Magical Pamir-Alai. Fan mountains. Tajikistan. Schedule of hikes along the route

And I still, looking at the photos, cannot believe that such a place on Earth exists.
If we talk about Fany in short, then this is the most beautiful mountainous region, with stunning landscape, and, most importantly, with incredible amount varied lakes. Not for nothing, after all, Yuri Vizbor sang so much about the Fann Mountains. This, of course, is also a paradise for photographers, contemplators and simply lovers of beauty, you definitely want to come back here, see, feel, and absorb all this beauty.

And now in order.

Fans are located in Tajikistan, the highest point of the region is the city of Chimtarga (5489 m). A distinctive feature of the Fann Mountains is the presence of constantly good weather in August-September. So good it's even boring. Joke, of course. We were here from August 18 to 29, and for all the time we had 2 times a light rain for no more than an hour and 2 more times there were clouds and clouds, but it didn’t rain (even though we managed to shoot a time-lapse with these clouds!). The rest of the time only the sun and stars. The area is very warm, but not hot, which is also nice. The temperature during the day was +20..30 ºС, at night - in most cases about +10 ºС, once (overnight at 4100 m) - close to zero.
In addition, of course, Fans are a huge number the most beautiful lakes. One of my goals in Fany was to swim in every lake, no matter how cold they were.

Day 0
Having reached the Krasnodar airport with adventures, we fly a direct flight Krasnodar - Dushanbe. At 6 am we land on Tajik soil. Hello Tajikistan!
We are met by my friend Najibullo Abdualimov, with whom we studied together at the university, and arranges for us a dizzying act of hospitality - he takes us around the city, showing us the sights, leads us to restaurants, orders transport for the group to the Artuch alpine camp and much more. Such Tajik hospitality! After seeing Dushanbe a little, eating local cuisine and having bought food for the trip, we go to bed. Tomorrow - meeting of the participants, registration and a long drive to the alpine camp.

Day 1.
We meet the participants, and go to register. Registration is such an outdated concept that still exists in Tajikistan. Within three working days, each foreigner must register with the OVIR at the place of residence of the receiving Tajik, otherwise there may be problems when leaving the country. This procedure is very strange and meaningless - except perhaps for a certain amount of money (from $20 to $35), which is charged to a foreigner for the registration itself.
Without going into details, in 3-4 hours they make this registration for us (again, not without the help of my friend Nadzhik), and we are loaded into our pepelats - pajero and prada, and we go-go-go.
Since 93% of Tajikistan is occupied by mountains, it is clear that we are going to the alpine camp through mountainous terrain. The journey takes 6-8 hours, depending on traffic jams and other factors. The Dushanbe-Khujand road is a highway and, moreover, the only one. In some places the road is very good, but in some places it is dead and utterly narrow. A particularly tough test - overcoming a 5-kilometer tunnel - a real hell without a road, ventilation, light and with a huge number of cars and, as a result, exhaust gases inside. Well, the most interesting is the special adherence to the rules of the road by Tajiks.

Traffic jams

Example. Tunnel. Trucks move slowly, so everyone feels obliged to overtake them (remember, this is a tunnel). But do you think he's the only smart one? The same smart horseman is coming towards us! And what happens? A huge traffic jam in the middle of a terrible tunnel, which is eventually destroyed by the drivers themselves. Conclusions, of course, no one does, and everything is periodically repeated. This is the fun part of the trip. In general, everything is peaceful, decorous, noble.
And so, by ten in the evening we still arrive at the Artuch alpine camp. All sleep.

Starry sky over Artuch alpine camp

Day 2 In the morning, a beautiful panorama of the surrounding mountains. We are in Fans!

One of our pepelats.

We order donkeys (for the first three days) to carry some of the equipment, and move forward. Today, according to our plan - the Zierat pass, and the lakes - Chukurak, Zierat, Kulikalon, and overnight at Bibidjonat Lake.

Group at the start

The first lake - Chukurak

Lake Zierat

The pass turned out to be more unpleasant than expected (an overhanging scree with a hard conglomerate is not the most pleasant climb), however a good start for acclimatization - 3200 m, before the Alaudin pass (1A, 3730 m).

Ascent to the Zierat pass

Zierat Pass

Mountain layering

We go down, enjoy a non-standard view of Kulikalon Lake, and go to our overnight lake Bibijonat. Today we are tired, nothing like a warm-up. In the evening - a fire and stars, huge stars! The Milky Way is in full view!

Lake Kulikalon

The Milky Way does not illuminate anything and it can be removed very well.

Day 3 In the morning - we are amazed at the view of our overnight stay, which was not visible in the evening. A stunning reflection of the walls of Maria and Mirali in the lake, juniper forest, an abundance of small and large streams. Beauty.

We again load part of the things on donkeys and go to the Alaudin pass (3730 m). On the way we see the stunning colors of Lake Duchara, and the opening view of the Kulikalon basin (in which there are only 6-7 lakes) does not leave anyone indifferent.

Lake Dyushakha

We cross over, take pictures, have lunch and go down to the next sapphire - the Alaudin lakes.

Alaudin pass

Alaudin lakes from the Alaudin pass

At first, it seems that photoshop has been “sewn up” in your eyes, and that the color is simply unreal.

View back to Kulikalon Lake

In the evening - stars the size of a fist, sheer walls of nearby peaks, the water surface of the lake, juniper ...

Day 4 The words here are meaningless. This beauty must be seen. Morning Alaudin lakes.

At 11 o'clock we move to the Mutnye Lakes. This is the last day when donkeys help us to carry things and we can enjoy light backpacks.

Half an hour walk from the Alaudin lakes - Lake Piala, with a very deep blue color. By tradition, we swim in this lake. In the photo it seems that the lake is not deep. In fact, its depth, by eye, is 5-6 meters, maybe even more.

At about 3 o'clock in the afternoon we go to the Mutnye Lakes. The lake is really muddy. But, without changing the plan, I go for a swim. We meet a beautiful sunset and go to sleep.

Day 5
Today, according to the plan - to reach the overnight stays at 4500 m under the Chimtarga pass (1B, 4750 m). However, in order for everyone to stay alive today (because the backpacks have already become heavier), we reach overnight stays at 4100 m, thereby complicating tomorrow. But tomorrow is not today. Today - a small half-day, at 3 o'clock in the afternoon we set up camp.

On the left - peak Energy, on the right - Chimtarga

Day 6
We leave at 6:40 to capture more daylight hours and have time to reach Lake Bolshoye Allo. All the way to the pass is a path, in some places passing through a live loose-leaved scree, which complicates the movement up.

At about 11 o'clock the whole group gathers at the Chimtarga pass - 4750 m, the highest point of the hike. Memorable photos and a long descent down into the valley of the Right Zindan river.

Panorama on the Chimtarga pass

Group on the Chimtarga pass

The descent is a complete mess. In some places - a pleasant glider down the traveling small scree. Pure pleasure! Like skiing. True, climbing the pass from here is, of course, very tough and unpleasant, so it’s better to choose the same path of movement as we do.
Having overcome all the storms, we have lunch by the river, and calmly walk along the path towards Lake Bolshoye Allo.

Unusual rainbow.

The majesty of the summit and the insignificance of man A

The valley is very picturesque and easy to pass. One place, of course, was very surprising - a huge blockage, with a height difference of 100 meters. You won't find anything like this in the Caucasus.

By 6 pm we open beautiful view to Big Allo Lake, and we hasten to embrace it and set up camp on its shore. Archa looks especially picturesque against the background of the blue of the lake.
Tired, the day was slaughter, rest.

Fan Mountains (or Fans) - Part mountain system Pamir-Alai, which is located in Central Asia. They mainly belong to Tajikistan. Fans are limited by two high ranges - Gissar (from the south) and Zeravshan (from the north).

The Fann Mountains include eight peaks over 5000 meters. Main summit — Chimtarga(5489 m). Popular five-thousanders: Lock(5070 m), Energy(5120 m), Bodhona(5138 m).

Lakes of the Fann Mountains

The alpine lakes of this region have become truly a talk of the town among travelers. Their number and beauty are amazing. The most famous: Iskanderkul, Alaudinskiye, Kulikalon, Hello. All of them are crystal clear and rich, changeable color. Before filling the lakes, the water is filtered through the ancient sedimentary rocks of the Fann Mountains, which makes it so transparent. The hue of the lakes changes from turquoise and azure in the morning to deep blue in the late afternoon.

The lakes are surrounded by impregnable sheer walls of the Fann Mountains. There is little vegetation here, so the landscape looks harsh and silent. Only a mirror surface reflecting the sky, clouds, rocks...

In the Fann Mountains you can see the miracle of the birth of a new lake. A little over a century ago (consider yesterday by the standards of history) an earthquake struck rock and the landslide blocked the river. This is how the Allo lakes began to form, which are still filled with water. I wonder how the next generation will see them? :)

Fan nature

The Fann Mountains are a diverse and contrasting land. Hot subtropics reign in the lower reaches, the highlands are chained by eternal winter.

Flora of the Fann Mountains

Up to an altitude of 2300 m, slopes and valleys abound orchards , thickets of hazel, barberry. Almonds, currants, pears, quince, walnuts, pistachios, sweet fragrant grapes grow here... The foothills of the Fanov are considered the birthplace of some of these most important crops and the center of their cultivation.

The flora of the Fann Mountains includesover 2 thousand species, most of which are medicinal. In Soviet times, a full-scale hunt for valuable plants and wood was launched here, as a result of which many species were on the verge of extinction. Therefore, the modern laws of Tajikistan are very strict in this regard. If you go to the Fann Mountains, in no case do not pick flowers, do not break branches and do not catch butterflies. This is monitored not only by huntsmen and border guards, but also by the local population. Fines and sanctions for violators are merciless.

Worth mentioning separately archa. This juniper tree — the only tree that survives in the harsh conditions of the highlands. Archa is very beautiful: her trunk is under the influence strong winds can be strongly bent and twisted at amazing angles. It turns out a kind of intricacies, crowned with soft hair of needles. Thanks to her, the Fann Mountains are fragrant, because juniper emits a lot of essential oils, disinfects the air and makes it literally healing. The smoke of a juniper fire cures a runny nose and even sinusitis, repels insects and smells very pleasant :). The most elite pencils in the world are made from wood. Previously, the slopes of the Fann Mountains were covered with juniper forests, but industry has tried its best here too - now they have been completely cut down. Archa is protected by law, its felling is considered poaching. You can only burn dry branches collected on the ground.

Above 3300 meters, endless alpine meadows, and above them stretched the edge of permafrost, glaciers and snowfields. By the way, the Fann Mountains, like the entire Pamir-Alai, are very rich in glaciers.

Fauna of the Fann Mountains

Almost mythical animals roam the slopes of this amazing corner of the planet - snow leopards or snow leopards. To see them is an unprecedented success and the dream of every sophisticated traveler. Here you can meet a bear, a wolf, a lynx, a teke (mountain goat), an argali sheep, wild boars, foxes, hares, ermines ... Eagles, hawks, vultures, ulars (mountain geese) proudly cut the sky, partridges and pigeons hide in the grass .

Fans are rich in gold and coal. Their prey was mentioned by ancient philosophers and naturalists.

Climate of the Fann Mountains

As already mentioned, the valleys are dominated by tropical climate type. In the mountains, it is replaced by a sharp continental. In the summer below it fries up to +35, and the highlands warm up to +3 ... +10. It will be frosty at night on the peaks, because the height here reaches 5 kilometers above sea level!

Summer in the Fann Mountains dry and stable. It lasts from June to September. This - best time for trekking, because the passes are easily passable, the paths are cleared of snow. Two high ridge(Hissar and Zeravshan) protect the Fans from wet fronts. These mountains are one of the few in the world where, in a two-week hike, can't really see a drop of rain. Tourist season starts in the second half of July, ends in the second half of September.

But remember: these are mountains, and you need to be prepared for anything.

Peculiarities of trekking in the Fann Mountains

Here we mention that the region is very seismically active. Earthquakes are considered normal here, although they are rarely strong.

The breed of the Fann Mountains is quite ancient, therefore it tends to crumble from steep slopes (of which there are a lot here). Stay tuned upstairs! Especially given the seismic activity. The same applies to the passage of glaciers.

Because of frequent collapses on the way there are sections covered with loose powder of different sizes and levels of complexity. Good trekking boots and poles are required.

Tourist routes in the Fann Mountains

Although Fans are high and (judging by their appearance) not very friendly mountains, but in fact there are tracks for everyone here. Can choose easy walking a route along lakes and passes, or climb a category vertical wall. Climbers, experienced trekkers, beginners - there is a job for everyone! :). And no one leaves disappointed.

The most famous routes were laid during the USSR, and references to them are often found to this day. This:

№429 Samarkand - lake. Gushor - lake. Iskanderkul — Dushanbe

№435 (the same, but in the opposite direction).

Fann Mountains with Pohod V Gory

Our organization club active rest Pohod V Gory offers an alternative, more intense route, climbing the pass Chimtarga (4750 m, 1B), from where a panorama of the main peaks of the Fann Mountains opens. This track passes through the picturesque Alaudin and Kulikalon lakes, as well as lake. Allo and Alaudin pass (1A). We have adapted the hike for tourists who have little experience, so the most difficult sections are divided into several transitions, and part of the path is light (backpacks ride on mules). A visit to Bukhara and Samarkand will serve as an excellent addition to trekking in the Fann Mountains;).

It all started with the famous lines of Vizbor's song "I left my heart in the Fann Mountains." But the mountains of Tajikistan did not evoke any pleasant associations in us. From our acquaintances, we heard about a series of robberies to which they were subjected there, five years ago. Again, the situation in neighboring Afghanistan is not the most calm. To the reasonable question "Do you need it?" we answered with a shrug. But the photos of those places caused only positive emotions. And we just couldn't go.

Heading to Tajikistan, we first flew to Samarkand. The Uzbek land did not receive us very friendly. We lost two hours at customs, trying to finally get into the country. Finding fault with our passports for a long time, they obviously expected something from us. But, in the end, we ended up in the former republic of palaces, khans, oriental sweets, fruits and hot sun. After the coolness of the air-conditioned airport, we plunged into the forty-degree oven of the city, and, having loaded backpacks onto the bus, headed towards the Tajik-Uzbek border. A few hours later we were already in another country.

The Tajik border guards received answers to all their questions and having spent only a few minutes on all the formalities, we again loaded our things into the already new bus. From the border to the alpine camp Alaudin 150 kilometers of serpentine. The road is slowly deteriorating, the asphalt is replaced by gravel, in some places it turns into an ordinary primer. Rocks rise above it like a wall, and below the raging stream of the Zeravshan River winds. Winding through the gorges, the road slowly creeps up. Our path is already more like an attraction " Roller coaster"... We were in the alpine camp far after midnight.

It was only when we woke up the next morning that we realized where we were. flowing streams the purest rivers, soft carpets of grass underfoot, a bottomless sky without a single cloud, which is simply impossible to look at without amazement and admiration, and all this is emphasized by the greatness of those around mountain peaks with white collars of snowy tuxedos… There are several houses in the alpine camp, there is also a tent site. And a crystal river runs nearby. Just a few steps and the Alaudin lakes open before us. An enchanting spectacle…

The lake surface reflects the sunset and reflections of the sun in the clouds that have enveloped the summit. Lake Alaudin is unusual for its colors. They never repeat, they shimmer and change, creating their own unique palette. Only in the evening, when the wind blows and the water surface is covered with lambs, the colors mix and darken, foreshadowing twilight and reflecting the sunset.

Nearby is another small but very clean lake - Piala. And then, a few kilometers away, our gaze opens up the expanses of water of a huge bowl filled with coffee with milk, Mutnye Lakes. They are bound around the perimeter by mountain ranges covered with snow. This snow does not melt even in summer. Even when the scorching sun floods the green meadows in the lowlands with warmth and light, it is cold and sometimes very windy here. Only in the late afternoon, when the sun peeps out from behind the peaks, small "sunbeams" begin to run around the lake ...

To the north-west of the camp there are two passes Laudan (Kulikalon) 3630m and Alaudin 3860m. And behind them are located, sandwiched in the mountains - the Kulikalon lakes. A system of a dozen small and large reservoirs, overflowing into each other, flows into the large Kulikalon lake. Cows graze in flood meadows, and lambs graze up the slopes. Tajiks gather animals in huge herds in settlements and take them to the mountains for the summer. In places where there is a lot of moisture and grass.

Briefly first:

1. The Fann Mountains still exist.
2. Fans are waiting for climbers and tourists, as in the good old Soviet times
3. Russian citizens still do not need visas
4. There is a base for placement and delivery
5. And in spite of everything - more and more hearts remain in Fans.

So it remains only to add yours to them too.

I fell ill with the Fann Mountains immediately and forever. Neither the Caucasus, nor the Pamirs, nor the Tien Shan caused so many positive emotions, did not give as much positive energy as the Fans.

Therefore, this is not only and not so much work, but, most likely, the call of the heart. But in order.

1. Fann Mountains

Topographic map of the Fann Mountains region (701kb)

The Fann Mountains or simply Fany are about a hundred of the most beautiful peaks, over ten of which exceed 5000 meters in height and have walls with a height difference of up to 1500 meters.

The area is located in the south-west of the Pamir-Alay in the region of the Gissar and Zeravshan ranges, which translates respectively as "Fortress" and "Giving gold" - this area still stores gold mines.

Conventionally, the Fann Mountains are bounded from the north by the Zeravshan Range, from the south by the Gissar Range, from the east by the Fandarya River, from the west by the Archimaidan River. The region of the Marguzor lakes is also often referred to as the Fans (west of the Archimaidan River).

Fans have always been attracted, first of all, by the beautiful stable and sunny weather in July-August, the presence of passes and routes to the peaks of all categories of complexity from simple non-category to the most difficult rocky wall routes 6B.

The highest point of the region is Chimtarga peak 5487m

Other five-thousanders are Bodkhona (5138), Chapdara (5050), Big Hansa (5306), Small Hansa (5031), Zamok (5070), Mirali (5132), Energy (5120)

It is impossible not to mention the most beautiful lakes in Fany, of which there are many. The most famous Alaudin in the valley of the river. Chapdara, Kulikalon, Allo, Iskanderkul

2. Race options

Unfortunately, Soviet times have passed and transport in these places has become bad. There is almost no public transport.

We offer (and use) at least two options: through Samarkand and Khujand.

2.1. Samarkand

2.1.1. Getting to Samarkand.

Samarkand can now be reached by a direct flight of Uzbekistan Airways from Moscow. The exact schedule is determined in April. Usually in summer, flights fly twice a week, which is quite convenient for travel planning. In addition, the cost of the flight is relatively low. In 2004, we took group tickets for $ 278 in both directions. For individuals - $ 293 in both directions.

Of course, this option involves both arrival from Samarkand and departure from it, since a one-way ticket only costs more.

Except by plane, you can get to Samarkand from Tashkent, which has a train from Moscow. But even with the low cost of travel by train, a simple calculation shows that by plane to Samarkand is much more economically profitable, since a lot is eaten on the train and you additionally need to get from Tashkent to Samarkand. The train can be used to transport "cargo", since the transportation of "overweight" in an airplane is expensive A($1.6 per kg over 20 kg free). Two or three people from the group can go with the cargo.

2.1.2. Accommodation in Samarkand.

In Samarkand there is a climbing base "Artuch", which is near the airport and bus station. True, the definition of "alpinist" remained only historically and very conditionally. At the moment, this is just a base for very cheap accommodation for tourists who do not care about comfort, but the material aspect is more important. In 2003, accommodation cost about $1.5 per night in rooms, and now it's about $5. There are beds on the territory of the base where you can just spread out sleeping bags in the fresh air. It is hot in Samarkand in summer and this option is sometimes even more pleasant than spending the night in rooms. And by the end of summer - the base has its own grapes!

From the airport - five minutes walk, from the bus station - one minute crawling.

Of course, there are more decent accommodation options in Samarkand: hotels different levels, as well as the so-called B&B (bed&breakfast) - private hotels of a very good standard and not very expensive ($15-20 per person per night). In summer they must be booked in advance. If you want to rest in decent, normal, human conditions before or, more logically, after climbing, choose B&B and you won't go wrong.

2.1.3. Delivery to the mountains from Samarkand.

Delivery to the mountains from Samarkand consists of two stages. Samarkand ("Uzbek") transport picks up the group with cargo and takes them to the Uzbek-Tajik border. After passing through the border formalities (see below), the group is taken by "Tajik" transport and driven to the mountains.

On the Tajik side good transport, capable of reaching the mountains, is quite difficult to find. We use the Ural type with "shift work", bus, KAMAZ, UAZ for small groups. Unfortunately, delays on the road due to breakdowns are quite normal, the equipment is all worn out, you need to be prepared for this.

The border passes near the city of Penjikent, where a stop is made to buy products at the bazaar.

The road goes along the valley of the Zeravshan River, the valley gradually narrows and turns into a gorge, bounded from the north by the Turkestan, and from the south by the Zeravshan ranges.

If the group needs to get to the remains of the Artuch alpine camp (do not confuse it with the alp base in Samarkand), then the road turns from the village of Shurcha, which is 50 km from Penjikent. Transport can only reach Artuch, respectively, further (about 10 km) to the Kulikalon Valley, you must carry the entire load either on yourself or order donkeys.

But basically, all groups tend to settle in the MATC "Vertical-Alaudin", and go further to the city of Aini, administrative center Aini district, where a stop for lunch is possible, and then the road turns towards Dushanbe to the south along the Fandarya River (the left tributary of the Zeravshan River), and after 30 km it turns east along the Pasrud River through the villages of Pasrud and Marguzor (the last village in the valley) . Along the river Pasrud passes the real Mountain road, where only four-wheel drive vehicles can pass due to several steep sections, 30 km, and the road leads directly to the Alaudin ITC, where tea-cake is waiting for the group.

The total "running" time Samarkand - Alaudin is about 8-9 hours, but you need to lay a whole day on the way, since the real time depends on the speed of crossing the border, the time at the bazaar, the state of the road, transport, etc. And just the "Asian" factor - "DO NOT rush in the heat" - plays an important role.

2.2. Through Khujand

The delivery option via Khujand (Khujand, Khudzhent, former Leninabad) is convenient because you do not have to cross the Uzbek-Tajik border. However,…

2.2.1. Getting to Khujand

The Volgograd-Andijan train used to run through the Leninabad station. Unfortunately, now this train is not available and it is rather difficult to get from Moscow "by land". In 2004 there was a train from Saratov… But every time you need to clarify. Therefore, the only option is on the plane of the Tajik Airlines Moscow - Khujand - Moscow. In summer, flights are made three to four times a week, but you should always check the schedule for specific dates, as it can change "promptly".

The cost of the flight is 340 dollars in both directions (for the summer of 2004), group discounts are not provided.

2.2.2. Delivery to the mountains from Khujand.

Transport meets the group at the airport after passing through passport and customs formalities. It is possible to stay in Khojand or Ura-Tupe.

In the morning - visiting the bazaar in Ura-Tupe, buying groceries and driving through the Shakhristan pass to the city of Ayni with a continuation to the Alaudin MATC, as described above.

Travel time is almost the same as from Samarkand, and additionally depends on the condition of the road at the Shakhristan pass. But since this road is almost officially considered the "road of life", it is maintained in a fairly normal condition.

2.3. Other options

For a long time we could not recommend getting to Fany through Dushanbe due to the somewhat unstable political and military situation both in Dushanbe and on the way north through Varzob and the Anzob pass. Now this option can be considered.

Above, I considered options for getting to the area from Moscow. If groups are traveling from other cities, you need to specify where it is more convenient to fly or go, whether there is a train connection with Khojent, for example, or a direct plane connection with Samarkand, Tashkent, Khujand, etc.

In any case, we can meet groups in Samarkand, Tashkent, Khujand, Dushanbe.

3. Formalities

3.1. Formalities of stay of citizens of the Russian Federation in Uzbekistan and Tajikistan

The main thing is that we still DO NOT need a visa to visit these states.

Keep in mind the following:

You must travel with a valid passport. You need to check the validity of your passport.
when passing the border, it is obligatory to fill out a declaration for the imported currency. The limit on the imported amount must be clarified before the trip, as "operational" changes are possible. The declaration must be kept "until the end of the trip." A customs stamp is required. The amount of the exported currency should not be more than the imported one. You need to declare ALL imported currency (all types - dollars, rubles, yuan, tugriks ...).
it is highly recommended to exchange currency at a bank with the receipt of an appropriate document on the exchange.
always and everywhere be careful and attentive, count money, keep documents and money with you, etc. Actually - like everywhere else.
Be extremely polite and friendly with the local police. It is not recommended to swear, shout, sort things out with representatives of local authorities. You must always have your passport with you, and if you are in the city for more than three days, then according to the Residence Law foreign citizens in the Republic of Tajikistan, it is necessary to register national passports.

3.2. Crossing the border Uzbekistan-Tajikistan

Until now, the procedure (its duration and complexity) of crossing the border largely depends on the mood of border guards and customs officers, the health of their children and relatives, the prospects for marriage or marriage or their children entering a university, etc.

The procedure can take several minutes (checking documents, filling out a declaration and that’s all), or a couple of hours with a full inspection of luggage, finding errors in passports, foodstuffs “forbidden” to be transported, medicines, substances “similar” to drugs, unwashed wheels on vehicles, etc. .d.

An example of such papers can be: solid travel certificates, referrals from alp clubs and tourist clubs, an educational institution, with lists (name, passport number, date of birth, position in a group), signatures and seals, confirmation of participation in an event, for example, in sports camps, in the Alpinism Championship and other sporting events. Options are possible. Moreover, all papers must be in several copies, since on the way you may have to show them and even leave them several times.

The presence of relevant documents greatly simplifies the procedure for crossing the border and moving around Tajikistan.

In addition, you need to be careful about the pharmacy, which any group should have with them in the mountains. ALL medicines must be in original, undamaged packaging so that even the slightest suspicion of the transport of narcotic drugs cannot arise.

A special permit is required for the transport of radio stations.

3.3. Local population

Everything is simple here - like any ordinary person, and especially in Asia, locals very sociable, hospitable, kind and smiling. If you visit them, you are always provided with tea and a cake, at least.

Even though they are extremely poor. You can and should be friends with them.

We call on everyone who goes to Fany to help them in any way they can.

Every year we collect clothes, shoes from which we ourselves and our children have grown, medicines, books and other things in our mezzanine wardrobes. Especially the locals need warm clothes and rubber shoes, which they wear almost all year round.

4. MATC "Alaudin"

In glorious year 1991, the Moscow company Vertical laid the foundations sports complex in the Fann Mountains in a clearing next to the summer camp below the Big Alaudinskoye Lake. A full-fledged recreation center in the mountains was conceived, with infrastructure, a restaurant, etc. Due to well-known events, the construction was delayed for several years and the project had to be adjusted, reducing it to the minimum possible.

In 1995, the base received its first clients - Japanese climbers, who happily spent 20 days there, climbing three instead of ten planned peaks. To the question - "Why?" they reasonably answered: "Why? We are sooo good here!"

On this moment on the base, which we call the International Climbing and Tourist Center "Vertical-Alaudin", there is:

Three two-story cottages. In each cottage: three rooms - one small one with one bed, but you can put a second one, two large ones with four beds, wooden beds with mattresses and bedding, one toilet with a normal, excuse me, toilet bowl and sewerage, an Israeli electric water heater with an Atmor shower.
The building of the dining room is a "mountain restaurant" with a kitchen and a gas stove, on which our cook cooks wonderful pilaf and a lot of different dishes. The restaurant is made of stones and its walls can serve as a rock simulator. Windows, doors, ceiling are decorated with wonderful wood carvings.
Diesel generator. Usually it turns on in the evening, but you can agree on the inclusion at any time. They provide electricity for the cabins (light and Atmor), for the restaurant (light) and lights on the base.
installation sites campground
boulder 5 - 10 meters high, which can be used as a rock trainer

In the sports center there is our representative Rufina Grigoryevna Arefyeva, master of sports in mountaineering, who has climbed many routes in Fany, who loves and knows Fany. It has the right to issue sports groups on the routes. She can give any advice on routes. The base contains quite a decent library of descriptions of climbing routes, which you can use.

Unfortunately, we do not have the opportunity to organize a full-fledged alp camp structure with the appropriate staff and equipment. Please keep this in mind when organizing your trip to Fany.

We offer:

Transport for the delivery of groups from Samarkand, Tashkent, Khujand to the ITC "Vertical-Alaudin" and back, as well as to / from anywhere in the Fann Mountains by prior arrangement,
Purchasing products during the gathering, if you run out of something,
Accommodation of "support groups" consisting of wives-girlfriends-children in cottages,
Meals in a mountain restaurant,
Refueling of gas cylinders for burners,
Route advice,
The organization of donkeys with drovers for the transportation of goods to base camps above the MATC and to other valleys.
Conducting trekking for those who are reluctant to deal with the fuss of organizing trips and have the means to pay for such services. We will provide a guide, donkeys and drivers to carry things, tents.

The plans include the construction of a mini-hydro-electric power station.

Every year, at our own expense, we help the local collective farm (collective farms still exist here!) to clean the road and repair bridges, which are always blown away during floods.

MATC "Vertical-Alaudin" is located very conveniently both for climbing and for hiking.

MATC is located in the valley of the Chapdara River, the right tributary of the river. Pasrud, 30 minutes below the Big Alaudin Lake, exactly under the peak of Alaudin. From MATC "Vertical-Alaudin":

no more than 4-4.5 hours to the upper reaches of the river valley. Chapdara with Mutnye Lakes (3200m) (after 3-4 days of acclimatization, this distance is covered in 2.5-3 hours),

no more than an hour under the Bodhona glacier,
hour of approach under Chapdara,
3 hours (for acclimatized) to the Alaudin or Laudan pass to go to the Kulikalon valley.

So, based in our sports center, you can go almost 70% of the district's routes.

Base camps are usually organized:

On the Big Alaudin lake (four-five places),
on Mutnye Lakes (five or six camps can fit on Mutnye Lakes),
on Kulikalon lakes (five-six camps).

Ecology.

The Fann Mountains were a super popular area for climbing, hiking, and there were also two trade union "mattress" routes. I remember the times when notes on the passes were passed from hand to hand, and not hidden on tour! Over the years, mountains of cans have accumulated in the mountains. These mountains of cans do not just spoil the view, they are not just unpleasant - they are like a silent reproach, they are like a shame to us all!

Every season, we ask climbers to collect a certain number of cans, which can fit in a backpack and bring to the camp, when descending to the MATC, to help clear these beautiful mountains. We then take these cans ourselves downstairs where they can be disposed of. Unfortunately, local authorities they do not want to do this, and in the near future they will not.

We call on everyone who comes to Fany (actually, this may apply not only to Fany) to do their best to help clean up piles of cans that have been around for years. And it’s somehow indecent to talk and warn about not leaving garbage behind, as it has become so normal for our generation of climbers and tourists traveling in the Alps, the Himalayas, the Pyrenees, as well as the Andes and the Cordillera and seeing the attitude towards their nature in these areas.

5. Peaks, passes, routes in Fany

Unfortunately, there are practically no descriptions of all routes, both climbing and tourist ones, in digitized form. To get acquainted with detailed descriptions it is necessary to apply to the libraries of the FAR, local federations, to the library of the MGTSTK (while it is still available).

Here I will also give a brief information about the possibilities of the area, some photos and links on the Internet, where you can find some descriptions of climbing and hiking routes.

5.1. Peaks

5.1.1. The highest point of the Fann Mountains is the beautiful Chimtarga 5487m.

On Chimtarga there is a classic simple route (2A), which goes from the Mutnye Lakes through the Avlodon pass (category 3B *, but it is one-sided and climbs along the simple side, with feet), then along the ridge of the Kulikalon wall through c. Mirali and along the snow dome to the top.

The route is clearly visible in the photo. The same photo shows other routes on the eastern slopes of Chimtarga.

View from the top of Chimtarga to Mutnye lakes. "Spaces" for base camps are clearly visible

View from the top of Chimtarga towards the valley of the Zindon River (to the west). View of Big Allo Lake

View of the south wall of Chimtarga from the glacier under the Kaznok lane

Passing the key on the route from the South-East, which I wrote about in the story: "", and only now I found out that it is 5B (with Vladimir Kopylov), I always thought that it was 4B no more, especially since there were no particular difficulties for did not find itself (well, except that it did not fit in this very crack)

5.1.2 Chapdara (5050m)

There are no easy routes. The easiest route goes along the Northern ridge from the Talbas pass. Due to the characteristic gendarme in profile resembling the Sphinx, this route was called "Sphinx", 5A. And if you look at the front, the upper part is very reminiscent of a frog.

The northwestern wall is famous for one of the most difficult routes in the area - Solonikova, 6B, through the "book".

The northeastern face of Chapdara is 1500m vertical, routes 5b-6a are laid here.

5.1.3 Bodhona (5138m)

Again, there are no easy routes. The most interesting and attractive is the Western Wall - a bastion more than 1300m high, shot up above the Bodkhona glacier. It is here that six routes are laid.

To climb the Western Face, you need to go from the MATC to the glacier in advance (about 4 hours with a load) and organize base camp on the glacier in a safe place.

On the northern wall there are two routes of the 6th category of complexity of the Kudinov and Bogdanov maoshroutes.

The kilometer-long Western Face, facing the Mutnye Lakes, is an object of pleasant climbing on warm rocks.

The northern and northeastern slopes form a gorge together with the western wall of Bodkhona. Five routes are laid here, climbing the dirretissima.

The most difficult route 5B runs along the wall of Parandas.

5.1.2-3-4

Look at the photo on the left for all three of the most difficult five-thousanders of the Fann Mountains together

5.1.5. Kulikalon Wall

This is the Wall with a capital letter. The northern orientation determined its character. It is always cold, it is crossed by hanging glaciers, increasing the difficulty of passing the routes rising to the. Mirali is almost vertical. And the route along the left edge was passed by the American Lowe and is the route of ascent to the Avlodon Pass 3B *, passed by tourists only once.

B O Of greater interest is the North-West Face of the summit, a one-kilometer vertical, where two six-route routes pass.

This is far from full list vertices and routes. More than two hundred routes have been completed, and probably no less are waiting for their pioneers.

Panorama of the five-thousanders, taken from the top of Chimtarga:

5.2. passes

Here I have no opportunity to describe all the passes that were passed in the Fann Mountains. There are a lot of them - from n / a to the most difficult 3B. Accordingly, in Fany it is possible to build sports hiking routes of any complexity.

Geographic Data - Map of the Fann Mountains

Administratively, the Fann Mountains on the map occupied the Sughd region of Tajikistan (formerly the Khojand region, and in the Soviet period, the Leninabad region). Regional center is the city of Khujand.

Geographically, the Fans can be called a kind of meridional bridge, between two powerful latitudinally oriented ridges of the Pamir-Alai mountain system- Zeravshan ridge from the north and Gissar from the south. Being protected and insulated, the edge, thanks to this, is distinguished by a unique and peculiar climate, which is manifested by the species and number of inhabitants in the flora and fauna.

Length mountain range is about 10 km. The hollow, surrounded by ridges, is connected with the outside world by the only drain, the path of which runs along the gorge of the Fandarya River in the Zeravshan Range. Most of the water in this area moves along the Zeravshan River, which is 780 km long. It ranks third among the rivers of Central Asia. The first two places are occupied by the rivers - Syr Darya and Amu Darya.

The names given to the places, peaks and passes of the Fann Mountains consist of three groups:

The first includes names, the semantic meaning of which could not be revealed. These include Fandarya, Fan-Ulla, Hansa, Zinakh. According to local Tajiks, these names remained, as monuments, from the earlier living people.
The second group includes the names received from the Tajiks of our time. As a rule, the names lend themselves to translation into Russian. For example, "Yagnob", meaning "Ice water", "Zindon", meaning prison.
The third group consists of names received from travelers, climbers and tourists who previously made a trip to the Fann Mountains. With their light hand, the peak was nicknamed Energy, the mountain - Dozhdemernaya, the top - Moscow, and the pass - Double.

In the Fans, located further south than the area with the Caucasus Mountains, the climate is dry and stable. Such a continental climate is characterized by a small amount of precipitation per year, only about 250 mm.

The hot summer is almost not accompanied by precipitation. From June to the end of September-beginning of October, the presence of warm calm weather is guaranteed.

Winter is frosty. But, due to the proximity to the 39th parallel, the difference in heights, oriented gorges and slopes, as well as the direction of the prevailing winds, there is a softening of temperature differences. This divides area on climatic zones both vertically and horizontally, that is, when moving from west to east.

Due to vertical zonality, the lower reaches of the gorges (1400−1600 m) receive a mild winter, accompanied by frequent thaws and hot, but without stuffiness, summer. A decrease to negative temperatures is typical for December-January. For every 100 m of ascent, there is a drop in temperature of 0.6-7 C, combined with an increase in precipitation.

At an altitude of 3200−3400 m, the appearance of positive temperatures is observed only from May to September. Altitudes up to 5500 m are characterized by the predominance of the cold period, with frosty summers (-12 C) and winters, where the temperature drops to 30 C. However, as a result of intense solar exposure, on clear days, the rocks heat up, which leads to snow melting on those slopes where the rays hit.

The most pleasant zone with meadows and forests can be seen at an altitude of 2000-2800 m. summer day the air is well warmed by the sun, so the nights, at an altitude of 2500 m, remain relatively warm.

With western and southwestern winds blowing from Afghanistan and the Iranian highlands, precipitation is brought to Fana from the Atlantic. Faced with a natural barrier - the Hissar Range, these air currents come to Fany weakened, lost along the way. most moisture.

This loss (up to 2 thousand mm per year) settles in the valleys Hissar located along the banks of the rivers: Kashkadarya, Surkhanarya, Kafirnigan and Sorboga.

Alautda and Kulikalon lakes receive less precipitation. And in the lower reaches of the Pasrud, Fandarya and Iskanderdarya, aridity is observed.

Features of nature

The Fann Mountains, whose photos demonstrate their splendor, are surprisingly rich beautiful lakes, mountain peaks dressed in snow and ice caps. Here you can admire the stone "dams" consisting of giant steps, "mounds" of ancient moraines and landslides that block the valleys.

The landslides look like vertical kilometer-long rocky sides, composed of metamorphic limestone and shale, smoothed out by precipitation that has fallen over thousands of years.

Climbing the stairs, following the most transparent rivers rapidly flowing along the bottom of the gorge, you can admire the magnificent lakes that feed unique relic juniper forests, as well as rare birds and animals, and their natural environment a habitat.

Fan's feature is wide use ancient terminal and bottom moraines, lakes formed by retreating glaciers, transverse profile with a trough character (i.e., a rounded bottom and steep high walls licked with ice) of valleys.

highest point Fan is a place on the peak of Chimtarga (5494 m). From the south, Chimtarga is adjacent to the peak of Energia (5100 m), belonging to the Zeravshan Range. The northern neighbor of Chimtarga is Mirali (5200 m). The northern spur is beautiful with its wonderful peaks: Bodhonoy (5300 m) and Chapdara (5200 m), and the southern one - with the peaks: Krasnaya Zorya and White Bars.

The Eastern Fan Range, sequentially, starting from Energia, consists of peaks:

Four-thousanders: Snakes (4150 m), Physical Culture and Sports (4120 m), Gratulets (4230 m), Chinala with a spur of Fagitar (4277 m), Payhambera (4958 m).
Five-thousanders: Castle (5070 m), Black Peak (5010 m), Small Hansa (5031 m), Big Hansa (5306 m).
Four-thousanders: Fan-Ulla, Sarof, Ship, Zinakh, Shome.

The nodal peak of Sarof, in the north and south, continues with spurs:

In the north - Turzulsky, with peaks: Step (4200 m), Patrush Tower (4040 m) and Tangi.
In the south - a short spur with a four thousandth peak Fingers (4150 m).

Peaks on the Western Fansky Ridge represented by peaks: Maria (4800 m), Aurondag (4600 m), Saryshah (4700 m), Gaznych (4200 m).

In the Zeravshan Range, south of the Energia peak, the places are occupied by the peaks: the Rocky Wall (4734 m), Moscow (5200 m), sugar loaf(about 5 thousand m), Furry (4600 m). And then, turning to the west, the ridge continues with a powerful rock-ice barrier Dukdon, the peaks of which reach 5 thousand meters in height.

Glacier walk

Since the great glaciation, the entire inner part of the basin of the Fann Mountains and Yagnob has been filled with ice. As a result of climate softening, the ice massif separated, which led to the emergence of several glaciers descending to the very bottom of the basin - the Fandarya Gorge.

Gradually retreating, the glaciers left traces in the form of a heap of terminal moraines and vast lakes formed after the ice melted. Meeting in the hollow of the Fandarya, melt water methodically pierced the limestone walls of the Zeravshan Range, which it succeeded more successfully than impacting the granite of the Gissar Range. As a result cutting through the ridge, the waters entered the Zeravshan valley, a narrow canyon.

The state of modern glaciers is in a recession phase. The degree of freezing that can be observed now is only a faint trace of the great glaciation, which in former times densely covered the now flourishing valleys like a shell.

The influence of the dry climate has led to the reduction of glaciers. Currently, the number of glaciers descending from the Gissar and Zeravshan ranges is limited to only a hundred peaks. There is a rapid reduction in the ice sheet, caused by the retreat of glaciers. The former size can be judged only by the number of preserved terminal and bottom moraines.

The entire territory of the Kulikalon basin was covered by a large glacier, which is why today it looks like a continuous bottom moraine. From this glacier, the terminal moraine was formed at the source of the Artuch River. During the retreat and reduction, the glacier was divided by two streams.

The first remained moraine lake Kulikalon and several short glaciers in the Kulikalon wall to the south of the lake. The outcome of the second stream started from the base of the walls supporting the top of the Mirali. Its terminal moraine can admire at Lake Bibi Jonat. The trace of this glacier is also imprinted in the form of moraine lakes of Dyushakha, a short glacier of Maria and hanging glaciers under the slopes formed at the Intermediate peak.

The gorge with the source of the Chapdara River was also subjected to great glaciation. The glacier descended lower than the Alautda lakes are located. Its terminal moraine is now occupied by overgrown forest.

In the process of melting and retreat, the glacier also had periods of equilibrium, during which the terminal moraines were deposited over the territory of the Big Alautdinskoye Lake and above, which now appear in three moraine ramparts. The space between the ramparts was filled with bottom sediments, with numerous moraine lakes, preserved and dried up.

Above the level of the Second Shaft, the glacier split. One branch was fed by water flowing from Chapdara, Bodkhon and the northern slopes of the Castle. It left traces in the form of a high yellow moraine and a fresh moraine on the modern Bodhona glacier. The second branch remained glaciers - Payhamber and Zamok.

The largest branch was united by the glaciers of the Mutnye Lakes. The final moraine of this glacier is represented by the Third Shaft. This glacier too had to retreat, leaving a trail in the form of a bottom moraine between the Third Shaft and the shores of Mutnye Lakes.

Currently Mutnye lakes are surrounded by four glaciers descending from the Kaznok pass and peaks: Energia, Chimtarga and Mirali. The ridge of Chimtarga is also the starting point for the descending curious glacier, which is divided below into two tongues.

Fans - lakes and rivers among mountain peaks

In Fany there are about 40 lakes of different character and size. At one time, each of the Fann lakes had its own pedestal, lined with ancient and fresh moraines, formed after the melting and retreat of glaciers. Only the lakes Turquoise and Akhbasher managed to occupy depressions in the snow-gravelly slopes.

Today, one can see a strong reduction in the size of some lakes, which is caused by a decrease in the inflow of water to them. Some have disappeared altogether. Pre-existing lakes can now be guessed from dried up depressions. For example, on dry bottoms above the Alautda lakes. Large lakes the current valleys - Sarytoga and Pasruda - were once occupied.

Tajikistan is characterized by a system of two lakes. This can be observed with Dyushah, Zirat, Kulikalon, Chukurak, Fluffy. The upper lake, filled with precipitation, shares water with the lower one. And when the level in the upper lake falls, the lower one, without receiving water, becomes smaller in size or temporarily dries up.

The sources of the rivers originate at about three thousandth meter height. They are fed mainly by glaciers and snowfields, receiving meltwater from them. Feeding rainfall in terms of importance, in second place. Rivers receive even less nourishment from underground springs and springs.

Traditionally, average temperature water in the rivers Fan is a mark: 5−12 C.

The water level depends on the season. An increase in the water level in the rivers is observed during the spring months and early summer. A temporary rise in the water level is facilitated by what happens in the mountains heavy rains. The end of summer for many rivers ends with shallowing. IN winter time river flow is decreasing.

Glacier-fed streams and glacial streams are subject to diurnal regime fluctuations. The appearance of water is observed at 10-11 am, and after sunset it disappears.

The regime of rivers is regulated by numerous lakes. In winter, the water of large rivers does not freeze, while shallow ones either dry up or ice forms on them. Basically, there are either no fish at all or only small ones of its representatives are found.

The Fann rivers come from two basins - the Fandarya and Kshtutdarya rivers. The Fandarya basin gives life to the rivers Pasruda, Yagnob and Iskanderdarya.

The Fan rivers, as can be seen in the video, are great place for rafting tourists of any level of training.