A natural monument is the southern shore of Lake Ilmen (Ilmensky Glint). One of the most beautiful places in Russia. Ilmen (lake): rest, fishing and reviews of tourists

Ilmen - unusual lake. Its height above sea level is 18 m. The basin of the lake is so shallow and indistinct, and the water exchange is so fast that in former times Ilmen was mistaken for the flood of the Lovat, Pola, Meta and Shelon rivers. During the year, the water in Ilmen changes six times. The greatest depth of Ilmen at an average water level does not exceed 4.5 m, and the area of ​​its water surface, which reacts violently to changes in the water content of the rivers of its catchment area, is no more than 2100 and no less than 610 km2. Ilmen Square about 90 times less area his pool. Seasonal fluctuations in the level of the lake are about 6 m. The spring rise in water stretches from April to June, a gradual decline occurs in July - October. The maximum rise in water, as a rule, is in the first half of May. The length of modern Ilmen at an average water level is 43 km, and the width is about 33 km. The shores of the lake are low, swampy, and indented with bays. Reed jungles separate them from the water. Only in the southwest of Korostyn to the village Oysters stretch along Ilmen for 12 km reddish limestone rocks - Ilmensky Glint. From a distance they look like the ruins of a fortress wall. Their height reaches 30 m. In spring, the waters of Ilmen reach the bottom of the lake's mud, at a low water level behind the pebbles a wide, up to 1000 m, sandy beach is exposed. Ilmen feeds mainly on surface runoff. About 96% of the water entering the lake is brought by rivers and about 4% by precipitation. On Ilmen, winds of the SW direction are frequent - Shelonik. The wave in the middle of the lake reaches a meter, and near its northwestern shore at northern winds there is a surf up to 2 m high. It is dangerous to go to Ilmen on small tourist ships, especially since there is nowhere to hide when the weather changes - there are no islands on the lake. The water in the lake does not warm up above 18-20°C even in summer.

Lake Ilmen Ilmen is one of the largest lakes European part of Russia. The average area is 1120 sq. km, but with a strong decline in water it is reduced to 660 sq. km, and in high-water years it reaches 2230 sq. km. It is located on the territory of the Novgorod, Pskov and Tver regions. Ilmen is the only body of water in the country, the level difference in which reaches 7 meters during the flood, and the area of ​​​​the mirror can triple. At an average water level, the length of the Ilmen is 47 km, the width is 38 km. The most major rivers Novgorod region: Lovat, Pola, Msta, Shelon and others, and only Volkhov flows out. Due to the high flow rate, the water in the lake is replaced in 1.5 - 2 months (for comparison, in Lake Ladoga, in 12 years). Geological studies say that earlier on the site of Ilmen there was a vast reservoir with depths of up to 30 meters, later its basin was 90% filled with river sediments. Now Ilmen is a “dying” reservoir, disappearing under the influence of centuries-old processes of flooding and drifting of its bed with river sediments. In winter, the lake freezes everywhere, reaching an ice thickness of 50-60 cm by the beginning of the spring flood. The average long-term freezing temperature of the lake is November 20. The average long-term date of the opening of the reservoir is April 28. The average duration of freeze-up on the lake is 160 days, the period of clear water is 205 days.

One of the largest lakes in Europe, Ilmen, lies in the northwestern lands of our country, not far from the cradle of Russian statehood - ancient city Novgorod the Great. The lake is located on the famous route "from the Varangians to the Greeks".

The area of ​​Ilmen is about a thousand square kilometers, and maximum depth reaches only 10 meters. The lake is shallow, it was even mistaken for the overflow of the rivers flowing into it. Today, this region attracts tourists with the cleanest air, picturesque nature, and, of course, fishing.

How to get there

By train from Moscow to Veliky Novgorod, about eight hours on the way.

By car from Moscow along the M-10 highway (Russia) to the exit Velikiy Novgorod. Approximately eight hours on the road and about five hundred kilometers.

Search for flights to Moscow (nearest airport to Ilmen)

Lake Ilmen was formed about two and a half thousand years ago as a result of a deep fault. This is the only lake in Russia, in which the water level drops up to seven meters.

About fifty rivers flow into Ilmen, the largest of them are Msta, Shelon, Pola, Lovat. The Volkhov River flows out of the lake, on which Veliky Novgorod stands. The banks of the Ilmen are mostly low-lying, in the southwest they are picturesque limestone rocks of a reddish color, called the "Ilmen glint".

The water in the lake is quite cool, and even in summer it rarely rises above twenty degrees.

Despite the yellowish color of Ilmen, which is given to it by organic peat deposits, the water here is very clean. The reservoir freezes around the twentieth of November and opens at the end of April.

It is not known for certain who lived on the shores of this lake in antiquity. There are many different hypotheses, but none has reliable confirmation. Here there are traces of the Ural ethnic groups, and the Finnish ethnic groups who came here later, and traces of the Slavs, and even, although not in significant numbers, some toponyms of Scandinavian-Germanic origin.

There are also disputes about the origin of the name itself - Ilmen. Some researchers argue that the name of the lake is a word of Finnish origin and means “bad weather lake”. Indeed, since ancient times, the lake has been famous for strong storms and storms, in which it is scary to find yourself to this day.

History paragraph

In the Middle Ages, Lake Ilmen (then called Ilmer) lay on the famous route "from the Varangians to the Greeks", which ran from Baltic Sea to Byzantium. During the Moscow-Novgorod wars, in 1471, in the village of Korostyn, a peace treaty was signed between Moscow and Novgorod, according to which Novgorodians actually recognized the power of Moscow, and the fate of the free Novgorod Republic was a foregone conclusion. During the time of Peter the Great, Ilmen attracted statesmen in connection with the creation of the Vyshnevolotsk water system (connecting the Tvertsa River with the Baltic Sea), which the tsar began building in 1703 to ensure the supply of goods from Central Russia to St. Petersburg.

The research of Ilmen and Priilmenye was extremely interesting for the outstanding Russian scientist Mikhail Vasilievich Lomonosov, who initiated the expeditions of the Russian Academy of Sciences, in which many famous and outstanding scientists of that time took part.

Fishing on Ilmen

Of course, one of the main entertainments on Ilmen is fishing. Due to the fact that a huge number of rivers flow into the lake, more than forty species of fish are found here. Among them: tench, ruff, smelt, pike, perch, pike perch, asp, catfish, bream, burbot, ide, roach and many others. Previously, even whitefish were found here, which unfortunately disappeared after the construction of the Volkhovskaya hydroelectric power station. So a variety of places to fishing you can find plenty and, as they say, for every taste. One of the most famous is the village of Vzvad, known since the twelfth century.

You can fish on Ilmen all year round. It is possible to stay with local residents, and here you can rent tackle, boats and everything else a fisherman needs. But you need to follow the safety rules, as the weather on the lake is changeable, and the winds and storms are severe.

For lovers winter fishing, Lake Ilmen has one interesting feature. If you punch a hole in the ice and bring a match to the hole, the air released from it will burn. This is explained by the fact that bacteria that process peat live at the bottom of Ilmen, as a result of which gas is released.

Be sure to try the delicious lake fish, which you can catch yourself or buy from locals.

Beaches and hotels

In Ilmen pure water, which is conducive to swimming in the warm season. There are good ones on the lake sandy beaches However, they are all "wild". There are well-known beaches near the Peryn Skete, near the villages of Sergovo, Ondvor, Ilmen.

You can stay on Ilmen in hotels and sanatoriums, or you can rent an entire house or stay with local residents.

From the ancient Slavs, Ilmen received the nickname "Slovenian Sea".

Entertainment and attractions of Ilmen

Due to the variability of the weather and the danger of storms, this type of holiday boat trips on Ilmen is practically absent. Lake waves easily overturn small vessels and boats, there is nowhere to hide from them, since there are no islands on the lake, and the distance from one coast to another can be up to fifty kilometers. But there is a popular and safe route to desert island Lipno, on which stands the beautiful thirteenth-century church of St. Nicholas nad Lipno, which can only be reached by boat.

It is worth visiting the nearby ancient Russian cities: Veliky Novgorod and Staraya Russa.

Ancient Veliky Novgorod, founded in 859, is located only six kilometers from Lake Ilmen, which makes it very attractive for excursions. Also from the Novgorod berths there is a sightseeing tram along the Volkhov River to the place where the river flows into Ilmen. During the walk, you have the opportunity to enjoy the views of the Lord Veliky Novgorod, St. George's Monastery and Rurik's settlement.

Staraya Russa is located 99 kilometers from Veliky Novgorod, in the basin of Lake Ilmen. When was this founded ancient city it is not known for certain, the first mention in the annals dates back to 1167, but it is known that the settlement at this place was located here earlier. To date, the time of the emergence of Staraya Russa dates back to the end of the tenth - the beginning of the eleventh century. The city has preserved many medieval temples, as well as various architectural monuments and museums. You should definitely visit the Spaso-Preobrazhensky Monastery founded in 1192.

• Where to stay: in nature - on Lake Valdai, or in ancient Russian cities -

Lake Ilmen is located in the western part of the Novgorod region. Scientists attribute the reservoir to the Baltic Sea basin.

The history of the lake and its environs is rich, interesting and mysterious. This is due to the fact that the lake has been shrouded in legends, myths, and secrets since ancient times.

Origin of Lake Ilmen

A reservoir was formed almost 2.5 thousand years ago, due to the fact that in this place, after the retreat of the glacier, a break in the earth's crust occurred.

Lake Ilmen on the map

Historical events

The banks of the Ilmen were inhabited a very long time ago, but scientists have not been able to establish the name of the tribe / nationality / ethnic group for sure. Archaeologists have found traces of the Ural and Finnish ethnic groups, which were then forced out by the Slavs. It is possible that representatives of the Scandinavian and Germanic tribes lived here.

Historical chronicles testify that on Lake Ilmen on July 7, 1471, Prince Danilo Kholmsky of Tver, who was in the service of the Moscow Tsar, defeated the army of Veliky Novgorod. Three weeks later, a peaceful Moscow-Novgorod treaty was signed here.

Which rivers flow into Lake Ilmen

Almost 50 rivers flow into the Ilmen - both large and small. Among the biggest it is worth noting:

• Veryazh;
• Veronda;
• Mstu;
• Lovat;
• Shelokhon;
• Mshagu.

But only one river flows out of the lake, which is called the Volkhov. It is this river that connects Ladoga lake with Lake Ilmen.

Relief

The shores of the lake are different large number swampy and low-lying areas. Along the coast you can find deltas, channels, flat floodplain islands. Most of all swamps and swamps are near the eastern and southeastern shores. Depressions and ridges predominate in the north and northwest.

Cities

The closest to the lake is the city of Veliky Novgorod, from where excursions around Ilmen are regularly carried out. 90 km from Veliky Novgorod is located locality called Staraya Russa. The city belongs to the basin of the reservoir, and is connected with the Ilmen lake by historical and cultural ties.

Animal world

Lake fauna represented different types fish. Most of all, there are such river inhabitants as pike, burbot, smelt, bream, perch, sabrefish, etc., whitefish is rarely found. There were more of this fish, but after the Volkhovskaya hydroelectric power station was built, the whitefish population decreased sharply.

lake Ilmen. sunset photo

On the shores of Lake Ilmen there is a huge number of insects, which is associated with wetlands and coastal areas, high humidity. There are especially many blood-sucking insects here, among which it is worth noting gadflies, mosquitoes, horseflies, midges.

Many birds that nest are mallards, crake and many others. Otters live, which are listed in the Red Book.

Characteristics of Lake Ilmen

• The area of ​​the lake during the flood is 2,230 km2, when the water subsides, then the area is reduced by almost four times and is 660 km2. The average area is equal to 1 thousand km2;
• The length of the lake is 45 km, and the width reaches 35 kilometers, the depth varies from 10 to 13 meters;
• The Ilmenskoye Lake is fed by rivers in the spring, when they overflow with floods, in winter the low water is responsible for the "nutrition";
• The water level fluctuates within 7.4 meters, reaching a maximum in May, and a minimum in March;
• Between November and April, the lake is frozen over;
• The water in the lake contains a huge amount of organic matter (mainly peat), which is why the color of the water is yellow or brown. But organic elements do not affect the purity of water. Once every one and a half to two months, the water is renewed in the reservoir;
• In summer, the water temperature in the lake exceeds +20 C, which is why the water near the shores constantly “blooms”;
• A feature of Ilmen are storms that cause the formation of high, but short, waves;
• The height above sea level is 18.1 m;
• The climate is temperate continental;
• The average annual rainfall is 550mm;
• Characteristic of the lake are the processes of siltation, the drift of river sediments, due to which the lake begins to gradually disappear under such a “veil”.

• In times Kievan Rus the lake was part of the famous trade route"from the Varangians to the Greeks";
• The epic name of Ilmen is Lake Sadko, and in the Middle Ages the reservoir was called the Slovenian Sea - because of the boundlessness and unique system water spill;
• On the southern bank of the Ilmen there is the so-called Ilmensky Glint - this is a cliff-ledge. Its height is 15 m, and its length is 8 km, occupying the territory between two villages - Pustosh and Korostyn. In the limestone that makes up Glint, geologists have found many marine fossils dating back to the Devon period. Here they were discovered mineral springs and very rare plant species.

Essay on geography, grade 8

Ilmen is a lake in the western part of the Novgorod region. Refers to the Baltic Sea basin of the Atlantic Ocean. A post-glacial reservoir (on the site of earlier water systems) with picturesque shores and a multi-thousand-year history of development. Traditionally attractive for Russian and foreign tourists.

The area of ​​the lake, depending on the water level, varies from 733 to 2090 km² (with an average level of 982 km²); length about 45 km, width up to 35 km; depth up to 10 m. The shores are mostly low-lying, swampy, in some places - deltaic, with many flat floodplain islands and channels; ridges are stretched along the northwestern coast, alternating with depressions; swampy in the southeast and east.

About 50 rivers flow into Lake Ilmen. The largest of them are: Msta, Pola, Lovat with Polista, Shelon with Mshaga, Veronda, Veryazh, etc. The only river Volkhov flows out of Lake Ilmen and flows into Lake Ladoga. The main food of the lake is carried out due to the inflow of rivers with spring floods and winter low water. Level fluctuations up to 7.4 m (minimum - in March, maximum - in May). Freeze from November to April.

At the beginning of the Paleozoic era, when the surface was lowered, the region of the future Lake Ilmen and its basin was flooded by the sea. Then, under the influence of the internal forces of the planet, the surface rose, and the sea receded. Further, the surface of the Priilmenye was repeatedly lowered and flooded by the sea. Sands, silt, shells, skeletons of fish and marine animals settled to the bottom. Over millions of years, these marine deposits have turned into limestones, marls, sandstones. Gradually, the sea became shallow, land areas, islands, sea ​​bays, lagoons.

One of the main events of the last million years is the advance of glaciers on the East European Plain. Highest value for the Novgorod region had the last, so-called Valdai glaciation 70 - 15 thousand years ago. The glacier left a thick layer of moraine deposits: loam, sand and sandy loam. The material of the moraine is highly mixed and contains many boulders of crystalline rocks brought by ice from the north.

The relief of the region is characterized by moraine deposits in the form of hills. Large moraine hills have relative heights 50 - 60 m, medium - 10 - 30 m, small - 5 -10 m. Sometimes, among the hilly moraine relief, there are relatively flat areas composed of boulder loam. These are moraine plains. They prevail on the Priilmenskaya lowland in the vicinity of Lake Ilmen.

Now Ilmen is a “dying” body of water, disappearing under the influence of centuries-old processes of silting and drifting of its bed with river sediments.

The first settlers laid the foundation for the study and economic development of the lake and its surroundings several thousand years ago. They partly concentrated their knowledge in epic, legends and epics. Ilmer turned out to be a "weathermaker" for the ancestors of the Finns and Ilmen (the god Il) for the Indo-Europeans, including the Slavs. According to the Tale of Slovene and Rus, the lake was originally called Moisko (probably by Nostratic communities), and Sloven and Rus changed the name to Ilmer - after the name of their sister (approximately like Lybid in the chronicle legends about Kiya). The name of Ilmera (Ilmeny) is played up in the epics about Sadko, and more often Ilmen-lake appears as the possession of the sea king.

The medieval development of the lake itself and the Priilmenye is reflected in various ways in many works related to the study of the paths “from the Varangians to the Greeks” and “from the Varangians to the Persians”, with various aspects of the life of the surrounding population.

A comprehensive geographical study of the North-West and the Priilmenskaya lowland interested Lomonosov. On his initiative, expeditions were organized in 1768-1774 Russian Academy Sciences, which was attended by many prominent scientists.

Bacteria living in the lake, when processing rotting algae and peat, produce combustible gas. In winter, fishermen take advantage of this by digging a hole in the lake and setting fire to the escaping gas. On this fire you can boil water, cook fish or just keep warm. Now similar cases are not marked.

July 30 our tourist club made a one-day, but big Adventure in the Novgorod region. We visited the nature monument Ilmensky Glint and Lake Ilmen, the surrounding villages, the Mikhailo-Klopsky Monastery, the Peryn Skete and the Novgorodsky Detinets (Kremlin). Next, I will describe in detail our journey and everything that we saw.

So, we gathered at 7.30 on Udelnaya, got into a rented bus, picked up some of the people on Moskovskaya, and then rushed towards Novgorod. The road went in the rain, the whole sky was covered with clouds, but by noon the sun came out - and it became hot, as on southern resort. We got to the village of Korostyn, in the Shimsky district of the Novgorod region, took backpacks from the bus - and started our hike. The first object to be examined was travel palace emperor. It is believed that this is the palace of Alexander the First, but by the time the palace was built, he had already died, and Emperor Nicholas had already used it.

Now we go to the lake, for the sake of which we came here. On the way, we stop to see the German cemetery, where the German soldiers who died in 1941-1944 are buried. They say they were SS troops.

Each buried soldier is named by name.

We go to the shore of Lake Ilmen. It is very big. And very beautiful.

The coast is covered with pebbles. Stones of different colors and different origins. Here is a geological open-air museum.

Some of the pebbles are round, some are flat. From flat, children resting here love to lay out all sorts of figures and ornaments. I wonder how they got this shape?

Shore of lake Ilmen. Waves on the lake. The lake is more like a sea.

We go along the coast. Our goal is to see the natural monument, Ilmensky Glint

Lake Ilmen is so large that its shores are not visible. In this it also resembles the sea. And much more than the Gulf of Finland, where you can still see the opposite coast.

Finally, the coastal ledge, which is scientifically called the glint, begins to clearly emerge. From the village of Korostyn to the village of Retle, a high steep cliff will stretch along the lake. Inhabitants Leningrad region know what a glint is - we also have a cliff above the water, on the south coast Gulf of Finland, as well as in a smoother version on the northern coast. But here the glint is much more impressive and extended.

At times, the coast turns out to be almost entirely composed of blue clay. And a vertical cliff, and the ground underfoot.

In other places it is hidden by other geological layers.

The landscapes here are one more beautiful than the other!

At the village of Pustosh, we have to move away from the water and climb the high bank, which here is overgrown with grass and flowers. The fact is that a stream flows into the lake, and the shore around it is swampy.

The view from the high bank is lovely.

We pass through the village of Wasteland, as we need a crossing over the stream. The village is pretty. Lots of wooden houses. Household items attached to the wall

Boats are hidden in the bushes.

On the bridge in the village we crossed a wide stream, after which we again went to the bank of the Ilmen

Here the water begins to come close to the steep bank

Near the Wasteland, the shore of the lake corresponds to the name of the village - empty. Nobody! It's just a fairy tale! Nature without people! Silence and beauty!

And don't need to Black Sea resorts ride - there is both the sun and warm water and there are no people. Getting here is faster and cheaper.
Beauties!

The nature of the cliff began to change. There is still clay below, but some other rocks come out at the top.

The cliff becomes sheer, and the rocks with which it is composed consist of some kind of cubes, they are like crystals.

Landscapes - like in the mountains!

Very unusual species for the northern regions...

The sun is hot, and people start to get tired, dreaming of swimming.

How good is it here!

It is good that these places have the status of a natural monument. Otherwise, the shores would be built up, and this wonderful shore would simply collapse. And so - we can see the same rocks that the Slavs and Varangians saw a thousand years ago.

The legendary Sadko, the hero of epics, swam here.

And all the characters of our history who have been in Novgorod have also been here - Rurik, Yaroslav the Wise, Alexander Nevsky ... Ilmen Lake was largest place shipping and trade. And they all saw these cliffs the same as we see them.

Here the swallows have managed to make holes for their nests.

It's amazing how such beautiful places remain unknown to most of the inhabitants of our region?

They say that in these layers there are many fossils of extinct organisms.

We have already walked 7 kilometers, and the wall along the water still does not end.

True, it is getting lower and lower. In Korostyn, the coast was twice as high. But here it is more beautiful!

wreckage rock lying below. Part of the coast crumbled over time

Finally, we reached the place where a wooden staircase leads from the top of the cliff to the lake. This meant that there was a beach here - no one would make a staircase for nothing in vain.

The stairs are steep, but the railings and steps are solid.

Top view of the beach.

At the top, a pleasant discovery awaited us - there was just a sea of ​​wild strawberries! Very tasty and sweet. And it grows in abundance. None of the tourists who came here thought to pick it up. So we enjoyed it

Our tourists began to rest after a long march along the rocky coast.

And I ran to swim. The first meters had to go on the rocks, but then there was a gentle sand. And very warm, pleasant water!

Super mood! It's great here!

The rest also bathed

The place where we ended our walk along the shore of Lake Ilmen is called Retle. Here the river Psizha flows into the lake.

Chicory grows along the roads. It is used to make the coffee drink that many of us drink.

The area here is very beautiful!

Heaven for landscape lovers... Thank you local residents that kept this beauty! It doesn't happen everywhere...

From Retle we go to the highway, where the bus will come to pick us up. The village near the highway is called Buregi. In it you can see the ruins of the Buregsky monastery that once existed here.

And some old stone buildings. Most likely, the remains of a noble estate.

Walking and swimming took us 4 hours. But Lake Ilmen is worth it! It's amazingly beautiful and pleasant here! And we are going further, to see the surroundings of Veliky Novgorod - and I will tell about this in the following notes ...