this I should not refuse him my house. I am not a man to pay with ingratitude. Let it be known to your highness that in my intimate feelings I give account only to God and my conscience.] - she finished, touching her hand to raised high beautiful breasts and looking at the sky.
Mais ecoutez moi, au nom de Dieu. [But listen to me, for God's sake.]
- Epousez moi, et je serai votre esclave. [Marry me and I will be your work.]
- Mais c "est impossible. [But this is impossible.]
- Vous ne daignez pas descende jusqu "a moi, vous ... [You do not condescend to marry me, you ...] - Helen said, crying.
The face began to comfort her; Helen, through tears, said (as if forgetting) that nothing could prevent her from getting married, that there were examples (there were still few examples then, but she named Napoleon and other high persons), that she had never been the wife of her husband, that she was sacrificed.
“But laws, religion…” the face was already giving up.
- Laws, religion ... What would they have been invented if they could not do this! Ellen said.
The important person was surprised that such a simple reasoning could not occur to him, and he turned for advice to the holy brothers of the Society of Jesus, with whom he was in close relations.
A few days after that, at one of the charming holidays that Helen gave at her dacha on stone island, she was introduced to a middle-aged, with snow-white hair and black shining eyes, charming m r de Jobert, un jesuite a robe courte, [Mr. , talked with Helen about love for God, for Christ, for the heart mother of god and about the consolations brought in this life and in the next life by the one true Catholic religion. Helen was touched, and several times she and Mr. Jobert had tears in their eyes and their voices trembled. The dance, to which the gentleman came to call Helen, upset her conversation with her future directeur de conscience [guardian of conscience]; but the next day mr de Jobert came alone in the evening to Helene, and from that time began to visit her often.
One day he took the countess to a Catholic church, where she knelt before the altar, to which she was led. A middle-aged charming Frenchman put his hands on her head, and, as she herself later told, she felt something like a breath of fresh wind that descended into her soul. It was explained to her that it was la grace [grace].
Then the abbot was brought to her a robe longue [in a long dress], he confessed her and remitted her sins to her. The next day, a box containing the sacrament was brought to her and left at home for her to use. After a few days, Helen learned to her pleasure that she had now entered the true Catholic Church, and that in a few days the pope himself would find out about her and send her some kind of paper.
Everything that was done during this time around her and with her, all this attention paid to her by so many intelligent people and expressed in such pleasant, refined forms, and the pigeon purity in which she now found herself (she wore all this time white dresses with white ribbons) - all this gave her pleasure; but because of this pleasure, she did not miss her goal for a moment. And as always happens that in a matter of cunning, a stupid person leads smarter ones, she, realizing that the purpose of all these words and troubles was mainly to convert her to Catholicism, to take money from her in favor of the Jesuit institutions (about which she hinted), Helen, before giving money, insisted that she be subjected to those various operations that would free her from her husband. In her conception, the significance of any religion consisted only in the fact that, in satisfying human desires, to observe certain decorum. And for this purpose, in one of her conversations with her confessor, she urgently demanded from him an answer to the question of the extent to which her marriage binds her.
They sat in the living room by the window. There were dusk. Flowers smelled from the window. Helen was wearing a white dress that showed through her shoulders and chest. The abbot, well-fed, but with a plump, smoothly shaven beard, a pleasant strong mouth and white hands folded meekly on his knees, sat close to Helen and with a thin smile on his lips, peacefully - admiring her beauty with a look from time to time looked at her face and expounded his opinion to their question. Helen smiled uneasily, looked at his curly hair, smooth-shaven, blackening, full cheeks, and waited every minute for a new turn in the conversation. But the abbe, although obviously enjoying the beauty and intimacy of his companion, was carried away by the skill of his craft.
The reasoning of the leader of conscience was as follows. In ignorance of the significance of what you were undertaking, you took a vow of marriage fidelity to a man who, on his part, having entered into marriage and not believing in the religious significance of marriage, committed blasphemy. This marriage did not have the double meaning it should have. But in spite of that, your vow bound you. You backed off from him. What did you do with it? Peche veniel or peche mortel? [A venial sin or a mortal sin?] Peche veniel, because you did an act without ill intent. If you now, in order to have children, would enter into a new marriage, then your sin could be forgiven. But the question again splits in two: the first ...

The article provides an overview of the ancient history of the Kola Peninsula, which testifies to its early settlement and development by people - newcomers from the western and southern regions. Material materials obtained as a result of excavations speak of the originality of culture ancient population the region in question.

Among the vast expanses of the Soviet Arctic, the Kola Peninsula, to a certain extent, is rightly considered the most explored in archaeological terms.

As a result of the total amount of work done, not only has the myth of the uninhabited peninsula in antiquity been forever destroyed, but it has also created the opportunity to find out the main stages in the development of the culture of its ancient population. However, as we will see below, it is this territory that more than others requires an increase in the scope and acceleration of the pace of research.

The history of the archaeological study of the Kola Peninsula can be broadly divided into three periods. The first - the end of the XIX - the beginning of the XX century. During this period, the first steps were taken in the field of knowledge of the distant past of the peninsula by travelers. The earliest of them are associated with the Russian envoys of S.G. Zvenigorodsky and G.V. Vasilchikov, who visited the northwestern part of the Kola Peninsula in 1592 in connection with negotiations with the Swedes on the definition of the border. They recorded a legend about the construction of a labyrinth in Valitova Bay (Varanger Fjord) and mentioned a labyrinth near the village. Cola, destroyed later (in 1852) during the construction of the Kola Peninsula.

These mysterious stone structures- labyrinths - attracted the attention of other travelers: A.I. Kelsiev [ 1878 ], E. Vera, L.V. Eliseeva [ 1883 ], K.P. Reva [ 1900 ], S. Durylina [ 1913 ], in one form or another addressing the specified topic. However, everything except these exotic monuments continued to remain unknown. And, moreover, a judgment was born about the absence of other evidence of a person's stay here. So, A.I. Kelsiev, who made a trip to the Kola Peninsula in 1877 in order to collect materials for the First Anthropological Exhibition in Moscow and incidentally mentioned those he met at the village. Ponoy stone heaps and two “chudsky pits”, wrote: “From Sosnowiec to the north, I rode along the coast with the Lapps and along the Lapps, and only the last 150 miles before Koloya I do on a steamboat. In addition to stone heaps and two undoubtedly Chud pits, round and funnel-shaped (4 sazhens in diameter), near Ponoi, the coast does not represent prehistoric antiquities. After all the research, I can confidently say that they are not here. Kelsiev, 1878].

The second period of research falls on the 20s and 30s, when archaeological objects became known for the first time thanks to the discoveries of biologists and geologists in the course of their special studies. In this regard, we can gratefully mention the names of G.D. Richter, S.F. Egorova, G.I. Goretsky, B.F. Zemlyakova, I.I. Krasnova, S.V. Yakovleva and others. The first archaeologist was A.V. Schmidt, who in 1928 excavated near the village. Kuzomen [ Schmidt, 1928] and on Bolshoy Oleniy Island in the Barents Sea [ Schmidt, 1930]. Later, in 1934, 1935, archaeological research on the Kola Isthmus and near the city of Kola was carried out by G.I. Goretsky [ 1937 ], and in 1935, 1937. on the Rybachy Peninsula - B.F. Countrymen [ 1936, 1937a, 1937b, 1940]. Finally, listing the researchers of this period, one cannot fail to recall one of the prominent local historians of the Murmansk region - V.K. Alymov, who provided significant assistance to archaeologists with his information about the location of the monuments.

In the 40s. the study of the Kola Peninsula included in its plan the Leningrad branch of the Institute of Archeology of the USSR Academy of Sciences. It was from that time - the third period - that a systematic, although not continuous, study of it began with the help of purposeful exploration and excavation of monuments [ Gurina, 1947; 1948; 1950; 1951; 1953a; 1953b; 1960; 1971a; 1971b; 1973a; 1973b ].

Of particular note is how very productive, last years(1969-1973), when effective assistance was provided by the Northern Branch of the Geographical Society [ Gurina, 1971b]. Thanks to the commonwealth of the two institutions, the organizational side has noticeably improved (primarily transport capabilities, which is of decisive importance in the conditions of the Kola Peninsula).

For the modern period, it is also necessary to note the well-known confluence of archaeological research in the Soviet Arctic as a whole and their connection with the study of the polar regions of Scandinavia and America. However, such coordination of work for the entire polar zone should be considered only the beginning.

To date, over 400 archaeological sites of various nature and significance are known on the Kola Peninsula: short-term sites and long-term settlements, burial grounds and places of worship, art objects. Using their data as a historical source, it is possible to outline the main stages of the ancient history of the people who once lived here, to catch the progressive development of its economy and spiritual culture. It became obvious that despite the extremely harsh natural conditions, as well as the remoteness and known isolation from the centers of civilization, the Kola Peninsula began to be settled early by people.

The initial penetration of primitive hunters here dates back to the Mesolithic era - the 7th-6th millennium BC, apparently immediately after the retreat of the last glaciation and the elimination of its residual forms in lowland areas. As a result of the fact that all sites of that time were located near the sea, the height of the terraces on which we now find monuments serves as one of the important arguments in determining the time of their existence.

Until recent years, Mesolithic sites were known only on the Rybachy Peninsula. Surveys carried out in 1963 and especially in 1972-1973 made it possible to find them on a wider territory - on the entire sea coast of the northwestern part of the mainland, on rivers and inland lakes located near the city of Nikel, as well as in the northeastern parts of the Kola Peninsula - in the Lumbovskaya Bay, etc. At the same time, the location of the monuments with amazing clarity outlines the outlines of ancient coastlines.

All Mesolithic sites occupy a small area, having a thin cultural layer, which is explained by the small number of groups that lived on them, leading a mobile lifestyle of reindeer hunters and gatherers of seafood.

For the manufacture of tools, local types of stone were used: quartzites, rock crystal, occasionally slate and flint. The places of extraction of these materials - ancient workshops - were discovered. The exact topography of the finds makes it possible to reveal the contours of dwellings, rounded in plan, such as chums.

A very peculiar quartz inventory of the settlements, extremely close to the tools of the Mesolithic sites in Norway, Finland and Karelia, allows us to consider the first population of the Kola Peninsula culturally close to the population of this territory. However, the works of 1973 succeeded in making a significant addition to this question. Parking lots open on the river. Shuoniyoki, showed that there was also a population whose culture was closer to the southern tribes - the tribes of the Volga-Oka interfluve. The tools found at these sites are made of local rocks - milky chert and gray flint. Techniques for the manufacture of tools and their shape (arrowheads on plates with retouched points and stems, conical cores) are very typical not only of the Volga-Oka, but also of the more southern Mesolithic.

Thus, the earlier expressed by us idea about the primary settlement of the Kola Peninsula from two territories - northwestern and southern - is confirmed.

During the Neolithic era, dating from the end of the 4th-2nd millennium BC, the climate of the Arctic remained warmer than the modern one. Neolithic monuments on the Kola Peninsula are much more numerous, which indicates a strong development of it by man. At the same time, the increase in the population went in two ways - due to the growth of aborigines and as a result of new aliens from outside. The latter brought with them new cultural skills. Apparently, the acquaintance of the ancient inhabitants of the Kola Peninsula with pottery also happened in this way. Their earliest vessels are extremely close to the vessels of the tribes of the Volga-Oka interfluve, while in the developed late Neolithic, distinctive features in the technique of their manufacture, form and ornamentation noticeably stand out.

In the Neolithic era, as a whole, material culture had peculiar features. The vast majority of tools were made from local types of stone. For small tools - scrapers, scrapers, mainly quartz was used, which occurs in the form of small pebbles on the coast or interlayers enclosed in granite. Rock crystal and chalcedony were often used for smaller tools (Fig. 1).

Shale was especially widely used in the Neolithic era, from which both large chopping tools - axes, adzes and chisels, and small ones - arrowheads were made.

The main techniques for making slate tools were sawing, fine (point) retouching, and grinding. A large number of grinding plates and saws made of quartzite were found in the parking lots. Polished slate rings were used as decoration. The abundance of sinkers, often found in groups, testifies to the increased role of net fishing, which, along with hunting, has become the main form of economy. At the same time, judging by the weight of the sinker, one should conclude about quite large size networks.

For the indicated time, two types of dwellings are known - semi-dugouts and light portable plagues.

Based on the topography of the sites and the analysis of their inventory, it can be concluded that the Neolithic population led a semi-sedentary lifestyle typical of reindeer hunters and fishermen. On the sea coast, short-term settlements predominate, and long-term settlements on inland lakes. Only in very closed bays, such as Nerpicya Bay near Drozdovka, apparently, the population remained to winter. From other bays, open from the sea to the freezing north winds, but extremely rich in fish in summer time, it migrated in the autumn after the deer into the interior of the peninsula, under the protection of the forest, to the shores of lakes, in order to provide food for itself by fishing and hunting.

The time of the emergence of Neolithic cultures and their duration were previously determined by us by comparison with more southern cultures. The possibility of dating with the help of the exact sciences - the 14 C method, which has now appeared, has made it possible to significantly make the monuments older. Over the past 4 years, 7 radiocarbon datings have been obtained for the Kola Peninsula, which make it possible to attribute the time of the emergence of Neolithic cultures to no later than the end of the 4th millennium BC.

The materials testify to very close ties between the ancient population of the Kola Peninsula and the population of Karelia, Finland and Norway. At different stages of the Neolithic, their intensity was different. Apparently, the tribes that inhabited Norway borrowed the ornamentation of ceramics from their eastern neighbors. At the same time, the inhabitants of the Kola Peninsula had close ties with their southeastern neighbors - the inhabitants of the Arkhangelsk White Sea region, from where they received light flint for making tools.

So, on the basis of the culture of the local Mesolithic population, communication with neighboring tribes and a significant influx of population from the more southern territory, over time, the inhabitants of the Kola Peninsula of the Neolithic era developed original culture. At the same time, the pronounced features of the severe natural environment of the Arctic zone, which gave rise to a certain uniformity in the economy and life of the ancient peoples of the Arctic, served as a pretext for researchers to develop the theory of a single "circumpolar" culture. However, research carried out by the Leningrad branch of the Institute of Archeology of the USSR Academy of Sciences in the European and Asian Arctic regions revealed a much more complex interweaving of ethnocultural processes among the ancient inhabitants of the Arctic. It turned out that the ancient tribes of the Arctic, often separated from each other by a huge space, had independent cultures with unique features. Such was the culture of the Neolithic tribes of the Kola Peninsula.

Obviously, already at the beginning of the 1st millennium BC. the development of the material culture of the population of the region under consideration entered a new phase - the Bronze Age began. The progressive development of the culture of the Arctic tribes throughout Eurasia was not stopped by the deterioration of the climate, which began in the second half of the 2nd millennium BC. The population of the Kola Peninsula managed to adapt to the new conditions and, moreover, was significantly replenished with newcomers from the neighboring territory located to the south and east. One of the reasons for this movement, apparently, was the influx, in turn, to these areas of tribes from the regions of the Upper Volga region.

Acquaintance with bronze did not stop, however, the use of stone tools, which turned out to be characteristic not only for all the tribes of the Arctic, but also for the forest zone. Many types of tools continued to be made from stone and bone. On the basis of Neolithic cultures, over time, a new culture of fishermen-hunters developed with peculiar types of tools made of quartz, slate, slate and flint and clay vessels made with an admixture of crushed asbestos, decorated with fine carved ornaments. They very sharply differed from the large thick-walled Neolithic vessels, ornamented with pits of various shapes and imprints of a comb stamp. Spinning and weaving appeared, as evidenced, in particular, by bone combs for combing yarn.

Significant progress in the economy of primitive tribes should be considered the emergence of sea fishing, which was inevitably accompanied by the development of water vehicles - boats sufficiently adapted to travel by sea. Finds of bone harpoons, in some cases very perfect - turning, bone and combined (bone with flint tips), and numerous seal bones indicate the success of the fishery.

New stage in development material culture ancient tribes was marked by their acquaintance with iron. Apparently, the beginning of the use of iron falls on the second half of the 1st millennium BC. However, the first acquaintance with the properties of iron, perhaps not yet realized, apparently occurred almost simultaneously with the use of bronze. Of considerable interest in this regard are two pieces of iron ore found together with stone and bone tools in one of the Olenyostrovskaya burials in the Barents Sea. The whole group of things lay behind the head of the deceased.

All over the Arctic during that period, independent cultures developed, which were in a certain interaction with the cultures of neighboring tribes. Hunting and fishing tools are being improved, sea fishing is developing, ties are maintained with the western neighbors (especially in the northwestern part of the peninsula), at the same time, the originality of culture is enhanced, a certain consolidation of the population is born due to the influx from the south (from Karelia) of kindred tribes, forced go north under the onslaught of more southern newcomers. It seems that at this time we can talk about the closest ancestors of the Saami.

Until now, we have only touched upon the development of the material culture of the ancient population of the Kola Peninsula and, to some extent, its ethno-cultural history. At the same time, the archaeological sites explored during this time lift the veil over the spiritual image of a person. His worldview is most clearly manifested in the objects of art that have come down to us. In this regard, we have information about the nature of the funeral rite in the Oleneostrovsky burial ground, which testifies to the identification of the afterlife and the real world, which was reflected in the burial of all necessary things with the buried and in art objects.

Ornamentation of bone tools, bright and original, clearly shows the developed aesthetic needs and tastes of the ancient population, its rhythm and form, the concept of counting. The horn sculpture of an elk points to the cult of animals that existed in the beliefs of primitive hunters.

Before the works of 1973, in order to penetrate the most intimate - the worldview of the ancient tribes of the Kola Peninsula - we were forced to use the rock carvings of Karelia as one of the sources. And therefore it is especially pleasant that now it is possible to report on the possibility of using rock carvings discovered in the heart of the peninsula for this purpose, on the river. Ponoy. The group that worked there was subsidized by ¾ of the funds from the Northern Branch of the Geographical Society.

In the middle reaches of the river Ponoi, on the territory of Cape Chalmn-Varre, in the immediate vicinity of the water and somewhat higher, five separate stones were found ranging in size from 1.25 x 1.05 to 2.05 x 2.60 m. Their height above the water level ranges from 3 to 7 m. The distance from each other is different - from 10 to 56 m. All stones are hard rock (probably granite), brownish or gray in color. However, their density is different, which affected the preservation of images. The stones, which have a dense structure, are covered with clear, deep patterns; on coarser-grained stones, the drawings were preserved much worse. Some stones, especially those located far from the river, in some cases are covered with vegetation - moss. A significant part of them is very densely covered with drawings overlapping one another.

The best preserved stone is No. 1 measuring 2.05 x 2.60 m. It is brownish in color, very dense, shiny from sunburn or the action of water. Closest to the water, it apparently flooded. The shape of the stone is rhomboid. The drawings are concentrated towards one corner. The images on it (Fig. 2a), however, as on other stones, are carved with a dot technique, which, like in Karelian rock carvings, completely fills the contours of the figure. The figures do not overlap each other, although they are quite densely embossed. They are very clear and concise in content. In total, there are 18 figures on the stone, the sizes of which are different, but do not exceed 30 cm in length. Sixteen images are anthropomorphic, two are zoomorphic. Images of deer or elks dominate, as well as on other stones. Sometimes they are amazing in expressiveness and realism. Each figure has an independent meaning and is not embedded in a specific plot, which brings it closer to the images. Lake Onega and the earlier group of the White Sea. The early age (probably late Neolithic) is evidenced by the realistic manner of images, in contrast to images located on stones lying at higher elevations.

Realistic images of animals are also found on other stones. In some cases they are bright, in others they are very pale, almost ghostly, their shape is hardly guessed. In all cases, they are silhouette.

The drawings on stones nos. 5 and 6, located higher and farther from the river, are especially difficult to read, since here the mass of images overlaps each other (Fig. 2b).

Noteworthy is one of the stones, falling out of the general style and requiring careful study to determine the age. It is only certain that this phenomenon is of a later order, perhaps standing close to the present.

Comparing the newly discovered monuments of primitive art in such northern latitudes with similar monuments in other territories (including the southernmost and most southeastern ones), we must note their closest proximity to the Karelian and Scandinavian ones, while emphasizing the well-known originality manifested in the style (some dryness and disproportionate figures) and in departure from the strict canon in the manner of performance. Thus, several figures of deer are depicted with two pairs or three legs, which is not found in the petroglyphs of Karelia [ Linevsky, 1939; Ravdonikas, 1938; Savateev, 1970 ].

These details make us turn to the rock paintings of Chukotka [ Dikov, 1971], in Pegtymel, near the Arctic Circle, discovered several years ago by N.N. Dikov. Being different in the manner of execution, partly in plots, more complex in composition, they also contain drawings of animals - elk and deer, which in several cases are shown with two pairs or three legs.

The study of rock art on the river. Ponoy should be considered only begun. Considerable efforts will be required to read the drawings, fix them accurately, divide them into chronological layers and establish relationships. The question of their protection also arises. At the same time, it must be emphasized that such a study will be carried out in close connection with the study of newly discovered sites on the river. Ponoy (in the amount of 12), some of which have a well-preserved cultural layer. Only in the interrelation of monuments of a domestic nature, such as settlements, and monuments of primitive art, it will be possible to reveal their true meaning.

Finally, we should touch on another source for studying the thinking of the ancient inhabitants of the area we are considering. It's about labyrinths. Three of them were first discovered by an expedition on the river. Varzina in 1973. At the same time, the labyrinth, which we had previously discovered on the river, was re-examined. Vyashchina (Fig. 3).

The theme of labyrinths has recently become very fashionable. She managed to acquire various theories and fictions, which, however, did not clarify the essence of these mysterious structures.

At present, we can only state the facts, which boil down to the following. The plot of labyrinths in various variations occupies a very wide space - from Far North up to and including Australia. Their chronological range is just as great - from images on objects of the Bronze Age to the 17th century. - drawings on the floors of churches and earthworks in England. Apparently, their semantic meaning is no less diverse, undoubtedly, in most cases, rethought.

Our stone labyrinths in the form concentric circles, laid out of stones, occupy a much narrower territory. They are known on the Kola Peninsula, on the White Sea (at the mouth of the Keret River and on the Solovetsky Islands), in Finland and Northern Norway- in areas abounding in stone.

All these structures (to the full extent, with a single exception) are confined to the sea coast, in particular, to the mouths of rivers rich in fish. On the Kola Peninsula, these places are the tones. All the labyrinths we examined have an entrance facing away from the river or the sea. In all the places we examined, they are accompanied by sites containing quartz tools and sometimes ceramics from the Early Iron Age. Only in two cases, on the Solovetsky Islands and in Vyashchina, special stone structures are located near the labyrinths, in one case associated with a burial. These are the facts.

Considering all of the above and observing the similarity of the structure of the labyrinths with the fishing structures of the “runaways” type, which were recently used on the Kola Peninsula, I see no reason that would make me refuse to explain them as magical structures associated with fishing. We can hardly go deeper than that. It is difficult to agree with those who associate the labyrinths of the North with their actual use for fishing purposes. These structures are never flooded by the sea and by themselves cannot serve as fishing tools, having a height of stones rarely more than 30 cm.

It is possible that the study of the settlements accompanying the labyrinths on the river. Varzina and Vyashchina will help to better understand the meaning of these mysterious monuments. Apparently, they should still be dated to the first centuries of our era. It is only necessary to remember that they are terrestrial structures, and their excavations by both amateurs and archaeologists will not provide any material, but can only permanently destroy these monuments.

Finally, it should be said that recently archaeological research has made it possible to shed some light on the later stages of the history of the ancient population of our North.

Historical data testify to the penetration of Russians into the Arctic since the 12th century, and possibly even earlier. However, until recently there has been no archaeological evidence for this. In 1969, our expedition to the river. Medieval Russian settlements were found in Varzuga, and two male burials, accompanied by a number of things (armchairs, arrowheads and other iron products), were found in a scattered mound. Of particular interest among them is a bronze lyre-shaped buckle, similar to the buckles found in the layers of the 11th-12th centuries. in Novgorod. Thus, the first physical evidence of the penetration of the Novgorodians into the Arctic was obtained. The discovered monuments will have to undergo research in the near future.

So even short review, made by us, testifies that the Kola Peninsula was mastered quite early by people - newcomers from the western and southern regions. Then its population was repeatedly replenished with immigrants from the south.

Radiocarbon and geological data allow us to speak about the absence of a large chronological gap between the stages of the primitive history of the Kola Peninsula and the more southern forest zone. Material materials obtained as a result of excavations testify to the originality of the culture of the ancient population of the region under consideration, to the relatively high development of their art. good example This is served by the most northern rock carvings in the Soviet Union of the Kola Peninsula and Chukotka, bone products from the Oleneostrovsky burial ground. All this allows us to conclude that the tribes that inhabited the regions of the Arctic for a number of millennia, even in its extremely difficult natural conditions, developed a universal culture with a peculiar expressiveness and made an important contribution to the development of the vast expanses of our country by man.

Concluding this brief review, I consider it necessary to emphasize one important circumstance - the need for careful protection of historical monuments. The danger threatening the archaeological sites of the Kola Peninsula is especially great. The vast majority of them, due to the specifics of stratigraphy (a weak soil-forming process, as a result of which they are covered with only a small soil layer), are easily destroyed by winds and exposed. Monuments are destroyed during construction work, become the property of tourists, replenishing private collections. And it should be remembered that these monuments are not multiplied. With their death, we are no longer able to restore a certain, sometimes extremely important link in the history of the people, especially since they do not have a written language. Naturally, life cannot be suspended, in connection with this, there is an urgent need to speed up work and take effective measures to protect monuments.

Hopefully the North Branch Geographic Society and the general public of the Kola Peninsula, which is characterized by an outstanding interest in the historical past of their region, will continue to provide effective assistance in the study of archaeological sites, thereby saving valuable national property, contributing to the restoration true history the peoples who once lived there.

LITERATURE

1. Goretsky G.I. Some data on the Neolithic sites of the Kola Isthmus. Tr. Soviet Section INQWA, no. III, 1937, p. 13-27.

2. Gurina N.N. Results of the archaeological survey of the southern coast of the Kola Peninsula. Short Posts Ying-ta history mat. culture, 1947. no. 21, p. 55-57.

3. Gurina N.N. Stone labyrinths of the White Sea. "Soviet Archeology", 1948, No. 10, p. 125-142.

4. Gurina N.N. Some information about the settlement south coast Kola Peninsula. "Soviet Archeology", 1950, No. 12, p. 47-51.

5. Gurina N.N. Neolithic settlements north coast Kola Peninsula. "Mat. and research. on archeology of the USSR”, 1951, no. 20, p. 143-167.

6. Gurina N.N. On the dating of the stone labyrinths of the White and Barents Seas. "Mat. and research. in Archeology of the USSR”, 1953a, No. 39, p. 408-420.

7. Gurina N.N. Monuments of the early metal era on the northern coast of the Kola Peninsula. "Mat. and research. in Archeology of the USSR”, 1953b, No. 39, p. 347-407.

8. Gurina N.N. The main stages of the ancient history of the Kola Peninsula according to archeology. Uch. app. Linen. state un-ta, No. 115. Faculty. Peoples of the North, 1960, no. 1, p. 38-56.

9. Gurina N.N. New research in the northwestern part of the Kola Peninsula. “Krat. Communications of the Institute of Archeology, 1971a, no. 126, p. 94-99.

10. Gurina N.N. Archaeological monuments of the Kola Peninsula. "Nature and Economy of the North", 1971b, no. 2, part 2. Apatity, p. 289-299.

11. Gurina N.N. Some data of new research in the European Arctic. “Krat. Communications of the Institute of Archeology, 1973a, no. 137, p. 80-88.

12. Gurina N.N. Ancient monuments of the Kola Peninsula. In: Ethnocultural communities of the forest and forest-steppe zone of the European part of the USSR in the Neolithic. "Mat. and research. in Archeology of the USSR, 1973b, no. 172, p. 45-53, tab. I-III.

13. Dikov N.N. Rock mysteries of ancient Chukotka. Magadan, 1971, p.1-129.

14. Durylin S. Behind the midnight sun. M., 1913, p. 1-118.

15. Eliseev A.V. About the so-called Babylons in the north of Russia. "Izv. Geographer. ob-va”, 1883, v. XIX, p. 12-16.

16. Zemlyakov B.F. Report on the work of the Kola expedition. Tr. Owls. section INQWA, vol. II, 1936, p. 54-61.

17. Zemlyakov B.F. Archaeological research on the coast of the Arctic Ocean. Tr. Soviet Section I NQWA, no. III, 1937a, p. 62-74.

18. Zemlyakov B.F. Arctic Paleolithic in the North of the USSR. Tr. Com. by studied. quarter period, issue 1. M.-L., 1937b, p. 69-87.

19. Zemlyakov B.F. Arctic Paleolithic in the North of the USSR. "Soviet archeology", 1940, V, p. 107-143.

20. Kelsiev A.I. Diary in letters to A.P. Bogdanov. A trip to the lopars. From the minutes of the meeting of the committee for organizing an anthropological exhibition. Anthropological exhibition, vol. 1. M., 1878, p. 245-246.

21. Linevskiy A.M. Petrographers of Karelia. Petrozavodsk, 1939, pp. 1-193.

22. Ravdonikas V.I. Rock carvings of Lake Onega and the White Sea. Ch. 1-2. M.-L., p. 1-205, tab. 1-82; 1938, p. 1-102, tab. 1-87.

23. Reva K.P. Report on excavations in the vicinity of the city of Arkhangelsk. Archive Len. otd. Institute of Archeology, No. 162, 1900

24. Savvateev I.A. Zalavruga. L., 1970, p. 1-442.

25. Schmidt A.V. Archive Len. otd. Institute of Archeology. D. Schmidt A.V. 1928.

26. Schmidt A.V. An ancient burial ground on the Kola Bay. Kolsky collection. L., 1930, p. 119-169.

27. Gurina N.N., Koshechkin V.I., Strelkov S.A.Prehistoric culture and the evolution of Ecological environment in the upper Pleistocene and Holocene in coastal regions of the European Arctic. Prehistoric man and Holocene, Moscow, 1973, p. 49-50.

Four main stages can be distinguished in the history of the Kola Peninsula. Firstly, before the Russians came to the Kola Peninsula, here, as in other areas, the indigenous people lived - the Sami.
Their main occupations were deer hunting, fishing, and berry picking. The Sami lived in huts with a flat roof - stupid, and huts made of deer skins - kuvaksah.

Secondly, in the XI-XII centuries, the first Pomeranian settlements appeared on the Kola land. Pomors hunted in the same way as the Saami, but rarely hunted. They lived in ordinary Russian huts with very narrow windows. This was done so that it was not cold. Pieces of transparent ice were inserted into such narrow windows. It melted and formed a strong connection with the logs.

As the name implies, Pomors settled along the seashore.
Pomors were mainly peasants who had fled from the feudal lords.

The third stage is the wars against the interventionists. Before and after the arrival of the Russians, the Sami were hampered by the Norwegians. The Saami had to fight with them. But after the Norwegians came the British. It was they who burned Kola, a fortress at the mouth of the Kola River, twice in the 17th and 18th centuries. The first mention of the fortress dates back to the 12th century.

The fourth stage is the history of Murmansk. The first prospectors came to Murman to explore new places in 1912. famous geographer F. Litke, who visited the bay, wrote that its shores in the southern part are covered with "birch and spruce groves."

Plans for a port city appeared in the 70s of the last century. Immediately after the construction of the city, it was named Romanov-on-Murman. And only after the revolution the city was given its current name.

Four wars - two world wars, civil, "winter" 1939-1940. - left their mark in the XX century on this earth. And yet the enemy was stopped on the outskirts of Murmansk. Three years later, in the autumn of 1944, an offensive began from this line, which became the beginning of the end of the fascist invasion of the Arctic. During the Second World War, only three houses remained from the city.

Today Murmansk is the largest port in the Arctic.

Administrative affiliation: Murmansk region (Murmansk)


Population of the Kola Peninsula: 842,452 people (as of 2009). National composition: Russians (85%), Ukrainians, Belarusians, Tatars, Azerbaijanis.


Language: Russian


Geography: The Kola Peninsula is located in the north-west of Russia, in the Murmansk region, and makes up about 70% of its territory. Almost all of it is located beyond the Arctic Circle, therefore, the Kola Peninsula is characterized by such phenomena as a polar day (from late July to mid-August) and a polar night (from late November to mid-January). Northern lights. For those who want to see this amazing natural phenomenon with their own eyes, we recommend visiting these lands at the end of December: the polar night and the northern lights - a non-trivial way to celebrate the New Year - will make your holiday unforgettable.


Climate and weather: due to the North Atlantic current, in the north of the peninsula, the climate is subarctic maritime; in the center, in the southwest and east, the climate is moderately cold, with an average monthly temperature in January of -8-14 ° C and the same, but with a plus - in the summer months; snow falls already in October, and completely disappears only by the beginning of June - at the same time, rivers and lakes open, and the peak of the flood is noted. Sometimes it snows even in summer. Cold nights persist until July, and in August swimming without a wetsuit is available only to those who think without shuddering about swimming in an ice hole. Summer on the Kola Peninsula is rainy and short: from June to August, and the beginning of June is still late spring, and the end of August is already early autumn. Strong winds blow on the coast, long snowstorms in winter.


Nature of the Kola Peninsula: Mountain ranges in the west are replaced by tundra, forest-tundra and taiga in the north of the peninsula, respectively, and the vegetation here is divided into three types: tundra, forest-tundra and forest. Mosses and lichens predominate in the tundra zone, dwarf birch and willow from trees, woody shrubs grow along large rivers. In the forest-tundra - birch, spruce, mosses, shrubs. In July-August, there are a lot of berries and mushrooms on dry, not swampy areas of the forest-tundra. The forest zone is heavily swamped, so low-growing shrubs, grasses and mosses predominate here. The fauna of the Kola Peninsula is diverse: bears, foxes, wolves, hares, martens, squirrels, elks, reindeer and other animals are found here. And because of the dampness in the forests, there is a lot of midges, therefore, when going to these parts, stock up on repellents and bite remedies.


Story: Evidence of human presence found on the territory of the Kola Peninsula suggests that people lived here already in the 8th-7th millennium BC, during the Arctic Paleolithic period: during this period, Scandinavian tribes began to migrate to the north. As a result of the mixing of the Caucasoid and Mongoloid races, a new Finnish-speaking people was formed here: Saami, which the neighbors called " Lapps».


In the 19th century, a railroad was built in Murman, connecting the Kola Bay with central Russia. During the First World War, the port village of Semenovsky was built here, which, under the blockade of Chernoy and Baltic Seas allowed to transport military cargo. In 1916, the settlement became a city and received the name Romanov-on-Murman, and immediately after the October Revolution in 1917 it was renamed to.


Today, the Murmansk region lives on fishing, metallurgy, mining and tourism.


Pyramids of the Kola Peninsula and Hyperborea


According to the results of some studies, it was on the Kola Peninsula that the famous hyperborea- a highly developed civilization that originated here 10-12 thousand years ago, had knowledge of nuclear energy and knew how to design aircraft. In the area, scientists at the beginning of the 20th century discovered hills resembling pyramids in structure. The Saami, who used these pyramids for ritual purposes, claimed that they were built in time immemorial. In 1998, during a research expedition on one of the slopes of the mountain Ninchurt well-built, but poorly preserved masonry of the wall was discovered. This and other traces of ancient civilizations raise more questions than they answer, but they confirm the theories of some ethnographers and historians about the origins of civilization.


Tourist routes on the Kola Peninsula:


  • Ski resorts: in the west of the peninsula there is a mountain range (up to 1200 m), which is popular with lovers skiing. The most popular ski resorts of Khibiny are, .

  • Water routes: on catamarans or kayaks you can lay interesting water routes along the rivers, , as well as on sea kayaks or a sailing catamaran on the seas and lakes.

  • Hiking trails and ecotourism: In recent years, the so-called "ecological tourism" has been gaining popularity on the Kola Peninsula: Russians and foreigners come here who want to "live in places where no man has gone before." (1100 m) - mystical and beautiful place on the Kola Peninsula east of the Khibiny, attractive for lovers of secrets, accustomed to the difficulties of hiking and mountain hiking.

  • Entertainment: Numerous tour operators on the Kola Peninsula offer a variety of snowmobile and quad bike tours, jeep safari, fishing, as well as horseback riding and hiking in the most remarkable places.

Excursion routes of the Kola Peninsula

Murmansk

Population: 299,148 people (as of 2009).


The capital and largest city of the Murmansk region. It is the largest city in the world among the cities located beyond the Arctic Circle. It is located in the bay of the Barents Sea, on east coast Kola Bay. The official founding date of Murmansk is October 4, 1916, when the temple of the patron saint of seafarers Nicholas Mir Lycian. Then the city was named Romanov-on-Murman, and he was destined to become the last city founded in the Russian Empire. After the October Revolution of 1917, the city was renamed Murmansk.


The city is located on four terraces. The highest point is a nameless hill on the outskirts (305.9 meters), the lowest is the shore of the Kola Bay.


What to see: Most of the sights of the city are on the theme of the Second World War, since a big milestone in the history of the city is associated with it. For example, Memorial "Defenders of the Soviet Arctic", consisting of a monument to a soldier 35 m high, which the locals affectionately call "Alyosha", anti-aircraft guns and eternal flame, located on Cape Zeleny near Lake Semenovskoye. Right there, on the lake, there is a wonderful city park with attractions. The first one moored here. Soviet nuclear icebreaker "Lenin", built in 1956-57. Also worth a visit Murmansk Oceanarium And Museum of Local Lore.


Be sure to visit Orthodox shrines: complex St. Nicholas Cathedral And Courtyard of the Trifonov Caves Monastery as well as white Church of the Savior on the Waters. Church Holy Great Martyr and Healer Panteleimon- an example of wooden sacral architecture. From the observation deck monumentCyril and Methodius set before art museum , offers a beautiful view of the seaport of Murmansk: do not be lazy to come here after sunset.


How to get there: in Murmansk there is a large Train Station, where trains arrive from Moscow, St. Petersburg, and others major cities Russia. In addition, Murmansk has an airport where regular flights arrive from Moscow and St. Petersburg.

Cola

Population: about 10,000 inhabitants (as of 2010).


Kola is a small town built to satisfy the military and trade needs of the Kola Peninsula. Once the city was inhabited only by warriors, fishermen, merchants and members of the brethren of the Kola-Pechersk Monastery. Although the city was founded in 1517, after the barbaric bombing of 1854, alas, almost nothing remained of it, and almost all the inhabitants left the city. The population of the city began to increase only at the beginning of the 20th century in connection with the construction of the Murmansk railway, the Murmansk port, and also in connection with the emergence of Murmansk itself.


What to see: Blagoveshchensky cathedral, within the walls of which priceless and unique treasures are stored: relief icons carved from wood and a wooden cross, which was installed in the 17th century on the coast of the Kola Bay.


How to get there: from Murmansk to Kola - 13 km, which can be covered by a rented vehicle or regular bus.

Kandalaksha

Population: 33,542 people (as of 2014).


A small town in the south of the Kola Peninsula. The first mention of the city dates back to the 11th century, but today there is nothing left of the village that once was here: in 1855 it was burned to the ground by the British. Kandalaksha received city status in 1938.


The famous Russian writer Venedikt Erofeev, author of the novel "Moscow-Petushki" (there is his museum) was born here. In the vicinity of Kandalaksha is located Kandalaksha Reserve, created to protect the colonies of seabirds in the White and Barents Seas.


The city is notable mainly for the fact that from here it is carried out to the most popular ones on the Kola Peninsula.


What to see: In Kandalaksha is held annually ski marathon, the length of which is 70 km. IN Museum of the history of the city there is an exposition of household items, documents and photographs, which can be used to trace the development of the city and its history.


How to get there: You can get there by train from Moscow and St. Petersburg along the Oktyabrskaya railway to the railway station of the same name.

Ski resorts on the Kola Peninsula

The Kola Peninsula is considered the birthplace of skiing: it is the Sami - the indigenous population of the Kola Peninsula - who are considered the inventors of skiing. Since the winters here are long, the ski season begins in mid-October and ends closer to April, and somewhere it lasts all year round. On the Kola Peninsula there are both regular ski slopes and slopes with the possibility of hiking or skiing. The relief of the Kola Peninsula is diverse and allows you to adjust the level of difficulty of the ski slopes, so here you can find both very gentle slopes suitable for training, and "wild" freeride trails with a virgin surface.


Khibiny- a mountain range located in the center of the Kola Peninsula between lakes Imandra And Umbozero. Khibiny is a volcano that never erupted: about 600 million years ago it went out, "squeezing out" a hill with a diameter of 50 km from its bowels. Khibiny is a unique array of flat high plateaus, without the sharp snowy peaks familiar to the eye. The highest point of the Khibiny Mount Yudychvumchorr: its height is 1200 m. There are more than 30 alpine lakes with crystal clear water in the Khibiny.


The climate in the Khibiny is slightly milder than in other polar regions due to the proximity of the Barents Sea and the warm current of the Gulf Stream. The Khibiny is characterized by long snowy winters and short cold summers. The average monthly temperature in July is +12°С, the temperature maximum is +22°С. Most cold month winters - January with an average monthly temperature of -11.5 ° C and a temperature minimum of -25 ° C. Thaws often occur in winter, and frosts often occur in early autumn and summer. In the mountains - high humidity (above 70%) and low atmospheric pressure, there are often thick fogs, drizzle, ice, heavy precipitation, large clouds and strong, gusty winds.


Khibiny is not the safest place on Earth for skiers: heavy snowfalls and strong winds often cause avalanches. However, there are several ski resorts with excellent marked trails, where everything has been done to ensure the safety of vacationers and all conditions for a comfortable outdoor activity have been created. Ski season in Khibiny lasts October to June, and in the hollows, where there is little sunlight, the snow never melts. However, due to changeable weather, the slopes are often closed, so skiers prefer to come here. March to May: during this period the weather is relatively stable.


Popular ski resorts Khibiny:,,.

Kirovsk

Kirovsk- city on the coast Lake Bolshoy Vudyavr where the main ski infrastructure Kola Peninsula. It is here that the best and long-loved mountain skiers are located. Kukisvumchorr(in the north) and the mountain Aikuaivenchorr(on South).


Aikuaivenchorr(1010 m) is better suited for beginner skiers and snowboarders: on its slopes there are many simple and at the same time beautiful slopes that will allow you to excess risk enjoy the descent.


The following ski resorts are located on Aikuaivenchorr:


  • Colasportland. 30 km of trails of varying difficulty, from 650 m to 1260 m long, many ski jumps. You can find a suitable track for both a beginner skier or snowboarder, and for a professional. There are 7 lifts on the slopes. Freeriders should be careful: there is an avalanche zone here.

  • Big Woodyavr. The total elevation difference on the slopes is 550 meters; there are trails for both beginners and professionals; there are 4 lifts. For beginner skiers there is a training slope with a separate lift.

  • Aiukai. The length of the tracks is from 2500 to 3000 m, the elevation difference is about 500 m, the slope is gentle; there are 2 lifts.

  • Khibiny Snow Park best suited for beginner skiers, children and those who are not looking for adventure, but just want to ride with the breeze. A gentle slope (elevation difference is only 30 m), and a small length of the track (200 m) will make you feel confident on the ski slope, and the ski lift will save you energy. There is also a ski school for children from 4 years old, and competitions among young skiers are often held. You can also ride here at night: the track is illuminated.

north mountain Kukisvumchorr, on the contrary, is ideal for professionals and experienced skiers who have already known the joy of this type of leisure and are looking for new experiences. The trails here are shorter than on Aikuaivenchorr, but the slope itself is much steeper, and the descent is more technical. Here, vacationers have 4 lifts, several long runs from 2,000 m to 2,500 m, as well as a 5 km freeride track.


The tourist infrastructure is well developed on the territory of all ski resorts in Kirovsk: there are hotels, shops, restaurants and cafes.


What to see: not far from Kirovsk, every year, as soon as the snow falls, enthusiasts erect "Snow Village"- the largest covered structure made of snow and ice. This is a gallery, consisting of many halls and rooms, which got into the Guinness Book of Records for its scope. Every year the Snow Village is getting bigger, and its architects come up with more and more new projects. So, for example, there is a bar, a fireplace hall, a cinema hall, and even the Ice Wedding Palace, where real ceremonies have already been held. Not far from the Snow Village is Polar Alpine Botanical Garden-Institute- one of the three world botanical gardens located beyond the Arctic Circle.


And lovers of the work of Venedikt Erofeev will certainly be interested in visiting Museum of Venedikt Erofeev who spent his childhood in Kirovsk and loved to return here in adulthood. The museum exposition includes archival materials and household items from the beginning of the Brezhnev era, and the tour is accompanied by the voice of Erofeev himself, reading his poem "Moscow-Petushki".


Mobile adventure center "Khibinium"- so that not only adults, but also children would be interested in a trip to the Arctic. Here you can ride a snowmobile and a quad bike, shoot from a bow and crossbow, and practice your climbing skills on rope rides.


How to get there: by bus or rented car from Apatit (about 30 minutes).

Apatity

Population: 57,905 people (as of 2009).


Apatity is located south of Murmansk, near the Khibiny, on the east coast Lake Imandra. Since 1916 - village White with the same name railway station. On July 7, 1966, the village received the status of a city and was renamed Apatity.


Near Apatit, in the village of Belorechensky, there is a relatively simple ski slope - Sparrow Mountain. Sparrow Hill will serve you well if the slopes of Kirovsk are closed due to bad weather, since the ski slope on Sparrow Hill passes through a forest belt, and you can often ride here even when skiing is prohibited on all tracks in Kirovsk. The length of the route is 550 m, the height difference is 80 m, there are two drag lifts.


What to see: among the attractions in Apatity it is worth highlighting Museum of Geology and Mineralogy. I.V. Belkova, which will certainly interest tourists who are not alien to geology. Here is one of the largest collections of minerals on the entire peninsula. Total number The exhibits presented in the museum exceed 1200 samples. City historical and local history exposition- history and culture of the city of Apatity. Within the walls of the exposition there are both permanent and temporary exhibitions. Art Gallery "M", founded by local artists, which is trying to present unusual exhibitions dedicated to important events in Russia: for example, the first exhibition was called "Painting during the Revolution". Here is located "Children's Gallery" where you can see children's paintings. Museum-archive of the history of the study and development of the European North of Russia will be of interest to historians, ethnographers and art critics, as well as to anyone interested in the history of the North.


How to get there: in Apatity there is a railway and an airport where regular flights arrive from Moscow and St. Petersburg.

Monchegorsk

Monchegorsk is located in the foothills of the massif Monchetundra on the shore Lake Imandra, in the ring of mountains Poazuaivench, Sopchuayvench and Nitis, in the heart of the Kola Peninsula.


Located in Monchegorsk sports and ski base "Lopar-stan", formerly known as Lapland. There is a natural virgin slope up to 1.5 km wide, on which there are 8 illuminated trails varying degrees difficulties, the length of which reaches 1200 m. The height difference is 260 m, there are 2 lifts, it is possible to rent equipment.


At the disposal of vacationers there are 2 hotels, 2 restaurants and several cafes.


How to get there: by bus from Murmansk or Apatit, or by train to Olenegorsk station, from where there is also a bus to Monchegorsk. From Apatit to Monchegorsk - 70 km, from Murmansk - 150 km, from Olenegorsk - 30 km.

Hiking trails on the Kola Peninsula

Lovozero tundra

The Lovozero tundra is a section of a mountain range in the west of the Kola Peninsula, located east of the Khibiny between umbozero And Lovozero. The Lovozero tundra mountain range is relatively small and covers an area of ​​only about 1000 sq. km. Highest point - mountain angvundaschorr(1120 m). In the center of the massif is a lake - Seydozero. The mountain range got its name from the Saami who lived here earlier, who called the flat rocky hills that rose above the forest "tundra", and the massif itself was called Lujavrurt. The age of this mountain range is approximately 350 million years. These are the most ancient mountains on our planet.


The Lovozero tundra, despite the eerie glory of these places, attract tourists and researchers here: there are a lot of completely mystical stories about unusual phenomena observed here and missing people, and ancient Sami legends only increase this interest. Somewhere here, according to the statements of travelers who visited these lands (among whom there are scientists), Bigfoot (yeti) lives in a parallel reality.


Route description: Depending on how long the path you are ready to overcome and how steep the mountain you intend to conquer, it depends on which point to start the route. The main entry points to Lujavrurt are four:


  • from the east (by boat along the Motka River from Lovozero)

  • from the northeast (along the Svetlaya River)

  • from the northwest (from the village of Revda through the Elmorajok pass)

  • and from the west (from the shift camp)

ATTENTION! In 2004, the Lovozero tundras became private property: they were taken on a long-term lease by the Piras Sami tribal community, which is engaged in reindeer herding and traditional farming here. This should be taken into account when planning the route, and the time of arrival, the duration of the trip and the route itself should be coordinated with the reindeer herders in advance.


How to get there: by bus or car from Apatit, Murmansk or Kirovsk to Olenegorsk, from where by car or bus to Lovozero (village Revda). Then - either through the pass on foot, or by private motor boat across the lake to another entry point.

Water routes of the Kola Peninsula

There are more than 100,000 rivers and lakes on the Kola Peninsula. The season for rafting is short here: from June to August, and some rivers (for example, and) are passable only in high water - in August there is nothing to do on them. In early June, it is cold and rainy here, the temperature can reach +10°C, with a good scenario +15°C, but it is better to prepare for the worst: take more warm clothes and stock up on serious tourist equipment(wetsuits, life jackets, helmets). In June, snowfalls and cloudy weather are quite possible, there are much fewer sunny days than rainy ones. There is more sun in August, but we would not recommend counting on spa vacation: more than + 20 ° C does not happen here in the most optimistic scenarios.


Almost all the rivers of the Kola Peninsula are not for beginners. Mostly sports crews and groups with instructors go here. Walking and fishing expeditions, as in Karelia, you will not find here. Those come here for whom Karelia is already a passed stage and their soul demands something more.

Umba

Deadlines: 5-7 days


Season: June August

Kolvitsa

Deadlines: 3-4 days


Season: June August


How to get there: along the Umba-Kandalaksha highway in a rented car. Often they are transferred here from Umba without dismantling the ships, but this requires a preliminary agreement with an adequate vehicle. You can also get from Umba by regular bus, but in this case the ships will have to be dismantled.


Optimal craft: catamaran, kayak



The length of the route is 10-12 km before it flows into the sea, so Kolvitsa is not very popular as a separate route, and almost always goes in conjunction with Umba: in the case of passing Kolvitsa separately from Umba, the effort and money spent on casting are not commensurate with the pleasure received.


The main obstacles on the route: the rapids Curve, Fisted, White, Black (4-5 category of difficulty), waterfall (5-6 category of complexity, depending on the water level).

Tumcha

Deadlines: 4-7-10 days


Season: June August


How to get there: by train to the city of Kandalaksha, from where you need to get to the Kovdor border checkpoint by another train or a rented car to check documents. It is advisable to have an itinerary book with you (issued and registered with your local qualification board) and full list groups with passport data. It is theoretically possible to start from Kovdor along the Tuntsayoki River (a tributary of the Tumcha), however, the border guards have repeatedly forbidden tourists to travel to the river, so it is better to plan a route from Alakurti, which can be reached by the same rented car. Alakurti is a closed town in which a military unit is located, and it is recommended to start below the village: all obstacles start after Alakurti.


ATTENTION! A little further down the river, near Alakurti, there is an excellent equipped parking lot for slipways, but we don’t recommend staying here for a long time: they steal.


Ejection - from the threshold of the "Hat", before the confluence of the Tumcha into the Iovskoye reservoir. From here, by boat (it always stays “laid up” in the season and meets everyone sailing with a bathhouse and cold beer) cross the Iovskoye reservoir and from the village where the boat will take you, you can get to Kandalaksha by rented car or regular bus. There are amateurs who cross the reservoir on oars in 2-3 days, spending the night on the picturesque islands.


Optimal craft: catamaran, kayak



The Tumcha is one of the most difficult rivers in the European North of Russia. The sports section - from the village of Alakurti to the confluence of the Tumcha with the Iovskoye reservoir - 50 km, on which there are more than 30 rapids of varying degrees of difficulty. There are no lakes on the route, there are many calm waters, but not tiring. The route is recommended for experienced athletes or strictly under the guidance of an experienced instructor. The peak of the flood is the first half of June, then the water level decreases, and the obstacles become less powerful and more technical.


The main obstacles on the route: rapids Pervenets, Padun, Double, Stony, Vodopadny-1, Vodopadny-2, Curve, St. George's Day, Rocky Eye, Hope, March, Nightmares, Beautiful, Evening, Pit, Cauldron, Cornice, Snake, Canyon, Hat.


At the peak of the flood (early June), sports teams often go to Tumcha in conjunction with the river and its tributary - .

r.r.Krasnenkaya, Kutsayoki

Deadlines: 3-5 days


Season: June, flood peak (first half of June). The route is impassable in low water.


How to get there: By Murmansk train to Kandalaksha station, from where by car to the slipway. The most popular sports route starts from the tributary of the Kutsayoki River - Krasnenkaya. The place of the slipway is "Devil's Bridge". The path is off-road, so an ordinary Gazelle, and even more so a passenger car, will not pass here.


Optimal craft: catamaran, kayak



The Krasnenkaya-Kutsajoki link is a highly technical and difficult route, where unprepared crews are absolutely not recommended to go. A fast current and powerful obstacles following one after another make the route potentially dangerous due to the complexity of organizing safety and rescue operations: if an inexperienced crew rolls over in one obstacle, they will inevitably be carried away into the next. This route requires excellent equipment preparation, rescue training, experienced and enduring crews and captains. Adding to the complexity of the river is a test of cold: the weather here in June is not at all summery.


Main obstacles on the route:


  • R. red: canyon Short, rapids Stony, Island, Jump, Cheeks, Caucasian, Gorka.

  • R. Kutsajoki: rapids Doubtful, Ant, B.S.T., waterfalls Oba-na and Mamanya, rapids Close, Stupenka.