Kunashir settlements. Imperial bath on the Hot Beach. Kunashir Information About

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Nearest hotels (hotels, hostels, apartments, guest houses)

View all hotels in the area on the map

Shown above are the five nearest hotels. Among them there are both ordinary hotels and hotels with several stars, as well as cheap accommodation - hostels, apartments and guest houses. These are usually private mini-hotels of economy class. The hostel is a modern hostel. The apartment is a private apartment with daily rent, and the guest house is a large a private house, where the owners themselves usually live and rent out rooms for guests. You can rent a guest house with an all-inclusive service, a sauna and other attributes have a nice rest. Check with the owners here.

Usually hotels are located closer to the city center, including inexpensive ones, near the metro or train station. But if this resort area, then the best mini-hotels, on the contrary, are located away from the center - on the coast of the sea or river.

Nearest airports

08/16/2013 (beginning)

Tickets are bought.
Under the march "Farewell of the Slav", the ship "Igor Farkhutdinov" departed from the pier seaport the city of Korsakov and took us to new adventures and discoveries - we plan to spend two weeks on the island of Kunashir, exploring its sights.

08/17/2013 (first day - arrival)

Eighteen hours at sea and here it is - Kunashir! Yuzhno-Kurilsk met us with fog and lightly drizzling rain.
Even on the ship they figured out an approximate route. It turned out (according to the availability of roads shown on the map of the two-kilometer road) that we would have to return to Yuzhno-Kurilsk 3-4 times. The idea immediately appeared to leave part of the load in the village, so as not to carry it all the time in backpacks on the back. According to the principle: “an acquaintance of an acquaintance of my acquaintance”, a person was quickly found who was ready to allocate a corner in the working room near the port. While we were trying to quickly sort through the contents of our backpacks (allocating the essentials for 3-4 days of hiking), two other workers became interested in us. Our intention to explore the island without any guides caused them a little shock. They began to discuss our plans, criticized them to the nines (after all, we were guided only by the map, not knowing many of the features of the island) and gave us a lot of valuable advice. Now it turned out that we might not return to the village in the near future, and therefore there was no need to leave things - they might come in handy. We went outside with the intention of finding a car ready to take us towards Lake Lagunnoe (we considered it as a starting point for a trip along the southwestern coast). We turned to one, another, third ... And now good luck! The person we had already approached with a request came up to us and offered to help us at a very low price. Of course we jumped at this offer!
Along the way we met and talked. The driver made his own adjustments to our plans, in particular: we do not need to go to Lagunnoye, but it is advisable to stop at the “13th kilometer” (he explained the reasons with which we could not disagree). Moreover, Alexander (that was the name of our new acquaintance) offered us to stay in his small house on the summer cottage! In the evening, under the sound of pouring rain, we gratefully remembered the hospitable owner of the dacha.


Since the second half of the day was freed up for us, we decided to walk to Cape Stolbchaty, which was located 4 kilometers from the house. we walked along the seashore and enjoyed:






We liked the cape, but did not make the proper impression. Probably because it was raining and a rather thick fog was creeping in. Or maybe because the day was already filled with events and impressions - new ones no longer fit in us.

08/18/2013 (second day - "Ecological trail")

It's been raining since morning. We plan to visit hot springs (baths), and for this we need to get to the so-called "17th kilometer". In one backpack they threw off the things necessary for the day for all three, and hit the road. It was worth a little move away from the house, as the rain started up in full! But we, already taught by the previous trip, stocked up on light raincoats. At first, the rain pleased us a little - the dust arrived. But, soon, large and small cars flying past us doused us not with dust, but with mud. We didn’t like it very much, but we walked briskly along the road, looking at the magnificent vegetation and mountains surrounding us.





What was indicated to us as "Kilometer 17" by road signs was between 15 and 16 (as a result of the reconstruction of the road, the main route of the island has decreased by about 2 km). And, if it weren’t for the family of Muscovite tourists, we would definitely have slipped through the right turn behind which the “Ecological Trail” was located.
For more than two kilometers, we walked through the fairy forest, enchanted, looking at both familiar (but unrealistically reached) large sizes) plants, and known only by name.






And so, the forest parted, we found ourselves in a large clearing through which two streams flowed: an ordinary one and a hot one. Of course, we were interested in an unusual stream - hot water with a sulfuric smell. Caring hands cleared several holes and overlaid them with stones so that they could lie in the water, enjoying the warmth and peace.





But, one lake-bath turned out to be too tough for us - not only was the water very hot, but also the legs above the ankles drowned in mud, even hotter than water. We, in turn, tried to cross it (I really wanted to read the information on the shield), but everyone jumped out of the lake, barely taking 3-4 steps.
The rain that started up again did not let us bask any further. Cheerfully gathered, packed into raincoats and left the magical meadow. They decided not to go the same way, but across the sea, to which they had to go only about a kilometer. Along the path, which snaked now in tall grass, now in bamboo, now along the stream, we went out to the sea.


For the first two kilometers we moved calmly along the sea until we reached Cape Stolbchaty. Here we were waiting for a great "impass" as we got to the rocks in an almost full and "big" tide. The rain, fortunately for us, stopped, but rose strong wind.









We stubbornly climbed up the rocks, hugging the smooth stones and trying to find at least some kind of support for our legs and arms. The most impregnable areas were bypassed by the sea (sometimes, plunging into the water up to the chest), also clinging to the wet stones with their whole body. For our labors and efforts, we were more than rewarded with the views that opened up to us at every step, at every turn of the head ...









The walk, contrary to expectations, was not easy. But in the evening, a "bonus" was waiting for us - we were taken to a mountain by the sea, similar to the head of a spaniel, which the islanders call "Doggy". Here we were waiting for a clearing with a redberry and a magnificent sunset.

08/19/2013 (third day - Pervukhin Bay)

The sun is shining in the morning! Hooray! We decided to dedicate the day to a walk to Pervukhin Bay. We were interested in the rocks that we saw from afar, and the lakes, the existence of which the map "said". The path along the seashore, under the gentle rays of the long-awaited sun, we passed quickly. On the way, poaching gear was pulled out of the sea (most likely, it was carried away from the mouth of one of the many streams). In the tackle there were several fish of kundzha and pink salmon of different years of getting into it. Marina freed a still-living croaker from the net (it swam rather briskly). Together they pulled the heavy tackle out of the water so that it would not be dragged into the sea by the ebb tide.


Also, along the way, we made a small detour to the old (already abandoned by the border guards) coastal fortifications.




And now, in less than 5 km, we are there. Beautiful rocks merging with coastline and standing separately, with many grottoes and bizarre outlines ...



There are three large and beautiful lakes nearby: Lagunnoye, Aliger and Serebryanoye.

Unfortunately, we did not manage to bypass the entire bay - border units were located along the coast, the passage through which was, of course, prohibited. But we were not very upset and climbed the highest (of the available to us) mountain and enjoyed for about an hour magnificent views to the sea, mountains, lakes, rocks… They returned slowly. The sea beckoned to itself and we gladly lived our bodies in warm sea ​​waves. Toward evening, a surprise awaited us: an almost tropical downpour! In a few minutes, a whole bucket was filled with water. Within an hour, the rain either turned into a furious downpour, or became gentle. And here is the finale - a huge rainbow that connected the sea and the hills!

08/20/2013 (fourth day - museum)

The day is devoted to a trip to the main village of the island - Yuzhno-Kurilsk. In the morning we were pleased with the sun, but the joy was short-lived - everything around was quickly covered with fog, which became thicker and thicker. We walked along the road, looking at the lush vegetation.

The fog did not give us a good look at the village.




I would like to note the friendliness and responsiveness of the people we met: they answered our questions, advised how best to do something or go somewhere, they themselves were interested in whether they could help us with something ... We found the reserve office (what to do in thick fog was not easy), in which we had to take a pass.
We walked around the village, looked into the shops (a little expensive), found out the routes and schedules of buses, and by chance (we were looking for the administration) found out that in Yuzhno-Kurilsk there is local history museum. We couldn't miss this chance! The museum is small (consists of five halls - terrestrial nature, undersea world, volcanoes, ancient history, modern history), but very cozy and informative. We liked the exhibits, the people and the very atmosphere of the museum.






In the evening (the fog subsided) we admired the outlines of the mountains of Hokkaido and two bright lighthouses sending signals to sailors from these mountains. All this was periodically illuminated by bright flashes and zigzags of lightning - a thunderstorm was raging over Japan.

08/21/2013 (fifth day - Golovnin volcano)

Cool, windy morning. Today, according to the plan, the caldera of the Golovnin volcano. Breakfast, quick packing and we go to the "fork" to wait for the car that will take us to the reserve.






About two hours by car and we are standing at a billboard with information about the reserve. The wind completely dispersed the fog and clouds - the sun is shining, it's warm!
From the road to the volcano, about 6 km along the road, which at times resembles an abandoned path. Let's go and enjoy the view. No matter which way you turn - beauty!




About two hours of travel (mostly climbing) and we are at the observation deck - the whole caldera is in front of our eyes: two beautiful mineralized lakes Hot (larger, depth up to 62 m) and Boiling (smaller, depth 16 m), two high pyramidal domes in the center and three small ones a little to the side.
We turn onto a path overgrown with bamboo and move on (now down and rather steeply). Another 20 minutes of the move and here it is - Hot Lake - large and bright blue, smooth, like a mirror in which the sky is reflected. Nearby and a little to the side is Boiling Lake - an explosion crater - a small white-blue lake surrounded by golden sulfur spots and smoking fumaroles. The lakes are connected by a man-made canal (dug by the Japanese, who mined sulfur here) through which a small stream of blue-white water from Boiling enters Hot, forming intricate patterns in it, until the water of the two lakes mixes completely.




I didn’t want to leave, but downstairs, at a certain time, a car was supposed to be waiting, and we were already late. On the way, they broke already ripe cones, ate berries and constantly looked back, not wanting to part with the beautiful ones.

08/22/2013 (sixth day - Golovnino village)

Today we decided to visit the village of Golovnino, which is located on the very southern point islands. Rather, almost on the southernmost - behind the village is the Veslovsky Peninsula in the form of a spit (local name - Lopatka), at the end of the spit - a lighthouse. On Thursdays there is a free bus from Yuzhno-Kurilsk to Golovnino. Everything in Kunashir bus routes free. We decided to use the gift. Having already gone out onto the track, we realized that yesterday's sun was yesterday, and today it has another day off - we got into such a thick fog that the headlights of cars became visible only a few meters from us. Almost missed the bus. An hour and a half ride by bus, and now, after checking into a very small village of Dubki, we drove into Golovnino. It is even difficult to call it a village - with a dozen houses, 3 (!) shops, a pier with a bunch of rusty ships ... Nearby are two two-story buildings of a military unit.



We looked around, asked the locals for directions, and hit the road. On the way, we met a trinity of dogs who at first wanted to eat us, but then (having treated themselves to pieces of sugar from us) changed their minds and let us go further. The weather was not good - fog and drizzle. The drizzle very quickly turned into rain and fog, at the same time, it did not want to disperse. In general, we were surrounded by water from all sides, and visibility was very limited.



They rounded Lake Veslovsky and went to the Pacific Ocean. More than two hours walked along the road along Pacific Ocean in the intensifying rain, until we realized that we no longer wanted to go to the lighthouse or to the honeysuckle thickets surrounding it. Yes, and in time, it was already time to return to the village in order to catch the bus. We looked at the vague outline of the lighthouse, peering through the fog, and turned back. The path to the village took much less time, but our failures for this day did not end: the bus did not come on time, it did not come in an hour or two. It turned out that on the way it broke down and it was not possible to cope with the breakdown. We were waiting for another bus, which they promised to start up in return - a shift car arrived, but we were already so wet and cold that it didn’t matter what we were on, just to go home.

08/23/2013 (seventh day - Sour Creek)

It rained all night. I didn't want to go anywhere in the morning. But, by 10 o'clock it began to clear up and we decided not to relax - to go to the "Sour" river. It comes close to the road at the “9th kilometer”, which means: in addition to 3 km to the highway, you need to walk 4 km along the road itself, and then go upstream along the mineral river. What are we 7 km?! Let's go! Clearing up, of course, was not in a hurry, and we walk along the track like three "hedgehogs in the fog." A good person catches up with us and offers to help. Great! I had to walk 3 km less. We approach the place where the Sour River flows into another river (if I'm not mistaken - the Lesnaya River).
We are again offered help - to transport a small excavator across the river closer to the trail on a turntable. A little smeared with grease, but everyone is happy: we (the new adventure) and the excavator driver.
We did not climb ashore to the trail, we did not know about it at all. The water is quite warm (temperature above room temperature) and it is a pleasure to walk on it. We pass only 150-200 meters and here it is - a cascade of small, but beautiful waterfalls! We are approaching the miraculous steps, ledges and platforms along which water falls and flows with noise. We stop spellbound!



It makes you want to get under the jets and enjoy in this natural spa and water park. But, we decide to leave this pleasure for “later” and move on. Here the cascade was left behind, but we never cease to be surprised and delighted!







As if in a fairy tale, we walked about two kilometers and got to a new wonderful place - natural sulfur springs. Water, close to boiling water in temperature, flows down the stones to the river and mixes with cold water, forming small depressions filled with mineral water. A little touched up by people, the recesses become “baths” in which you can enjoy a hot natural bath while lying or sitting and, at the same time, admire the river, forest, mountain slopes ...




Ignoring the drizzling rain, we take off our clothes and plunge into the water of the baths, which envelops the whole body so pleasantly. Time has stopped! It was a little sad to go back - I did not want to part with such beauty.
And here again, three "hedgehogs in the fog" walk, wander along the road and discuss one or the other of the miracles they have seen.

08/24/2013 (eight day - library)

It rained all night again. No, we get up early - today there is a bus to Yuzhno-Kurilsk, and we have accumulated business and want to see the village (we found ourselves in it sometimes in the rain, sometimes in thick fog) and wander around its environs. Some of the work was completed quickly. But it is almost impossible to wander around the village and its environs - it rains incessantly, sometimes turning into a downpour. What to do? The bus to the dachas will be only in the evening. Wandering for more than seven hours in the pouring rain is unrealistic, and taxis are already expensive for us.


A brilliant idea comes to Marina: “Let's find a library! Let's spend time in the warmth and with benefit. And now we are already shaking off water from raincoats and jackets in the hallway of a small one-story house, which, it turns out, fits everything: a separate subscriber room for children and teenagers, a separate room for adults, reading room, a computer class, a conference room with a piano and a good sound system… We are warmly welcomed. We ask for books on the Sakhalin Region and, in particular, about the Kuril Islands. Very quickly, our table was filled with large and small books on the topic of interest. We are shown drawings and handicrafts from shells from local craftsmen.



We leaf through, read and look at the photos and find out the places we have already visited. We also find those that we only plan to visit. Time flew by unnoticed. Probably, it is worth saying “thank you” to the rain, thanks to which we learned so many new and interesting things.

08/25/2013 (ninth day - rain)

In the morning fog, drizzle, rain, downpour, rain ... We don’t go anywhere and look longingly at the street. By lunchtime, the weather changes a little: drizzle + wind. We go to Stolbchaty - there, next to the hills, a clean mountain stream descends, it is necessary to replenish the supply of drinking water.

08/26/2013 (tenth day - rain again)

Still the same cyclone! Outside, wind and rain turning into a downpour. By three o'clock it calms down a bit - we go towards Lake Lagunnoye. We climb the hill and see the sun in the distance. It never came to us, but we wanted to! The Kuril residents themselves say that this year's summer is unusual: as a rule, warm weather sets in from mid-August. sunny weather. And where did she go?

08/27/2013 (day eleven - "Hot Beach")

Pouring-drip stopped, but pretty cool. We decide not to waste the day and spend it on the Hot Beach. Although, it would be more correct to say: "in the village of Hot Beach, in a hydropathic clinic." We were helped to get a referral to the Yuzhno-Kurilsk hospital. We drive up to the village - it turns out - this is a military village and the entrance to it is strictly by passes or direction "to the waters." Passport is required. We walk around the village and are surprised at the name central street, and the abundance of new houses, and the number of children and mothers with strollers, and many other things we are surprised.


But finally, the purpose of our visit is a hydropathic clinic!







Nearby are two more baths and large swimming pool- the property of the military, but available to everyone.

There are almost no people. And with those who appear, there are no problems either - there are enough baths and baths for everyone. While splashing, the sky turned blue and the sun came out. Finally! And then we have already begun to forget what it looks like. hot mineral water for baths and baths gives the Mendeleev volcano. And its heat is also used to heat houses both in Goryachie Klyuchy and in Yuzhno-Kurilsk. Basking in hot water, swim in the pool, move from one bath to another, enjoy the water, communication and great views– more than 4 hours flew by unnoticed. reluctantly ends water procedures and go to the village. There is still time before the bus and we go down to the sea.




We return to ourselves on the 13th by a roundabout way: first by bus to Yuzhno-Kurilsk (For the first time we see a village without fog. From bus stop a wonderful view of the sea opens up, the Mendeleev fumaroles soar), with the same bus we go to the village of Otrada (We saw the Devil's Finger, which we couldn’t go to on Saturday because of the rain) and back and, only then, we go to the lake Lagoon. More precisely, we are not going to the lake, but to the village with the same name, and we still have to walk to the lake itself. The bus does not go further, we go. An hour and a half walk along the forest road, along the bank of a large and beautiful lake lagoon,


along the sea...
There are so many beautiful things around!

08/28/2013 (twelfth day - storm)

The morning is cool (you can feel the approach of autumn), but without rain - this is already pleasing. We hope that the weather will be good during the day and we are going to the fumaroles of the Mendeleev volcano. Alas! Our hopes were not destined to come true - while we were having breakfast and getting ready, it was raining heavily! We are sitting at home, waiting for "weather by the sea." As it happened more than once, by 15 o'clock the wind rose and the rain gradually began to subside and died down altogether. We decide, after all, not to waste the day and take a walk to Stolbchaty. Although it has been more than once, it still attracts and fascinates. We leave. We looked at the sea - everything to the horizon is covered with white lambs, but it looks quite calm. It looked like this until we went down to the shore itself - the roll was quite strong! We moved forward against the ever-increasing wind. There was already a clear storm on the sea, which, it seemed, was only gaining strength: the waves were getting bigger and hitting the shore and stones more and more.

Seagulls, sitting on the shore, from time to time rose into the air and floated across the sky against the wind, as if in a slow motion movie. We walk along the edge of the surf, wet from foam splashes. Sometimes, a particularly nimble wave takes me by surprise and douses my legs with water.


Today we did not reach our goal - Cape Stolbchaty - a storm and a rock that got in the way prevented us. In normal weather, this rock, which protrudes slightly into the sea, can be easily bypassed along the lower stone ledges. But today, waves are beating against the rock, throwing up fountains of foam and water! In order to pass the rock, one has to climb up the wet stone, but a very strong and gusty wind tries to tear the body off the rock and throw it down. We decided not to risk it.

In the evening we again admire the lights Japanese coast. Yesterday they were pillars of light (of different brightness and size) reflecting off the clouds. Today, they look more like searchlights that have directed a beam of light into the sky. During the entire stay here, "Japanese Lights" has never been the same - it is always a beautiful and bewitching vision. And two beacons flashing at different intervals only reinforce this impression.

08/29/2013 (day thirteen - Mendeleev volcano)

During the night the wind died down a bit and the sea calmed down. The Japanese mountains are partially illuminated by the sun and covered with clouds - very beautiful!

The day promises to be sunny. Hooray! We still go to the Mendeleev volcano.

We pass 7 km along the road and turn onto the forest road. We go, carefully peering into the roadside bamboo - somewhere here the path should begin, which will lead us to the fumaroles of the volcano. Found! Modest by the road, the trail quickly turns into an "elephant". We reach the "equipped" resting place and ... we lose the path. But, today, in truth, a good day - while looking for a path, an organized group of people came to the clearing, pointed to the right path and allowed them to go with them.

Part of the way passes along the old Japanese horse-drawn road. It is fairly overgrown, but walking is more or less convenient. It is much harder when they "straightened" the path and when the "horse" was over. But, even on steep climbs, wading through the bamboo managed to see a lot of interesting things. Old fir trees in 2-3 girths are especially striking.





An hour and a half later we approach the goal of our trip - the fumarole field of the Mendeleev volcano.









The leader of the organized group offers those who wish to climb to the top of the volcano, adding that the road is very difficult and should take about an hour and a half. The ascent is indeed very difficult: part of the trail passes through high thick bamboo, part almost vertically upwards, and part vertically and through bamboo. The situation is aggravated by slippery, limp after frequent heavy rains priming. You have to spend a lot of effort just to stay on a steep slope, but you still have to move forward and up! The result was worth the effort, the view from the top of the volcano is amazing and amazing!





At the top of the volcano, someone recently installed an Orthodox cross. We decide to do our bit - we surrounded the mound with stones and put aside the remaining "construction" and "rest" debris.

The descent takes an hour and is no less difficult than the ascent. Once again we go around the fumarole field and set off on the way back.






Moving along the route, we admire the outlines of the Tyatya volcano, which "opened" to us for the first time.

Sunset over Japan completes this wonderful day.

08/30/2013 (fourteenth day - a come true sign)

Rain! Rain again! It drizzles, then it intensifies. It calms down for a while and starts watering again. The excitement at sea is increasing. And here is the “good” news - due to weather conditions, the arrival of the ship is delayed for at least a day. Stuck?

08/31/2013 (fifteenth day - "additional")

During the night the rain stopped, the clouds dispersed, and the storm intensified. It was impossible to sleep because of the roar of the surf.
We are going to go to Yuzhno-Kurilsk, because. food ran out, and the departure date was pushed back. In the village, we observe the work of the artist painting the second part of the panorama near the central square.
Things were done quickly. Our new friends Alexander and Lyubov helped us get to the natural attraction of Fr. Kunashir - Devil's finger (the islanders call this place "Devil"). Actually two fingers. They are separated by a large rock that extends far into the sea.





At the Devil's finger I realize the opportunity to "swim" in the Pacific Ocean. Good news: a ship is expected tomorrow. Pleasant? On the one hand, I already want to go home, where relatives and friends are waiting. On the other - so sorry to part with it beautiful island, its beauties and people.

09/01/2013 (day sixteen - farewell)

Cloudy morning, but we no longer pay attention to drizzle and fog - we pack our backpacks and rush to the bus. We look around - how everything has become familiar and close. It seems like we've been living here for a long time. Longing squeezes the heart - we will leave now, and nothing will change around: the sea will beat against the shore and rocks, the "Dog" will rest by the sea, Japanese lights and beacons will shine and blink, the sun will rise over the Lagoon Lake, the Fish Owl will hoot along at night in the forest, foxes yelp in the ravine ...


All. Bus. We sit down. We are greeted by people who have already become familiar. They smile at us and, seeing the big backpacks, wish us a good journey and good luck. We go to Tretyakovo. Everyone, except for the three of us, goes to the village, and we examine the surrounding vegetation. Oh, Kunashir, you surprised us every day! Even on this day, the day of farewell to the island, he managed to surprise. What is this tree? We have not seen such trees so far.


We are going to Yuzhno-Kurilsk and understand how many familiar places have become! How much, despite the fogs and rains, we were able to visit-see-pass ... We are happy! The ship is delayed until the evening and we are again taken under guardianship by Alexander and Lyubov, who during these two weeks have become not just friends, but very dear people. Abandoning their affairs and forgetting about the rest, they take care of us all day - feed, tell interesting stories, carry by car to the surrounding beautiful places. They wanted to get to the Vinay River, which is in the north of the island, but they didn’t succeed, because. the road was washed out and muddy. It's a pity! It's a pity! Northern part The islands have remained a mystery to us. On the way, we are told so many interesting things, moreover, such that you will not find in reference books and guidebooks, which is based on your own experience and is adorned with personal impressions and emotions.








This day has come to an end. The last day of our two-week trip to the island of Kunashir. Marine Station. Farewell to friends. Motor ship. March "Farewell of the Slav". Shore hospitable island, which has become native, is deleted. The sea is a little rough.

The coast is no longer visible. Black-and-white backs of curious dolphins flicker near the side of the ship.

The Kuriles are like a beautiful woman,
which is only open to
who is really interested in her...

Kunashir is the southernmost of the Kuril Islands.
The area is 1490 km², length - 123 km, width - from 4 to 30 km.
The island is part of the Yuzhno-Kurilsky district of the Sakhalin region of Russia. The center is the urban-type settlement of Yuzhno-Kurilsk (population 5751 inhabitants, 2002).
Other settlements with approximate distances from Yuzhno-Kurilsk: Otrada (4 km., formerly the central estate of the Dalniy state farm); Lagunnoye (7 km., military unit); Hot Beach (8 km., border detachment, entry is limited, geothermal hydropathic); Mendeleevo (24 km., airport); Dubovoe (50 km.), Golovnino (54 km.); holiday village Tretyakovo.

visit
The entire territory of the island is a border zone. For entry, non-residents must obtain a pass at the Sakhalin Border Administration (Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk). In addition to this, the southern (from the Sernovodka river) and northern (from the Tyatinka river) parts of the island are the territory of the South Kuril Reserve; For tourist trips you need to get a pass at the administration of the reserve in Yuzhno-Kurilsk.

Attractions
There are four volcanoes on the island: Tyatya (1819 m., symbol of the island); Rurui (1486 m.); Mendeleev (887 m.) and Golovnin (541 m.)
In the caldera of the Golovnin volcano, there are lakes Boiling and Goryacheye. There are numerous fumaroles on the shores of Lake Boiling and in the lake itself.

The island has many hot springs of volcanic origin. They are mainly concentrated on the slopes of the Mendeleev volcano, where most of them serve as equipped (Hot Beach) or wild (Sour Creek, Rosinka) resting places. There is also a fumarole field and a geothermal power plant. Separate sources are found on the Okhotsk (Alyokhino, Tretyakovo, 17th kilometer, Rudnoye) and Pacific (Seagull) coasts.

UNESCO natural monument - basalt rocks of Cape Stolbchaty. From the island you can see the Japanese peninsula of Shiretoko.

Once these places were inhabited by the Ainu tribe. The tribe is mysterious, little studied. Scientists still cannot come to a common opinion about its origin. The Ainu did not have a written language, and Slavic, Aryan and Japanese roots unexpectedly mixed in the language. The Ainu had many legends and traditions. There were even special storytellers in the villages, for whom keeping ancient legends was not a job or a hobby, but an honorary right given only to the most deserving.
For example, the Ainu believed that their people appeared in this way. A long time ago, a young man wondered why he lives in this world? And went to long way- look for answers. Once he stopped for the night in the house where she lived beautiful girl. The girl told the young man that the news of his arrival had already arrived. The next day, the young man set off again and again stopped for the night in the house where a beautiful girl lived - the sister of the previous one. And again the girl told the young man that the news about him had already come. On the third day, the young man spent the night with the third - the younger sister. In the morning, the girl showed the young man the way through three mountains to the fourth mountain - the largest, on top of which there is a golden house. And she said that in this house he would find out why he lives. The young man crossed three mountains, climbed the fourth and entered the golden house. There he was met by a man and told that the young man was destined to become a parent for all people on earth. And those three girls who gave him lodging for the night were goddesses - the morning star, the midnight star and the evening star. Each of them will bear him a child. From them the human race will go on earth. This is such a beautiful legend.

Topographic map of Kunashir Island

On Sakhalin and Kunashir - the velvet season, here it is a wonderful time, and therefore travelers tend to the islands. It's time to relax and gain impressions: the summer bright colors of nature have already departed, autumn motifs appear in the palette, at the same time it is still warm. There are still a lot of tourists, souvenirs in South Sakhalin shops sell out on the fly, and it seems that in terms of assortment it has become much more diverse than at the beginning of summer.

Again we go to the Kuriles from the Kuril travel company, now in sightseeing tour"Warm welcome in Kunashir". Once again the port of Korsakov has undergone pleasant changes - new chairs for passengers to relax have been installed in the waiting room. There are still many of the latter - who go to travel, who return home, and who go on business trips.

A busy working life is going on in the port, but now its water area is decorated with a snow-white a cruise ship- Korsakov also accepts cruises. This means that today the streets of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk will be flooded Foreign tourists that they came to see a wonderful city.

Today we have different paths - for them to Sakhalin, and for us - to Kunashir. You can visit this island of volcanic origin many times, and each time you will discover something new. Probably, we will have to do this, although some of the routes are already known. The company is new - guests from Moscow, Novosibirsk and Ulan-Ude. Preferences are different. One is interested in the Pacific Ocean and swimming in its waters, the other is interested in Kunashir in general, the third is the opportunity to take a photo unique places. There is also a botanist in the group, it is important for him to learn new plants. We were all attracted by Kunashir, and he will give everyone the opportunity to get what they want.

Motor ship "Igor Farkhutdinov" - hard worker! Barely moored, unloaded, loaded and now again heading for Southern Kuriles. And so he walks between the islands all year round, providing for their livelihoods, although now, it seems, the fatigue accumulated by the end of the summer season is already felt.

Dinner brings passengers to a restaurant, where you can eat well and chat. Moreover, there is already a recipe for motion sickness and seasickness - the Kunashir people passed on the last trip - before the trip you need to eat something salty.

Travelers prefer seafood: when else will they have the opportunity to try and eat them. On Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands, they are exalted by visitors, perhaps because there are many of them, they are diverse and fresh. In the fish markets of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk there is halibut, pink salmon, chum salmon, coho salmon, herring, flounder, cod, saffron cod, pollock, smelt, scallop, trumpeter, squid, octopus, crab, shrimp - this is just what comes to mind offhand. Seafood is also on the menu of the ship's restaurant, and fried halibut with vegetables and scallop in mustard sauce are of greater interest. Yummy!

The night on the ship passes calmly, and by 11 o’clock the captain’s command sounds: “Mooring team get ready for mooring!”.

Moored…

This time our company was accepted by the "Hot Beach", interests by interests, but we all came with one common goal - to improve our health in the thermal springs of the Mendeleev volcano. About these sources have been read for a long time, and there is confidence that they will help improve health. They say that absolutely healthy people do not exist, therefore, even just for preventive purposes, thermal baths should be taken. The therapeutic department of the South Kuril hospital is located in the "Hot Beach", it heals with water local population, and also provides paid services to those who need these waters. The direction for taking healing baths is received at the hospital, and there is only one difficulty - the medical department is located on the territory of the Hot Beach village, and a pass is needed to enter. There is about a kilometer from the checkpoint to the baths, so it is preferable to drive up to them.

For those who care about taking a dip in the thermal springs, we would like to inform you that there are taxis in Yuzhno-Kurilsk that have special passes and, by choosing one, you can go directly to the springs. This is important because after bathing it is desirable to rest. And those who improve their health directly in the "Hot Beach" live right there, and their routine is special: hydrotherapy is, first of all, and the rest later!

The waters here are unique, there are various incredible stories of healing among the locals. For example, complex cases of eczema and psoriasis. Or recovering from a broken leg. Or improving the condition of the fingers with arthritis. And for the residents of Yuzhno-Kurilsk, bathing is an obligatory favorite procedure, and they take it all year round.

It should be noted that the Kunashir people are generally lucky - there are many healing springs, and local folk experience in the use of water has already been accumulated. And here it is customary to take thermal baths on the Kislom stream, on Stolbovsky springs, on Rosinka and in other places.

We are lucky too! There are five springs in the hospital, and each one is taken to the bath, four of them are under open sky. In general, this is a cool activity - to lie in a warm or hot bath, feel how the water touches the skin, and look at the sky or at the greenery of the pines surrounding the spa. It somehow comes into contact with eternity, and it is here that it becomes fully clear what bliss and relaxation mean - this is how pleasant recovery goes. Here there is an immersion in natural energy, and you want to stay in it for a long time, but you need to know the measure in this - the waters here are very strong, so it is important to follow the rules for taking baths. In the "Hot Beach" not only water heals, but the place itself, there is no fuss here, the stream is always babbling, its gentle talkativeness relaxes and pacifies. And the whole world around seems to be resting.

And at night, birds sing all night around the hospital, however, on the first night, out of habit, this does not allow you to sleep, but then you get used to it, and sleep with live singing becomes necessary for health.

The balneological significance of thermal springs on the territory of the hydropathic resort of the village of Hot Beach is determined by high temperature, high content of silicic acid, hydrogen sulfide and carbon dioxide. As well as the presence of a number of components with biological activity - iron, bromine, iodine, zinc, etc. These waters are used externally and internally, they are recommended for the treatment of diseases of the musculoskeletal and nervous systems, gynecological diseases, skin diseases, vein diseases, diseases kidneys, anemia, metabolic disorders, diseases of the stomach, liver, gallbladder, etc.

And the whole island of Kunashir itself is perfect place to improve health: here is clean water, clear sky, clean air, filled with fine healthy vibes of the forest on the island and iodine on the coasts of the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of ​​Okhotsk. And there are many interesting natural places that can arrange a positive shake-up. And that is why everyone who recovers in the "Hot Beach" strives to fully immerse himself in the healthy atmosphere of the island, to dissolve in it, to feel like a part of nature. We will also dive and start from the Pacific coast.

At low tide we go for a walk along the shore. The ocean grumbles, rolls in waves, you can study shells on the littoral, they sit clinging to the stones. A golden path runs from the sun across the water, and ships stand in the distance. Idyll! The strength of the ocean is incredible, its waves easily move huge pellets - these are stones of volcanic origin of different colors - black, brown. Perhaps once upon a time they were pointed, but the waves worked on them and carefully wiped their sides.

We choose a large ebb on purpose - we still want to find an imperial bath. Local resident Galina helps here, she often takes this bath to improve her health. The bath is really like a real one, you can lie down in it and enjoy the water that fills it from thermal spring beating from the bottom. At high tide, there is no communication between the bath and the ocean and the water in it is hot, and when the tide begins, the water gradually covers the bath, and it cools. I wonder if the crown prince of Japan, Hirohito, was really here? Some say - it was, others were not, but if it was, then it certainly did not fail - this bath is worth taking! It is interesting that corals grow here on the rocks, next to the bath, apparently, the water here is special.

It’s impossible to walk far at low tide, local vacationers warn that over there, behind the stream, a hundred and fifty meters away, they saw a bear with two cubs. This means that we will not go beyond the stream, we have already learned that, according to natural cycles, bears have now moved to the mouths of rivers and streams in order to profit from fish going to spawn, but there are no fish, therefore animals roam everywhere in search of food. Why there is no fish, everyone says differently. Some believe that this is due to the earthquake, as if after earthquakes fish do not want to go into rivers and streams, others say that there are few fish because there are no fish hatcheries, and still others are sure that spawning has not yet begun. But be that as it may, we will not go to the bears, but we will go to the place where the hot beach occupied almost a whole kilometer of the coast, where the sand gurgled under the pressure of hot water and gas jets. After the earthquake, there is no former activity here, but there is a smooth Sandy shore you can sunbathe or swim.

Local girls soar in a bathhouse on the shore, and then jump into the ocean, play with the waves, the squeak is still there. We are playing with the ocean, and what is interesting is that if you stand in one place for a long time, then the waves wash the sand out from under your feet, they sink deeper and deeper, and there is a very hot layer inside - you can get burned. It didn’t leave, which means that the hot beach, but simply hid in the depths. And in some places on the shore, tiny sandy fountains gurgle and the air is filled with sulfur dioxide. I wonder if you put a raw egg in such a fountain, will it cook or not? Or put a pot of water, boil? It’s better not to walk barefoot here, you can easily scald your feet. There are a lot of impressions, they were fed through all the organs of perception, after such walks I sleep well.

Our life is full and healthy: taking baths in the morning and evening, and in the afternoon, if possible, short excursion around the island. If you have climbed so far from the mainland to distant lands, then you want to explore the island. The fumarole field of the Mendeleev volcano, the caldera of the Golovnin volcano, Cape Stolbchaty - we have already been here on the last trip, we will not describe in detail.

We go to the fumaroles in drizzling rain, the weather fails, but we want to travel. Water flows not only from the sky, but also from bamboo leaves, which are taller than human growth. And as we emerge from the forest to the slope of the ravine, where the Sour Creek flows, the sun is right there, as if specially waiting to dry and please with warmth. Kunashir is a special island, and the weather matches it. The birch foliage on the slopes of the volcano turns yellow, from a distance it is like a patchwork quilt with various shades of yellow-green flowers. Beautiful!

Now to the caldera. On the way to Golovnino we visit a special tree, it is called differently: "tree of love", "tree of happiness", "tree of wish fulfillment".

The driver Vladimir, who has been living in Kunashir for the fifth decade, says that this tree is revered as the owner of the island and, passing by, you must definitely stop and greet him, then there will be luck. And if there is a desire, then you need to tie a ribbon on a branch and make a wish - it seems to come true. Newlyweds visit this place on their wedding day and ask for a happy family life. Like this. And immediately Vladimir laments - the road to Golovnino is being strengthened, the builders are already thirty meters from the tree and there is a fear that it may die.

It is impossible to destroy such a tree - it is a relic pointed yew, it is probably three hundred years old, it is listed in the Red Book of Russia. Therefore, away with personal desires now, and most importantly - that the builders save the tree, and it remains to live. This is what we guess. And it would be nice to put the tree in order - to make a special perch where people will tie their bundles, making wishes, as is now done everywhere in natural places who are considered saints. It would be nice to have a bench nearby to sit and think about the meaning of life. And free the branches of the tree from the bundles, because the trees die from them over time. And now everything is hung on it, even socks, as if the tree needs these decorations. It is beautiful in itself - the trunk is powerful, and one branch is intricately curved - an unusual yew. And there are two more nearby.

From the top, from where the dangerous section of the road, nicknamed "mother-in-law's language", begins, the south of the island is clearly visible, and this time the weather allows you to see the village of Golovnino and the famous Veslo Cape, which has an amazing shape in the form of an oar, albeit from afar.

Given the influx of travelers, the Kurilsky Reserve made "Recommendations for going to a tourist route"and" Memo to the tourist. "It is very convenient. It becomes clear how to dress and put on shoes and what to take with you when you go to ecological trails. And now you know that when you meet a snake, you can not be afraid of it: here snakes (Japanese, scaly, island) and they are not poisonous.How to protect yourself from ticks, how to avoid burns with mustard gas, and even look at a photo of it to find out in the forest.And of course, what to do when you meet a brown Kunashir bear.

Bears have appeared in the Golovnin caldera, and therefore it is important for us to know how to make paths with them. The memo was studied, everything is clear, although one idea seems funny: "In a pinch, climb a tree and wait until the bear loses interest in you and leaves." Although the branches of Kunashir trees often start low and you can climb on them, but where can you find that bear, which climbs a tree more slowly than a person.

On that day, several groups went to the caldera - everything was calmer, but the advice of the reserve's specialists was applied - when approaching an unobserved section of the road, they began to talk as loudly as possible. Kunashir clubfoot is smart, he will hear, quickly get out of the way and leave, he himself does not climb to a person. In general, here on the island, unlike other places where bears live, they are perceived in a special way. Here they are masters, and it is desirable for a person not to violate the boundaries of their habitat, then life will be peaceful. And by the number of stories already heard about meeting them on the island, it is clear that this animal loves to simply look at a person, because we also want to see this creature in nature, they, apparently, are also studying us.

In autumn, the caldera of the Golovnin volcano is perceived differently - it seems cozy, as if life has increased in it. Only now the hungry chipmunks have clicked all the cones from the cedar dwarf - there is only one husk on the ground. And there is still a lot of shiksha, I don’t want to eat, but it’s kind of tasteless, although it quenches thirst well.

This time they also found a place where a Japanese sulfur evaporation plant used to stand. Every time the island shows something new.

At the exit from the caldera, Kunashir gave the guests a surprise: knowing that we wanted to try scallop, local resident Vladimir brought it to us directly from his shop in Golovnino, what a service!

By the way, you can also buy octopus and shrimp there. We report this solely because it is more difficult with seafood in Kunashir than on Sakhalin, and many people want to eat them, and they go so far for this.

... This time we go to Cape Stolbchaty on foot at low tide from the dachas at the 13th kilometer. And while the fish soup is being prepared for us on the shore, we climb into the very interior of the cape, enjoy the magnificence of this work of the Mendeleev volcano, and then return at high tide. The journey is only four hours, but each step is perceived in a new way and adds new impressions. The Sea of ​​Okhotsk is restless, a wave rolls on the shore, carries algae and shells. And over there on the shore a big fish is lying without a head, as if one of the clubfoot tried hard, they eat the heads of the fish going to spawn. And over there, in the stream, the fish itself pushes its way up with all its might in order to lay eggs and prolong its life through fry. But such a fish is a target for many, and suddenly a seagull rushes at it and knocks out its eye with one blow of its beak. That's because natural selection in nature - who is stronger, he is alive. The wounded female does not have enough strength to fight for life, and the eggs spread over the stones and are washed away by the stream into the ocean. Everything on the island is very natural, and much of nature can be seen without trying to change anything. For example, duck flocks flying in a wedge for wintering, gray herons standing on the shore, a red fox by the side of the road, waiting for someone passing by to throw something tasty.

But back to the ear. As elsewhere, the process of its preparation is interesting, and it is very tasty. But in the ear, something else is important here - the transformation of the process of cooking and eating into the process of communication. There are different people in Kunashir, there are those who were born here and live here. There are those whom fate brought like a feather in the wind of change, and he stayed in Kunashir and accepted it as his home. One of them is Sanych, the creator of the soup that tourists eat and praise with pleasure. There is, however, a nuance: Sanych lives in Kunashir, and prepares Astrakhan soup, triple, and while he is standing by the fire, he does not allow anyone to approach the boiler, the creator of the soup should be alone. “Thank you for coming to Kunashir, showing interest in our life,” he says, “and now you know that this is not the end of the world, but a good place. Here is the beginning of Russia, and here the sun rises every day, and every day it is different. And we are all welcome here. Now let’s call another bear and feed him too.”

Behind the ear, if in the mood, you can talk about a lot. About Russian men who are strong and unpredictable, about the army and our Kuril Islands. In Russia, every second person is a philosopher, and there is always something to think about.

By the way, about the fish. Although the island is famous for the fact that there should be fish here, it was possible to find it only in the store, so when going to Kunashir, you do not need to dream of fish cuisine. The advice is this - it is better to eat seafood on Sakhalin, and Kunashir is attractive to others - nature, springs and volcanoes.

And the Kunashir people are very friendly people, and this is evident to the guests of the island. For example, among the locals it is customary to greet each other, and this applies to guests. When someone greets you for the first time, it seems that a person has misunderstood, but when several people and even representatives of the Japanese delegation that arrived on a visa-free exchange greet you, you understand that this is the norm, and you yourself also adopt the habit. The island is small and it is impossible to be isolated from others on it.

... We are returning from Stolbchaty. On the slope of the Mendelevva volcano, above the village of Hot Beach, jets of hot steam beat, and under the wind blowing from the ocean, they lean to the side. “The weather will not be very good tomorrow, it will be cloudy and rainy,” says the driver Vladimir, he noticed long ago that if the wind blows from the north, wait for good weather, and if from the ocean, it will rain, and if the steam jets go vertically upwards, this is to stable weather. Interestingly, all the remaining days they looked at these jets, wanting to know what would happen tomorrow, and they never failed. And even on Friday, September 12, when Kunashir was expecting a cyclone, and many the islands by plane or left on the ship "Polaris", the weather was good, but on the eve, September 11, steam jets stretched upwards from the Mendeleev volcano. The cyclone passed by the island.

... We are still traveling, now to Lake Lagunnoye, this is also a local attraction, edible freshwater mollusks live in it. And to the rock Sail.

I haven’t heard any legends and charming stories connected with it, but it’s desirable to see it. Very a nice place! The rock itself is of volcanic origin and stands on the shores of the Sea of ​​Okhotsk, like a giant sail. A fishing camp is located at the foot, opposite a fishing boat is now standing in the sea. Looking at him, Vladimir talks about how sea fishing is conducted in general and about silver saury in particular.

As you come close to the rock, so its power and strength is felt. What happened many years ago on this earth, how nature worked, which manifested itself in these amazing traces of volcanic activity - you can only guess about this, but you need to capture these bizarre patterns woven by volcanic lava as a keepsake.

We're leaving, goodbye, Kunashir! The sea is restless, the ship "Igor Farkhutdinov" arrived late. We are waiting in the building of the seaport. Receipt boarding passes, loading onto the ship, the march "Farewell of the Slavyanka" before departure, and we are hit by a tugboat that takes the ship out of the bay, and we are on the road again. We go through Shikotan. We can't moor in Malokurilskaya Bay for a long time - the wind is strong, and the ship has a large windage, and the mooring team gets it. But then, finally, the board of the ship pressed against the pier, the ladder was thrown out and the Shikotans rush to meet them.

Probably, such situations happen here often, and maybe they are even more complicated. It's harsh natural edge, and to live here, you need to have endurance, patience and just physical strength. Well, for us, travelers, it is simply interesting to observe, to see what we have not seen before.

Loaded, received new passengers, the ship is heading to the exit from the bay, at night the loud-mouthed gulls fly after it, they say they will fly like this for the light of the ship, and tired, they will sit down on the water. Nastya, the wife of a serviceman, appeared in our cabin, she is in an interesting position, so she immediately fits into bed - you need to take care of yourself and the life of the baby that grows under your heart. We learn that women in labor are sent to the Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk maternity hospital, and before that they have to be observed not only in the local hospital, but also in the regional one. For example, to go there for an ultrasound scan, where Nastya is going now.

But a new hospital is currently being built in Krabozavodskoye, perhaps, with its opening, new opportunities will appear in medical care for the inhabitants of the islands.

For dinner, the same yummy - fried halibut. The sea is restless, it shakes, but we are already seasoned - the third time we travel on the "Igor Farkhutdinov".

The night passes calmly, and in the morning dawn lights up over the sea, one of 365 sunrises in a year, which from this land marks the beginning of a new day in Russia.

My adventures in the Kuril Islands were among the most memorable. You have no idea how long I dreamed of visiting this majestic place. The furious Sea of ​​Okhotsk has lured more than one tourist with its beauty. I visited the island of Kunashir.

How to get to Kunashir island?

The road was quite long. For 8 hours on the plane, I managed to sleep 2 times, eat once and win several chess tournaments on the tablet. The flight, of course, is essential. But all the difficulties associated with the road are just nonsense, compared to my dreams and the expectation that I will now see a wonderful and mysterious place. Can you imagine? You fly, fly and land in Russia again. That is, he flew only to Sakhalin. This is how vast our Motherland is.

After landing in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, I took a regular bus to the pier and boarded a ship that goes to the island of Kunashir. By the way, tourists take note. The ship goes to the island only 2 times a week, so plan your arrival carefully so as not to waste time.

It takes almost a day to get to the islands by sea, but it's better than waiting for good weather to fly by plane. It's almost always very bad weather and with flights, of course, tension. Weather very unpredictable here. The sun was just about to shine, and a few minutes later the sky was covered with clouds and a heavy downpour began.

Well, here I am in Kunashir

Kunashir Island is the southernmost kuril island. It is also called the black earth. It consists of three rocky ridges. The peak of the island is Tyatya volcano. The length of Kunashir is about 125 kilometers. The island is washed Sea of ​​Japan and the Pacific Ocean.

On a note: To visit the island you need to get a special pass, as it is border area And free entry on the island is prohibited.

The roads on the island are just terrible, all broken, in some places pieces of asphalt. Before the trip, I found a girl on the Internet who agreed to give me shelter and introduce me to the island. Nowadays, couchsurfing is practiced everywhere. This is when people different countries of the world invite tourists from other countries to live for free, in exchange for the fact that someday they will also be able to come to visit you. My friend's name is Anna. She has been living in the Kuril Islands since birth and can tell a lot of interesting things. Anna told me that asphalt might be laid here this year. I really hope, because it is simply impossible to walk through such pits. And, if you drive, then only in cars with very high traffic.

With Anna, we drove to the edge of the island. We stood on the coast. There was a storm on the sea and a strong wind that almost knocked down. Oh, this is not how I imagined the island of Kunashir, oh, not like that. Well, what to do? I will explore the local beauty. In the village, most of the houses are low-rise, and this is no accident, because earthquakes happen here periodically. Everything is somehow gray, dank, and even this incessant rain! But despite the nuances, the Kuriles are very beautiful. Here, the earth and the raging water element somehow coexist.

I would especially like to note that the air here is very clean, around impregnable mountains and the seething sea, which both feeds the locals and punishes them. Periodically, fishermen do not return to their native land.

sea ​​fishing

Anna offered to show me how the fish is caught here. Sea fishing is very exciting, and I immediately agreed. The captain of the fishing boat turned out to be the brother of a friend of mine. Huge ship was at the pier. But despite the promise of a storm, the fishermen needed to get back to fishing. After all, if you came with a catch, then you will be with money. But no - so back to the elements.

The ship is just huge, lots of compartments and a big crew. There is also a female cook who prepares goodies for all fishermen. I also discovered a wonderful sauna, where you can warm up chilled bones and even take a steam bath. Can you imagine? Sauna on a fishing boat. Never would have thought.

They also showed me the local laundromat. There are washing machines and dryers that sailors use on their own. How else? After all, they go to sea for several weeks and life must be organized at the level.

It's foggy and drizzling outside, but the sailors don't care. The Kuriles are the backyards of the empire, as Pikul wrote. And this one actually is. Late in the evening we came across a school of fish. The sailors began to trawl. Interesting. And everyone is very happy, because the well-being of sailors and their families depends on the catch here. When the seine was raised, I was simply dumbfounded. How many fish there were! Very, very many.

I came across cod, and pollock, and goby. The catch is immediately filtered and frozen.

By noon the next day, a boat came for me and Anna, and we set off for Earth. For a long time, this fishing and the fate of these people did not go out of my head. What good fellows they are, and even despite the constant closed space on the ship and hard physical work, they remained cheerful and positive.

Does the boiling lake in the Kuriles really boil?

We arrived on the island by boat and headed to the Boiling and Hot lakes, where there is a wonderful nature reserve. There Anyuta introduced me to the guide Ekaterina. Katya told me about local animals, plants and insects. I saw two wonderful deep lakes with the purest water.

There is so much greenery in the reserve. Here, the incongruous is so unusually combined. Far Eastern climate with tropical, northern winds with the southern sun. Here is one parallel with Sochi. That is why you can hear the singing of cicadas here and the sun's rays are so hot that it's time to take off your jacket and warm yourself. Around the bamboo thickets that save the island from being washed into the water.

He, like a dense mesh, digs his roots into the ground, and even after heavy rains, does not slide into the sea is not a piece of soil. The hydrangea is in bloom here. These lush flowers stand out especially among the riot of greenery.

And the lakes are so named precisely because one of them really boils like a pot over a fire, even steam spreads. A hot lake is just hotter. You can also take good mud baths here, but I didn’t fool around with this. Since I wanted to see as much as possible, but there was not so much time.

By the way, Ekaterina said that quite recently poisonous snakes appeared on the island, which had never been here before. And poisonous spiders were also discovered, which also did not understand how they ended up on the island. And all these bastards now live comfortably here and actively breed. Spiders are tarantulas. Moreover, they live in minks on the seashore, and exactly where all people rest. Scary.

But the truth is, I did not expect that after the Kuriles unkindly met me, I would be able to see some local beauties. But on Boiling, all my fears dissipated like smoke. I saw that the Kuriles are not only harsh and formidable, but also green, tender and blooming.

How bears steal fish from fishermen

In the evening, Ekaterina's husband treated us to a gorgeous fish soup made from freshly caught fish. As it turned out, he recently returned from fishing with a good catch. But he also complained that now they have to bring prey less, since the bears and seals have learned to break the nets and poach the caught fish into the impudent poking.

I was so taken aback by this story. I immediately imagined how a bear, looking around like a thief, creeps like a plastun to the nets. Then he gnaws them, throws the fish into the bag and runs into the den. When I voiced my thoughts, the whole company laughed in unison. But the fact remains that animals have also learned to keep up with the times. Most often, bears do this to feed their cubs.

Where can you fish with your hands?

In the morning I had a tour around the island on a boat. I also saw several rivers. Here they are short and shallow, that is, not above the knee. And in the sea shoals of salmon, which went to spawn. And in this regard, there were bears on the shore, which now have a lot of food. And therefore, they, like real gourmets, ate only fish heads, and the rest of the fish just lay on the shore.

To see how the bears catch fish is not an opportunity for every tourist. A little further away, we landed on the shore, and I saw fish in the river, which was terrifying here, how many. Huge salmon could easily be grabbed by hand. It's just incredible. Enchanting. I grabbed fish with such excitement that I didn’t even notice how I scooped full boots of water. When the first enthusiasm passed, I realized that I was quite cold.

After the walk, we went home to warm up and take a steam bath. The brooms here are mostly bamboo and smell like grass. How wonderful after such a busy day, just like that to warm up and drink tea with raspberries.

By the way, the locals learn Japanese and love Japanese beer. The language is taught by the Japanese themselves, and for free. And it's amazing.

Volcano Tyatya

I stayed in Kunashir for another day to see the Tyatya volcano. The territory of this volcano is the territory of bears. I went here with a guide. The place is very dangerous. You need to move quite carefully and listen to all the sounds. And be sure to follow the path. As we walked, I was very nervous and scared. As the guide said, we can only get to the Otvazhny volcano. He is closer. As we emerged from the bamboo thickets, we came across a black desert.

As it turned out, it burned out all the vegetation during the eruption of the Brave. 15 meters of lava underfoot. Here is something. In speed we reached the crater. There was such a terrible wind that knocked me off my feet. But all these difficulties and dangers were worth it to see this wild and unexplored nature.

Cape Stolbchaty on Kunashir

The most spectacular place in Kunashir is Cape Stolbchaty. Here, huge boulders stick out of the water. You need to pass here along a narrow path that winds like a snake. Scary to the point of losing consciousness. No insurance. At every turn, the hair just stands on end, but it is no longer possible to turn back, only go forward. Somewhere I walked, but somewhere I honestly crawled and quietly prayed not to fall into the abyss. And you can’t be hysterical and talk scary. I just wanted to cry and still admit that I am a weak girl, and not a commando.

With my brain, of course, I understood that if I break loose and crash into the sea, then the brave guides will try to save me, but the chances are not enough. You know, this is such a surge of emotions and adrenaline that, having walked along this narrow strip of land, you begin to appreciate every minute of your life. To be honest, I recovered from this shock only after they poured a glass of vodka into me.

The hot, nasty liquid burned his throat and emotions began to switch. Half an hour later, I was already laughing with might and main at my fears. But somewhere in the depths of the soul, this animal horror remains, which creeps into the body and makes the arms and legs go numb. And to all the brave souls who were able to pass this test, I sincerely wish all the best and I can consider them almost brothers in arms. The weapon in this case is strength of mind and determination.

Also, amazingly hospitable and sincere people live here. I have traveled so many places in my life that are on our globe, but rarely did fate bring me together with such incredible and sympathetic people.

Kunashir will remain in my heart forever.

I realized that I would never see such stunning beauty again in my life. This wild nature untouched by man. I will carry these memories throughout my life, trying not to spill a single drop.