Self-guided trekking in the Himalayas, Annapurna, Poon Hill. Trekking in Nepal: routes, tracks, preparation and my personal experience

Have you ever gone to the mountains? What about the Himalayas? It was my dream to visit the Himalayas, to see the most high mountains in the world - 8 thousandths of Annapurna, walk next to them and conquer a height of 5416 meters ... But for some reason, when I was packing my backpack to Nepal, I had absolutely no idea what these Himalayas were.

Usually people read a lot of information about countries, tracks, mountains, routes. They make a clear plan of where to go, what to take with me, but I somehow missed this moment ... It seemed to me that the track in the mountains of Nepal is a walk through the forest, where the birds sing, you can see the snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas, and you walk like that and enjoy nature … But it turned out that this was not so, however, when I realized the seriousness of my journey, it was already too late.

Little help:
The Himalayas are the highest mountain system on Earth. Average Height ridges about 6 km, maximum 8848 m - Mount Chomolungma (Everest). There are 10 eight-thousanders here - peaks with a height of more than 8000 m above sea level. In the northwest of the western chain of the Himalayas is another highest mountain system - the Karakoram. High in the mountains, summer frosts exceed -25 ° C, and in winter the temperature drops to -40 ° C. It is also often seen here hurricane winds at speeds up to 150 km / h and a sharp change in weather.

It was enough to read a little help from Wikipedia to understand that you need to take at least a winter jacket with you. Having seen enough beautiful photos on Instagram of girls in the same T-shirts on the background snow-capped peaks I took not so many warm clothes, which I regretted on the first night.

Unfortunately, there are quite a few such “adventurers”, as well as photographs of naked people in the mountains of Nepal .. as well as complete ignorance of the trackers what they are going for. On the Internet you can find a lot of enthusiastic reviews about the beauty of the mountains, but there is little really useful and truthful information about the life of tracks in Nepal. That is why I decided to write full article titled "The whole truth about trekking in Nepal", based on personal experience of trekking around Mount Annapurna, as well as on the stories of a professional guide, let's go!

WHAT IS TREKKING AND HIKING

Trekking / trekking is a hiking trip along a pre-compiled and equipped route - a track, in fairly comfortable conditions and an accessible view active rest. Hiking, in turn, is the same hike, but in the mountains (it is important to understand that this is not mountain tourism and not climbing). Do I need a tent, where to sleep, how and what to eat, how not to get lost in the mountains, how much does a track in Nepal cost and other questions I will try to answer as detailed as possible below.

ABOUT WEATHER AND SEASON:

Trekking season in Nepal: April-May, end of September - November, but even in these months it is cold. Why only these months? The explanation is very simple - Nepal is located in the tropics and the seasons are very pronounced here: dry and rainy seasons. Nobody wants to go under heavy rains? Therefore, choose April-May or October-November for the track.

Despite the fact that Nepal is located in the tropics and in Kathmandu itself there can be unbearable heat, the higher the mountains, the colder. Literally after a couple of days of trekking, dubak begins. As soon as the sun sets behind the mountain, it immediately becomes piercingly cold, the sun comes out and it gets warmer. The average temperature in the mountains during this period is +15 during the day, 0 at night, above 5000m the temperature can reach -15, meters of snow can lie on the pass. Photos in t-shirts? Either staging, or a person is constantly hot (there are such).

ABOUT THE TRAILS:

Stairway to heaven - that's how I thought about my first steps on the track. If the path goes down, then it will soon crawl up, because our road always moves up, right? This means that the path must also creep up .. Trekking in Nepal is far from a walk through the forest. Before traveling, you should do any physical activity - gym, running, long walks.

The trails are very well trodden. There will be a sign at every turn. If the trail collapses or is covered with snow, it will be laid again. Getting lost in the mountains is quite difficult, but possible. If you feel that you are going somewhere wrong, it is better to turn back. Remember that the track is a fairly well-paved and marked route.

LIFE ON THE TRACK:

Overnight on the track in Nepal is organized in loggias - local houses, like a hostel-hotel. Accommodation there is 2-3 local, in the season the rooms are paid, in the off season you can negotiate for food. It is supposed to eat in the loggia, where he stopped for the night. It is considered bad manners to go to dinner at another lodge. Moreover, there is no benefit in this. Food and prices in one village do not differ on average, but your host can write you a huge amount for accommodation on your bill. During the day, you can have a bite to eat at any of the same lodges along the way. All of them are organized as food and lodging. Prepared by the owners themselves.

The food in the loggias is quite varied, but not full of vitamins: rice, potatoes, pasta in different variations. It is recommended to have not only good health, but also some vitamins with you. They will come in handy. Beer, soda, snickers and even chips up to 5000m are sold at any lodge.

Water up to 3000m in streams and waterfalls is dirty and full of all kinds of infection. Bottled water is sold at the rate of 1l = $3. For breakfast-lunch-dinner it is advantageous to order a large thermos (big pot) with tea. It is not worth saving on water ... who knows what dead carcass lies and flows into this stream, it is better to buy purified water in a bottle. For the whole track, I didn't want to drink at all clean water, but in every village I did not refuse a huge mug of hot ginger lemon tea (ginger-lemon tea).

As for the improvement of the loggias, then you should understand - modestly. The room has a bed, blankets are provided by the owners. It is necessary to sleep in your own sleeping bag and it is better to have the comfort of 0°C. If there is a toilet right in the room, then this is a luxury. Look for a lodge with hot showers. It should be noted here that the shower must be necessarily GAS. Of course, they will tell you that they have a hot shower - yeah, from the sun, it warmed up during the day .. But when you find out, it will be too late to change the lodge. There are sockets in the room only up to 3000m. On the trek to the Everest base camp, all sockets are paid, as are wifi and even a shower. Not so expensive ($1-2), but worth budgeting.

I tried to save on tea and bought a kettle in advance. Imagine my surprise when, because of my boiler, the light was turned off in the whole village. There is a problem with electricity. We managed to boil tea a couple of times. It didn't bring any significant savings. True, you can take tea bags and order hot water. Sometimes it makes sense. Compare the price of water and tea.

CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT:

I'll just leave it here:

Thus, a set of clothes should include everything from a T-shirt to a puff with warm socks. The weather in the mountains is unpredictable: the sun shone all day, and in the morning meters of snow piled up. Any doubts left? In fact, the list of things is not so long, and the weight of the backpack should be no more than 10 kg. I will describe the equipment for the track around Annapurna in a separate article.

ALTITUDE AND MOUNTAIN SICKNESS:

Tracks in Nepal run at various altitudes. But do not forget that mountain sickness can develop in the mountains. This is a painful human condition associated with oxygen starvation, which occurs high in the mountains from about 2000 m above sea level. Physical fatigue, cooling, dehydration, excessive ultraviolet light, difficult camping conditions and sudden changes in temperature can affect the development of mountain sickness (slang for mountain sickness). Hypoxia in a neglected state causes cerebral edema and rapid death.

A person is able to adapt to hypoxia (oxygen starvation). That is why it is extremely important to smoothly and competently gain altitude in order to allow the body to get used to the new state. Up to 3000 meters you can go as far as your physical abilities. But above - gain no more than 300-400 meters per day, and also sleep below the high point for the day. For example, today your maximum altitude per day was 4000m, so you should sleep at 3900m. It is also necessary to make radial exits.

SAFETY:

"It is difficult to meet a more peaceful person than a Buddhist"- this is how the famous artist, ethnographer and traveler N.K. Roerich wrote about his trip to the Himalayas and Tibet. However, I heard about cases of theft, murder and rape in the mountains of Nepal. I don't want to scare you in any way! These cases are isolated, but it is better to know about them.

Theft: Carry all your money and documents with you. There are special wearable wallets that you can hang around your neck and be with them 24 hours a day.
Violence: if, of course, you are attracted to hungry mountain Nepalese, then you can go to the track alone, having previously pointed a marafet and with a “I want sex” sign. But seriously, I would highly discourage girls from traveling in the mountains alone. Even if you don't have a company, you can join a group or join other trackers.

Summing up:

We recommend that you go trekking in Nepal under the guidance of an experienced guide. He will help you at any stage of your journey through the Himalayas: from equipment to completing the track and returning in good health. Share your travel experience, support morally and psychologically and take care of your safety throughout the entire route.

Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) is an ideal route for a first acquaintance with Naples and the Himalayas. Nepal is famous for having 8 of the 10 most high peaks of the world are precisely its territories. Any hike in Nepal is a great choice as we will be able to visit the Himalayas - the highest mountain range on the planet. Climbers from all over the world dream of visiting the Himalayan peaks, for which you need to have excellent health and excellent technical training. But to see all this mountain splendor, it is not necessary to be a climber. Trekking routes have been laid across the Himalayas, which are planned so that an ordinary person without mountaineering training can go through here and see a lot.

Trekking to the Annapurna base camp is a route in which we will get acquainted with the diverse nature of the Himalayas, recall the heroic conquests of the Himalayan peaks by climbers. The advantages of trekking to Annapurna are low difficulty, variety of landscapes and the ability to adjust the route for the group. We will go through all climatic zones, from the tropics to the arctic deserts.

In addition to the stunningly beautiful nature, we will get acquainted with the bright original culture Nepal, sights of Kathmandu and Pokhara. The local population is very devout and strictly observes all traditions. Nepalese faith is based on a combination of Buddhism, Hinduism and ancient tantra, which creates a special mood for trekking participants in Nepal. On our way, Buddhist stupas will often come across. These sacred hemispheres are necessarily white, decorated with all-seeing eyes. Prayer flags flutter above them. It is best to bypass these holy places by passing them on the right.

Let's go together on one of the best treks in Nepal!

Benefits of our Nepal trek to Annapurna Base Camp

• We book only good hotels in Kathmandu and Pokhara with breakfast included, clean rooms, bathroom inside. We will live in complete comfort before the track and after it.
• We try to spend the night in the best and most spectacular lodges on the track.
• We are not in a hurry - everyone will have enough time to enjoy the scenery and take a lot of photos.
• We will meet the sunrise in the most beautiful places: Poon Hill, Tadapani, Annapurna base camp.
• At the end of the track, a real pleasure awaits us - we swim in the hot springs of Jin.
• Let's see the main attractions of Pokhara: Lake Phewa (we will go boating), famous waterfall Davisa, the cave where Shiva lives, the Stupa of the world.
• Let's see the main attractions of Kathmandu: Swayambhunath, Patan, Pashupatinath, Boudhanath stupa.

Day 1. Group gathering in Nepal

Arrival to Kathmandu. Obtaining a Nepalese visa ($25). The whole day is devoted to the meeting of the group. We spend the night in the Thamel area, where there is the largest selection of hotels and hostels, as well as shops where you can buy the missing equipment. In the evening - a walk around the city and preparation for an early departure.

Day 2. Transfer Kathmandu - Pokhara - Nayapul, transfer to Ulleri

We are moving to Pokhara. The bus will take us to the third largest city in Nepal - Pokhara, from here all the tracks in the area originate. Next, we will move to the tourist village of Nayapul. Here is the beginning of the protected area, so we register tims and permits. Then the hiking part of the trekking to Annapurna begins. We walk along a very picturesque path with stone steps, surrounded by crowns of rhododendrons, listening to the cries of unknown birds and monkeys. We will have dinner and overnight in the village of Ulleri. From here you can see a wonderful panorama of the top of Khinchuli (6441 m), covered with an ice cap.

Day 3. Ulleri - Gorepani, Poon Hill

Early rise and start. We go to Gorepani - a small village located at an altitude of 2750 m, not far from the Poon Hill observation hill. The local places are famous for the circular panorama of the snow-capped mountain ranges of Dhualagiri (8167), Annapurna (8091), Machapuchare (6997). In the village we will taste delicious cheese made from yak milk and no less delicious apple pies. The climb today is quite easy. We must arrive early in Gorepani, we still have time to rest and take a walk on observation deck Poon Hill (3193m) to see Mountain peaks in the purple colors of the setting sun. Also climbing Poon Hill will help us in getting better acclimatization.

Day 4. Sunrise at Poon Hill (3193 m)

Poon Hill is the place where you should definitely see not only beautiful sunset, but no less magical and unforgettable sunrise. You won't regret getting up early! It seems to be the same mountains, the same sun, but in the morning they are completely different. The snows lying on the peaks of the two Annapurnas (First and South), Dhualagiri, Nilgiri, Machapuchare are first filled with soft orange hues, and then with a real golden sheen ... We go down to the village, have breakfast and continue on our way. First, to the village of Daurali, then to Tadapani, where we will stop for the night. Landscapes, as always, unsurpassed! Below - the greenery of the jungle, above - the whiteness of snowfields, and between them - harsh rocky slopes.

Day 5 Sunrise at Tadapani - Chomrong

Getting up early again. But it's not so early - today we don't have to go anywhere to contemplate another sunrise. We will do it right from the terrace of the lodge. We enjoy the views of Machapuchre, Annapurna South and Khinchuli. Next, we have a steep descent and a smooth ascent to Chomrong - a village in which we will spend the night. Here, too, the views of the mountains are amazing. You can leave unnecessary things in the lodge - on the way back we will follow the same path. Let's go for a swim in the hot springs real pleasure after tiring transitions!

Day 6. Chomrong - Dawang

We slowly descend to the bridge on the Chomrong Khola River. We have to jump as many as 2114 steps. Next, the stairs go up. It will be more difficult. We climb for a long time until we reach the village of Sinuva. We will spend the night in the village of Dovan.

Day 7. Dovan - Machapuchare Base Camp

Our path today begins in the valley of the river Modi Khola. The higher we climb, the surrounding nature becomes more and more severe, less and less greenery, deserted and rocky slopes. Let's go to the Khinku cave - the haven of the holy hermit. Dinner and overnight in Deorali. A six-hour climb will take us to Machapuchare Base Camp (MBC). We leave our things in the lodges and go on a short acclimatization walk to the neighboring ridge. From it opens beautiful view on the moraine of the Annapurna Glacier.

Day 8 Annapurna Base Camp

We leave early today to enjoy the morning colors of Annapurna. There may be a slight frost in the morning. We will make a radial ascent to the base camp of Annapurna. Then we will climb to the observation deck, from where an unforgettable view of the Annapurna massif opens. The mountains shake with their splendor in the rays rising sun. Entering the amphitheater between the peaks of Annapurna, it is as if you find yourself in the heart of the mountains. Each of the peaks shines like a diamond. We walk in the area of ​​the base camp - the end point of the route for us, and for climbers this is only the beginning of the most difficult path. After breakfast we start descending. We will get to the village of Bamboo by the paths we have walked before, where we will rest and sleep.

Day 9. Bamboo - Jinu-Danda hot springs

Let's go back to where it's warm. It will get warmer with every meter. We descend into the Modi Khola gorge, then along the hanging bridge across the river we get to the already familiar 2114 steps. Now we have to climb them. In Chomrong we will rest a bit. When we reach the village of Jinu-Danda, we will again have the opportunity to take medical hot bath restoring strength.

Day 10. Trek and drive to Pokhara

Today is not a difficult day, completing the hiking part of our trekking in Nepal. We will go down to Nayapul, to the bus that will take us to Pokhara.

Day 11. Pokhara

We will try to make the most of the place in the wonderful resort of Pokhara. Boating in the morning picturesque lake Feva, which was very fond of the royal family that used to live here. On the opposite bank is the Stupa of Peace. It offers stunning views of Pokhara and the peaks of the Annapurna Ring. Next, by bus, we will drive up to the Davis Falls. The waterfall is not powerful, but there is a very interesting one nearby underground temple Shiva. The supreme god appears to us in the guise of a six-headed snake imprisoned in a cage. Behind the cage, an underground passage leads deeper, walking along it, we will go to ... Having examined Pokhara, we get on the bus and move to Kathmandu. We will arrive in the city already dark.

Day 12 Kathmandu tours

In the capital of Nepal, the poverty and simplicity of Nepalese houses contrasts strongly with festive decoration and golden colors. religious buildings Buddhism and Hinduism. Our program on this day will be very rich. First, we will visit the famous Swayambhunath - the Monkey Palace. The Buddhist shrine is located on a hill from which the entire capital is clearly visible. There are actually a lot of wild monkeys here. The second shrine we will see is the Boudhanath Stupa, the largest and most famous stupa in Nepal. Then there will be Pashupatinath - a Hindu shrine, a whole complex of temples and museums where cremations are carried out according to an ancient custom. We will go to the suburb of Kathmandu - Patan, with a large number of ancient palaces, monks, pilgrims and tourists.

Day 13. Kathmandu, departure

Before departure, if time permits, we walk around Kathmandu and buy souvenirs. Our journey has come to an end. We take home a lot of memories and photos.

Photo gallery from the track "To the foot of Annapurna"

Reports from the trek to Annapurna Base Camp

Trekking map in Nepal to Annapurna base camp:

Tour cost: $750

Payment to the instructor in cash in dollars at the meeting. To reserve a place in a group, an advance payment of $ 100 is required.

The tour price includes: a Russian-speaking guide, a Nepalese guide, all necessary permits and permits, accommodation in good hotels and lodges along the route, all transfers along the route, a group first-aid kit, a company gift from the club.

The tour price does not include: airfare (from $550), meals $15-30 per day, visits to paid attractions in Kathmandu $30-40 - optional, Nepalese visa $25 for 15 days, porters $15-30 per day - optional, medical insurance, all other expenses not specified in the program (force majeure, evacuation).

Additional expenses during the tour will be about $330.

Nepal is considered the birthplace of Buddhism. People come here for appeasement, calm and reboot. Thoughts fall into place, the soul comes into balance, feelings are strengthened. It is impossible to travel to Nepal and remain the same - so, at least the Internet says. I came here from the mountains. Just because I love.

Trekking in Nepal is not only serious hiking trips to the mountains and the conquest of peaks and Everest. In fact, anyone can come here and breathe in the Himalayas. Where to go? It all depends on time and finances: the track around Annapurna is long and expensive, to go to Everest you also need enough vacation time, but the road to Poon Hill, for example, is a short and relatively cheap route.

Trekking in Nepal is somewhat similar to hiking, but with some differences. On such a trip, you do not need to take tents and heavy sleeping bags - there are guest houses - lodges along the entire length. In the off season, you can spend the night in them for free, provided that you pay the owners for food in their cafe.
That is, a trip to Nepal is independently organized without provisions and tourist equipment, in principle. Although I know people who take tents with them, spending the night in them is still not free at times. Locals will still take money for parking if you do not order food from them. If you buy food, the overnight stay is free. But one way or another, you have to pay.
All trekking routes are built in such a way that without turning off the intended path, it is impossible to get lost or get into trouble. First, they are marked. Along each path there are guest houses, cafes or tea houses, shops where, in principle, you can buy food if you want to cook on a burner.

Trek to Poon Hill

I chose him, having only 10 days of vacation. Basically walk to Poon Hill, climb it at dawn and you can return to Pokhara and Kathmandu in less time. But I flew to Nepal for the first time, and therefore I took 2 more days to Kathmandu itself and a day of rest after the track in Pokhara.
The maximum altitude on the route is 3210 meters above sea level.
If the goal is only to climb Poon Hill, then 3-4 days is enough, but this place is visited by thousands of tourists every year and the trail is so crowded that it is worth taking a couple more days, making a circular route and wandering around the Himalayas a little alone. You can go in one direction or the other. My best advice will come later.

Trek to Anapurna Base Camp (ABC)

The trek to Annapurna Base Camp is considered easier than the trek to EBC, Everest Base Camp. And a little cheaper. The route is designed for approximately 20 days. If desired, it can be increased to 30 or reduced to 10. In the latter case, most of the local beauties will be missed. Therefore, if you are going to go to the Annapurna base camp, allocate as much personal time as possible to the track.

The highest point on the route is 4,095 m.

Trek around Annapurna

The trek around Annapurna is walked by tens of thousands of people every year. Such data lead travel guides to the Himalayas. But it is still suitable for those who have big amount days, from 20, for example. The trek is circular and partly covers both the Poon Hill trek and the Annapurna base camp trek.

The highest point on the way is 5416 m. (Thorong-la pass)

Trek to Everest

This route is called the road to the dream. Experienced tourists assure that after making such a trip, the world turns upside down, old problems become small and unnecessary, there is a reassessment of values.
Everest base camp is located at an altitude of 5,365 m. Therefore, acclimatization is important here, which means a gradual and smooth ascent, so as not to catch the miner. Therefore, I do not advise laying on this track for less than 15 days. This is how long the road from Lukla to the foot of Everest takes. If you go to Lukla on foot, then you need to add another week here.

The trek to Everest and to Annapurna and Poon Hill cannot be combined in any way, since they are located in different parts of Nepal.

Acclimatization and symptoms of altitude sickness

Some travelers in Nepal do suffer from altitude sickness. This happens and you don’t need to be afraid of it and buy pills in advance. I had them with me in my first aid kit as part of things that I took with me to Nepal, but I decided not to poison myself and acclimatize just right. That is, drink more water, upon arrival at the place of spending the night, do not lie down and drink beer, but walk. And of course, remember the rule: "We walk higher, sleep - lower." That is, try to build a route so that the highest points on the route are not your lodging for the night. If this happens, then try to climb a little higher lightly and go down.

Mountain sickness symptoms:

• Weakness
• Excitability and poor sleep (I didn't sleep well in Tadapani)
• shortness of breath
• Headache
• Cardiopalmus
• Dizziness.

If you feel that you are not getting better, then either stay for a day in the place where you got sick, or go down lower. Then, if everything passes, you can continue the ascent. But on tracks up to 3-4 thousand, this rarely happens and depends on the characteristics of the organism.

My detailed trekking route to Poon Hill and around by day

I already wrote that initially my route was based on reports and how everyone walks. But I studied the question and realized that if you are not going to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC), then there is no point in going clockwise. much easier, and more pleasant, to go in the opposite direction. That is, you need to start the route in Kimche, and not in Nayapul.

I painted all the transitions by day and there are separate articles about this, for those who are interested, with video diaries of each day and photos. Links below.

Day 9 Pokhara - Kathmandu.

My primary itinerary was exactly the opposite. If you watch all my videos by day, you will understand why I ended up going counterclockwise and what I gained from it. In short, for the first few days I didn’t go up as much as people go in the opposite direction.

Chomrong and Dobato were also announced in my route, but due to weather conditions and the fact that the original schedule was lost due to a flight delay, I had to abandon these locations. But what I saw was enough for the first acquaintance with Nepal.

Preparation for independent travel and trekking in Nepal

Numerous travel agencies on interruption offer their services in organizing travel to Nepal. And when you arrive in Kathmandu, you will also not be able to avoid the obsession to organize a route for you. Whether it is worth spending money on their services is up to you. But the prices of tour operators are very high. An independent trip with a flight and food will cost 3-5 times cheaper. Even if you don't save a lot, and even if you take a porter for your backpacks.

The most important thing is to decide how many days you have and only then choose a route. The budget can be calculated only after that.

Route selection

It all depends on the time you plan to spend on the trip and your budget. In particular, all routes can be described as follows:

• There is time - then go to the base camp of Everest, the ring around Annapurna, Lower Dolpo. It will take at least 20 days, but you will also get a huge amount of impressions;
• The more expensive option is the Upper Mustang. Only a permit there costs about 500 dollars. This route is called golden, not everyone can afford it;
• Relatively short and inexpensive options- Poon Hill, Jomsom Track (it stretches a little further than Poon Hill, and you can fly back by plane to Pokhara).

Buying a ticket.

All roads to Nepal lead through Kathmandu airport. There are discounts on a plane to Kathmandu, but you don’t need to buy the cheapest right away without reading the entire route. About how I bought a cheap ticket. And what came of it can be seen in the video of my flight and first day in Kathmandu. In short, I had to spend the night on the floor of the airport in Dubai for 2 nights, round trip. There the plane was delayed for 5 hours.

Accommodation booking.

If you are going to go to the mountains alone or together, then in advance, you can not book places in guest houses - you will still find something suitable for yourself. In those places where everyone stops, there are usually 10-20 guest houses for sure.

If a group is going on a hike, then booking in advance will save your nerves and time.
Booking is usually free. You can only book by phone, there are no lodges in the booking systems, except for a couple in Gorepani and Ghandruk, maybe there will be more of them soon. Already on the route, when you realize that the weather is getting worse or you are tired and assume that all the places will be occupied, you can also call. Sometimes there are maps, at forks, with lodge phone numbers. Here are some, for example.

I had this in Tadapani. A thunderstorm began and the places in the lodges began to run out very quickly. Whoever could and was with a Sherpa called and booked.

Documentation

Tims and Permit (TIMS & Permit)

Permit (permit) is actually permission to visit reserves. Tims (TIMS) is a kind of route book, like ours, which we register in Russia with the Ministry of Emergencies, and in Nepal you write your track, first register in tourist office, and then on the way at the points of entry and exit from the route, they also tear off the control spine and make an entry in the log. On my videos you can see how it happens.

You have to buy them anyway. This needs to be budgeted for.

The cost of a permit to visit the Annapurna reserve is 2,000 rupees + TIMS $20. Everything is processed at the tourist office in Kathmandu Nepal Tourism Board (Pradarshani Marg, Kathmandu) or it is still possible to issue documents in Pokhara, the office is located near the bus stop on which you will arrive in Pokhara. All you need is a passport and money. Photographs are taken on site for free.

There is an opinion that if you are traveling alone, then you may not be given permission and will be forced to take a guide. This is wrong. I got my paperwork done without any questions. I was on the track alone. Learn more about the design here in the video.

Foreign passport and visa

To travel to Nepal you will need international passport and visa. Passport must be valid for 6 months after departure from Nepal. A visa is purchased immediately after arriving at the airport, although it is possible to issue it at the consulate in advance, but it makes sense. The cost depends on the length of your trip.

• Visa for 15 days costs $25;
• Visa for 30 days costs $40;
• Visa for 90 days costs $100.

It is possible to extend your visa at the migration center for $2 per day.

Insurance.

I always take out insurance myself, even if it is not mandatory to visit the country. And if you are planning an active holiday, then even more so. These are mountains and not very rich Asian country, anything can happen. They twisted my leg, ate something wrong, bitten by a fly. Or, God forbid, a severe mountain has happened and you need to be evacuated by helicopter. Pay your hard-earned thousands of dollars or buy insurance for a couple of thousand rubles? I choose the latter.

Everything is bought simply and independently. You can buy with increased coverage only for trekking days, and for the rest you can buy a regular tourist one. I wrote about buying insurance for outdoor activities.

Equipment

About what equipment I planned to take and what turned out to be superfluous from this, and what was not enough for me, I already wrote in the article. In the same place, I described exactly what clothes I was wearing and with me with links, where I bought what.

Transportation in Nepal and to the itinerary

Getting from the airport to Kathmandu, and further to the start of the tracks, is not a problem. The country has developed:

• Taxi;
• buses
• rides;
• or the movement of tourists pooled in jeeps.

I've tried everything except rides.

I would not book a car and drive there on my own.

The cheapest option is the bus. There are cheaper ones for locals, and there are slightly more expensive and comfortable ones. In any lodge and hotel, they will be happy to sell them to you with a minimum margin, or even cheaper than in a tourist office around the corner.

You can get from Kathmandu to Pokhara by bus for $7.

Taxis are generally not expensive by our standards, and after a short walk through the slums of Kathmandu, I preferred to take a taxi around the city. The fee is $5 and it's overpriced!! I also took a taxi to the beginning of the route, to Kimche from Pokhara, for $20. It could have been cheaper, but it was more convenient for me, I was taken to the very end possible after driving all the dusty road. And I returned back to Pokhara in a jeep, collaborating with the locals for $ 15 from Uleri. And of course, I took a taxi from Kathmandu airport to Kathmandu.

WITH local population easy to agree. They willingly bargain and drop prices - do not be shy to ask them about it. Nevertheless, they are still lucky according to the counter, but you pay as agreed if you do not agree on the counter. Here in the photo so many rupees dripped from my office where I received Tims to Durbar Square, 258, and I paid $ 5, I could not insist on going by the counter ((

When is the best time to go to Nepal

Actually, even during the rainy season, which lasts from May to August, you can go. But now the climate is shifting and locals say that it is no longer possible to accurately predict when the rains will start or end. Therefore, trekking in Nepal in late spring, summer, and early autumn is not very good according to forecasts.

Trekking in Nepal in autumn - in September, October, November is considered high season. At this time, there are the most comfortable conditions here - the sun shines brightly, a comfortable and stable air temperature, and a variety of vegetation.

When planning a trip to Nepal in winter - in December, January and February, be prepared for cold weather, especially at an altitude above 3 thousand. You will also need warmer clothes with you and you will not manage with one light puff. But there are few tourists and prices are low. But the main plus of the trip at this time is the clear sky and the opportunity to see the mountains. During the rest of the year, it is possible that due to the humidity you will not be able to see the snow tops all day long. But only at dawn.

I was here at the end of April met her birthday at dawn on Poon Hill, and I will say that for me the weather was already as comfortable as possible. Not hot and not cold. The rain only ruined the plans a couple of times. Rhododendrons have already faded, but in some places they could be found.

Mobile communications and the Internet.

In Nepal, in Kathmandu and Pokhara, in hotels and cafes, as a rule, there is Internet and even free. However, on the track in the mountains cellular catches no longer everywhere, but in lodges and cafes the Internet becomes paid. Not space money, about 100 rupees.

It is also worth budgeting the payment for charging a cell phone and a power bank. In the lodges on the track it is not free, although it is also not very expensive. But if you go for 20 days, this can already become a tangible expense item. There are no outlets in the lodge rooms.

Drinking water, hygiene and unsanitary conditions.

Everyone recommends drinking only bottled water in Nepal. However, in some places on the track in the lodges there are so-called bottles of safe water, so big for coolers. You can get water there for money. Plastic bottles are a curse for the locals in the mountains and the garbage that they take out in tons for tourists. It is better to buy yourself a plastic travel bottle. I used a water filter and collected water from rivers too. Here is my filter.

Some lodges do not hot water, and I want to take a shower after the track. Some have showers in the building next door, not where you sleep. Therefore, choose a place to stay for the night in detail. It may turn out that the difference is not big, but the amenities are an order of magnitude more comfortable.

You can go to the toilet in the same guest and tea houses along the way. Just buy a glass of ginger tea, take a break, and move on. You should not do it in the bushes, only if you are very impatient.

Nepalese cuisine or what to eat on the track

Actually, in detail about the food, what I ate, how much it costs and what Nepalese food looks like, I wrote.

But my personal top looks like this:

• tukpa - noodles in a thick vegetable broth, maybe with meat and vegetarian;
• mo-mo - Nepalese steam dumplings-khinkali with a wide variety of fillings;
• vegetable soup - something like liquid vegetable puree, maybe with small noodles;
• dalbat is a traditional Nepalese food: rice with a side dish of lentils, vegetables and what is locally available and can be with meat and vegetarian. You pay once and they bring you supplements from what ends until you are full, but more often they do not spare rice. In principle, two supplements fill you up to satiety.
• for breakfast I ate oatmeal with Nepalese bread or an omelette. Oatmeal is more nutritious in the mountains)

And finally...

How much does trekking in Nepal cost and how much money to take

It is important to understand that there are no ATMs or exchange offices in the mountains. Therefore, when you go out on the track, change enough money, including for unexpected expenses, even if you have insurance.

There are ATMs in Kathmandu and Pokhara and in some places they accept cards. I withdrew rupees directly from ATMs from a ruble account. But I still brought $ 200 in cash with me, and I had them as NZ for the mountains. In which case it would be possible to pay in local dollars.

Hotels in Kathmandu and Pokhara could be booked in booking.com in advance and paid, so as not to carry extra money. Settlements with the locals are clear - you will be given a check and a price tag will be printed on the calculator.

In short, I spent 20-25 dollars a day. This is inclusive. But beer is quite expensive in Nepal, and it took me 2 bottles a day.

If a little more.

Lodging in lodges - from 200 to 500 rupees for a single, this is with a private bathroom. If you eat on the side, then a room for 200 turns into 500. Double price tags are about 100 rupees more expensive. In Tadapani, a room with a shared bathroom cost 300 rupees, and in the hyped Ghorepani at the foot of Poon Hill, 500 rupees with a private bathroom.

Hotel in Pokhara - $10 per night (I chose a good one).

Hotels in Kathmandu - $11 per night in Thamel and $12 near the Boudhanath stupa.

Bus Kathmandu - Pokhara - Kathmandu - 700 rupees one way.

Taxi in Kathmandu - 500 rupees.

Taxi in Pokhara - 100 rupees.

Taxi from Pokhara to Kimche $20.

A bottle of water 0.5 - 40 rupees.

A bottle of beer 0.6 in Kathmandu and Pokhara - 320-350 rupees ($ 4).

A bottle of beer on the track is 500-550 rupees ($6).

Food (mo-mo, tukpa, noodles) - 300-400 rupees ($ 3-5).

Nepalese hat - 700 rupees.

Paper card - 300 rupees.

5 mangoes and a brush of small bananas - 800 rupees.

How to be always online when traveling?

How do I save on hotels?

The really interesting trekking routes are not only the path under your feet, but also the rich history and culture of the place. National Geographic magazine named the 20 best trekking routes in the Epic Trail nomination.

Pilgrimage to Mount Kailash, Tibet

Best choice for: yogis and other seekers of spiritual enlightenment. Length: 51 km. Hindus believe that on the top of Kailash, at an altitude of 6680 meters, there is the abode of the god Shiva, where he meditates. According to the Vishnu Purana, the peak is a reflection or image of Mount Meru, the cosmic mountain at the center of the universe. The mountain is also a holy place for Buddhists, Jains (a branch of Hinduism) and followers of the ancient Tibetan Bon religion, who consider this unusual mountain"heart of the world", "axis of the earth". The top of the mountain remains unconquered, although in last years Chinese government began building a road to the sacred pilgrimage route known as the kora. Just as the Earth makes a circle around the luminary that gives it life, so Tibetan pilgrims make a circuit around sacred mountain Kailash. Kora (ritual detour) around Kailash. Most pilgrims and pilgrims get to Kailash precisely for the purpose of making a kora. Before starting the tour, make a wish.

Israeli national trail, Israel

Best choice for: Long-distance hikers interested in ancient and modern history. Length: 940 km
The famous route, opened in 1995, provides an opportunity to see the sublime beauty of the Middle East's wildlife and the daily life of modern Israelis, visit biblical sites and the cities of Tel Aviv and Jerusalem. The route allows tourists to see everything that is of great value to Jews and Christians. He walks through the area Sharon descending to the lake Kinneret, runs parallel to the biblical Jordan River and gets to the Khatsbani stream in the very north of the country. The trail consists of 12 small pieces, each of which is a self-sufficient route. As a one-day trek, you can take a five-kilometer climb up the mountain Tavor (Favor), To Basilica of the Transfiguration overlooking the Jezreel Valley ridge Carmel, Mount Hermon, walks in the Galilee and the Golan Heights. The biggest blessing here comes in the form of "path angels" - volunteers who are ready to lend a helping hand and offer free accommodation and food.

Cinque Terre (Five Lands), Sentiero Azzurro, Italy

Best choice for: families; seekers of romance; lovers of Europe; older tourists.Length: 12 km. Travel time is 3-4 hours.
Start / Finish: Riomaggiore(Riomaggiore) Monterosso(Monterosso al Mare). Both points are accessible from regular rail links. No map needed, just follow coastline . The Sentiero Azzurro (Cote d'Azur) strings five towns like beads on a string: Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare. Take a bottle of water with you sunscreen, good appetite and a hat.

Yoshida Trail, Mount Fuji, Japan

Best choice for: Those who want to take part in what is a cultural tradition in Japan. Distance: There are several trails to Mount Fuji, but the most popular is the Yoshida trail is about 13 km long.
Many hikers would put Mount Fuji on their list of worst climbing routes because of the crowds that can be found here. 3776-meter volcano - the highest point in Japan, one of the most visited places in the world, more than 300.000 tourists try to reach the summit every year. Whatever it was, it will be an unforgettable ascent. You can stop for a bite to eat or sit by the fire at the huts along the way, and if you want to watch the sunrise from the top, you'll likely be doing so with over a thousand new friends. Crazy experience? Of course not. But this can only be done once in a lifetime. Just remember what the Japanese say: "A wise man climbs Mount Fuji once in his life, only a fool climbs it twice." Tip: You won't avoid the crowds, but there will certainly be fewer people ahead of you on the trail if you take a less frequented route to the summit, such as the Gotemba trail, which is about 16 km long and has a vertical drop of 1,400 meters.

dragon mountains, South Africa/ Lesotho, Drakensber Park

This is a big, long backcountry route without a real trail that requires outdoor skills and some familiarity with African travel. Many people travel here with guides. Length: round trip 64 km, from Mont-Aux-Sources to Cathedral Peak. The Dragon Mountains are a mountain system located in South Africa, Lesotho and Swaziland. The highest point - Mount Thabana-Ntlenyana (3482 m) in Lesotho. The Zulus (Zulu tribe) call them "Ukashlamba", which means "ridge of peaks". Dizzying slopes of volcanic basalt rise above ancient sedimentary rocks. The Dragon Mountains is the highest mountain range in South Africa, which is crowned with an amphitheater - a stone wall a kilometer high and 5 kilometers long. This mountain range forms natural boundaries between South Africa and Lesotho.

Laugavegur route (Fimmvurduhauls pass), Iceland

Best choice for: volcanologists and hikers who want to admire wild beauties Iceland during an overnight stay in huts. Length: round trip 80 kilometers. The opportunity to see what is left of the recent volcanic eruption is not the only thing that attracts tourists to these places. A quarter of Iceland's population says they believe in elves and other mythical creatures, and if you walk through the hardened lava fields and mountains that you will meet along this route, you will probably begin to believe in them too. These intricate landscapes ice caps two glaciers and an extended North Atlantic on the horizon. The road goes deep into Thorsmork, a park where you can find rare trees for these places. The final leg of the path leads to the village of Skogar and the gorge, where you can observe a cascade of waterfalls, including one of the largest and beautiful waterfalls in Iceland Skogafoss. Shortened route: You can drive only 20-25 kilometers along the Fimmvürduhauls pass, cross the Thorsmörk park and reach the Skogafoss waterfall. This will take one day.

Way of Saint James (El Camino de Santiago), Spain

Best choice for: pilgrims and tourists, lovers of long walks in Europe. Length: 760 kilometers. The main pilgrimage road, the Way of St. James leads to the cathedral in the city of Santiago de Compostela in northern Spain, where, according to legend, the greatest relic of Spain is located, Relics of the Apostle James, the heavenly patron of the country. During the Roman Empire and in the Middle Ages, it was a trade route. Due to its popularity and branching, the route had a great influence on the dissemination of cultural achievements in the Middle Ages. This route is still popular today and is considered one of the best hiking trails in Europe. Along the way, you can stop in small towns, listen to the stories of pilgrims, enjoy a glass of local wine. If you're walking at night, don't forget to look up at the sky: the path of St. James runs parallel to the Milky Way. According to legend, the saint inscribed it in the sky to show Charlemagne the way to the Saracens. Saint James began to be considered the patron saint of travelers. The emblem of this saint is the image shells. Shells were a distinctive sign of the pilgrims who entered the Way of St. James, sewn, for example, on clothes. Shell images decorate the buildings and the road along the entire route.

Bigfoot Trail, Bhutan

Best choice for: the most experienced thrill-seekers. Distance: over 320 kilometers, as a rule, this is a 25-day trip. You must travel with Bhutan tour guides. The Bigfoot Path is one of the hardest long trails on the planet. Although it covers a little over 320 km, most of the route lies above the most high points the continental United States, crossing 11 passes over 4900 m and climbing the Rinchen Zoe La pass (5300 m). The track passes through places like Laya, Layap Indigenous House, and Village Tanza at an altitude of 4200 meters, where the guides change horses for yaks to pass even more difficult terrain ahead. Here, above the clouds, 7000-meter giants such as Zogophu Gamp and Masang Gang rise. Trek around the soaring Jomolhari peak(7350m) is a challenging week-long adventure in the high Himalayas. The Dragon Trail takes five days and crosses the highlands between the city of Paro, where international Airport country, and the capital Thimphu, which is famous for the lack of traffic lights. The government of Bhutan has introduced a minimum rate of $250 per day per stay foreign tourists in Bhutan. While this price includes accommodation, prepare to spend at least $8,000 on the Bigfoot trail. There is no budget options and cannot travel alone.

Bibbulmoon Trail, Australia

Best choice for: Just about everyone, from families to brisk walkers looking for an adventure to see the Australian Southwest. Length: 965 km from Calamunda to Albany in Perth on the south coast. The route is divided into 58 parts. There are 49 hideouts along the trail for real hikers. The Bibbulmun Trail, named after the indigenous peoples of the area, will allow you to observe the wonders of Australia's endemic flora and fauna. Starting in Kalamunda, 45 minutes east of Perth, the trail passes through eucalyptus forests where snakes abound. Along the way, you can also see many rare animals, poisonous cane toads. This route has another social aspect that makes it truly Australian. in campsites, you can meet tourists from all over the world and Australians who travel for weeks to test themselves and get to know the unique places they live in.

Copper Canyon, Mexico

Best choice for: those who want to see wildlife and local culture. Length: about 65 kilometers with a vertical height difference of 6 thousand meters.
Copper Canyon, about 1500 meters deep, is one of the best places for hiking, especially thanks to thermal springs at its bottom, an ideal opportunity to recuperate during long hikes. The path through the canyon and back lies in places where rivers meet on the way, and requires the skills of crossing such obstacles. There are also steep detours where ropes are needed. The Tarahumara inhabited the canyons long before the conquistadors and continue to live there according to ancient tradition.

The Undiscovered World also organizes trekking through the Copper Canyon in Mexico.

Western Highland (West Highland), Scotland

Best choice for: Anyone who is in decent shape and wants to feel the taste of remote mountain areas. Length: 155 kilometers from Milngavie to Fort William.
The trail goes through the Scottish Highlands, which helped the Scottish highlanders in antiquity to stop the onslaught of the Romans and maintain their independence throughout history. At times, the route may seem very long and windy, but along the way you can admire the rocky peaks and the fabulous beauty of the Glencoe Gorge, climb the Devil's Staircase Pass (ascent 700 meters above sea level and descend) and pass by the calm Loch Lomond.

Great Himalayan Way, Nepal

Best choice for: epic adventurers. Length: The Nepalese part of the route spans 1,700 kilometers in the high Himalayas and is divided into ten relatively easy-to-travel sections. With good weather, the entire journey can be covered in 4-6 months if everything goes according to plan. Although the concept of the Great Himalayan Way (GHT) is new, the hiking route has been known for a long time. In fact, the VGP is not a track, but a vision that connects the alpine way through the Himalayas - through India, Pakistan, Tibet, Nepal, Bhutan and - along existing footpaths and ancient trade and pilgrimage routes. Remaining just a concept in other countries, in Nepal the VGP has been made a reality: the 1600 km adventure route includes difficult trails near many of Nepal's 8000 m peaks, including Everest, Makalu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Annapurna and Kanchenjunga . Along the way, the trail passes through famous peaks and passes, including a trio of passes. Sherpani (6146 m), West Kol (6148) and Amfu Labst (5845) between Everest and Makalu

"Unknown World" also organizes on various routes

Shipwreck Bay, Olympic Peninsula, Washington, USA

Best choice for: Almost any traveler. It's an easy walk to good weather and the perfect family adventure. The route goes mainly along the coast Pacific Ocean . Length: 3 2 kilometers from the beach of Rialto to the forestry on Lake Ozette. The place is not in vain dubbed "Shipwreck Bay". If you go up from Rialto Beach, you will pass the Norwegian memorial, erected in honor of 18 young people who died and were buried here in 1903 in the wreck of the sailing ship Prince Arthur, and the Chilean memorial, the burial place of dozens of other sailors who died in 1920- m as a result of the wreck of the ship WJ Pirrie. But not everything in this route is sad. The beaches, which are part of the Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary, are full of life and change. Spend a few days here and you'll feel like you've traveled back in time before America knew Europeans. There are many raccoons along the coast. It is better to hang products at night higher.

Hayduke Trail, Utah and Arizona, USA

Best choice: for those who like to travel alone in the wild, lovers of red rocks. Length: over 1300 kilometers, the path is divided into 14 sections. The trail runs through six national parks Colorado Plateau: Arches, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef, Bryce Canyon, Grand Canyon and Zion. She climbs to a height of about 3480 meters on Mount Ellen near Capitol Reef, and then descends to the bottom of the Grand Canyon to a height of 550 meters.
If you can only get through one of them, choose the second one, covering 75 kilometers along the Colorado River and the Needles area of ​​the Canyonlands National Park. The trail crosses numerous highways and dirt roads, providing an opportunity to stock up on food and water.

"Unknown World" organizes

Benton McKay Trail, Georgia, Tennessee, North Carolina, USA

Best for: Long-distance hikers looking to replicate the founder's experience Appalachian trail. Length: 480 kilometers
The lonely, steep, sometimes foggy route starts at Springer Mountain in Georgia and crosses the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. On the way there are eight protected areas, as the embodiment of the desire of its founder to preserve ecosystems without human intervention. This is a route for creative tourists. Because starts and ends at the Appalachian Trail and crosses it before entering the national park Great Smoky Mountains, forming a big eight, this allows tourists to take different routes.

International Appalachian Trail, USA, Canada, Greenland, Scotland, Spain, Morocco

Best choice for: Those travelers with experience of the Appalachian Trail who are looking for new adventures with a love of geology. Length: The current route is approximately 3,000 kilometers from the end of the Appalachian Trail in Maine to where the North American Trail ends at Crown Head, Newfoundland. Appalachian Trail– an attempt to link the ancient mountain range, which crossed part of Pangea over 200 million years ago before splitting into several mountain ranges. What's left of these peaks in North America, has become the famous Appalachian Mountains of the United States, but few of those who have climbed the American Appalachian Trail will want to recognize that the mountains continue in Canada and will not stop there. The remains of those mountains stretched from Labrador to Greenland and beyond European continent- Scotland, France, Spain, and even through Gibraltar to Morocco. MAT can be symbol of the globalism of the new millennium

Trek Santa Cruz, Cordillera Blanca, Peru

Best choice for: South American travelers and those interested in inca experience; lovers of high-altitude hiking trails other than the Himalayas. Length: over 48 km. While the Himalayas are the main focus when it comes to high-altitude hiking, the Cordillera Blanca in Peru offers seclusion with big mountains with much less hassle compared to routes in Asia. It is also a less touristy alternative for those on their way to Machu Picchu on the Road of the Incas.

Laugavegur route, Iceland

Suitable for: volcanologists and hikers who want to admire the wild beauty of Iceland.
Distance: about 80 kilometers. One of the most popular hiking tourist routes in Iceland was closed when the Eyjafjallajökull volcano erupted in the spring of 2010, blocking all air traffic over the Atlantic and Europe. A quarter of Iceland's population claims to believe in elves and other fairy tale characters, and if you walk through the hardened lava fields and see the mountains that you meet on this route, you will probably begin to believe in them too. These intricate landscapes with the ice caps of two glaciers and the stretching North Atlantic on the horizon will blow your mind. The road goes deep into Tormerk, a park where you can find very few trees, which are very rare in these places. Along the way, you can find well-equipped huts and many local residents. The final stretch of the path leads to the village of Skogar and the gorge, where you can see one waterfall after another, including the stunning giant Skogafoss waterfall, 60 meters high. If the volcano does erupt, then this route will be closed again or changed, so it's worth going to Iceland before it's too late.