Macht Frei - archive. northeast passage

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Northwest Passage(English) Northwest Passage listen)) is a sea route across the Arctic Ocean along the northern coast of North America through the Canadian Arctic Archipelago.

The famous Franklin Expedition (1845-1847) perished while trying to pass along the Northwest Sea Route. In search of the missing expedition, as well as in the study of this route, many famous sailors and explorers took part, in particular Edward Ingfield, John Ray, Francis McClintock.

The passage was first traversed entirely on water by Roald Amundsen in 1903-1906. Robert McClure, who passed it in 1850-1853, made part of the way on the ice and returned to England on a ship of another expedition.

In September 2007, the European Space Agency stated that over a period of about 30 years of satellite observations, the Arctic sea ​​ice dwindled to a minimum and this made the Northwest Passage navigable. The Canadian government has declared that the passage is within Canadian territorial waters. This statement was received ambiguously by the international community, which in turn may complicate future international shipping.

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Notes

Links

• / Lenta.ru, September 15, 2007
• (unavailable link since 30-09-2016 (891 days))
• (Graham Kendall), SeaExpo, 11/01/2010

An excerpt characterizing the Northwest Passage

The Northwest Passage is a sea route in the Arctic Ocean. It passes through the Canadian Arctic Archipelago and stretches along the coast of North America in its northern regions. With the help of it, two oceans are communicated - the Pacific and the Atlantic.

It is necessary to distinguish between the Northwest Passage and the Northern Sea Route. The second of them is the shortest of all connecting the Far East and the Russian Federation in its European part. The legislation of our country defines it as a national transport communication of the Russian Federation in the Arctic, which has developed historically.

Who discovered the Northwest Passage?

The search for a route that would allow passage by sea from Europe to Asia through the Arctic archipelago, which is located north of Canada, located on the mainland, began long ago, at the end of the 15th century. There have been many failed attempts.

Many of them are associated with considerable loss of life and disasters. Finally, in 1903-1906. it has been successfully completed. This was done by Roald Amundsen, a Norwegian researcher.

How it was?

With a small team of six, Amundsen set off on June 16, 1903. He left Christiania (Norway, modern Oslo) on a ship called "Joa". It was converted from a fishing boat and had a displacement of 47 tons. The ship passed to the western coast of Greenland, and then through the Baffin Sea headed for King William Island. The team lived on it for about two years, conducting scientific experiments. A sledge expedition was undertaken over unexplored northern regions, the length of which is approximately 1300 km.

Finally, on August 13, 1905, the ship "Yoa", having departed from King William Island, set off in a westerly direction. The next stop for the winter is King Point, located in northwestern Canada, on the north shore of the Yukon Territory. After wintering in the Arctic for the third time, Amundsen and his team resumed their journey on July 2, 1906.

On August 31, the expedition reached Alaska, to the city of Nome. They were the first sailors to successfully cross the Northwest Passage.

Finding the best path

In June 1940, a small motor schooner called Saint Rock set sail from the port of Vancouver in Canada, which is located on the Pacific coast. She had a displacement of 328 tons and was designed specifically for sailing in the northern seas.

This expedition, which consisted of eight people, was led by Henry Larsen, a policeman from Canada, of Norwegian origin. Before the war, he received the rank of inspector, and he was appointed the organizer of the Arctic detachments.

The St. Rock sailed along the coast of Alaska along the familiar route that fishermen and fur hunters used in northern waters. Having passed the Bering Strait, the ship entered the Amundsen Bay, the brave souls approached. The expedition arranged the first wintering in Walker Bay, on the northwestern coast.

Continuation of Larsen's expedition

Trying to find optimal route through the Northwest Passage, the expedition in 1941 made an attempt to go around Victoria Island from the north and pass through the strait that separates it from Banks Island. Travelers assumed that the waters in the Prince of Wales Sound would be somewhat freer than in the Dolphin Sound, but this was erroneous.

The Prince of Wales Strait was filled with heavy ice. Due to the difficult ice conditions, the sailors were forced to return. After that, the schooner headed along the mainland to the east. When Coronation Bay was passed, the ship was in the Victoria Strait.

Despite the most difficult navigational conditions, when the ice had already begun to bind the water, the Saint Rock approached the Butia Peninsula. Then Larsen went north and took refuge in Palsi Bay in early September. Here the second wintering was carried out, during which more severe conditions were observed than in the previous one.

The thermometer showed minus 57 degrees Celsius when one crew member died. The next year, due to the harsh winter, only in June did the waters get rid of ice, and the expedition moved forward.

Travel Success

After passing between Somerset Island and the ship through the Lancaster Strait, it reached the Baffin Sea. By and large, it could be stated that the expedition was successful. In October 1942, the St. Rock anchored in Halifax. This was the end of a journey that lasted 842 days. Success was achieved due to the fact that the choice of vessel, equipment and crew training were correct.

A reservation should be made: the leader of the expedition assessed its results very reservedly. He called it reconnaissance, the purpose of which was to lay the continuation of another Northern Sea Route. In the conditions of the Second World War this route was very significant. As Larsen said, his expedition proved the possibility of overcoming the Northwest Passage within one navigation, but this can not be done in any year.

Further development of the passage

From the results of the Larsen expedition, it was difficult to assess to what extent ships with a large draft could be used on this route. It wasn't until 1954 that the first commercial ship was sent through the pass. As global warming contributed to the melting of the ice, interest in the passage grew. So, several of his attempts were made:

• 1969 - a heavy supertanker with a capacity of 43,000 hp passed. With. and a displacement of 115,000 tons, with ice reinforcement. At that time it was the largest civilian ship United States, which was accompanied by two icebreakers.
• 1985 - an icebreaker assigned to the US Coast Guard crossed part of the passage from air base USA in Greenland (Tula) to its home port in Seattle.
• 1999 - Russian heavy dry cargo ship towed to the Bahamas.

Opened prospects

As stated in September 2007, over thirty years of satellite observations, the area of ​​sea ice in Arctic waters has decreased to a minimum level. As a result, shipping through the Northwest Passage became possible.

After that, the Canadian government announced that the passage was part of the territorial waters of Canada. The statement was met with mixed reception by the international community, which could negatively impact the future of international shipping.

Comparison of two paths

Today, as development progresses, the Northwest Passage is much less developed than the Northern Sea Route. Among the reasons for this situation are the following:

1. Far fewer people live in the Arctic region of Canada than in the Russian Arctic.
2. Canada does not have icebreakers that can navigate ships through the Northwest Sea Passage, unlike Russia.
3. Poor infrastructure development along the passage. For example, in such villages as Resolute and Cambridge, you can only get by air, while in the Russian Federation Murmansk is connected with St. Petersburg via railway.
4. In the Canadian Arctic, ice changes are not tracked for shipping purposes.
5. There is no clear definition of the route of the ships.
6. Climatic difficulties: The Northwest Passage is covered with much more ice, despite the fact that both routes are located at approximately the same latitudes.
7. On the Northern Sea Route there is the port of Murmansk, which is ice-free.

prospects

In August 2008 Peter Faber, a cable boat from Denmark, crossed the passage without difficulty. It is deeper than Panama Canal, and therefore may be accessible to more large ships. Today, several cruise ships sail along the passage with ice reinforcements. In September 2008, on cargo ship MV Camilla Desgagnes from Moneral delivered cargo to four locations in western Nunavut.

In addition to commercial shipping, the prospects for passage are associated with the discovery of new deposits. Iron ore is mined on Baffin Island for export to Europe. In addition, a port is being built in Coronation Bay for the needs of the mining industry.

A project has been developed to transport liquefied gas and oil from northern Alaska to refineries and US markets in east coast through the Northwest Passage. Its length from New York to Tokyo is 14 thousand km, and the path through the Panama Canal is 18.2 thousand km.

Northwest Passage

It was the kind of game that every imaginative child is ready to play all day long. Needed to find " northwest passage"to school. The road there was simple and familiar, but the game was to find some detour. You had to leave the house ten minutes early, turn somewhere to the side and make your way through unfamiliar streets to your goal .
HG Wells "Door in the Wall"

The rules for playing Northwest Passage are, as you can see, extremely simple. Not much is required of the player: to prefer unfamiliar paths to familiar ones and to have enough time to be able to move from theory to practice.

I read Wells' story of the game early, before I even went to school. And then he began to look for opportunities to play the "Northwest Passage". Opportunities were, frankly, very bad: a prisoner of my own court, forced to keep a screaming distance from my parents' windows, I didn't have the slightest chance to try the recipe.

However, in six months I had to go to the first class. I was lucky: the school was quite far from home, about twenty minutes on foot (which I managed to verify, because I had already gone there twice accompanied by my parents - to sign up for a preparatory class, and again, for the first lesson of this very preparatory class, from where I was miserably exhibited for the ability to read and write and an innate gift for disrupting lessons). However, my mother consoled me, saying that they would still accept me in the first class: they would not go anywhere, they say. I believed her and excitedly waited for the start of classes, anticipating in advance the daily trips to school and back. Every day is a new road, of course. I started the morning with the question: is the first of September coming soon? My parents were touched by my impatience; their acquaintances set me as an example to their children, so I quickly earned a reputation for being insane. I didn't care: I knew WHAT I expected from the school. Freedom of movement in space, and nothing else.

Everything turned out the way I envisioned. After walking me to school about five times, my mother appreciated the pointlessness of this lesson and quite easily agreed that I was already quite capable of getting there alone. The first few trips to school and back I made along the well-trodden route in order to better get used to it. When for the first time in your life you start walking around the city alone, there are no "familiar" and "usual" ways. At first.

The first deviation from the route, I allowed myself about a week later. As advised by H. G. Wells, I left the house early. Overcame half of the way as in a dream, fading from sweet horror: now, now! Finally turned into an unfamiliar lane. Into an alley that I've never been before. My heart was pounding: I learned the value of the word "for the first time." Turning back, I did not recognize the street along which I had just walked, and I almost screamed in horror. However, after a few seconds, I realized that everything was in order with the street, I just had never looked at it from such an angle. Fear was replaced by delight; I walked resolutely down an unfamiliar lane. Then he turned and turned again. I made a small loop, returned to the familiar street and went on in the usual way. A small feat, however, dashing trouble is the beginning!

After a couple of months, I knew several dozen ways from home to school. I had two game mates with whom I could compete (of course, three players are not enough, however, most of our peers moved around the city under escort; we sympathized with them indulgently). Over time, we began to write down the names of streets and alleys where we wandered, and the numbers of houses near which we should turn off, so that later everyone could try out other people's routes. Even later, they learned to draw diagrams. By the beginning of classes in the second grade, my comrades had noticeably cooled down to the game, and I could no longer stop, I was taken apart by real excitement. I signed up for almost every possible club that required me to stay at school after school: since the classes did not last from bell to bell, but depending on the mood of the teacher, my parents could no longer require me to come home at a fixed time. This gave about half an hour of freedom a day: half an hour, during which at school they knew that I had already gone home, and at home they thought that I was still at school. Half an hour of freedom a day is not so little: in half an hour an experienced player in the "Northwest Passage" usually manages to find a new route where it does not exist and cannot be (for example, to get into a parallel street by courtyards, breaking the locks on the gates, crawling under barbed wire and overcoming wooden fences).

If you think that I’m going to write now that, say, childhood is over, I became an adult busy (read: bald, pot-bellied, boring) person, I forgot my favorite game, and all that, then you still didn’t study me well. I'm just about to write that for an adult, playing the Northwest Passage is not just a pleasure, but a vital necessity. This is much more necessary than a sauna, a gym and a massage (which, however, are not very useful). Because the roads that we travel daily, no matter how diverse they may seem (home - service - coffee shop - shop - second place of work - club - night supermarket - home) gradually wear out under our feet. Continuing to walk familiar routes, we only increase the fatigue of the roads, and it envelops our own feet in sticky dust. Fatigue and boredom are far more dangerous diseases than it seems to those who have not yet realized that they are starting to age, and playing Northwest Passage is an excellent homeopathic remedy, suitable for both treatment and prevention.

As recently as the day before yesterday, I left the house on quite urgent business. But instead of going out and hailing a taxi, I turned into a courtyard, went out onto a parallel street, crossed several more courtyards, wandered into a parking lot, from there to the fence of some institute, from there onto a strange narrow highway surrounded by low industrial buildings. sight, then I climbed over a low wire fence, climbed a hill and squatted in surprise when I heard the whistle of an approaching train ... The gravel on the railway embankment was warm, like the skin of a living creature; plantain grew between the sleepers; the branches of the bush swayed under the weight of the tits.

My phone rang in my pocket: one of my colleagues wanted to make sure I hadn't forgotten about the meeting. "Yes, I'm on my way to you," I yelled, trying to block the roar of the rapidly approaching freight train. The roar was also heard "at the other end of the air." "Are you on the train?" - "No, I'm walking along the sleepers," I said honestly. "I'm playing the Northwest Passage. Do you want me to teach you?"

Navigation in the Northwest Passage has claimed the lives of many fishermen and Arctic explorers. The legendary sea route along the coast of North America cuts through coastal ice, pack ice and past icebergs, and even today it is an exciting adventure.

Soon after Christopher Columbus in the 15th century, navigators began to make the first daring attempts to go around New World from the north to find a sea route to East Asia. At the beginning of the 16th century, in terribly difficult conditions, navigators-explorers, among whom were Corte Real Gaspar and Sebastian Cabot, reached the Canadian arctic archipelago. However, all attempts to find a way in the labyrinth of narrow straits and endless fjords failed, as the path was invariably blocked by impregnable blocks of drifting ice floes. Even in the 19th century, the fate of the ill-fated expedition led by the English explorer John Franklin did not discourage other adventurers.

The decade-long search for the missing Franklin expedition marked a new contribution to research Far North. The first to prove the existence of the Northwest Passage was the Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen. Having at his disposal a tiny ship and a small crew, in the period from 1903 to 1906 he successfully sailed along north coast American continent. However, even after the passage was conquered, this place still represented great danger for sailors. Only in 1942, the second expedition led by Henry Larsen on the schooner "St. Rock" managed to sail along the passage, but this time in the opposite direction - from west to east. Today, thanks to the latest navigation equipment, travel can be considered relatively safe. True, however, and now no one can guarantee that the voyage will take place strictly according to a pre-planned route. First cruise ship passed through the Northwest Passage in 1984.

The Northwest Passage never became an important maritime trade route, because the weather here is still unpredictable, and the navigation season here is limited to only a few weeks a year, although the use of this sea route has become a great help to the mining industry in the Arctic regions of Canada. However, the Northwest Passage is now used only by those who work at the Polaris field on Bathurst Island.

For local residents Far North, the arrival of a ship is an exceptional event; and although roads do not link this region with southern parts Canada, settlements are no longer as cut off from the rest of the mainland as they used to be. Nearly all Inuit research stations and settlements have air links with southern regions Canada. Thanks to modern technologies traveling around the Arctic region has become much easier, but the magical landscape, the feeling of loneliness and peace have remained unchanged, which is what makes these places look so beautiful. After all, the shining surface of coastal ice in estuaries and fjords, as well as bizarrely shaped icebergs or heaps of ice floes, are forever imprinted in the memory. But even today life in the regions of the Far North is still extremely difficult. The main danger is the inhospitable climate. In winter, the temperature often drops to -40℃ and below. And even in May, when the sun is high above the horizon, the thermometer rarely rises above zero.

The cruise starts from the coast of Greenland towards the Arctic regions of Canada - it was from there that Roald Amundsen set sail through the Northwest Passage. Then the route continues along the coast of Alaska and ends at the Aleutian Islands, on the border with Russia.

Information for tourists:
Length: approximately 2500 km.
Duration: about 4 weeks
Route map: Kangerlussuaq, Sisimiut, Ilulissat, Upernavik, Pond Inlet, Dundas Harbor, Beachy Island, Resolute, Franklin Sound, Cambridge Bay, Ross Point, Holman Island, Barrow, Point Hope, Diomede Islands, Nome, Gambell, St. Paul, Dutch Harbor, Col Bay.
Note to tourists: The Northwest Passage here can only be explored by joining a cruise.
When to go: The Northwest Passage is only open for navigation for a few weeks during the summer, and even during this time, cruise lines due to weather conditions and glaciers are often forced to change it. Be prepared for swarms of mosquitoes if you're going on day trips to the tundra in the summer, and don't forget to bring insect repellant with you. It's also a good idea to stock up on windproof clothing with a high collar to ensure maximum comfort.
Tourist information:

• www.greenland-guide.gl (Greenland Tourist Guide);
• www.hl-cruises.com (Hapag-Lloyd cruises);

1. Kangerlussuaq. The largest airport in Greenland is located in this town, it is here that most tourists arrive. The Arctic island cruise starts at the Kangerlussuaq Fjord, which stretches for about 170 km. Then the route passes numerous glaciers, which, thawing, fall into the estuary. Descending from the Greenland ice sheet, they, rushing to the water, cut the road to the fjord deep in the rocks.

2. Sisimiut. When a cruise ship comes to the mouth of the fjord, the route turns to the north and stretches along the rocky coast. You will cross the Arctic Circle, and soon the town of Sisimiut will appear on the horizon. The fish factory and refrigeration warehouses around the port eloquently testify to the main occupations of the local population. A separate export item is Greenland crab meat, which is supplied to almost all countries of the world. Back in the 18th century, Dutch whalers established a small base here, however, as did the Norwegian Lutheran missionary Hans Egede in 1724. The settlement that exists here today, whose original name is Holsteinborg, appeared four decades later under the patronage of Count Ludwig Holstein. The emergence of the city brought with it a major change in the traditions and way of life of the local population, and now most Inuit enjoy the comforts of modern civilization.

3. Ilulissat. This town, formerly known as Jakobshavn, which means "Jacob's harbor" in Danish, is the third largest in Greenland and one of the most popular tourist ports. Ilulissat (meaning "icebergs" in the Inuit language) is a very appropriate name for this locality, as the surrounding landscape is dominated by snow-white giants slowly drifting out of the fjords into Disko Bay. The Greenland ice sheet, which in places reaches a thickness of 3 km, ensures an uninterrupted supply of ice. Due to its own gravity, the ice block slides into the fjord by inertia, and when the tongue of the glacier reaches open waters bay, it splits and icebergs form.

4. Upernavik. The urban appearance of Upernavik (“Spring Place”) is formed by several small groups of buildings huddled around the steep cliffs of the north west coast Greenland. About three thousand inhabitants live here. The main settlement is located on one of the many small rocky islands just off this part of the coast. The landscape around Upernavik, especially the cliffs in the Apparsuit area, provides an excellent opportunity to observe the local nature: reindeer and musk ox live in the tundra of the Svartenhooken peninsula. The landscape to the north of Upernavik seems even wilder, here the glacier breaks directly into the sea. For the inhabitants of Upernavik, the sea is the main source of food. Even today, most of the families living here make a living from fishing and seal hunting. The northernmost museum in the world, located under open sky, opened in the building of the former trading post of Upernavik. Here, tourists can learn about the history of the emergence and development of the city and the traditional life of the Inuit.

5. Pond Inlet. Further, the route continues along the narrow Pond Inlet to the settlement of the same name in the north of Baffin Island. Here, along the Eclipse Strait, you will cross the Canadian border for the first time. The name of the village of Mittimatalik founded just a few decades ago is associated with the name of an English astronomer and means "the place where Mittima is buried", and "Pond" is already the Inuit name of the same place. Of the 1,300 inhabitants of the village, Inuit make up the majority. At the beginning of the 20th century, a whaling factory was founded here, which was abandoned just a few years later. Despite the inhospitable climate, people have lived in the area around Pond Inlet for at least four thousand years. Archaeologists have found traces of both the Dorset culture and the later Thule culture here. In 1929, two missionary organizations appeared here - Anglican and Catholic - simultaneously began to spread Christianity in the region. As is the case with most communities in the Arctic, detached houses in Pond Inlet are simple and functional. However, this simplicity makes the village, nestled against the backdrop of spectacular impregnable mountains, even more memorable. Closer to the south of the island, mountain peaks reach a height of more than 1500m, and to the north in the direction of Bylot Island, visible in the distance, the mountains become even higher, up to 2000m. Both in Eclipse Bay and nearby Pond Inlet, which separates Bylot from Baffin Island, icebergs and sea ice drift even during the summer months. You will not only be mesmerized by the Arctic landscape itself, but you will also enjoy watching unique nature estuaries, in the waters of which there are beluga whales, narwhals, bowhead whales, sometimes even sperm whales and killer whales swim here. Among the others marine mammals- walruses and various types of seals, including ringed seals. Most of Bylot Island is occupied by national park Sirmilik, founded in 1999. But more island known as a bird sanctuary: hundreds of thousands of thick-billed murres and kittiwakes nest on the rocks, and there is also a large population of Atlantic blue geese. For bird and whale watching, separate excursions are organized from Pond Inlet, for lovers of fishing - boat fishing, and in spring snowmobiling and dog sledding. Find out more about the bird sanctuary at Bylot Island and national park Sirmilik, as well as tourist center Nattinak in Pond Inlet.

6 Dundas Harbor The route continues along the rocky west coast of Bylot Island between the narrow glacial plateaus of the Navy Bod Inlet to the north of the Lancaster Strait, which is the main gate of the Northwest Passage (at this point its width reaches 80 km.). The depth here rarely exceeds 300m, so that part of the route where it reaches 1000m is the deepest section. Then the path lies to the town of Dundas Harbor, which is located almost at 75º north latitude at southeast coast Devon Island, the largest uninhabited islands peace. The Royal Canadian Mounted Police opened here in 1924 military base within the framework of government policy to curb the activity of foreigners, however, in 1932. the base was abandoned. In 1934 Inuit families were moved to the island, but in 1936. they decided to leave, considering the living conditions here too harsh. The sovereignty of Dundas Harbor is still disputed. In the area north of Dundas Harbor, the height of the mountains reaches 1900m, and here they are completely covered with glaciers. IN coastal areas archaeologists have found evidence of prehistoric settlements of the Dorset and Thule cultures. Dundas Harbor is the perfect place to learn more about the nature of the Arctic. Walruses and seals on the coast, musk oxen on land seem to be waiting to be photographed, but one must always be careful, especially when meeting polar bears.

7 Beachy Island This island in Wellington Sound was discovered in 1819. English explorer of the Arctic, William Edward Parry. And it got its name in honor of Frederick Williams Beachy, an officer from the Parry team. Beachy Island has played an important role in the history of Canadian Arctic exploration. In 1845 English navigator and Arctic explorer John Franklin decided that the well-protected port of the island - perfect place for the anchorage of the ship in the first winter of his expedition, which ended tragically. When in 1851 a rescue party arrived here, on the shore they discovered the graves of three members of the ship's crew, marked with stones, but so far nothing is known about the fate of the rest of the crew. In the 1980s, the remains of three polar explorers, quite well preserved in permafrost conditions, were exhumed and subjected to scientific study. It suddenly turned out that people died, apparently from lead poisoning: the cans with which they ate for many months were made of poorly processed lead. In 1979 The government of the Northwest Territories declared Beechey Island a site of natural and historical significance. Today, like most of northeast Canada, the island belongs to the territory of Nunavut, founded in 1999. Today, the graves of three sailors are the most visited place by tourists.

8. Resolute. Founded on Cornwallis Island in the northern part of Resolute Bay, the settlement of the same name is one of the northernmost settlements on the planet, about 250 inhabitants live here, mostly Inuit. There is a fairly large airport serving the Arctic part of Canada. This town is named after the Resolute ship, but of the many ships that took part in the search for the missing Franklin expedition, the Resolute was locked in ice for two winters, and in order to avoid a third wintering in polar night and cold conditions, Captain Belcher took the decision to abandon ship and the crew returned to England aboard a rescue ship. The Resolute was found in fairly good condition by American whalers in 1855, who freed it from pack ice. Resolute is home to important meteorological and research stations. The Canadian government took over the management of the original Inuit settlements only in the 1950s and 1960s. Today, in addition to the Inuit, scientists and engineers live here. In the 1960s and 1970s on the nearby island of Bathurst, 150-200 km. west of Resolute, the north magnetic pole was discovered. Thanks to this, the town has become a base for research expeditions that set off to study the Earth's magnetic field. Since then, the magnetic pole has moved north past 80º latitude, but meteorologists still work in Resolute, where geophysical surveys are carried out, the biennial Polar Race and the annual Polar Challenge, during which several teams simultaneously trying to reach the north magnetic pole. Resolute is also considered an important transport hub, because it provides the functioning of the Polaris field on Bathurst Island. For some time it was the northernmost in the world of the developed deposits of lead and zinc ores, until it was recognized as unprofitable in 2003. closed.

9. Franklin Strait. This strait got its name in honor of the explorer John Franklin, who led an expedition to the islands of the Canadian part of the Arctic in 1845. Franklin's ships Erebus and Terror, under the command of Captains James Fitzjames and Francis Crozier, were seen by whalers north of Baffin Island, but soon the ships were lost among the drifting ice. Several rescue parties were sent in search of the missing expedition, but nothing was known about their fate until 1989, when the diary was found. It turned out that Franlin and his crew spent their first winter near Beachy Island and then sailed through Peel Sound and Franlin Sound. In September 1846 the ships were once again trapped in the ice in the Victoria Strait. Heading south on foot, all members of the expedition died. The route continues past King William Island. At the Northwest Passage Nature and History Park near Yon Haven, learn about the history of exploration of the pass and the surrounding area. Gorodoak was named after the ship "Joa", on which Roald Amundsen first sailed through the Northwest Passage in 1903-1906. Amundsen account this place is ideal for bright parking and conducting research on the Earth's magnetic field. Also in the park, everyone can get acquainted with the life and work of the famous polar explorer, who spent almost three long winters here.

10. Cambridge Bay. The village was named in honor of Prince Adolf, Duke of Cambridge, it is also called Ikaluktutiak ("place of many large fish"). It is located on the south coast of Victoria Island and, thanks to its convenient harbor, is perfect place for parking of ships. Over time, the small settlement, where about 1,500 inhabitants, mostly Inuit, lived, turned into a center of arts and crafts. At Nunavut College fine arts even courses have been set up to study the art of the Inuit, where not only local residents, but also tourists can study. This place is also famous for its jewelry. They are mainly made from local ornamental stones (serpentine) and bones of marine mammals. Traditionally, the Inuit used copper, but today they use other metals as well as modern materials. In the vicinity of the village of Cambridge Bay, the ruins of ancient Inuit settlements built of stone and earth have been preserved, they are also called "karmak". However, among the sights of the bay itself are the remains of the Maud ship, named after the Queen of Norway and later renamed Bay Maud. This ship was specially built for Amundsen's second Arctic expedition in 1925. sold to the Hudson's Bay Company, and in 1930. flooded. Since 1947, a lighthouse has provided security at the entrance to the waters of the bay. In the 1920s, the Hudson's Bay Company trading post and a small police station in Cambridge Bay became a Canadian outpost in this part of the Arctic region. The Inuit who had previously lived in these areas did not begin to settle again until after the 1950s. Cambridge Bay is a great place to learn about the unique flora and fauna of the Arctic. And if you decide to ride through the hills in off-road vehicles, you will have a unique opportunity to see entire herds of musk oxen.

11. Ross Point. Further, the path lies west along the southern coast of Victoria Island, through Dees Strait and Coronation Bay. If you get a chance to disembark at Ross Point, take a little walk. Here you will have unique chance enjoy wildlife tundra in its pristine beauty. The most imposing animal in these parts is the musk ox. If you are lucky, you will see whole herds of these giants.

12. Holmen Island. After another 250 km. you will find yourself in Amundsen Bay. This marks the end of the most difficult section of the Northwest Passage. This is the border between the Inuit territory of Nunavut and the Northwest Territories. The community of Ulukhaktok is the place where the northernmost golf course on the planet is located, as part of a specially organized tournament in the summer, international competitions are held here. Holmen Island has become a real Mecca for artists, they are especially attracted by traditional types of printed graphics - lithography, engraving, printmaking, linocut, which reproduce the symbolic motifs of the Arctic world. Dancing and drumming also play an important role in the life of Ulukhaktok. Before the current legacy was founded, a trading post functioned here. In Reed Island, you can still visit the buildings that have survived from that time.

13. Herschel Island. The route continues along the vast Amundsen Bay in the Beaufort Sea, passing the Mackenzie Delta and approaching Herschel Island. On the coast you can often see a lot of trees thrown ashore, which come here from the forested regions of Canada through the Mackenzie channel, are used for construction and heating, since wood is rare in these places. The local name for Herschel Island is Kwiqiktaruk, which means "this is an island" in the Inuit language. Although the island is small - its area is only a few kilometers - it is reliably sheltered from winds and bad weather. The port is regularly visited by whaling and research ships, and thanks to the long-standing Inuit settlement here, this port has become a real center for supplying the island with all the necessary goods.

14. Barrow. The meridian line 141º west longitude the route crosses near Barrow, a town located 80 km. west of Herschel Island. This is the border between Canada and Alaska. Crude oil prospectors began to appear in Prudhoe Bay as early as the 1940s, but exploitable deposits were discovered only in 1967. Crude oil is pumped to the city of Valdez on the south coast of Alaska through a nearly 1,300 km long pipeline, which was completed in 1977. Barrow is an important supply center for the region's oil fields. During the summer, when the pack ice briefly recedes from the coast, ships can enter the port and bring in goods and food for the city's residents. And about 15 km. north of Barrow is Cape Barrow, or Nuvuk, the northernmost point of the United States, the starting point of many expeditions to explore Aktika. The first mention of these places dates back to 1576, when pioneer settlers arrived here to challenge the harsh climate.

15. Point Hop. This small town located on a cape that cuts from the western side into the Chukchi Sea. Local attractions include original indigenous cult objects carved from whalebone. From here the route continues south Bering Strait, which, like the Bering Sea, the island, the glacier and Beringia, got its name in honor of Vitus Jonassen Bering (1681-1741), who explored the area. Cape Prince of Wales, the westernmost tip of the American continent, is only 100km away. from Cape Dezhnev, eastern point Asia.

16. Diomede Islands. This is the meeting place of two superpowers - Russia and the United States. Two rocky islands - the American Small Diomede and the Russian Big Diomede - are separated by only 3 km. This is the only place where the border of the territories of the two states passes. The demarcation time line also bisects the strait between the two islands.

17. Nom. This city played an important role in the history of Alaska during the gold rush. When in 1898 gold was discovered in nearby Anvil Creek, word of the discovery quickly spread, and prospectors from all over the world began to arrive. Today, Nome is best known as the final destination of the Iditarod dog sled race, held in memory of the dog sled that in 1925. delivered a shipment of vaccine to Nome that helped end the diphtheria epidemic among the Inuit.

18. Gambell. Located on the northwestern tip of the island of St. Lawrence, Gambell was almost completely settled by the Yuits, or Asian Eskimos, the indigenous inhabitants of the northeastern part of Russia.

19. St. Paul's Island. This is one of the four Pribylov Islands located in the Bering Sea between Alaska and Siberia. It has a volcanic origin, and therefore the island is, in fact, a feeding ground for seabirds and seals. The Pribylov Islands are inhabited by the Aleuts, whose original possessions also include the Aleutian Islands and the Shumagin Islands, as well as the western part of the Alaska Peninsula.

20. Dutch Harbor. This small settlement is located on the Aleutian island of Amaknak and is connected by a bridge to the nearest island, Unalashka. It is worth visiting the Russian Orthodox Church in Unalaska, which is a testament to those times when Alaska was still part of Russian Empire. In those days, Russian fur hunters founded a settlement on the island, conquering indigenous people. The missionaries of the Russian Orthodox Church arrived here later and in 1825. built their first church here. Despite some remoteness from the whole world, the events of the Second World War also affected the Aleuts. While the United States sought to protect the islands by organizing the construction of military bases, they were unable to prevent Japanese fighter raids, and on the morning of June 3, 1942. Japanese aircraft raided Dutch Harbor.

21. Cold Bay. From Unalashka, the journey continues along Krenitsyn Island and leads us to Unimak Island, the largest in the Alutian archipelago. Pavlova volcano rises above the bay at 2862m, and its peak is often enveloped in fog. Like the islands of this region and the vast expanses of Alaska, Unimak has been declared a national reserve. Here you can meet many representatives of the North American fauna, from huge brown bears to silver foxes. And the local airport is considered an important transport hub, and the development of this town is directly related to it. It was built during World War II to strengthen the defenses of this remote part of the United States and prevent Japanese air raids. At that time, the port was also used as a transit point for the transportation of goods from the United States to Soviet Union. Today, Cold Bay is inhabited mainly by airport employees, military observers and employees meteorological station. Cold Bay, surrounded by small islands and famous for its rocky coast, replete with grottoes and creeks, perhaps can be attributed to the most beautiful and memorable parts of Alaska. Over the past two hundred years, the Pavlova volcano has erupted about forty times, and today it is the most active. active volcano Alaska. The Izembek National Reserve is a real paradise for animals, even wild geese live here and stop migratory birds. The participants of the cruise along the North American part of the Arctic, full of new experiences, end their journey in Col Bay. From here most of passengers returning to the mainland are already on the plane.

J. Franklin was already 60 years old when he left London in 1845 at the head of a large expedition of 129 people. Already famous sailing ships Antarctic expedition James Ross were converted into screw steamers and placed at his disposal. The Erebus was commanded by the head of the expedition, and the Terror was commanded by the experienced polar navigator Francis Crozier, who sailed in the Arctic with Parry and in the Antarctic with James Ross.

Passing north along the western coast of Greenland, the ships entered Baffin Bay. And this is the only thing known about them. No further information about the expedition was received. So three years passed, and the government sent several rescue boats, which could not find anything. For the salvation of at least one of the members of the expedition, a reward of twenty thousand pounds was appointed, half of this amount - for reliable information about the fate of the Franklin expedition. Dozens of ships participated in these searches, but for a long time no traces were found, although almost all the straits, bays and bays of the Canadian Arctic Archipelago were examined. Finally, cairns (gurii) were discovered in various places; under one of them in the spring of 1859 (fourteen years after the disappearance of the expedition) was found the last report of Franklin. By this time, quite a lot of finds of traces of the expedition had already accumulated: the remains of camps, various abandoned things, graves and skeletons of the dead.

Based on all these finds, the course of events has been restored, but only until 1848. After Baffin Bay, the ships passed Lancaster Strait. While the Terror remained at the southern entrance to the Wellington Strait between the islands of Cornwallis and Devon, Franklin and the Erebus moved on, but the ice did not let him out of the strait, and he, having rounded Cornwallis Island, returned to the Terror, prepared for wintering near Beachy Island. Three people died this winter. In autumn, when the ice cleared the way, the ships traveled about 250 km along the Peel Strait, leading south. Along the way, Prince of Wales Island was discovered. Behind the strait, which later became known as the name of Franklin, a wide expanse of water opened up. However, the ships could not use it - already at the beginning of the second decade of September they were frozen into the ice, being a few miles from King William Island.

The second wintering claimed the lives of twenty participants in the voyage: they were mowed down by scurvy caused by poor-quality products. As the winter drew to a close, eight men walked across the ice to King William Island and piled houris there with a note describing the expedition's route. Upon their return, these people did not find Franklin alive: having become seriously ill, he died on June 11, 1847. Off King William Island, the third wintering took place, by the end of which no more than a hundred people remained alive. The two legendary ships were abandoned off the west coast of King William, and the people went south, harnessed to a sleigh with a large boat mounted on them. (Subsequently, two bays along these coasts will be called Erebus and Terror.)

People went south, harnessed to a sledge with a boat mounted on them. They didn't need her. Their path along King William Island is literally lined with dozens of corpses. Strongly knocked together coffins at the beginning of the journey are replaced by hastily knocked down ones, and then the dead were no longer buried - the skeletons lie without coffins. The last traces of the tragedy are on the small island of Aleleid, where the wreckage of a boat and a pile of bones were found, and at the mouth of the Back River, the Eskimos found the last forty skeletons.

Search work began in the spring of 1849, James Ross and a Scottish naval officer, Francis McClintock. During the winter, they sleighed around the northern coast of Somerset Island and through the Peel Strait saw the eastern coast of Prince of Wales Island.

New islands, straits, bays were discovered by subsequent expeditions. But William Kennedy and Rene Bello did especially important discovery: they reached on a sleigh the northern tip of the American mainland - the Boothia Peninsula and proved that the wide Franklin Strait separates it from the island of Prince of Wales, the southernmost in the Canadian Arctic archipelago.

The entire third expedition of John Franklin, sent by the British Admiralty to continue the search for the northwest passage in 1845, perished. But a decade-long series of rescue expeditions led to significant discoveries in the north. American continent. Including those that contributed to the opening of the northwestern sea passage to the Pacific Ocean from the east.

Four centuries ago, the epic search for this path began. Dozens of ships, hundreds of people took part in it, many victims were brought, and more than once the most authoritative polar explorers stated: it is impossible to pass through the labyrinth of the straits of the Canadian Arctic Archipelago, constantly clogged with ice. By the end of the 18th century, a chain of straits leading to the Northern Arctic Ocean or even to the Bering Strait. It remained only to make this passage and practically prove its possibility. This is what the young Norwegian Roald Amundsen decided to do. He was in his thirtieth year and had just returned from Antarctica, where he had been navigator on the Belgica and participated in the first Antarctic wintering aboard that ship.

R. Amundsen is carefully preparing for the expedition, which, apparently, must be difficult, long and dangerous, given the experience of previous expeditions, some of them ended tragically. Amundsen would become famous for the fact that none of his expeditions, however difficult they were, had no casualties. Except for the last one, where he himself became the victim.

But so far, only his second expedition (the first is his own) has begun. Having traveled to many shipyards, Amundsen chose a small yacht "Joa" (with a displacement of only 47 tons). For twenty years she went fishing off the coast of Norway and for seals in polar waters. The yacht was the same age as Amundsen - built in 1872.

In the spring of 1901, Amundsen tested the Gjoa in seal hunting between Svalbard and Greenland, making a series of oceanographic observations according to a program drawn up by Nansen. The necessary "finishing" of the vessel was made, but that was it personal funds Amundsen. I had to borrow money, take out a loan for the future opening of the northwest passage. He himself lived extremely modestly. In Hamburg, where he lived and worked at the Neumeier Observatory, he rented a cheap room in the attic and spent the minimum on food. In the last days before sailing, a state loan was also received - 40 thousand crowns. With exceptional care, Amundsen rebuilt "Joa", himself participating in the work as a carpenter. Food was purchased for five years, and first-class scientific equipment was purchased. And suddenly in one newspaper there is an article under the heading "Does Norway need new skeletons among the icy deserts?". “Joa is a miserable vessel, and its captain is a frivolous person ...” - it was said in it.

The article had an effect on several creditors: they began to demand money back. It was a disaster. Is it really all the work, self-restraint, stress of the last months - all this is in vain?! And the dream of the northwest passage is not destined to come true?

No! Amundsen will not back down. There is only one way out, and it is very important that Nansen, who visited the yacht on the eve of sailing, agrees with this: "Joa" must go to sea secretly, at night, to escape from creditors.

"How wonderful! There are no more sorrows, annoying creditors ... Alone on a yacht! There are seven of us, we are cheerful and happy. We are sailing to unknown lands, but full of hope and faith," Amundsen wrote that day.

A few years later, Amundsen accidentally found out that then Fridtjof Nansen, without telling him anything, vouched for him to creditors. It was a purely Nansen act...

Amundsen took a five-year supply of food, fuel, clothing and equipment on board the ship, a prefabricated house was loaded on board the ship in case of wintering and material for the construction of a magnetic pavilion: after all, in addition to opening the northwestern passage, Amundsen planned to locate the North Magnetic Pole, located, presumably, on the northern tip of the mainland, on the Butia peninsula.

The first encounter with ice occurred off the western coast of Greenland, in Melville Bay, it took two months to fight against them and cross the Baffin Sea. And then the yacht entered the unexplored, unexplored Lancaster Strait. It was a very difficult path: I had to literally maneuver with pinpoint accuracy among numerous islands, rocks and shoals. Amundsen all the time while passing the strait, was in the "crow's nest" - on the front mast of the ship.

Violent storms also attacked the ship. Once, in order to save the ship, when the wind was swiftly carrying the helpless shell right to the reefs, Amundsen gave an order that seemed crazy to everyone: "Throw the boxes from the deck into the sea!" There were food in the boxes, but they had to be donated. The lightened ship was carried by the wave onto a smooth underwater rock, where it safely waited out the storm. But then a new misfortune arose - a fire in the engine room. And by some miracle it was possible to extinguish it, but thanks to the only correct decision taken by Amundsen - to block the access of air to the engine room.

The Lancaster Strait led to the Simpson Strait, along which, bypassing Victoria Island from the south, it would be possible to continue the journey, but Amundsen, having found a convenient bay for the vessel, decided not to risk it and stopped for the winter in early September. In addition, he was going to make magnetic observations on the Butia Peninsula, which was not far away.

Wintering in the bay west bank King Wilman Island, which became known as Ghoa Bay, was exceptionally calm and efficient. The ship, frozen into a three-meter monolith of ice, was constantly visited by the Eskimos, who built a kind of town around it from Eskimo igloos made of snow bricks. Communication with the Eskimos all winter was very close and mutually beneficial. In exchange for all kinds of iron products, the Norwegians received dressed deer skins, from the Eskimos Amundsen learned to build snow houses - igloos, load sleds, and transport them through cracks in the ice. The winter passed quickly, but the coming summer brought disappointment: the ice in the bay did not break, which meant a second wintering in the same place. But it also went well: there was not even a hint of scurvy, which accompanied most of the polar expeditions. Of course, the abundance of wild deer around helped, hunting for which provided fresh food. The whole expedition worked hard all winter. In addition to constant meteorological, hydrological and magnetic observations, long trips dog sledding around Victoria Island and the straits; about a hundred were put on the map small islands, but the main thing is that the point of the North magnetic pole is precisely set.

The summer of 1905 freed the Gyoa from ice captivity. On August 13, we weighed anchor and it was possible to move on. But again on the way - islands, shoals, underwater reefs, between which only due to its small size the yacht could maneuver. It was constantly necessary to measure the depth, and a special boat was in front of the ship, with which measurements were made, and sometimes no more than two centimeters of water turned out to be under the keel. Amundsen compared Simpson Sound to a "plowed field" - so carefully one had to move along it. But two weeks later, a whaling ship appeared on the horizon: "A ship is visible!" - there was a cry. It was the American schooner "Charles Hansson", which came from another ocean, from the Pacific. And it was a sign that the northwest passage, to which people had been striving for four centuries, had been passed.

“My throat constricted. I was in an extremely nervous state, overworked, and even if this is a sign of weakness, but ... tears welled up in my eyes ... I quickly threw on my clothes. I lingered for a moment in front of the Nansen portrait hanging on the wall, and the image came to life, it seemed Nansen was looking at me and nodding his head ... I nodded to him in response, smiling with happiness, and went on deck, "- this is how Roald Amundsen described this moment.

The goal was achieved, but then a new test - the yacht was jammed with ice, the further path became impossible. Third winter!

This time it was lucky that there was a whole flotilla of American whaling ships: you could get everything you need. Amundsen, along with one of the whaler captains, sets out on an eight hundred-kilometer dog sled journey to the nearest radio station to inform the world of his discovery.

It was the most difficult route through the icy desert, with the crossing of a mountain range up to three thousand meters high, in winter conditions, when the air temperature dropped to fifty degrees. The journey took five months. And in the summer of 1906, the Gyoa entered the Bering Strait and arrived in San Francisco, met with triumph.

Amundsen's success was no accident. He was not seduced by the very vast expanse of water to which his predecessors went, but after passing through the narrow and incredibly difficult Simpson Strait, he chose a route near the coast Northern Canada and Alaska. The expedition of the Norwegians on the tiny yacht "Joa" did so much that it took about twenty years to process the material she brought back.

However, unlike the northeast passage - the Northern Sea Route - this route from ocean to ocean has not found practical application. The Canadian entrepreneur Bernier tried to use it for trading purposes immediately after Amundsen passed it, but failed. Only during the Second World War did they return to this idea, and a small ship "Roch" was sent from Greenland to the west for transportation. But it was possible to pass the track only in two navigations. Only in 1944 did the Norwegian sailor Larsen pass in one year from Atlantic Ocean to Tichiy, 12 years after a similar crossing was made along the Northern Sea Route. After the American icebreaker Glasher successfully passed the northwestern route in 1954, from time to time the icebreakers began to go around North America. However, this way remains economically inexpedient.