Kailash: A life changing journey. When is the best time to go to Kailash?

Our unique program will allow you to visit the most revered religious shrines of the world, located in a lost corner of the world - the highlands of Greater Tibet. Followers of the religions of Buddhism, Hinduism, Jainism and the shamanistic teachings of Bon believe that by circumambulating the sacred mountain Kailash, you can burn all sins accumulated in this and previous lives. You will feel the great religious significance of this shrine as you pass mountain paths along with other pilgrims from Tibet, India and Nepal. Even the mere sight of it majestic peak 6,714 meters high will remain in your shocked mind until the end of your life. Do not miss this unique opportunity to touch the ancient culture and religion of Tibet! Our itinerary also includes a visit to another sacred place located near Mount Kailash - Lake Manasarovar.

The remoteness of these places from the centers of modern civilization, politics and economics allows the local nature and cultural customs to remain intact in our rapidly changing world. A trip through all of Tibet, from Kathmandu to the sacred Mount Kailash, will allow you to see the whole country as if from the inside, to feel its spirit and energy. Political and economic issues modern world seem transient like everything in this transcendental world of the highlands, for "Gen comes and goes, but the earth remains forever"(Ecclesiastes) .

A group of enthusiasts ready to make this unparalleled journey are already packing their backpacks and drying their sleeping bags. If you are brave and ready for adventure, then you have a chance to join us on this heroic journey through time, mountains and rarefied air to touch the ancient secrets of Tibet, inhale the smoke of campfires and hear the stories of pilgrims who stopped for the night under the high stars of the Tibetan plateau, and maybe in this high sky your bright Star will also light up, which will shine for you for many more years after your return from our Tibetan odyssey.

Pilgrimage tour program

DDay 1: Arrival in Kathmandu. Arrival in the capital of the mountain kingdom of Nepal - the city of Kathmandu. Our Russian guide will meet you at the airport. Transfer to the hotel. Rest. Introductory meeting, introduction.

DDay 2: Kathmandu valley tours, getting Tibetan visa and permits. After breakfast, a tour of the Kathmandu Valley begins - a place of incredible congestion medieval temples, Buddhist monasteries and palaces. Visiting Hindu temples, Buddhist stupas, Kathmandu Palace Square with a large number of temples and pagodas, an excursion to the old royal palace. The grand Buddhist stupa Swayambhunath, Tibetan monasteries. Hindu temple complex Pashupatinath, places of cremation, cells of hermit yogis. The grandiose Buddhist stupa of Boudhanath. Buddhist monasteries of Boudhanath. In the evening, checking and choosing equipment provided by our Nepalese friends (puffs, sleeping bags, alpine poles). Overnight at the hotel in Kathmandu (altitude 1300 m).

Day 3: Transfer from Kathmandu to Nyalam (3750m, 156km, 7-8 hours). Early in the morning we leave in the direction of the Nepal-Tibetan border in Kodari. After crossing the border on a small bridge, we meet our Tibetan guide and jeep driver. After getting acquainted with the program of the upcoming trip, we follow to Zhangmu, where all the formalities will be completed. Then we go to Nyalam, where we stop for the night.

Day 4: Nyalam. Today is our acclimatization day. You can also explore the surroundings of Nyalam and climb up to the cave of Milarepa.

Day 5: Transfer from Nyalam to Saga (4600 m, 232 km, 7-8 hours). Today is a long ride over rocky and sandy lands Tibet. From the car window we see lakes, nomads driving herds of sheep and yaks. We pass Peku-tso lake and Labug-la pass (5050 m). After lunch we will cross the Brahmaputra river and reach a typical Tibetan city Saga.

Day 6: Transfer from Saga to Paryang (4600m, 185km, 7-8hrs). After breakfast we continue our tour. A jeep and a truck drive along a river valley with pastures of yaks. Nomads dressed in fancy national costumes welcome you with hot tea. Overnight in Paryang.

Day 7: Transfer to Lake Manasarovar (4300 m, 160 km, 6 hours). Visit to Chiu monastery. Ablution in the sacred waters of Lake Manasarovar. Night on the bank of Manasarovar.

Day 8: Transfer to Darchen (4600 m). Visit to Serlung Gompa Monastery. Overnight in Darchen.

Day 9: First day of kora, trekking Darchen - Dira-Pug (4970 m, 15 km, 6-7 hours). Today is a very beautiful path: rocky cliffs, waterfalls, clear blue sky. We pass the first and second points of "prostrations", Chuku monastery. You can constantly see the majestic Kailash. Overnight at Dira-Pug Monastery.

Day 10: Second day of kora, trekking Dira-Pug - Dzutul-Pug (4790 m, 22 km, 6-7 hours). We start our journey after breakfast. We cross Yamastal on the way to Shivastal. Pilgrims go through a symbolic death in Shivastal, getting rid of old clothes. Sometimes a drop of blood or a strand of hair is left instead of clothes. The path rises to the Dolma pass (5650 m). Offerings and meditations are made here. After lunch you reach Zutul Pug where the famous yogi Milarepa practiced meditation. Overnight in Dzutul-Pug.

Day 11: Third day of kora, trekking Dzutul-Pug - Darchen (4560 m, 14 km, 2-3 hours) and transfer to Saga (4200 m, 6 hours). Today is the final day of Kora. easy road down to Darchen, where a car is waiting for us. Then a trip to Sag and overnight in a comfortable hotel.

Day 12: Transfer from Saga to Jangmu (3500 m, 232 km, 7-8 hours). Rest at the hotel.

Day 13: Transfer from Jangmu to Kathmandu. Rest at the hotel. Shopping.

Day 14: Departure from Nepal. Today there is time for shopping for gifts and souvenirs for your family, friends or relatives and then you will be taken to international Airport to fly to your destination.

Copied from the site "Self-knowledge.ru"

Tibet - center spiritual world and Mount Kailash is the heart of Tibet. In the Gandhi mountain system there is a peak over 6000 meters high, this is the sacred Mount Kailash, the highest peak of the same name. mountain range.

The precious snow mountain, as the Buddhists call it, has so far remained unconquered, because the Chinese authorities do not give permission to climb. The only attempt to climb the mountain caused a storm of protest from the faithful, led by the Dalai Lama. The inhabitants of Tibet believe that Kailash is the house of God and anyone who climbs the mountain must die.

The mountain is considered sacred, representatives of 3 major religions make a pilgrimage to it: Hindus, Buddhists, Jains. They must go around the mountain 108 times. This will give the purification of karma and the best reincarnation.

Hindus consider the peak of the mountain to be the home (summer residence) of the god Shiva. Perhaps, looking at Kailash, Mount Meru was created in this religion - the point from where the world begins and where the gods live.

Adherents of Bon, a religion that existed in China before Buddhism, believe that their teacher and mentor Salwa descended from heaven to the mountain in the form of Tonpa Shenrab Miwoche. The Jains are sure that the first Jain lived and received enlightenment here. And Buddhists believe that Buddha lived here in the angry incarnation of Samvara and therefore Kailash is one of the favorable places for spiritual growth.

In other words, many people believe that this mountain is endowed with divine power, and many try to make a ritual detour in order to find enlightenment and clear karma. This pilgrimage route is called a kora.

Photographer Samuel Zuder, visiting Kailash, was struck by him at first sight. Very soon he was able to gather a small group of helpers and for a whole month he photographed the surroundings and the pilgrims. The results of his journey are impressive. In the future, the photographer plans to publish a book Facing Faith: Mount Kailash, Tibet. For now, we’ll admire the stunningly rich photos he created:

Left: Sonam Tsering, 24. Origin: Darchen, Tibet. 4 rounds. Right: Tsering Zumba, 28. Origin: Darchen, Tibet. 22 rounds.

Polyana Tarpoche. May holiday Saga Dawa.

Left: Dolma, 18. Origin: Lhasa, Tibet. 1 bypass. Pictured right: Lobsang Yeshe, 27. Origin: Markam, Tibet. 5 rounds. Far right: Tempa Gyatso, 28.

Mount Kailash, Lha Chu valley.

“Worshiping Mount Kailash, a person does not give up the usual daily behavior. It's not like going to church where you have to stay calm and focus on prayer. During the ritual tour, I saw many groups and families who seemed to take great pleasure in worshiping the mountain,” writes the photographer.

Left: Sange, 17. Origin: Darchen, Tibet. 12 rounds. Right: Yeshe Gyaltsen, 35. Origin: Shigatse, Tibet. 12 rounds.

Mount Kailash, Dirapuk Gompa, north side.

Left: Dazang, 47. Origin: Nagchu, Tibet. 7 rounds. Right: Lhaga, 49. Origin: Gejey, Tibet. 6 rounds.

Mount Kailash, Dirapuk Gompa, north side.

Journey to the sacred mountain Kailash

19 days. Hike cost: $3200.

Kora around Kailash - the most exciting tour in Tibet, allowing you to see the highest peaks the globe, get acquainted with the unique culture of the East, touch the secrets of ancient civilizations, visit the residence of the Dalai Lama Lhasa and make a ritual detour around the sacred Mount Kailash. In a remote, inaccessible area Western Tibet the snow-capped peak of Mount Kailash (Kailash) rises. Compared to other Himalayan peaks, Kailash is not the highest mountain. The height of this peak reaches 6638 m, but its shape is amazing - a four-sided pyramid with edges oriented exactly to the cardinal points. Followers of four religions (Buddhism, Hinduism, Bon and Jainism), two of which are global, consider Kailash sacred mountain, the place where their gods dwell. They are sure that this unusual mountain is the "heart of the world" and endowed with special powers. Worshiping sacred mountain, believers make kora. Kora is a Tibetan word that means pilgrimage and is expressed by going around a holy place: a monastery, temple, lake or mountain. According to legend, the bark around Mount Kailash in Tibet gives everyone who performs this ritual the opportunity to cleanse themselves of the sins of their lives. Today, the 53-kilometer trek around Kailash is the most sacred pilgrimage route in the world and attracts many travelers.

Hiking route
Kathmandu-Lhasa-Shigatse-Shegar-Everest Base Camp-Saga-Darchen-Mount Kailash-Lake Manasarovar-Saga-Nyalam-Jangmu-Kathmandu

On this day, you arrive at Tribhuvan Airport, located in the capital of Nepal - Kathmandu. You will be met by an instructor of our company. After obtaining a Nepalese visa, you will go by taxi to the hotel, which is located in tourist area cities - Tamele. After checking into the hotel, you can take a walk to the old palace square Durbar, where many medieval temples and the palace of the living goddess Kumari are located. There are many in Nepalese shops tourist equipment, and you can purchase the missing items. In the evening you will have dinner in one of the cozy restaurants.

Second day

After breakfast, you will go to see the main attractions of Kathmandu - the temples of Pashupatinath, Boudhanath and Swayambhunath.

The temple complex of Pashupatinath, located on the banks of the sacred river Bagmati, was founded in the 13th century. He is sacred place for all Hindus who worship the god Shiva, called the king of animals. Here is the “Golden Temple”, important for all Shaivites, which only Hindus are allowed to enter. During religious holidays, numerous pilgrims from India and Nepal gather in Pashupatinath. Here you can meet sadhus - wandering yogis. They have a rather colorful look and for a small fee they allow you to take a photo with you. Every day in the temple complex there is a ritual - the cremation of Hindus.

The temple complex of Bodhanath is the main center of Tibetan Buddhism in Nepal, a sacred Buddhist place. In the central part of the complex there is a large Buddhist stupa built in the 6th century, which is surrounded by numerous gompas (Tibetan monasteries). Tibetans and monks, reciting mantras and turning the rosary, make a bark around the stupa.

The Swayambhunath temple complex is a Buddhist shrine. It is located at the top of the 77-meter Swayambhu hill covered with forest. A huge number of monkeys live in it, because of which Swayambhunath is often called the Monkey Temple. In the center of the complex is a large stupa built in the 3rd century BC and rebuilt a millennium later, surrounded by several Tibetan monasteries and a Tibetan school. Climbing a 365-degree staircase, you can reach the top of the hill, from where you can enjoy a wonderful view of the Kathmandu valley and the peaks of the Himalayas.

Day three. Flight to Tibet, transfer to Lhasa (3595m).

In the morning you will transfer to Kathmandu airport and fly to Tibet. Today you need to get to Lhasa. Lhasa is the heart and soul of Tibet, the center and main holy city this area. For many centuries, Lhasa served as the abode of the Dalai Lama, for which it is called the "city of celestials."

Upon arrival at Gongkar Airport, you will transfer by bus to Lhasa City, which is 60 km from the airport. On the way from the airport, you will enjoy the Tibetan landscapes and the view of the highest mountainous river in the world, the Brahmaputra. Upon arrival in the city, you will check into a hotel. Then you will have lunch and acclimatization in the highlands.

Day four. Excursions in Lhasa.

In the morning, you will start exploring Lhasa with a visit to the Jokhang. This is a famous temple and monastery, called the "House of the Lord", it is especially revered by the people of Tibet. Crowds of pilgrims come here to bow to the sacred statue of Shakyamuni Buddha, brought to Lhasa in the 7th century. The temple impresses with its highly artistic design. Gilded tiles and roof decorations in the form of deer, Buddhist prayer wheels, banners, figures of saints, mythical animals and birds give the Jokhang a brilliant look. The temple houses a large collection of works of art and cultural monuments.

In the afternoon, you will visit the large Buddhist Sera Monastery, a popular pilgrimage site and museum. The monastery was founded in the 15th century, earlier it was one of the three state monasteries of the famous university of Tibetan Buddhism of the Gelugpa school, more than 5 thousand monks lived in it. This monastery is still active. About 100 monks live in it, who arrange colorful debates on philosophical topics in the afternoon and this attract tourists.

Day five. Excursions in Lhasa.

On this day you will see the highest mountain palace - Potala (3767 m), called the "Pearl of the Roof of the World". For many years this door served as the residence of the Dalai Lama, today it is a museum. The Potala Palace was built and rebuilt over ten centuries. Countless amounts of wood, stone, gold and precious stones. Today, this complex rises to 110 meters on the slope of the Red Mountain and consists of the Red and White Palaces. Palace halls, and there are more than 1000 of them, are distinguished luxurious architecture and are decorated with golden and wooden figurines of saints, Tibetan carpets, drawings, as well as metal, porcelain, ceramics and jade products.

Next, you will have a trip to Norbulingka, the summer residence of the Dalai Lama. The name Norbulingka in translation sounds like "Precious Park". This is the most beautiful and largest man-made garden in Tibet. It has built several beautiful palaces.

Another attraction is the Drepung Monastery, the largest monastery in Tibet, the number of monks in it previously exceeded 10 thousand. The monastery keeps the richest collection of historical relics, manuscripts, works of art, as well as the world's largest tanka of Buddha Shakyamuni, which once a year the monks hang out in the western part of the monastery on the mountain.

Day six. Transfer to the city of Shigatse (3840m).

In the morning you will have a long jeep ride from Lhasa to the second largest city in Tibet - Shigatse. The road goes along the Kambo-la pass, from where a wonderful view of the peaks of the Himalayas opens up. On the way, you will make a stop to admire the beauty of the sacred lake Yamdrok-tso, which is remarkable in that the water in it constantly changes its color. Next, you will head to the city of Gyantse to see the multi-tiered Kumbum stupa, the Pelcho Chode monastery, and the ancient dzong fortress. Upon arrival in Shigatse, you will check into a hotel.

Day seven. Transfer to Shegar village (4050m).

In the morning you will visit the main attraction of Shigatse - the Tashilhunpo Monastery, which previously served as the residence of the Panchen Lama Tibet. This is one of the largest monasteries in Tibet operating today. The complex name of the monastery is translated from the Tibetan language as "all happiness and prosperity is collected here." The monastery houses the world's largest statue of Buddha Maitreya, reaching a height of 26 m. It is made of several hundred kilograms of gold, silver, bronze, decorated with pearls and diamonds.

Next, you will head to the village of Shegar. Along the way, you will see beautiful panoramic views of Tibet, the highest pass of Gyamtso La (5220 m), camps of nomadic shepherds and lonely monasteries. On the way, you will have a stop near the Sakya Monastery - the main monastery of the eponymous school of Tibetan Buddhism. It houses a significant library of ancient scrolls. In the evening you will reach the village of Shegar, where you will stay overnight in a guesthouse.

Day eight. Transfer to Rongbuk monastery (5100 m).

The road to Rongbuk Monastery is quite difficult and interesting. You will have to drive for a long time along a long serpentine road to the Pang La pass (5150 m), from the height of which a breathtaking view of four eight-thousand-meter Himalayan peaks opens: Everest, Makalu, Lhotse and Cho Oyu. Then you will reach the Rongbuk Monastery, from where Everest Base Camp is only 10 km away.

The Tibetan Buddhist monastery Rongbuk is one of the main attractions of Nepal, it is the highest (5100 m) and rather old (founded in 1902) monastery. Now only two floors are used in the five-story building, and out of the 500 monks and nuns who once lived here, only 30 remain. main building.

Near the monastery there is a stationary campsite where you will stay for the night.

Day nine. Transfer Rongbuk Monastery (5100 m) - Everest Base Camp (5360 m) - Saga city (4640 m).

Short transfer to lookout point Everest Base Camp and you can see the most high point the globe - Everest and take a photo for memory. Then you will return to Rongbuk Monastery, from where you will go to small town Saga. Overnight at the hotel.

Day ten. Transfer to Darchen village (4670 m)

This day is waiting for you long road to the village of Darchen, which is the starting point of the kora around Kailash. The village has a small monastery, guesthouses - hotels for tourists and pilgrims, as well as restaurants with Chinese and Tibetan cuisine. Overnight in a guesthouse.

Day eleven. First day of bark. Trek to Dirapuk Monastery (5050 m).

The road from the village of Darchen goes west along the ridge that covers the mountains. IN southbound stretches the wide plain of Barka, which is framed by the majestic ridge of the Himalayas. Very soon you will reach a place at an altitude of 4730 m, marked with prayer flags. From there you will have a view of south side Mount Kailash, called "sapphire". This place is the first of four places where many pilgrims perform offering and prostration rituals. The trail will then take you north to the La Chu valley (4750m), where the Tarboche pillar is set up, which is re-erected every year, and how vertical it stands matters to the Tibetans. To the west of Tarboche is the Chorten Kangni, and it is considered auspicious among the Tibetans to pass through its arch. Then the ritual bypass route continues along the eastern side of La Chu past the gorge of the Chuku monastery, built in the 13th century, and soon the western wall of Kailash will appear before you. In this place is the second point where Tibetans-pilgrims make prostrations. After a few hours of walking, you will reach the Dirapuk Monastery, which is located under the northern wall of Kailash. Overnight in a guesthouse.

Day twelve. Second day of the bark. Radial exit to the server slope of Kailash.

To have a good look at the glacier sliding down from Kailash, you need to approach its northern slope. On this day, you will make a radial exit, which will allow you to get as close to the sacred mountain as possible. Overnight in a guesthouse.

Day thirteen. Third day of the bark. Crossing the Drolma La pass (5760m), descent to the Zutrulpuk monastery (4800m).

From the Dirapuk monastery, the trail climbs up to a section of the slope of Mount Shiva Tsal (5330m) - a place where pilgrims leave their old things, accept a symbolic death and prepare for a new life, which begins at the top of the crust - at the Drolma La pass. From the pass you will descend past the sacred lake Tukpe Dzingbu into the valley and go to the campsite located next to the Zutrulpuk monastery.

Day fourteen. The fourth and final day of the kora. Transfer to Chiu monastery (4557 m)

On this day you will return to the village of Darchen, where the crust closes around the sacred Mount Kailash. Then you will make a transfer to the high-altitude lake Manasarovar. It is popular place pilgrimages of the Tibetans, and in order to be cleansed of sins, people make a kora around the lake, bathe in it and drink its water. Manasarovar is connected by a canal to the smaller lake Rakshas Tal. There are five monasteries on the shore of the lake. The most famous of them is Chiu ("little bird"), famous for that it contains the lifetime sculpture of Buddha-Chomdente and there is a cave where Padmasambhava meditated. Nearby are hot springs where you can take a warm bath. Overnight in a guesthouse near Chiu Monastery.

Day fifteen. Transfer to the city of Saga (4640 m).

Return back. Having reached the town of Saga, you stop for the night at the hotel.

Day sixteen. Transfer to Nyalam (3750m).

Continuation of the trip across the Tibetan Plateau. On the way, the top of the Shisha-Pangma mountain (8027m) is clearly visible. Overnight at the hotel in Nyalam, located near the Tibetan border.

Day seventeen. Transfer to Kathmandu.

After crossing the Friendship Bridge, Nepal awaits you with its green plains. Return to Kathmandu. Overnight at the hotel.

Day eighteen. Kathmandu.

Today is a free day in Kathmandu, which you can devote to buying souvenirs for friends and family.

Day 19: Flight home.

5 people - $3600 6 people - $3350

7 people - $3100 8 people - $2970

Airline information

Flight to Kathmandu from Moscow Airarabia - 700 dollars round trip

From Kyiv Flydubai: $650 Airarabia: $700 round trip

The cost of the trip includes

• Accompaniment of our Russian-speaking instructor
• three meals a day in Tibet
• Tibetan guide services
• all transfers on the route
• transfers in Toyota Land Cruiser jeeps (4 seats per jeep)
• all permits in Tibet
• yaks for carrying cargo during the kora around Kailash (1 yak for two people)
• accommodation in a hotel in Kathmandu and in lodges and hotels during the route
• first aid kit

Schedule of hikes along the route

This year my dream to visit Tibet and see the sacred mountain Kailash came true. It is currently impossible to travel to Tibet on your own - these are the rules adopted by the Chinese side for visiting Tibet or the Tibetan autonomous region(official name). But it is possible to go to Tibet through a travel agency, consisting of tourist group. I went through the Kailash tour operator, as I used his services many times and I know firsthand about the reliability of the campaign and the professionalism of the team that works in it. Thanks to them for making this trip possible, special thanks to our guide. This concludes my little digression.

The route of our journey to Tibet began in Nepal. The meeting place of the group was the city of Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal. Together with the guide Smirnov Semyon, our group consisted of 10 people.

Group photo

In the two days we spent in Kathmandu before flying to Tibet, we visited places that are a must for tourists and those who are in Nepal for the first time. This allows you to get to know and understand a little the culture of the peoples inhabiting Nepal. For some Europeans, the surrounding reality at first causes a slight culture shock, but after a few days, most travelers take it easy.

Durbar Square

I have already been to Nepal, and from what I saw in Kathmandu, the places where the Swayambhunath stupa and the Pashupatinath complex are located are more interesting and consonant to me. Let me tell you a little about these places.

Stupa Svyambunath

Swayambhunath Stupa is located on the top of the hill. It is noteworthy that this place is revered in Hinduism, Buddhism and the Bon religion. According to the legends, the first sanctuaries on this site appeared a very long time ago. Here, at this place, religions peacefully coexist with each other: there is a Hindu temple and Buddhist shrines belonging to different schools. A pujari from a Hindu temple can bless a Buddhist monk and it looks organic.

Hindu blessing Buddhist

The complex with the Pashupatinath Temple is located on the banks of the Bagmati River, sacred to Hindus. I will not be mistaken if I say that the complex is the center of Kathmandu Hinduism. And it is difficult to overestimate its importance for Hinduism. Entrance to main temple The Pashupatinath complex is open only to the Hindu, the rest can only look at it from the side. But this is enough to understand - this is a very strong place. On the banks of the Bagmati River there are places for the cremation of the bodies of the dead. The attitude towards life and death among Hindus differs from that generally accepted in Western countries. In short, it can be expressed as follows. Reincarnation is the knowledge that the soul - the consciousness of man is immortal. Death is a state between births in an earthly body that many of us do not remember. A person living many lives gains moral experience, and the next birth will be determined in accordance with his actions and aspirations. This is the law of karma, the law of correspondences. The body is the receptacle of the soul-consciousness and the instrument of knowledge of the world. When a person has fulfilled his destiny or the body has worn out, then physical death occurs. In order for the soul-consciousness to quickly leave the physical world and unite with God-Absolute without being attached to the body and cut off attachments, there are rituals, in different religions which help the soul-consciousness to pass this way. Outwardly, they may differ, but their essence is the same, whether it is cremation, burial or heavenly burial - feeding to vultures, which is practiced in Tibet.

Pashupatinath

Buffalo statue in front of Pashupatinath temple ridden by Shiva

Sites for the cremation of the bodies of the dead

Waiting to be cremated

Rising upstream from Pashupatinath, you can see the caves where Marpa and his disciple Tilopa visited and meditated. This was the end of our stay in Kathmandu.

The next day we flew to Tibet, to Lhasa. Flying over the Himalayas, we were lucky to see the top of the high mountain on the ground - Everest.

Top of Mount Everest

Upon arrival in Lhasa, immediately boarding the bus, we went to the place where the Samye Buddhist monastery is located. There is a mountain near the monastery, according to legend, it was here that the duel between Padmasabhava and the Bon priest took place, as a result of which Padmasabhava won. Personally, it is difficult for me to imagine that the enlightened Padmasabhava and the no less enlightened Bon priest could compete with each other. Here at the top there is a good temple of the defenders.

Temple of the Defenders

Opens from the top beautiful view to Samye Monastery, which is built in the form of a mandala. The monastery is large and beautiful, restoration works are being carried out in some temples of the monastery. The first feeling that you experience when entering the main temple of the monastery is power and it is physically felt. And in general, from this place I got the feeling - I'm in Tibet and I somehow calmed down - everyone came. In the defender's room above the door is a part of a stuffed python. Where they got it from is a mystery to me! Probably brought from India. True, he was not allowed to take pictures. But in other places it was possible to take pictures. For those who will be in Tibet: Samye Monastery, in my opinion, is a must to visit.

samye monastery

Samye Monastery, in the main temple

Samye Monastery, Temple of the Protectors

Further, our path lay in Lhasa, the capital of Tibet. At present, Lhasa is undergoing intensive construction, and Lhasa is becoming modern city. China's influence is hard to miss. The Dalai Lama's Potala Palace is now a museum. Previously, the spiritual and secular lines of Tibet's power were concentrated in it. There are a lot of visitors and this is not surprising. Another significant place in Lhasa is the Jokhang Monastery, which has not lost its significance. Monks live in it and services are conducted. According to legend, on the site where the Jokhang Monastery is located, there used to be a lake. The Dalai Lama's Potala Palace and Jokhang Monastery, along with Samye Monastery, are strong places we visited, despite the fact that there are no monks in the Dalai Lama's palace and no religious ceremonies are held. But in my opinion religious buildings and those artifacts that are in them need to be used for their intended purpose and by those who know how to do it. Otherwise, they can turn into exhibits. There are many examples of this. In Western museums, there are a lot of artifacts and religious objects that have become exhibits. Religion should not be frozen and separated from the people. She must live and serve for the benefit of people. Then spiritual traditions will be preserved and multiplied.

Potala - Palace of the Dalai Lama

Prostrating in front of the entrance to the Jokhang Monastery

Drak Yerpa Monastery, in addition to Buddhism, is also associated with the Bon religion, which was the main religion of Tibet before the advent of Buddhism. The caves where the Bon masters practiced are located above the main monastery. To get to them you need to spend about two days and you need equipment, as our Tibetan guide said. I think it is no secret to anyone that Tibetan Buddhism has become what it is now also due to the fact that it adopted a lot from the Bon religion. Of course, this process was mutual. It is said that from above the area where the monastery is located resembles the figure of the goddess Tara. There is a place for the ritual of heavenly burial. As far as I know, the Chinese authorities forbid Tibetans to perform this ritual.

Drak Yerpa, in one of the rooms of the monastery

The next point of our journey is Pelkor Chode Monastery and Kumbum Stupa. In the monastery nice room defenders, the faces of some defenders are covered. They are opened only in some important points When this happens, decide in the monastery. I tried to photograph the face of one defender, but the camera was unable to focus. The Kumbum Stupa has 108 rooms, in each room there is a statue of a deity, symbolizing one or another aspect of the divine nature.

The room of the defenders of the monastery Pelkor Chode

Shigatse Monastery is the residence of the Panchen Lama, the second most important clergyman after the Dalai Lama. Its whereabouts are currently unknown.

Having reached Lake Manasarovar, we left our things in the guest house and went for a walk to the lake. At the entrance to Lake Manasarovar, the sacred Kailash appears for the first time. In our group there was a geologist Yulia Volkova from St. Petersburg. If questions arose concerning geology, it was always possible to get the opinion of a specialist. Lake Manasarovar, according to Julia, from a geological point of view, is of glacial origin. It is very beautiful. Its color changes depending on the lighting. The water in the lake is cool, but some of us took a dip. It was great! Near the lake on top of the mountain is Chiu Monastery, which has a cave where Padmasabhava also visited and left a footprint. Padmasabhava honored many places with his presence. He is not only one of the most revered saints in Buddhism, but also great traveler. Near the monastery there are hot springs, where you can take baths for a moderate fee. Quite comfortable! In direct line of sight from Lake Manasarovar is Lake Rakshas.

Hot springs at Manasarovar, Rakshas visible in the distance

The next day we left for Darchen. Darchen is a place where pilgrims flock from all over Tibet and other countries. This is the last stop before the start of the kora. Inner excitement reaches its maximum! Tomorrow the bark will begin, which is why we all came here. Each religion has its own significant places, visiting which has a powerful impact on a person. In Islam, this is a Hajj, in Christianity, visiting places associated with the life of Jesus Christ, in Hinduism, Buddhism and the Bon religion, one of such places is Mount Kailash and making a detour around Kailash. Many believers, especially from India and other countries, have been preparing for this for years. The Kailash area is still difficult to access due to various circumstances, including its remoteness and the actions of the Chinese authorities, which periodically close access to the sacred mountain. Making a detour is best done not in winter period. About what is Kailash and the area adjacent to it has been known since ancient times. In my opinion, the symbol of Kailash can be seen in every Hindu temple - this is Shivalingam. If you look at the mountain area from above, doubts disappear by themselves. And the fact that Shivalingam is poured with milk during rituals... Remember the milk rivers! In Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism and the Bon religion, this place is the dwelling place of the Deities. Legends about the world order also point to this place. There is no need to invent anything here! You just need to read what they say about this place in religious texts. Moreover, this information is not a secret.

Checkpoint, bark start

Waking up and having breakfast in the dark, walking along main street Darchen, having reached its outskirts, we went out onto the path. It started to get light. Together with the pilgrims, our group began its journey. Buddhists make their rounds in a clockwise direction, representatives of the Bon religion in an anti-clockwise direction. Some people still have a negative attitude towards the Bon religion. This is due to ignorance and often incorrect information about the Bon religion. We walked clockwise, it is difficult to gather a group of those who want to go through the kora in the Bon tradition. The height is about 5000 meters, there are no strong drops and rises on the first day, I will talk about my feelings. Of course, this is not an easy walk, and walking requires effort - after all, height affects. But you can go quite comfortably, if necessary, you can stop and rest. It is better to choose your rhythm of walking, the body will adjust itself.

One and a half to two hours after the beginning of the crust, we reach last post Chinese military. On the right side of the post is the cemetery of 84 Mahasiddhas. Unfortunately, the passage to the cemetery was closed. I tried to pass, but the Chinese military did not let me through. In this cemetery, a ritual of heavenly burial was performed, some call it heavenly feeding. It boils down to the fact that after death the body of the deceased is dismembered and fed to the vultures. It is clear that this tradition has been around for a very long time. In the conditions of the Tibetan plateau, it is difficult to either bury or burn the body. No pointless rituals! This ritual also includes deep meaning. The body of a dead person is offered to all hungry spirits so that they can be fed and leave the circle of samsara. In addition, it gave the Tibetans knowledge about the structure of the human body, the causes and effects of illness, and it was also a very effective practice of Chod. In the literal sense, the word "Chod" means to cut off, cut off. Cut off from attachments. As far as I know, when an incision was made below the base of the skull and in the knee joints, it was possible to determine the state of a person, what he was, by the color of the liquid. If a person's heart was eaten by the leader of a flock of birds, then this was seen as a good sign. By the way, in the south of India, in Hampi, I happened to observe when brahmins fed various food to crows after death. I think these rituals have the same roots. In Tibet, I saw cemeteries, from our guide I know that they are going to build a crematorium in Lhasa. Chinese authorities ban Tibetans from holding sky funerals. I think this is wrong! You can not deprive the people of their roots and traditions.

Cemetery 84 Mahasiddhas

Our path ran next to the Lha Chu River, along the western face of Kailash. The western face of Kailash has a concave shape, maybe that's why it is not always open, opposite the western face there is a place on which there is a stone called "Tara's saddle".

Western face of Kailash

Tara's Saddle Stone

By evening we reached a place near the Dirapuk monastery. Overnight at the campsite. Here the northern face of Kailash was already visible. Fatigue from the path traveled was felt. After we settled down and had dinner, I went to bed. A slight heat was felt in the body. Slept normally.

Northern face of Kailash

During the night my body rested, in the morning I felt good. After breakfast early in the morning, we continued on our way. After some time, the climb began. You need to focus on your well-being and rest when necessary. Bon representatives were coming towards us and I greeted them in Tibetan - “Tashi Delek”. They also greeted me. The atmosphere on the kora among the pilgrims is warm, everyone is friendly towards each other. The views of the mountains surrounding us and Kailash were beautiful, the path gradually climbed up - we were approaching the Drolma pass. Before the pass you can find a stone with a peculiar passage. Tibetans crawl through it. It is considered a good sign if a person does not get stuck in a crevice and manages to quickly climb through.

Tibetan woman climbs through a stone in front of the Drolma pass

Before the Drolma pass there is also a place where they did the ritual of heavenly burial. The ascent to the pass is lengthy and requires effort. I had to rest often. Very hard! From the Bonpos coming towards me, I heard the familiar mantra “OM MATI MU E SALEDU” - this is the Bon heart mantra. And already to everyone who met me, instead of a greeting, I said this mantra. It was clear from their faces that they were happy. On the pass, a beautiful view opens up and a rock, which is called the ax of Karma, becomes visible.

Cemetery in front of the Drolma Pass

Drolma Pass

Rock Ax of Karma

After passing the pass, the trail gradually descends into the valley. And a little further to become wider. It's already a road. Walking becomes easier. In the evening we reached the Zutrulpuk monastery and stopped for the night at a campsite not far from the monastery. In the morning we went up to the monastery of Zutrulpuk - it is associated with the stay of Milarepa in it. There is a cave here where he meditated. I think that many saints meditated in it, so you need to visit such places! The monastery itself is small. It is currently undergoing renovation. In it, finally, they took me a bottle of vodka, which I carried with me all the trip. As soon as I showed it to the monk, he gestured to me - leave it! The fact is that vodka and alcohol are used in the rituals of offerings to spirits. I took 3 bottles with me from home and thought to bring them to the monastery. I gave one to the monk Dondup from the Menri monastery, but in other monasteries somehow it did not work out. After the monastery, we continued our way to Darchen, where the kora ends.

In the end, I want to say that visiting places like Kailash changes people, their attitude to the world around them, people. Maybe some people need more time, some less. When we left Darchen, I had a feeling of slight sadness. I love the Himalayas! I feel very good here! I wish all of us to treat each other with respect, love and speedy enlightenment. For those who want to visit Tibet and see Kailash, I wish their dreams come true!

My photo

Andrey Kononov

Tibet: upcoming tours

August 22, 2013 10:20 am Lhasa, Tibet Autonomous Region - China October 2011

Perhaps You are already familiar with me, or familiar with my articles about Tibet. My name is Nadezhda, I live and work in Lhasa.

My new report on the trip to Kailash on October 18-30 cannot resist and I start writing right now. Why? Because it is not the trip itself that is the essence of this Path, but the spiritual work that takes place inside a person. Someone does not even notice it, someone goes to this for years. Someone simply does not believe in it, and goes to Kailash for the physical adventures of a three-day trek.

My past bark was already “realized”, I received a blessing from the Friend and Teacher Lama Thomei from the Sera Monastery, Lhasa city. What do I mean by understanding the "conscious cortex"? At least the mood when you go on this trip is not because it is “fashionable”, “interesting” or “for the company”, but when you receive a call from the heart to come to certain places, offer certain prayers, work on yourself, complete certain tasks …

Each person has a different purpose of the cortex, often it is too intimate to talk about it. But the common goal that unites all pilgrims is the same, regardless of religion: to make yourself better by purifying your soul, thereby making the energy around you better, which will entail an increase in the positive charge on the earth as a whole. In simple words, the goal is to benefit the World by improving one's spiritual heart.

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The spiritual mood before the bark around Kailash is very important. Ever since the last “mindful” kora that I went through in August 2010, I have been practicing in my heart the lessons that I learned: the lesson of patience, the lesson of continuous creation of life, the lesson of working for the benefit of sentient beings. And now, when a little more than ten days remain before the trip, I begin to finally tune in to the trip, by consolidating the lessons of the past bark and the entire life period that was after it. Indeed, after the ax of karma, which was revealed to me in August 2010, another life began. But it's not heaven's choice, it's my choice. You should not think that after passing the bark, everything will certainly change, and will go like clockwork. Each of us has his own karma, his own Path that must be passed. This does not mean that fate is written to us in advance, it only means that everyone has a set of tasks that a person is free to perform. I noticed that when you think and embark on the path of spiritual self-development, in the process of acquiring knowledge or merit, the tasks that a person faces increase in complexity. Therefore, the bark is not the Path, henceforth freeing us from all the complexities of life and bestowing manna from heaven, on the contrary, it is a person’s choice to develop from now on, a person’s choice to serve the World, a person’s choice to work tirelessly, create and create, which is far from the easiest life path.

In preparation for the trip, I scroll through my head the answers to the questions: What thoughts came to me this year? What thoughts have I heard from Lama and Master this year? I'm trying to fix them.

The trip went great!

A trip to Kailash is a special tour, the team decides a lot: whether you come to the Place of Power with a group or alone, whether you will be supported or unsettled. In the Places of Power, all emotions are aggravated: both positive and negative. Places of Power not only give us energy, but also draw us in like a funnel. Therefore, the purpose of the trip, the team, behavior in the group and work with the Place are extremely important.

First of all, I was lucky with the company. Our team gathered very successfully, everyone took their place and performed their functions in the group, which gave the group strength and inspiration. Teachers Eduard and Fati were with us, who were the main core, and helped the group to focus on the tasks of the Path and complete them to the end.

While preparing for the trip, we talked about the fact that the mountains are, first of all, a meeting with oneself. The guide only leads the person, but does not give anything from himself, so do not expect tips “to enlightenment” from the guide, his task is only to lead you to this place. And to discover oneself, to get to know oneself - this is the task of the traveler himself.

Even before leaving Lhasa, we had the good fortune to be present at the transmission of two mantras to Eduard from our Lama Thomei. After the transmission, we had a meditation together with the Lama, he blessed us for the upcoming Path, and the journey began.

In Lhasa, we followed the pilgrimage route: the Potala Palace, the Jokhang Temple, Barghor Street, the summer residence of the Dalai Lamas Norbulingka, the Sera Monasteries, Drapung, the Temple of Wealth and cave complex Drak Yerpa.

In the monastery of Sera, thanks to our friend Lama, we managed to go through the rite of burning old karma and make wishes at the protector with the head of the Tamdrin horse. In the pavilion of Tamdrin, a young Lama sits, writing down the petitions of the pilgrims on red sheets of paper in gold ink, these sheets are given into the hands of the pilgrims, and standing in line for the statue of Tamdrin, these notes are passed to the elder Lama, who reads the requests aloud, sings mantras and burns them in a large dish , after which you need to put your head on the foot of the statue. The procedure is amazingly strong, bewitches, bewitches, especially when the notes are burning and the monk reads mantras, the feeling that the world is turning upside down. Surprisingly, one of my wishes made there came true after just three days! Once again I am convinced in Tibet that wishes come true as if by the movement of a magic wand, so for a long time I have been trying to think only what is really necessary so as not to become a slave to my desires.

Particularly inspired by the next visiting Drak Yerpa(Three members of the group were here not for the first time). In the main temple of the monastery, we lingered at the statue of Maitreya Buddha. Here we started a fascinating conversation with the young Lama, who, touched by our attention, tried to tell us everything he knew about the temple and show us all the most precious shrines stored in that pavilion. We learned from him that the three most revered statues of Buddha Maitreya in Tibet, the three brothers, are kept in the monasteries of Drepung, Tashilumpo and ... Drak Yerpa! Pilgrimage to all three is a particularly good deed. The Lama showed us a stone found at Drak Yerpa with the self-manifested syllable OM written in white rock on black rock. He also showed an unusual ancient cup made of pure gold, which emits long-term vibrations that stagger the imagination and a special sound. He also revealed his little secret to us, which was very touching, but I can’t describe it in writing. We meditated a bit together, we meditated on opening our hearts. The Lama blessed us with consecrated water from a golden cup, which we drank, washed our face with it, and sprinkled the upper chakra. Then the lama gave us a mantra OM AH HUM PENZA GURU PEDMA SIDHI HUM, - a mantra for the development of the abilities and qualities of the body. We were very grateful to Lama Lobsang, who welcomed us so cordially. He was so happy to tell and show everything he knows that it was an example of simple pure human realization to all of us.

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Leaving Lhasa, we went to Sacred lake Yamdrok-cho, which the Yanas in Tibet call "Precious green jade over pastures" and "Scorpion lake" for its unique color and shape. It is said that this lake cannot be seen twice. I can confirm this fact: I can no longer count how many times I have been near its shores, and each time the lake shows itself differently. It can be amazingly warm, smooth, calm, deep, and it can be harsh, raging, blue, purple, cold.

What is good about such trips with your team is that you can stop and linger in a place you like longer than usual and retire for meditation. Arriving at the lake and drinking hot tea, we parted ways: Eduard painted, Fati built prayer pyramids, Aslan walked, Sasha meditated, and I lay down on the mat to ground myself a little. After resting, Eduard and Fati had a meditation on the lake, as a result of which they agreed that there is an underwater civilization in the dimension of the lake, many people live there, local entities, white and transparent, life is in full swing. Deep knowledge is stored in the lake - the seeds of life, therefore it is recognized as sacred and is a place of pilgrimage and worship. The water of the lake is heavenly, the heavens are open here, a direct passage to the sky is open.

Worshiping the sacred lakes of Tibet, such as Lake Yamdrok, Manasarovar, Namu-tsho, Lamula-tsho, you can’t step into the water with your feet, wash objects, wash, bathe, this is considered a desecration of the shrine. It is better not to fight with such strong places. Yes, Hindus bathe, they do it according to their tradition, but in Tibet we should respect local customs. How can one make an offering to the sacred lake? You can make an offering of water: take the sacred living water in the palm of your hand and give it to the lake. This ritual does not pollute the sacred waters, it emphasizes our respect for the shrine.

This time we saw a lonely duck on the lake, it swayed on the waves for a very long time. The lake was active, agitated, like a blue sea in a fairy tale.

IN good weather you can always see the seven thousandth mountain Noreen Kang 7206 m.- the keeper of Yamdrok Lake.

After Yamdrok Lake, we continue our way through a pass called glacier Carola 4825 m., which covers the mountain Zhentsinkanla 7191 m. This place keeps the gorge of the red river. Here all passing pilgrims stop to put up tarjo prayer flags and scatter lungta cards.

After the pass, the road leads us to an artificial lake-reservoir manla, height 4250 m. This lake always impresses with its unearthly green color.

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The next point of the program was the city of Gyantse with the monastery of Pelkhor Chode and Kumbum stupa. We lingered too long on the lake that when we arrived in Gyantse, the monastery was already closed. But we managed to get into the Kumbum stupa. It was nice when I asked the Lama for a sip of water in a mortar, and he poured me a glass of delicious sweet tea with milk. After visiting the stupa, I lingered below, watching the few pilgrims doing the kora around the monastery. Eduard and Sasha stayed to meditate in the Stupa and… it was closed))). Half an hour later they came down and we went to Shikaze. It was a very busy day, pleasantly tired we checked into the hotel.

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After dinner, we gathered to discuss the purpose of the trip and tune in to the main part of the Path. Everyone opened up to the group, telling them for what purpose they were going to Kailash. Then we summed up. Eduard drew everyone's attention to the fact that it is very important not to get scattered in the Places of Power, because they draw you in with their power, it is important to be able to collect yourself from these places. To be able to give a blessing and love to a place, while taking back every guise of your soul in order to walk through life whole. After the last bark, I just had the feeling that I left half of myself in the mountains, which was clearly felt throughout the year, so I tuned in to this bark differently: I will go and collect myself back. Excessive impressionability scatters particles of the soul, which is harmful for development and realization. Places are stronger than us, so we must go consciously.

The next day started with visit to Tashilumpo monastery in the city of Shikaze. In this monastery, the main one is the world's largest bronze statue of Maitreya Buddha. Soft, light, warm, radiant energy floats from it. Maitreya radiates boundless joy. We stood under his statue for about an hour, performed kora, learned mudra that destroys prejudice. To the right of the entrance to this pavilion sit Lamas reciting prayers. You can ask them to write down the names of the people for whom we want to pray, leave a donation, and they will pray. I asked them to pray for our Lama Thomei from Sera, he is in poor health, and was happy to learn that Thomei is famous even in Shikaze, he is well known, and they promised to pray for him without fail. In all pavilions of the monastery there were morning services, including the pavilion of the defenders. At the exit from the monastery, a peach fell on my head straight from a tree - a symbol of longevity - I ate it with great pleasure, it turned out to be incredibly sweet and juicy.

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From Shikaze we went to Saga where we checked into a hotel for the night. In the early morning of the next day, our path lay in Darchen at the foot of Kailash! On the way we stopped for a soulful lunch in the village of Payan. The village has grown so much, it has even become prosperous, young people have fun on motorcycles, children on bicycles, women are busy with work, men drive tractors. In Phayane, we bought fruit for the journey and for offerings to the monasteries in Kailash.

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On the way, we talked about how to behave in the Places of Power. One must certainly communicate with the earth, feel it, communicate with the mountains. During such contacts, it is important to center yourself, not to dissipate. Be sure to be aware of your task, with the bark you came. But it often happens that a person feels only the call of the Place, and even having arrived at it, he does not understand why. In this case, you need to ask the Place: “Why am I here?”.

Group behavior is very important. Often there are prefabricated races where the group members do not know each other in advance. In each group, be sure to accept each other, wish well-being to everyone. This is important for maintaining a healthy group atmosphere, giving strength, supporting weak links. Stop for a while and imagine each member of your group and mentally accept him, wish him well, ask him to accept you, this work will help you take your place in the team and help the group go through the Path of the bark without disruption, fill you with strength, as strength groups are much more active than the strength of one person.

It is also worth paying attention to the process of parting with the Place of Power: it is important to collect yourself. Leave the place your best blessings. Places of Power are so active that they can not intentionally draw us into a funnel, taking our energy, so it is important to center and leave completely collected, not to scatter the masks of your soul.

You can leave prayers in the Places of Power for those who will come so that their Path will be blessed. Sit, think, realize, thank each other for a wonderful journey together.

We saw many wild animals along the way. In summer, when it is hot, they rise higher into the mountains, and in October-November they descend lower. Many times we saw wild foxes, hares, whole herds of Tibetan antelopes, Tibetan wild donkeys and goats, cranes and eagles. It was very pleasant, the feeling that the place accepts us and opens up.

At an altitude of 4775 m, a lake opened up to us ganzhu, the lake of the concubine of the Tibetan king Gesan Wang, who, according to legend, washed in the waters of this lake. Having descended to 4600 m., we discovered Sacred Lake Manasarovar and the beautiful Mount Namunani - a magnificent seven-thousander. At every high pass, together with the driver, we exclaimed: “ Gosso! Lachzhalo!”, - which means “the gods will win”, this is such a Tibetan tradition, to pronounce these words on the peaks mountain passes. The mood became more and more joyful, because after a moment he revealed himself to us. Kailash — « precious snow peak"! All the way, I secretly asked for good weather, so that the clouds receded and there was clear visibility. And when Kailash opened, the only cloud was behind the mountain, just a miracle!

At an altitude of 4515 m we stopped for a photo in the village of Khor. From here you have a view of the Sacred Lake and sacred mountain simultaneously! Coming out of the cars for a salutatory bow to the Shrines, we were engulfed by a cold October wind, with which we agreed that tomorrow on the bark it would blow exclusively at our backs, and it was so. The weather was amazing, and the Precious Kailash (6721 m.), And the beauty Namunani(7694 m.) - Mount "Our Lady", were visible at a glance.

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For those who are interested in the peculiarities of the bark at the end of October: at this time there is no more water in Darchen (there is only imported water in buckets), the shower is closed, most of the shops, guesthouses and restaurants are closed, only the most persistent remain, and they move out one by one, by the beginning of November, almost all services are closed. The situation is the same in the kora, the stalls of locals selling tea and noodles halfway through the first and second days of the kora leave their place of work by November. We were lucky because everything we needed was still working when we were there.

The morning of the first day of the kora began with the fulfillment of my wish, made in Sir, and, completely off topic, with the news of the unfortunate death of Gaddafi. Waking up in Darchen, we had a good breakfast, the hostess of my favorite restaurant prepared a flatbread for us on the road. And we hit the road.

The weather was just wonderful, visibility was crystal clear. We stopped as always at the white chorten - the spiritual gate of the kora - to perform the ceremony. Here they hung the first flags, made a kora around the chorten three times, and, going inside with a prayer, everyone struck the bell hanging in the chorten, this is a sign that a person is entering the field of Kailash, and, as it were, announces this: “I have come!” . There were a lot of things inside the chorten: flags, items of clothing, skulls of rams, some hair and teeth, which the pilgrims did not throw away as a sign of their desire to go through the kora and begin a new spiritual existence. I was especially surprised by the corpse of a dog, peacefully resting on a pile of prayer flags near the chorten. There are a lot of dogs in those parts. They say that ardent sinners are embodied in dogs, accompanying pilgrims on the bark all their lives. This dog has chosen a good place to indulge in nirvana, I thought. She probably redeemed her bad karma in full and can safely move on.

This year, a large delegation of High Buddhist Lamas from India came to Kailash, new guesthouses and toilets were built around Kailash on the way of the kora to receive them. Those who walked the kora this year and muttered: “We built it, we came in large numbers,” know that this is being done for an increasing number of pilgrims, and not for some other (as soon as it comes to people’s heads on the kora) political goals. By the year of the horse (2014), perhaps something else will be built, because it is in the year of the horse that the largest number of pilgrims go to Kailash. It is believed that a kora performed in the year of the horse brings the most merit to the pilgrim and even counts as 13, which means partial liberation and the opportunity to break out of the wheel of samsara in one incarnation.

Our Lama says that all changes, like the construction of roads, new pilgrim shelters, and so on, are necessarily positive changes. Why? Because, as Lama says, the technical civilizational development and the development of people's spirituality are two wings of the same bird. Without the development of one of the sides, the second one alone will not lift the bird into the sky. We live in times of grandiose spiritual upsurge, when more and more people embark on the Path of development and improvement, on the Path of positive changes, therefore the everyday side also receives such a great upsurge: it should be so that more and more seeking hearts have the opportunity come here to worship and fulfill their spiritual tasks. The places are incredibly active, so they attract more and more pilgrims from year to year. It’s not worth it, having visited the Holy Place, to grumble that it all needs to be closed and isolated. Were you able to come? So why can't others? Why hide Strong Places, on the contrary, it is necessary to share the acquired experience, this is part of personal, social and planetary growth!

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Having performed the ceremony at the white chorten, we went to the Chuku monastery, where we were very warmly welcomed by two of the three Lamas living in the monastery. At our request, the Lama performed a ritual of purification and blessing on the kora, which I described in detail in the story of the kora 2010. I requested such a ritual for our dear Lama to support his failing health, and the Lama from Chuku performed this ritual again especially for Thomei. After that we put the candles on the altar and went down to the path of the bark.

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The path of the first day was unusually sunny and easy. A small breeze blew in the back. Both the Southern, Western and Northern faces of Kailash were open. Arriving at the Dirapuk Monastery, we settled in the new guesthouse rooms immediately below the monastery. My bag with offerings to the monastery had not yet arrived, but I could not resist and went to the monastery first empty-handed. Several times I managed to retire to the caves of Milarepa, where the Great Teacher spent three years, three months and three days, eating pebbles from the mountains. I managed to attend the service in the prayer pavilion of the main temple. But most of all I was touched by my meeting with Lama Ganma Qujie. I saw this Lama the last time I was at the monastery and, by the great kindness of Abbot Tenjin Nyamgal Rinpoche, I was fed with dinner and simply presented with gifts. This year, Master Tenjing Nyamgal Rinpoche was away, and I was destined to convey my gratitude for the warm welcome and blessings to his younger brother, Lama Ganma Qujie. Lama Ganma Qujie was no less kind, he received me three times that evening, and received my guests who came in our parallel group. Answered a number of questions. Gave me a lot of advice and blessed my new Path, my new bark and new life, which began from the moment I visited him. In addition, I asked him for help for our Lama Thomei, and Lama Ganma Qujie gave me a number of medicinal and other illuminated items for me to take them to Thomei. Until now, they still lie with me, because our Lama left for another examination in Beijing, but, surprisingly, the diagnosis, which was fatal three years ago, this year showed a tendency to recover! I definitely see in this all the good activities that Thomei is doing in Tibet, and the prayers for him of a large number of kind hearts, such as Lama Ganma Qujie and others ...

In parting, Lama Ganma Qujie blessed me, gave me a khadak and left his phone number, which he allowed me to call on any issue. An amazing blessing for me, I still regularly dream that I am in Dirapuk Monastery in the cell of these two High Lamas, people with huge hearts filled with real earthly kindness, simple and touching, the way kindness and service to people should be. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!